Installing an AFDD Consumer Unit in a Garden Shed - Electrician Life
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- Installing an AFDD Consumer Unit in a Garden Shed - Electrician Life.
Join me as I install Arc Fault Detection Devices for the first time, running in a new power supply for a wooden structure in a Garden, using AFDD's to protect all the valuable stuff inside! Bit of PVC conduit work in here too and some nice laser action!
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There has been a few comments about if the customer was concerned about his archive, he wouldn't be storing it in a wooden building, these building are treated with a fire retardant chemical to comply with uk building regs , any wooden building in the UK that is design to accommodate people must be treated we a fire retardant chemicals . So when you do any electrical you must bare that in mind and treat any bare surfaces you create
What bit holder did you use on this video ?
Armeg extension bit
The reason its called cement is due to its dynamic properties, the way a glue works is the glue becomes the bonding material where its sticks 2 materials together, however a cement bonds the materials together by fusing the plastic together like you would with welding metal together
27:00I s cement, not glue. Cements react with surfaces, so the two parts become one. (Plastics are dissolved and essentially weld together.) Glues only adhere to surfaces and hold the two parts together.
I'd recommend an RN+R2 test as well as R1+R2 for AFDDs as a loose connection on the neutral will trip the device just as easily as a loose connection on the line. If both numbers check out the same, then that proves no loose connections... as far as such things can be proven, as one result validates the other. The disco lights on these Wylex models will flash away until you push the test button again at which point the indicator will reset back to red; the device will only trip from the test button if pushed while the indicator is red. Considering these things are supposedly to be mandated a year from now, few manufacturers seem to have products ready to market and pricing remains prohibitive. We'll watch this space I guess.
To me these things are just a very expensive solution to a problem that exists considerably more frequently in the minds of the people that stand to profit from them than it does in the real world.
Thanks that’s great info David! I was hoping they would stop flashing by themselves and I didn’t even realise they had a test button LOL
@@artisanelectrics Yeah, it's not terribly obvious on these models, but it's below the toggle (it's the flashing indicator itself) and it's one of those that as you press it, it causes the toggle to whip down onto your nail!
@@dsesuk Ah,. designed by ... the same people who make John Lewis light fittings?
I share your interest in waiting to see what is going to happen if/when they become mandatory, re pricing
Fully concur with David here on the Rn+R2 testing it’s a nice little check. Though if neutral is not properly connected I doubt you would be able to get the AFDD to move from the tripped position in the first place.
It’s also what I do in the US with regards to testing but we also have testers that can help. There is a lot of research going into this to continually refine them. If I was in the UK and the wiring in my home was more than 40years old AFDDs could really add to safety if you were not interested in rewiring. At more than 40 years old wiring I may be really thinking about rewiring it anyway if testing has shown deterioration over time.
We have the additional issue here in the USA that we often fit combination RCD/AFDDs downstream in the radial/branch circuits as well - a kind of belt and braces approach. So there will be tripping at both the consumer unit and the downstream device. For us the prices have come down significantly so the cost is not really an issue if you have a large house with a lot of varying loads and assets tied up in it then AFDDs could further add to safety. Insurers should be providing discounts for this on the home insurance which would increase their adoption.
Latest generation of panels here in the USA we have click-on breakers including combination GFCI/AFCI and WiFi connected to allow remote monitoring circuit by circuit and all connections on the large busbar itself getting rid of those horrible pigtails - leading to cleaner and faster install with more space left over to allow improved air circulation improving heat management.
Yes! - this is where i'd store all my precious, irreplaceable things that are delicate and sensitive to moisture.....in a single skin, uninsulated flammable wooden structure, with glass windows so everyone can see what's inside and can easily break in if they need to. But just in case the one in a million chance of a normal consumer unit going up in flames from the very small load that will be put on it....i'll spend a small fortune on some AFDD's!.....i'm glad i got my priorities straight :)
Just a small tip, when I’m setting up my cable drums on the stand I alternate each cable reel, ie I roll one off the top, next one from the bottom, next one from the top and so on, this causes some friction between each reel and keeps the cables from tangling.
Alternative to a fishtape - tie an M8 nut to a length of thin string, and use a strong magnet from outside the conduit to pull it along.
That's a good one. I've seen people tape a freezer bag over the end of the cable and then use the hoover to suck it through! :)
@@havoctrousers I've seen vacuum truck do that as well..
@@havoctrousers yeah good tip for larger gauge stuff :D
Have done that with floorboards when there's a joist next to the wall and a tiny gap...
I always used a plastic carrier bag tied to a thick blue string and blown through ducting using compressed air when working on street lights and traffic signals on the road...
I'd have run the armoured cable to the right of the shed and in from the side over the concrete base so it was out of the way, it looked to me like you had enough length to do that.
Would have been even better if they'd had the landscaping guys who did the trench dig under the slab a foot or so, then the SWA could have come up directly inside the shed. Probably would have taken them an extra 10 mins with a grafting spade.
@@DEADB33F Where do I buy the hindsight tool?
So many ways to do this job and no doubt we would probably all have done it differently and non of us would be wrong.
I always put the fish tape through the conduit first. Tie onto the end you pushed through and pull the fish tape back. That way you don't need the whole fish tape and it's less likely to tangle itself up.
When I was trained, (this might be local to me) a fish tape was the metal one... the thing Jordan had was called a drawtape. Mouse is indeed colloquial
As you are open to suggestions and discovered that adjustable spanners do not make a mess of SWA glands, you could go one better and just use the right size spanners.😉
Btw - after such a beautiful trenching job, to bring the end of the supply cable over the top of the slab beside the door was a bit of a let down.
From a consumer perspective, any devices that protect a circuit (and those things associated with it) are very worthwhile. I would also add that any devices that help an electrician locate a problem in the shortest possible 'on site' time, also save the client money, and the electrician 'grief'. Recently had a problem in our house in Denmark, and because we had a radial wiring circuit, RCDs, and a small number of devices per circuit, he found the problem in under 5 minutes, fixed it in an hour, and got a contract to create a new installation for our garden (yes another radial circuit from the consumer board, properly protected). I am most impressed when professionals 'build in' future 'value' to their work.
Remember the burnt-down board replacement you did a while a go? That fire/arcing most likely started at the mains switch, if I remember well (according to Clive's diagnostics..). An AFDD on the downstream circuits does little to protect from arcing on the mains switch... So in this case, by design, it probably makes more sense to put an AFDD circuit breaker in the uplink so it protects the SWA and mains switch as well. That way you achieve full AFDD protection for the complete electrical circuit running into the shed/chalet. Plus it might be an answer to your concerns about any excess mechanical stress on the SWA crossing the small pavement directly outside the shed.
Much appreciate the amount of thought you're putting into addressing customer concerns using modern technology. They set a good bar for both newcomers as well as seniors in the trade.
We have a couple of social housing clients who spec Crabtree and Wylex SPD boards with AFDDs on all socket circuits. Costs are VERY high, especially in the small care homes with maybe 15 circuits in a 6 bed house but it does feel nice to be fitting something that's top notch, rather than some other clients who still refuse to pay for SPDs or even RCBOs! If you don't reset them they just stay in the yellow flash mode. I revisited a property after a few days where I'd left them flashing out of interest as I knew I had to revisit due to a stock shortage on the day of the install and they were still flashing away.
Lovely work, sir. Great to see as much as possible on AFDD’s before they’re more prevalent. Bloody stupid story though... most treasured possessions exposed to light and heat in a single skin timber building away from the house which could be accessed with a screwdriver. Just weird.
Nice work by you and your team :)
Maybe a good idea to drill a pilot hole from the inside in the future projects and then drill from both sides through the wall & let the holes meet in the middle, with the Bosch-bit, to avoid blow-out on either of the sides of the wall 😉
Knipex "pliers wrench" (86 series) are such an improvement over adjustable spanners.
Get a couple of different sizes and see how you get on.
Men, as retired from the trade, (57 double slipped discs, too many Armours pulled in, lol), Great content, and bringing me up to speed with the 18 Edition Regs. Many thanks.
At college, we got shown how to null the plug on test leads with a 2p piece sat between all 3 pins. Cheapest bit of test kit I owned.
Or the nearest clean pipe is a good option to
We have Arc-fault plug in testers in the US, that plug in to receptacles(sockets). They have push buttons to test the AFCI's. They are similar to our plug in GFCI Testers. Ideal Electric makes one. I am sure Klein probably makes one also. Great Video, Jordan. Thanks, Russ from Oregon.
Wow no shit. That's cool to know I have the GFCI tester from Klein now I'm gonna have to get the afcj tester they have. Didn't even know that's dope tbh. Greetings from the eastern side of Oregon my self.
Would love to know how it's actually testing that. As far as I'm aware of that's the only tester. and it's not required by code to Test right?
After the trouble John Wards and David savory went through to test AFDDs. I can't imagine our testers are doing much more than injecting some sort of trigger pulse. Which is slightly warring seeing how the whole standard was written into the code via one company wanting to push it's product.
It just seems like a expensive way to maybe detect faulty workmanship and caused false triggering.
The term mouse comes from a joiners tool for pulling sash chords through on sash windows , used to be a small round piece of lead with a small string attached looked like a mouse still have a few in my tool kit
Yep I did my time with an old spark. Have a roll of luminous builders twine. Always save a bit lead cable from a. Rewire for the weights on the end. I'm Scottish so it's called a moose
Cool thanks for sharing!
When I was taught to shoot, the weighted end of the draw string to pull the gun cleaning cloth through the barrel was called a 'mouse' as it 'went down the hole, and reappeared at the other end'...
In the US all outlets inside of a dwelling must be fitted with either a arc fault circuit interrupter or a combination arc fault ground fault circuit interrupter.
Also in the US there are testers that are made and do actually simulate a arc fault tripping the breaker. Klein makes one but I’m not sure if they make one for the UK market the one in the US is. Klein RT-310
Nice to see you using singles in the conduit. . . You may have to think about using metal white saddles ...I fitted some AFDD last year in an outside wooden horse stable. And the fire risk as Well . Installed in conduit with metal saddles .. 👍👍👍
Nice
I would have thought if your prime concern was fire, then metal conduit is the way to go, maybe even FP or MICC.
Hi Nick,great tutorials mate, keep it up. It’s cement not glue as it actually “melts the plastic conduit causing fusion” Remember Airfix model glue? 🤔
Hope this helps 😎
For glancing a swa cable highly recommend knipex pliers wrench. You can do it as quickly as you do with cobra grips but without tearing up the brass gland 😁
Absolutely second this, those knipex pliers wrench tools are essential when working with SWA
I was waiting for you to realise the main switch, although can go anywhere, is made for the left side as the neutral link cable isn’t quite long enough for the right side and would only do it on a replacement when restricted. Nice install guys.
I am wondering why the decision was made to have two circuits instead of the one when using such an expensive device? Doesn’t look like there would be much demand. Using 4.0mm on a 20A would still be far cheaper if there was. Would’ve made more sense if providing a lighting circuit
I didn’t see a earth being fitted to the socket back boxes - are they not needed on metal clad sockets?
A half-size shipping container might have been better. Painted in intumescent paint, insulated and sealed. Also well earthed (good for lightning protection). Steel Dexion shelving on the inside, no need to drill holes. When the gentleman passes away, his family can put the container on a truck bed for moving to another address. Simples!! Just an idea. BTW AFDD will become industry standard very soon. Look forward to the false alarms..
It could be faced in timber with rockwool insulation between the steel and the timber....perfect
Adjustable spanners should only be used to measure the size of the nut so that you can get the correct size ring and open end. Thats the engineer in me talking.
Haha thanks
I do a lot of conduit work and I've never glued any of it. As long as you're fixing your conduit boxes and accessories to a surface I've never found it to be necessary as they hold everything in place. I also tend to assemble the conduit around the cables rather than completely assembling the conduit and then pulling the cables in. I know there's a reg about fully assembling conduit in the fabric of a building, but it doesn't apply for surface mount and I think it makes life easier. Very nice job, really like that green laser.
8:11 just realised, that is a beast of a box for a 2 way... I was expecting a little smaller like you see in efixx/ghs videos where they have the tiny CU in the corner
Yeah, considering the board feeds one circuit with a single mod device, that 8 way board or whatever it is looks like overkill. Is it the smallest starbreaker board Crabtree do or something?
As a fellow electrician from Norway. We do the pipes inside the wall and cable outside the wall.
And Cable pulling tape RUNPO 1 is much better.
For glanding I use knipex 86 03 250 wrench pliers and a slim jaw bahco spanner along with a ck armour slice in smaller armoured cables find its a very efficient set up 🙂
I think it's called cement as it dissolves the material it's sticking
Yep, fuses the surfaces rather than adhering them together.
Yep, turns them into one piece basically instead of the joint being pvc, a layer of glue and then pvc. Instead its pvc throughout the joint
Nice thanks
14:22 I'm here just for the music.🤩
In addition to the solvents, they usually contain 10-15% dissolved PVC, and I’ve also seen fumed silica listed as an ingredient (as a thickener, presumably also provides some reinforcement after setting, similar to glass fibre in injection moulded parts).
As I posted on the eefix channel regarding the AFDD that there needs to be a standardization of the indicators across makes so that just as traffic lights we all know what is going on.
A standard way to reliably test and quantify their operation would help as well but who's going to define the standard "test arc" and how will it be generated?
Now that's just crazy talk, standardisation on these products in the electrical industry, it's far more entertaining to create a system of confusion for installer and end user 😂😂👍
He’s still got that junior hacksaw 😃
LOL
The Bosch speed spade bits are absolute beasts, I love them.
I have a 3mm nylon snake that pulls out of a plastic housing then pushes buck in. Very neat and no tangles
So now it is not just David calling it Bundy Bendy. Amazing how one video managed to make Nick so famous
I’m not sure it was one video. He was always using the stuff 😂.
Bundy bendy 😂😂😂😂 gotta love Savery
@@JacobKelly02 LOL
Famous or infamous 🤔
As I understand it the conduit cement actually slightly dissolves the PVC so that once the joint dries a bit you actually have solid PVC all the way through.
I'm a little bit disappointed that you didn't use the extra long drill this time to avoid this rather unpleasant cable way on top of the foundation plate.
With the cost of those AFDD's, did it really need 2 radials or would one have been sufficient?
Of course one would be sufficient. France for example allows 8 sockets on one 2.5 mm2 radial, they used to allow 12, other countries have no limits at all.
For SWA glands I use the Knipex Pliers wrench 86 03 250 the have a parrallel Jaw. They look similar to a pipe wrench but they wont mar the brass. They are considerably faster than a adjustable wrench to use. I have used them for years installing glands for hazardous areas, the 200mm and 250mm will work all the way down to 20s16 CMP glands.
Must be 10 years with my Knipex Pliers, they will grip a gland nut leaving your other hand free to wield a spanner in my experience they will also undo seized brass fittings that even spanners will fail on, these things are a well kept secret, not cheap but bullet proof.
The Crabtree AFDDs are £155 each on CEF. You could buy a fusebox board and all the RCBOs you'd need for a job for that!
I head in they might update our regs and make afdd s mandatory , if that goes they should become about 30£ each or less due to demand
I don’t think Fuseboard do AFDD’s do they?
Are Fuseboard still using the ole RCBO’s with earth lead?
@@zjzozn no, these days they're type A single mod mini-RCBOs with no functional earth.
@@havoctrousers functional earth I was told is inside the actual breaker and it connects when you clip it on the board
@@cocoino2307 could be if they make an earth connection through the rail/enclosure. I did one the other day, there's definitely only the neutral tail to connect.
Proper job mate! I'm surprised that considering you've done basically everything spot on, that you used a BW gland instead of CW. I know its extremely unlikely that water would get inside the SWA but, over many years its a chance all the same, same reason for installing AFDD's. Also I'd have looped the SWA up and down glanded to the top of the consumer unit, so there's no chance of any damp/condensation being able to slowly run down inside the SWA cable. Just knit-picky stuff!
That 'cement' for conduit is actually a solvent cement and it actually melts the conduit surfaces together... it melt within no time at all, just a few seconds even . It's virtually the same as Airfix cement used for plastic models.
Bosch drill bits are brilliant. Great value for money
Very true
Did you not consider putting a smoke alarm in there too?
No fly lead to the metal back box? (Best practice and raising standards)
It would’ve been better to put the metal blanks between the AFDD’s to allow for heat dissipation as they run slightly warm. I think the e5 Group did a video showing this?
Metal blanks are bullshit anyway in my opinion
Not sure they’ll hear the smoke alarm from the house 😬
I like the way you twist the wire ends
Another little tip for you : When boring holes through wood, use your impact driver instead of the drill. Especially important for bigger diameter holes in joists. It eliminates the kick-back torque from trying to break your wrist. Armeg Beaver cutters are designed to go in impact drivers.
A year on, what's the life of those Beavers like? Longer easier than Bosch Spades?
@@JSPhi11ips That depends on how many bits of metal you accidentally hit on your way though 😂
But at least my wrists are still intact. I still have the same set, but then I only use them infrequently. One thing to be aware of is that once you get them started they have a life of their own. They will bore through dragging your impact behind them. If you pull back hard to stop them, they can be a bit difficult to restart because the pilot screw will not grip until it is pushed in to fresh timber 10mm or so.
The RED BEAVER Bits are Belters, as they will cut through metal whilst cutting the size hole you want too. The "cement" melts the conduit to cure the 2 bonded pieces as one making an IP68 Joint
I know you like gadgets that help make life easier... If you do more than the odd SWA cable install, then I can recommend the Kewtechnik WSBR28 SWA cable stripper. (other makes are available).
It saves a lot of time & is simple to operate.
It works a little like a plumbers tube cutter, & not only strips the sheath, but also scores the armouring to just the correct depth. I've had one for ten years now, & it's proved very useful., no more messing around with a hacksaw!
We use the CK armour slice tool usually
Near the end you say about "testing for an arc fault" I can only assume the arc fault only happens in time when the screws start to loosen which at time of installation can't be tested unless you've purposely not tightened the screws to the correct torque, which would cause an arc to happen
I think Jordan needs a longer drill bit extension on that drill 🙈🙈😅 love the videos lads great work as always 👍🏻
I use both those Bosch Expert flat wood bits and that those Makita drills, great choices sir! 😎
Love the channel Jordan ... best comment of the year “Someone might stand on the SWA and wear it out 😂”
Classic
Isn't that what the steel is for?
We call them AFCI’s in the U.S. I do have a video of me bench testing an AFCI by simulating a series arc with a motor load. I tried two different manufactures and could never get them to trip. I was a little skeptical of the protection they claimed to offer.
Yes John Ward did a video testing them and had difficulty getting them to trip even with some pretty serious arcing going on. Not sure theyre worth the money
14:55 You know these Cambridge guys! 🤣😎
On using the adjustable spanners, there is a right way to use them.
Don’t pull against the adjustable jaw, always pull against the fixed. 😊
here in the USA we use different verbiage... I don't yet know the UK words for these...: we have Ground Fault -- normally for Wet locations; and Arc Fault -- normally for bed rooms. and now Tamper Resistant plugs-- similar to the UK type. new entries require Surge Suppression. and now a four wire standard for 120/240- volt getup's (red, black, white, green/bare wires). there is a glut of resources relative to our USA's National Electric Code out there. happy reading !!!
Here in USA usually what I do is push the test button and put a load 80% of the AFDD for a few minutes
“Store all our most precious stuff in a secure, warm, dry, insulated house? Na.. I’ve got a much better idea...”🤦♂️
I'm a American electrian I would love to come over and work with you guys for a week to see the defference between are worlds . that would be a good episode lol just saying
When taking cable over a concrete plynth like that I usually drill down through it and then put a spare drill bit in the hole. Then I drill underneath the plynth until I hit my spare drill bit and then poke some spare cable down the hole and fish it under the plynth and tape on to pull through. It takes a bit longer but works a treat 👍
Nice plug for Amazon 😂
Note that box on the shelf
Another great video thank you
Thanks!
I know this is an older video, but at 10:12 why not bring the armored cable up around the corner behind the wood, to just below the fuse box, then drill a hole in the wooden side wall so that the cable at a 90° angle enters the bottom of the fuse box?
This has several advantages :
1) The cable is not visible from the outside when you stand in front of the garden shed (or you have to look behind the wooden corner).
2) On the inside of the shed, the armored cable is much less visible
3) You don't have to drill through 2 shelves
4) When the door swings fully open, the bottom can't pinch against the armored cable.
Grtz from Belgium.
I would have thought that a wooden shed is more likely to get damaged than his house. The "precious" items are more likely to be damaged by damp and extremes of temperature in a shed. At the end of the day, the client needs to be happy and if he feels that a shed does the job, so be it.
Yeah the walls are quite thick and he will have heaters in there
@@artisanelectrics The running costs of keeping the draughty, uninsulated shed warm would be very high.
Those were my thoughts as well. I'd have kicked one of the kids out of a bedroom and used that instead. The kid could have had the shed.
@@billdoodson4232 if the owner was 97, his kids could be in their late 70s🤔🤔🤔
With regards to your Fluke 13a socket test cable, 0.45 ohms is definitely high. I use Fluke and mine is 0.13 ohms. This is the combined resistance of all three wires. It might be worth testing the resistance of all three wires individually. It might even be caused by a loose fuse carrier. I periodically test the resistance of all my test leads and adaptors and keep a record. It's then easier to spot if one of them is declining.
Yeah good shout
Fish tape tip store it in an off cut of buddy flexi con .
White metal saddles for premature collapse ?
Use some cable lube to make pulling in cables easier , prevents chaffing
What about if the supply cable going to the shed arcs and causes a fire?
If my plumbing knowledge serves me correct, glue will does as it says glue two surfaces together, solvent weld or cement as your using melts and bonds the joint to the pipe, thats why you have a small amount of time to get any angles correct best to also twist the join back and forth to make sure the cement is fully around the joint allowing a water tight seal, yes I said water tight maybe in a that kind of building a moisture tight seal.
I always pull a fish tape or string while building the conduit runs especially if it is a long underground run 😁
Rocking the Veto bag Jordan
41:25 Well the best way to test it, is flip it on and see if it goes bang or trips. Otherwise press the test button and make sure it trips, if so your test is complete. No EICR type testing here. Because almost all breakers are AFCI's and many are also GFCI's or combo's now, just a single test button.
I enjoyed the comparison of a glued vs. non-glued conduit. I've often lay awake at night wondering what happens when you glue two things together.
Cement is a chemical reaction that "melts" the materials together so they are effectively one piece. Glue joins two materials but there are still 3 pieces (plastic, glue, plastic).
Back in the day MK was considered the gold standard for switches/sockets etc but then they changed the design and for me the sockets are quite bad now, the screws are almost off centre when putting the driver in and a pig to get tight. My personal choice would be the Hagar range as the terminals are more than adequate for 2*4mm cables, as we are going more and more radial based for installations these would be my choice.
I think a wooden structure in the garden would the absolute last place I’d store my precious items but there you are.
9:38 Oooh you can't beat a bit of "Bendy Bundy" 😎
Interesting fact. Both my nan and my step nan worked at the workers cafe at crabtree when it was at its original base in walsall which is 2 miles from me
I like the term pvc coupler than coupling. Sounds better.
No fire detection?
Jordan, the thing between your knees was the drill, the items in your hand are drill bits!
That cable roller could be improves by adding short, off cuts ( or larger radius 90degree elbow’s) of conduit on one bottom horizontal. Feed the cable through from the reels. The reels also need some sort of frictional restraint to stop them fee wheeling and unwinding uncontrollably.
Please do a review of the fluke 1664fc and it’s features.
my OCD would avoid the 1.5m regs and put the clips inline with the roof rafters - nice job and good info on the AFDD - I doubt if they would ever come to be in use in Malaysia :)
If it's that precious and important to them, it should all be digitised and then put into a monitored self-storage unit that has automated environmental control and fire suppression.
Nice work with the AFFD. But why would you store precious materials in a wooden shed though? 🤦♂️
Because they have cancer
Have they not heard of damp conditions
tool recommendation: knipex pliers wrench 86 05 150
You could of put 90 degrees around the corner of the base of the shed and went in side entry
Bahco make some quality tools, used them for over 25 years. good choice.
Yep!
I always enjoy the consumer unit change videos
Drag Race fellas, has to be done, my big worry with the afdd's is two fold one price and the other reliability both should be sorted in time but still a worry, where do you source your good gromit strip I got mine from Rexel but they don't seem to stock anymore, always hand to have one reel in the van
Just a tip...put a squeez of soap where singles and fish tape are joined ,each end....it will slide like a sled
Don’t know if it’s available in the uk, but we use a galvanised hat section here in Australia to offer some mechanical protection instead of flexible conduit. Virtually indestructible and looks neat too. Only real draw back is that it can be a trip hazard. Here in Aus. It’s available in 20 x20mm, 25x25mm 32x32mm right up to 100x100mm and probably beyond. Perfect for your situation where your cable comes out of the ground and on top of the concrete.
It certainly exists in the UK, BT openreach use it when running telecomunications cabling up walls and poles from underground ducts.
Ah yeah I know what you mean nice idea
Yeah in US rigid conduit of some kind would be required; you can't run cable unprotected outdoors nor in any indoor living space for permanent installation. Service drops must be around 15-20ft / 4-5m above the ground as well.
Anyone could hit that cable with a weed eater, lawn mower, or just some kids screwing around. I'm surprised the UK code allows that. I've seen similar in other videos - one was installing 30 car chargers in a parking garage and it was fed by an outdoor rated cable with cable hangers along the building main entrance path which is just insane.
On certain project works if you scratch a gland with the teeth on a spanner they’ll make you strip back and do it again
That makes no sense. The cable has already being striped back and glanded to size. Surly striping back more will make the cable to short
@@roydowling2542 when I said stripped back I meant cut off and start again
@@JohnCanty93 8
hmmm if the contents of that shed are that precious then the customer would not be storing the only copy of them in a shed; they would be stored offsite at a location that isn't flammable, with fire suppression. If that is already in place and these are "copys" AFDD seems a bit overkill for the shed. I know watched the vid where David did a AFDD CU and it was like £1300 which is bonkers.
Some rubber tubing on the tube through the cable reels might provide enough friction to control the unwinding.
I really don't get this install.
Two socket circuits in a storage shed seems like massive overkill and installing arc fault protection but relying on portable lamps for lighting seems like rather screwed up priorities in terms of reducing fire risks..
The sockets are mainly for heaters to keep the place dry
Using literally the least suitable place on the property for the „archives“ 🤷♂️… it goes downhill from there…
Lovely job. But isn't using a 10.00 mm, CSA, SWA a bit of an overkill here? How did you arrive at your design current for the installation? Assuming your cable run wasn't extreme, VD not being a major problem, wouldn't a 4.00 mm SWA have been more than adequate and cheaper - considering you are feeding two 16 A radials only? To my knowledge the 10.00 mm SWA you installed has a current carrying capacity of 71 A, Ref Method D, (Table 4E4A, BS7671). You are only supplying a few socket outlets - so it seems like it's a bit of over-engineering. I would be interested to know your thoughts - many thanks. But really neat and tidy job, all the same. As an aside, did you at any point consider making the shed installation in to a TT System (earth electrode)? With it being a TNCS System at the origin of supply and the risks associated with exporting a PME earth to an outbuilding having to be considered by the designer. Just wondered what your thoughts were on this option?
I think AFDDs have been invented for US houses that have dodgy old aluminium wiring. They do make sense in irreplaceable buildings though. For most of us it's going to be better saving the cash for another periodic inspection.
With you on the Bosh bits they are head and shoulders above any other. The armeg ones are good but don't last at all.
Yeah glad you agree
Nice job with the conduit install Jordan...
A design decision I'd like to question. The annex will have it's own meter for invoicing, makes sense if it is going to rented out. But the primary buildings "shed" is off that meter. Do you think that is fair, or should it not be on the meter?