These videos are so valuable! Thank you for posting them and going step by step on what to do/look for/troubleshoot. I'm on emergency water and my control box apparently tripped. I didn't realize what the problem was. I had checked the CBs, the wiring, etc, but it would not run. I had pushed the reset buttons, but did not realize how hard you have to push them. I got it reset and am up and running. These videos could definitely benefit me if I have anymore issues. Thanks again!
Started watching your videos due to lost water pressure with in ground 230 Volt 3 hp Franklin pump and controller Followed your videos and tested accordingly. Not that so I went to your next vid. On and On, until the last one on testing the reset buttons. I Kept going bc YOU kept going onstep by logical step. If not this, then next test for this. Last video showed how to test and what results to expect from testing the Start and Run reset buttons. MY Thermal reset was stuck open and I had to force it to finally click.Then I got to see voltage you said I should have. Powered it up and we now have water. So a BIG thank you for NOT quitting on the videos by just showing the easy to test stuff like some I watched. I have water pressure now bc your videos are thorough. I was almost ready to pull the inground pump. Saying Thank you hardly seems adequate thanks enough.
Thank you so much for making this excellent troubleshooting video. Your comment that the overload switch may take some force to reset saved me a service call. Both of my switches had tripped after a storm where the power cycled on and off. The right switch did not take too much pressure to reset. I had pushed the other one and nothing happened. I checked for continuity and the one that reset measured properly however the other was open. After seeing your video, I double checked the switch with extra force in pushing the button and it reset. Continuity was restored as was proper operation of the well. Thanks again for saving me from a service call.
Everything appeared fine and I couldn’t figure out why power was getting to the box but not turning on the pump. It was just the overload switches needing to be clicked! Thank you for the help!
The video , and one of the comments help me get water again . I had previous pressed the reset button , but one of the commets stated it must be pressed hard , which i did and heard the reset pop . I;m quite sure one of the componants is bad , and will again cause it to trip , so i will buy the parts . Thanks to you both
Thank you, saved me while I was hosting family and we suddenly had no water. I was able to get everything going again thanks to your help. I appreciate the videos.
Awesome video! Had a guy come out to tell me I needed to replace the entire box for $950. Did some research and found this video. Pushed the reset button on the bottom and it worked! Thanks!
good work you do with your videos. Only 1 thing I would suggest on this one is to take pics and written notes on where the wires go before unhooking any, Thanks CW
Thank You very much! had a short-circuit red cable made contact to metal, from poor installation, fixed but dint know about resetting, and saw your video and KAPOOMMM!! Thank You!😀
Closeups of the meter and contact points on the control box would be very helpful . In addition those of us unfamiliar with the use of voltage would like closeups of the meter face so we can adjust our meter’s accordingly. Otherwise good info. Thanks!
I realize this is a 5 year old tutorial and it is still relevent and helpful, Thanks. I have a switch box that runs to the control box and then a Pump Saver Model 23. And I have replaced the pressure switch. The problem I am having is that the pump , when switched on runs only for about 10 seconds max. The Air tank has 37.5 lbs in it. When I throw the on switch the air gage only grts to about 30 lbs psi (with an open 3/4" line) then dhuts off. The pump saver calibration light and the green operstion light illuminates. Shortly after that the other (right hand) calibration light illuminates and also the overload light just before shutting off. While its running, the pump seems to be just fine. I replaced some plumbing when i installed the new pressure switch. Someone told me thst i needed to bleed off the airtank pressure and then run it then fill it to 38 psi ( pressure switch is a 40 / 60) I havet tryed that yet. You seem to habevtye best tutorials available, so in the hopes you still check this youtube channel i thought i would ssk you.
Unless you installed the system yourself, relying on wire colors on manufacturer diagram can sometimes be a gamble, some installers may replace a bad wire with one of a different color because that's what they have available. Taking a picture of the wire colors and position on each terminal (component) is a good way to insure the proper reconnect order.
Great video as always ! I have a fairly new Franklin 1.5hp control box and recently upon turning on it makes a buzzing noise . What could be the problem ? Capacitor?
Thanks for watching! If you have ANY questions or concerns about your water system you can leave a comment, call our experts at 855.329.4519 or you can live chat with them on our website: RCWorst.com
Great video. I have a 2HP well pump that was replaced about 2 years ago and the black start capacitor went bad on it about 3 weeks ago. I replaced it with an exact same 105-126uF But when I replaced that capacitor I noticed the run(shiny) capacitor was of 20uF. Is this normal for a 2HP or should I replace it with a 30uF capacitor, I was able to run my sprinkler system without loosing pressure at the tank, and now pressure drops to 20-25lbs.
Your video made me look like a super hero in front of my parents I swear I’ve never seen them look more proud then when I started testing shit and assured them it was the capacitor jk I tried doing this and was instantly told not to touch shit someone’s coming out tomorrow I’m a fucking mechanic and love electrical diagrams smh
It would be very nice if you would provide a link to where we could buy the parts you are testing. I have a bad relay but cannot find where to buy it without replacing the whole control box.
I have watched several videos and like the way you explain things. Could you possibly make a video of exactly what a Franklin box does and why I need one. Or if you have a video that explains could I get the link
Howdy, thanks for the videos. Question I have is can bees or something other than a leak ( Dug up all 5 hydrants I see no water leak there. I also shut of the water to the house) that can cause the motor to be constantly running? My green light has been flashing for a month at least. 1 sec intervals, stopping for a second now and then.
Awesome video, I have a question if you don't mind. I have a newly installed 2HP franklin submersible pump and keep on stopping from time to time. What most likely the problem with it?
Thumbed up for fixing my simple problems: #1 - Where are those damned reset buttons? Oh... they're hiding under there. #2 - I would have likely have not pressed them firmly enough had he not mentioned the need to press them relatively hard. Thanks for posting this.
I just recently subscribe your channel, love it. I have a sprinkler system running through the lake. No idea where the water is going to the sprinklers. I was able to locate the control box and the red button on the left (while facing the control box) trips every 6 minutes. Can you please advise what else to do or check. Thanks Noman
Thanks for the video! I recently came across a 1/1.5HP control box like this one and the start capacitor was definitely cooked. It leaked out all the electrolyte inside and the actual contact itself was also completely corroded. I changed out the start capacitor for one with the same microfarads and replaced the connector cable. However, it still didn't want to start up. I ended up replacing the entire control box and then it worked. Does the capacitor need to be the same brand? The relay measured correctly. I did not check the run capacitor as I did not have a spare one of those. Could it be that both capacitors were bad? Do you sell replacement capacitors? Thanks!
I keep trying to find anything on the franklin line contractor coil that's in the deluxe control box but the main videos it brings up are these which don't have that feature. Is there somewhere else I can go to find information on testing it?
Good series! I'm following to troubleshoot my sons well pump....but noticed that I don't have any type of control box on my system, that I can find. Is this something I need to address? I had the well drilled deeper and a new pressure switch installed by professionals, and they didn't mention the missing control box.
Great video. After resetting the overload, it continues to pop when turning power back on. Does that mean it can only be the pump? Can a bad capacitor cause an overload to pop?
If you are still uncertain about the control box, is there any danger in turning off the breaker, connecting the pump leads directly to the incoming line voltage, opening a nearby water valve, and turning the breaker back on for a few seconds while watching for the water flow? Wouldn't that would bypass the pressure switch and the control box and quickly let you know if the pump was working or not? Knowing that would speed up troubleshooting and possibly avoid the need to pull the pump out of the well. Thanks!
Control box went out yesterday replaced it with a new one the new ones capacitor blew up now installed another new one and still not working well pump is about 2 months old also replaced pressure switch what could be causing these issues also I’m on like the 4th pump in 8 year time frame any suggestions or your thoughts would be much appreciated thanks
Thanks for you very helpful videos. The capacitor ratings in on my Franklin control box label do not match the capacitors that are installed in the control box. When replacing, should i match the label or the existing capacitors? Maybe a replacement pump required different capacitors? The label is for a 3 HP pump, and someone wrote on the box that the pump was replaced with a 3HP pump a few years ago. The Run capacitor on my label is a 35 MFC 370V and the one installed is a 45 MFD 370V. I think an incorrect capacitor may be the root of my problem.
I would replace it with what is supposed to be in the control box, but really either should work fine. The new 3 HP control boxes come with a 45 Mfd so that may be why that one was installed.
Could a bad control box cause the pump to not kick on at a certain water pressure resulting in water shutting off? Everything in my system is new including the pressure switch. my pumptec control box and well pump are the only two things that have not been changed
Thanks for this great video! I've got about a half dozen bad boxes laying around. Lightning knocks them out. In the past, tried replacing capacitors that were obviously bad (bleeding), but these didn't last long, so I assumed there was another problem and stopped replacing capacitors. I just opened a relay and started searching for a video. Turns out the relay I have taken apart has a bad coil (open). Are the coils replaceable?
The relays are a common replacement part, but I am not sure if it is replaceable or where you would even find just the coil. Best bet is to replace the entire relay.
I want to check my control box with a volt meter, however it's outside the work shop and has a large puddle of water around it. I plan on filling the area with sand with the help of our tractor. Using the meter, will I still be able to check the box without worrying about getting shocked? Your advice on how to proceed. Thanks.
In the video, you mention that the resistance across the coil (in the relay box) should be 4.7-7.0. Is that in thousands of ohms, for example 4700-7000 ohms? My relay box had a sticky residue inside it and covering all three terminals. I also get 0 ohms resistance across the coil. short?
@@CrankAddict Just watched their relay video and it should be 4,500 to 7,000 Ω, or 4.5 - 7.0 kΩ. You were right. Their reply above is not consistent with their video.
Thanks! This helped me to identify my start capacitor was bad. Sadly, there was not one available anywhere nearby that had the same microfarad range (part 275464-113, 220V, uF 105-126). I ended up buying a whole new well controller and replaced the other one, which was pretty simple. Funny enough, when I opened up the new one it had almost the exact same start capacitor in it, only difference was the brand. I'm back up and running now. However, I am curious. There was a 220V start capacitor with a uF of 108-130, had I used that would that have been a huge issue? I don't know what pump I have, it was installed by the previous owner and we've not had the well serviced since we bought the house 3 years ago.
I recently moved into my home that has city water and sewer. However, there is a well system that is not functional that I would like to use for my outside spigots. I have not dug too deeply into this but when I switch the breaker “on” my voltage sniffer detects voltage at the line that goes down the well to the pump. My question is, could the problem still be a bad control box and that the voltage I am detecting is not sufficient to start the pump ? My estimate is that the pump has not been used for at least ten years and according to the installation manual that was found by the control box it was installed in 1990, it’s probably dead but I would like to see if there is a possible cheap fix rather than pulling the pump and replacing that, only to find the control was what was at fault. A visual inspection of the control box shows that the capacitor “dot” is yellow and the capacitor, although not bulging, has leaked something that is now dried and crusty. I guess my question is, will I still be able to sniff voltage at the well shaft with a control box that is bad.
Yes, it will still pass voltage through. I would recommend purchasing a new control box and hoping that fixes the issue. You can buy them at rcworst.com
@@RCworstwaterThanks ! I have been able to source the replacement capacitor locally, same specs as that which is looking to have blown. Am I wasting my time replacing just that or is it necessary to replace the whole control box. If I do replace the box, what is the estimated shipping time to CT and which box would you recommend. The box I have is for 230V 1/2 HP, three wire. I do not know what type of pump is in the well but I'll have to assume it's a 1/2 HP.
@@Mandinka711 You can try replacing just the capacitor and see if that works. A lot of times, when one component in a box fails the other components fail shortly after, which is why we recommend replacing the whole box. Here's a link to the one you need: www.rcworst.com/Franklin-Electric-2801054915-QD-Submersible-Motor-Control-Box-0-5-HP-230V-1PH-For-3-Wire-Motors-p197.html
@@RCworstwater Yeah, I had already bought the capacitor so I figured I would replace that. Nothing. So I then tested the relay using your video. I have the blue relay but mine is rated 1/2 HP 230 V. I disconnected the relay and my results were CAP-B - nothing. B-L1 I got 0.3 Ohms. Does that suggest the relay is bad. If it is I'll buy a new box. I'm trying to eliminate the issues without spending more money on parts I don't actually need. If it's not then presumably I have to pull the pump. Is there a way to test the pump is at least still connected rather than there being a bad splice somewhere ? Is there a way to test the pump itself without pulling it ? Thanks.
I have an older version of the Franklin control box in this video. I have had to reset it twice this week. Never had to do it in the 10+ years I have had this well. Any thoughts as to why it’s happening? Thanks
I have a F.E deluxe control box for my 2HP pump. My pump keeps running even after the pressure switch trips to turn it off resulting in over pressure and a watery mess. Why would the pump keep running after the pressure switch tells it not to?? :(
Tested the Overloads and they are reading 0.8 which is above the 0.5 the box says they should be below. Now. This said... the lowest option on the selector dial of my cheap multimeter is 200 ... so is that potentially adding in a factor of 2 since it is 200 not 100? The next setting up is also 2000 not 1000 so I am thinking I need to divide all my results by 2?
@@russellparker5043 You meter display is 3-1/2 digits, meaning it reads from 0.000 to 1.999 (or some other decimal point position). That's why the ranges are 200, 2000, etc. The reading is still ohms, not doubled. You should first touch your probes together to see what reading you get, and subtract that from the reading on the overloads, so you're not counting the resistance in the probe wires. And your meter is not trustworthy at such low ohm values, so I wouldn't assume that an 0.8 ohm reading is necessarily diagnostic of a faulty overload.
We have a Franklin control box on our well. We bought the house 14 years ago and were shown the reset button on the bottom when we were buying it. Since then, and probably before, the button trips sometimes 2-3 times a day and sometimes not for a week or two. What should I be checking for to find out why? Most times it's not bad but if we're in the shower and it trips we have to go out, fully soaped up, and press the buttom on the bottom. Our pump house is about 100' out from the house and it is a pain. It also happens when doing laundry so the whole load has to be redone. I can't think of anything that trips it consistently, it's random. What should I be testing and what might be the problem? Like I said it has been going on for 14 years and my wife is very tired of it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. model #2823008110 1.5hp
Great videos. I'm troubleshooting my box and noted that the start overload fuse keeps opening following a lightning strike. Resistance across posts is well above the 0.5 ohm stated as the max. Checked capacitors and relay and that all seems well. Anyone know where I can buy the overload fuses? I cant find them anywhere
My box has a switch in the upper left corner of the box that works in conjunction with the pressure switch. The water quit flowing, I pressed the reset and this switch activated with a lot of arching & sparking then tripped off and it will not reset again. I can't get a replacement switch till Monday if at all and was wondering if I could bypass it?
So my well quit. I followed these tests and had a bad start capacitor. Replaced that but still no water. The question I have is that my overloads test high: left is 5.5 right is 1.86 what does that tell me is wrong? Your video did not specify.
After taking my Franklin control box apart, everything seems to test ok, but the capacitor has leaked some of its guts it appears so I suspect it may be bad..I wasn't able to perform the micro farad test..I bought a control box from the local store but it's not a Franklin, doesn't have a No load protector and the lines are slightly different...(red goes to relay and black goes to capacitor) so I'm reticent to try it...The pump has been starting then stopping with no water pressure..I suspect the line might be frozen? Or could it be the box? And I'm tempted to try the new controller ( was told they are universal which I suspect isn't true) just to see..so I'm at a crux...any suggestions...by the way, I live in remote Haines Alaska, so it's not easy to get the correct parts except by mail...
Eric Grose you have to buy a new well pump and control box, and usually need an entire new well drilled when that happens. But seriously, did you ever find out?
@@marsogreen2411 I tried tracking down those button assemblies by the numbers on them but couldn't find anything. So I gave up. I consider the old box spare parts.😀
my question is the following as it is the formula to place capacitors to the motor at least 5.5 hp and if it is within your reach the diagram of the box of layers that you have in your hands also that suncion makes this relay RELAY 5HP-15HP FRANKLIN 155031601 as I know the component that stops a relay that is a lightning arrestor that is connected in the wiring that goes along with the capacitors as I am when it is good or damaged like the relay 5HP-15HP FRANKLIN 155031601 when it is damaged
I got zero reading on my overloads (non tripped) this lead me to buy a new box because I had everything else . Brand new box also one reads 0 one .1ohm . Zero is an acceptable reading . If it were tripped as in switch tripped connection to power is broken and would show O.L .
@@RCworstwater yes I’ve come to understand that. Perhaps you misspoke in video and written introduction online and meant o.l reading would indicate tripped overloads instead of 0.
2hp submersible, not working. Power company ripped through a line a few hundred yards away while trimming trees, actually had cut all the way through. Claimed it didn't hurt anything. I replaced bad control box, relay and capacitors cooked. Started up and ran great for 3 days. Several hours a day (because lack of rain and pond is drying up, only use for that well) and then day 4 it just stopped. was pumping about 5gal/10 sec. I opened control box, one blk wire to black capacitor had not been crimped at factory properly and was loose as I was looking around and relay points were burned. I replaced capacitor with a good one, and sanded points in relay. Turned on and all I get is a spark from white relay box. Black capacitor not affected. Good pressure switch, new relief valve, wondering what they will say if I try to return box that had loose wire to the connector. Thanks for any suggestions!!
Thank you for the video. Have replaced the control box twice over the years (can get it for about $160 on amazon) but now I can just replace the bad parts for much less. I have the same question another person asked about the relay resistance. You say 4.7 - 7.0 Ω and we can't see what scale you are on with the video resolution, but then you move the switch three positions to the x1 scale, suggesting that you were on the x1000 scale when you measured resistance initially. So should it be 4.7 - 7.0 kΩ?
No more plug in modules, or the royal blue painted control box as was with Jacuzzi well pumps. I'd be very concerned about using a very inexpensive multi-meter, as they do not have many safety features which protect the user as found in a Amprobe or Fluke. A great example of quality is the video of EEVblog 1377 - The Amazing UNPREDICTABILITY of Fuses! used in cheap verses quality multimeters.
At 4:56 or so you state that something is already tripped. No idea what you are saying. Cant make it out. What is already tripped. Think you are talking about the overloads but cant understand the word you used. Listened to it 3 or 4 times but still no idea what you said.
He said that if you do not get any reading between the points on the overload that means it has already tripped. You'll need push it back in and take another reading.
What is the purpose of the control box. I have had a well water supply in two different states. The wiring was hooked directly into the pressure switch.
Control boxes are required for 3-wire pumps because the starting components are not built-in to the motors. You can learn more by watching this video: ua-cam.com/video/86oOOCKJgWg/v-deo.html
Zero ohms 10:44 across a set of contacts means it is open? 10:49. This is complete nonsense, zero ohms across a set of points is a 100% sure indication that the contacts are closed.
Agree - I opened my relay and confirmed it is normally closed. Also agree with the correction that the coil resistance is 4.5 - 7 kohms, not 4.5 - 7 ohms.
These videos are so valuable! Thank you for posting them and going step by step on what to do/look for/troubleshoot. I'm on emergency water and my control box apparently tripped. I didn't realize what the problem was. I had checked the CBs, the wiring, etc, but it would not run. I had pushed the reset buttons, but did not realize how hard you have to push them. I got it reset and am up and running. These videos could definitely benefit me if I have anymore issues. Thanks again!
Started watching your videos due to lost water pressure with in ground 230 Volt 3 hp Franklin pump and controller Followed your videos and tested accordingly. Not that so I went to your next vid. On and On, until the last one on testing the reset buttons. I Kept going bc YOU kept going onstep by logical step. If not this, then next test for this. Last video showed how to test and what results to expect from testing the Start and Run reset buttons. MY Thermal reset was stuck open and I had to force it to finally click.Then I got to see voltage you said I should have. Powered it up and we now have water. So a BIG thank you for NOT quitting on the videos by just showing the easy to test stuff like some I watched. I have water pressure now bc your videos are thorough. I was almost ready to pull the inground pump. Saying Thank you hardly seems adequate thanks enough.
Thank you so much for making this excellent troubleshooting video. Your comment that the overload switch may take some force to reset saved me a service call. Both of my switches had tripped after a storm where the power cycled on and off. The right switch did not take too much pressure to reset. I had pushed the other one and nothing happened. I checked for continuity and the one that reset measured properly however the other was open. After seeing your video, I double checked the switch with extra force in pushing the button and it reset. Continuity was restored as was proper operation of the well. Thanks again for saving me from a service call.
Nice Job!
Everything appeared fine and I couldn’t figure out why power was getting to the box but not turning on the pump. It was just the overload switches needing to be clicked! Thank you for the help!
Happy to help!
The video , and one of the comments help me get water again . I had previous pressed the reset button , but one of the commets stated it must be pressed hard , which i did and heard the reset pop . I;m quite sure one of the componants is bad , and will again cause it to trip , so i will buy the parts . Thanks to you both
Thank you, saved me while I was hosting family and we suddenly had no water. I was able to get everything going again thanks to your help. I appreciate the videos.
HI Brett same thing to me, I learn how to reset it and that was it!!!
Awesome video! Had a guy come out to tell me I needed to replace the entire box for $950. Did some research and found this video. Pushed the reset button on the bottom and it worked! Thanks!
Nice work!
You can buy 9 control boxes for that money. Criminal
My 3 hp control box is 329.00
good work you do with your videos. Only 1 thing I would suggest on this one is to take pics and written notes on where the wires go before unhooking any, Thanks CW
Thank You very much! had a short-circuit red cable made contact to metal, from poor installation, fixed but dint know about resetting, and saw your video and KAPOOMMM!! Thank You!😀
Closeups of the meter and contact points on the control box would be very helpful .
In addition those of us unfamiliar with the use of voltage would like closeups of the meter face so we can adjust our meter’s accordingly. Otherwise good info. Thanks!
If you aren't familiar with it, probably should call an electrician
@@mitchellmantifel9665 Its not hard to use a meter, just copy what he does in the Video.
@@fredriklindstrom9935 Can't see enough detail!
I realize this is a 5 year old tutorial and it is still relevent and helpful, Thanks.
I have a switch box that runs to the control box and then a Pump Saver Model 23. And I have replaced the pressure switch.
The problem I am having is that the pump , when switched on runs only for about 10 seconds max.
The Air tank has 37.5 lbs in it.
When I throw the on switch the air gage only grts to about 30 lbs psi (with an open 3/4" line) then dhuts off. The pump saver calibration light and the green operstion light illuminates. Shortly after that the other (right hand) calibration light illuminates and also the overload light just before shutting off.
While its running, the pump seems to be just fine.
I replaced some plumbing when i installed the new pressure switch. Someone told me thst i needed to bleed off the airtank pressure and then run it then fill it to 38 psi ( pressure switch is a 40 / 60)
I havet tryed that yet.
You seem to habevtye best tutorials available, so in the hopes you still check this youtube channel i thought i would ssk you.
Did you figure it out similar to what I’m dealing with thanks
Unless you installed the system yourself, relying on wire colors on manufacturer diagram can sometimes be a gamble, some installers may replace a bad wire with one of a different color because that's what they have available. Taking a picture of the wire colors and position on each terminal (component) is a good way to insure the proper reconnect order.
😅
Great video as always ! I have a fairly new Franklin 1.5hp control box and recently upon turning on it makes a buzzing noise . What could be the problem ? Capacitor?
Thanks for watching! If you have ANY questions or concerns about your water system you can leave a comment, call our experts at 855.329.4519 or you can live chat with them on our website: RCWorst.com
Excellent video - clear explanations - Solved my problem in a few minutes.
Glad it helped!
Great video. I have a 2HP well pump that was replaced about 2 years ago and the black start capacitor went bad on it about 3 weeks ago. I replaced it with an exact same 105-126uF But when I replaced that capacitor I noticed the run(shiny) capacitor was of 20uF. Is this normal for a 2HP or should I replace it with a 30uF capacitor, I was able to run my sprinkler system without loosing pressure at the tank, and now pressure drops to 20-25lbs.
That would be a question for the manufacturer of the motor. Our Franklin Electric 2 HP motors use a 20 mfd run capacitor.
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. thank you !
So you would replace the bad capacitor or replace the entire box?
Your video made me look like a super hero in front of my parents I swear I’ve never seen them look more proud then when I started testing shit and assured them it was the capacitor jk I tried doing this and was instantly told not to touch shit someone’s coming out tomorrow
I’m a fucking mechanic and love electrical diagrams smh
Helpful video, thank you for sharing the info.
Glad it was helpful!
It would be very nice if you would provide a link to where we could buy the parts you are testing. I have a bad relay but cannot find where to buy it without replacing the whole control box.
Great information.
Thank you for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
I have watched several videos and like the way you explain things.
Could you possibly make a video of exactly what a Franklin box does and why I need one. Or if you have a video that explains could I get the link
What setting are you testing the compassator?
Howdy, thanks for the videos. Question I have is can bees or something other than a leak ( Dug up all 5 hydrants I see no water leak there. I also shut of the water to the house) that can cause the motor to be constantly running? My green light has been flashing for a month at least. 1 sec intervals, stopping for a second now and then.
Thanks,very good video,helped a lot!
Awesome video, I have a question if you don't mind. I have a newly installed 2HP franklin submersible pump and keep on stopping from time to time. What most likely the problem with it?
Thumbed up for fixing my simple problems:
#1 - Where are those damned reset buttons? Oh... they're hiding under there.
#2 - I would have likely have not pressed them firmly enough had he not mentioned the need to press them relatively hard.
Thanks for posting this.
You bet Alex, thanks for the comment!
Alex Baugh how do I test for 220 voltage on my pump?....(I have a new Franklin control box, and can’t get it to work.) thank you.
I just recently subscribe your channel, love it. I have a sprinkler system running through the lake. No idea where the water is going to the sprinklers. I was able to locate the control box and the red button on the left (while facing the control box) trips every 6 minutes. Can you please advise what else to do or check.
Thanks
Noman
Thanks for the video! I recently came across a 1/1.5HP control box like this one and the start capacitor was definitely cooked. It leaked out all the electrolyte inside and the actual contact itself was also completely corroded. I changed out the start capacitor for one with the same microfarads and replaced the connector cable. However, it still didn't want to start up. I ended up replacing the entire control box and then it worked. Does the capacitor need to be the same brand? The relay measured correctly. I did not check the run capacitor as I did not have a spare one of those. Could it be that both capacitors were bad? Do you sell replacement capacitors? Thanks!
I keep trying to find anything on the franklin line contractor coil that's in the deluxe control box but the main videos it brings up are these which don't have that feature. Is there somewhere else I can go to find information on testing it?
The Franklin AIM manual is a good resource: www.franklinwater.com/resources/franklin-aim
Do all of the QO boxes have reset buttons?
None of the Franklin QD boxes have reset buttons.
@@RCworstwater Ahh ok, thats just the ones with the contactor?
1.5 HP and above
Very well done! Thank You
Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for this video right here you have saved my day
can you put a exsternal controll box on a pump with one built in it
no
How do you test the line contactor cool?
Good series! I'm following to troubleshoot my sons well pump....but noticed that I don't have any type of control box on my system, that I can find. Is this something I need to address? I had the well drilled deeper and a new pressure switch installed by professionals, and they didn't mention the missing control box.
Is it a 2-wire or 3-wire pump? If it's a 2-wire pump then it does not require a control box.
@@RCworstwater I'm sure its 2-wire now. Makes sense. No startup capacitor, no third wire.
Great video. After resetting the overload, it continues to pop when turning power back on. Does that mean it can only be the pump? Can a bad capacitor cause an overload to pop?
If the overload is continuously popping it is likely that you have a short somewhere. It could be in the wire or it could be in the pump/motor.
Having the same issue. Checking the wires in the morning. Thank you.
@@RCworstwater could a compactor cause a short? I have sparks around the compactor flying out when it starts the pump
hi how do i telll what micro fer-- capacitor to replace if not readerble on the oldone please help !!
If you are still uncertain about the control box, is there any danger in turning off the breaker, connecting the pump leads directly to the incoming line voltage, opening a nearby water valve, and turning the breaker back on for a few seconds while watching for the water flow? Wouldn't that would bypass the pressure switch and the control box and quickly let you know if the pump was working or not? Knowing that would speed up troubleshooting and possibly avoid the need to pull the pump out of the well.
Thanks!
The control box is required for starting the pump. There is no way to bypass it.
@@RCworstwater thanks! Bought a new control box.
I did all the test you said and my relay was bad, i out a used relay i had into it and pump works but relay makes vibrating noise when running pump
I'm here in a humming and a clicking noise coming from the capacitors are. Is that indication of bad capacitors?
Control box went out yesterday replaced it with a new one the new ones capacitor blew up now installed another new one and still not working well pump is about 2 months old also replaced pressure switch what could be causing these issues also I’m on like the 4th pump in 8 year time frame any suggestions or your thoughts would be much appreciated thanks
Thanks for you very helpful videos. The capacitor ratings in on my Franklin control box label do not match the capacitors that are installed in the control box. When replacing, should i match the label or the existing capacitors? Maybe a replacement pump required different capacitors? The label is for a 3 HP pump, and someone wrote on the box that the pump was replaced with a 3HP pump a few years ago. The Run capacitor on my label is a 35 MFC 370V and the one installed is a 45 MFD 370V. I think an incorrect capacitor may be the root of my problem.
I would replace it with what is supposed to be in the control box, but really either should work fine. The new 3 HP control boxes come with a 45 Mfd so that may be why that one was installed.
Could a bad control box cause the pump to not kick on at a certain water pressure resulting in water shutting off? Everything in my system is new including the pressure switch. my pumptec control box and well pump are the only two things that have not been changed
Not likely. Give us a call and we can help you troubleshoot the problem: 855.329.4519
Thanks for this great video! I've got about a half dozen bad boxes laying around. Lightning knocks them out. In the past, tried replacing capacitors that were obviously bad (bleeding), but these didn't last long, so I assumed there was another problem and stopped replacing capacitors. I just opened a relay and started searching for a video. Turns out the relay I have taken apart has a bad coil (open). Are the coils replaceable?
The relays are a common replacement part, but I am not sure if it is replaceable or where you would even find just the coil. Best bet is to replace the entire relay.
Show some closeups of the wiring! Worthless without that!
I want to check my control box with a volt meter, however it's outside the work shop and has a large puddle of water around it. I plan on filling the area with sand with the help of our tractor. Using the meter, will I still be able to check the box without worrying about getting shocked? Your advice on how to proceed. Thanks.
4:20 Thank you!
How about showing what the resistance selection is? I'll keep searching
What does it mean if the capacitors, after drop, read over 2.5?
In the video, you mention that the resistance across the coil (in the relay box) should be 4.7-7.0. Is that in thousands of ohms, for example 4700-7000 ohms? My relay box had a sticky residue inside it and covering all three terminals. I also get 0 ohms resistance across the coil. short?
Nope, just 4.7-7 ohms. Sounds like you need a new box if the capacitor blew.
@@RCworstwater I put a nice ohmmeter on that coil and it read 5.1X1000 ohms. The sticky residue was inside the relay box, not the control box.
@@CrankAddict Just watched their relay video and it should be 4,500 to 7,000 Ω, or 4.5 - 7.0 kΩ. You were right. Their reply above is not consistent with their video.
@@kevinhouck7345 thanks.
I couldn't see up close enough. The 0.5 ohm reading ...between which wires should you expect that?
Can you connect a 1.5 hp control box to a 1 hp pump? I have a older control with a faded label that I can't read.
Yes, it should work
My franklin 2hp main overload keeps tripping. What do you think could possibly be the root cause
Thanks! This helped me to identify my start capacitor was bad. Sadly, there was not one available anywhere nearby that had the same microfarad range (part 275464-113, 220V, uF 105-126). I ended up buying a whole new well controller and replaced the other one, which was pretty simple. Funny enough, when I opened up the new one it had almost the exact same start capacitor in it, only difference was the brand. I'm back up and running now. However, I am curious. There was a 220V start capacitor with a uF of 108-130, had I used that would that have been a huge issue? I don't know what pump I have, it was installed by the previous owner and we've not had the well serviced since we bought the house 3 years ago.
As long as the voltage rating is the same or better and it has the same or more capacitance (assuming it's a start capacitor), you should be fine.
I recently moved into my home that has city water and sewer. However, there is a well system that is not functional that I would like to use for my outside spigots.
I have not dug too deeply into this but when I switch the breaker “on” my voltage sniffer detects voltage at the line that goes down the well to the pump.
My question is, could the problem still be a bad control box and that the voltage I am detecting is not sufficient to start the pump ?
My estimate is that the pump has not been used for at least ten years and according to the installation manual that was found by the control box it was installed in 1990, it’s probably dead but I would like to see if there is a possible cheap fix rather than pulling the pump and replacing that, only to find the control was what was at fault.
A visual inspection of the control box shows that the capacitor “dot” is yellow and the capacitor, although not bulging, has leaked something that is now dried and crusty.
I guess my question is, will I still be able to sniff voltage at the well shaft with a control box that is bad.
Yes, it will still pass voltage through. I would recommend purchasing a new control box and hoping that fixes the issue. You can buy them at rcworst.com
@@RCworstwaterThanks ! I have been able to source the replacement capacitor locally, same specs as that which is looking to have blown. Am I wasting my time replacing just that or is it necessary to replace the whole control box. If I do replace the box, what is the estimated shipping time to CT and which box would you recommend. The box I have is for 230V 1/2 HP, three wire. I do not know what type of pump is in the well but I'll have to assume it's a 1/2 HP.
@@Mandinka711 You can try replacing just the capacitor and see if that works. A lot of times, when one component in a box fails the other components fail shortly after, which is why we recommend replacing the whole box. Here's a link to the one you need: www.rcworst.com/Franklin-Electric-2801054915-QD-Submersible-Motor-Control-Box-0-5-HP-230V-1PH-For-3-Wire-Motors-p197.html
@@RCworstwater Yeah, I had already bought the capacitor so I figured I would replace that. Nothing. So I then tested the relay using your video. I have the blue relay but mine is rated 1/2 HP 230 V. I disconnected the relay and my results were CAP-B - nothing. B-L1 I got 0.3 Ohms.
Does that suggest the relay is bad. If it is I'll buy a new box. I'm trying to eliminate the issues without spending more money on parts I don't actually need. If it's not then presumably I have to pull the pump. Is there a way to test the pump is at least still connected rather than there being a bad splice somewhere ? Is there a way to test the pump itself without pulling it ? Thanks.
I have an older version of the Franklin control box in this video. I have had to reset it twice this week. Never had to do it in the 10+ years I have had this well. Any thoughts as to why it’s happening? Thanks
Chris, we have a video on troubleshooting overloads. Find it here: ua-cam.com/video/1_93mYBh8BM/v-deo.html
Voltage Leak to ground in cable or pump motor windings
I have a F.E deluxe control box for my 2HP pump. My pump keeps running even after the pressure switch trips to turn it off resulting in over pressure and a watery mess. Why would the pump keep running after the pressure switch tells it not to?? :(
Tested the Overloads and they are reading 0.8 which is above the 0.5 the box says they should be below. Now. This said... the lowest option on the selector dial of my cheap multimeter is 200 ... so is that potentially adding in a factor of 2 since it is 200 not 100? The next setting up is also 2000 not 1000 so I am thinking I need to divide all my results by 2?
Just rewatched the video and his is at a setting of 200 as well. So. What does it mean if the Overloads are reading too high a resistance?
@@russellparker5043 You meter display is 3-1/2 digits, meaning it reads from 0.000 to 1.999 (or some other decimal point position). That's why the ranges are 200, 2000, etc. The reading is still ohms, not doubled. You should first touch your probes together to see what reading you get, and subtract that from the reading on the overloads, so you're not counting the resistance in the probe wires. And your meter is not trustworthy at such low ohm values, so I wouldn't assume that an 0.8 ohm reading is necessarily diagnostic of a faulty overload.
Thumbs up to hunting season!
My pump flow is low, could one of these capacitors be bad?
Does anyone know the part number for the silver relay?
We have a Franklin control box on our well. We bought the house 14 years ago and were shown the reset button on the bottom when we were buying it. Since then, and probably before, the button trips sometimes 2-3 times a day and sometimes not for a week or two. What should I be checking for to find out why? Most times it's not bad but if we're in the shower and it trips we have to go out, fully soaped up, and press the buttom on the bottom. Our pump house is about 100' out from the house and it is a pain. It also happens when doing laundry so the whole load has to be redone. I can't think of anything that trips it consistently, it's random. What should I be testing and what might be the problem? Like I said it has been going on for 14 years and my wife is very tired of it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. model #2823008110 1.5hp
Did you ever figure out what the problem was?
much appreciated ! great content!
Glad it was helpful!
Great videos. I'm troubleshooting my box and noted that the start overload fuse keeps opening following a lightning strike. Resistance across posts is well above the 0.5 ohm stated as the max. Checked capacitors and relay and that all seems well. Anyone know where I can buy the overload fuses? I cant find them anywhere
I got a few at Ace Hardware. You probably already have you system back up ny now though
My box has a switch in the upper left corner of the box that works in conjunction with the pressure switch.
The water quit flowing, I pressed the reset and this switch activated with a lot of arching & sparking then tripped off and it will not reset again.
I can't get a replacement switch till Monday if at all and was wondering if I could bypass it?
No, it is needed to switch the pump on/off.
So my well quit. I followed these tests and had a bad start capacitor. Replaced that but still no water. The question I have is that my overloads test high: left is 5.5 right is 1.86 what does that tell me is wrong? Your video did not specify.
Donde puedo en contrar el capacitor
Great video. I would not trust the measurements from a $18 multimeter and I would recommend using a meter that actually measures capacitance.
good afternoon, my control box is disarming. What can it be? The model is the S-20.
it is single-phase, the wire is 6 mm.

After taking my Franklin control box apart, everything seems to test ok, but the capacitor has leaked some of its guts it appears so I suspect it may be bad..I wasn't able to perform the micro farad test..I bought a control box from the local store but it's not a Franklin, doesn't have a No load protector and the lines are slightly different...(red goes to relay and black goes to capacitor) so I'm reticent to try it...The pump has been starting then stopping with no water pressure..I suspect the line might be frozen? Or could it be the box? And I'm tempted to try the new controller ( was told they are universal which I suspect isn't true) just to see..so I'm at a crux...any suggestions...by the way, I live in remote Haines Alaska, so it's not easy to get the correct parts except by mail...
Also the motor windings test with good resistance...
What do I do if i have 2.9 ohms at overload when testing, it trips randomly.
There should be no continuity if it is not tripped. I would recommend replacing the overload.
So I get no resistance reading on one of the overload buttons. The meter shows OL no matter what. How do I replace just the overload buttons?
Eric Grose you have to buy a new well pump and control box, and usually need an entire new well drilled when that happens. But seriously, did you ever find out?
@@Samlol23_drrich I replaced the control box and everything worked again.
Eric Grose Seriously? There was no way of replacing just the buttons? I have the same issue
@@marsogreen2411 I tried tracking down those button assemblies by the numbers on them but couldn't find anything. So I gave up. I consider the old box spare parts.😀
We sell them, just give us a call: 855.329.4519
My waterwell has a pump tec control box and the load light is shining and no water.What does that mean?
relay 5 HP-15 HP FRANKLIN 155031601 as it works in the box in conjunction with the capaitadores
Can you make a video with an expensive fluke
What if the overload is tripped and it won't stay back down?
If the capacitor is fully charged and you put an ohmeter on the terminals, won't it discharge and blow out your meter?
You are correct. It is best practice to short the capacitor with an insulated screwdriver prior to testing.
my question is the following as it is the formula to place capacitors to the motor at least 5.5 hp and if it is within your reach the diagram of the box of layers that you have in your hands also that suncion makes this relay RELAY 5HP-15HP FRANKLIN 155031601 as I know the component that stops a relay that is a lightning arrestor that is connected in the wiring that goes along with the capacitors as I am when it is good or damaged like the relay 5HP-15HP FRANKLIN 155031601 when it is damaged
The continuity between 1 and 2 is '0'. Those contacts are closed, not open?
The resistance is 0 - meaning complete continuity and the contacts are closed
@@RCworstwater I agree. But in the video, I believe you state that the contacts are open? Maybe I misheard... Sorry if I did.
I got zero reading on my overloads (non tripped) this lead me to buy a new box because I had everything else . Brand new box also one reads 0 one .1ohm . Zero is an acceptable reading . If it were tripped as in switch tripped connection to power is broken and would show O.L .
That is correct. Less than .5 ohms is a good reading.
@@RCworstwater yes I’ve come to understand that. Perhaps you misspoke in video and written introduction online and meant o.l reading would indicate tripped overloads instead of 0.
2hp submersible, not working. Power company ripped through a line a few hundred yards away while trimming trees, actually had cut all the way through. Claimed it didn't hurt anything. I replaced bad control box, relay and capacitors cooked. Started up and ran great for 3 days. Several hours a day (because lack of rain and pond is drying up, only use for that well) and then day 4 it just stopped. was pumping about 5gal/10 sec. I opened control box, one blk wire to black capacitor had not been crimped at factory properly and was loose as I was looking around and relay points were burned. I replaced capacitor with a good one, and sanded points in relay. Turned on and all I get is a spark from white relay box. Black capacitor not affected. Good pressure switch, new relief valve, wondering what they will say if I try to return box that had loose wire to the connector. Thanks for any suggestions!!
Thank you for the video. Have replaced the control box twice over the years (can get it for about $160 on amazon) but now I can just replace the bad parts for much less. I have the same question another person asked about the relay resistance. You say 4.7 - 7.0 Ω and we can't see what scale you are on with the video resolution, but then you move the switch three positions to the x1 scale, suggesting that you were on the x1000 scale when you measured resistance initially. So should it be 4.7 - 7.0 kΩ?
No more plug in modules, or the royal blue painted control box as was with Jacuzzi well pumps. I'd be very concerned about using a very inexpensive multi-meter, as they do not have many safety features which protect the user as found in a Amprobe or Fluke. A great example of quality is the video of EEVblog 1377 - The Amazing UNPREDICTABILITY of Fuses! used in cheap verses quality multimeters.
At 4:56 or so you state that something is already tripped. No idea what you are saying. Cant make it out. What is already tripped. Think you are talking about the overloads but cant understand the word you used. Listened to it 3 or 4 times but still no idea what you said.
He said that if you do not get any reading between the points on the overload that means it has already tripped. You'll need push it back in and take another reading.
Wiring diagram
Wrong size pressure switch for that 3 hp box. 9013-GSG2 is the proper size
Any size pressure switch will work with a deluxe control box
What is the purpose of the control box.
I have had a well water supply in two different states.
The wiring was hooked directly into the pressure switch.
Control boxes are required for 3-wire pumps because the starting components are not built-in to the motors. You can learn more by watching this video: ua-cam.com/video/86oOOCKJgWg/v-deo.html
Zero ohms 10:44 across a set of contacts means it is open? 10:49. This is complete nonsense, zero ohms across a set of points is a 100% sure indication that the contacts are closed.
Agree - I opened my relay and confirmed it is normally closed. Also agree with the correction that the coil resistance is 4.5 - 7 kohms, not 4.5 - 7 ohms.
Buy a tru RMS meter.
That 19 dollar meter will have you chasing a ghost.
Benarts
Tlg dong terjemahkan ke bhs indonesia.. Please...
He does't know what he is talking about.
What setting are you on for testing the compositors