Triumph TR6 Engine Rebuild - Part 2 - Prepping For Assembling
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- Опубліковано 31 лип 2024
- The parts arrived and and it is time to start preparing all the parts for assembling. The head is in the machine shop, but we can finish the bottom end while we wait for it to come back.
If you want to see a more detailed version, I have multiple other engine rebuilds on my channel, but the most recent ones are in these playlists:
• 1975 Triumph TR6 project
• 1974 - Triumph TR6 Res...
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#RustyBeauties #Triumph #TR6 - Авто та транспорт
“Thank You” so much Elin for sharing your incredible Knowledge, Talents & Teaching skills with us!
Most Appreciated Sir!
Great videos…wonderful educations, thanks you !
Your comment about not putting the manifold in your kitchen oven reminded me of what I did many years ago. My father had a 1981 Oldmobile Cutlass which had hubcaps that were made to look like old fashioned wire wheels. These were next to impossible to keep clean and it was always my job to clean the cars. Out of frustration, I took the hubcaps off and ran then through the automatic dishwasher in the kitchen. This did a great job of cleaning the hubcaps but my mother was furious.
LOL
Thank you Elin
Very well presented video, and enjoyable to watch.
As always interesting to read all of the comments. Technology has moved on a lot, in my industry we use necked studs in the critical positions this gives a controlled diameter in order to realise the design calculations and a simple way of determining if the stud is in spec and can be reused in certain conditions. I would hazard a guess that if the pitting is light on the head studs then it will still be way above the root diameter of the thread.
To compare the head studs on my old ford focus were necked and had to be changed after removal. They weren't torqued down as such, after seating down they were tightened through a certain angle. Surface finish, lubrication and other things can adversely affect the clamping force from a specific torque.
Good to see Rusty back after his day off!!
Good luck from Spain!!
PS Thanks for showing the honing of the bores!!
Elin - I know this isn't your first rodeo, but I do suggest you check the hardness of the valve lifter faces. Moss subs these parts out to lowest bidder and there have been instances in the past of them receiving soft face lifters when the vendor did not perform the face hardening correctly. Nothing against Moss (my favorite Brit car parts vendor) as they have no control over this, but a word to the wise. As always, I really enjoy your videos.
Zoom zoom
Cheers !
Cheers 🍻 for all your hard work in making the content for us Elin, much appreciated, all the best from the UK..
Elin, another good video; thanks!
I would never have thought to swap rings from one cylinder to another to get them to fit in-spec. Good trick to avoid filing ring gaps!
I find these videos so instructive. I know the theories, but always come a little unstuck on the actual tactics of how to do stuff, so these are really helpful. Thank you Elin.
Notice that the intake manifold is off the later engine and does not, port wise match up with the earlier head.
I would never have the nerve to chase those threads with a drill. I was so nervous about that I got some thread chasers. They weren't expensive and they're almost cross-proof. But im cross-threading prone!
Elin I really enjoy your engine build videos. The TR4 ones I’ve watched several times! They’re informative and somehow relaxing at the same time!👍
I don't like my TR4 engine series. I wasn't good at filming, explaining and even rebuilding :) I overcomplicated stuff in that series. I am expecting a TR4 engine rebuild in the fall and I will film it better this time.
@@RustyBeauties I thought it was just the right amount of detail in just the right places - all the 'between the cracks' information the manual should provide but doesn't...
Thanks for the video, always enjoy what you do and how you do it. Great info.
Excellent detailed video, thanks
On the subject of carbs, there is a company in the UK who produce EFI conversion kits for classic cars that use the original carbs as a throttle body.
This gives you the improved reliability, better performance and reduced maintenance of Fuel injection combined with the near original factory look of the carbs.
Maybe not for this engine but possibly a future update for one of your own Rusty Beauties.
I like the simplicity of these old babies and unless something is really unreliable I don't try to improve it drastically. I would change the generator to an alternator on any car right away, but I wouldn't touch the carbs. They are pretty reliable. I know people, who upgrade their cars to a point where this is not a classic car anymore. I am not one of them.
@@RustyBeauties it's more of a solution for someone who wants to use a classic as a daily driver with minimum effort.
Great video, very informative 👍🏻
If Rusty hang out too much on the back side of that engine block while you are spraying that WD40 you will have to change his name to Derusted.
Wow, a week to get the head through the machine shop, I got mine back last month and it took only eight months!
Well, it's been 10 days now and I still have no news LOL
Hi Elin,
Just been watching your TR6 engine strip-down and re-build videos the most comprehensive and easy to follow ones I have seen.
I have just purchased a left hand drive one that was imported from the States in 2001, and I am told it had a full engine rebuild completed 10+ years ago including hardened valve seats but has not run since and the engine is seized. The car was barn stored but it could not have been waterproof as on removal of rocker cover bright red rust could be seen. I have now removed the head and poured a mixture of Diesel and ATF fluid into each cylinder and into each tappet recess and so far after two weeks the fluid has penetrated 4 of the six cylinders but none of the tappet bores, on inspection of the valves and pistons they do appear to be brand new but cannot find any markings on the piston heads regarding sizes!
Do you have any ideas of how to remove the solid tappets which I now think is the main problem to the seizure
I can't understand why your girlfriend doesn't like baking! Awesome vid as always.
I might have to rebuild one of these cars some day and put a fuel injected Chevy small block in it, change the springs etc for the weight change and maybe beef up the chassis. If I do I will find one that is smashed or not in restorable condition to not change an a nice original.
Watch Fanatikbuilds channel for the ultimate Gt6 mods..
@@poppydogz ok, 30 year auto tech that builds cars as a hobby, kinda have my own "ultimate" ideas lol. Big block 84 Camaro, 91 240 SX, trucks cars of all eras over the years. Built my first multiport fuel injected S-10 in 94. But ty.
That exact srew on the rockershaft failed in my GT6 Engine this may on my way to Scottland. I noticed because it started to ticker very loud and loss of power. Result was 12 damaged rockers, rocker shaft was toast and everything seased at disassembly. Had to push it out with a 10ton press 😬
Wow! Just a small screw, but can cause a lot of damage...
The step after polishing the cylinders. Did you say re-thread the stud threads? Or was that just cleaning them?
I run a tap through all the threads to clean them from rust and debris. I call it “chasing” the threads, not sure it is the correct term :)
Am I right in saying you always use duplicolour engine enamel for spraying your engines. How do you find it lasts?
Is your process cleaning it down and using a rust killing agent and then duplicolour engine primer and then engine enamel. Is your colours gloss black and standard silver?
Yes, correct. That is the exact procedure. I am really happy with the duplicolour engine enamel. It lasts on my spitfire engine for 6 years so far. It is super dirty but the paint is still there. Yes, these are black gloss and silver
Thackary washer , cheaper than shims.
Hmm, I don't think a thackary washer will work behind the sprocket. The gap that needs to be filled is not bigger than 0.010"
First?
had a74 and the TR6's were famously underpowered. Looked and sounded like a million dollars but overrated for engine performance
The emission regulations were what robbed the power at the time. You can't expect much from a 7.6:1 compression ratio. But there are ways to correct that and I am doing that to this engine. It will follow in the next episodes