the Corne keyboard: an honest review
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- Опубліковано 3 лип 2024
- pls don't mind the background noises it was a busy day for some reason
This is a review of the Corne keyboard that I bought, but may not apply to all Corne keyboards.
Luna keyboard pet by HellTM, originally on the Sofle: • How to Adopt Luna - QM...
Here's the code I use: github.com/underlune/qmk_firm...
Switches fall out through the acrylic case. The fact is that the upper acrylic body has a thickness of more than 2 mm. The switches are well fixed in the case approximately 1,5 mm thick. I'm using a 1.6mm thick fr4 corne keyboard, and I haven't had any issues with the switches falling out for 10 months. Although used different switches from different manufacturers.
Thanks for the review! I was thinking about buying this board for quite a while, and now I'm sure I need to get one!
the editing is hilarious, thanks for the honest review!
Nice video v cool slime ASMR clearly ahead of the curve
Love the editing style
this was really entertaining, also thanks for your honest review!
Nice review and insight, earned a sub!
Thanks for the doing the work getting Luna on the CRKBD! I was about to do that myself...pretty sure that's how I got here. In regards to the Zealios falling out, that acrylic plate is too thick for the switches to clip into and because of how thick it that plate is, there's less pin for the hotswap sockets to hang onto as well. I'm thinking the only reason the Boba U4Ts stayed in place is because the pins are pretty thick. If you switch to a case with with a thinner switch plate, you should have no problem with switches falling out. The least expensive option would be going with a case that includes an FR4 plate :>
Great video again! About the coding frustration, don't worry, we all have it. Just get used that most of the time coding is about debugging (and testing) ;)
thank you for your feedback of experience with the keyboard
I just ordered an non-assembled kit or crkbd a day or two before I watched this review video. That will be my first custom built keyboard (last one was a prebuilt keyboardio Atreus and I face the same problem as your Planck). I enjoyed a lot watching your comments and experience while waiting on mine to arrive lol. Thanks for sharing! One comment on the falling apart switches: it looks to me the filing of switch holes on the upper panel matters. After studying my Atreus I found that the hot-swappable switches are clipped to the front panel so it's possible that acrylic panel is too soft to hold the clips.
Well, a short comment after using corne for a while... It feels great. Switches don't fall off. The hot swap sockets will have glitches once in a while: some keys don't register and you'll need to replug that switch and that's all.
Your barking really caught me of guard 😂
Great video, thanks for your insight!
wow unique keyboard and personality. lets see more in the future!
Bro, I'm front end develop about a 10 years or so , and I had a lot of headache with QMK firmware, so congrast to build your corne and programing your own keymaps
This was so helpful!
great review
holy, this sounds so good. esp for a split keeb
I had the same issue with mine. The issue for me, was the plate on the back pushing the keys out of the sockets.
My solution was to ditch the sockets, and solder the keys directly to the board 🤷♂️
Amazing video! Please make more content 🙏
I built a different keyboard, but had the acrylic plate problem. If you just get a shorter spacer the keyswitches will seat fully and stay in place. (My Lily58 called for 7mm spacers, but with acrylic case, 6mm allowed the switches to fully seat in the socket. That might also fix your switch retention struggles.
I had the same problem with the acrylic plates. The plates are too thick to make the switches snap in properly. I have heard that some people hotglue them in place or cut/file the plate thinner but I have not tried it myself yet.
I had the same issue so what I did is I bought smaller spacers and my plates are snug with the pcb now
I just built my crkbd lp 5 col with n!n like 2weeks ago and coming from a normal staggered 65% keyboard it is a game changer. I struggled a bit with all the different layers and now I am so accostume to it I can not conformtably go back to my other keyboard. However, in some occasion I just have a short circuit in my mind and have to take 3s to figure it out where is the key I want to use, even thought it is one I have a lot(this happens more frequently when I am exhausted)
I have a brass plate for my get and since then I've never had an issue with this, but the plate file probably matters more
I am in love :/
Have you ever thought about converting your keyboard into a split keyboard that supports Bluetooth
Do you know where you got the guides for customizing the oleds? I can’t seem to find any
Here's a general guide by Joe Scotto that you might find helpful: ua-cam.com/video/OJSOEStpPIo/v-deo.html
For the animated keyboard dog, I got it from HellTM's video! They put it in the sofle but you can copy the section under OLED and it will work just fine with the crkbd. Here's their github: github.com/HellSingCoder/qmk_firmware/blob/master/keyboards/sofle/keymaps/helltm/
I also suggest going thru the other users in the crkbd github and checking out the animations that they've created! It may take some fine tuning but it will be pretty satisfying when you get it done :)
Nice.
I don't have acrylic top/bottom plate, mine are made of FR4 (same material as the PCB) and the switches are definitely not going anywhere and well "clipped" onto the top plate. They even stay put when removing tight keycaps. The only way to get them out is to use a switch puller and actually depress the clips.I recommend you ditch this acrylic top plate and use only the FR4 one. On the bottom, your probably want the opposite and only have the acrylic plate for the under-glow to be visible.
oh wow! i'll look or someone making those for the corne
@@samiscoolbeams At first I thought you already had one, but it looks that the black "thing" you put under the acrylic top plate is something else. A PCB manufacturer like JLCPCB can make them but there is a minimum quantity of 5 and they will probably charge additional fees because of all the holes, or decline to manufacture because some borders are only 2mm wide and they have a minimum of 4mm. You need a bit of luck with the review process. Otherwise, the place that sold you this acrylic case probably have a FR4 option, but then you will probably need to (re)buy the whole case including the bottom plates. Strangely enough, nobody sells a case with FR4 top plate and acrylic bottom plate which would provider proper fixing for the switch and under-glow.
@@xavierthomas1980 the seller unfortunately only has acrylic plates, but i'm looking at another seller that might have it.
I have FR4 top plates and have the same problem she has. It is not like every hour or so. But it tend to be annoying.
@@RodrigoRodriguez-wl9vl Sorry to ear that, and double sorry for the bad advice. This makes me think the issue is more related to tolerances and fabrication process than the material or thickness. It still might have something to do with the switches, although my plates worked very well with all the switches I tested.
Heyy from Argentina. Cool vids. I'm daily driving a corne with acrilic plates and I can't say i've had the same issue because my board is currently not hotswap so maybe the soldering keeps the whole thing toghether?
Yo me estoy haciendo un hot swap, espero no clavarme
the problem you are talking about in the beginning of the video is related to your top plate: it is too thick.
wtih all those animation and layer indication settings, how many layers are you able to use on your keyboard? I'm actually about to order a corne DIY kit, but saw on reddit (or somewhere else, don't remember) that VIA only supports 4 layers by default and I have to go thru setting/code changes in order to have more layers enabled.
my board fit 4 layers with the animations. yes you could fit more by programming! you'll just have to watch the memory capacity of your board. my setup took up maybe 90% of the memory.
@@samiscoolbeams Thanks for the reply! My kit is still to be shipped, and this will be my very first DIY keyboard project. That being said, is that a way to check the memory capacity on the OLED? I probably would end up wanting more than 4 layers so will use a simplified version of your code...Thanks in advance!
I want to build the same thing but am worried about the switch falling out thing. If you find the solution can you make an update video, I'll subscribe waiting for that!
I solved this with 3 mm neoprene foam in between the PCB and bottom plate. No problems since! Also probably dampens the noise a bit too.
Girl, nice you need to buy the separated arm wrest, or you can just buy two arm wrest for mouse. Nice video tho, and please post your other social medial account info maybe?
they should not fall out, never.
I have a friend who has an acrylic keeb with the same switch popping issue. To fix it he sanded the edges of each of the slots in the plate.
oh wow that sounds kind of scary though... i'm terrified of damaging the plate but i guess i'll have to try it out!
@@samiscoolbeams Don't sand it too much though; just enough to make the edge a bit less sharp
I am considering to switch to Corne keyboard from Anne Pro 2 & GK64XS. This is not the review I expect, lol. I've never seeing switches "fly away" from the plane and considering you encounter bad QC, do you?
after a year of using this board, i found the issue is gone with some switches that are slightly larger or maybe with a different housing material. i switched to boba u4ts and the problem went away :) also took out the plate foam as it seemed to be too thick
Ya, I think so too. I'got my 1st crkbd on last Sat. And start learning QMK and configuring layouts now. The man who built the crkbd for me, told me that after he changing the thickness of the plate to 3mm (a.k.a. thicker), no more chances of loosing switches (but the change created a new problem: some switches are bigger then the standard in their bottom part of housing, and they are hard to be put into the sockets.). (background info: I use Anne Pro 2 for 5 yrs, and then GK64XS for 0.5 yr, and now starting using a crkbd). The board is really compact and powerful. I am a linear-lover. I use Gateron white Pro (~37g) and now putting Princess v2 (38g x6 and 28g x 15 on each hand). Is Boba u4t a very heavy switch?@@samiscoolbeams
Hi Sammy, is there a reason you chose the Corne over the Lily58 or Iris?
just didn't need the number row! :)
@@samiscoolbeams Thank you! Your keyboard videos have been insightful
I finally learned how to pronounce Kyria.
Can confirm, programming is 80% debugging
Go Sammy hahaha
You could totally get into coding, you just need to start at the beginning and slowly work your way through a tutorial / Udemy video etc - it takes time but it's worth it.
I kinda get from your slight accent you are from PH? great review btw !
yes!! i bought the bobas from you LMAO
@@samiscoolbeams cool beans !!! :D hit us up and do a collab :D or let me know how we can reach you
wow sure! you can dm on my instagram @tiutiutraen :)
uwu just gotta get oled animations and maybe those feet
Ok. I think after this video I want to get married :3 ruaf ruaf
cute mo po
"I don't understand logic because I'm stupid"
Why I didn't pursue CS in college in a nutshell HAHAHA
The rise of the queen
thank you messiah of tacos
dun dun dun
Try choc switches sooon 🍫
planning to get a different board for that! it's going to be fun
awww u r so cute
"I don't understand logic cuz I'm stupid", yes sam me too
shush i know ur smarter than me
@@samiscoolbeams *shocked face* excuse you dear, I beg to differ ahahahah