WangerFlange Vs Bevelled frame for dome building
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- Опубліковано 4 чер 2020
- 3 days to upload this!!
That's how bad my internet is... Anyway
This video is all about the difference between using WangerFlanges or beveled frame to build a dome. Each has their advantages and disadvantages so hopefully this video my help you decide which is best for your project.
Beveled frame plans available from www.geo-dome.co.uk
WangerFlanges available from www.wangerflange.com - Навчання та стиль
Thanks for not talking so much. It was nice to see somebody actually working more than they like the sound of themselves talking!
Bravo!
👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
thank you
I'm a huge fan of your work. My biggest issue with the wanger flange dome has been how to put a tight polly cover on it. Been waiting for an answer... never got it - so I SOLVED IT. I JUST covered a conduit dome (Idea for conduit dome came from you) with polly and got it tight and perfect in high winds. HOW - I used double inflated polly. Yes there's the odd bulge but inflated it actually doesn't matter. I made a video on it - it's on my channel. Love to hear your thoughts, but using double inflated polly allows for a perfect dome cover with no breaks in the polly using a small air blower (I harvested mine from an old xmas blow up orpiment from my yard). Thank you Paul for your awesome dome videos and I hope this helps in the covering questions you've been getting.
Simple Tek hey! I’m subscribed and Bell to your UA-cam channel and I saw that covering video you made with the ‘1 sheet and blower.’ (2 sheets actually.) Thank you for this reminder! Excellent work on you and Paul. Thanks guys!!!
Its better than most of poly covered conduit dome but its not what i`d call tight ;)
@@tadeospencer1683 you realize cybercrime is a criminal offence right? You can goto jail for that
OMG, I build several V2 silo domes for 550 pounds in the bevel style! But I have total respect for being honest about the costs. That´s what gives You a lot of sympathy .
Thank you
A piece of hard plastic circles 🔵🔴built over the Wanger Flange connection points to make a smooth transition to the shrink plastic .
Great video a Wagnerflange method of a flexible hub and the bevelled panelized frame method are both ingenious hybrid methods.
I love how honest this is. Seeing all the drawback laid out makes me want the wangerflanges more.
You like the word "wangerflange" don't you?!! You like to say "I've got a "wangerflange" to unsuspecting, sheltered individuals in bus queues... Don't do it. They'll hurt you and say, "it's your fault", as they are hurting you....
Consider the difference in accuracy between the two methods. Panel angles can be cut to within a degree quite easily when using a jig. A 6 way hub may call for strut angles of 58.28 deg and 63.44 deg but the closest you can get with a 6 way wanger flange hub is 60 deg so only 2 of the 6 struts on that hub will have the correct angle. Errors are cumulative in a dome, no sense advising folks to cut the strut length to within a mm if the hub angle is out by 3.5 degrees.
I've been incorporating fixed hinges into my compound joints for what ever i make. It's more expensive and a little heavier, but I never have to worry about actually measuring setting and cutting numerous odd angles. The jigs are just a clamped stop-block since I'm only ever worried about the length of the struts.
The thing to really take away from this video is that hinge joints in anything solve so much problem for us, the home DIY lego builders.
. . . looking forward to your next video (covering the coverage :-)
hope you liked it!
Great Video. Thanks for making it.
Looking forward to the next one
Thank you
Have you considered using cables to lock the diameter during the construction of Wagner flange method
Wow I found this hella late. Great job!
Those would be perfect for geenhouse frames. Those should be in a bin in the fasteners aisle at every hardware store
Thank you!
5:30 Hey Mr Robinson, how's you brother? At 5:30 in the video timeline that structure looks surprisingly similar to a solar panel setup. Just a thought. OK then, have a great weekend
Paul, the greenhouse at the end of this video uses a dome frame to span an 'open space'. Generally, how far could that concept be expanded upon? Could someone use a dome on walls to span a space in a home? Then, maybe use it to support a conventional roof ? Your thoughts, Please.
it's possible
I have finally gotten the chance to begin a small farmstead and am well beyond broke. I will over the next few years, be able to start building my greenhouses for far northern grown figs and citruses. I intend on finally be able to make some money with me in charge.... I think I will be needing plans for One, 24 foot dia. double skinned Wanger Flange space frame dome, Two 21 footer of the same type and Three 18 footers as well. These will be place with the largest at the Northern point of a Hexagonally arranged domes, which I wish to be able to connect via a straight section between the Domes. The Southern point dome will have the main entrance, with another at the lower "Western" corner that will have a straight section pointing West (House side). How do I go about getting this done? I need your help.
You will minimise your material waste by making them all the same size, i`d just build six 7m (23ft) domes,
Anyone have any info on the design at the 9:50 mark. Trying figure out a roof for a smaller cabin
A bit new to domes. He seems to use the word ‘ frequency ‘ as a unit of measure when discussing domes. What does he mean by frequency ?
it has to do with the amount of triangles in the dome. 2V, 3V, 4V etc
bevelled frame seems better all around ? cheaper, easier to build, easier to install windows. i'm confused as to where the drawbacks are?
I've just started a 3v 6m dome. But the plastic discs / hubs i was trying to use failed. So i started to look for alternatives.
I love the beveled frame, but it seemed too complex and time consuming for me.
The wangerflange looks like a great little widget, but i was shocked at the cost / pricing.
Anyway, in the end I went with a buildwithhubs 3v kit, which I ordered today. So we'll see.
For a dome that size i`d recommend using schedule 80 pvc pipe or aluminium tube (T6-6082) with at least a 3/16" wall thickness. Steel is an option but its harder to cut/drill and tends to rust. The buildwithhubs will be considerably weaker.
@@JohnGuest45 I've come down slightly in size to just over 5m.
And yes, the hubs, being plastic, aren't the strongest option. However, my intention is to make a lightweight garden type structure.
Or perhaps using the frame to do a thin Ferro-cement cover.
why do the wangers at 6:00 look recessed ? ive never seen that look in any of your designs
I think that's an internal space frame supporting the exterior structure
I saw on AvE in which someone sent in these joints for examination and analysis. He did not know what to do with them.
Yes I sent the design to AvE, he made prototypes from 3D files. Cool guy.
@@Geo-Dome Ohhh, okay so you are the inventor?
compare wanger flange vs hubs!!
Nail in the ends of the wood struts?
I bet that plastic ziptie domes are stronger than these with wanger flange.
I immagine if you stumble inside of the dome and touch the wall it will crash.
Good for a chicken dome to cover with a net but not good for serious constructions like the beveled frame is.
Could a 3D printed part be used as a hub mechanism? Thanks for these videos!
. . . if you can print it within good stainless steel material properties - yes, otherwise: NO !. . .
The technology exists to do it - Boeing are using it to 3D print a small number of metal aircraft parts - but I suspect it will be a couple of decades before the technology becomes cheap enough to do it at home. It also requires some work on the structural side, as I understand the 3D printed part is structurally similar to a part that has been cast, which may not be as strong as part that has been manufactured as a strong flat sheet then bent into form. Either way, comparing plastic 3D printing today to mass-produced plastics, it's going to be more expensive to make it yourself than to buy a mass-produced part for a long time after the technology becomes affordable.
More cost effective to mould them from fibre glass or go with metal pressing.
unfair comparison dont you think? heehee.