DPF Clogged / Blocked - Could It Be The Wrong Engine Oil Or Diesel Fuel? (Diesel Particulate Filter)
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- Опубліковано 20 лют 2020
- In today’s video we have a look at how your choice of diesel fuel, and your choice of engine oil can have a large effect in determining the life of your DPF. Why does this happen? Watch and find out!
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Excellent video Steven, keep them coming they are extremely informative.
Thanks for the tips.
Thank you. Great ASMR!
My new niche...
Hi, is it true that LL04 oil doesn't provide such a good protection to the engine as the ll01 oil? I've read some article which claimed that ll04 is designed to protect the dpf so it doesn't have some esential minerals which are important for the engine. Can you elaborate more on that please? There is also another thing which bothers me LL04 is low ash oil compared to LL01, so does it mean that LL01 creates more dirt in the engine? I own a bmw 730d e65 2004 218 hp no dpf, I know my owners manual says that ll01 oil is recommended and also ll04 is compatible, but which one should I use? My car has 180.000 km and there comes another dilema what viscosity would be the best? 0w40, 5w30 or 5w40? Sorry for to many questions, anyway you have a new subscriber :)
Hi, thanks for watching! Low ash oils and ultra low ash fuel have caused issues for sure, especially for vehicles made between 2007-2014. They are mostly solved now, but not before causing lots of folk a lot of problems and expense. Doing a search for "Bosch CP4 pump" is pretty scary stuff. As for the oils, hmm, combining 18k mile service intervals along with timing chains that don't appreciate old oil hasn't worked out very well. Most mechanics recommend cutting that service interval at least in half, and maybe into a third for an engine to have a chance at a long life.
MAKE A VIDEO DOES A chip tuning CAR DAMAGE DPF. DO THE RESEARCH, GREAT TOPIC FOR THE NEW DPF VIDEO
Hi, thanks for watching and the great suggestion! If someone doesn't know what they are doing then damage is easily done, but most of the reputable companies tune everything right up to a safe temperature limit for the DPF.
I have an x5 35d and I put 5w-30 as recommended , came up short so went to the store all they had was 10w-30 for diesel, wondering if that would cause a dpf clog? Diesel oil just different viscosity
Hi, thanks for watching! The viscosity of the oil isn't related to the other standards that the oil needs to meet to be right for your vehicle. The viscosity is the thickness, and is important for getting an oil that will flow well in cold weather when you are starting in the morning, but also not fall apart or evaporate when the engine is hot - so adding a bit of 10w30 to your 5w30 will turn it into 7w30 perhaps, which is only a problem if the temperature is below freezing often. The important thing to look out for when you have a DPF is to make sure that the oil is LL04, which means that it is low in SAPS, which is the ash that will block up your DPF a lot sooner.
Hi steven im so happy that you are coming to my birthday party from Tristan
Super!
Hi Steven
Why the fuel go to oil when Dpf clogged ?
Hi, low quality diesel fuel has some components that won't burn fully, so they end up as ash particles which clog up the filter over time.
I have a DPF P2453 and I scanned it with OBD reader and it says limited mileage remaining.It kicks out ENgine light along with P2004 manifold code. The car drivers fine with averaging mpg about 40-50mpg. WHat does this limited mileage reming on DPF? The mileage is 130k on the car
Hi, cars built before 2010 are more likely to have some kind of count-down timer to determine when the DPF is full of ash, and needs to be replaced (or cleaned). There is probably some kind of service menu on your car where you can reset this, regardless of whether you have replaced/cleaned the filter or not. Later cars have 2 pressure sensors to help estimate ash buildup more accurately, so they don't need to be reset. However, a P2453 is a sensor error (not some kind of countdown warning), and it may not be related to the P2004 error, so both need to be investigated and corrected. One or both errors will be causing problems for your DPF active regeneration, so you DPF will become blocked up with ash in a short time.
@@StevenBTuner Thanks for the response, Steve! I cleaned air intake manifold and replaced swirl flaps also change the glow plugs. I used OBD reader to clean the codes. However the P2004 andP2453 DPF came back. I also noticed there was a code that said “ EGR Cooler bypass flap, activation: Open circuit “.
There is also an open recall on the bmw 328d about EGR cooler. Does the defective EGR cooler clog up DPF? is it possible that DPF failure caused by shut-open EGR cooler?
@@youtubeuser2322 Hi, sounds like you're getting everything sorted out step by step! A working EGR system is vital to DPF active regeneration, so it is a good idea to get that fixed under the BMW recall, or to investigate and fix it yourself if it is less hassle.
hello steve i own a e60 520d m47tud2
just cleaned the dpf with jet wash and removed the nasty swirlflaps . what a diffirence i must say transformed my car completely thanks for the tips.now my question i use febi bilstein longlife plus.
5w30 bmw longlife4 . whats your advise i mean what oil do you preffer for this engine . i think its good oil causse engine purrs like a cat .
srr forgot engine has 90000km and is serviced every 10000km
Hi, well done on getting your E60 running well! LL04 is the correct type of oil if your BMW has a DPF, and if it doesn't then LL01 is best. The viscosity rating depends on what the temperatures are like where you live - if winter temperatures go a long way below freezing then you will want to an oil that is 0w rather than 5w. If you have hot summers, or if you do a lot of hard driving / high speed driving then it would be better if that second number was 40 rather than 30. So where I live it gets down to -10 degrees Celcius in winter and I do some long motorway driving, so I personally look for a 0w40 oil. If you do a service every 10,000kms then there is no chance that the oil has degraded, which will ensure a very long engine life.
@@StevenBTuner thanks steven unlike other ignorant youtubers you really answer people questions correctly . thanks , you have a follower for life subbed ! Really apreciate this . i learn a lot from your informative videos , you helped me getting hyped about cleaning the dpf, i didn dare at first ,but after carefully listening and watching you clean them dpfs , i just did it . but before that , first diagnosed it causse something caussing this dpf not to regenerate ... i had the glowplug an glowplug unit faults and bad egr thermo that caussed my dpf not to regenerate and building dangerous pressure ,can blow gaskets or leaks and turbo failure . glad i learned that this car needs obd tool .always good to check your car huh ;-) greetings from belgium steven
Hi, I'm glad to help! When cars went 'digital' they started showing warnings for all sorts of non-urgent things - and it drove people crazy. Now it has gone completely the other way and cars won't show you any warning lights even though there is 30% power and the engine is about to stop working - so if you want to keep your car running well it really is necessary to have a good OBDII tool, and plug it in at least every couple of months to see what is going on.
Removing the swirl flaps doesn't make the car go any quicker unless the flaps were not working properly before hand.
When you remove them you lower the airflow going to the turbo. Resulting in slower spooling time. And there'll be no difference when boosting as the flaps would be open anyway. 👍 Get it remapped and it would make a difference in the spooling time and top end.
One common cause of DPF clogging is shutting down the engine immediately after short trips. This cuts off oil circulation and air flow to the turbo, which has less opportunity to cool down, eventually destroying the hydrostatic bearings (essentially just bushings with pressurized oil) inside. These bearings will start leaking oil through the exhaust and this unburnt oil ends up in the DPF, clogging the DPF, causing more back pressure on the turbo and starving the bearings of oil even more, which leads to a problem that snowballs out of control.
Clogged DPF is usually not the root cause of a problem but a symptom of high engine wear or upcoming component failure. If the engine is consuming a lot of oil, it will start causing damage and eventually block the DPF.
Very well said!
My BMW E50 520D N47D20A started to consume oil recently. Never had that issue. Now I have to drive on the motorway more with BimmerLink or ISTA forcing a regen. Even just after regen within 30 mile shoot goes to above 15g. Might be causing by oil burn. How do I stop or reduce that?
@@dukemaximus1639 Check the injector seals, those may be on their way out. As well as the turbo bearing, if that's leaking on the compressor side it will cause oil to get into the combustion chamber.
That's a dangerous situation because failing turbo seals means you risk a runaway.
@@Stoney3K I can see some oil/liquid on top of injectors but they are not excessive and does not increase. All injectors were replaced at 88k by BMW and current mileage is 132k. Turbo was replaced on 104k and not expecting any leakage there. No code on ISTA either besides in winter 480A for the DPF. Oil consumption goes high on high rev, let say when I am driving on the motorways and engine rev usually stays above 2k. Engine oil used is Castrol 15668E EDGE 5W-30 LL and in July 2020.
@@dukemaximus1639 Has to be oil seals somewhere then. When it consumes a lot at high rev (high oil pressure) I'd suspect the head first. Valve stem seals could also be a culprit, as well as crank case ventilation system.
Oh no I put Penrite extra zinc oil in my Land Rover and now I know why my DPF is block once a month
It can certainly be a factor.
What happen if I use wrong oil for 8k km. Using acea a5/b5 instead of acea c3?
Hi, assuming your engine doesn't burn much oil normally, then a short time with an oil that is not DPF/catalyst friendly won't cause instant issues.
@@StevenBTuner Thank you
car is mercedes w203 220cdi 2006 with dpf
my mechanicals put wrong oil half year ago, they give me 5 liters 5w30 mobil1 a5/b5 ford 913-d specs and 1.5 liters of mobil1 5w30 correct mb229.51 C3 oil for dpf
You think in 8k km nothing bad is happened? Car doesn't burn any oil
Car is 260k km and before I always use correct oil
Tommorow I change to correct oil
Hi, an easy mistake to make! I did the same thing with the last oil I bought, and only realized when I was about to start the oil change. With only 8,000kms there won't be that much additional ash build-up, so I wouldn't worry about it.
Run home heating oil , has a higher cetane level.
I'll have to see if I can find some specs on ash content.
Hello again (E81 120d guy),
What more do you know about fuel quality? Because for the past 100.000km I have been putting in the cheapest diesel I can find around the Netherlands, Germany and Switzerland. My engine runs great and is economical. I never have weird issues with it. I do the maintenance myself and I treat her well.
I tend to believe that in the countries listed above, there is no -or very very little - difference in fuel quality. (I don’t know this, but it makes sense to me). I have once read somewhere when I was researching this, that fuel quality differs on a regional level, because all the fuel in a certain region comes from a certain fuel depot, hence there is no difference in quality whether it’s a Shell or a B-brand you’ve never heard of.
I know that in the Netherlands (and most of the EU), everything is very precisely regulated so I can only imagine that fuel needs to have a level of quality for it to be sold. I tend to believe that even if what I stated above is false, this quality level is so good that it also doesn’t matter what you put in.
People tend to be hesitant about this topic, therefore the people I tell this tend to not believe me. I am wondering what your thoughts are.
Kind regards
Hi again :-) , In the middle of Europe you would seriously have to go out of your way to find high-sulfur diesel, and it is not going to be found in a filling station. With your travels, the worst you might expect is the occasional bit of dirt from the bottom tank etc. The video is directed more at folk that live in countries that are less regulated, or that have a higher chance that the cheap diesel might be diluted with kerosene/jet fuel or marine diesel etc.
@@StevenBTuner Thank you very much for your reply :) That makes perfect sense.
@@StevenBTuner Jet-A1 (kerosene) is often of much higher quality than diesel, but its viscosity is much lower, almost that of gasoline, which causes other issues. I think one of the bigger concerns is bio-diesels or fuels which are mixed to some degree with bio-diesel fuels.
Means low sulphur diesel can clogs DPF fast?
Hi, lower quality diesel with a higher sulphur content will create more ash as well as a lot more soot - so worse in every way.
@@StevenBTuner but high quality diesel with low sulphur? is it good?
@@hardiiktrivedi Hi, the low sulphur will mean your DPF will not clog up with ash deposits as quickly. Low sulphur diesel also doesn't create black soot as much either, so your DPF will go longer before each regeneration.
@@StevenBTuner let say my per day running is 8 KM In City How Often I Will Get DPF sign?
@@StevenBTuner And How Many KM should I Driver In High 2000 RPM Or Above? Per Day?