Coming from a floor layer here, solid installation! I love that you’re using premium products that a professional like myself would recommend. A trick of the trade to make your fills go by much faster is to place a plank on top of the last row you laid (make sure it doesn’t move once in place), taking another plank and butting it against the wall on top of the previously mentioned plank. Once in place you may take your knife along the edge of the top plank scoring and snapping the bottom plank; perfect fit every time! To save more time I would also recommend using a knife opposed to your laminate cutter for end fills as well! Simply use the same strategy you use to mark it with a pencil but instead eyeball a straight cut from there (no square needed as the baseboards should cover any short cuts).
I was thinking about trying to save some money and install a glue-down myself but my god, this looks like a horrific amount of work. I'm gonna hire someone like you to do it. Thanks for the excellent video! I think this saved me a lot of issues.
It takes a good amount of time lol I’m installing this at a house right now it’s not horrible once you get the hang of it but yeah if u don’t know ur better off hiring someone lol you never know what issues might pop up
Great tips!! I made my husband and myself watch this whole video lol and I must say your camera angles are on point 👏👏 and it's much appreciated too, I could see everything and exactly how I need to approach this project. I hope it goes as well and easy as you made it look. Thank you 👍
Nice Brent! Putting that threshold piece as a single plank is a little harder but a much better look. Small details make all the difference, imo! thanks!
Youre right, HVAC guys never care. Haha. My good buddy is an HVAC contractor. I'm a handyman, and I get many work references from him. Bless his heart, but hes so sloppy. I get called in to follow and work along with him to make things pretty. My advice to any other handy men and women is connect with some other tradesmen like an electrician or HVAC guy. Thanks for the vid. Needed a refresher for my brain.
I think if a few of the mechanical guys had to patch and paint some of the drywall holes they left behind they would be a bit more careful! They aren't all bad, they get paid to do what they do and we get paid to fix it lol
@@MyDIYAdventures another great thing about glue down is if you get some damage you can just remove the bad pieces with a heat gun and reinstall. Pretty tough with click to do that
Install wise I prefer the planks you just slide together jobs go much quicker when it’s not a glue down job ripping up old glue can be a pain lol but hey money’s money lol customer can order whatever they want
@@BrentDarlington thanks, makes sense yeah. Also I guess if you wanted to change the floor later on the subfloor would be ruined by the glue and would also need replacing.
Instead of using your floor leveler where you have to mix it with water can I use the premix one DAP flexible floor patch & leveler for plywood & concrete ?
We’re having glue down installed end of this month and had no idea what the process would be or what to expect. Safe to say, we will be getting a hotel room. Thanks for this super informative video. Saved us a huge headache.
You mean, like any other fat person, you couldn't do it yourself after watching this video (yeas, I was paralyzed and I just did my own floor with this video).
true statement on triangle, however with the room squared you can adjust the fill piece to be less noticeable . just coming off the longest wall can --if not square can make the pattern seem on a slight angle .1/4 inch no problem--1 inch trouble . usually most walls are 1/4 to 1/2 out .
Well done Brent, nice job! There's not much videos on LVT / OSB out there. Thanks for yours! Not sure if you were lucky to fit the plywood boards to be level with the existing floor. If you can't afford to lift the floor with plywood then special putty is the way. Sand down OSBs, seal the drops and joints with the special putty (like SCHONOX ZZ or similar), sand down again and you're good.
3x4x5 provides that a room out of square does not present a small triangle piece down one or more walls , extremely important when ceramic tile is involved .
Can you explain a bit more? If the room is out, you will get the "triangle" effect no matter what you do. Centering just splits the difference and hopefully will be less noticeable. I can't rebuild the house to install the floor. The framers are the ones who need to use 3x4x5.
my mom in law has loads of that 70's vinyl sheeting flooring in her house... can one glue this directly over that? I only have experience with the floating type I;m installing in my rental unit now.
If its not padded and is held down tight, apparently you can if the glue says it will stick. I usually rip it out to be safe but you can put a new layer of underlayment ply over the old floor first. Or put click down over it.
@@BrentDarlington yeah the surface still looks flat and good just the prints are so out of date and not up to modern stuff, will probably fill a few low spots. .
Hi, how do you think can I put my new luxury viny floor on my old laminate floor?(I don't have any gaps on it I just don't like the colour and the quality as well) I'm trying to find a way how I can put on a new floor without taking off an old one. What do you think?
It is not that hard to rip out but if it is in good condition their may be a glue that would stick. You can also put a layer of plywood on top of the old stuff. The floor manufacturer will have a glue they recomend and the glue manufacturer will have a substrate they recommend.
Excellent video! Two questions: -What grit sandpaper did you use in your belt sander? -What size trowel did you use for the adhesive? Sorry if I missed it, my ears aren't the best. God bless!!
80 or 100 grit is usually what i use. If you go heavy wirh the patch maybe do a 60. The adhesive will have recommended trowel sizes. Sometimes you can use a roller, some people find that easier.
Great video my man ! I've done this job for 30 years and I have to say , it's as best as a professional can get ...however, I'm just curious about the 'platinum under layment' Here in Australia it's 5mm hardboard.
Do you have to let the glue dry a bit before putting the laminate down? I tried to do it that way and it didn’t stick very good but when I put the laminate down right after spreading the glue instead it stuck really good.
@@BrentDarlington so do you think it would work to install it wet? The glue says permanent installation open time up to 25 minutes I’m not sure what that means I’ve never done flooring before and lastly dose it matter how you spread the glue? Thanks
I spread the glue and then pull down top to bottom so all the glue lines go in the same direction then I put the laminate down and press on it a bit. It seemed to work when I did that but I’m not sure it that’s how I’m supposed to do it
I realize it is not recommended however, have you ever seen glue down LVP/LVT installed over OSB (a good OSB) and seen it after the job was done? Is it possible it comes out great if the OSB is in great shape?
So when the time comes to replace glue down lvp with new lvp what is the process? Do you need to remove the pressure sensitive glue from the underlay or can it be reused?
I have such bad gaps in my LVP. I glued it down with the right adhesive, used underlayment over the OSB, expansion gaps on the ends, etc.. Still tons of gaps. For the life of me, I cannot figure out why. Any thoughts?
@@BrentDarlington The floor is flat; it's new construction. No offense, but I think I'm capable of laying planks flush against each other. They are separating 24 hrs after installation, despite being tight when I install them.
@BrentDarlington I've seen this issue with glue down lvp..especially where you may have different floor temperatures from sun coming shining through a window.. vinyl expands and contracts...more from end to end than side to side
I’m getting ready to install mannington glue down flooring over SurePly underlayment. The underlayment video says they prefer their underlayment without feather finish. I noticed you did this step. Is this always required?
Great vid 👍 I’m wanting to install luxury vinyl planks upstairs in my home. The sub flooring is thick and in good shape(newer home) do I need to install the extra layer of plywood to the floor. If so, why? Thx
If there are dips or imperfections in the osb subfloor, wouldn't that transfer up through the underlayment you installed over it? I guess I'm wondering why the lvp couldn't just be done over the subfloor?
I am a disabled veteran (I say this because I am on a fixed budget) that is doing a remodel. I had to repair the subfloor and I would like I to do it the correct way you showed, however I am not going to be able to afford the present high cost of plywood. Would I be able to belt sand any points that are uneven and fill the gapes and sand (as you showed), glue and lay the floor. I have seen lots of statements by you that the underlayment is highly recommended, if not necessary, for a level surface but as stated 1/4" plywood for a house project is going to be out of my price range. Could I possibly use 1/8" wall paneling (cheaper) in order to get the larger area flat surface? What could happen to the floor if I proceed to do this.
If you go with a click style vinyl plank you won't need the plywood, nails and glue. You may need an underpad depending on the flooring but is usually the cheaper way to go. Usually more color and price options with click too.
Brent is more of a pro then I am but I am going through the same thing. I have the sheet linoleum on my kitchen floor and am consulting people to lay down an lvp glue down for me. Everyone has so far said it'll stick to the linoleum. It has to be essentially flat and free on any bumps lumps etc etc etc. So I'm hoping for good results.
That's a pressure-sensitive adhesive - you really should use a paint roller on it after application to prevent "grin through" from the dried adhesive. Also, straight cuts across a plank are much quicker using a straightedge & Stanley knife - score & break. Otherwise, excellent video
@@BrentDarlington grin through is when you can see the lines left by the notched trowel showing through your tiles. Whole idea of the notched trowel is that it allows you to apply the correct amount of adhesive per square foot, rolling with a paint roller that's pre-wetted with adhesive leaves a smoother finish and still enough adhesive.
I'm interested in knowing more about the whole rolling over after application with the trowel. Do you do it once the glue is dry or as you are applying?
@@TheJosemarenco roll while the adhesive is still wet so that the lines left by the notched trowel are removed, then allow the adhesive to become almost dry before installing the tiles. This will allow a good adhesive transfer and also a little movement as you lay the tiles,rather than an instant immovable grab.
Depends on what the manufacturer recommends. Click vinyl usually doesn't need plywood unless the subfloor is a bit of a mess. You also don't need it on concrete floors.
Great video, are there any reasons why you prefer the glued vinyl planks vs the click together version? And yo, we gotta talk about these camera angles. These are the best. Like, exactly what I need to see and understand. Especially for newbies like myself. Thanks!
Thanks! Why I like glue down: don't need to leave any expansion gaps, easier to replace any damaged pieces, don't get hollow areas like floating floors, can go under cabinets but more prep work, less material options, more expensive
Is there an underlayment that you recommend to make a gluedown floor (3mm) more comfortable to walk on, especially over a first floor concrete slab on grade. I love the idea of a gluedown floor but am concerned about how comfort when its laid over a slab on a first floor or even noise issues on plywood on a second floor. Is there any way to add an underlayment besides the one you use?
We just had over 10,000 sg ft installed in a commercial setting and it has for sure made me a believer. Wasn’t a fan of the flimsiness of it until I slid a 400 lb vault across it with no issue whatsoever! No scratching or gouging!
@@justinryan212 yea, apparently the vinyl has a lot more durability. I've seen a few videos doing tests on the different types of flooring planks, and the Vinyl takes the win each time
Do you have a link or description of the underlayment you used? If I was tearing off an old floor down to the old 1x6 tongue and groove would you recommend using usb over the top then the underlayment? Or just go with a thicker sanded plywood? Thanks! Video is super helpful
It is a 1/4" plywood underlayment made for vinyl flooring. It is usually in 4' x 4' panels at big box stores and may or may not have the "X"s on them for the nail location. If no Xs just go every 2" around the edges and 4" in the middle. If the tongue and grove is in OK shape, maybe just screw it down to the joists since it would just be nailed. I would go with a thicker sanded one side over the osb and 1/4" if you think it needs it.
@@marinireyes you need good 1 side sanded plywood. You want a smooth surface for the glue. Humps and bumps can transfer through the floor. Thats why you patch and sand the joints.
I have seen people lay this tile as wood grained floor tile is laid (with space between the tiles and adhesive used instead of grout) Do you have any recommendations regarding this? Seems like a hell of a lot more time and work for this to be correct.
I've never seen that. They have grout for vinyl but usually used for luxury vinyl tile, not planks. I would follow the manufacturers instructions as close as possible.
Great Job..Looks Awesome! Do you absolutely need to go over 3/4 plywood (not OSB) with another sheet of plywood like your u did here, If the 3/4 plywood is smooth and level?
@@BrentDarlington I disagree. Make sure plywood gaps (if any) are filled with a good filler like ardex feather fill and add appropriate screws to edges and imo you don't.
If the tile is in good condition, yes. Check what the adhesive manufacturer recommends for prep. You will need to clean the tile very well and fill in all the grout lines.
You don't need the plywood over tile. You should be able to patch the grout lines and go right over top of the tile. You may want to prime the tiles fist with something like "Mapei Eco Prime Grip" but see what the glue and patch manufacturers recommends.
I used a circular saw to cut the plywood, a narrow crown stapler attached to a compressor to attach the plywood, a drywall knife to spread the patch, a notched trowel to spread the glue, a square, a knife, a tape measure, a guillotine to cut the vinyl, knee pads, safety glasses...I think that's it. There are some links in the description for the tools, thanks for watching!
It's quarter 1/4" plywood underlayment made for vinyl floors. You can get it at flooring stores or big box stores. They may only come in 4x4 sheets, I used 4x8 sheets
It would probably be fine but I would check with the flooring and glue manufacturer. It will also depend on what condition the hardwood is in. Best bet would be to put down the underlayment.
Did you start at the door to avoid having a smaller piece (door frame width) right in the door opening? I would have probably start in the middle like you mentioned with a chalk line, but wondering if this would have been considered a "bad looking job" with that small sliver at the door. Thanks and great video!
Since I had already finished the hallway I wanted a continuation from there. You don't want to center each room on it's own and have cut pieces at the doors. Too hard to get a clean seem and don't want to have transition strips. Looks professional when it is continuous.
@@BrentDarlington Oh yeah totally forgot about the clean seam. Hard to have a 100% straight & clean rip cut, even with a track saw! One last question: Do you have any tip to lay your first row straight since you're not next to the wall? I was thinking of doing a dry fit before glue and snap a line with a chalk line. Would that help?
@@mathieuallaire5436 I usually lay a couple rows together and keep all the gaps tight. That will also get you an area to walk. Marking a width or 2 out and doing a chalk line works well too. Probably best to do both.
is this loose lay or glue down? did I miss you using glue? what product are you using... Karndean? so many unanswered questions. I've watched dozens of LVP videos and never seen anyone use OSB... where are you located that you need that?
The OSB is the sub-floor that the builder used, I'm outside of Toronto and it and plywood are common here for newer homes. I put down a 1/4" plywood underlayment over the OSB sub-floor to glue the floor down to. If it was a plywood sub-floor, you would still need the underlayment. OSB and regular plywood is too porous and rough for this type of floor, you need the sanded plywood. You must have missed the gluing, it is glued. This is "glue-down" vinyl, I usually glue down the "loose-lay" stuff but the say you can just do around the edges of the room. This is not Karndean. Vintage 9 Renaissance Winterwood vinyl with Mapei Eco 373 adhesive
@@BrentDarlington In situations where they don't drive in all the way do you just hammer them down? Sorry for the remedial questions. I haven't found explicit instructions for this stuff.
It will depend on a lot of factors. If it is a big square open room you can lay a lot. If there are a lot of small rooms it is going to take longer. The plank size will affect the time as well.
@@BrentDarlington I’m a commercial floor layer and I’d probably have that room fitted in less than have the time I wouldn’t be messing about with a measuring tape and guillotine because your can use the LVT plank as your marker for the cuts and the only tools is a straight and hook knife even with architraves and skirting boards door rebates cut exact to them
Luxury Vinyl Plank and tile is great in moist areas. We use it a lot in basements in my area. Bathrooms is great too, just not in the shower. If it will be wet all the time, then you will need to do some waterproofing and go with a tile or stone.
Just make sure the glue you are using is pressure sensitive and got vinyl planks. It’s expensive glue and of course make sure the glue is dry and tacky
Thanks for checking out this video. Please hit that subscribe button and the little bell so you can be notified when I put out new videos!
Brent, what market do you currently do work in?
@@AlexJacobsOfficial Home renos near toronto
Will it have gaps?
@@veev7796 There are seems but if done right, no gaps
Does the glue off gas? (Smell after install?)
Coming from a floor layer here, solid installation! I love that you’re using premium products that a professional like myself would recommend. A trick of the trade to make your fills go by much faster is to place a plank on top of the last row you laid (make sure it doesn’t move once in place), taking another plank and butting it against the wall on top of the previously mentioned plank. Once in place you may take your knife along the edge of the top plank scoring and snapping the bottom plank; perfect fit every time! To save more time I would also recommend using a knife opposed to your laminate cutter for end fills as well! Simply use the same strategy you use to mark it with a pencil but instead eyeball a straight cut from there (no square needed as the baseboards should cover any short cuts).
Having a good eyeball is a great tool that saves time and effort in all forms of construction. Good eye my friend. 😉
Also that's a good tip with laying a plank on top of your last plank. That would give you a perfect fit easily with minimal effort and no extra tools.
I was thinking about trying to save some money and install a glue-down myself but my god, this looks like a horrific amount of work. I'm gonna hire someone like you to do it. Thanks for the excellent video! I think this saved me a lot of issues.
Lol, glad I could help!
It takes a good amount of time lol I’m installing this at a house right now it’s not horrible once you get the hang of it but yeah if u don’t know ur better off hiring someone lol you never know what issues might pop up
@@kamdaddypurp69 all in the prep work. Laying the floor is the easy part
I just installed in my upstairs by my self. Looks great.
How do you call this kind of vinyl? Is it glue down vinyl plank flooring?
Great tips!! I made my husband and myself watch this whole video lol and I must say your camera angles are on point 👏👏 and it's much appreciated too, I could see everything and exactly how I need to approach this project. I hope it goes as well and easy as you made it look. Thank you 👍
Thanks! Let me know if you have any questions
Never make your husband watch a video again how dare you do that evil woman
@@DeuceGenius lmao
Great job, I have probably watch 20+ loose lay LVP how to vids today and no one addressed OSB except you!
Nice Brent! Putting that threshold piece as a single plank is a little harder but a much better look. Small details make all the difference, imo!
thanks!
Thanks for watching!
See the brands Ardex and Mapei brought back memories! Ardex's head office is not far from me. I used to sell both brands 10 years ago!
Very cool
Really excellent work from a floor laying perfectionist. I would hire you tomorrow to lay all my floors if I could !
Thanks!
Youre right, HVAC guys never care. Haha. My good buddy is an HVAC contractor. I'm a handyman, and I get many work references from him. Bless his heart, but hes so sloppy. I get called in to follow and work along with him to make things pretty. My advice to any other handy men and women is connect with some other tradesmen like an electrician or HVAC guy. Thanks for the vid. Needed a refresher for my brain.
I think if a few of the mechanical guys had to patch and paint some of the drywall holes they left behind they would be a bit more careful! They aren't all bad, they get paid to do what they do and we get paid to fix it lol
I’ve never done a glue down laminate, but it looks like once you get the prep work done, it goes pretty quick!
Yes a lot of prep but I like it a lot better than the click stuff. No soft spots, doesn't come apart or buckle.
I may try this next time one of my rentals gets trashed and needs redone.
And congrats on 100 subs! I feel like I’m racing you😂
@@MyDIYAdventures thanks! nothing wrong with a little competition ;)
@@MyDIYAdventures another great thing about glue down is if you get some damage you can just remove the bad pieces with a heat gun and reinstall. Pretty tough with click to do that
love glue down luxury vinyl tiles. It's easily the best type of flooring
Install wise I prefer the planks you just slide together jobs go much quicker when it’s not a glue down job ripping up old glue can be a pain lol but hey money’s money lol customer can order whatever they want
You deserve a lot more subscribers & business with great videos like this
Thanks! I have lots of business right now and that's cutting into my time to make more vids!
Excellent video. Can someone explain why the LVT cannot just be stick down onto the OSB? Why the need for the hardboard layer?
It's too rough
@@BrentDarlington thanks, makes sense yeah. Also I guess if you wanted to change the floor later on the subfloor would be ruined by the glue and would also need replacing.
Instead of using your floor leveler where you have to mix it with water can I use the premix one DAP flexible floor patch & leveler for plywood & concrete ?
I've never used it before so I cannot say for sure. I'm sure it's fine but may take a lot longer to dry in deeper areas.
Great Job!!! You made it look so easy!!!
Thanks!
We’re having glue down installed end of this month and had no idea what the process would be or what to expect. Safe to say, we will be getting a hotel room. Thanks for this super informative video. Saved us a huge headache.
You mean, like any other fat person, you couldn't do it yourself after watching this video (yeas, I was paralyzed and I just did my own floor with this video).
You could probably do it yourself if you tried :)
true statement on triangle, however with the room squared you can adjust the fill piece to be less noticeable . just coming off the longest wall can --if not square can make the pattern seem on a slight angle .1/4 inch no problem--1 inch trouble . usually most walls are 1/4 to 1/2 out .
Great video. I may do this for my small laundry room.
Great job Brent. Going to use glue down in a couple of duplexes that I have. Good explanation on all the prep work. Got you a new sub.
What brand of glue down vinyl did you use or recommend for residential?
Great Job!
23:58
Well done Brent, nice job! There's not much videos on LVT / OSB out there. Thanks for yours!
Not sure if you were lucky to fit the plywood boards to be level with the existing floor. If you can't afford to lift the floor with plywood then special putty is the way. Sand down OSBs, seal the drops and joints with the special putty (like SCHONOX ZZ or similar), sand down again and you're good.
3x4x5 provides that a room out of square does not present a small triangle piece down one or more walls , extremely important when ceramic tile is involved .
Can you explain a bit more? If the room is out, you will get the "triangle" effect no matter what you do. Centering just splits the difference and hopefully will be less noticeable. I can't rebuild the house to install the floor. The framers are the ones who need to use 3x4x5.
Thanks for the video what size sandpaper did you use? How long do you have to work with the glue?
What size or what grit sand paper? Open time depends on the adhesive and will tell you on the side of the bucket.
@@BrentDarlingtonlol sorry yes what grit I am going to finally start on my sun room after I install a mini split
Armstrong says the subfloor is plywood not osb or particle board. But many have installed this over ceramic tile, hardwood.
Ok? Thanks?
my mom in law has loads of that 70's vinyl sheeting flooring in her house... can one glue this directly over that? I only have experience with the floating type I;m installing in my rental unit now.
If its not padded and is held down tight, apparently you can if the glue says it will stick. I usually rip it out to be safe but you can put a new layer of underlayment ply over the old floor first. Or put click down over it.
@@BrentDarlington yeah the surface still looks flat and good just the prints are so out of date and not up to modern stuff, will probably fill a few low spots.
.
Wow amazing job
Thanks
Great video! Aye man crack kills @ 16:18 🤦🏽♂️
it happens
Really nice
Nice video!! I learned a lot thanks buddy.
Glad to hear it!
Hi, how do you think can I put my new luxury viny floor on my old laminate floor?(I don't have any gaps on it I just don't like the colour and the quality as well)
I'm trying to find a way how I can put on a new floor without taking off an old one. What do you think?
It is not that hard to rip out but if it is in good condition their may be a glue that would stick. You can also put a layer of plywood on top of the old stuff. The floor manufacturer will have a glue they recomend and the glue manufacturer will have a substrate they recommend.
Well done. Very clean and tight. 💪
Did good my man
Is this durable for a kitchen a bath?
Would the fridge and stove and dishwasher be placed on top or would we work around those items?
Thanks
Yes, very durable. Goes under appliances.
If you have a smooth Osb floor can you glue down directly to the osb without underlayment?
You could but I wouldn't
Excellent video! Two questions:
-What grit sandpaper did you use in your belt sander?
-What size trowel did you use for the adhesive?
Sorry if I missed it, my ears aren't the best. God bless!!
80 or 100 grit is usually what i use. If you go heavy wirh the patch maybe do a 60. The adhesive will have recommended trowel sizes. Sometimes you can use a roller, some people find that easier.
Great video my man !
I've done this job for 30 years and I have to say , it's as best as a professional can get ...however, I'm just curious about the 'platinum under layment'
Here in Australia it's 5mm hardboard.
That's what we use around here. I've ripped out a few floors with hardboard underlayment so it may have been popular 30 or 40 years ago.
Very helpful thanks
Thanks!
Do you have to roll it? I've heard that some people just use a hammer to tap it down.
I usually don't but you should follow the manufacturers recommendations
Do you have to let the glue dry a bit before putting the laminate down?
I tried to do it that way and it didn’t stick very good but when I put the laminate down right after spreading the glue instead it stuck really good.
Depends on the glue manufacturers recommendations. They can all be a bit different. Some stick better wet set but can be more messy
@@BrentDarlington so do you think it would work to install it wet? The glue says permanent installation open time up to 25 minutes I’m not sure what that means I’ve never done flooring before and lastly dose it matter how you spread the glue? Thanks
@@WesterlyPrune99 permanent means it's stuck, good to go. Yes, spread matters. How did you spread it?
I spread the glue and then pull down top to bottom so all the glue lines go in the same direction then I put the laminate down and press on it a bit. It seemed to work when I did that but I’m not sure it that’s how I’m supposed to do it
@@WesterlyPrune99 that's fine, direction doesn't matter just want the same right amount spread evenly
Thanks bro u helped me a lot 👍🏽
How should we wait for the glue to get ready for laying the floor and what’s the longest time can leave the glue before laying the LVT floor?
The adhesive manufacturer will have recommendations. Sometimes it is good a half hour, sometimes 2 hours. Somehave an open time for 24hrs, some 12hrs.
Great video this helped me out
what thickness of plywood? can you glue this to DMX-1 one step? is your LVP 2mm or thicker? Great video!
1/4" plywood. I'm not too familiar with the DMX stuff but look like you should use click flooring with the DMX one step.
Asking for my husband. Does he have to do it over if he put the planks down BEFORE the glue set?
Check the glue info sheet but they usually allow "wet set" and if it's sticking then it should be fine
I realize it is not recommended however, have you ever seen glue down LVP/LVT installed over OSB (a good OSB) and seen it after the job was done? Is it possible it comes out great if the OSB is in great shape?
If you went with some of the thicker materials I'm sure it would be fine but I wouldn't want to test it out.
Nice Job... What's the product name of the vinyl you're using here and where can I buy it?... It looks great 👍
So when the time comes to replace glue down lvp with new lvp what is the process? Do you need to remove the pressure sensitive glue from the underlay or can it be reused?
A lot of people go over the old stuff with new plywood but I like to rip it all out and redo
@@BrentDarlington When you say they go over the old stuff do they remove the old vinyl plank first?
@@kevinmartel9230 they leave it and go over top with new plywood and new floor
use quality prod, good job
Thanks!
Can I use a thinner plywood as underlay? I think we’re considering 5mm. Our subfloor isn’t in great shape but we’re not trying to break the bank.
5mm and 1/4" are the same. It's just under 1/4"
I have such bad gaps in my LVP. I glued it down with the right adhesive, used underlayment over the OSB, expansion gaps on the ends, etc.. Still tons of gaps. For the life of me, I cannot figure out why. Any thoughts?
Floors not flat or you need more practice
@@BrentDarlington The floor is flat; it's new construction. No offense, but I think I'm capable of laying planks flush against each other. They are separating 24 hrs after installation, despite being tight when I install them.
@@kevinl4080 I don't know what to tell you. I've never had that problem.
@BrentDarlington I've seen this issue with glue down lvp..especially where you may have different floor temperatures from sun coming shining through a window.. vinyl expands and contracts...more from end to end than side to side
What color is vinyl planks sir ? Could u put link on product
Would hardboard be sufficient instead of ply?
I'm sure it would work but I would use plywood. Follow the flooring and glue manufacturers recommended underlayment for best results 👌
@@BrentDarlington thanks Brent. I want it to last so I’ll take your advice and spend the xtra few quid on ply. 👍🏼
I’m getting ready to install mannington glue down flooring over SurePly underlayment. The underlayment video says they prefer their underlayment without feather finish. I noticed you did this step. Is this always required?
A lot of installers skip that step. I would just follow what the manufacturer recommends.
@@BrentDarlington thank you 😀
Great vid 👍 I’m wanting to install luxury vinyl planks upstairs in my home. The sub flooring is thick and in good shape(newer home) do I need to install the extra layer of plywood to the floor. If so, why? Thx
You need a good smooth surface for the glue. Any imperfections in the sub-floor can show through to the surface.
@@BrentDarlington ok thx
do you have to have skirting boards off, or does it look ok to work up to the existing skirting
You can leave them on and add a shoe molding to cover the gaps
What size staple to use . Thank you
I use 3/4 or 7/8"
Thanks for reply. @@BrentDarlington
I’ve just laid my LvT . One row I’m not happy with is it easy to lift up and replace ? I’ve laid them with F46 Ball. Over ply wood ?
You can pull them up but may be tough. Use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat it up a bit and soften the glue
Can you reuse & reglue planks that are lifted up?
@@pearlperlitavenegas2023 If they are in good condition should be fine
@@BrentDarlington thanks
Great video. I am getting ready to do this in my man cave. Thanks.
If there are dips or imperfections in the osb subfloor, wouldn't that transfer up through the underlayment you installed over it? I guess I'm wondering why the lvp couldn't just be done over the subfloor?
The osb is too rough for the glue as well
I am a disabled veteran (I say this because I am on a fixed budget) that is doing a remodel. I had to repair the subfloor and I would like I to do it the correct way you showed, however I am not going to be able to afford the present high cost of plywood. Would I be able to belt sand any points that are uneven and fill the gapes and sand (as you showed), glue and lay the floor. I have seen lots of statements by you that the underlayment is highly recommended, if not necessary, for a level surface but as stated 1/4" plywood for a house project is going to be out of my price range. Could I possibly use 1/8" wall paneling (cheaper) in order to get the larger area flat surface? What could happen to the floor if I proceed to do this.
If you go with a click style vinyl plank you won't need the plywood, nails and glue. You may need an underpad depending on the flooring but is usually the cheaper way to go. Usually more color and price options with click too.
after reviewing various options, i'm seriously considering some glue down vinyl. Those old sheets of vinyl lasted a long time.
It's more work but worth it. Working in some right now.
Hey can you lay this stuff over existing vinyl or lenoleum flooring from the 80s or do you need to lay sub floor? Thanks for the detailed video!
You should put down a new layer of plywood but it probably would stick
Brent is more of a pro then I am but I am going through the same thing. I have the sheet linoleum on my kitchen floor and am consulting people to lay down an lvp glue down for me. Everyone has so far said it'll stick to the linoleum. It has to be essentially flat and free on any bumps lumps etc etc etc. So I'm hoping for good results.
What is the flooring you put down under it called? It doesn’t look like wood.
It's birch plywood
That's a pressure-sensitive adhesive - you really should use a paint roller on it after application to prevent "grin through" from the dried adhesive. Also, straight cuts across a plank are much quicker using a straightedge & Stanley knife - score & break. Otherwise, excellent video
Ok, what is grin through? May as well just roll it out with a roller. Eco 373 is ok with it. I like the guillotine but to each their own.
@@BrentDarlington grin through is when you can see the lines left by the notched trowel showing through your tiles. Whole idea of the notched trowel is that it allows you to apply the correct amount of adhesive per square foot, rolling with a paint roller that's pre-wetted with adhesive leaves a smoother finish and still enough adhesive.
I'm interested in knowing more about the whole rolling over after application with the trowel. Do you do it once the glue is dry or as you are applying?
@@TheJosemarenco roll while the adhesive is still wet so that the lines left by the notched trowel are removed, then allow the adhesive to become almost dry before installing the tiles. This will allow a good adhesive transfer and also a little movement as you lay the tiles,rather than an instant immovable grab.
Is the plywood needed? I’ve seen some people don’t do it … just wondering
Depends on what the manufacturer recommends. Click vinyl usually doesn't need plywood unless the subfloor is a bit of a mess. You also don't need it on concrete floors.
Es aconsejable contar las jambas de las puertas antes de instalar
OK, thanks
Great video, are there any reasons why you prefer the glued vinyl planks vs the click together version?
And yo, we gotta talk about these camera angles. These are the best. Like, exactly what I need to see and understand. Especially for newbies like myself. Thanks!
Thanks! Why I like glue down: don't need to leave any expansion gaps, easier to replace any damaged pieces, don't get hollow areas like floating floors, can go under cabinets but more prep work, less material options, more expensive
Plus click systems I’ve found especially with lvt come apart so easily
Is there an underlayment that you recommend to make a gluedown floor (3mm) more comfortable to walk on, especially over a first floor concrete slab on grade. I love the idea of a gluedown floor but am concerned about how comfort when its laid over a slab on a first floor or even noise issues on plywood on a second floor. Is there any way to add an underlayment besides the one you use?
It's best to talk to a flooring store. There are lots of different options out there that may fit your needs
@@BrentDarlington will do
This is the first time I've seen "luxury" to describe vinyl.
I don't name it, just install it. They have "Luxury Vinyl Tiles" too
Honestly out of all the flooring out there I prefer this type, looks the best, easiest to work with, cheaper, I mean it's a win anyway you look at it
We just had over 10,000 sg ft installed in a commercial setting and it has for sure made me a believer. Wasn’t a fan of the flimsiness of it until I slid a 400 lb vault across it with no issue whatsoever! No scratching or gouging!
@@justinryan212 yea, apparently the vinyl has a lot more durability. I've seen a few videos doing tests on the different types of flooring planks, and the Vinyl takes the win each time
Do you have a link or description of the underlayment you used? If I was tearing off an old floor down to the old 1x6 tongue and groove would you recommend using usb over the top then the underlayment? Or just go with a thicker sanded plywood? Thanks! Video is super helpful
It is a 1/4" plywood underlayment made for vinyl flooring. It is usually in 4' x 4' panels at big box stores and may or may not have the "X"s on them for the nail location. If no Xs just go every 2" around the edges and 4" in the middle. If the tongue and grove is in OK shape, maybe just screw it down to the joists since it would just be nailed. I would go with a thicker sanded one side over the osb and 1/4" if you think it needs it.
@@BrentDarlington Can I use regular 1/4 plywood?
@@marinireyes you need good 1 side sanded plywood. You want a smooth surface for the glue. Humps and bumps can transfer through the floor. Thats why you patch and sand the joints.
@@BrentDarlington hiw about lanai
Luan board
I have seen people lay this tile as wood grained floor tile is laid (with space between the tiles and adhesive used instead of grout) Do you have any recommendations regarding this? Seems like a hell of a lot more time and work for this to be correct.
I've never seen that. They have grout for vinyl but usually used for luxury vinyl tile, not planks. I would follow the manufacturers instructions as close as possible.
can you install a light in the room so we can watch the video ?
turn up the brightness on your monitor
Where did you find the Platinum Underlayment? I can’t seem to find it in both “big box” stores(Home Depot & Lowes). Great work btw!
Flooring stores have them
@@BrentDarlington thanks for the quick response! Let’s hope it’s not too pricey now, relatively speaking.
Can I use Luan 1/4 instead? It's more economical
@@pearlperlitavenegas2023 Yes, just might need a bit more prep work. Filling and sanding
Great Job..Looks Awesome! Do you absolutely need to go over 3/4 plywood (not OSB) with another sheet of plywood like your u did here, If the 3/4 plywood is smooth and level?
Short answer, yes
@@BrentDarlington what is the plywood Underlayment you used and where did you get it?
@@anthonycaldi7056 1/4" birtch plywood. Should be able to get it at any big box store or flooring supplier. Luan plywood is cheaper but not as good.
@@BrentDarlington I disagree. Make sure plywood gaps (if any) are filled with a good filler like ardex feather fill and add appropriate screws to edges and imo you don't.
Can you glue it down in sections instead of glueing the whole floor then sticking them down?
Yes
I don't understand the nailing part. Wouldn't nails come up over period of time?
It is stapled down. Never had an issue with them coming up over time. They are usually pretty tough to get out when you are ripping out an old floor
Damn u made it look difficult
Would you recommend installing over tile?
If the tile is in good condition, yes. Check what the adhesive manufacturer recommends for prep. You will need to clean the tile very well and fill in all the grout lines.
What type of glue you used and why you put that sheet of wood?
Pressure sensitive glue. The plywood gives a flat and smooth surface to glue to.
Brent , what if my floor is concrete with marble tiles? How am i gonna use a nail gun for the plywood?
You don't need the plywood over tile. You should be able to patch the grout lines and go right over top of the tile. You may want to prime the tiles fist with something like "Mapei Eco Prime Grip" but see what the glue and patch manufacturers recommends.
You should have put a link down below
What are the tools you used?
I used a circular saw to cut the plywood, a narrow crown stapler attached to a compressor to attach the plywood, a drywall knife to spread the patch, a notched trowel to spread the glue, a square, a knife, a tape measure, a guillotine to cut the vinyl, knee pads, safety glasses...I think that's it. There are some links in the description for the tools, thanks for watching!
What size staples do you use to hold down your underlayment
I use 7/8"
Question....what is the name of the board with all the x's on it called that you covered the osb with?
It's quarter 1/4" plywood underlayment made for vinyl floors. You can get it at flooring stores or big box stores. They may only come in 4x4 sheets, I used 4x8 sheets
Can you apply this same type of floor directly on real hard wood floors ?
It would probably be fine but I would check with the flooring and glue manufacturer. It will also depend on what condition the hardwood is in. Best bet would be to put down the underlayment.
Did you start at the door to avoid having a smaller piece (door frame width) right in the door opening? I would have probably start in the middle like you mentioned with a chalk line, but wondering if this would have been considered a "bad looking job" with that small sliver at the door. Thanks and great video!
Since I had already finished the hallway I wanted a continuation from there. You don't want to center each room on it's own and have cut pieces at the doors. Too hard to get a clean seem and don't want to have transition strips. Looks professional when it is continuous.
@@BrentDarlington Oh yeah totally forgot about the clean seam. Hard to have a 100% straight & clean rip cut, even with a track saw! One last question: Do you have any tip to lay your first row straight since you're not next to the wall? I was thinking of doing a dry fit before glue and snap a line with a chalk line. Would that help?
@@mathieuallaire5436 I usually lay a couple rows together and keep all the gaps tight. That will also get you an area to walk. Marking a width or 2 out and doing a chalk line works well too. Probably best to do both.
Hey just wondering what the thickness of the flooring is ?
This stuff is around 1/8"
@@BrentDarlington Okay thanks. Great video as well !!
@@therarebreed8038 thanks!
Can kitchen cabinets be built over glue down vinyl planks?
I'd check with the manufacturer for the floor you get but should be fine.
is this loose lay or glue down? did I miss you using glue? what product are you using... Karndean? so many unanswered questions. I've watched dozens of LVP videos and never seen anyone use OSB... where are you located that you need that?
The OSB is the sub-floor that the builder used, I'm outside of Toronto and it and plywood are common here for newer homes. I put down a 1/4" plywood underlayment over the OSB sub-floor to glue the floor down to. If it was a plywood sub-floor, you would still need the underlayment. OSB and regular plywood is too porous and rough for this type of floor, you need the sanded plywood. You must have missed the gluing, it is glued. This is "glue-down" vinyl, I usually glue down the "loose-lay" stuff but the say you can just do around the edges of the room. This is not Karndean. Vintage 9 Renaissance Winterwood vinyl with Mapei Eco 373 adhesive
How should I space my staples? 2-4 inches apart? What length? Thanks!
2" around the edges, 4" in the middle. I like to use 7/8" staples
@@BrentDarlington I used 3/8s plywood to cover the osb, then 1.5 in staples. Probably overkill.
@@youngn9na92 we use thicker plywood to meet up with higher floors. Bigger staples are ok but i find you get more that don't get driven in all the way
@@BrentDarlington In situations where they don't drive in all the way do you just hammer them down? Sorry for the remedial questions. I haven't found explicit instructions for this stuff.
@@youngn9na92 yep, hammer them down
Where did you buy them from.
I think it is discontinued. I can't find any links online for it anymore. Sorry!
How many squared meters can one person fit per day .
It will depend on a lot of factors. If it is a big square open room you can lay a lot. If there are a lot of small rooms it is going to take longer. The plank size will affect the time as well.
@@BrentDarlington I’m a commercial floor layer and I’d probably have that room fitted in less than have the time I wouldn’t be messing about with a measuring tape and guillotine because your can use the LVT plank as your marker for the cuts and the only tools is a straight and hook knife even with architraves and skirting boards door rebates cut exact to them
@@badger25802 It looks like you save on time by not using periods.
@@BrentDarlington Brent, that's a good one! BTW, love the vid's.
Do you not have to roll the final product
Yes, you should
Well done! Couple of Qs
1. What staples did you use?
2. What brand of flooring did you use?
Thanks
I usually use a 7/8" long 1/4" crown staple. Renaissance Vintage 9 Winterwood
can this be glued right to the OSB or does it need the underlayment?
Depends on the flooring, follow the manufactures recommendations
Good
Thanks
Hi ben howlong did this take you
Takes longer when filming but probably a day with all the dry times.
How many squarefoot is in this room?
120ish
Do you have any recommendations for installing vinyl flooring in homes near the water, where the moisture is pretty consistently high?
Luxury Vinyl Plank and tile is great in moist areas. We use it a lot in basements in my area. Bathrooms is great too, just not in the shower. If it will be wet all the time, then you will need to do some waterproofing and go with a tile or stone.
Ceramic Tile
Just make sure the glue you are using is pressure sensitive and got vinyl planks. It’s expensive glue and of course make sure the glue is dry and tacky