6013 is usually my last choice, but I have a lot of respect for the welder who can do quality work with the tools/materials at hand. For me it's that sneaky slag that drives me crazy, but maybe that's just something I need to work on. It does have a great shelf life, it seems to be almost the only rod they sell in some of the tropical/ developing countries (Indonesia/ Phillipines). The flux is essentially a ceramic (oxides). You'd probably be safe buying a 30yr. old box at an estate sale unless it was really rusty.
Es el tipo de varilla que cualquier maquina puede quemar, es lo más adecuados para los aceros de bajo carbono que compran los herreros para hacer parrillas, mesas, sillas, estanterías, etc, allí donde no tiene sentido usar otro tipo de varilla. Yo también uso 6013 para casi todo, porque también uso varilla 316 L y 7018 cuando necesito reparar una herramienta o hacer una casera con un acero al carbono. Luego te acostumbras a la escoria del 6013.
Here In Australia 6013 is pretty much the general purpose welding rod and Probably the first rod you will weld with. Commonly available in 2.5mm ( 3/32) and 3.2mm (1/8) sizes because that is what a 240v single phase buzz box or a 10 amp solid state welder will run. Though 4mm is not hard to find in trade stores. . a bit of a blunt instrument. Better to run them in the hotter half of the amp range or slag inclusion will be a PITA . not known for it's deep penetration. . Generic brands will cost you around $25AU for a 5KG ( 10LB) box. Better brands will cost you about $40AU Satincraft 13, a bit of a cult rod that a lot of us learned on 30/40 years ago, will cost you silly money.
6011 is good for dirty, rusty and painted metal. The number 1 in 6013 makes it an all position electrode. Both are considered farmer rod. Before GMAW was popular 6013 was use a lot for sheet metal.
6013 can be a real devil. If you keep a tight arc, run it on the hot side and wet in both sides of a corner joint well in, you hardly have slag inclusions otherwise it can be a nightmare. If you can run 6013 well you can run the other types wel (perhaps starts and stops 7018 may be difficult). I noticed that bigger rod diameter for 6013 with thicker steel makes it easier. I like the 1/8" size for some kind of reason best. The run it as hot as possible I learned from Jody from "welding tips and tricks".
Yah, long arcing only at start to heat up quickly. If you keep tight arc like 7018 and run it as hot as possible no issues. You can even have a steeper angle. A lot of people advice a low angle to push the slag back but if you run it hot that is less important. Wetting it in well on both sides virtually prevents slag side inclusions. I think the 7014 is the better version of the 6013 great for tacking. It has more ironpowder in the flux.
In Europe they use 6013 for coded pipe work. My hats off to them. A tip one of the guys from UK told me was to get Esab Sureweld brand 6013. He said they are the best. I've never had the chance to try any yet. God bless
With 6013 you have a high volume of slag and I have found that you get better results if you lay the rod back enough to use your arc to keep the slag back behind the puddle if you don't you get worm tracks porosity and under cut.
6013 surely like it a little on the hot side, helps with the slag a little. If you are slightly colder than it should be, you have a bunch of inclusions, lack of fusion and bad looking weld. And it likes a little more steep angle, which also helps with the slag.
I keep some 3/32 6013 around for fixing wear though spots on my combine because the metal is so thin The old short hood can weld some pretty thin metal with that That’s the best use I have found for it
Hey Austin..good go at it..was 6GR coded in UK pipe work and pressure vessels.and used ESAB O.K. 6013 most of time..the go too rod..can be used in all positions sweet rod to use. and clean. Any thing more demanding used 48P 7018 low/hydg .. just down size that rod for the first pass..would never go straight in with a 4mmm rod go smaller then stringer it . miss those days
Hey Austin , I don't know who told you that 6013 is not an all position welding rod but they're incorrect infact this is what Lincoln electric says about it 'The E6013 is an all purpose, all position electrode with a stable, easily handled arc. Spatter loss is low, and the weld metal solidifies quickly leaving a closely rippled deposit with good bead appearance." 6013 is also not designed to cut through rust only 6010 or 6011 are so you should prep your base metal before welding so you have proper fusion. Now jetrod or E7024 on the otherhand is the welding electrode that is typically only ran in horizontal or flat position because of its depository rate. I've ran it overhead myself but most companies don't recommend it as an all position rod.
High Austin, if you fleetweld 35 is a standard 6011 good for rust,unclean material., fleetweld 35s is good for oily and dirty material., fleetweld 35ls, or fleetweld 180 is for éxtrime rust, demed coat, galvanized material. Depending on Appalachian needed. It is ann Ac-Dc rod + or - polatery. 1/8" preferred. E6013 is mainly Ac,... but can be used on DC . It is all position according to the ( 1 ) . It is good on farm equipment repairs, refacing turning plow's ECT........, home repairs........ Use small circles, 1/8". 10:01 preferred. Hope that I was able to help you. Be blessed and be safe,nol
Bob Moffat said he would never use 6013 for anything important. Poor penetration and brittle. He said it is useful for tacking with a 7018 cover because it lights and restarts easily. I think it is specifically developed to weld sheet metal for floors or skins.
Yes that is what I heard and I haven't saw him on there in the last year or two. I could have heard wrong or maybe a rumer but I haven't saw him on in a good while. When I heard he'd passed, I think of a heart attack, I was truly saddened.😢. I've been looking for him every video they put out but it's like a whole new crew. It would take a crew to try to replace him. I hope I'm wrong. But I watch almost every video they drop and haven't saw him in a year or more. I'm going to try to find out. God bless y'all, work safe.
3:50 you can see with your first upsweep on the pipe you are a bit warm, too deep just a bit and getting that overhang. Sweeping through the “U” faster would compensate, but cranking her down just a smidge would allow you to maintain consistent quality welds. Good videos.
It is the 6011 electrode that can weld through rust is the sister Rod to 6010 and I like 6010 which can only run on direct current 6011 is a dual polarity electrode 6013 likes clean metal
have some rusty, with some paint beam to weld. My flux core mig is not doing great so i plan to try 6011 stick to see how it does. should i use AC/DCEP or DCEN? thank for any input you can give me.
@@peetky8645either ac or dc will work fine , it definitely likes dc better tho. I’m patching a dump truck bed right now and using a tombstone (AC) , a little finicky at first but I’m getting used to it. Good luck on your project!
6013 produces too much slag. I have found that it is good for sheet metal, as you can turn way down and still keep it lit. For me, I wouldn't weld anything load bearing with 6013...That's just me though. Thanks for your helpful videos.
6013 is meant for a farming rod a lot of farmers use it. You can weld an all position. You can weld it with pipe downhill as well. 332 thick rod is what I have experience running pipe downhill in the greenhouses. With
Why don't you try cut and etch test on them? It's easy cheap and you can tell a lot about your welds. Just cut it through the throat of the weld polish it down to about 600 grit with a flapper wheel, and then take some naval jelly and rub it on with a Q-tip give it about 5 minutes, and it'll show most, if not all inclusions and imperfections. HAZ, penetration fusion or lack thereof. Just be careful with the naval jelly, wear safety glasses, and rubber gloves. God bless y'all, and work safe.
to be precise Austin, you are welding horizontal, not flat......flat would be where the material on a fillet is like a v trough..... and when you mention weld settings on your machine, you are not giving the amps, just the range and percentage, for those who are not familiar with the way some machines have 'gears' and ranges and percentages, it is almost impossible for them to know what amps a machine is set to......maybe do a video on what those ranges [gears] and percentages actually mean in amps......cheers, Paulie Brown
6013 was designed for outside corner joints on sheetmetal. It's lays a nice looking bead,but keep it tight and MOVE! It really has limited practical use today, the A/C 'buzzbox' guys like it for mower decks.
Wow, very, very interesting. Would a guy typically run it downhill or uphill or horizontal or any of the above in this situation on the outside corner of sheet metal?
That makes a lot of sense. 6013 makes a good bond with the base metal, but likes to sit on top of it, not burn in like 6011. An outside corner weld is one place you don't want to burn in. Harbor Freight has kept 1/16" 6013 in stock for several years. Since 6013 is an all-position electrode, I bet a lot of it has been used of mufflers/exhaust pipes, and maybe some on sheet-metal auto-body patches. Most red-blooded regular guys know that the odds of a mother-in- law going under a car to inspect a weld is zero. The father-in-law can be told "Sir, I know I'm no professional, if you could show me how it's done I would be grateful." Your own parents know you all too well, but they probably want grand children and/or continued access to pre-existing grandchildren. A weld bead that sits on top of the base metal (sheet-metal) isn't the worst thing when you just want to fix a rusted-out muffler, etc.
@@arossweldingIm no pro welder just a farmer that has taught himself some stuff. I would never use it down hill only uphill. For me the slag is too much and runs over your rod. If you try to push it over the puddle with your arc you will need to turn tour machine up high enough to make it burn through.
Here in South africa all your rods are basically 6013. You can get 7018 but it would be sold as specialty rods like cast or stainless rods. They are sold as all position and the brand makes a differance. The best is afrox vitemax but is stupid expensive up to five time the price of your general el cheapo. Clean or dirty makes a hell of a lot of slag and if you run it colder on thin wall it loves to over run the rod with slag and make it sputter and puke and make the welder need more time in church
5/32 6013 needs about 160 amps to run correct on DC+......big difference than a 3/32 7018 running below 100 amps.....for less penetration on thin material, DC- is the way to go.....more build up and less penetration.....
In this old weldors experience, nothing runs better on rusty dirty material......but cellulose rods, 6011, 6010, or any of the xx10 rods will run better on rust and dirt than any of the other types of rods due to there digging action.....xx12,13,14,15,16,18,22,24,28 do not have the penetration so really should only be used on clean material....I hope this may help....Paul
7014 and 6013 are basically the same rod, Rutile and Potassium......low penetration.....super smooth bead, you really have to watch out for lack of fusion......
You get undercut because you go from side to side to close, stay in middle and turn amps by 20% of regular flat bead. Very hard electrode at small diameters because thats slag wants to eat your arc!
6011 welds any kind of trash...6013 leaves beautiful weld like stainless ...but can crack upon cooling....great for ornamental non stress projects like fence or burglar bars...i wouldnt use 6013 on something i was rapelling from...ha ha...
Morning my brother, Now it's not that 6013 welding rods welds better on rust, all quality of welding rods, all areas that have to be weld must be clean before and after welding, now 6013 welding rods is a flexible welding rod, it's a rod that works better on ships and small boats for flexibility plus 6013 welding rods works better on carbon steels much better thak 7018 welding rods but most people or welders don't know this
Mine is DC Welding current but it has a C power to run power tools that require AC power. But they make mobile welders that are AC welding, current and DC welding current.
I’ve just started learning how to stick weld, and I much prefer 6013 to 7018. I find you can run it much lower amps, and the slag comes off a lot easier. Weld always looks better too. A little harder to strike an arch at time, but stays lit easier for me. It does smell different, worse I guess lol.
Hi I think you are okay with 6013 now because you are welding flat position only. When you start welding overhead and vertical your difficulties will begin with 6013
I finally decided to do a welding class. I was doing flat 3/32 6010 beads. I was suprised how easily i was running it. I got home and took the same rods i was using very good and couldnt do shit with my machine. I assume it was because at the school it was a very high dollar machine? Any ideas? I was using same settings
Craρρy run of the mill home inverter welders generally are not rated for the higher voltage 6010 requires. It's not only the current, if welder voltage is not enough, arc quenches randomly, you can't long arc even for a sec to manipulate your pool, you need some 40V! Now 6011 is supposed to have arc stabilisers hence can be used on AC and at lower arc voltage, but has nowhere near the aggressive arc of 6010, not really equivalent. Now if you want the shittiest electrode, try welding with 6013 downstream. Much worse than 7018.
Science Class time, so pay attention. 6010 is a High Cellulose Sodium flux. That flux means the rod needs a higher OCV (Open Circuit Voltage). For example, a Multimatic 220AC/DC has an OCV of 46 and is a nightmare to try and use the rods. I know from my experience using one at home. The OCV needs to be 60 or higher for a 6010 to light and be stable, preferably higher. 6011s are High Cellulose Potassium flux. The OCV to run them is lower because of this change. These rods might solve your problem. They run the same as 6010s, so there's nothing new you need to learn.
I let my 10 year old son weld with 6013 3/32 because it doesn’t splatter like the 6010, he can burn a full rod with no stops but it does t really get the penetration…
6013 is all I use. I like the way you keep an open mind on this rod. I appreciate it. Good video, enjoyed watching.👍👍
6013 is usually my last choice, but I have a lot of respect for the welder who can do quality work with the tools/materials at hand. For me it's that sneaky slag that drives me crazy, but maybe that's just something I need to work on.
It does have a great shelf life, it seems to be almost the only rod they sell in some of the tropical/ developing countries (Indonesia/ Phillipines). The flux is essentially a ceramic (oxides). You'd probably be safe buying a 30yr. old box at an estate sale unless it was really rusty.
Es el tipo de varilla que cualquier maquina puede quemar, es lo más adecuados para los aceros de bajo carbono que compran los herreros para hacer parrillas, mesas, sillas, estanterías, etc, allí donde no tiene sentido usar otro tipo de varilla. Yo también uso 6013 para casi todo, porque también uso varilla 316 L y 7018 cuando necesito reparar una herramienta o hacer una casera con un acero al carbono. Luego te acostumbras a la escoria del 6013.
6010 / 6011 will weld through rust. For 6013 you want reasonably clean metal like for 7018.
Here In Australia 6013 is pretty much the general purpose welding rod and Probably the first rod you will weld with.
Commonly available in 2.5mm ( 3/32) and 3.2mm (1/8) sizes because that is what a 240v single phase buzz box or a 10 amp solid state welder will run.
Though 4mm is not hard to find in trade stores.
.
a bit of a blunt instrument.
Better to run them in the hotter half of the amp range or slag inclusion will be a PITA
.
not known for it's deep penetration.
.
Generic brands will cost you around $25AU for a 5KG ( 10LB) box.
Better brands will cost you about $40AU
Satincraft 13, a bit of a cult rod that a lot of us learned on 30/40 years ago, will cost you silly money.
6011 is good for dirty, rusty and painted metal. The number 1 in 6013 makes it an all position electrode. Both are considered farmer rod. Before GMAW was popular 6013 was use a lot for sheet metal.
6013 is great for sheet metal. I am an industrial sheet metal worker and usually reach for 6013 or 6011. I love the way it smells when it burns
6013 can be a real devil. If you keep a tight arc, run it on the hot side and wet in both sides of a corner joint well in, you hardly have slag inclusions otherwise it can be a nightmare. If you can run 6013 well you can run the other types wel (perhaps starts and stops 7018 may be difficult). I noticed that bigger rod diameter for 6013 with thicker steel makes it easier. I like the 1/8" size for some kind of reason best. The run it as hot as possible I learned from Jody from "welding tips and tricks".
I agree with you on that, a long arc always gives me porosity.......cheers....Paul
Yah, long arcing only at start to heat up quickly. If you keep tight arc like 7018 and run it as hot as possible no issues. You can even have a steeper angle. A lot of people advice a low angle to push the slag back but if you run it hot that is less important. Wetting it in well on both sides virtually prevents slag side inclusions. I think the 7014 is the better version of the 6013 great for tacking. It has more ironpowder in the flux.
@@matthijsverweijmeren6114 Thanks for the tip bro 💪🏻
In Europe they use 6013 for coded pipe work. My hats off to them. A tip one of the guys from UK told me was to get Esab Sureweld brand 6013. He said they are the best. I've never had the chance to try any yet. God bless
Esa marca es la que hace electrodos verdes? Yo utilizo "Conarco" 6013 y "Esab Ok"
With 6013 you have a high volume of slag and I have found that you get better results if you lay the rod back enough to use your arc to keep the slag back behind the puddle if you don't you get worm tracks porosity and under cut.
The good Lord said never hate, then there was 6013
@@scottsharp9823 lol. 😊
Lol 😆, very true sir. God bless.
6013 surely like it a little on the hot side, helps with the slag a little. If you are slightly colder than it should be, you have a bunch of inclusions, lack of fusion and bad looking weld.
And it likes a little more steep angle, which also helps with the slag.
Totalmente de acuerdo con usted 💪🏻
I keep some 3/32 6013 around for fixing wear though spots on my combine because the metal is so thin
The old short hood can weld some pretty thin metal with that
That’s the best use I have found for it
Hey Austin..good go at it..was 6GR coded in UK pipe work and pressure vessels.and used ESAB O.K. 6013 most of time..the go too rod..can be used in all positions sweet rod to use. and clean. Any thing more demanding used 48P 7018 low/hydg .. just down size that rod for the first pass..would never go straight in with a 4mmm rod go smaller then stringer it . miss those days
I've used the 6011 for thin , paint covered material as well as rusty material.
I've used the 6013 rod for thin or galvanized material 👍
6013 is one of the best for at home diy and repair, especially thinner material
Thanks for the great video and information Austin. Keep em coming and stay safe around there. Fred.
Hey Austin , I don't know who told you that 6013 is not an all position welding rod but they're incorrect infact this is what Lincoln electric says about it 'The E6013 is an all purpose, all position electrode with a stable, easily handled arc. Spatter loss is low, and the weld metal solidifies quickly leaving a closely rippled deposit with good bead appearance." 6013 is also not designed to cut through rust only 6010 or 6011 are so you should prep your base metal before welding so you have proper fusion. Now jetrod or E7024 on the otherhand is the welding electrode that is typically only ran in horizontal or flat position because of its depository rate. I've ran it overhead myself but most companies don't recommend it as an all position rod.
Good looking weld
High Austin, if you fleetweld 35 is a standard 6011 good for rust,unclean material., fleetweld 35s is good for oily and dirty material., fleetweld 35ls, or fleetweld 180 is for éxtrime rust, demed coat, galvanized material. Depending on Appalachian needed. It is ann Ac-Dc rod + or - polatery. 1/8" preferred. E6013 is mainly Ac,... but can be used on DC . It is all position according to the ( 1 ) . It is good on farm equipment repairs, refacing turning plow's ECT........, home repairs........ Use small circles, 1/8".
10:01
preferred. Hope that I was able to help you. Be blessed and be safe,nol
Bob Moffat said he would never use 6013 for anything important. Poor penetration and brittle. He said it is useful for tacking with a 7018 cover because it lights and restarts easily. I think it is specifically developed to weld sheet metal for floors or skins.
I I agree with Mr. Bob. RIP
This is correct it was made as a sheet metal rod. I used it to weld exhaust pipe yesterday, worked incredibly well
@@bayoutrapper WHAT? He died?
Yes that is what I heard and I haven't saw him on there in the last year or two. I could have heard wrong or maybe a rumer but I haven't saw him on in a good while. When I heard he'd passed, I think of a heart attack, I was truly saddened.😢. I've been looking for him every video they put out but it's like a whole new crew. It would take a crew to try to replace him. I hope I'm wrong. But I watch almost every video they drop and haven't saw him in a year or more. I'm going to try to find out. God bless y'all, work safe.
@@bayoutrapper I hope he is ok.
I use 6013 a lot doing all types of repairs . 6013 and 7018 is damn near all I use.
6011 deep.penitrating rod works good on unprepared surfaces
3:50 you can see with your first upsweep on the pipe you are a bit warm, too deep just a bit and getting that overhang. Sweeping through the “U” faster would compensate, but cranking her down just a smidge would allow you to maintain consistent quality welds. Good videos.
6011 is a copy of 6010 but is capable of running on ac due to the flux having some thing in it to make reigniting easier
It is the 6011 electrode that can weld through rust is the sister Rod to 6010 and I like 6010 which can only run on direct current 6011 is a dual polarity electrode 6013 likes clean metal
if laid in right slag should peel up behind it i run about 180 on 5/32
If I remember correctly it is E6011 that will weld through paint, light rust and light dirt.
6011 and 6013 is all I use. I use 3/32 and 1/8 rods. I have videos on my channel.
6011 is a good rod for rusty, greasy, dirty metal.
have some rusty, with some paint beam to weld. My flux core mig is not doing great so i plan to try 6011 stick to see how it does. should i use AC/DCEP or DCEN? thank for any input you can give me.
@@peetky8645either ac or dc will work fine , it definitely likes dc better tho. I’m patching a dump truck bed right now and using a tombstone (AC) , a little finicky at first but I’m getting used to it. Good luck on your project!
@@jackburton5483 thanks
i like the hobart 6013 i hung wrought iron with it
6013 produces too much slag. I have found that it is good for sheet metal, as you can turn way down and still keep it lit. For me, I wouldn't weld anything load bearing with 6013...That's just me though. Thanks for your helpful videos.
Hey Austin
I have been welding with 6013 for one year now and it is really difficult rod for other than flat. It sags and drips in vertical position.
6013 is meant for a farming rod a lot of farmers use it. You can weld an all position. You can weld it with pipe downhill as well. 332 thick rod is what I have experience running pipe downhill in the greenhouses. With
6013 welding rods using oil cooled ac arc welding set was often used in uk on platework and non coded pipework welding
Why don't you try cut and etch test on them? It's easy cheap and you can tell a lot about your welds. Just cut it through the throat of the weld polish it down to about 600 grit with a flapper wheel, and then take some naval jelly and rub it on with a Q-tip give it about 5 minutes, and it'll show most, if not all inclusions and imperfections. HAZ, penetration fusion or lack thereof. Just be careful with the naval jelly, wear safety glasses, and rubber gloves. God bless y'all, and work safe.
You make me want to test deposition between 6010/11 6013 & 7018, and it would be interesting to see how 6013 does whipped too.
6o13 works well on home welder S on ac current
6010/6011 is what you want for root passes before using 7018. 6013 is better for thinner material.
to be precise Austin, you are welding horizontal, not flat......flat would be where the material on a fillet is like a v trough.....
and when you mention weld settings on your machine, you are not giving the amps, just the range and percentage,
for those who are not familiar with the way some machines have 'gears' and ranges and percentages, it is almost impossible for them to know what amps a machine is set to......maybe do a video on what those ranges [gears] and percentages actually mean in amps......cheers, Paulie Brown
6013 was designed for outside corner joints on sheetmetal. It's lays a nice looking bead,but keep it tight and MOVE! It really has limited practical use today, the A/C 'buzzbox' guys like it for mower decks.
Wow, very, very interesting. Would a guy typically run it downhill or uphill or horizontal or any of the above in this situation on the outside corner of sheet metal?
That makes a lot of sense. 6013 makes a good bond with the base metal, but likes to sit on top of it, not burn in like 6011. An outside corner weld is one place you don't want to burn in.
Harbor Freight has kept 1/16" 6013 in stock for several years. Since 6013 is an all-position
electrode, I bet a lot of it has been used of mufflers/exhaust pipes, and maybe some on sheet-metal auto-body patches.
Most red-blooded regular guys know that the odds of a mother-in- law going under a car to inspect a weld is zero. The father-in-law can be told "Sir, I know I'm no professional, if you could show me how it's done I would be grateful."
Your own parents know you all too well, but they probably want grand children and/or continued access to pre-existing grandchildren.
A weld bead that sits on top of the base metal (sheet-metal) isn't the worst thing when you just want to fix a rusted-out muffler, etc.
@@arossweldingIm no pro welder just a farmer that has taught himself some stuff. I would never use it down hill only uphill. For me the slag is too much and runs over your rod. If you try to push it over the puddle with your arc you will need to turn tour machine up high enough to make it burn through.
6013 is a good maintenance type rod have to run it on the hotter side you will get slag inclusions
Here in South africa all your rods are basically 6013. You can get 7018 but it would be sold as specialty rods like cast or stainless rods. They are sold as all position and the brand makes a differance. The best is afrox vitemax but is stupid expensive up to five time the price of your general el cheapo. Clean or dirty makes a hell of a lot of slag and if you run it colder on thin wall it loves to over run the rod with slag and make it sputter and puke and make the welder need more time in church
I thought 6013 is a general purpose all positional rod that only gives shallow penetrative which is why its good for sheet metal.
5/32 6013 needs about 160 amps to run correct on DC+......big difference than a 3/32 7018 running below 100 amps.....for less penetration on thin material, DC- is the way to go.....more build up and less penetration.....
back in the 70s a 50lb box of 5/32 was .50 cent cheeper than a box of 1/8
Love the video! I’m looking for a good mechanic to do some work on my SA 200 in the Stillwater area. Any suggestions?
I recommend Mike over in enid. Just google Mikes Welder Repair Enid, Oklahoma. It will bring up a location.
Get ahold of some 9045 dhlh. Curious of your opinion
For home gamers and small business in Europe,when you say welding rod it is 99% of time a 6013 and it is because you dont need rod owen for it.
In this old weldors experience, nothing runs better on rusty dirty material......but cellulose rods, 6011, 6010, or any of the xx10 rods will run better on rust and dirt than any of the other types of rods due to there digging action.....xx12,13,14,15,16,18,22,24,28 do not have the penetration so really should only be used on clean material....I hope this may help....Paul
Austin, that bead at 6:40 looks like you were moving too fast.....the ripples are very sharp.....
that would be the reason for the undercut....
6013 requires very steady smooth hand...so put some whiskey in your mornin coffee...like the old time pipe welders...
Agreed
7014 and 6013 are basically the same rod, Rutile and Potassium......low penetration.....super smooth bead,
you really have to watch out for lack of fusion......
You get undercut because you go from side to side to close, stay in middle and turn amps by 20% of regular flat bead. Very hard electrode at small diameters because thats slag wants to eat your arc!
Old rust junk was what we used 6011on, it seemed to burn the rust off.
Are you cut down of Tigerhood ?
6013 runs better on AC or DC straight. Not DC reverse like you use with 6010 or 7018.
6011
love Rutile rod, the smell......oh baby
all we use on the farm.......6013 and 7014..........
6011 welds any kind of trash...6013 leaves beautiful weld like stainless ...but can crack upon cooling....great for ornamental non stress projects like fence or burglar bars...i wouldnt use 6013 on something i was rapelling from...ha ha...
agree
Morning my brother, Now it's not that 6013 welding rods welds better on rust, all quality of welding rods, all areas that have to be weld must be clean before and after welding, now 6013 welding rods is a flexible welding rod, it's a rod that works better on ships and small boats for flexibility plus 6013 welding rods works better on carbon steels much better thak 7018 welding rods but most people or welders don't know this
I can't ever seem to run 6013 without slag inclusions .
6013 is all use on the field work
I despise 6013. I use it for thin material. I thought 6011 was basically 6010 for ac machines.
Just a stupid question but are those mobile welders dc or ac?
Mine is DC Welding current but it has a C power to run power tools that require AC power. But they make mobile welders that are AC welding, current and DC welding current.
I’ve just started learning how to stick weld, and I much prefer 6013 to 7018. I find you can run it much lower amps, and the slag comes off a lot easier. Weld always looks better too. A little harder to strike an arch at time, but stays lit easier for me. It does smell different, worse I guess lol.
Hi
I think you are okay with 6013 now because you are welding flat position only. When you start welding overhead and vertical your difficulties will begin with 6013
6013 has few useful applications but is good to learn with because it strikes and restarts easily. 6010/11 and 7018 have much wider applications.
130 amp is best for this diameter and i work with 6013 a lot and its good for rusty material.
6013 is a low penetration rod
I finally decided to do a welding class. I was doing flat 3/32 6010 beads. I was suprised how easily i was running it. I got home and took the same rods i was using very good and couldnt do shit with my machine. I assume it was because at the school it was a very high dollar machine? Any ideas? I was using same settings
Your home inverter type doesn't have big enough inductors, high enough arc voltage and or OCV.
try 6011 0n your home machine. It can be run any polarity on any machine. 6010, not so much.
Craρρy run of the mill home inverter welders generally are not rated for the higher voltage 6010 requires. It's not only the current, if welder voltage is not enough, arc quenches randomly, you can't long arc even for a sec to manipulate your pool, you need some 40V! Now 6011 is supposed to have arc stabilisers hence can be used on AC and at lower arc voltage, but has nowhere near the aggressive arc of 6010, not really equivalent.
Now if you want the shittiest electrode, try welding with 6013 downstream. Much worse than 7018.
Science Class time, so pay attention.
6010 is a High Cellulose Sodium flux. That flux means the rod needs a higher OCV (Open Circuit Voltage). For example, a Multimatic 220AC/DC has an OCV of 46 and is a nightmare to try and use the rods. I know from my experience using one at home.
The OCV needs to be 60 or higher for a 6010 to light and be stable, preferably higher.
6011s are High Cellulose Potassium flux. The OCV to run them is lower because of this change. These rods might solve your problem. They run the same as 6010s, so there's nothing new you need to learn.
@@wargamingsupernoob Thank you
welder is like 40k brand new oh my godd
6011 will burn through the rust. 6013 not so much
6011 is for machines that won't run 6010.
6011 on anything shit 😉
both 6011 and 6013 will burn through rust
Yuk.ill stick with 7018.or 6011 /6010 for dirty stuff.too much slag for this guy.
Not pretty when you get done either
I let my 10 year old son weld with 6013 3/32 because it doesn’t splatter like the 6010, he can burn a full rod with no stops but it does t really get the penetration…
6011