Modding my Yamaha MC2404-II mixer - Part 2 - The Parts, The Mod, The Results

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  • Опубліковано 4 вер 2016
  • In part 1, I had a lot of ambition for this test. Once I started making modifications in strategic increments, I began to realize that the mod was not changing the sound in almost any way at all.
    I chose to run a stereo track through the mixer pre-mod, and post mod at 4 stages. In all the stages I heard no noticeable difference at all. This led me to abandon the project and to reset the mixer back to its original pre-mod state.
    Nevertheless, I show you guys many pictures, describe the mod in great detail, outline my process, and I run through a tightly controlled test that aims to show you what exactly changes once you've completed a mod of this kind.
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КОМЕНТАРІ • 16

  • @electragirl2
    @electragirl2 6 років тому +7

    Congratulations on your undertaking. I can hear a difference through my speakers with every step of your modifications. The first op amp switch is the biggest difference. There's an improvement in dynamics and timing. The channel cap switch is the next biggest improvement. A warm wet tone where sounds tail off (fade away) more smoothly. The next two mod stages are smaller but noticeable improvements. Sort of like using a better quality guitar cable. The whole mixer will benefit from your work on the main stage and now you have 4 super channels! Thanks for documenting your endeavors.

  • @gks6022
    @gks6022 5 років тому +6

    I know this thread is a bit old, but a couple of things to know: 1. Re-capping is performed because electrolytic (can type) capacitors dry out with age. Drying out means the dielectric material in the cap starts to oxidize and performance degrades to the point of opening or shorting out. When replacing them, you can go higher in voltage rating, but don't change the uf rating unless you're aware of how the capacitance change will affect the circuit, that's a mistake you do not want to make unless you're experienced.The uf rating is calculated to determine the feedback loop for the op amps, coloring the audio in the EQ, and filtering in the supply rails. 2. Changing the op-amps is an easy upgrade and the change you get is lower noise and (usually) faster response. If you change one amp, change them all. Same with caps. Get a schematic to see where the caps are applied and work in sections Start with the power supply, then the channel stripes, then the EQ. In the EQ section you'l see ceramic caps, it's always a good idea to replace these with tantalums since ceramic caps can be telephonic. At the end of the day, unless the board is really trash, you're not going to see a ton of difference in audio quality. Yes, you will measure some but unless you make calculated alterations in the pre's and EQ you're simply going back to a less noisy original version. 3. Direct Outs...they're a great way to smoke your channel strips unless you buffer them. If you short the channel outboard of the mixer, you'll drag down the rail and end up having to rebuild it. Short story is: replace caps with same uf value, voltage can go higher but not lower. Start with cleaning up the power supply first...the conditioned supply voltage affects everything else, no point rebuilding a pre if your supply is dirty. Finally, any outboard additions (directs) should be buffered (unity gain op-amps) and you're good to go.

  • @Beelzybud
    @Beelzybud 3 роки тому +2

    I was thinking of swapping op-amps on my yamaha mixer. I think you just saved me the time, so thanks.

  • @miahmcbride5415
    @miahmcbride5415 4 роки тому +2

    Awesome video!! I just picked up one of these boards from a friend of a friend!! Thanks for all the info!!

  • @GeorgeSladkovsky
    @GeorgeSladkovsky 7 років тому +4

    I can hear the difference between modded and unmodded version. And I can hear it only through my HD650 cans. It's REALLY hard to hear it on my Yamaha HS8 though... So hard that I'm not sure if it is even there :D But as you said, this difference is negligible if you consider the effort that was put into it. Original vs "through the console" comparison though was much more prominent. Low end punch and high end warmth are definitely audible. A lot of audio hardware modding is very subtle and sometimes only "true audiophiles" can hear it... 95% of the time it is a waste of money and effort. Great experiment though! Thanks!

    • @VintiqueSound
      @VintiqueSound  7 років тому

      Thanks. I have very similar thoughts on the matter. I can hear a difference when using my Focal Spirit headphones. But as you put it, all of the work that is required to perform the mod is negligible at best and thus is not worth the effort. But straight out of the box vs. running it through the board is not negligible, it's actually quite noticeable.
      Good to hear your thoughts. Cheers!

  • @mischfrequenz
    @mischfrequenz 3 роки тому +1

    Hi thank you for sharing this!
    in the moment i mod a dda forum and experiment with diferent capacitors. Elba Silmic, Panasonic FC and FR/FM and Muse KZ.
    They sound different in my ears now i choose: Master Elna, Tape Returns Fc, Eq Way in all channels Elna, All channels seperate Muse or FR/FM.
    .....much work and time needed...

    • @mischfrequenz
      @mischfrequenz 3 роки тому

      for current stabilisation on each channel FM/FR

  • @ladyleusaestudiodemusica8740
    @ladyleusaestudiodemusica8740 4 роки тому +1

    if you put a tube on the signal path you'll see some kind of difference ;D

  • @emmanuelcauvet8581
    @emmanuelcauvet8581 Рік тому +1

    Hi , i wonder if Can tell if it has transformer in or out? Thank you

  • @michaelcake3186
    @michaelcake3186 7 років тому +1

    did you push the console ? or just run it cold? Im not familiar with this board but changing the caps will help the console under full load to run better , Also i have a large format analog console that's not serviced , and you can really hear the difference between a channel that has more juice with a channel that has less.

    • @VintiqueSound
      @VintiqueSound  7 років тому

      When I ran a test, I was running the audio through pretty hot, and the channel faders were at about 75% fader height. I tried with all the EQ knobs set to unity and then bass and treble turned up quite high, and couldn't definitively tell whether the new caps and whatnot made any difference at all.
      I could have ran it hotter, but considering the fact that I'm very likely going to mix in a very similar way as my test settings were at (75% fader height, significant EQ cuts and boosts) and considering the large amount of work I put into it, I decided that the entire project was not worth it whatsoever.
      I still have the test files and would like to run a null test in a video to present all my results in an informative video, just haven't gotten around to it yet.

  • @marcusholder495
    @marcusholder495 Рік тому

    What do you think about the Yamaha
    M916

  • @shakleton768S
    @shakleton768S 6 років тому +1

    try recording a bass guitar through 1 new channel and exact same through 1 old. then compare... easier to identify the diff. at least you understand your board way better now

  • @garywayne2690
    @garywayne2690 3 роки тому +3

    If you would replace the caps with nichicon capacitors you would hear a big Difference!..

  • @CharlesK441
    @CharlesK441 7 років тому +2

    Do a NULL test