I just bought them from Amazon(Prime member), but shortly after, saw them on a web sight for $30.00 less! What a bummer that was. No way to get a refund. Just purchased the 2200 grit stone, so now I have the complete set. Made a tray to house them in. Makes sharpening a breeze. Glad you made this video to show them. They are worth their weight in gold!
So, my question is: why did you use them right out of the box, rather than the required way the manufacturer states? The instructions say to not attempt to sharpen a plane iron or chisel, w/o 1st prepping the stone by 1 of the 3 methods. Also, have you tried the Krud Kutter yet? It is supposed to be a better cleaner than the windex. Not expensive either. You may want to view some of Paul Seller's vids on sharpening with diamond stones. Very educational.
Wood Chuk, welcome to the channel! I’m glad that you enjoy the plates as much as I do. I couldn’t agree more that they’re worth their weight in gold. It’s a little deceiving in this video but I store my plates in the boxes even though I’ve had them for a long time. I posted a video a while back about initializing them (ua-cam.com/video/3TEXK8sZfao/v-deo.html) and used Krud Cutter in the process. I also like using windex generally because it’s slightly less messy. With regards to Paul Sellers, absolutely! That man is incredible and his content is as well. I’ll have to go back and check our more of his sharpening videos because, at least for me, I always learn something new. Thanks for the feedback!
Hi, thanks for your reply and explanation. I used the hardened steel method for mine and it seemed to work great. When I get my 2200 stone, it will be mounted on my diamond plate slab so they will be all together in one place.
Also, my leather strop is applied to a hard piece of board. Drop it in the vise and strop away. 30 times is more than plenty to get that mirrored look. If you sharpen with the higher grits.
I still need to make my mounting board and I think you’re right that if I had one higher grit from the 1200, I wouldn’t need to strop as much. How did you adhere your strop to your board?
I actually made 2 strops. One has the smooth side out for knives and such, mounted on a piece of good quality ply, with strong double-faced tape. The 2nd one is on a piece of melamine with the rough side out. This is for my plane irons and chisels also applied with the double-faced tape. All of my sharpening projects came from watching Paul Seller's videos. He is so remarkable. My methods have greatly improved because of him. You will not regret setting your sharpening station the same way. I placed the 3 across from left right - 300,600,1200. The 2200 with be above them facing across the others, so the board isn't too wide. Drop it on the vise or sit it against the bench's edge like a bench hook.
I have been looking for a good video on how to sharpen my chisels and this was perfect! Is there a particular kind of leather strap (strop?) that works best or just any will be fine? Flannel game going strong
I’m glad you liked it and found it useful! Any leather strop should work well, below is a link to the one I use. www.amazon.com/Leather-Honing-Strop-Green-Compound/dp/B07214VMGB Glad you like the flannel! It’s perfect for the weather here.
Hi. I just recieved a 600 1,200 grit double sided plate. Both sides feel way rougher than stated on first use. I assume they get smoother with use, but how is one to know when its reached the stated grit number. Just subbed btw.
First! Welcome to Northwest Craftsman! We’re glad to have you here. Second, they will get smoother with use but should be very close if not spot on to their intended grit. If you are having trouble sharpening, I’d get in touch with Ultra Sharp.
Just subbed, I just put out a video, with these plates very impressed thus far...and great job on this vid, I understand this video is 2 years old but they recommend krud Kutter sold at home depot, to lub the blades, do you still use Windex or have you tried something else of late with the plates...thanks for sharing
Thanks! I’m glad you appreciated it! I initially used Krud Kutter but it was pretty messy and hard to clean up which is why I switched to Windex which was recommended by another woodworker. It’s worked great for me and I still use it. No rust on my plates which is what most people are concerned with, though I always make sure to wipe them off and let them air dry before putting them away.
Hi there I just watched your video on sharpening , I really enjoyed it and you came across very clear well done , can I ask you though what’s the brand of diamond plates your using
Thanks Kai! I appreciate the compliment. I use Ultrasharp Brand and have two options linked below. I use the 8” versions because they fit all of my tools and have plenty of space for a long travel. The 6” is a more budget friendly option and will work just as well, it’ll just be tighter. Ultrasharp 8” Diamond Stones amzn.to/3h3ctC9 Ultrasharp 6” Diamond Stones amzn.to/3xHLbqS
Hi, Thanks for the video. So I have head good things about these plates. The only thing is they are a tad coarser than Dmt. So do you have any experience with DMT plates? I read something about the ultra sharp 600 being more like a 400 grit. Being coarse don't bother me,but if I can get a ballpark if which ultra sharp plate finishes like a DMT 600 . Tye Dmt 600 was my favorite plate, but unfortunately they aren't what they used to be Mike
Hey Mike! Thanks for the compliment and question. I don’t have any experience with the DMT plates but I’ve heard that grit ratings are incredibly variable from one manufacturer to another. What I do know about these plates is that the 300 grit is aggressive enough for me to quickly remove dings and nicks in my edges and the 1200 is fine enough to pass me onto the leather strop for a shaving sharp finish. I know that’s not terribly quantitative but hopefully helps.
Great question! I still have these same ones and they work great. Granted, I use them intermittently. Paul Sellers, who uses them daily, has said his last him for many many years before he needs to replace them.
Thanks for this video! May I ask you some questions? 1- Can the diamond stone become clogged (as an oil stone) if used without lubricant? If, so can it be lapped/cleaned as new? 2- Can a finer diamond stone could replace the strop step? If so, which grit to aim?
Great questions! 1. It sure can! I recommend using with a lapping fluid of some kind. Krud Cutter & Windex work well. I also always rinse my plates off and fully dry before storing. I haven’t tried cleaning a clogged stone with fluid but I imagine it’s possible. 2. The stropping is purely optional, it just puts the finishing touches on the edge. Frankly, you should be fine going up to 1200 grit. If you’re looking for finer without a strop, I’d shoot for 3-5000+ but I’m also not an expert in this arena.
You are eagle eyed! I initially used Krud Kutter but it was too messy. Paul Sellers uses Windex so I assumed it was a good enough lapping fluid. It’s works so far 👌
I haven’t been able to find a good explanation of why. What is it about the water (I assume that’s also the issue with Windex) that makes it a poor choice?
If it’s too long for the base that comes with the ultra sharp plates, probably not. However, I’ve seen quite a few people just place their plates in some plywood using a router to make the slot.
I honestly think it’s six one way half a dozen another. Whichever method makes it easier for you to keep your chisels sharp, that’s what you should use.
Yeah I dont know. Because of how coated abrasives are made often the "grit" ratings are nonense, often they leave the same depth scratches, etc. I think Rob Cosman has the right idea. As far as stropping, you're way better off with diamond powder than that nasty nasty chromium oxide wax shite.
Yea, grit ratings are definitely all relative and I’ll have to search out his video on the diamond powder. I haven’t heard of that technique but it makes sense
@@NorthwestCraftsman Excellent and valid point about grit ratings more generally. I'm always remind folks of this fact. You have to know your gear. A 5k super stone is every bit as fine as a 10k chosera. a 1k chosera is finer than 6k cerax. You just need to know whats what. Far as Cosman, His video is most just promoting a simple but effective process, but hes promoting two products he's associated with. The trend diamond plate and the shapton glass 16k stone. The diamond lapidary powder/compound is my thing. Its very cheap. It a safer thing far as health sand safety than chromox. And the result are superb, vastly superior, for a wide range uses ranging from metal finishing to sharpening to glass and gemstone polishing. Obvious it also works on high carbide steels which normal abrasives will not cleanly cut, if you deal with those at all, they are getting more common on high end knives. You can get 5 grams of accurately graded diamond powder for under $10. This will last even a professional sharpener years. Once applied to your substrate of choice, its abrasive power usually outlives the substrate itself. By far one of the best weapons in the arsenal. I don't use anything else. I can control everything about it. The concentration of abrasive, the carrier I want to use for a given substrate, be it wax like those chromox bars, or oil or water or solvent or emulsion and apply it to my substrate of choice. I would avoid the commercial products tho, they are comically over priced. They sell you 30 cents of diamond powder in carrier of their choice and often selling for like $30+ . Its silly.
Nope! It works great! Yes, lapping fluid would be the gold standard but I haven’t run into any rust issues and it provides enough lubrication and debris removal to do the trick 👍
Great question! I haven’t used them industrially, very much as a hobbyist but that being said they’ve held up beautifully. No rust or other damage and still sharpen beautifully.
Do you use windex because you think that is what others are using/have see others using it? Because it’s not. They are using the blue colored lapping fluid from the brand TREND which happens to look like windex. Window cleaner in no way helps your sharpening, your stones, nor does it help excess grit slide away or lubricates your stone. Using it dry is a possibility if you later on feel like complaining about how the product is terrible because it lost all the diamond particles on it. You need some kind of oil (honing oil / lapping fluid) That actually made me laugh though so cheers…. Some people…
Hey Alexander, I appreciate your response. I use windex because that’s what Paul Sellers had been using, or at least glass cleaner, most of which are a similar ammonia base. I understand that a lapping fluid or lubricant would be best, however, I was using what I had on hand which I figured was better than using them dry. I do appreciate the info though as I am always learning. Have a great night! Josh Northwest Craftsman
@@NorthwestCraftsman wow. I see. Thanks for the reply. Reading my comment again I hope I didn’t seem arrogant or rude. No offense was meant. Thanks for the info.
Hey, no worries at all, one of the downsides in a written media is tone is completely absent and hard to read. I probably read into it too much and do legitimately appreciate the feedback. I can’t/won’t claim to be an expert and am always looking for those new nuggets.
I just bought them from Amazon(Prime member), but shortly after, saw them on a web sight for $30.00 less! What a bummer that was. No way to get a refund. Just purchased the 2200 grit stone, so now I have the complete set. Made a tray to house them in. Makes sharpening a breeze.
Glad you made this video to show them. They are worth their weight in gold!
What brand are these and how much
They've since introduced a 3000 grit stone. You may want to pick one up.
So, my question is: why did you use them right out of the box, rather than the required way the manufacturer states? The instructions say to not attempt to sharpen a plane iron or chisel, w/o 1st prepping the stone by 1 of the 3 methods.
Also, have you tried the Krud Kutter yet? It is supposed to be a better cleaner than the windex. Not expensive either.
You may want to view some of Paul Seller's vids on sharpening with diamond stones. Very educational.
Wood Chuk, welcome to the channel! I’m glad that you enjoy the plates as much as I do. I couldn’t agree more that they’re worth their weight in gold. It’s a little deceiving in this video but I store my plates in the boxes even though I’ve had them for a long time. I posted a video a while back about initializing them (ua-cam.com/video/3TEXK8sZfao/v-deo.html) and used Krud Cutter in the process. I also like using windex generally because it’s slightly less messy. With regards to Paul Sellers, absolutely! That man is incredible and his content is as well. I’ll have to go back and check our more of his sharpening videos because, at least for me, I always learn something new. Thanks for the feedback!
Hi, thanks for your reply and explanation. I used the hardened steel method for mine and it seemed to work great. When I get my 2200 stone, it will be mounted on my diamond plate slab so they will be all together in one place.
Also, my leather strop is applied to a hard piece of board. Drop it in the vise and strop away. 30 times is more than plenty to get that mirrored look. If you sharpen with the higher grits.
I still need to make my mounting board and I think you’re right that if I had one higher grit from the 1200, I wouldn’t need to strop as much. How did you adhere your strop to your board?
I actually made 2 strops. One has the smooth side out for knives and such, mounted on a piece of good quality ply, with strong double-faced tape. The 2nd one is on a piece of melamine with the rough side out. This is for my plane irons and chisels also applied with the double-faced tape. All of my sharpening projects came from watching Paul Seller's videos. He is so remarkable. My methods have greatly improved because of him. You will not regret setting your sharpening station the same way. I placed the 3 across from left right - 300,600,1200. The 2200 with be above them facing across the others, so the board isn't too wide. Drop it on the vise or sit it against the bench's edge like a bench hook.
I have been looking for a good video on how to sharpen my chisels and this was perfect! Is there a particular kind of leather strap (strop?) that works best or just any will be fine?
Flannel game going strong
I’m glad you liked it and found it useful! Any leather strop should work well, below is a link to the one I use.
www.amazon.com/Leather-Honing-Strop-Green-Compound/dp/B07214VMGB
Glad you like the flannel! It’s perfect for the weather here.
its been a couple of years since you made this video. how have the diamond plates pan out.
Phenomenally. No rust and still sharpen well. Admittedly, I am a hobbyist so I don’t use them daily but overall, I love them.
Hi. I just recieved a 600 1,200 grit double sided plate. Both sides feel way rougher than stated on first use. I assume they get smoother with use, but how is one to know when its reached the stated grit number. Just subbed btw.
First! Welcome to Northwest Craftsman! We’re glad to have you here.
Second, they will get smoother with use but should be very close if not spot on to their intended grit. If you are having trouble sharpening, I’d get in touch with Ultra Sharp.
Just subbed, I just put out a video, with these plates very impressed thus far...and great job on this vid, I understand this video is 2 years old but they recommend krud Kutter sold at home depot, to lub the blades, do you still use Windex or have you tried something else of late with the plates...thanks for sharing
Thanks! I’m glad you appreciated it! I initially used Krud Kutter but it was pretty messy and hard to clean up which is why I switched to Windex which was recommended by another woodworker. It’s worked great for me and I still use it. No rust on my plates which is what most people are concerned with, though I always make sure to wipe them off and let them air dry before putting them away.
Hi there I just watched your video on sharpening , I really enjoyed it and you came across very clear well done , can I ask you though what’s the brand of diamond plates your using
Thanks Kai! I appreciate the compliment.
I use Ultrasharp Brand and have two options linked below. I use the 8” versions because they fit all of my tools and have plenty of space for a long travel. The 6” is a more budget friendly option and will work just as well, it’ll just be tighter.
Ultrasharp 8” Diamond Stones
amzn.to/3h3ctC9
Ultrasharp 6” Diamond Stones
amzn.to/3xHLbqS
Hi,
Thanks for the video.
So I have head good things about these plates. The only thing is they are a tad coarser than Dmt. So do you have any experience with DMT plates? I read something about the ultra sharp 600 being more like a 400 grit. Being coarse don't bother me,but if I can get a ballpark if which ultra sharp plate finishes like a DMT 600 . Tye Dmt 600 was my favorite plate, but unfortunately they aren't what they used to be
Mike
Hey Mike! Thanks for the compliment and question. I don’t have any experience with the DMT plates but I’ve heard that grit ratings are incredibly variable from one manufacturer to another. What I do know about these plates is that the 300 grit is aggressive enough for me to quickly remove dings and nicks in my edges and the 1200 is fine enough to pass me onto the leather strop for a shaving sharp finish. I know that’s not terribly quantitative but hopefully helps.
@@NorthwestCraftsman Thank you - Sir!
Absolutely! Glad you have you as a part of the community!
How long do they last?
Great question! I still have these same ones and they work great. Granted, I use them intermittently. Paul Sellers, who uses them daily, has said his last him for many many years before he needs to replace them.
Thanks for this video! May I ask you some questions? 1- Can the diamond stone become clogged (as an oil stone) if used without lubricant? If, so can it be lapped/cleaned as new? 2- Can a finer diamond stone could replace the strop step? If so, which grit to aim?
Great questions!
1. It sure can! I recommend using with a lapping fluid of some kind. Krud Cutter & Windex work well. I also always rinse my plates off and fully dry before storing. I haven’t tried cleaning a clogged stone with fluid but I imagine it’s possible.
2. The stropping is purely optional, it just puts the finishing touches on the edge. Frankly, you should be fine going up to 1200 grit. If you’re looking for finer without a strop, I’d shoot for 3-5000+ but I’m also not an expert in this arena.
Weird. Those Ultra Sharp diamond plates advertise using Krud Kutter, and not Windex.
You are eagle eyed! I initially used Krud Kutter but it was too messy. Paul Sellers uses Windex so I assumed it was a good enough lapping fluid. It’s works so far 👌
The windex is ok in a pinch but Lapping Fluid it much better. The Windex is mostly water. And water is a 👎🏽
I haven’t been able to find a good explanation of why. What is it about the water (I assume that’s also the issue with Windex) that makes it a poor choice?
Rust the metal and gets under the surface and will pop up the Diamond surface
I use tap water
Just bought a 12 in DMT and looks like it doesn’t fit on base. Is there a way to put it on?
If it’s too long for the base that comes with the ultra sharp plates, probably not. However, I’ve seen quite a few people just place their plates in some plywood using a router to make the slot.
@@NorthwestCraftsman it’s got a magnetic base so I assume it should hold. It has a handle on the bottom.
Cut 2 inch off the diamond stone
Not sure about a convex bevel
I honestly think it’s six one way half a dozen another. Whichever method makes it easier for you to keep your chisels sharp, that’s what you should use.
I like micro bevels
Yeah I dont know. Because of how coated abrasives are made often the "grit" ratings are nonense, often they leave the same depth scratches, etc. I think Rob Cosman has the right idea. As far as stropping, you're way better off with diamond powder than that nasty nasty chromium oxide wax shite.
Yea, grit ratings are definitely all relative and I’ll have to search out his video on the diamond powder. I haven’t heard of that technique but it makes sense
@@NorthwestCraftsman Excellent and valid point about grit ratings more generally. I'm always remind folks of this fact. You have to know your gear. A 5k super stone is every bit as fine as a 10k chosera. a 1k chosera is finer than 6k cerax. You just need to know whats what. Far as Cosman, His video is most just promoting a simple but effective process, but hes promoting two products he's associated with. The trend diamond plate and the shapton glass 16k stone. The diamond lapidary powder/compound is my thing. Its very cheap. It a safer thing far as health sand safety than chromox. And the result are superb, vastly superior, for a wide range uses ranging from metal finishing to sharpening to glass and gemstone polishing. Obvious it also works on high carbide steels which normal abrasives will not cleanly cut, if you deal with those at all, they are getting more common on high end knives. You can get 5 grams of accurately graded diamond powder for under $10. This will last even a professional sharpener years. Once applied to your substrate of choice, its abrasive power usually outlives the substrate itself. By far one of the best weapons in the arsenal. I don't use anything else. I can control everything about it. The concentration of abrasive, the carrier I want to use for a given substrate, be it wax like those chromox bars, or oil or water or solvent or emulsion and apply it to my substrate of choice. I would avoid the commercial products tho, they are comically over priced. They sell you 30 cents of diamond powder in carrier of their choice and often selling for like $30+ . Its silly.
Windex. Are you joking?
Nope! It works great! Yes, lapping fluid would be the gold standard but I haven’t run into any rust issues and it provides enough lubrication and debris removal to do the trick 👍
Im curious, how these stones hold over time? This video is 3 yo.
Great question! I haven’t used them industrially, very much as a hobbyist but that being said they’ve held up beautifully. No rust or other damage and still sharpen beautifully.
That is dumb.
Do you use windex because you think that is what others are using/have see others using it? Because it’s not. They are using the blue colored lapping fluid from the brand TREND which happens to look like windex. Window cleaner in no way helps your sharpening, your stones, nor does it help excess grit slide away or lubricates your stone. Using it dry is a possibility if you later on feel like complaining about how the product is terrible because it lost all the diamond particles on it. You need some kind of oil (honing oil / lapping fluid) That actually made me laugh though so cheers…. Some people…
Hey Alexander, I appreciate your response. I use windex because that’s what Paul Sellers had been using, or at least glass cleaner, most of which are a similar ammonia base. I understand that a lapping fluid or lubricant would be best, however, I was using what I had on hand which I figured was better than using them dry. I do appreciate the info though as I am always learning.
Have a great night!
Josh
Northwest Craftsman
@@NorthwestCraftsman wow. I see. Thanks for the reply. Reading my comment again I hope I didn’t seem arrogant or rude. No offense was meant. Thanks for the info.
Hey, no worries at all, one of the downsides in a written media is tone is completely absent and hard to read. I probably read into it too much and do legitimately appreciate the feedback. I can’t/won’t claim to be an expert and am always looking for those new nuggets.
@@NorthwestCraftsman same here. You can always learn something new and you can learn something from everyone.