Elin, please do not worry about making too long a video; especially one as important as an engine rebuild! The more details you share with us, the better. Thanks for your attention to details!
What an amazing video, Elin! There was not one thing you could have left out, so don't even think about the length of the video. This is a tutorial on building an "historical" engine. Thank you so much for all of the effort that went into sharing this information.
Great video, perfect pace and not too long!! The checks that you did on the oil pump reminded me of a problem that I had after I rebuilt my Spitfire engine. I started the car to go home from work and the oil pressure light wouldn't go out. After getting it towed home and inspecting one of the crankshaft journals all was ok. The problem turned out to be that the oil pump shaft had lost drive from the gear on the camshaft. This was because the oil pump hadn't been assembled correctly in that it didn't protrude sufficiently to engage properly, there was maybe a 1mm engagement or something like that. It was in the end a simple fix but might have ruined the engine if I was travelling at speed. I can't remember if it was a new pump or not but the vendor who I used for my parts pointed me in the right direction and told me what to look for. Good luck from Spain!!
i bougthed a new tr6 pi at 1975 in lisbon it was the last one in portugal and at 1985 i sold it with about 100.000 km it had overdrive eletric at 3 and 4 changes mecanical i had a troble with gasoline eletric pump i see your program with atention thanks for your advises
If I remember right the wood was in the upper gasket set when I bought those. I may be wrong but take a look even though it's too late. Great video not too long.
Very satisfying to watch! I hope to build my own someday, but this old engine seems to take a little more skill than putting together old german engines. I didn't have to know how to use an end float gauge, and timing was all done by marks on various surfaces of components. Metal Lego kit for grown ups.
Mains are 20 under not over.its correct about the lube for the bores, furthermore it ought to be mineral oil so as not to protect to much , if you use synthetic it's likely to resist bedding in and may glaze the bore. It's also good practice to lubricate under the main and big end cap bolts before torquing.
Different schools, different terminology. I've seen it used both ways. Some manuals call it undersized, because the journal is undersized, but others call it oversized, which makes more sense. In reality the bearing is oversized to compensate for the undersized journal.
@@RustyBeauties it isn't terminology it's mathematics,the measurement is on the journal and the amount ground of is the amount that the bearing needs to be to compensate for that, you aren't measuring the thickness because the outer remains the same, if you look at the shell it shows a minus mark, I e -0.0020" It's the reverse of the bores because you take material from the inside so the piston needs material added hence "plus"
@@pbysome That is correct, I do not disagree with you. The inner diameter is smaller so you might consider them undersized based on that measurement. Like I said I've seen manuals that call them oversized, but I think they call the bearings with added thickness to the outer diameter oversized. That is for when you machine the block. So you are right! My logic was, if you remove material you go under and when you add material you go over, but even though it makes sense the engineers have a different idea, which is confusing. Thanks for bringing that up. Now I know the right terminology, but I hate that it doesn't make sense :) Something with added mass should be oversized LOL
@@RustyBeauties I see where you are coming from, if you called them oversize it would be literally correct because, as you say, they have more mass, but if you refer to the size i.e -0.0020" the can't be 20 over. Anyway Elin that was a great video and your engine building prowess is unquestionable. You have the most important aspect right which is patience and care , nothing left to chance. Good job man ...good job I really enjoy your work and the way you explain your thought processes I can relate.👍
Did you paint the inside of the block? If so what did you use? I did this once 30 years ago on a 302 Ford block when a friend from a power plant gave me a brush on Rustoleum product they used to paint bearing blocks, pump housing etc. In the several years after while I owned that engine I never noticed paint chips in the oil filters, and the used oil seemed cleaner (less sludge) than what I was used too.
I was a bit surprised you didn't check the ring fit to the cylinder's before putting them on the pistons. Possibly you did that off-camera before you did the video?
I did that in the previous video. The number you see inside the rings is the gap measurement in thou's. Like I said in the beginning, this is part 3 of this engine rebuild. All the measuring and calculating happened in parts 1 and 2
That's a good video, if you shortened it would lose something. Anyone who hasn't rebuilt an engine would get confidence from this unhurried informative engine build.
There is clearly a manufacturing fault with the brown paper front cover gasket - look at the out of round hole for the Crank, the paper has shifted during punching somehow? such poor quality control is unfortunately all to common with re-man parts, the manufacturer missed it and clearly the retail supplier has not checked incoming goods either - that won't be a one-off fault...
Elin, please do not worry about making too long a video; especially one as important as an engine rebuild! The more details you share with us, the better. Thanks for your attention to details!
I agree with Omph! Never too long for me Elin!👍
Again,you catch forgotten items and show the corrections. You are a wonderful teacher and give me confidence to do a rebuild myself. Thanks!
What an amazing video, Elin! There was not one thing you could have left out, so don't even think about the length of the video. This is a tutorial on building an "historical" engine. Thank you so much for all of the effort that went into sharing this information.
Great video, perfect pace and not too long!!
The checks that you did on the oil pump reminded me of a problem that I had after I rebuilt my Spitfire engine. I started the car to go home from work and the oil pressure light wouldn't go out. After getting it towed home and inspecting one of the crankshaft journals all was ok. The problem turned out to be that the oil pump shaft had lost drive from the gear on the camshaft. This was because the oil pump hadn't been assembled correctly in that it didn't protrude sufficiently to engage properly, there was maybe a 1mm engagement or something like that. It was in the end a simple fix but might have ruined the engine if I was travelling at speed. I can't remember if it was a new pump or not but the vendor who I used for my parts pointed me in the right direction and told me what to look for.
Good luck from Spain!!
Ok…I’m getting my brain ready for the timing video 😉
I will make it complicated especially for you :) I know you like puzzles :)
Very well explained and a pleasure to watch. Thanks
Elin, I find it relaxing to watch you reassemble the engine. You do the work and I just sit back 🤓. Thank you. 🎅
Such a good episode man. You're both an educator and an entertainer!
Thank you thank you!!!
i bougthed a new tr6 pi at 1975 in lisbon it was the last one in portugal
and at 1985 i sold it with about 100.000 km
it had overdrive eletric at 3 and 4 changes mecanical
i had a troble with gasoline eletric pump
i see your program with atention
thanks for your advises
If I remember right the wood was in the upper gasket set when I bought those. I may be wrong but take a look even though it's too late. Great video not too long.
No, the blocks have always been in the bottom gasket set. I double checked the other set too, but they weren’t there. Weird.
Very satisfying to watch! I hope to build my own someday, but this old engine seems to take a little more skill than putting together old german engines. I didn't have to know how to use an end float gauge, and timing was all done by marks on various surfaces of components. Metal Lego kit for grown ups.
Mains are 20 under not over.its correct about the lube for the bores, furthermore it ought to be mineral oil so as not to protect to much , if you use synthetic it's likely to resist bedding in and may glaze the bore.
It's also good practice to lubricate under the main and big end cap bolts before torquing.
Different schools, different terminology. I've seen it used both ways. Some manuals call it undersized, because the journal is undersized, but others call it oversized, which makes more sense. In reality the bearing is oversized to compensate for the undersized journal.
@@RustyBeauties it isn't terminology it's mathematics,the measurement is on the journal and the amount ground of is the amount that the bearing needs to be to compensate for that, you aren't measuring the thickness because the outer remains the same, if you look at the shell it shows a minus mark, I e -0.0020"
It's the reverse of the bores because you take material from the inside so the piston needs material added hence "plus"
@@pbysome That is correct, I do not disagree with you. The inner diameter is smaller so you might consider them undersized based on that measurement. Like I said I've seen manuals that call them oversized, but I think they call the bearings with added thickness to the outer diameter oversized. That is for when you machine the block.
So you are right! My logic was, if you remove material you go under and when you add material you go over, but even though it makes sense the engineers have a different idea, which is confusing.
Thanks for bringing that up. Now I know the right terminology, but I hate that it doesn't make sense :) Something with added mass should be oversized LOL
@@RustyBeauties I see where you are coming from, if you called them oversize it would be literally correct because, as you say, they have more mass, but if you refer to the size i.e -0.0020" the can't be 20 over.
Anyway Elin that was a great video and your engine building prowess is unquestionable.
You have the most important aspect right which is patience and care , nothing left to chance.
Good job man ...good job I really enjoy your work and the way you explain your thought processes I can relate.👍
Did you paint the inside of the block? If so what did you use? I did this once 30 years ago on a 302 Ford block when a friend from a power plant gave me a brush on Rustoleum product they used to paint bearing blocks, pump housing etc. In the several years after while I owned that engine I never noticed paint chips in the oil filters, and the used oil seemed cleaner (less sludge) than what I was used too.
I was a bit surprised you didn't check the ring fit to the cylinder's before putting them on the pistons. Possibly you did that off-camera before you did the video?
I did that in the previous video. The number you see inside the rings is the gap measurement in thou's. Like I said in the beginning, this is part 3 of this engine rebuild. All the measuring and calculating happened in parts 1 and 2
STP makes great assembly lube and works out v cheap.
That's a good video, if you shortened it would lose something.
Anyone who hasn't rebuilt an engine would get confidence from this unhurried informative engine build.
Elin, when can you make a site visit and help consult on my tr6! ;)
So it’s not a cross drilled crank?
It is. There is a drilled oil passage from each crank pin to a journal next to it
Not good to use a long extension when torqueing bolts,. There is twist in the extension
There is clearly a manufacturing fault with the brown paper front cover gasket - look at the out of round hole for the Crank, the paper has shifted during punching somehow? such poor quality control is unfortunately all to common with re-man parts, the manufacturer missed it and clearly the retail supplier has not checked incoming goods either - that won't be a one-off fault...