My tank was O.K. but was full of water and debris. What I did was get out my Jigsaw and cut a slot where the rear fender meets the lower foot pedal area where yours was creased. It allowed me to bend the rear section up to remove the fuel tank for cleaning. Many thanks for the video that gave me the idea on how to fix my problem.
Hi have a L111 John Deere but don’t know the year, it’s like an early 90’s bc it has fiberglass hood, parking brake & brake on the left side & is hydrostatic. I really don’t wanna have to remove the tank to clean the crap & old fuel out of it. Didn’t realized there was so many issues with tanks leaking over time, especially at the seams. Two causes for that, 1, the fuel of today with the ethanol in it is bad for plastics & rubber hoses & 2, John Deere. Sourcing these types of products being mad in China with cheaper quality materials.
Great job and and way ...I also took 4 1/2 angle grinder with cuttin blade..and cut out the area with the giant key holes and across (about 1 in)to get more clearance......Kind of a U area or top half of H...Gave me more room and no bend in floor pan...
I've had my L110 for 20 years now. It's the 1st time my gas tank is leaking. Actually it's the 1st time I have had to replace anything on it, besides the front tires twice. So at this point I could care less if the back bends. I just don't want to spend over $3,000.00 just to replace the gas tank. Thanks great video
My local repair shop wanted $900 for new gas tank, new ignition switch and new rear tires. Local tire place came to my house and replaced tires for $150. I bought the ignition switch for $30 and replaced it. And now with help of this video , i will do the tank. Its an la105 bought 2008 (?) .
Probably age. By the time these were updated it had already been 10 years when the plastic seams broke down at that point due to age. They had no way to know that would happen. They were fine new.
Because it will roll forward and even with both front wheels chalked the steering still can move and shift the ass end of the machine. I found it to be easier to just jack up the front end
Removed my leaky tank today and am waiting for the new one to arrive. I don't have ramps so I took off the hood and drove it up again the brick wall of my garage. Worked well.
Just came across this site, Hank. My comment has nothing to do with this video, so pardon me for asking here. My 6.75 HP Craftsmen push mower sounds like I have it set on low throttle, but other than the governor spring, there is no throttle adjustments. I've checked all the usual suspects (carb, spark plug, gas line, filter, even the flywheel key), and they seem to be fine. I came across another video talking about the ignition coil causing problems, but no one says that would cause my problem, they say if the coil was bad, the mower wouldn't start at all. The resistance on my coil is over 6, and the B&S site I went to said the coil is bad if not between the range of 2.5 and 5.0. The mower had been running fine one day, then the next day it sounded like it was puttering. It runs, but obviously not where it should be. Do you think the coil could be causing this? If you have a video dedicated to this problem, please link me to it. Thanks.
What do you mean by you checked the carb? It sounds like it needs to be cleaned out. As far as the coil when I have seen them fail they usually will work fine cold and when warmed up they will not send a spark. It is also possible the autochoke vane connected to the exhaust is wearing out as well. You may want to check that if it is autochoke
@@hanksgarage_ - I mean I checked the carb and it looked clean, but I went ahead and thoroughly cleaned it again, and there was ZERO change in performance. I checked the air vane as well, and it is operating as it was before all this started happening, the springs are fine and it opens and closes fine. Are you aware of the coil range I mentioned, 2.5 to 5.0, or is that something you've never encountered?
@@hanksgarage_ - Here are some links I found about ignition coils that make me wonder if this is my problem: pushmowerrepair.com.au/briggs-and-stratton-ignition-coil-testing/ sites.google.com/site/riversidelawnmowerrepair/home/how-does-lawn-mower-magneto-or-ignition-coil-work
I'm glad that my L100 hasn't developed this issue yet, of course it's completely full of old gas though. I've got to get it wired, someone took the battery cables and the solenoid off, wish I could find a good used OEM set. I've also got a Kohler Courage Troy Bilt that needs the engine rebuilt, and a Sabre that needs a flywheel. Might keep the Sabre, am keeping the L100, wanna burn the Troy-Bilt.
The original tank on my LA145 cracked in several places due to UV -- the seams look fine. On top, around the cap, and near the hole where the wire for the seat interlock goes, and on the back -- where there's an exposed area of the tank between the green decking and the black "shroud" around the tank. Should have painted the tank when I bought the mower. Or covered it when not in use -- I store it under the carport, but it still gets some mid-afternoon sun. Experimenting with an epoxy/fiberglass repair. If that doesn't work, I'll break out the hot glue gun -- I hate the idea of paying JD $130 for glorified milk jug that doesn't fit very well. If the glue gun doesn't work either, I'll just strap on a Craftsman tank (can't fit any worse, and it's about $100 cheaper), or drop a siphon tube in a $20 gas can.
Unbelievable that JD wants $200 for a blow formed piece of plastic, and some brackets that wouldn't be necessary if they just made a direct fit replacement. Upon further review, I am leaning towards just strapping a 2 gal gas tank to the hood. :-)
Happened to me recently... it's not difficult to do this without creasing the body, though. A different video (ua-cam.com/video/k5tnHXYY9ag/v-deo.html) explains how. The hardest part was getting the warped-and-wedged-in old fuel tank out of there. Raising the body without creasing was the easy part.
My tank was O.K. but was full of water and debris. What I did was get out my Jigsaw and cut a slot where the rear fender meets the lower foot pedal area where yours was creased. It allowed me to bend the rear section up to remove the fuel tank for cleaning. Many thanks for the video that gave me the idea on how to fix my problem.
Thanks for posting this, I've had my L100 for 20 years and the gas tank cracked, I'm replacing it this weekend, great video
Thank you for the video. I replaced my tank today. New one does slide around a lot so will need to get some zip ties like you suggested.
Thanks Hank! This video answered several questions I had about my L110 fuel tank and the replacement tank I have for it.
Thanks for posting this. I did this yesterday and it was very straightforward. My green floor board is metal and there was NO creasing, none.
Hi have a L111 John Deere but don’t know the year, it’s like an early 90’s bc it has fiberglass hood, parking brake & brake on the left side & is hydrostatic.
I really don’t wanna have to remove the tank to clean the crap & old fuel out of it. Didn’t realized there was so many issues with tanks leaking over time, especially at the seams. Two causes for that, 1, the fuel of today with the ethanol in it is bad for plastics & rubber hoses & 2, John Deere. Sourcing these types of products being mad in China with cheaper quality materials.
Yep, I replaced my tank on the L120, however, I pulled the complete column, dash, tower out.. You were right, took several hours!
I changed my gas tank today with the help of this video. Appreciate it.
Great job and and way ...I also took 4 1/2 angle grinder with cuttin blade..and cut out the area with the giant key holes and across (about 1 in)to get more clearance......Kind of a U area or top half of H...Gave me more room and no bend in floor pan...
Changed mine today using this video. Thanks a lot!
Glad it helped!
I've had my L110 for 20 years now. It's the 1st time my gas tank is leaking. Actually it's the 1st time I have had to replace anything on it, besides the front tires twice. So at this point I could care less if the back bends. I just don't want to spend over $3,000.00 just to replace the gas tank. Thanks great video
My local repair shop wanted $900 for new gas tank, new ignition switch and new rear tires. Local tire place came to my house and replaced tires for $150. I bought the ignition switch for $30 and replaced it. And now with help of this video , i will do the tank. Its an la105 bought 2008 (?) .
I have a d105 automatic is the rear pulley acceptable when you pull the tank?
Great video. My L110 has not developed this issue yet but I will be looking out for it.
Thanks..saved me a lot of time.
Great job man👍 the new tank looks like a much better design.
Great video, very helpful. Can you point me to where i can find a replacement tank? Doug
John Deere Original Equipment Fuel Tank #GY21876 amzn.to/3rtgwcI
Great video! Any idea why there wasn’t a recall on something involving leaking gas?
Probably age. By the time these were updated it had already been 10 years when the plastic seams broke down at that point due to age. They had no way to know that would happen. They were fine new.
@@hanksgarage_ Thanks & thanks so much for this great video!
I have an l120 that needs a new tank. I’ll fab something up for free before i spend $125 on a new tank. Unreal. Also, thanks for,the vid. Cool.
I saw ace has plastic gas tank repair kits. Havent done full review, but hoping i can use thst instead buying whole new tank.
2022 my rubber hose is clogged up and water in the gas tank im going to remove and replace the line
Does anyone have the back bracket for sale ?
I love the channel did you happen to end up selling that lawn tractor it looks exactly the same as mine with the same paint chips and everything
Which website you bough the tank?
Green parts store.com
Is that a DX Engineering sticker I see there?
Why is it important to have the front end raised?
Because it will roll forward and even with both front wheels chalked the steering still can move and shift the ass end of the machine. I found it to be easier to just jack up the front end
Removed my leaky tank today and am waiting for the new one to arrive. I don't have ramps so I took off the hood and drove it up again the brick wall of my garage. Worked well.
Just came across this site, Hank. My comment has nothing to do with this video, so pardon me for asking here. My 6.75 HP Craftsmen push mower sounds like I have it set on low throttle, but other than the governor spring, there is no throttle adjustments. I've checked all the usual suspects (carb, spark plug, gas line, filter, even the flywheel key), and they seem to be fine. I came across another video talking about the ignition coil causing problems, but no one says that would cause my problem, they say if the coil was bad, the mower wouldn't start at all. The resistance on my coil is over 6, and the B&S site I went to said the coil is bad if not between the range of 2.5 and 5.0. The mower had been running fine one day, then the next day it sounded like it was puttering. It runs, but obviously not where it should be. Do you think the coil could be causing this? If you have a video dedicated to this problem, please link me to it. Thanks.
What do you mean by you checked the carb? It sounds like it needs to be cleaned out. As far as the coil when I have seen them fail they usually will work fine cold and when warmed up they will not send a spark. It is also possible the autochoke vane connected to the exhaust is wearing out as well. You may want to check that if it is autochoke
@@hanksgarage_ - I mean I checked the carb and it looked clean, but I went ahead and thoroughly cleaned it again, and there was ZERO change in performance. I checked the air vane as well, and it is operating as it was before all this started happening, the springs are fine and it opens and closes fine. Are you aware of the coil range I mentioned, 2.5 to 5.0, or is that something you've never encountered?
@@hanksgarage_ - Here are some links I found about ignition coils that make me wonder if this is my problem:
pushmowerrepair.com.au/briggs-and-stratton-ignition-coil-testing/
sites.google.com/site/riversidelawnmowerrepair/home/how-does-lawn-mower-magneto-or-ignition-coil-work
What kind of design is that where the tank is loose to flop and bounce around? That’s crap.
John Deere’s cost saving universal answer for multiple models I guess.
Hank's Garage that’s lame, you know. You did a good job with what you had to work with.
Where do you find the replacement tanks ?
probably amazon, i seen one on there for $170.74
I'm glad that my L100 hasn't developed this issue yet, of course it's completely full of old gas though. I've got to get it wired, someone took the battery cables and the solenoid off, wish I could find a good used OEM set. I've also got a Kohler Courage Troy Bilt that needs the engine rebuilt, and a Sabre that needs a flywheel. Might keep the Sabre, am keeping the L100, wanna burn the Troy-Bilt.
The old tanks are not supported properly that's why they crack, or is it a poorly made tank .
They seem to have been supported just fine. They are just glue together at that seam and the plastic is not the best quality.
The original tank on my LA145 cracked in several places due to UV -- the seams look fine. On top, around the cap, and near the hole where the wire for the seat interlock goes, and on the back -- where there's an exposed area of the tank between the green decking and the black "shroud" around the tank. Should have painted the tank when I bought the mower. Or covered it when not in use -- I store it under the carport, but it still gets some mid-afternoon sun. Experimenting with an epoxy/fiberglass repair. If that doesn't work, I'll break out the hot glue gun -- I hate the idea of paying JD $130 for glorified milk jug that doesn't fit very well. If the glue gun doesn't work either, I'll just strap on a Craftsman tank (can't fit any worse, and it's about $100 cheaper), or drop a siphon tube in a $20 gas can.
Unbelievable that JD wants $200 for a blow formed piece of plastic, and some brackets that wouldn't be necessary if they just made a direct fit replacement. Upon further review, I am leaning towards just strapping a 2 gal gas tank to the hood. :-)
Me too
Thumbs Up
DX Engineering sticker at around the 8 minute mark, are you a ham???
My dad is
@@hanksgarage_ Way cool, I am too!
Happened to me recently... it's not difficult to do this without creasing the body, though. A different video (ua-cam.com/video/k5tnHXYY9ag/v-deo.html) explains how. The hardest part was getting the warped-and-wedged-in old fuel tank out of there. Raising the body without creasing was the easy part.