Thank You for posting this very informative video. So because of your video, I purchased the Domino XL 700 and copied your exact design. I wish I could post pics. It came out absolutely perfect! I made two massive gates for a very happy client.
Great to hear. I recently went to a Festool demo day at my local wood supplier. so many amazing goodies. Building these was challenging but fun. The key to big heavy doors like this is to make sure the jamb is well fortified and stabilized. They are having some issues with movement and I've had to adjust these a few times. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Wanting to reconvert my former garage - now room - back into a garage, but only when hurricanes come thru here, cause I really don't want the car outside, but I like having a finished room too (which can also be used as a MIL suite). This is the first thing I've seen that would keep the room like a room for the rest of the year but not lower the property value! I like the idea of versatility too. Thanks for posting!
What a nice job! I am planning to make some of these and while I am sure I am not as skilled as you are, your clear explanation has given me the push I was looking for. Thanks a million!
nice. thanks for the reply I've built a few door over the years but always used a traditional mortising method but the ease and speed this domino cutter offers is undeniable. probably going to pop and grab one ..
I can't recommend it highly enough. Just be aware of the different bits and dominos. I have the large dominos for doors and such, but I also got smaller one, along with a smaller bit for 3/4" work. This machine is amazing and I hope it will inspire you to do other things. Festool is having some kind of contractor workshop at my local wood supplier this weekend and I'm excited to check it out. Thanks for watching.
I love the way you made these doors. I don't think the stain did your work justice. I have a pair of doors to make. I will mortise and tenon them rather than buy a $1,000 Festool as I am a hobbyist only. I will use your great tips re the two-sided panels and kerfs for the caulk. Thanks much.
I'm glad I could help inspire you. You can thank Norm from This Old House for the tips on two sided panels and kerfs for caulk because that's where I learned them. Good luck with the project and thanks for watching.
+David Handley wow, I'm not sure I'm worthy of such praise, but I'll take it. I admire your spirit about learning new things. This project was a challenge for me and I wanted to try some things I'd not done before. Using the Festool joiner was a first for me, but after watching so many very skilled carpenters use it, I decided to try and it really took my work to a new level. I'm glad I could inspire you as others have inspired me. Thanks for watching.
Wow! That is a fantistically cool pair of doors! It looks like a ton of fun! I like how you stained the outside and painted the inside. (Except the astragal wood doesn’t go with the rest of your beautiful work) I really like how you made the doors stop against the threshold for a perfect seal. GREAT idea! So many cool things there, I can’t mention them all. You gave me tremendous motivation to get started on a duplicate pair! Thank you for making this video!
I appreciate the the nice comments. Lot of decisions to make while building and balancing improvisational challenges with the customer's desire. Thanks for watching.
+Gina S OCD ALERT ! OCD ALERT ! Gina demands I pronounce words in a manner that she approves of. If you knew me personally, you'd understand that there are absolutely no rules regarding sounds, words, accents and the like. Life if just play to me. Thanks for watching.
have one set of doors made and one more to go. would have uploaded a picture but couldn't find a way to put it in the comment box.... Anyway, just wanted to say thanks for making and sharing this video. it made things so much easier. Jimmy
That's great to hear. A tip for you if you're doing the installation. Make sure the jamb is as secure as possible. Because the jamb I attached to is on a raised floor, there has been some pesky movement and 1/8" movement at the jamb results in the strike side of the door rising or lowering 1/4" and I've had to adjust the strikes 2x since I hung these. So use plenty of big hinges 4.5" - 5" minimum and make sure the framing of the jamb is as stable as you can get it. Good luck and thanks for watching.
That piece is call an "astragal." It was 1 3/4" wide and about 1/4" thick. I glued it with construction adhesive and then nailed it. Thanks for watching.
That's exciting news. One tip not covered in the video. Make sure the framing for the doorway is beefed up. I've had to go back to these doors three times because her garage is shifting and with such large doors, an 1/8" of movement in the frame near the hinges can cause up to 1/4" of movement on the strike side, causing the doors to get stuck. It's a simple adjustment for me, but just wanted to pass that along. Do whatever you feel necessary to stabilize the door jamb. Go overboard with any reinforcement and you'll be better off in the long run. Thanks for watching.
I will be starting on these doors this weekend. I'm building a total of 4 doors for two bays so, two of them will be hinged to the same post. I'm not sure what the weight will be. I'm using kiln dried cypress for material. Any suggestions/ideas on what I need to do for beefing up the frame of the opening/s?
It's hard to say without being there, but I would add a 4x4 jack stud to each side and make sure it's attached to the bottom and top plates securely. Good luck with it. Have fun.
Great video and I like the design, which I am going to use to make some garage doors. However, I see one weakness related to security. For the closing you simply attach a moulding to the outside of the right hand door. This means it would be very easy for anyone break in. Why would you not make opposing rebates or similar to make the closing more secure and fit the moulding to cover the off-centre gap between the doors. Small issue but my clients are very security conscious!!
+John Fabula I'm glad I could inspire you. These doors were far more challenging that I imagined. 2 tips for you. Get the wood milled properly to begin with and do test cuts on your miter saw to make sure it's cutting true right angles. One of the most critical elements is getting all the boards cut to equal lengths and very square. Good luck and thanks for watching.
LOL. I'm laughing because I compared with that guy all the time, but it's been a while since I heard one. I'll hoist a Merlot to you. Thanks for watching.
i have several hundred feet of 70 year old rough cut doug fir that i go from demo'ing my old deck... 21ft x10x2 dimensional... have been milling and planing it up (and filling the knots and old nail holes with epoxy which looks awesome) but saving some to build garage doors... sadly the knuckleheads that rebuilt the garage/deck structure didn't do it deep enough (long story) for the pad, so first go around i wouldn't have been able to even get my truck in it, then they dug it out, but just enough i could get the truck in, but no overhead garage doors... so i had to look at alternatives... ended up finding the parts to build a set of doors that slides to the side, and around the inside of the wall... so the style will be very much like these, but they'll have to be in pieces, like a huge roll-top desk really... looking forward to the build - won't be able to stretch the budget to a festool domino but Je Young has a vid for making a pretty awesome mortising jig... making the domino's themselves is fairly easy... or may just go old school with hand done through tenons. also have 3 exterior and 5 interiors to do, so will depend on which seems more efficient. doug fir is a pleasure to work with though.
Thankyou so much for the video. Im planing on building my own doors for my garage in the next couple of weeks. Can you use dowels if you dont have a domino tool? I was thinking if you drilled holes through the side and hit 3/4 inch dowels.
Love these, I need to build some for a 100 year old house. I have hot water pipes running in ceiling so these with Franklin openers to swing out. What gap did you plan on for top, sides and center. Does not look like you added any weatherstripping. Any thoughts?
Great video. I like how you explained your preference for the loose tenons, I've had a lot of frustration fitting together tight dowels. I'm surprised you did two layers of 1/4" plywood for the panels, is that to keep an A side to both the inside and outside?
That loose tenon idea comes directly from Festool recommendations. The two layer was simply to get the right thickness as that's the stock I had on hand. Thanks for watching.
Love the beautiful work and passion for the structural soundness and aesthetic details. Can you share your sources for the door hardware? Hinges, tracks etc.? Or is that information only the door installer would have? Is it proprietary info? Thanks
great looking doors im curious as to how the weight at the latching end vs the domino method will hold up longterm . it just seems like a lot of weight not to use a big skucum tenon
The Dominos are amazingly strong. As a professional door contractor, I handle doors all the time. These, although large and heavy, felt as sturdy as anything purchased from a professional mill. As you saw in the video, I used many Dominos, therefore the load and stress is distributed throughout many joints and areas of the door. I have complete confidence, that when installed properly, the Dominos work quite well. Thanks for watching.
I was going to ask you how well these doors have held up cause I know that when they are that wide and exposed to the elements they start sagging. Just tried finding you google and said your business is no longer open. Did you rename LA doors and more?
Yes. Moved to Nashville a few years ago and started Nashville door company. However, those doors were for my neighbor and holding up nicely. Because it was a garage retrofit in a back yard, the opening tends to move around as that neighborhood has very soft, sandy soil, so the doors need an adjustment during each rainy season and that's a very common issue in Los Angeles. Thanks for watching.
Love this build. In case I overlooked it or didn't pay close enough attention, what material did you use for the doors? Looks like I now have a great excuse to get a Festool 700 Domino machine
I agree. Gorgeous door design, but just as much detail work goes into the finish. What's the purpose of spending all that money on milled wood and not taking the time and effort to bring the beauty out?
Couple of questions if you don't mind. How wide are your mullions between the windows? How much room do you allow between the jam and door? Ex. My door opening is 111-3/4". Any help is appreciated. I purchased the festool df700. I love it! Thanks in advance
You can't have the hinge barrels on the inside and have the doors swing out. However, it is one of the greatest myths in door security that people will somehow remove hinge pins and enter a home. Try it sometime. It's nearly impossible. There are at least 10 ways to break into a structure in a fraction of the time it would take to remove hinge pins and remove a door. No smart burglar would waste his time with hinge pins. And doors like this are so heavy, they would wedge themselves into place and it would take 2 guys with crow bars to remove them. However, if you're still not convinced, there are 2 types of security hinges available that are low cost and easy to use. In all my years as a contractor, I've replaced broken doors, broken windows, and busted locks, but I've NEVER heard of anyone removing hinge pins as a way to get inside. Thanks for watching.
I know this is a few years old but I was wondering why you installed most of the sticking proud except for the exterior side of the windows where you installed it low.
I like it. Do you have experience building doors in areas where they need to be insulated? How would one go about building a well insulated door of the same design?
I would recommend building it using metal studs. The door will be 5inches thick, but you'll be able to insulate it. There's an excellent example by a YT user named "swivelgate." I don't know him, but I love the video he made and I will try it in the future ua-cam.com/video/qn4AnhUCOFE/v-deo.html Thanks for watching.
I have an old garage we are fixing up and those are ... well, actually too nice, but I am curious about how much they cost to construct in materials. Really nice job.
These doors are absolutely stunning to look at . I think I am going to do the same design for myself if you don’t mind. My question is regarding diagonal braces, do these not require them because you have fitted a horizontal near top ? I’m planning on putting on my workshop and moisture is a issue ? Hope you get time to reply thanks
I love these doors! I would like to do something similar but would like to add the element of insulation. Southwest Georgia offers fierce climate swings and I intend to work in both winter (20 degrees) and summer (90-100 + 80% humidity) Any thoughts on doing so?
You'd have to do something completely different in order to incorporate insulation. I would do a search on youtube for "12 foot garage door." That guy makes a great set of doors using metal stud framing, and something like that would work with insulation. good luck and thanks for watching.
Nothing unusual about them. Just standard 4 1/2" hinges. If I did it again, I'd have used 4 on each door instead of 3, but they work just fine. Thanks for watching.
Beautiful and Amazing work Love It ! Any suggestions on how to make these doors without the festool and dominoes, that tool is over $1,000 and i can't afford it.
Thanks for the comment. There are a number of different ways for making doors, but large doors like these require strong, precise building. I once attempted similar doors using dowels and different types of routed joints, but it was impossible for me to get the precision I get from the Domino XL. I would suggest a continued search until you find a method you're comfortable with that's within your budget. Good luck with it and thanks for watching.
Love those doors. Got a question about the hinges. With the pins on the outside, what is there to stop someone from removing the hinge pin and then the door? Are those special hinges that may require a tool or something to remove the pins? Just thinking about the security of the space.
+Croz 1007 Try removing the hinge pins from your front door and then remove the door, and you'll soon discover it simply can't be done.. Seriously, the idea that you can pop the pins and remove the door is a myth. The physics don't allow it. Oh sure with a crow bar, a helper and lots of time, you might be able to do it, but burglars don't think that way. There are 2 common types of security hinges in use, and they work well, but they're unnecessary. Of all the ways to break into a residence, popping the hinge pins of a door isn't even in the top 20. Especially with these doors. If we were to pop the pins, the door, which weighs hundreds of pounds, would be wedged in so tightly, it would be impossible to pull out. We have a saying i the door business, "locks only keep honest people out." If someone wants to break in, they'll find a way to do it and there are dozens of ways that are faster and easier than popping the hinge pins. Great question though. Thanks for watching.
+Croz 1007 I'm glad you like the doors. The idea that doors can be removed by taking out the hinge pins is a myth. Go ahead and try it some time. You'll find that it's impossible if the door is put in properly and is locked. In addition, these particular doors are so heavy, they simply can't be moved without the hinge pins in place. Lastly, anybody who wants to get into a structure, will choose the fastest and easiest way to get in. It would be much easier to smash a window or stick a crowbar between two doors. We have a saying in our business, "Locks only keep out the honest people." Having said all that, there are 2 types of security hinges. One type has a small set screw in the barrel that can only be accessed once the door is open, and the other is a small, recessed clip on each half of the hinge that prevents the hinge from coming apart. Both are effective, but also a non-issue for reasons I've mentioned. Thanks for watching.
+Croz 1007 It's a myth that doors can be removed by removing the hinge pins. Try it sometime. Lock the door and then tap out the hinge pins. It's nearly impossible in a properly hung door. It's so difficult in fact that it's the last thing a burglar would ever try for it's simply too difficult. Imagine those pins were out of those hinges, then what? the door won't simply pop our or fall out. There isn't enough room to move it, not to mention the fact that these doors weigh hundreds of pounds and you wouldn't be able to budge them. Only the dumbest thief would try such a thing. any smart person would simply put a crowbar between the doors or smash a window. In all my years of fixing doors, I've never seen anybody break into a door by removing hinge pins.
+mittsdad It's all good, dude. No need to keep replying over and over about the door not being able to be removed. I was just curious when I first asked the question. I hope you took no offense to me asking the question in the first place. Sorry if you did. Like I said, they look beautiful. Let's leave it at that.
My only concern with making doors with this method of construction is there’s no haunch, which means it introduces the dangers of large rails twisting and possible shrinking on the joint. I’ve made doors using the domino method with and without a haunch....definitely a much better job with one
Great video. I'm looking to replicate your doors (minus the windows). What's the height of your bottom rail? You mentioned that it was 48.5" long, but I didn't remember if you mentioned the height.
I scrolled thru Comments and no one commented your using beech tenons and not Ipe which Festool recommends for exterior work. Can the added expense of Ipe tenons the reason?
As you know, nothing related to Festool is inexpensive. I bought the beech tenons in bulk and use them for everything. It's not been an issue, but I appreciate you bringing that up. Thanks for watching.
Sorry lol... Here in Canada Mitts are what you wear on your hands in winter. I just jumped to the visual that you were the keeper of some Mitten madness taking place on a winter morning with your kiddos :)
+Nichol Alexander When UA-cam began many years ago, I signed up with skepticism. It wasn't the household name that it is now, and I didn't want to get spammed or scammed, so I made up the name "mitts dad" as a goof because at the time, one of my dogs was named Mitts. As fate would have it, the site has done quite well and because I've a bit of a following, I've kept the name. Growing up in Connecticut, I spent many cold days wearing mittens and I also spent many cold days regretting that I hadn't, so I'm familiar with the term and accept it gladly. I shared your remark with my daughter and she thought it was hilarious and now she's calling me mitten man with great laughter. Thanks...I think.
How ironic... My siblings had a Mittsy the dog when they were kids. I get it now, thanks; it's nice to know people you see on the web have stories and pasts :) I like my version better. Some poor dad scrambling to get out of a mudroom with his kiddos lol. I'll stop now with my nonsense.I'm gonna hopefully tackle a set of bi-folding carriage doors this summer and was combing the net looking for inspiration when I stumbled on yours. About 10 years ago I made a set myself, out of Trex decking of all things. I was hoping they would survive a nuclear attack I think? If I had to guess the weight, I'd say about 200 or more pounds a piece! They stood up well and didn't require finishing which was a nice feature. But... Trex gets stains eventually which don't come out. I think it's because of the wood fibers mixed in? I also found the expansion and contraction more radical then products made entirely of PVC. The little mice could walk right on in between'em on a cool day! So here I go again, round 2!Thanks Again,Cheers
+Nichol Alexander Good luck with that. I find that heavy bifolds are very challenging because there are so many points where movement happens. My advice to anybody doing anything like this would be to go overboard on framing and shearing each side of the jamb. The slightest movement causes all kinds of adjustment issues with doors this size. Sounds like you know a thing or two though, so I'm sure you'll do just fine.
That sounds like a great idea. Whenever working with doors that are this big and heavy, I always make my clearances much greater than standard doors. It's not so much the swelling of the doors as opposed the amount of movement they exhibit because they put so much stress on the jambs and that causes the framing to shift. Use at least 4 hinges on each door and reinforce the jamb as best you . That, along with wide clearances, should result in a fine door. And yes, always seal the entire door. Thanks for watching.
Great question. That was done for a couple of reasons. By building the stiles a little longer, I don't have to worry about getting them perfect. In addition, when I have to handle or move the doors during construction, I can use the stile as a pivot or even drag them. Once everything is done, then I cut the stiles even and apply a finish to the door bottoms in the field. You don't HAVE to do it this way, but it was very helpful for me. Thanks for watching.
Thank You for posting this very informative video. So because of your video, I purchased the Domino XL 700 and copied your exact design. I wish I could post pics. It came out absolutely perfect! I made two massive gates for a very happy client.
Im a festool guy myself and I definitely fell confident making my customers garage doors after seeing this
Great to hear. I recently went to a Festool demo day at my local wood supplier. so many amazing goodies. Building these was challenging but fun. The key to big heavy doors like this is to make sure the jamb is well fortified and stabilized. They are having some issues with movement and I've had to adjust these a few times. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Wanting to reconvert my former garage - now room - back into a garage, but only when hurricanes come thru here, cause I really don't want the car outside, but I like having a finished room too (which can also be used as a MIL suite). This is the first thing I've seen that would keep the room like a room for the rest of the year but not lower the property value! I like the idea of versatility too. Thanks for posting!
Great basic build! Crystal clear tutorial. Beautiful Doors! If this video doesn't sell some Domino XL machines, I don't know what will.
What a nice job! I am planning to make some of these and while I am sure I am not as skilled as you are, your clear explanation has given me the push I was looking for. Thanks a million!
Thanks for sharing your project-for a moment I thought I gonna listen Bob Villa 😁
nice. thanks for the reply I've built a few door over the years but always used a traditional mortising method but the ease and speed this domino cutter offers is undeniable. probably going to pop and grab one ..
I can't recommend it highly enough. Just be aware of the different bits and dominos. I have the large dominos for doors and such, but I also got smaller one, along with a smaller bit for 3/4" work. This machine is amazing and I hope it will inspire you to do other things. Festool is having some kind of contractor workshop at my local wood supplier this weekend and I'm excited to check it out. Thanks for watching.
Those have to be the nicest garage doors ive see mittsdad. Very beautiful
Thanks. They sure did love them. Thanks for watching.
I love the way you made these doors. I don't think the stain did your work justice. I have a pair of doors to make. I will mortise and tenon them rather than buy a $1,000 Festool as I am a hobbyist only. I will use your great tips re the two-sided panels and kerfs for the caulk. Thanks much.
I'm glad I could help inspire you. You can thank Norm from This Old House for the tips on two sided panels and kerfs for caulk because that's where I learned them. Good luck with the project and thanks for watching.
Thanks for the ideas, going to do the same thing now for my build of a Carriage House entry way.
Simply stunning work! A pleasure to watch. They say that you should try and learn one new thing every day...I'm good for about a month now! Cheers.
+David Handley
wow, I'm not sure I'm worthy of such praise, but I'll take it. I admire your spirit about learning new things. This project was a challenge for me and I wanted to try some things I'd not done before. Using the Festool joiner was a first for me, but after watching so many very skilled carpenters use it, I decided to try and it really took my work to a new level. I'm glad I could inspire you as others have inspired me. Thanks for watching.
Wow that's a great looking door. Great job.
+iilover doe
Thank you for the nice words, I appreciate that you took the time to watch it.
Wow! That is a fantistically cool pair of doors! It looks like a ton of fun! I like how you stained the outside and painted the inside. (Except the astragal wood doesn’t go with the rest of your beautiful work) I really like how you made the doors stop against the threshold for a perfect seal. GREAT idea! So many cool things there, I can’t mention them all. You gave me tremendous motivation to get started on a duplicate pair! Thank you for making this video!
I appreciate the the nice comments. Lot of decisions to make while building and balancing improvisational challenges with the customer's desire. Thanks for watching.
very nice doors , especially for a backyard beginner , bravo ! and it's never ten yin always ten non
+Gina S
OCD ALERT ! OCD ALERT !
Gina demands I pronounce words in a manner that she approves of.
If you knew me personally, you'd understand that there are absolutely no rules regarding sounds, words, accents and the like. Life if just play to me. Thanks for watching.
Tenion (ten'-yun) is metric for tenon (American).
@shaun newman Google says no lol
I love it ,I have been thinking this is what I want done . I really don't care for electric doors ,even if I have to open myself and close back
Glad you enjoyed. This was fun but sooooo much work. I wouldn't try it again, but it was a unique opportunity. Thanks for watching
Wow, I want to attempt this but I'm so intimidated lol. Great tutorial tho! And beautiful craftsmanship!
Inspiring! Beautiful craftsmanship and very well explained. I think I have a winter project.
have one set of doors made and one more to go. would have uploaded a picture but couldn't find a way to put it in the comment box.... Anyway, just wanted to say thanks for making and sharing this video. it made things so much easier. Jimmy
That's great to hear. A tip for you if you're doing the installation. Make sure the jamb is as secure as possible. Because the jamb I attached to is on a raised floor, there has been some pesky movement and 1/8" movement at the jamb results in the strike side of the door rising or lowering 1/4" and I've had to adjust the strikes 2x since I hung these. So use plenty of big hinges 4.5" - 5" minimum and make sure the framing of the jamb is as stable as you can get it. Good luck and thanks for watching.
quick question if you don't mind. The vertical center strip where the doors meet...How wide did you make yours and how was it secured?
That piece is call an "astragal." It was 1 3/4" wide and about 1/4" thick. I glued it with construction adhesive and then nailed it. Thanks for watching.
Beautiful Job. Im building the same thing this summer. From your video. Thank you
i wish your camera was as stable as your work surface
I like it. Thanks, My doors will be much smaller however I can do this. :-)
amazing workmanship.
Great looking doors. I getting the wood kiln dried and milled now. I'm using cypress. Sure hope mine turn out half as good
as yours look.
That's exciting news. One tip not covered in the video. Make sure the framing for the doorway is beefed up. I've had to go back to these doors three times because her garage is shifting and with such large doors, an 1/8" of movement in the frame near the hinges can cause up to 1/4" of movement on the strike side, causing the doors to get stuck. It's a simple adjustment for me, but just wanted to pass that along. Do whatever you feel necessary to stabilize the door jamb. Go overboard with any reinforcement and you'll be better off in the long run. Thanks for watching.
I will be starting on these doors this weekend. I'm building a total of 4 doors for two bays so, two of them
will be hinged to the same post. I'm not sure what the weight will be. I'm using kiln dried cypress for material. Any suggestions/ideas on what I need to do for beefing up the frame of the opening/s?
It's hard to say without being there, but I would add a 4x4 jack stud to each side and make sure it's attached to the bottom and top plates securely. Good luck with it. Have fun.
Great video and I like the design, which I am going to use to make some garage doors. However, I see one weakness related to security. For the closing you simply attach a moulding to the outside of the right hand door. This means it would be very easy for anyone break in. Why would you not make opposing rebates or similar to make the closing more secure and fit the moulding to cover the off-centre gap between the doors. Small issue but my clients are very security conscious!!
That's what you're concerned about? You could easily just take the bolts out of the exposed hinges and just take the door out.
Great video. I feel like I can give this a shot now. Very well done.
+John Fabula
I'm glad I could inspire you. These doors were far more challenging that I imagined. 2 tips for you. Get the wood milled properly to begin with and do test cuts on your miter saw to make sure it's cutting true right angles. One of the most critical elements is getting all the boards cut to equal lengths and very square. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Great video. Thank you!
Awesome Job mate I’m going to do a similar style on my garage in Australia.
Much Respect. Well explained. Thanks
I WISH I had these skills!! GREAT job!
that's very high praise, thanks. It's been a long process. Thanks for watching.
+mittsdad
U r VERY WELCOME. Uve earned it!! B blessed and show me more. lol
love your work,but why would you put the hing on the out side. anyone could tap hing out and go right in . that concern me
He sounds just like Thomas Haden Church from Wings, Sideways, and Spiderman 3. "If they want to drink Merlot, we're drinking Merlot!"
LOL. I'm laughing because I compared with that guy all the time, but it's been a while since I heard one. I'll hoist a Merlot to you. Thanks for watching.
Very nice. Excellent work.
+Elizabeth A Mizdail
Thanks. I had a lot of fun doing these doors and I'm glad you enjoyed.
Nice job, turned out great!
awesome! your techniques and skills are to be envied. And that includes your video making. Very well done.
Thanks very much. I appreciate that and thanks for watching.
Passion shows ! Stunning.....
Glad you enjoyed it. I was lucky to view your favorites as I found some very inspiring ideas for barn doors. Thanks for watching.
Fricking AWESOME!!! I love your video so much.Thank you for sharing it.
One Pole to another, THANKS for watching. I'm truly glad you enjoyed it.
i have several hundred feet of 70 year old rough cut doug fir that i go from demo'ing my old deck... 21ft x10x2 dimensional... have been milling and planing it up (and filling the knots and old nail holes with epoxy which looks awesome) but saving some to build garage doors... sadly the knuckleheads that rebuilt the garage/deck structure didn't do it deep enough (long story) for the pad, so first go around i wouldn't have been able to even get my truck in it, then they dug it out, but just enough i could get the truck in, but no overhead garage doors... so i had to look at alternatives... ended up finding the parts to build a set of doors that slides to the side, and around the inside of the wall... so the style will be very much like these, but they'll have to be in pieces, like a huge roll-top desk really... looking forward to the build - won't be able to stretch the budget to a festool domino but Je Young has a vid for making a pretty awesome mortising jig... making the domino's themselves is fairly easy... or may just go old school with hand done through tenons. also have 3 exterior and 5 interiors to do, so will depend on which seems more efficient. doug fir is a pleasure to work with though.
Very clean job!
I love you door,I will build one for my under the deck,thank youuuuu!!!
goodjob nice garage door
Thankyou so much for the video. Im planing on building my own doors for my garage in the next couple of weeks. Can you use dowels if you dont have a domino tool? I was thinking if you drilled holes through the side and hit 3/4 inch dowels.
Love these, I need to build some for a 100 year old house. I have hot water pipes running in ceiling so these with Franklin openers to swing out. What gap did you plan on for top, sides and center. Does not look like you added any weatherstripping. Any thoughts?
Great video. I like how you explained your preference for the loose tenons, I've had a lot of frustration fitting together tight dowels. I'm surprised you did two layers of 1/4" plywood for the panels, is that to keep an A side to both the inside and outside?
That loose tenon idea comes directly from Festool recommendations. The two layer was simply to get the right thickness as that's the stock I had on hand. Thanks for watching.
Love the beautiful work and passion for the structural soundness and aesthetic details. Can you share your sources for the door hardware? Hinges, tracks etc.? Or is that information only the door installer would have? Is it proprietary info? Thanks
Nice job! Thanks for sharing.
+diverhose
I'm glad you enjoyed it. These doors were a lot of fun to build and a great learning experience. Thanks for watching.
Looks great.
great looking doors im curious as to how the weight at the latching end vs the domino method will hold up longterm . it just seems like a lot of weight not to use a big skucum tenon
The Dominos are amazingly strong. As a professional door contractor, I handle doors all the time. These, although large and heavy, felt as sturdy as anything purchased from a professional mill. As you saw in the video, I used many Dominos, therefore the load and stress is distributed throughout many joints and areas of the door. I have complete confidence, that when installed properly, the Dominos work quite well. Thanks for watching.
Quality work that looks amazing!
+paisteboy
Thank you. I truly appreciate those nice words. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing this video it was amazing
Excellent, skills, Great workmanship. I just subscribe your Channel.
+SuperKwame1
Thanks. Great to have you. Thanks for watching. Much more to come.
I was going to ask you how well these doors have held up cause I know that when they are that wide and exposed to the elements they start sagging. Just tried finding you google and said your business is no longer open. Did you rename LA doors and more?
Yes. Moved to Nashville a few years ago and started Nashville door company. However, those doors were for my neighbor and holding up nicely. Because it was a garage retrofit in a back yard, the opening tends to move around as that neighborhood has very soft, sandy soil, so the doors need an adjustment during each rainy season and that's a very common issue in Los Angeles. Thanks for watching.
can you do that to my garage? i have an asbestos roof to change to timber one and timber doors wow yours look great! great videos
+Valey Vegan
Glad you enjoyed it. I appreciate the comments and thanks for watching.
Love this build. In case I overlooked it or didn't pay close enough attention, what material did you use for the doors? Looks like I now have a great excuse to get a Festool 700 Domino machine
Exterior finish looked horrible...but better than I could do I guess.
I agree. Gorgeous door design, but just as much detail work goes into the finish. What's the purpose of spending all that money on milled wood and not taking the time and effort to bring the beauty out?
Looks amazing!
Nice
You are obviously a experienced door builder. I have not heard of the word "sticking" I have always called them stops.
Very nice. Very helpfull. Thanks. No insulation in stead of the 3 layers plywood. No double glazing in it?
It's a garage.
Nice job I think ill build some similar. Wont be as simple I dont have a domino. A little pricy for a hobbyists.
Couple of questions if you don't mind. How wide are your mullions between the windows? How much room do you allow between the jam and door? Ex. My door opening is 111-3/4". Any help is appreciated. I purchased the festool df700. I love it! Thanks in advance
The doors are gorgeous. Any idea on how to place the hinges inside for security, but still open out, the way yours do?
You can't have the hinge barrels on the inside and have the doors swing out. However, it is one of the greatest myths in door security that people will somehow remove hinge pins and enter a home. Try it sometime. It's nearly impossible. There are at least 10 ways to break into a structure in a fraction of the time it would take to remove hinge pins and remove a door. No smart burglar would waste his time with hinge pins. And doors like this are so heavy, they would wedge themselves into place and it would take 2 guys with crow bars to remove them. However, if you're still not convinced, there are 2 types of security hinges available that are low cost and easy to use. In all my years as a contractor, I've replaced broken doors, broken windows, and busted locks, but I've NEVER heard of anyone removing hinge pins as a way to get inside. Thanks for watching.
good quality...i just give you a like and a subscribe by just watching 2 minut of the video.thx
Looks amazing!!
I know this is a few years old but I was wondering why you installed most of the sticking proud except for the exterior side of the windows where you installed it low.
I like it. Do you have experience building doors in areas where they need to be insulated? How would one go about building a well insulated door of the same design?
I would recommend building it using metal studs. The door will be 5inches thick, but you'll be able to insulate it. There's an excellent example by a YT user named "swivelgate." I don't know him, but I love the video he made and I will try it in the future
ua-cam.com/video/qn4AnhUCOFE/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching.
I have an old garage we are fixing up and those are ... well, actually too nice, but I am curious about how much they cost to construct in materials. Really nice job.
I don't recall the exact price for materials, but it was about $1800. Thanks for watching.
Is that all together ... from how they came out it looks like a per door price.
Great job thanks
You earned I just subscribe nice work respect
Very nice
These doors are absolutely stunning to look at . I think I am going to do the same design for myself if you don’t mind.
My question is regarding diagonal braces, do these not require them because you have fitted a horizontal near top ? I’m planning on putting on my workshop and moisture is a issue ?
Hope you get time to reply thanks
Any plans? These are amazing.
I love these doors! I would like to do something similar but would like to add the element of insulation. Southwest Georgia offers fierce climate swings and I intend to work in both winter (20 degrees) and summer (90-100 + 80% humidity) Any thoughts on doing so?
You'd have to do something completely different in order to incorporate insulation. I would do a search on youtube for "12 foot garage door." That guy makes a great set of doors using metal stud framing, and something like that would work with insulation. good luck and thanks for watching.
Amazing.
What type of hinges did you use ? Where can I get some?
Hinges on the outside are a no-go. Would be a shame if something happened to that Festool.
Dang Nice Man.
Do you think locally milled red or yellow cedar would be a good choice?
nice job mate
Glad you liked it and thanks for watching.
I was interested until I found this posh biscuit jointer is £895 in the UK!!! It looks a good system though just wish it was a bit cheaper
I see that - just trying to justify £1,000 for two drills next to each other
+SNORKYMEDIA
I agree, same reason I don't own a car. Horse and buggy work just fine for me.
Was wondering what hinges you used? I have similar set of carriage doors I am building based on this video. Thanks
Nothing unusual about them. Just standard 4 1/2" hinges. If I did it again, I'd have used 4 on each door instead of 3, but they work just fine. Thanks for watching.
where did you find the lumber
Beautiful and Amazing work Love It ! Any suggestions on how to make these doors without the festool and dominoes, that tool is over $1,000 and i can't afford it.
Thanks for the comment. There are a number of different ways for making doors, but large doors like these require strong, precise building. I once attempted similar doors using dowels and different types of routed joints, but it was impossible for me to get the precision I get from the Domino XL. I would suggest a continued search until you find a method you're comfortable with that's within your budget. Good luck with it and thanks for watching.
Awesome! Thanks...
Love those doors. Got a question about the hinges. With the pins on the outside, what is there to stop someone from removing the hinge pin and then the door? Are those special hinges that may require a tool or something to remove the pins? Just thinking about the security of the space.
+Croz 1007
Try removing the hinge pins from your front door and then remove the door, and you'll soon discover it simply can't be done.. Seriously, the idea that you can pop the pins and remove the door is a myth. The physics don't allow it. Oh sure with a crow bar, a helper and lots of time, you might be able to do it, but burglars don't think that way. There are 2 common types of security hinges in use, and they work well, but they're unnecessary. Of all the ways to break into a residence, popping the hinge pins of a door isn't even in the top 20. Especially with these doors. If we were to pop the pins, the door, which weighs hundreds of pounds, would be wedged in so tightly, it would be impossible to pull out. We have a saying i the door business, "locks only keep honest people out." If someone wants to break in, they'll find a way to do it and there are dozens of ways that are faster and easier than popping the hinge pins. Great question though. Thanks for watching.
Cool. Well, the look beautiful.
+Croz 1007
I'm glad you like the doors. The idea that doors can be removed by taking out the hinge pins is a myth. Go ahead and try it some time. You'll find that it's impossible if the door is put in properly and is locked. In addition, these particular doors are so heavy, they simply can't be moved without the hinge pins in place. Lastly, anybody who wants to get into a structure, will choose the fastest and easiest way to get in. It would be much easier to smash a window or stick a crowbar between two doors. We have a saying in our business, "Locks only keep out the honest people." Having said all that, there are 2 types of security hinges. One type has a small set screw in the barrel that can only be accessed once the door is open, and the other is a small, recessed clip on each half of the hinge that prevents the hinge from coming apart. Both are effective, but also a non-issue for reasons I've mentioned. Thanks for watching.
+Croz 1007
It's a myth that doors can be removed by removing the hinge pins. Try it sometime. Lock the door and then tap out the hinge pins. It's nearly impossible in a properly hung door. It's so difficult in fact that it's the last thing a burglar would ever try for it's simply too difficult. Imagine those pins were out of those hinges, then what? the door won't simply pop our or fall out. There isn't enough room to move it, not to mention the fact that these doors weigh hundreds of pounds and you wouldn't be able to budge them. Only the dumbest thief would try such a thing. any smart person would simply put a crowbar between the doors or smash a window. In all my years of fixing doors, I've never seen anybody break into a door by removing hinge pins.
+mittsdad It's all good, dude. No need to keep replying over and over about the door not being able to be removed. I was just curious when I first asked the question. I hope you took no offense to me asking the question in the first place. Sorry if you did.
Like I said, they look beautiful. Let's leave it at that.
are your hands shaky?
My only concern with making doors with this method of construction is there’s no haunch, which means it introduces the dangers of large rails twisting and possible shrinking on the joint. I’ve made doors using the domino method with and without a haunch....definitely a much better job with one
very good
Great video. I'm looking to replicate your doors (minus the windows). What's the height of your bottom rail? You mentioned that it was 48.5" long, but I didn't remember if you mentioned the height.
+Rick Rios
I don't recall exactly. I believe it was about 9.5". Good luck with your project. That's ambitious. Thanks for watching.
Nice from the uk
I scrolled thru Comments and no one commented your using beech tenons and not Ipe which Festool recommends for exterior work. Can the added expense of Ipe tenons the reason?
As you know, nothing related to Festool is inexpensive. I bought the beech tenons in bulk and use them for everything. It's not been an issue, but I appreciate you bringing that up. Thanks for watching.
Nice doors mitten man :)
+Nichol Alexander
thanks. Mitten Man? That's a new one, but it has a nice ring to it. Thanks for watching.
Sorry lol... Here in Canada Mitts are what you wear on your hands in winter. I just jumped to the visual that you were the keeper of some Mitten madness taking place on a winter morning with your kiddos :)
+Nichol Alexander
When UA-cam began many years ago, I signed up with skepticism. It wasn't the household name that it is now, and I didn't want to get spammed or scammed, so I made up the name "mitts dad" as a goof because at the time, one of my dogs was named Mitts. As fate would have it, the site has done quite well and because I've a bit of a following, I've kept the name. Growing up in Connecticut, I spent many cold days wearing mittens and I also spent many cold days regretting that I hadn't, so I'm familiar with the term and accept it gladly. I shared your remark with my daughter and she thought it was hilarious and now she's calling me mitten man with great laughter. Thanks...I think.
How ironic... My siblings had a Mittsy the dog when they were kids. I get it now, thanks; it's nice to know people you see on the web have stories and pasts :) I like my version better. Some poor dad scrambling to get out of a mudroom with his kiddos lol. I'll stop now with my nonsense.I'm gonna hopefully tackle a set of bi-folding carriage doors this summer and was combing the net looking for inspiration when I stumbled on yours. About 10 years ago I made a set myself, out of Trex decking of all things. I was hoping they would survive a nuclear attack I think? If I had to guess the weight, I'd say about 200 or more pounds a piece! They stood up well and didn't require finishing which was a nice feature. But... Trex gets stains eventually which don't come out. I think it's because of the wood fibers mixed in? I also found the expansion and contraction more radical then products made entirely of PVC. The little mice could walk right on in between'em on a cool day! So here I go again, round 2!Thanks Again,Cheers
+Nichol Alexander
Good luck with that. I find that heavy bifolds are very challenging because there are so many points where movement happens. My advice to anybody doing anything like this would be to go overboard on framing and shearing each side of the jamb. The slightest movement causes all kinds of adjustment issues with doors this size. Sounds like you know a thing or two though, so I'm sure you'll do just fine.
Curious about the material you used...
For the weight of those doors, three hinges?
When building this in humid climate do you need to install it loose for swelling? Did you seal the tops and bottoms of these doors?
That sounds like a great idea. Whenever working with doors that are this big and heavy, I always make my clearances much greater than standard doors. It's not so much the swelling of the doors as opposed the amount of movement they exhibit because they put so much stress on the jambs and that causes the framing to shift. Use at least 4 hinges on each door and reinforce the jamb as best you . That, along with wide clearances, should result in a fine door. And yes, always seal the entire door. Thanks for watching.
Let me ask you a question please. Why the styles are longer than the rails at one end of the door? thank you
Great question. That was done for a couple of reasons. By building the stiles a little longer, I don't have to worry about getting them perfect. In addition, when I have to handle or move the doors during construction, I can use the stile as a pivot or even drag them. Once everything is done, then I cut the stiles even and apply a finish to the door bottoms in the field. You don't HAVE to do it this way, but it was very helpful for me. Thanks for watching.
What's a tennion?
Muchos teñons guey.
Si, tienes, razo'n.
tenyons?
Where did you get the 8/4 fir? I’m having a hard time finding it.
Where did you get your lumber and get it milled?
That product was in Los Angeles and it was a place called LA Hardwood. They supply and mill. Not cheap. Thanks for watching.