ALDI/Ferrex mechanical drill teardown
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- Опубліковано 24 січ 2023
- This didn't go quite to plan. The screw that holds the chuck onto the output shaft seems to have major threadlock on it, so I didn't get to explore the final clutch stage internally
But it's revealed the PCB module that we're all interested in anyway. I'll leave the proper mechanical teardowns to my Canadian UA-cam-bro AvE the tool-teardown master.
First thoughts on the 20V version of the electronics are that the base module only switches off power to the variable speed trigger when it detects a battery with low charge or overheating. Its power supply deserves further investigation, as the module is always powered when the battery is connected, so my thought that it might use a simple resistive dropper isn't an efficient way of doing that.
The thermistor input that enables the tool seems to operate between a resistance of 2K and 68K. The thermistor can be switched off by the battery, so it may be using that to stop the tool when the battery is low.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of UA-cam's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators - Наука та технологія
The ball bearings are the adjustable torque clutch. The ball bearings drive the ring with the ramps on it. As you spin the ring, it applies more compression to the springs behind the ball bearings. This in turn means that the more torque can be transmitted before the bearings climb the ramps and the clutch slips. AvE has a neat video where he disassembles a similar drill and explains the full drive train.
A few years back we used the motors and gearboxes as drive units for 12kg Fighting Robots (Robot Wars style machines). This involved disassembling cordless drills. One of the first tasks would be to clamp the chuck, then use a large allen key or screwdriver to loosen the LEFT HANDED treaded screw/bolt. Sometimes they are held in with a dab of thread lock so little percussive persuasion can help.
The noise is most likely the motor brake, somewhere in the circuitry it will bridge the motor positive and negative stalling the motor. The "clack" will be the shock going through in the gearbox as it comes to a dead stop.
Hah! I was going to say the same thing. Kinda sad in a way they've slightly fallen to the wayside as more purpose built small planetary gearboxes can be had for peanuts on aliepress or people don't need much reduction at all with fancy current limited BLDC low KV sensored systems that get away with a single spur gear stage. I still love my drill drives and will snap up the old dewalt drills people chuck on ebay for pennies when the NiCads die out. Small world.
The RS-775 is an absolute classic power drill motor, there was one in my grandfather's decades-old 14.4v Ni-Cd Ryobi drill, and I've seen it in everything from desktop engravers to PCB drills. The LM358 of palm-sized DC motors. That mechanical mode switch built into the gearbox, with the plastic housing and long lever is also a very common design. I would not be surprised if it were just one company in China sucking up all the power tool contracts for the past 50 years. Those chucks usually have a retaining screw driven down the front (open the jaws wide and look down the barrel), after removal of which you just clamp an L-shaped piece of metal like an allen wrench/hex key down in the jaws and give the cantilevered arm a sharp whack counterclockwise.
Yeah but
The screw is too tight to undo when disassembled was what the big man was telling us.
Bin there
Done that.
RS-775? Presumably bigger brother to the equally ubiquitous Mabuchi RS-540 as used in countless radio controlled cars and planes?
I had to pull apart my Einhell hedge trimmer and the weapon of choice in that seems to be the RS-550 - the brushes had worn out completely due to arcing after 4 years of light use - the brush assemblies seem to be ten a plenty on the bay and the like, so easy fix - suspect most would dump the entire thing in the bin and buy a new one since Einhell don't sell just the motor and a new unit-only is around 50 quid. Interestingly however, the motor is rated at around 60W from what I've found - yet it works as effectively as a 25CC petrol trimmer and probably a 2000W corded unit - puzzling!
I’m quite amazed at the technology involved here! Mr. Sturmey & Mr. Archer would appreciate this.
AvE doesnt do many boltr vids anymore. You should do more teardowns, as theyre highly enjoyable
Methinks that 2 ankle biters are taking up lots of his time! Gotta get em young, and train em right!
I unsubscribed from his channel. Long time since he did something that was appealing to me. Babbles a bit too much nowadays…
check out I do cars, he's got some kick butt engine disassembly vids.
@@MyTubeSVp Agree. Seems to do stuff mostly involving his milling machine these days. Miss the tear downs.
@@dizzy2020 as much as I agree with his politics, it does seem a bit ham-fisted at times
About 25 years ago my boss described mine as being a "volcano desk" where all the hot stuff I worked on was in the centre, and all the cold stuff was slowly being shoved off the edge.
i have to remember this one 😂
I remember reading about volcano desk management, it was an actual thing. Your scenario above but with an added step i.e. the lower priority things fall off the edge of the desk to be picked up (by someone else) and placed in the middle . You come in to work and see the item, review it, draw the same conclusion as last time and push it to the side.
Don't let my wife hear that one 🤣
Not sure if anyone commented but the screw in the chuck is left handed then the chuck unscrews from the shaft normally you may need to close the chuck on a large Allen wrench to break it lose. The ball bearings are part of the clutch and the breakaway as the ball climbs the ramp.
You did miss the one way clutch that locks the rotation of the output shaft so the single handed chuck works. It happens when a rotational load is applied from the outside of the tool. the hammer portion is very close to the chuck when you get that far.
When you didn't remove the chuck right at the start I thought "this isn't going to end well".
Yeah. Hindsight is a wonderful thing.
@@bigclivedotcom By any chance, were you trying to unscrew the screw holding on the chuck like a normal screw? Chucks usually have left hand threads (lefty-tighty righty-loosey), using vice grips to hold the opposite end should let you open it (though you may have tightened it quite a bit lol)
@@deceitive3338
Yea...
The Chuck screw is usually the other way.
Use a crosshead bit that Exactly fits the screw and clamp Chuck ring.
@@deceitive3338 Correct, most chuck screws are left hand thread
@@deceitive3338 Dangit. I wish I read your comment before I posted.
Good to see you taking over BOLTRs since AvE sadly disappeared up his own fundament some time ago.
I really really miss the old AvE videos.
But for most people their attention span for anything is 5 years or less. It's rare to find someone like Clive unless they just really really love what they do.
Shout out to Torque Test Channel as well, for doing non-shill benchmarking of tools, like AvE.
(he's around, but yea, the BOLTRs have sadly become far and few; but in general seems busy with house repairs and family it seems)
Like that Clive is doing the EU specials and ebay cheapo products!
yeah you read my mind with this comment. I cant remember the last AvE video I watched. Id love to see clive do more of these cause I miss the BOLTRs
@@JLneonhug are you John by any chance? :o
As always I just love your honesty and humour and what you do. All the best Alex
Interesting how even the cheapest of tools like this need to be somewhat precise with gearing, and all the other parts and processes before there's a finished product.
My favorite videos of yours are ones like this, looking at many interesting bits in products and overlap electrical engineering interests with other interests
The loud clack that drills sometimes have when they stop is a result of there being a special clutch that prevents the drill from being back-driveable, i.e. the motor can turn the chuck but you can't turn the chuck by hand to spin the motor. The reason it's there is to allow you to tighten and loosen the chuck without spinning the motor instead, but it does mean some drills are less suitable for running heavy attachments with lots of inertia. You can majorly fuck up your drill, or your wrists that way. By the way, the screw down the center of the chuck is often left-hand thread, I'm told. You might want to try loosening it the other way.
Thanks Clive.
Another great tear down on how a tool works. Handy to know what’s inside if one of mine ever has an issue.
Have Aldi/Lidl 20v tools and some mains units as well and never had any issue with the quality etc. Also have mainstream brands and frankly not found much difference except the horrendous cost of main brand units.
Strange fact many modern if not all keyless chucks have an unique feature.
After tightening by powering up the drill as I normally do.
If one then manually attempts to open the chuck with a sharp twist of the hand there is a distinctive “click” which I’m told “ locks “ the chuck.
Since I discovered this I have to admit I have not had a hammer action concrete bit come loose in the chuck.
For homeuse its perfectly fine!
the expensive bosh drills etc really just makes sense if you use them daily in work.
Considering how little practice you have with BOLTRs, I'd say this went better than expected. I was quite impressed with how quickly you figured out the forward/reverse shift; it's actually quite similar to the reverse linkage a typical manual transmission.
9:03 You probably know this, but the chuck threads are usually left-hand threads. Last year i had a PowerPlus drill with a burned motor, i did get the central screw with left-hand threads out of the chuck, but the chuck itself did not came loose (probably a conical press fit as well), so i could not open the plastic shell that contained the motor and had to buy a new battery drill.
The speed those motors run at is always amazing to me. I've often thought about hooking one up to a flex drive like a dremel just because ;-)
A Dremel runs faster usually (!) I think it's usually about 40,000rpm
@@rpavlik1 from what I remember, max speed was 24,500 on mine.
Brilliant and so very good to see and hear you again! I have missed your voice, tartan sleeves and the multi meter! I have taken to just watching the stuff UA-cam decides I want to see and it’s fun Clive.
Bob
England
The complexity of the drive train is amazing, at least to me - way over my head.
Clive, we love you. You should do the electrical analysis, cause you are amazing at it. And after you do that, farm it off to AVE for his BOLTR. But make you do yours first, cause he is known “blowing the ass end” out of mosfet and his healing bench swallowing disassembled tools.
You can clamp the inner end of the drive with a visegrip then clamp the vicegrip into the vice of knowledge to get holding leverage to try unscrewing the chuck screw.
Use 2 pieces of a paint stir stick to sandwich the gear so you don't damage it.
I would say it has a lock on the chuck to allow you to release your bits from the chuck. If it spun freely, you'd have issues loosening and tightening the chuck :)
Hi Clive, the screw that holds the chuck is normally left-hand thread, so it doesn't loosen.
I recommend investing in an impact driver for stubborn screws/nuts. It does wonders as I found out. For some reason, I always only mentally connected them to changing tires on my car...
Chuck screw has left handed thread BTW. (Chuck is right handed).
Most of these brushed drills make a clacking sound when the trigger is released. Releasing the trigger applies a short across then motor to create and inductive brake. When the inductive brake is applied to the motor, I causes the multi-stage gear set to rattle as the backlash between all the gears is taken up.
When you do this there is a big spark or flash at the brushes, well in my case a brushed motor. I always think that this in time would stuff the brushes so I would release the trigger slow to avoid it.
My first encounter with those planetary gears was opening up an old Black & Decker cordless screwdriver to replace the nicads. You drive a pin out of the body of the thing and the mechanicals come away from the rest of it. Unfortunately when I did that I had it the wrong way up, and all of the gears fell out on to the floor....
You are right about the motor being a major part of thecost of the thing. We got a Bosch cordless drill some time back and at one point it started spitting out sparks and emitting copious quantities of that magic smoke. The replacement motor cost me almost two thirds of what the drill cost in the first place. And I notice that the current version of that model has externally accessible brushes, which mine does not. That motor is crimped at the end that would be where you'd open it, and I haven't figured out a good way to attack that just yet.
Interesting teardown. Funny timing I just replaced the motor in my Bosch 12V drill. Agree it is amazing the mechanical complexity of these tools.
Bravo on the replacement of your motor. I have the 12v Bosch impact since about 2015 and done a lot of work with it, Built walls, wood and steel, generally beat it to death. (weekend jobs) The trigger went bad a couple of years ago, I couldn't bear to part with it, so I spent $50 for the part (it's a switch). Couldn't believe how much they pack in such a small case, was really tricky to put back together, but it still goes and goes. I hope the newer ones are as good.
@@DanielNotDeadYetThomas Agree, I have both the Bosch PS31 12V drill and PS41 driver. I've used them extensively over the years. No steel but lots of DIY walls, roofs and decking etc. The drill was an upgrade to a NiCad one I could not believe the difference. I bought a spare set of clone batteries so I can just swap out when empty. Rarely use my mains powered drill anymore. Lets hope we both have lots of life left in our tools.
Probably no help to you now, but here's a good trick for removing small drill chucks: Do it before you tear the drill apart. Remove the retaining screw (amost always a left-hand thread), then chuck the largest allen key that will fit into the drill on, and wind it out in low-speed reverse.
The retaining screws usually have a tonne of blue loc-tite on them, but come loose with minimal pursuasion if you turn it the correct way.
like loosening the wheel nuts when changing tires on a car is best done before the car is hoisted, the chuck screw is easiest (still hard) undone when the gearbox reduction and motor are still attached.
As with removing the screw holding the chuck, watch out for some old cars with LH threaded wheel nuts on the left (I think) side. My 1968 Alfa had this, and I had to stand over the mechanics in the tyre shop to stop them buggering up the studs and lugs. When I had to install longer studs for alloy wheels, they were all RH threaded.
ALDI are selling a number of their Ferrex tools for £9.99! I got an impact driver for a fiver in December.
Their battery grinder is an amazing tool. If you haven't already got one then reconsider!
@@kellyeye7224 Very tempted, however 1) I do not have any Ferrex batteries, or a charger. 2) I have two mains powered grinders. 3) My Ferrex impact driver has a Makita battery connector fused to it, as I have other Makita kits.
Clive, good tear down. NOW let's see you put it back together and make it work.
While BigClive has the Explosive-Proof Pie Plate, Ave has the Healing Bench. Don't know where those are available at retail.
I took a similar one apart to use to drive an oil pump for a DIY jet engine. Very similar construction. They basically fall to bits when you take them apart so they are hard to reuse for other things. I did get the chuck off mine but I can't remember how now. And yes, it was threadlocked on!
I do believe they're a left handed thread.
You know what’s the most satisfying thing about AVE’s videos? In the end most of the time the jumble of parts ends up back together in a working tool. How did I know we were going to get the big Clive ending where everything is till a jumble of parts. Which I’ll admit is kind of disappointing because it’s just like the things I manage to take apart half the time. “Oh that’s how it works cool”, picks out anything that might be useful in the future and sweeps rest into garbage…
Most things I take apart do get fully reassembled afterwards. Or at least stripped for useful bits.
ive taken a festool gear box apart. took me bout 10 reassemblies to get the friggin thing back together and working again
.......there's where tweezers come in handy.....Great video.
just like i stated on the grinder video i have had these tools in my FLT service van for over 3 years they just work and still going strong in an industrial environment.used quite frequently... i would buy again .
1mm cutting discs do the work on the grinder and decent drills do the work on the drill , Under heavy use if you smell the heat from any power tool it is a good idea to let it cool down so as to help protect the battery and the motor insulation.
Ferrex have been a better deal than numerous dewalt / makita /hitachi mid proffesional gear etc i have gone through over the years.
I have recently purchased a new aldi brand ( scheppach) demolition sds plus hammer drill that i am well impressed with for £60
The removal of the chuck is a rather brutal procedure which involves putting the tool in a vice and smacking the allen key in the screw with a (heavy) hammer. Not for the faint of heart. I guess an impact driver might do the trick as well. It should be a left-hand thread, so you loosen it by turning it clockwise. Seeing that you have already destroyed it, you might as well give it a go.
The reason why the chuck does not move unless if you take out the last metal bit from the gearbox out is because it's not supposed to. It's the brake, which enables you to use the keyless chuck by providing something to tighten it against. It allows the chuck to turn only when actuated from the gearbox side.
So if you put the brake in again, make sure it does not fall out, put the gearbox housing in a vice, insert an allen key into the chuck screw and whack it clockwise with a lot of force, it should come loose. Don't expect to see anything exciting though, there's just the short axle and a bearing. Whatever made it stop with a clunk is elsewhere (I suspect the brake).
It is also common for the screw holding the chuck to be lefthand thread.
Indeed it is done as horrovac tells us. It's really not that hard when you have typical diy
mechanic tools. An impact driver is a boon for tight screws, when you know how to use them.
After removal of the lhthreaded screw, you tighten the chuck down onto a chunky allen key
and(drill body in vise) unscrew the chuck rhthread as normal with a bit of tube on the allen key,
or hitting the allen key with a hammer.
@@WilliamWallace14051 I have said so in my post. Did you miss it?
I've managed to remove the chuck from a couple of drills, but my old Makita refuses to play ball. I know it is a LH thread but the screw is a cross head, almost impossible to get a good purchase on to get enough power to break the lock. A hex or torx head would be so much easier.
@@albanana683 Hold the damaged chuck on a vice and drill the head of the screw, remove the chuck and then remove the remaining screw using vice grip pliers.
Well I've seen the inside of those two stage switchable gear boxes, but never one with that optional hammer stage. Very interesting, thanks for the sacrifice! (That honestly looks pretty reasonable, is that even a metal chuck?)
Nice touch removing the screws ahead of time. As this really is not the media to watch a lot of screwing. (sorry could not resist). 😎
''as far as I can go'' well you went deep on this one, really tore it up good, stuff flingin' and flyin' across the room, in such skilled hands made a nice mess ...
is that a blood sacrifice under that plaster? new moon new year and all.
That's cracked skin on the knuckle.
The loud clack when stopping will be the dynamic brake, it shorts out the motor so stops almost instantly you will find a burnt pair of contacts in the trigger
Busy right now will watch your amazing video later
With my Makita
I did a gearbox swap.
I made the same chuck mistake.
I found a socket that fit the shaft at the back and boy was the screw inside the chuck loctite.
Left hand thread too if I remember.
I busted a hex key tryng to remove a chuck from a drill - same problem! Very tight and un-disassemblable!
The loud clack when it stops is just the slop (backlash) in the gearbox when the electronic brake engages. It's more noticeable with a metal chuck because it has more mass than a plastic one. Also, when you try to remove the chuck, bear in mind it's going to be a left hand thread....
The Chuck screw is usually the other way.
Use a crosshead bit that Exactly fits the screw and clamp Chuck ring.
I have one of these. The clunking sound will be from the electronic brake. Unfortunately the chuck comes un- done randomly and drops the bits. The original Jacobs design chucks with self locking work well but the Chinese knock off's don't.
I was going to say the same about the sound, my old Dewalt drills do it too.
I got a makita drill can confirm, does a similar thing as it slows down obviously if you stop it instantly that doesn't happen but if you ramp it down slowly you hear the heavy Chuck etc hitting to against the part of the mechanism that slowed down because of the slack between them.
The screw inside the chuck is usually a left-hand thread - turn clockwise to loosen :)
Your bench is not that bad, have you ever seen what AvE's looks like? How does he ever find anything in that mess?
Also, the screw inside the chuck may be left hand threaded, as some are.
Good video!
Ave prides himself on that bench of his. A single sweep of the arm pushes all the stuff out the way for a new project.
You need the appropriate amount of clutter on the healing bench in order for the healing to occur. That's where it gets the healing properties from
One moment please 🤣..
That centre screw inside the chuck is left-hand thread... Should be easy to unscrew because it's normally no thread locker from the factory
I tried left hand, but this one was locked tight.
Well that made a mess, and interesting inside. Great video 2x👍
Ah! Cheers! Pretty sure I own this. Different brand, same OEM. I ❤️ seeing it taken to bits. It has worked for my DIY, so far. Only owned 2 yr.
Out of curiosity, which brand is yours?
some drills have a left hand thread screw to hold chuck in
The older 'blue' versions had an issue with the motor brush holders being made from very thin brass and, at full load, the current was enough to melt them! I was hoping you'd have a closer look to see if they'd improved on that arrangement? It necessarily means taking the rear cover off the motor (and potentially ruining it) but might be worth investigating?
Happened to my Makita knock off, bought a new motor $12aud on Ebay and bobs your uncle. The brush holders are very week.
ooh a Bolter I love these
Very impressive gearbox for a homebrand power tool☺️
every skidmark on that workbench, tells its own story!
the chuck retaining screw is left handed thread to stop it unscrewing in normal use
The quote on the eBay description of the fault... sometimes stops and makes a noise... immediately made me think: some eejit has never used the torque setting before 🤔🤣😂🤣
11:43 - Your way past the “once I muster up the courage to rip into it” 😅
Liquid courage makes such projects much easier to start (and harder to finish.)
i brought a drill, a really cheap one, like 12 pound for it back in the day. i used it week in week out for 7 years.... i thought it would only do 7 days..... it showed up the other high priced drills on the shelf....same deal now with a nut runner i use daily.... some company's use quality parts at affordable prices, its hard to find out unless try'd and tested,its the real bad companys use cheap parts and past it off as good... this can put off people buying cheaper equipment from a cheaper outlet that may turn out be long lasting...
The threads are reverse threads on the screw that holds the Chuck on.
To get the chuck off . normally when you open the jaws there's a screw ( phillips or a torx 20 in nicad B and D ) these are left hand thread righty loosey left tighty , then the chuck is itself is lefty loosey ( std thread ) . You can normally loosen the internal screw by holding the chuck , getting the chuck off is easy when the drill is complete , just grip a large allen key and hit it with a mallett/palm of hand . The left/right threads are so no matter which direction the drill is being used , 1 of the threads is tightening .
Bit late to the party I know. These drills have a locking mechanism so you can tighten the keyless chuck, it's the 2 small round pins I can see on your pile o parts. When you rotate the shaft by hand at 'chucktightening' speed they will hold firm the drive shaft so you can apply force, without this lock the chuck would simply turn when you try to tighten. When the motor drives the shaft these 2 pins will centrifugal out of the way so everything turns normally.
There's very little inside the trigger mechanism. Usually a sliding switch with several contacts for discrete speed steps (rather than a potentiometer track you might expect), a few resistors, the odd capacitor, a small PWM IC, a large MOSFET (fastened to the piece of metal on the outside, as a heatsink) and a large transient suppression diode. The reversing control just swaps the connections to the motor with some beefy contacts, and full speed connects the motor directly to the battery (more big contacts). It is possible to change the MOSFET and reassemble, if you are careful. They sometimes fail - I know someone that really abuses tools until they almost completely die!
"very little inside" lol. just a full motor controller
@@lezbriddon You can take a look for yourself, as one of Clive's UA-cam friends dismantled a speed controller a while back:
ua-cam.com/video/G-TD0C_7ZMo/v-deo.html
@@threeMetreJim oh I'm not disputing what the parts are in there I've many of these tools, just what it does isn't really nothing, that used to be on a 2 inch square board occupying most of the handle 25 years ago, aka the 90s... When you could still repair it.... Now it's all 2mm square smd stuff you can't solder even with a one eyed pirate squint, and if the IC has taken a leave of it's senses your not going to find another.... My Lidl jigsaw "throttle" went up in smoke 18 month ago never found one to fit. As for Lidl batteries.... A charge chip you can actual buy but not find a datasheet for, if it sees a battery condition it doesn't like, it will never do the golden handshake with the charger again.
Bring back cheap black n decker lol, at least you only had to get the motor rewound I've a year.
since you are on about the things thinking bits, and they are the same in the impact driver, perhaps you know why it spins up for few seconds at full power and then kills itself?
@@deaultusername An odd fault, but maybe the back EMF diode has gone causing the circuit to malfunction from spikes or maybe the MOSFET has become damaged in some strange way. They are not the easiest things to repair but possible if you are careful.
You are channeling your inner Chris.
AvE has struggled with the same thing left hand bolt right hand thread on chuck once you get the center bolt out tighten the chuck on an Allen wrench give it a wack with the hammer of knowledge and you should be good to go. Great video as always
You saved me the trouble to write this, your spot 🤙🏼🇦🇺
Still making quality content...Thanks, Clive!
Motor is rs775. Which is located in almost all low-mid end drills.
Sweet, Big Clive is doing BoLTRs now! Release the schmooo!
These and the Impact gun (at least) are made by Positec/Worx, and the Worx tools will happily use the Ferrex batteries - the non 'active energy' ones I should point out ;-)
I would have thought the screw on the chuck was reverse threaded. You've done this before; many more times that I.
The chuck is normally secured with a left hand thread screw in the centre of the chuck
12:30 I, in other hand think that gearbox(if its metal or plastic parts) and electronic components decide if tool is good quality, as almost all tools I had died because of dead trigger/mosfet part or cheap gearbox module that had plastic gears, Most of time when actual motor died, was because of not motor itself(as most of brand tools and cheap tools use the same motor) but side components that cook motor in some way, or really bad vent grids placement that collect dust that went into motor/electronic. Like I had cheap copy of dremel that worked really well(as it had exactly the same motor as dremel I had, even markings where the same) but someone put few vent holes on case near speed control switch or near motor fan inside and often metal particles went inside, short it and motor go berserk in full speed or some particle go between magnets inside and I had nice sounds straight from hell...
I got a £20 "hammer" drill from Aldi about 5 years ago just as they were bringing in the Ferrex branded stuff and I abused that thing with drilling sold brick, chewing 25mm holes in joists some metal and its kept chugging along. What killed it was the chuck. Just started loosening off as you used it. Shame as it was a dinky wee thing and light weight too so was great to use loads.
"This is going a bit AvE, isn't it?" My thoughts exactly. And nothing wrong with that. 😎
I've found the Lidl/parkside ones to be excellent. My whole set of cordless tools is parkside bought at various points over the last 2-3 years.
I've had one battery over discharged though.
did you ever try to resurect it? i have had zero success with mine it seems once the chip detects a cell error thats it your locked out...
Same, though I regret one purchase. Some of their battery-powered tools just don't make sense for their "intended purpose". The cordless hammer drill we got a few years ago failed miserably at drilling through a concrete wall, whereas a proper corded one we could borrow (a Hilti) went through within seconds.
€dit: just checked the date code on the battery pack/charger, and it's been "slightly" longer than just a few years. According to the codes we got the drill in 2013 xD So something might have changed in those ~10 years, but I still think high-power tools like hammer drills are not meant to be run with batteries.
@@NiyaKouya The quality of Parkside power tools seems to have gone up significantly shortly before they started standardizing the battery packs. I think that'd be 2017 or thereabouts?
I have had a fairly wide selection of cordless tools and brands ranging from a top.of the range high torque DeWalt impact wrench down to small Macalister screw driver. From experience Aldi Ferrex 20/40v range are excellent value much better than Lidl Parkside. I find them decent.qualty probably not far below Keilder in quality The Ferrex cordless chainsaw is awesome it convinced me to buy into the Ferrex 20/40v battery system for all but the most powerful tools or tools that weren't in the range such as cordless ratchets.
As if by magic a paper towel appeared 🙂
Another great video. What is your impression of the build quality (especially considering the low price) ?
I have this drill and I am impressed by it.
Most of these tools are very usable.
What a very wise answer. 🙏
When you tried to turn the chuck but it was locked up this is by design and all drills with a twist lock chuck do this, if they did not then you would never be able to tighten the chuck so when the drill is not powered it locks so you can tighten the chuck and when you pull the trigger it disengages the lock and spins, as for the loud noise when the drill stops again this is quite normal because if you are using the drill and remove your finger from the trigger it will engage the lock mechanism stopping the rotation instantly resulting in the clack noise .
I had an old GMC drill and it would spin freely and I would go in the opposite direction to loosen or tighten the bit. But anyway I used the old GMC to spin start the mower till it wore out as in no brushes left. The new ALDI one with the lock chuck also locks at speed when the mower starts violently jerking the drill in the hand, so I never used it for this again.
Clean it all up, put it in a box and you have a "Build Yourself a Power Drill Kit" as a Christmas present :-)
Now I want to see a vid of you putting it back together
If I recall the the chuck screws are left hand thread.
OK, now let's see you reassemble it and get it working again! ;-)
There's a clutch-lock mechanism separate to the outer clutch ring. There's a great vid for it, I'll track it down.
;)
My father got us a Ferrex handheld compressor for Christmas, because I kept asking for one to clean my PC... I should probably actually do it.
I would love to see an expensive one torn down, and the differences, if any, noted.
I had 1 of these but it locked up for no reason so I bought another but it seems better quality
Poor little drill, R.I.P 😪
I have one and the chuck screw is just super tight I use mine to start the kids quad and the chuck head snapped off first time I used it
Construction of the IKEA Fixa electric screwdriver is almost identical! To the point I think it's the same motor and gearbox.
These are on offer on the Aldi website for £9.99 that's a lot of drill for under ten quid.
For the circuit, I'm guessing it relies on the previously shown battery board turning off the NTC when battery is low, thus causing the drill to think the battery temperature is off the charts cold, just like when you didn't connect the test resistor early in the video.
Interesting teardown. I feel sort of bad that it came apart in a manner not allowing reassembly but that drill looks like it is of halfway decent construction. I have seen cheap drills with nylon gears in them, at least these appear to be of metal.
I worked with a joiner and all his power tools were from the German supermarkets they worked fine for him
Thanks again for another interesting vid big fella.
Hmm- I once took an old B&D cordless drill apart that didn't have hammer action and it still had that bearing and ring arrangement- I guess B&D were doing that thing CPU manufacturers do where the top of the range chip is exactly the same as a lower end chip that's just been clocked down. ATB.
The Torque Test Channel has some great videos featuring hammer mechanisms.
Oooh MELFs. Looking forward to the circuit reverse engineering video! AvE just glosses over them. 😁
Coming soon. If took a while to reverse engineer the PCB.
How many amps did it draw when it was running off the bench power supply? I thought these pulled a bunch of current, but maybe only when under some load?
It was pushing the supply at 15v 5A. If I pulled the trigger quickly the PSU went into current limit and the controller in the drill shut off.
@@bigclivedotcom Oof, yeah. I want to make a battery-replacement power supply, either from a larger battery bank or an AC adapter, but that's a lot of amps for an AC adapter... Or any other DC regulator, for that matter.
I wonder if 24V of SLA would fry anything.
The screws inside the drill chuck open counterclockwise. Just in case you have not tried that