My dad used to do all of these things for me. He passed 3 months ago. Thank you for making this video because I have to this myself now and I don’t know if I could have without such clear instruction. Keep up the good work Mike.
Great guide - saved me $600 vs dealer labor - just followed these very clear instructions and swapped front/rear rotors and pads in about 3 hrs, taking my time and I'm no mechanic!
Great video! Only suggestions I'd add: 1. Don't let the caliper hang by the brake line. 2. Clean around the piston before compressing (don't want the grime getting shoved back in there). 3. Loosen the bleeder screw and put a piece of tubing on it before compressing the piston, that way you're getting rid of the old fluid left over, and not pushing it back up into the lines. This will definitely help a ton for when I rebuild my E-brake this week.
Seeping out the old brake fluid is a great idea! I had some "bubbling" in my piston when I compressed it awhile back but it wasn't making any contact with the pad so I did not care too much. But this tip would have fixed the problem, only if I weren't so damn lazy lol
The bolt what I used to remove brake rotor is 14 mm socket, thread M10 1.5 Someone else used this size M8 1.25 I think this is depends if your rotors was replaced before or not.
Thanks a lot for the video, especially for mentioning the bolt sizes and torque specs! Going to be doing this job soon since I have horrible brake squeal in the front. Turns out, watching your video, it's nearly the same procedure on this car as it was on my previous car, a Volvo S60
Greta video. Followed it exactly but when I got everything installed the new brake pads were rubbing against the rotors. Is that normal or did I mess something up?
For those of you DIYs out there be very careful with the brake caliper bracket bolts that go into the slide pins. Do not use them to screw into and loosen the brake discs. Mine ended up being stripped and I had to get a bolt the same size but a little longer in length it seems to worked.
does it hurt the bolts if you use power tools to remove them just to make the job quicker? obviously don't use them to tighten anything so you don't over tighten a bolt but just wondering about removing them.
This is a great video. After finishing the install it seems like the pads make contact with the rotor all the time, and the car can’t move very well. What are some things I should look into that I could’ve done wrong on the install?
I used a large flathead screwdriver to squeeze in piston into brake caliper. If you want you can use this tool instead www.amazon.ca/dp/B085HXDSDB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_M0PRYVMJDJ00QR6SDYV6
He used it to press on the brake caliper. You have to do this to push it inside the hole, otherwise it will be difficult putting the new brakes on since they will have lots more pad on them
Have re-greased my rear caliper slide pins however front caliper bolts (14mm) which secure slide pins are well rusted and are not moving. Reluctant to try and force as they are quite a small bolt , any advice on how to free them. Last time I done this job can't remember having any issues. Thanks for taking the time to produce a great instructional video. Alan.
So I just replaced my front pads, rotors and shims. Is it normal for it being a tight fit? They slightly drag while not applying brakes but doesn't look like there's enough space for bleeding to fix it. Is that normal? Do I need to just let it wear down a bit?
Usually wheels should spinning freely when not applying brakes. You can try to drive for a bit and check your brakes again. Maybe you did something wrong.
@@mikes.garage I double checked the calipers and everything is checking out. I didn't use oem pads and rotors so I'm thinking its just the brand i got.. It got better after I bedded in the brakes so I think the sound I was hearing was the pads rubbing against the milling pattern on the rotor. The pattern is slightly less visible after the bedding and the dragging sound is almost gone now. Gonna let it wear down a bit more and check. I went with a brand I don't usually choose. Couldn't resist spending only 70 for a brake kit consisting of two rotors and ceramic pads lol
If you have new hardware or your hardware is in a bad shape then better to replace it. If you don't have new hardware and yours in a good shape just need to be clean, then clean it up and reuse.
@@mikes.garage i know that . But if u look at this issue further u will find many say they have had that done..still u will get the wear...as the car cannot be adjusted a certain way ..like its designed to fail..like they need a new camber set.
@@dakeda2024 I know if you want to do alignment right way, inner and outer tie rod ends must be in good condition. Maybe for camber need adjustable control arms.
Hi Mike , I have felling the brake pedal lower to the floor when I depressed the pedal after I installed the new pads . Do you have any help...! Thank you
The bolt what I used to remove brake rotor is 14 mm socket, thread M10 1.5 Someone else used this size M8 1.25 I think this is depends if your rotors was replaced before or not.
Yes, this was silicone brake lubricant. Something like this www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/permatex-orange-silicone-ceramic-brake-lubricant-28-g-0381412p.0381412.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwvr6EBhDOARIsAPpqUPFAQSVpq5XTE-V9luODR8e1B9JYF0r9a5cyesAZxWAiWcnHzuZyvEYaAutiEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=611
Hi Mike , I think I over torqued slice pin, I may have do it again . I may buy an oem rotors because when I reversed a vehicle it making sounds, as it right now I used aftermarket rotors
Hi, if you over torqued a little bit, that's fine. The main thinks don't break down bolts! If your rotors size was identical to original then you don't need to replace it! It has nothing to do with making sound. Maybe take it apart again and see if you put everything correctly and rotor dust cover is not touch the rotors. Sometimes when trying to turn the wheels with hands without using steering wheel, you can bend plate behind the rotor and then rotor will make noise while driving.
Hi Mike' Garage Youre 'awesome' !!! Thanks for sending me the link showing the lift & jack points on this car. Ive just, 6 months ago, purchased an 06 is250 and am wanting to go underneath to change the diff + man trans oil & will keep this as a reference when i have to do the brakes Ill check out yor other clips Thanks sooo much ::)) Michael
Thank you for watching! I'm very positive that torque values is right. I don't remember where I found it, but I remember I was searching for a long time to find this information for IS250.
If you put grease on sliding pins and they moves ok and brake pads not installed crooked then should be ok. First day it could happen as new rotor have some oil on it and it's burning when rotors get hot.
The speed sensor is located near the wheel bearing. Usually, if there is no pad wear sensor, then there are metal piece on the pads that squeak when the pad wears out.
As Long as the brake fluid line is not off there is no air coming into the system. I like to bleed a little break fluid anyways, as right on the brakes it turns bad the fastest. :)
Hey buddy, you wouldn't happen to know if rotors and pads for a 2006 Toyota camry are interchangeable for this would you? The calipers look identical. The procedure is also the same from what I can tell. P.S. Liked and subbed.
The bolt what I used 14 mm socket, thread M10 1.5 Someone else used this size M8 1.25 I think this is depends if your rotors was replaced before or not.
Thank you, just wanted to see if i need any special tools or something, but im glad these brakes are so simple. Just one thing, thats a daily drive Toyota, not a rocketship. Just open, clean, shield and put it back together :D I mean, everybody has their own methods (talking about diy:s) but you don't have to make brake maintenance this complicated.
@@mikes.garage I tried using the 14 mm socket bolt but for some reason it's loose and won't tighten; might you have any other method for getting the caliper off? I tried using a rubber mallet but it just won't budge? Thanks for the vid btw!
WHY are you wire-brushing all that corrosion and old crud off the caliper assembly just next to and just above the newly-installed Brake Disc and New Brake pads ??? Not too smart if you think about it is it ???
My dad used to do all of these things for me. He passed 3 months ago. Thank you for making this video because I have to this myself now and I don’t know if I could have without such clear instruction. Keep up the good work Mike.
I'm sorry for your loss.
Thank you for watching!
Your dad is watching over you from heaven!
🎉
Stay strong❤
Great guide - saved me $600 vs dealer labor - just followed these very clear instructions and swapped front/rear rotors and pads in about 3 hrs, taking my time and I'm no mechanic!
I'm glad that my video was helpful for you
Where did you buy the brakes and rotors and how much did the parts cost?
I got this from eBay on all 4 wheels for $160 canadian dollars. Also you can buy parts from Rockauto.com
dude pep boys wanted 740!!!! thank you so much I'm going to try and do this myself I need a project to do !
@@298lol Thank you for watching and good luck with your project!
Great log. Thanks for mentioning the socket sizes and the amount of torque needed for the bolts.
Thank you for watching! 🙂
Looks very easy! I wasn't sure about how difficult it would be but looks as easy or easier than all the other brake jobs I've done.
Great video! Only suggestions I'd add:
1. Don't let the caliper hang by the brake line.
2. Clean around the piston before compressing (don't want the grime getting shoved back in there).
3. Loosen the bleeder screw and put a piece of tubing on it before compressing the piston, that way you're getting rid of the old fluid left over, and not pushing it back up into the lines.
This will definitely help a ton for when I rebuild my E-brake this week.
Thank you!
Seeping out the old brake fluid is a great idea! I had some "bubbling" in my piston when I compressed it awhile back but it wasn't making any contact with the pad so I did not care too much. But this tip would have fixed the problem, only if I weren't so damn lazy lol
Is there a certain tube size to get? What is it called
I found the bolt size required to pop the rotor off the hub to be M8 1.25 pitch. I used two bolts with even pressure to break the rotors free.
One of the better tutorials I've seen. Well done!
Thank you very much!
This is the greatest tutorial I have ever seen thank you.
Thank you for watching!
Thank you for this video. Knocked this out so quick. Crazy how much auto shops/dealers charge just to remove two bolts.
Thank you for watching!
The bolt what I used to remove brake rotor is 14 mm socket, thread M10 1.5 Someone else used this size M8 1.25 I think this is depends if your rotors was replaced before or not.
Which size is for stock rotors?
Great video! Why are some calipers casting 60-28 or 60-32?
@@iz-is2502 Thanks! I didn’t understand the question.
Thanks a lot for the video, especially for mentioning the bolt sizes and torque specs! Going to be doing this job soon since I have horrible brake squeal in the front. Turns out, watching your video, it's nearly the same procedure on this car as it was on my previous car, a Volvo S60
Thank you for watching!
Greta video. Followed it exactly but when I got everything installed the new brake pads were rubbing against the rotors. Is that normal or did I mess something up?
@@andrewwhite253 Thanks! Rubbing? Just check once again if everything is set correctly
For those of you DIYs out there be very careful with the brake caliper bracket bolts that go into the slide pins. Do not use them to screw into and loosen the brake discs. Mine ended up being stripped and I had to get a bolt the same size but a little longer in length it seems to worked.
Same! 😪
Me to lol
if it's an AWD IS 250 do you put it in neutral gear?
does it hurt the bolts if you use power tools to remove them just to make the job quicker? obviously don't use them to tighten anything so you don't over tighten a bolt but just wondering about removing them.
Definitely you can use power tools
This is a great video. After finishing the install it seems like the pads make contact with the rotor all the time, and the car can’t move very well. What are some things I should look into that I could’ve done wrong on the install?
Thank you! Maybe you sliding pins is rusted a lot and now sticking inside.
Thanks for the helpful video. What size id bolt did u use to remove the disc? Also 58 ib-ft is sufficient and not 98? Thanks again. Really helpful.
Thank you for watching! I checked repair manual again and 58 ft-ld is correct number.
Hey great video, I didn’t really understand why you used the screwdriver in the beginning, and to what degree you’re applying pressure
I used a large flathead screwdriver to squeeze in piston into brake caliper. If you want you can use this tool instead www.amazon.ca/dp/B085HXDSDB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_M0PRYVMJDJ00QR6SDYV6
He used it to press on the brake caliper. You have to do this to push it inside the hole, otherwise it will be difficult putting the new brakes on since they will have lots more pad on them
Im suprised my rotor wasn't sized to the hub even though i live in Quebec 🤣 And thanks man your front and rear video helped me Greatly!
Have re-greased my rear caliper slide pins however front caliper bolts (14mm) which secure slide pins are well rusted and are not moving. Reluctant to try and force as they are quite a small bolt , any advice on how to free them. Last time I done this job can't remember having any issues. Thanks for taking the time to produce a great instructional video. Alan.
Just try a little harder. You shouldn't brake them.
It is also a good idea to change all brake shims at this time?
This is great idea!
Your video is the best. Specially the torque information!!! million likes for you.
Thank you for watching!
So I just replaced my front pads, rotors and shims. Is it normal for it being a tight fit? They slightly drag while not applying brakes but doesn't look like there's enough space for bleeding to fix it. Is that normal? Do I need to just let it wear down a bit?
Usually wheels should spinning freely when not applying brakes. You can try to drive for a bit and check your brakes again. Maybe you did something wrong.
@@mikes.garage I double checked the calipers and everything is checking out. I didn't use oem pads and rotors so I'm thinking its just the brand i got.. It got better after I bedded in the brakes so I think the sound I was hearing was the pads rubbing against the milling pattern on the rotor. The pattern is slightly less visible after the bedding and the dragging sound is almost gone now. Gonna let it wear down a bit more and check. I went with a brand I don't usually choose. Couldn't resist spending only 70 for a brake kit consisting of two rotors and ceramic pads lol
Does Lexus is250 have no screws to make the brake disc sit in place?
Thanks you.
Not this one )
Thanks a lot for your answer mate. Thought that the last person who changed the forgot to put them back. Cheers.
Do I need to replace the brake hardware? Or just reuse the one that’s already there?
If you have new hardware or your hardware is in a bad shape then better to replace it. If you don't have new hardware and yours in a good shape just need to be clean, then clean it up and reuse.
U heard of inner tire wear for these .. ?? Any advice or cures....its a big topic ..i have a is250 awd 2012 ..
If you have tire wear, you need to do alignment on your car.
@@mikes.garage i know that . But if u look at this issue further u will find many say they have had that done..still u will get the wear...as the car cannot be adjusted a certain way ..like its designed to fail..like they need a new camber set.
@@dakeda2024 I know if you want to do alignment right way, inner and outer tie rod ends must be in good condition. Maybe for camber need adjustable control arms.
Which side the brake pad pin should go? Inside or out
Do you mean the wear gauge? If yes then inside.
Hi Mike , I have felling the brake pedal lower to the floor when I depressed the pedal after I installed the new pads . Do you have any help...!
Thank you
Hi, you need to press on brake pedal couple of times and it will come back how it should be.
Is this the same installatuon method for a 2010 HS250h?
Thanks
If your car has the same kind of brakes, then yes
Which bolt did you use to loosen the rotor?
The bolt what I used to remove brake rotor is 14 mm socket, thread M10 1.5 Someone else used this size M8 1.25 I think this is depends if your rotors was replaced before or not.
Thanks for the torque specs! Wasn't sure anymore
Thank you for watching😊
Did you ever have any Problems pushing back the cylinder like that? Looks like it's being pushed pretty unevenly, especially in the beginning.
No, I don't have any problems. I always do in it this way.
that first step is to push in the caliper?
Yes
What about the skim parts! How do they go on!!?
I don't understand the question
The little metal clips that come with the breaks
@@TheDCmonkee it should be on inner brake pad, check your old pad to see how it's installed.
Broken that’s why I need to replace them lol .. so I have no idea how they went
@@TheDCmonkee sometimes there is no wear indicator pins
Would this be the same for the awd version
Yes, same thing.
Aren't there sensors on the brake pads? And should I use silver or copper grade anti seize?
There is no sensors on this brakes. It doesn't matter which anti seize to use. Most shops doesn't use any anti seize.
What about thos anti rattle springs and brackets and sensors they provide?
You can use new brackets and sensors if you get it with your new brake pads. I think you have a different type of brakes.
Was the lubricant you used on the sliding pins a silicone paste?
Yes, this was silicone brake lubricant. Something like this www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/permatex-orange-silicone-ceramic-brake-lubricant-28-g-0381412p.0381412.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwvr6EBhDOARIsAPpqUPFAQSVpq5XTE-V9luODR8e1B9JYF0r9a5cyesAZxWAiWcnHzuZyvEYaAutiEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=611
Hi Mike , I think I over torqued slice pin, I may have do it again . I may buy an oem rotors because when I reversed a vehicle it making sounds, as it right now I used aftermarket rotors
Hi, if you over torqued a little bit, that's fine. The main thinks don't break down bolts! If your rotors size was identical to original then you don't need to replace it! It has nothing to do with making sound. Maybe take it apart again and see if you put everything correctly and rotor dust cover is not touch the rotors.
Sometimes when trying to turn the wheels with hands without using steering wheel, you can bend plate behind the rotor and then rotor will make noise while driving.
What year is your Lexus in the video
2007
How long does it take to do?
Around 30 min each side.
Hi Mike' Garage
Youre 'awesome' !!!
Thanks for sending me the link showing the lift & jack points on this car.
Ive just, 6 months ago, purchased an 06 is250 and am wanting to go underneath to change the diff + man trans oil & will keep this as a reference when i have to do the brakes
Ill check out yor other clips
Thanks sooo much ::))
Michael
No problem! Good luck with your car!
Dude! Nice video! straight to the point no BS, thank you for that..are your Torque values right 🤔 where do you find that information?
Thank you for watching!
I'm very positive that torque values is right. I don't remember where I found it, but I remember I was searching for a long time to find this information for IS250.
Hey mate I have put my brakes on but after driving it and checked it the brake was burning is that normal
If you put grease on sliding pins and they moves ok and brake pads not installed crooked then should be ok. First day it could happen as new rotor have some oil on it and it's burning when rotors get hot.
Hey, how is your brakes now?
Thanks for the detailed vid and torque values! Very clean install 🤘
Thank you for watching!
Just got a Lexus 2012 and heard some squeaks, glad to see it’s not that hard of a job.
Thank you for watching! I hope everything will go smoothly for you.
so I have a 2010 AWD IS250 there is no wear sensor or abs speed sensors etc to look for?
The speed sensor is located near the wheel bearing. Usually, if there is no pad wear sensor, then there are metal piece on the pads that squeak when the pad wears out.
Hi what bolt size is it to remove the rotor?
Hi, M8 1.25 pitch
No brake grease on the outer part of the brake pad?
If you want, you can apply grease on outer part too.
What size bolt is it????
The bolt what I used 14 mm socket, thread M10 1.5
What size is the bolt used to remove the rotor?
M8 1.25 pitch
This the same on a 2006 is350?
Could be the same of you don't have bigger brake disk and sport package.
Hi Mikes Garage
Could you tell me where the jacking points are on the underbody of the car
Thanks :)
Hi, I can show you 🙂 cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clublexus.com-vbulletin/528x639/jack1_b53ab37d69ff70984036d8f0b6fafe7e1b406941.jpg
Great video thanks for taking the time to share this
Thank you for watching!
Can the wheel hun cover make noise if is too close to the hub ,i hear a noise when the wheels start rolling
Wheel hub cover?
Thanks mate , really helpful video.
Thank you for watching!
Do you not need to bleed the brakes?
This is not necessarily.
As Long as the brake fluid line is not off there is no air coming into the system. I like to bleed a little break fluid anyways, as right on the brakes it turns bad the fastest. :)
Schnapsbrenner - what do you mean by, “so long as the brake fluid line is not off”?
Where do u get the bolt to push the rotor loose?
I have a big collections of bolts ) but you can buy them at your local car store.
Heyyy this was an awesome video bro I’m definitely gonna do mines next
Thank you for watching!
Hi , can you tell me what brand of rotor . Thanks
This is Canadian brand "Transit Auto" but you can use any brand you like 🙂
Great video and helped so much!
Thanks! 😊
You made that look so beautiful...I feel bad for all the times I did a crap job on my car :( lol
Don't worry, this is all video editing 😁
Hey buddy, you wouldn't happen to know if rotors and pads for a 2006 Toyota camry are interchangeable for this would you?
The calipers look identical. The procedure is also the same from what I can tell.
P.S. Liked and subbed.
Hey, I don't know but it's quite possible they are the same.
No pump breaks at the end?
Pump it while start driving )
@ 1:49 if your rotor stuck what is the thread size bolt to remove the rotors? Metric or sae standard?
The bolt what I used 14 mm socket, thread M10 1.5 Someone else used this size M8 1.25 I think this is depends if your rotors was replaced before or not.
@@mikes.garage cool thanks man will subscribe for sure
@@Johnleefromthemist Thank you for watching!
I have this exact same car and color,im still not sure if its a dark blue or a purple lol.
This is grey colour 😉
Damn, really well done.
Thanks 😊
Thank you, just wanted to see if i need any special tools or something, but im glad these brakes are so simple. Just one thing, thats a daily drive Toyota, not a rocketship. Just open, clean, shield and put it back together :D I mean, everybody has their own methods (talking about diy:s) but you don't have to make brake maintenance this complicated.
Thank you for watching!
def a big help.
How much cost 4 wheel disc?
Do you mean brake disc? It depends on brand and store.
Thanks!
@@lookingfordrama01 Thank you so much!
Awesome man, THANK YOU!
Why didn't you bleed the brake line?
Because I don't have to do this.
@@mikes.garage ok thanks.
Whats the size of the rotor screw??
The bolt what I used 14 mm socket, thread M10 1.5
Nice job Mike. I can do this now.
Thank you for watching!
Great tutorial! Thank you!
Thank you for watching!
Does anyone know the size of the bolt to help push out the rotors if they are hard to take out?
Would using one of the bolts from the caliper fit?
Do not use caliper bolt they are to big. The bolt what I used 14 mm socket, thread M10 1.5
Thanks Mike.
@@ChristianLikesFootball Happy to help.
@@mikes.garage I tried using the 14 mm socket bolt but for some reason it's loose and won't tighten; might you have any other method for getting the caliper off? I tried using a rubber mallet but it just won't budge? Thanks for the vid btw!
@@jnom07Hi, yes you can use a hammer to knock it out or use a long wrecking bar, just like this here:
ua-cam.com/video/Asj89RnBx3g/v-deo.html
Best video out thank you sir
Thank you for watching! ✌️
How do you measure the torque?
With torque wrench.
Perfect video!!
Thank you! 😊
im putting the caliper back having some trouble
Thanks your video , i leaning from you.
Thank you for watching!
No Bolt holding the brake rotor on lexus? I know volvo had one
BMW have one too, but lexus doesn't.
Don’t u need to bleed the brakes does anyone know?
Not necessarily.
Great stuff , thank you .
Thank you for watching!
Can anyone let me know what wire brush to use to clean the wheel hub
Hard steel wire brash.
@@mikes.garage thank you, might ask you some more questions tomorrow as I am going to attempt to do all 4 rotors on my is250
@@Crist1an01 ok, NP
Change all front brake system for GS 300 models . Rear all system Ls 430
You did not compress the caliper piston proper way while putting it back on which could ruin the piston seal in caliper..
I just replaced mine and it has a funny sound to it when breaking??
Could be new brake pads. Is there any smoke coming out?
@@mikes.garage I kept the same brake pads because I just replaced those about a month and a half ago
This is weird then.
Thank you!
Thank you for watching!
Tnx man
Thank you for watching 🙂
nice vid but put some taylor swift on next time
Thanks! No more music in a new videos 😉
Cool
I did all of this and now they are speaking and squealing like crazy
Are you sure you put everything right?
Compress the piston, ...nice way to damage your pads by forcing it.
Yes, but you replace them anyways.
WHY are you wire-brushing all that corrosion and old crud off the caliper assembly just next to and just above the newly-installed Brake Disc and New Brake pads ???
Not too smart if you think about it is it ???
🦂