forge welding a plane iron. - wood working tools
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- Опубліковано 21 тра 2018
- A great deal of my business deals with the forging of wood working tools. Todays task is to weld a steel edge on a plane blade or iron as they are usually called. This will later be fit into a wooden body plane by another craftsman.
Thank you for watching. Black Bear Forge is a small one person shop located in Southern Colorado.
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The following list provides just a few resources to help you find supplies and equipment for blacksmithing.
www.piehtoolco.com/
www.centaurforge.com/
www.blacksmithsdepot.com/
www.blacksmithbolt.com/
www.oldworldanvils.com/
www.nimbaanvils.com/
fontaninianvilandtool.com/
www.abana.org/
www.mcmaster.com
kensironstore.com/
Blacksmithing and related activities can be hazardous. These videos are not a substitute for competent professional instruction. Your safety is your sole responsibility. Always use appropriate safety equipment including eye and ear protection when working in the shop. Follow manufactures safety guidelines for the use of all equipment. In the event something shown in one of these videos seems unsafe, it is up to you to make the appropriate changes to protect yourself.
so much great information presented in this video! Thanks John! You're the Best!!!!
Thank you! A lot of information for forge welding. Nice review. We newbies need more reminding as our heads fill with info. (Or at least I do)
My Grandpa made these by the truck load. He also made Cabinet Scrapers, probably 100 different Plane profiles. I keep that clinker all year and use it to put on my driveway entrance in the winter because the black color melts ice a lot faster and is fantastic traction material.
I did not really understand the levels in the fire, your explanation made it clear thanks. Great video!
Outstanding video, not only forge welding, but also fire management. Thank You!
Once again I get to be the first to thank you for another great post. You continue to teach an old dog new tricks
I've watched many, many forge welding videos, and this is the first one that demystified the process. Oxygen has not been my friend! Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge and experience.
I am glad it helped, you may also want to watch one of my earlier videos on the process. ua-cam.com/video/j814AqiKVvE/v-deo.html
This is a great video because it IS exactly why I got started blacksmithing. Thank you.
Great video! This is one thing Ive searched for in vain, and had many smiths over at the forums tell me its too difficult or not feasible. Your simple, exact, no nonsense approach busts through the misconceptions and fog of mystery in what was once just simple everyday smithing work all around the world! We are entering a grand time, a hand tool renaissance, where more and more people are learning the joys of hand tool woodworking, and the more smiths and tool makers there are learning this trade, the better and cheaper these tools will be available, not only accessible to the well to do hobby workers, the common man may once again afford quality tools made well by smiths who understand the nuances of good, proper wood working tools!
In short, you are doing a grand service to this renaissance, and your videos are just GOLD!!! Thank you for taking the time to compartmentalize this knowledge and present it in a manner which seems encouraging and attainable to others new to the trade!
Yes, exactly. Even without decades of experience we can be able to make tools that are exacty what we need, and that are simply not available to purchase. Or that I can't afford!
I couldn’t agree more. That warm fuzzy feeling one gets when using a well constructed piece of hand tooling is precious.
Japanese have been making planning steels for 500 years. They use iron and a blue or white steel. They have both metals show on the bevel. I own3 of these and they are the best planes I own
Forged my first little flux spoon ,looking foward to using it.I have had a partial success at charcoal making and have about 10 gallons of good charcoal now,lit some up in the forge yesterday,hooray,it works .Working on the addition to the Blacksmith shed/shop this week,forge welding might have to wait till next week ,when i attempt to weld the new froe ,again.I have a good many planes that need some attention too.Thanks.
Great video john, a subject not seen often. Simple and strait forward approach to what was a common task. Thank you for demystifying the forge weld process for the masses. You are a great teacher and inspire us to try harder. Thanks again.
Great video John I am starting my own blacksmithing business I'm 15 now so I'll have plenty of time to get blacksmithing
Take your basic skill seriously now and you will become a much better smith later. Best of luck to you.
Black Bear Forge thanks appreciate the help. If you were here in Ireland anvils are pretty cheap and common. The blue anvil in my profile picture is 51kg and I only paid 70 euro or about 90 ish dollars brand new. I bought it from my school they didn't have any use for it. Thanks again
Very informative video. Learned a lot.
Nice video,I very appreciated your explanation on where to place your material to weld in your fire.also the explanation of oxidation an scaling of material an what you should not do when u r trying to weld.very helpful for me. Thank you very much
Some of these things are not as clear on video as I might hope. So I am glad it is helping.
Excellent detailed explanation of the techniques and rationales. You're a natural teacher!
Great video - you can bet I'll be forging a few of those - I have a collection of vintage cast iron planes a couple of which date back to the late 1880s. I recently finished forge welding a "Damascus" billet and plan on using some of that for chisels and planes because I love woodworking as well as blacksmithing. Cheers!
- Jens
I've been watching your videos for quite awhile and just put together that I bought a leaf patterned holdfast from you a year and a half or so ago. I'm on Massachusetts but someone on a Facebook woodworkers forum raved about your work so I figured I'd check it out. Anyway, I love the holdfast and really enjoy your videos. Keep em coming.
Thatas great, glad you like both the holdfasts and the videos.
This Video Lesson Was So Informative! From Start To Finish Very Educational! 🐻🔥
Really an excellent review. When I try to draw something out that long and wide my material ends up looking like a hunk of lasagna rather than your nice flat stock but I am working on it!!
Lasagna---HA! I know exactly what you mean. John does make it look easy.
16K and growing...Good video!
Beautiful to see how you subtly and gently apply the power hammer. Like it has become an extension of your limbs.
I have my great grandfathers plane that looks exactly like that! he was a blacksmith too!
Great video John. Very well explained
Thanks! I'm looking at making some wooden planes and this was very helpful.
Really enjoyed this plane iron project as I am a joiner first and want to make 1 for an old wood plane but also for a mum 4 Stanley plane which will most likely be 01 steel stock removal. Would appreciate if you showed the final sharp piece.
Very enjoyable video!! I love to find old wooden planes and restore them. I've typically bought new irons, but you've inspired me to try forging one.
Excellent, well explained and informative. Another great video.
Great video. I'm in the process of doing the same thing with timber framing chisels. Making the body out of mild steel and forge welding a high carbon steel bit onto it.
That would be a good video one of these days
thanks once again, John. forge welding.. yes. that's something i have not yet tried. it somehow seems way more difficult than it probably is! but many things are like that. and i do have an ancient wooden body plane that I've never used..
The longer you put off learning to weld, the more difficult and mysterious it seems to become. Once you learn the basics though, it can open many doors.
Black Bear Forge that makes sense.. again, many things are like that! i have now all the steel plate i need to fabricate my firepot/air inlet and forge table, which I'm sure will make it easier (my firepot ain't deep enough; my air inlet is too narrow). I'm planning on cutting the firepot out in one piece, and fullering it for all the bends, btw: a la Stuart and the adjustable workstand. that's the plan anyway! cheers
I've been wanting to forge weld ever since I've seen Clint Eastwood do it in Escape from Alcatraz.
Very Good video!
Great videos..thank you
Again I am well please Thanks John.
great video. love the woodworking tool stuff. thanks for the content
John you were pretty impressive with that 4 1/2 lb. hammer and the work, as always looked very nice.
Excellent video. I've made one wooden bodied single iron jointer plane much like the one you showed at the beginning of the video, but I did not make the iron. I'm really looking forward to being able to do that. I've missed viewing for a couple weeks due to a family medical situation, and it's so nice to get a minute to see what's going on but also nice that the videos will be here later when I have time.
Nice John, very interesting.
I have a Stanley #5 and #6. Unfortunately both are missing the blades. Now I know what to do to make my own blades for them. Thank you very much.
Making blades for the 5 & 6 will be an ambitious project. They will have very tight tolerances to fit and function properly. The old wooden body planes were a bit more forgiving. I am sure it can be done though.
If you have a ferrocium rod to strike against the high carbon steel you will get a good spark versus the regular steel.
Very nice. I have a welding class coming up here next week and I hope to get better at it. Right now my welding in the forge is a lot like golf. Fail, fail, fail, good weld. or Shank, slice, hook good shot. Just enough success to keep you coming back.
Soon you'll be playing in the masters.
Thanks for the plane weld vid. Almost a bit like knife making. But it is a blade after all. Hope that 4lb hammer doesn't make your elbow hurt. I have a 1 handed 6lb hammer for a few heavy strikes. But I rarely use it and only for a very short time or I'll hurt for weeks. Think I need to knock a pound off that hammer. Great weld education. Thanks again.
Anything over 3 pounds gets used only in short spells
Informative.
Another exceptionally informative video, thank you, John. All of the fire management tips are very helful. Why is the mild steel even needed? Wouldn't a piece of 1075 been able to perform just as well all by itself? I don't understand. A plane iron doesn't really have to withstand much if any torquing or flexing or shock does it?
From a modern perspective there is no need for the lamented blade. Most are made of single piece A2 or O1. But since the wooden plane is historically inspired, the lamented blade is more accurate for the design. There are some benefits to the two piece design, less tool steel means it the blade costs less in materials, The softer mild steel is easier to grind or hone with only the actual cutting edge being hard steel, the hardened steel is also well supported by tougher mild steel which helps prevent chips in the blade.
Love your work sir, I am learning so much from you. I was just wondering if that ruler you were using is just a cut rafter square? I really like that idea! Thanks!
It is a modified square, but a bit smaller than a rafter square. ua-cam.com/video/3_ZqaJ93dpc/v-deo.html
I enjoyed the video. I also seen you had two wire brushes, one with a handle the other without the handle. Is their and other difference in the brushes like wire size ? Thank you for your time and videos.
There is no great difference in the two brushes. The one without the handle has longer bristles which can get down into hollow spots better, but that wasn't really an issue on this project.
I have learned so much from you.
Rookie question, I’ve seen you weld like this a few times. When the harder steel is laid directly over the softer steel, it appears like they are sandwiched at the forward edge. Wouldn’t this make that sharpening edge half hard steel and half mild steel?
It all depends on where the edge is in relation to the blade. A centered edge such as a knife or conventional axe needs the steel centered in a cleft. For a one sided edge such as a chisel or hewing axe the steel needs to be laid on one side.
@@BlackBearForge thanks for the reply, that makes sense. I finished the video and you explained it well, figured my question was too late to recant :/ thanks again!
You mentioned that you use bituminous coal. Can you cover using anthracite coal that farriers around here seem to use?
I'm afraid I have no experience with anthracite.
Black Bear Forge My experience is with central heating in Chicago. More BTU per ton. Supposed hotter fire. When I finish my coal forge, I'll let you know.
Hey John great video as always, I've asked this question before, how do you choose how large of a forge that you need? Personally I do like big, but I understand that bigger is not always better what's your opinion
For a coal forge I would stick with the standard size fire pot sold at the larger blacksmithing suppliers. That will allow you to build a fire to suit the work at hand. The hearth surrounding the pot is just a place to stage coal and tools for the work at hand. For propane, it is really depends on the work you are doing. Ideally you would have a couple of different sizes to suit the work being done.
Could one save time filing or grinding if they forged the bevel in the blade, or does it not matter/is not feasible?
So I'm not a smith, yet. I hope to get a forge set up next spring. But one of the things I want to make are plane irons. I imagine, for ease, that I'll make my first ones out of a bar of tool steel rather than trying to forge weld. But, I'm going to have a very basic set up. No grinders, just files. With that in mind, I'd like to save as much filing time as possible. But is it worth it? Is the 20° angle too difficult to get right at the anvil? Even if it is possible, would I actually save time compared to filing?
To a small degree, but leaving the edge thick can help reduce warpage.
Can you forge weld in a lump charcoal fire? Not sure i've ever heard of anyone doing it that way.
Yes you can. It takes a fair amount of charcoal, but I have done it several times. It was the common fuel when early smiths first figured out forge welding.
Will any washing powder work in forge welding? Can you forge without flux? Mark. I enjoyed your show. I would like to try but it's hard to get the temperature high enough mostly. Just got a propane forge. I would like to do more forging. But I live in Thailand and it's so hot here. And I sometimes forgot things are hot. So end up burning myself. DHO. Mark
It has nothing to do with washing powder. For some reason Borax is traditionally used in laundry applications, so there is the connection, but you can't turn that around. You can use silicone sand as a flux, and you can actually use scale. The idea is to get an agent that melts before your steel is at welding temperature, sticks to metal and runs into the transition zones by itself. It also should "catch" any oxygen, but mostly the surfaces should be just covered and kept off the oxygen. If you can maintain a fire that eliminates all oxygen and you rarely take your work out of it, you might get away forge welding without any flux. But why? I'd rather use sand than nothing.
Thomas's comment pretty well covers it.
26:30 A-HA! It's a clinkerrrr!
ua-cam.com/video/fjNqLOorulI/v-deo.html
nice shop but look slike a fire hazard in there
I put on the captions and mute