Do you have a 3rd gen 2014-2019 Toyota Highlander V6 (non-hybrid)? I just made a new DIY oil change guide for that. ua-cam.com/video/UTzHLUJJK_E/v-deo.html
Very good video. Only thing I recommend is putting the plastic panels on last after you filled it with oil. That way you can check for leaks and verify everything is good, and clean residue oil wth break clean, after everything is good then put the panels on. Also I never prime oil filters which is a whole different subject lol. Great video
Thank you! Got my 2021 oil changed with this tutorial. The bolts and housing were much tighter than described. The previous service mechanic must have tighten it very hard.
I'm really glad my video helped! I'm not surprised the housing was over-tightened. Something is going on with the housing, maybe not just bad techs but like the way the plastic housing handles heat cycles.
I appreciate the generous comment. One of my goals when I started was to provide complete info and seeing a lot of videos that didn't have it. I'm working on a 2017 Highlander video now. It's basically the same steps but it'll be newer and higher quality. I hope you'll consider subscribing to catch that when I upload it. Thanks again for watching and commenting! www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
Beware that SOME dealers over-torque the oil filter housing. I had to use a 2 foot breaker bar to remove it three times with different cars and once broke the aluminum housing socket. (I had the SoCal dealer that last changed it give me a free oil change and replace the broken tool. ) Also keep the oil fill cap and dip stick closed if the engine is very warm. With hot 0-30 viscosity it comes gushing out when you pull the plug, keeping it closed up top will give more control on where it goes.
I've been noticing the same now that I've filmed a couple different oil changes. The other thing I'm curious about is if something is happening to the plastic housing as it heat cycles. That might make it seize up too. Really great tip on keeping things closed off of the engine is too warm too. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
I'll only admit it here, but I have also rewatched my video to make sure I do it right. 😂 Also my description has all the specs listed, so you can also just get what you need without watching. Thanks again for the comment!
Hi rk, appreciate the comment! I realize I never listed the torque specs in the description, but I did mention in the video the drain bolt should be 30 ft-lbs. I'm not sure what the torque specs are for the housing and the housing drain bolt. I'm going to guess like 15 and 10 ft-lbs. If you know, please do share. I would be glad to add it to the description. Checking for leaks before finishing is a good tip as well. I'll be sure to mention that in future videos. My goal is to do basic maintenance videos for lots of different cars. I hope you'll consider subscribing and keeping me honest in future videos too. Thank you again for taking the time and watching my video! www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
Appreciate the comment, Zombie. Definitely a learning from this being one of my first videos. I do mention it in the description but your comment is worth pinning for future watchers. Now your comment can help tell folks the right thing to do. Thanks again for calling it out and I hope you consider subscribing for more videos like this! www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
Shouldn’t you start the engine and run for a bit, then check the level after it sits on level ground? That way you know the filter is fully charged with oil. Just suggesting.
Yes, great suggestion and I would agree that is best practice. It would have been safer to underfill from the manual's oil amount, level/start the car and check the oil before topping off. I put a little too much faith in priming the filter and filling to spec. Thank you for the advice!
@@mldiy - here’s what I do on my HL. Old Tropicana juice jug marked with a Sharpy the extra amount over the 5 quarts. Keep that jug as part of oil change kit. Put in the 5 quarts fill jug to that line empty it all. Never even measure anything. 😀
@@condor5635 I love it, great suggestion! And this way I know the car is getting its Vitamin C as well. 😂Thanks so much for taking the time to share your knowledge in a comment.
I loosen the plug nut a few turns short of off and put a zip tie over the nut and spin it off with the extended end. Usually the plug will stay on the zip tie and not fall in the oil and oil stays off your hand.
Thank you for the comment! Yes, one of my goals was just providing more information for folks to make a decision on if they wanted to try doing it themselves, or at least confirm their mechanic is someone they can trust. Either way, I'm really glad to have helped, thanks again.
Thanks for doing this videoI have the exact same SUV. Brought it to dealer for a 1k break in oil change. Felt like such a hassle, I am going to do it myself next time. Watching this video gives me the confidence to do it. Will you be doing more highlander maintenance videos in the future?
RTS, so glad to hear the video inspired you to DIY next time. The maintenance package that comes with the car (assuming you bought it new from the dealer) only has oil changes at 10K (or 12 months) and 20K (24 months). If you don't drive that much, e.g. you'll only be at 7K miles at 12 months, just let the dealer do it since it'll be free and technically a use it or lose it schedule with the complimentary Toyota Care. If you drive more city miles than highway, it's worth sticking to a 5,000 miles or every 6 month oil change. I'll be doing another self oil change before I hit my 10K/12 month free service. (Also, I didn't call it out in the video, but Costco brand 0w-20 synthetic oil is perfectly fine for the Highlander and make each self oil change that much cheaper. It's basically like $4 a quart when you buy the 5qt bottles. That's roughly $30 in parts for oil, oem filter, gasket) I definitely plan on doing more maintenance videos for the Highlander but these cars are just so darn reliable. Let me know if there's any particular maintenance you're interested in. And do me a favor? I'm trying to reach 100 subscribers because UA-cam unlocks more features for content creators at that milestone. Your subscription would help me get there before the new year. It's the best way to be notified when the next Highlander video drops too! I really appreciate that you took the time to comment. Thank you! www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
@@viktorbondar4174 Request received and I'll add it to my list! And yea, generally newer cars don't have a transmission dipstick anymore. One would check fluid levels with the overfill hole and that's how you'd fill it as well. How many miles does your Highlander have? I would say you don't have to do this for 50 or 60K miles, btw.
You're absolutely right. This was my first video and while I did check the oil again level, I didn't film it and should have done better to mention that. That said, my latest videos all properly do what you say. I usually fill to like 80%, get the car level, check the dipstick and fill the rest of the way to ensure the car is properly topped off. Thanks for taking the time to watch the video and to comment!
Toyota overall makes a quality product, but thier maintenance recommendations are designed to make sure if followed major components (engine & drive train) will be sure to outlast the factory warranty, probably any extended warranty, and your 72 month loan. After that they would like to see you back at the dealership buying a new vehicle. :) I saved $ for a long time to pay for a new Toyota without a loan. I did the 1k change, now it's every 6 months or 5K miles whichever comes 1st.
Great info! I do this to my 2022 Highlander. Also, reset Maintenance data, rotate tires every 5k miles. Would like to report Carfax data that oil changed was performed only dealers reports that oil changed.
Great comment and callout items. For me, I was trying to "hide" this break-in oil change since the car still has ToyotaCare. I intentionally didn't reset the oil reminder. I'll see about adding some info for that in the description or making a Short about it. Thanks again for the comment and hope you enjoyed the video!
"Typically the upper and lower marks on the dip-stick represents one quart of oil." That may have been true at one time or it may be true for some makes but NOT for modern Toyotas. There is 1.6 quarts difference on our 2009 four cylinder. It wouldn't surprise me if there was 1.8 quarts difference between the two marks on your V6 engine. The lower mark represents the safe minimum oil lever and the upper mark represents the safe maximum.
Thank you for your comment. I did see in the manual a note that the dipstick with reference to 1.6/1.8 quarts. It was written a little confusing so I went with 1 quart so people didn't accidentally overfill. I'm pinning your comment so people can see your post.
The Highlander both last generation and this generation has used the cartridge style filter, same with the RAV4. But the Prius, Camry and I think Corolla all still use spin-on style filters. So it's split like 50/50 from what I've seen. Appreciate you taking the time to comment!
Roger, really appreciate you sharing. I didn't know an adapter like this existed. Genuinely asking though, what's the benefit to this other than opportunistically upgrading the OEM filter housing if/when it cracks? The OEM oil filters cartridges are like $5 at the dealer, so it seems like it's not for saving money. Appreciate you taking the time to watch my video and comment!
@@mldiy I like it for the convenience, also the spin on filters may secure the paper filter cartridge better with the metal plate holding the paper element a bit more securely.. The spin-ons have the relief valve built in. I am used to the spin on filters. The cartridge filters must be of equal quality, those Toyota engines last 300,000 or more!!!! The adapters are a bit expensive as you saw, mine was $254.00 or so, but they are high quality. Baxter is making them for other makes and models also, they started with Toyota I believe. Goo luck with your future videos.
@@mldiy I will also add, I just saw the past few days on You-Tube where some people had to use impact wrenches, in one case a large breaker bar, to remove the Toyota filter housing. I was not aware of that, it makes you wonder if these quick lube garages even change the oil filters. They should not be that tight after one oil change cycle, unless they are tightening them down too much.
@@rogermignone9850 I just had a helluva time removing the oil filter housing on a Rav4 which has the same housing and filter (Toyota definitely so smart using the same parts on all their engines, though). I have a feeling the lube tech did exactly what you said. I really appreciate the follow up post about why you chose the adapter too. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!
I'm glad you liked it! Thank you for taking the time to comment and I'll home you consider subscribing to help me hit 1000 subs, a number UA-cam cares about to verify content creators like me. Thanks again!
On my 2011 Toyota Camry I switched to a cast aluminum oil filter housing . It is one that comes with a Toyota SUV from the factory now . And I made sure to lube all around [ inside ] the two O-Rings with fresh new oil or a silicone spray lube , etc . As someone's experience was that when installing the oil filter housing . One O-Ring got pinched and started leaking . And though some have not replaced the bottom O-Ring regularly , why not !? It come with the filter , use it . And from experience , at the store , if possible open the box to see if both O-Rings are there . I had bought a filter and missing one of them .
Peter, thanks for bringing the cast aluminum oil filter housing to my attention, I didn't know that existed and seems like a great upgrade. I'll see how the housing on the highlander holds up over time. Good advice all around for the o-rings too. For the dealer OEM filter, the o-rings come in one plastic package, so hopefully they always have both. I know some aftermarket filters don't come with the disposable housing drain attachment or the smaller o-ring. I think it's suppose to be a cost savings. Not sure why one would go aftermarket when the OEM filters cost $4.95 from the dealer (that is what I paid). Let me know if you have any other DIY maintenance or fixes you'd like to see on the Highlander, I appreciate your suggestions and hope you'll come back to see those videos by clicking on this one-click subscribe link: www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1 Thank you so much for watching the video and taking the time to comment.
I just did my last free ToyotaCare oil change as well on the Highlander! I used wanting to do an extra engine "break in" oil change as an excuse to film this, which was my video ever video on UA-cam. Thank you for the comment and let me know if there's other Highlander DIY content you'd like to see in the future.
I’m curious what the difference is with the hybrids if any. 23’ hybrid specifically. Thanks for the video. Also thanks to the other commenters who mentioned checking for leaks. 👍
Hi Jovaz, unfortunately for the 4th gen they switched engines. The third gen was the same V6 with a hybrid. I believe your 23 uses the YZZN1 spin on filter and will have a different oil capacity. Definitely double check. The only thing my video will help with is how to remove the underbody panel. Hope this helps.
Great video, really well done. I noticed a couple of things I would suggest, but they have already been addressed in the comments. Overall this is still really one of the best videos I've seen. I looked up the oil filter wrench you used and I plan to purchase it, it does state on Amazon that it does not fit a 2021 Highlander, but I'm assuming because it shows a 0.3 difference in the measurement. But if it worked for your 22, I imagine it's going to work for my 21.
Hi Dave, sorry for the delayed response over the long weekend. I would be really surprised if the Motivx cap wrench doesn't fit your 2021--if you have the 3.5L V6. I'm highly confident it's the same engine and filter housing. All of the previous gen Highlanders also have the same housing (and I made a video for the 3rd gen Highlander as well!). The cap wrench even works well for Toyota's spin-on filters. I've used it on a couple vehicles to great success. Hopefully I responded to you before you tackled the oil change. Please do let me know how it goes, I love hearing the success stories. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.
Thanks for the reply! I had to do some traveling so I couldn't get to the oil change until today. The tool fit perfectly and worked really well. The housing was really on there, so I'm assuming the guys from the dealership may have over tightened it a bit. I had to get a breaker bar and very gently break it loose before I could use my regular ratchet. Everything went smoothly and it's running well. This is my first Toyota, the closest thing I've had to this in terms of oil changes is a Mazda 3. Again, great video and overview!
My neighbors 2018 camry se v6 had a 0w-16 sticker on the dash board under the hood. After he got it changed at priority toyota they put a 5w-20 sticker there in place. I would rather have the protection of a thicker oil and maybe castrol edge 5w-20 in the winter and maybe 5w-30 in the summer
That's really interesting to hear. I'm going to see if there's any TSBs recommending a heavier weight, especially if a dealership updated the sticker. Thanks so much for sharing and I hope you enjoyed the video!
Hi, everything is linked in the description (it is the 64mm oil wrench). The description also has all the other tools, torque specs and capacities all organized and easy to reference, so definitely check it out! Thanks for the question and good luck with your DIY.
I'm glad it was helpful! I appreciate you taking the time to comment and if you haven't already, every like and subscribe greatly helps me out, thank you. www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
Có, chúng tôi phải đưa nó đến cơ sở xử lý chất thải nguy hại để xử lý đúng cách. Tôi không biết liệu nó có được tái chế ở đó không. (Tin nhắn này được dịch bởi Google Dịch để tôi có thể trả lời bạn bằng ngôn ngữ của bạn) Cảm ơn bạn đã xem!
My pleasure! Comments like yours motivate me to make more videos. If there are other videos you're looking for, please do share your suggestions. And if you haven't already, subscribing will make sure you see future videos and really helps tell UA-cam that I'm making content you want to see. Here's a link to subscribe in one click: www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1 Thank you so much for watching the video and leaving a comment.
Hi, the housing torque spec is only 18 ft-lbs which is easy to achieve by hand. If you're using a torque wrench, you can use the filter cap wrench with it, but my goal was to show that it doesn't need to be that tight. I also end up tightening it slightly more when I put on the housing plug, which is only 10 ft-lbs. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
The dealer must have used a impact wrench. My drain plug needed a breaker bar and the filter plug housing I couldn't get off. Also when I was taking the protecting shroud off bolts came down..the dealership oil idiot for got to pit them back on. The dealership was called and the service manager never called me back. .
Anthony, ug, so sorry to hear. Did you ever get the filter housing plug off? Short of a vice to hold the housing down while I took off the plug, I'm not sure how I'd do it. Maybe if you have an old school filter wrench, you could try that in one hand holding the housing in place and a square drive in the other. Good luck with that and reply if you want more help brainstorming a solution. It's definitely one of the reasons I wanted to make videos like this, to be able to show that it's not that hard to DIY. If you don't mind a couple clicks, subscribing really helps me out as a new content creator. Thank you for leaving a comment. I really appreciate you. www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
Hi, it doesn't reset automatically. It's actually really easy to do. Hit the start button without your foot on the brake to get the dash on (key-on engine-off in car speak). Using the arrow keys on the left side of the steering wheel, hit the down/up keys to select the gear icon on the screen in the middle of your dash and hit OK. Then hit the right/left keys to get to the car with the gear on it. In that menu, go all the way down until you see "Scheduled Maintenance", then hit OK and it will prompt you with a yes/no choice to reset the data. Best of luck, thanks for watching.
Is that a designated location of where you're supposed to place the jack stands? I'm looking to start doing my own oil changes but want to have a fail safe in case something happens with the ramps.
Hi, great question. My order of preference is 1) pinchweld but the ramp is in the way of it, or 2) sub-frame which is what I used in the video and option 3) is bottom the suspension, which on some cars is at the bottom of the strut and some cars a knuckle/bushing point on the control arm. Option 3 loads the suspension so isn't great if you are trying to do suspension work, and the suspension connects to the subframe, so the subframe is used to holding the weight of the whole car. And of course the pinchweld is what the engineers built into the car so it can be serviced. Hope this was helpful and good luck with your oil change! Thanks for watching.
Hi Ian, if you have tools, even basic ones, then the saving is the parts you guys, so in this case, oil and filter. All the parts (and tools) you need, I have recommendations in the description of the video too, so you can decide yourself if it is worth it. If you don't have tools, then the savings is longer term because that first DIY oil change will cost more than going to a shop, but every one after will be cheaper. Generally though, if you are just calculating dollars, your time is valuable and needs to be taken into consideration. I would say the main reason I learned to DIY and wanted to share is I find genuine joy and satisfaction in doing it myself. It gives me a reason to look under the hood and poke around. It makes me appreciate my vehicle that much more. I hope this helps and you'll consider subscribing to help out the channel. Thank you. Clicking here subscribes for you: www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
@@Boba_crumbs don’t buy your oil at the dealer like this guy. Go buy Kirkland synthetic it’s like $30 for 10 quarts. Buying your oil at the dealers is a rip off.
Hi Santini, yes I can explain. The "without filter" amount is if for some reason you were to change their oil without replacing the filter, then you would only need 5.6 qt of oil because the filter housing would still have about .2 qt of oil in it. You'll see in my video that I primed the oil filter by pouring some oil into it. I had to keep track of that to make sure I didn't exceed 5.8 qt of oil (the "with filter" amount). I hope this helps. If so, you subscribing to the channel really helps me out. 100 subscribers is a milestone for new content creators and unlocks additional functions for me. I appreciate the consideration! www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
Great video!!! Regarding maintenance services, my average miles per 6 month is 2k to 3k miles, knowing this my questions is: it is better to wait 5kmiles or do it every 6 months? Thank you
Hi and great question. It depends on how you're driving. If you're doing a lot of short trips in town with stop and go traffic, I would change every 6 months. If you're doing mostly highway miles, you can probably wait a full year (or change at 5k miles). And keep in mind that 6 months/5k miles is still half of Toyota's 10k or 1 year recommendation for full synthetic, so you are well ahead of the general car owner just for asking the question! Thanks and I hope you'll consider subscribing, it really helps tell UA-cam that my content is worth watching. Much appreciated! www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
Hi Don, appreciate the comment! The oil was arguably pretty clean. All I saw in the filter element was some stuff that just looked like lint, nothing really suggesting metal. I'm so used to older cars that needed a break-in oil change and I do recall seeing little metal bits back in the day. In hindsight, I should have sent the oil off for analysis to confirm if such an early oil change was even needed. When you mention 10-30, are you meaning to mix the weights? My understanding was that oil weights should never be mixed. Also the Highlander's manual only mentioned 5w-20 as an alternate and only in a pinch. That suggests higher viscosity might do more harm than good. Thanks so much for taking the time to watch my video.
@@mldiy Even into the 2000s some Motorcycles were prone to poor cleanout of machining dust from the cases. I did one at 600 miles that was so sparkly I did it again at 1500 miles, where it was whistle clean.
Thanks for the comment! Agreed on the priming I have gone either way especially for topside filters in Subarus and Audis, but for the other point, I'll trust the views of folks like @HumbleMechanic way more than you though 😂 ua-cam.com/video/YhJIcsMaa9k/v-deo.html
So crazy, I just saw a Craftsman version at Lowes today, it was on clearance sale. I almost bought it but couldn't justify it over fingers. Maybe if I was a lube tech and had to turn around oil changes in 30 minutes underneath hot engines. Do you have one and do you like it? It's not too late for me to go back to Lowes! I appreciate you taking the time to comment, thank you.
@@brewdogjd You convinced me, will be picking one up today. Again, I appreciate you taking the time to reply. Also hey, just coincidentally, right now you could be my 100th subscriber. If you liked this video, I hope you will consider clicking here :) www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1 Thanks again for the recommendation!
If you remove the old filter after draining the filter housing why not fore go draining the old oil since you filled the new filter with new oil before reassembly
Hi dcb, thanks for the question! If you don't drain the housing and try to remove it, oil leaks out as you unscrew it. I'm not sure it's worth keeping the old oil even if that didn't happen. The oil capacity quoted in the manual--for most cars--usually includes the oil needed to re-soak a new filter with oil, so the old oil just throws off the measurement of you keep it. That all said, since I filmed this video, I don't even pre-fill filters anymore. It's easier and more consistent to just let the car circulate the oil on first startup after the change. I hope this answers your question, thanks and please consider subscribing to help out the channel. 🙏
Hey vb2k3, the jackstands and ramps are both from harbor freight, links here: www.harborfreight.com/13000-lb-gvwr-capacity-portable-vehicle-ramp-set-63956.html www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-aluminum-jack-stands-91760.html
Hi Ahmed, it's like $40 for six quarts at the dealership. The Costco Kirkland brand full synthetic 0w-20 is an option too. It just has to be ILSAC GF-6A rated and the Kirkland brand is. That takes it down to $4 per quart, but you have to buy in bulk. I appreciate the comment and hope to see you post again on future videos!
I've been buying cars for 50 yrs and have never had a good experience with a service department at a dealership, so learn how to do routine service or find a good repair shop that's been recommended by a trusted friend. You will have less trouble and save money.
Andre, I appreciate the comment! One of the goals of my channel is to show people that car maintenance and repairs aren't that hard. It's great if someone can DIY after watching a video like this, but I would find it equally rewarding if a viewer just had more confidence to navigate a conversation with a service rep and ensure they got what they asked for. I hope you'll stick around and share your wisdom on future videos, you can subscribe with one click here: www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1 Thank you so much for taking the time to watch my video.
@jondotcom nah fam I'm good bro should I do my own oil change or service my car some other place even though my car is on warranty would that VOID the warranty??
Yep! Every 5000 miles I told the guy that I’m buying the car not leasing but the guy said that’s what the Toyota recommended 😢my Cross still under warranty and told me 10 thousand for 30 thousand oil change and after that 5 thousand wt coz they know my warranty last 30 thousand
Hi Rong, unfortunately the 2023 Highlander switched to a Turbo 4-cylinder instead of the V6. Be careful on UA-cam, there are some videos claiming their v6 oil change will work on 2023 but they are just trying to get search results. That said, the process to remove the under body panel and the location of the drain bolt and oil filter are very similar. The 4-cylinder uses a different amount of oil and a different filter. I don't know the specs off hand, but I believe it's the same engine as the 2022 NX350, so you can look for an oil change guide for that car. Or if you're in the bay area SF, I'm happy to help.
I took my highlander to two dealerships they say it don`t need an oil change before 10k miles. I dont know if a mom n pop will know all these steps to change oil on modern SUV s .
Did you buy the car new? If so, Toyota does free maintenance on the car for the first 25,000 miles. Because it is free, they will not want to change your oil until the recommended interval. If you don't have the free maintenance, it really depends on how you drive your Highlander. If you do a lot of highway miles, every 10k miles / 1 year is totally reasonable. If you do a lot of short drives in stop and go traffic, it's considered heavy duty and even Toyota recommends changing oil at 5k/6 months. The official Toyota service schedule specifically mentions this. Any mom and pop shop would be able to do this oil change, no worries there. But the way I see it, is if you can learn to do your own oil changes, since it will be less than half the cost of going to a shop, you can do twice as many oil changes and not feel guilty about it! Thanks for watching and commenting.
I have the dealer's extended warranty with oil changes but I take it at the 10,000-mile mark only since at the 5000 they don't change the oil so I change it at 5000 and let them change it at 10,000 so I get my money's worth too! 😅
I'm due for my first ToyotaCare (10K) Oil change soon! I get that engine technology and oil are better these days, but still paranoid enough to want 5K oil changes. Totally agree!
Hi Kevin, great question and I think the answer depends on how you view things. Receipt for receipt at the same dealership: $66.19 for oil and filter for the parts I used in the video. And $137.41 for an oil change service quoted. This is Bay Area California so ymmv. But don't forget I also bought tools like ramps, filter wrenches, a toolset, etc. So for me it's a commitment to change my own oil moving forward, otherwise, the cost of the tools makes a single oil change more expensive than the dealership. Additionally, I think I can do an oil change for $30 if I buy oil and filter outside of the dealership. Thanks for your comment and for watching this video, which was the first video I ever made for my channel!
Funny thing with me is the ease of oil changes is one of the biggest factors that determines my purchase. If I cannot reach the filter and drain plug within 7 seconds I won’t buy it. I hate having to pull off panels 😡
I totally hear you. Sometimes it feels like the slightly improved aerodynamics and road noise reduction is just an excuse to stop potential DIYers from working on their own cars. The funny part is on this Highlander, the drain plug is sort of accessible without removing the panel, but the filter is not. That said, it's not 7 seconds fast, but it's not that bad, maybe 97 seconds to remove two bolts and 4 plastic clips to reach the filter and drain plug. I'll time myself next time and report back. Thank you for your comment. At 100 subscribers, UA-cam actually unlocks more functions for new creators like me. I'm only a handful away. I'd appreciate your consideration in helping me get there, thank you! www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
Yes! Those are cool. For me the time sink is in removing the underbody panel, so at that point dealing with a drain bolt isn't adding more time, relatively speaking. Awesome videos on your page too, I hope you do more. UA-cam is going to lower the requirements for ad revenue to 500 subscribers next year so a good time to ramp back up! I subscribed.
Good call out, thanks for sharing. I'm personally a fan of the 5 min rule: warm up the car for about 5 minutes, mostly to circulate the oil and better suspend contaminants.
@@sjc3081 Thank you! I just posted my 10th video and comments like yours keep me motivated to make more. If car repair how-to guides and tool unboxings are interesting to you, your support by subscribing would really help UA-cam understand my content is worth promoting. Clicking this link will subscribe you. I appreciate your time, thank you again. www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
@@shinigami117s8 Do you mind explaining? I have wheel chocks to prevent the car from rolling back, and I have jack stands in case the ramps collapse. They will catch the car before it crushes me. In this scenario I wouldn't care about what happened to the car. I only want a few precious seconds to roll out from under the car and go hug my kids.
Welcome fellow Highlander owner, appreciate you taking the time to comment! Yes, gloves before starting work. No regrets and no apologies for wanting to keep my hands clean. They are like ten cents a pair, no reason to be precious about when to wear them. I hope you'll stop by more often when I release future Highlander DIY videos. I'm sure I have a lot to learn from you. Thanks again.
Hi Dang. I don't have enough information to help you, but I would guess your battery is weak and needs a jump or short recharge. You likely left a door open while you did everything and it drained the battery enough where the car doesn't crank, but all the dash lights are coming on.
The whole oil change thing is way overrated. Synthetic oil is good for far longer than we think. The tolerances on modern engines are very close. And the oil is very thin. Stop overthinking it people. As long as you change your oil twice a year you're good.
Thank you for your video, and I appreciate that. While I was trying to change the oil and filter, the housing of the filter was too~~ tight and in the middle of the 3/8 socket was almost broken, so I ended up to change just oil. Maybe Toyota center overtightened those. I have 15k miles now, and the last service was done at 10k before, so I believe it should be ok until 20k. After that, I think I should come by a service center again asking them not to overtighten them. What do you think? Thank you in advance.
Hi, I think for the cost of going to the service center (unless they will do it for free), it is better to invest in something like the motivx cap wrench and have the right tools to break loose the overtightened oil filter housing. I worked on a Rav4 which has the same filter housing and it was overtightened like crazy. I'm glad to have had the proper fitting cap wrench. You can see how much effort it took to break loose here: ua-cam.com/video/OxDwBq2rjEo/v-deo.html
Do you have a 3rd gen 2014-2019 Toyota Highlander V6 (non-hybrid)? I just made a new DIY oil change guide for that. ua-cam.com/video/UTzHLUJJK_E/v-deo.html
Really quality video - best explanation of the process I’ve seen so far. Thanks for doing this!
My pleasure! I'm genuinely thrilled the first video I ever made is still helping people. Appreciate your support with your comment and likes.
Very good video. Only thing I recommend is putting the plastic panels on last after you filled it with oil. That way you can check for leaks and verify everything is good, and clean residue oil wth break clean, after everything is good then put the panels on. Also I never prime oil filters which is a whole different subject lol. Great video
Really good advice. Thank you for that and also for watching and commenting!
Thank you!
Got my 2021 oil changed with this tutorial.
The bolts and housing were much tighter than described. The previous service mechanic must have tighten it very hard.
Same for me. I actually broke my ratchet and needed a breaker bar.
I'm really glad my video helped! I'm not surprised the housing was over-tightened. Something is going on with the housing, maybe not just bad techs but like the way the plastic housing handles heat cycles.
Hopefully you were able to get your ratchet replaced. Definitely been there myself needing a breaker bar!
I viewed several descriptions Metaloop's description is the best so far 5 thumbs up.
I appreciate the generous comment. One of my goals when I started was to provide complete info and seeing a lot of videos that didn't have it. I'm working on a 2017 Highlander video now. It's basically the same steps but it'll be newer and higher quality. I hope you'll consider subscribing to catch that when I upload it. Thanks again for watching and commenting! www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
Beware that SOME dealers over-torque the oil filter housing. I had to use a 2 foot breaker bar to remove it three times with different cars and once broke the aluminum housing socket. (I had the SoCal dealer that last changed it give me a free oil change and replace the broken tool. )
Also keep the oil fill cap and dip stick closed if the engine is very warm. With hot 0-30 viscosity it comes gushing out when you pull the plug, keeping it closed up top will give more control on where it goes.
I've been noticing the same now that I've filmed a couple different oil changes. The other thing I'm curious about is if something is happening to the plastic housing as it heat cycles. That might make it seize up too. Really great tip on keeping things closed off of the engine is too warm too. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
I usually have to use a breaker bar on these types of filters even when trying not to over-torque.
Dealers hire inexperienced employees for oil change.
Love this video and I watch it twice a year before I change my oil! Thanks!
I'll only admit it here, but I have also rewatched my video to make sure I do it right. 😂 Also my description has all the specs listed, so you can also just get what you need without watching. Thanks again for the comment!
Great video. One suggestion: Put about 5 quarts into car, back it off ramps and onto a LEVEL surface, check oil level then and fill to full mark.
Yes, great callout. It was poor sequencing as it was my first time filming, but I did check the dipstick again after coming off ramps.
No problem man. We appreciate you.
Check for leaks before you finish, also torques are important! Don’t be in a rush friend!
Hi rk, appreciate the comment! I realize I never listed the torque specs in the description, but I did mention in the video the drain bolt should be 30 ft-lbs. I'm not sure what the torque specs are for the housing and the housing drain bolt. I'm going to guess like 15 and 10 ft-lbs. If you know, please do share. I would be glad to add it to the description.
Checking for leaks before finishing is a good tip as well. I'll be sure to mention that in future videos. My goal is to do basic maintenance videos for lots of different cars. I hope you'll consider subscribing and keeping me honest in future videos too. Thank you again for taking the time and watching my video! www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
Thanks for the video, but you should mention the car should be level when checking the oil not on the ramps.
Appreciate the comment, Zombie. Definitely a learning from this being one of my first videos. I do mention it in the description but your comment is worth pinning for future watchers. Now your comment can help tell folks the right thing to do. Thanks again for calling it out and I hope you consider subscribing for more videos like this! www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
Shouldn’t you start the engine and run for a bit, then check the level after it sits on level ground? That way you know the filter is fully charged with oil. Just suggesting.
Yes, great suggestion and I would agree that is best practice. It would have been safer to underfill from the manual's oil amount, level/start the car and check the oil before topping off. I put a little too much faith in priming the filter and filling to spec. Thank you for the advice!
@@mldiy - here’s what I do on my HL. Old Tropicana juice jug marked with a Sharpy the extra amount over the 5 quarts. Keep that jug as part of oil change kit. Put in the 5 quarts fill jug to that line empty it all. Never even measure anything. 😀
@@condor5635 I love it, great suggestion! And this way I know the car is getting its Vitamin C as well. 😂Thanks so much for taking the time to share your knowledge in a comment.
I loosen the plug nut a few turns short of off and put a zip tie over the nut and spin it off with the extended end. Usually the plug will stay on the zip tie and not fall in the oil and oil stays off your hand.
This is definitely one I haven't heard before. Thanks for sharing!
I don’t plan on replacing my own oil but it’s good to know how it’s done
Thank you for the comment! Yes, one of my goals was just providing more information for folks to make a decision on if they wanted to try doing it themselves, or at least confirm their mechanic is someone they can trust. Either way, I'm really glad to have helped, thanks again.
Thanks for doing this videoI have the exact same SUV. Brought it to dealer for a 1k break in oil change. Felt like such a hassle, I am going to do it myself next time. Watching this video gives me the confidence to do it. Will you be doing more highlander maintenance videos in the future?
RTS, so glad to hear the video inspired you to DIY next time. The maintenance package that comes with the car (assuming you bought it new from the dealer) only has oil changes at 10K (or 12 months) and 20K (24 months). If you don't drive that much, e.g. you'll only be at 7K miles at 12 months, just let the dealer do it since it'll be free and technically a use it or lose it schedule with the complimentary Toyota Care. If you drive more city miles than highway, it's worth sticking to a 5,000 miles or every 6 month oil change. I'll be doing another self oil change before I hit my 10K/12 month free service. (Also, I didn't call it out in the video, but Costco brand 0w-20 synthetic oil is perfectly fine for the Highlander and make each self oil change that much cheaper. It's basically like $4 a quart when you buy the 5qt bottles. That's roughly $30 in parts for oil, oem filter, gasket)
I definitely plan on doing more maintenance videos for the Highlander but these cars are just so darn reliable. Let me know if there's any particular maintenance you're interested in. And do me a favor? I'm trying to reach 100 subscribers because UA-cam unlocks more features for content creators at that milestone. Your subscription would help me get there before the new year. It's the best way to be notified when the next Highlander video drops too! I really appreciate that you took the time to comment. Thank you! www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
@@mldiy
How about ATF oil change? And New Highlander doesn’t have stick level ATF
@@viktorbondar4174 Request received and I'll add it to my list! And yea, generally newer cars don't have a transmission dipstick anymore. One would check fluid levels with the overfill hole and that's how you'd fill it as well. How many miles does your Highlander have? I would say you don't have to do this for 50 or 60K miles, btw.
I usually run the engine to check for leaks before putting the under panel back on. Back the car onto the level then check the dipstick.
You're absolutely right. This was my first video and while I did check the oil again level, I didn't film it and should have done better to mention that. That said, my latest videos all properly do what you say. I usually fill to like 80%, get the car level, check the dipstick and fill the rest of the way to ensure the car is properly topped off. Thanks for taking the time to watch the video and to comment!
thank you for posting this - I really appreciate it!
I'm so glad you found it and it helped you! Thanks for the comment too.
Toyota overall makes a quality product, but thier maintenance recommendations are designed to make sure if followed major components (engine & drive train) will be sure to outlast the factory warranty, probably any extended warranty, and your 72 month loan.
After that they would like to see you back at the dealership buying a new vehicle. :)
I saved $ for a long time to pay for a new Toyota without a loan. I did the 1k change, now it's every 6 months or 5K miles whichever comes 1st.
JAS, 100% agree. It's easier to give a complimentary 25K ToyotaCare package if it only has 2 oil changes include instead of 5!
Great info! I do this to my 2022 Highlander. Also, reset Maintenance data, rotate tires every 5k miles. Would like to report Carfax data that oil changed was performed only dealers reports that oil changed.
Great comment and callout items. For me, I was trying to "hide" this break-in oil change since the car still has ToyotaCare. I intentionally didn't reset the oil reminder. I'll see about adding some info for that in the description or making a Short about it. Thanks again for the comment and hope you enjoyed the video!
"Typically the upper and lower marks on the dip-stick represents one quart of oil."
That may have been true at one time or it may be true for some makes but NOT for modern Toyotas.
There is 1.6 quarts difference on our 2009 four cylinder. It wouldn't surprise me if there was 1.8 quarts difference between the two marks on your V6 engine.
The lower mark represents the safe minimum oil lever and the upper mark represents the safe maximum.
Thank you for your comment. I did see in the manual a note that the dipstick with reference to 1.6/1.8 quarts. It was written a little confusing so I went with 1 quart so people didn't accidentally overfill. I'm pinning your comment so people can see your post.
@@mldiy
I saw a couple typos in my comment. I tried to edit it but that's not working. Anyway you video is one of the better ones. 👍
Intersting did they stop making the other filters im so use to seeing? I believe it like a spin on type of thing.
The Highlander both last generation and this generation has used the cartridge style filter, same with the RAV4. But the Prius, Camry and I think Corolla all still use spin-on style filters. So it's split like 50/50 from what I've seen. Appreciate you taking the time to comment!
I purchased a Baxter Performance, cartridge to spin on, oil filter adapter, I use spin on oil filters for my 2007 GS 350 with the V6 engine
Roger, really appreciate you sharing. I didn't know an adapter like this existed. Genuinely asking though, what's the benefit to this other than opportunistically upgrading the OEM filter housing if/when it cracks? The OEM oil filters cartridges are like $5 at the dealer, so it seems like it's not for saving money. Appreciate you taking the time to watch my video and comment!
@@mldiy I like it for the convenience, also the spin on filters may secure the paper filter cartridge better with the metal plate holding the paper element a bit more securely.. The spin-ons have the relief valve built in. I am used to the spin on filters. The cartridge filters must be of equal quality, those Toyota engines last 300,000 or more!!!! The adapters are a bit expensive as you saw, mine was $254.00 or so, but they are high quality. Baxter is making them for other makes and models also, they started with Toyota I believe. Goo luck with your future videos.
@@mldiy I will also add, I just saw the past few days on You-Tube where some people had to use impact wrenches, in one case a large breaker bar, to remove the Toyota filter housing. I was not aware of that, it makes you wonder if these quick lube garages even change the oil filters. They should not be that tight after one oil change cycle, unless they are tightening them down too much.
@@rogermignone9850 I just had a helluva time removing the oil filter housing on a Rav4 which has the same housing and filter (Toyota definitely so smart using the same parts on all their engines, though). I have a feeling the lube tech did exactly what you said. I really appreciate the follow up post about why you chose the adapter too. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!
@@mldiy Ok, no problem. Thanks for the videos.
Excellent video quality and great explanation. Thanks!
I'm glad you liked it! Thank you for taking the time to comment and I'll home you consider subscribing to help me hit 1000 subs, a number UA-cam cares about to verify content creators like me. Thanks again!
On my 2011 Toyota Camry I switched to a cast aluminum oil filter housing . It is one that comes with a Toyota SUV from the factory now . And I made sure to lube all around [ inside ] the two O-Rings with fresh new oil or a silicone spray lube , etc . As someone's experience was that when installing the oil filter housing . One O-Ring got pinched and started leaking . And though some have not replaced the bottom O-Ring regularly , why not !? It come with the filter , use it . And from experience , at the store , if possible open the box to see if both O-Rings are there . I had bought a filter and missing one of them .
Peter, thanks for bringing the cast aluminum oil filter housing to my attention, I didn't know that existed and seems like a great upgrade. I'll see how the housing on the highlander holds up over time. Good advice all around for the o-rings too. For the dealer OEM filter, the o-rings come in one plastic package, so hopefully they always have both. I know some aftermarket filters don't come with the disposable housing drain attachment or the smaller o-ring. I think it's suppose to be a cost savings. Not sure why one would go aftermarket when the OEM filters cost $4.95 from the dealer (that is what I paid). Let me know if you have any other DIY maintenance or fixes you'd like to see on the Highlander, I appreciate your suggestions and hope you'll come back to see those videos by clicking on this one-click subscribe link: www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1 Thank you so much for watching the video and taking the time to comment.
great video. Ive been letting toyota do it since they were free for a while. I hate all these extra panels they add to the undercarriage.
I just did my last free ToyotaCare oil change as well on the Highlander! I used wanting to do an extra engine "break in" oil change as an excuse to film this, which was my video ever video on UA-cam. Thank you for the comment and let me know if there's other Highlander DIY content you'd like to see in the future.
Awesome 😮 video, very helpful, brother.
I’m curious what the difference is with the hybrids if any. 23’ hybrid specifically. Thanks for the video. Also thanks to the other commenters who mentioned checking for leaks. 👍
Hi Jovaz, unfortunately for the 4th gen they switched engines. The third gen was the same V6 with a hybrid. I believe your 23 uses the YZZN1 spin on filter and will have a different oil capacity. Definitely double check. The only thing my video will help with is how to remove the underbody panel. Hope this helps.
Great video, really well done. I noticed a couple of things I would suggest, but they have already been addressed in the comments. Overall this is still really one of the best videos I've seen.
I looked up the oil filter wrench you used and I plan to purchase it, it does state on Amazon that it does not fit a 2021 Highlander, but I'm assuming because it shows a 0.3 difference in the measurement. But if it worked for your 22, I imagine it's going to work for my 21.
Hi Dave, sorry for the delayed response over the long weekend. I would be really surprised if the Motivx cap wrench doesn't fit your 2021--if you have the 3.5L V6. I'm highly confident it's the same engine and filter housing. All of the previous gen Highlanders also have the same housing (and I made a video for the 3rd gen Highlander as well!). The cap wrench even works well for Toyota's spin-on filters. I've used it on a couple vehicles to great success. Hopefully I responded to you before you tackled the oil change. Please do let me know how it goes, I love hearing the success stories. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.
Thanks for the reply! I had to do some traveling so I couldn't get to the oil change until today. The tool fit perfectly and worked really well. The housing was really on there, so I'm assuming the guys from the dealership may have over tightened it a bit. I had to get a breaker bar and very gently break it loose before I could use my regular ratchet.
Everything went smoothly and it's running well. This is my first Toyota, the closest thing I've had to this in terms of oil changes is a Mazda 3. Again, great video and overview!
My neighbors 2018 camry se v6 had a 0w-16 sticker on the dash board under the hood. After he got it changed at priority toyota they put a 5w-20 sticker there in place. I would rather have the protection of a thicker oil and maybe castrol edge 5w-20 in the winter and maybe 5w-30 in the summer
That's really interesting to hear. I'm going to see if there's any TSBs recommending a heavier weight, especially if a dealership updated the sticker. Thanks so much for sharing and I hope you enjoyed the video!
Nicely done. Thanks.
I really appreciate the comment! Thanks for taking the time to watch.
Thank you. Very helpful.
I'm glad that it helped you. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I have a 2021 XSE. There is no felt mat in the way to remove.
Rob, that's good to know. Thanks for sharing and taking the time to comment!
Hi there, great video. What you call that filter cap removal tool and where can I buy one?
Hi, link is in the description but it's a little buried, here it is again. Thanks for watching and commenting! amzn.to/3I81zbO
Where did u get the tool to take off the filter sir??
Great video
Hi, everything is linked in the description (it is the 64mm oil wrench). The description also has all the other tools, torque specs and capacities all organized and easy to reference, so definitely check it out! Thanks for the question and good luck with your DIY.
Very helpful. Thanks for your sharing
I'm glad it was helpful! I appreciate you taking the time to comment and if you haven't already, every like and subscribe greatly helps me out, thank you. www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
This was helpful. Thanks!
You are very welcome, thanks so much for watching, commenting and subscribing (and if you didn't, that's okay too). 🙏
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This is Wonderfull thanks for share this info and for sharing your knowledge with us... Thanks
My pleasure! Comments like yours motivate me to make more videos. If there are other videos you're looking for, please do share your suggestions. And if you haven't already, subscribing will make sure you see future videos and really helps tell UA-cam that I'm making content you want to see. Here's a link to subscribe in one click: www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1 Thank you so much for watching the video and leaving a comment.
Why didn’t he use the oil filter wrench to tighten the housing?
Hi, the housing torque spec is only 18 ft-lbs which is easy to achieve by hand. If you're using a torque wrench, you can use the filter cap wrench with it, but my goal was to show that it doesn't need to be that tight. I also end up tightening it slightly more when I put on the housing plug, which is only 10 ft-lbs. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
The dealer must have used a impact wrench. My drain plug needed a breaker bar and the filter plug housing I couldn't get off. Also when I was taking the protecting shroud off bolts came down..the dealership oil idiot for got to pit them back on. The dealership was called and the service manager never called me back.
.
Anthony, ug, so sorry to hear. Did you ever get the filter housing plug off? Short of a vice to hold the housing down while I took off the plug, I'm not sure how I'd do it. Maybe if you have an old school filter wrench, you could try that in one hand holding the housing in place and a square drive in the other. Good luck with that and reply if you want more help brainstorming a solution. It's definitely one of the reasons I wanted to make videos like this, to be able to show that it's not that hard to DIY. If you don't mind a couple clicks, subscribing really helps me out as a new content creator. Thank you for leaving a comment. I really appreciate you. www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
Not uncommon at all
@@mldiy
No maybe the next change
What about the dash reseting maintenance code or does it reset automatically??
Hi, it doesn't reset automatically. It's actually really easy to do. Hit the start button without your foot on the brake to get the dash on (key-on engine-off in car speak). Using the arrow keys on the left side of the steering wheel, hit the down/up keys to select the gear icon on the screen in the middle of your dash and hit OK. Then hit the right/left keys to get to the car with the gear on it. In that menu, go all the way down until you see "Scheduled Maintenance", then hit OK and it will prompt you with a yes/no choice to reset the data. Best of luck, thanks for watching.
Is that a designated location of where you're supposed to place the jack stands? I'm looking to start doing my own oil changes but want to have a fail safe in case something happens with the ramps.
Hi, great question. My order of preference is 1) pinchweld but the ramp is in the way of it, or 2) sub-frame which is what I used in the video and option 3) is bottom the suspension, which on some cars is at the bottom of the strut and some cars a knuckle/bushing point on the control arm. Option 3 loads the suspension so isn't great if you are trying to do suspension work, and the suspension connects to the subframe, so the subframe is used to holding the weight of the whole car. And of course the pinchweld is what the engineers built into the car so it can be serviced. Hope this was helpful and good luck with your oil change! Thanks for watching.
How much did it cost and how much do you think we can saved if DIY? Thanks in advance.
Hi Ian, if you have tools, even basic ones, then the saving is the parts you guys, so in this case, oil and filter. All the parts (and tools) you need, I have recommendations in the description of the video too, so you can decide yourself if it is worth it. If you don't have tools, then the savings is longer term because that first DIY oil change will cost more than going to a shop, but every one after will be cheaper. Generally though, if you are just calculating dollars, your time is valuable and needs to be taken into consideration. I would say the main reason I learned to DIY and wanted to share is I find genuine joy and satisfaction in doing it myself. It gives me a reason to look under the hood and poke around. It makes me appreciate my vehicle that much more. I hope this helps and you'll consider subscribing to help out the channel. Thank you. Clicking here subscribes for you: www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
@@mldiy appreciate your response.
@@Boba_crumbs don’t buy your oil at the dealer like this guy. Go buy Kirkland synthetic it’s like $30 for 10 quarts. Buying your oil at the dealers is a rip off.
Can someone clarify what it means by “with filter” and “without filter” in the manual when it describes how much oil to use? Thanks
Hi Santini, yes I can explain. The "without filter" amount is if for some reason you were to change their oil without replacing the filter, then you would only need 5.6 qt of oil because the filter housing would still have about .2 qt of oil in it. You'll see in my video that I primed the oil filter by pouring some oil into it. I had to keep track of that to make sure I didn't exceed 5.8 qt of oil (the "with filter" amount). I hope this helps. If so, you subscribing to the channel really helps me out. 100 subscribers is a milestone for new content creators and unlocks additional functions for me. I appreciate the consideration! www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
Good to know, thanks for the info. 👍
Thanks for this video. Big help.
You're welcome!
Great video!!! Regarding maintenance services, my average miles per 6 month is 2k to 3k miles, knowing this my questions is: it is better to wait 5kmiles or do it every 6 months? Thank you
Hi and great question. It depends on how you're driving. If you're doing a lot of short trips in town with stop and go traffic, I would change every 6 months. If you're doing mostly highway miles, you can probably wait a full year (or change at 5k miles). And keep in mind that 6 months/5k miles is still half of Toyota's 10k or 1 year recommendation for full synthetic, so you are well ahead of the general car owner just for asking the question! Thanks and I hope you'll consider subscribing, it really helps tell UA-cam that my content is worth watching. Much appreciated! www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
If I pull oil out that clean it's going into my truck as add oil one quart at a time. If it's 0-20 I will alternate with a 10-30.
Hi Don, appreciate the comment! The oil was arguably pretty clean. All I saw in the filter element was some stuff that just looked like lint, nothing really suggesting metal. I'm so used to older cars that needed a break-in oil change and I do recall seeing little metal bits back in the day. In hindsight, I should have sent the oil off for analysis to confirm if such an early oil change was even needed. When you mention 10-30, are you meaning to mix the weights? My understanding was that oil weights should never be mixed. Also the Highlander's manual only mentioned 5w-20 as an alternate and only in a pinch. That suggests higher viscosity might do more harm than good. Thanks so much for taking the time to watch my video.
@@mldiy Even into the 2000s some Motorcycles were prone to poor cleanout of machining dust from the cases. I did one at 600 miles that was so sparkly I did it again at 1500 miles, where it was whistle clean.
Good video. You don't need to prime filter. Girls wear gloves.
Thanks for the comment! Agreed on the priming I have gone either way especially for topside filters in Subarus and Audis, but for the other point, I'll trust the views of folks like @HumbleMechanic way more than you though 😂 ua-cam.com/video/YhJIcsMaa9k/v-deo.html
Magnetic Oil Drain Plug Remover Tool will help
So crazy, I just saw a Craftsman version at Lowes today, it was on clearance sale. I almost bought it but couldn't justify it over fingers. Maybe if I was a lube tech and had to turn around oil changes in 30 minutes underneath hot engines. Do you have one and do you like it? It's not too late for me to go back to Lowes! I appreciate you taking the time to comment, thank you.
@@mldiy I do and use it for my truck and the Highlander. It’s pretty nice and I think was worth the $7 I paid at the time.
@@brewdogjd You convinced me, will be picking one up today. Again, I appreciate you taking the time to reply. Also hey, just coincidentally, right now you could be my 100th subscriber. If you liked this video, I hope you will consider clicking here :) www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1 Thanks again for the recommendation!
If you remove the old filter after draining the filter housing why not fore go draining the old oil since you filled the new filter with new oil before reassembly
Hi dcb, thanks for the question! If you don't drain the housing and try to remove it, oil leaks out as you unscrew it. I'm not sure it's worth keeping the old oil even if that didn't happen. The oil capacity quoted in the manual--for most cars--usually includes the oil needed to re-soak a new filter with oil, so the old oil just throws off the measurement of you keep it.
That all said, since I filmed this video, I don't even pre-fill filters anymore. It's easier and more consistent to just let the car circulate the oil on first startup after the change.
I hope this answers your question, thanks and please consider subscribing to help out the channel. 🙏
Nice 👍
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for taking the time to comment and subscribe (totally okay if you didn't)
Nice Jack stands, where did you get them? Those Rhino Ramps too?
Hey vb2k3, the jackstands and ramps are both from harbor freight, links here:
www.harborfreight.com/13000-lb-gvwr-capacity-portable-vehicle-ramp-set-63956.html
www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-aluminum-jack-stands-91760.html
Very informative video ! btw how much did you paid for the oil ?
Hi Ahmed, it's like $40 for six quarts at the dealership. The Costco Kirkland brand full synthetic 0w-20 is an option too. It just has to be ILSAC GF-6A rated and the Kirkland brand is. That takes it down to $4 per quart, but you have to buy in bulk. I appreciate the comment and hope to see you post again on future videos!
I've been buying cars for 50 yrs and have never had a good experience with a service department at a dealership, so learn how to do routine service or find a good repair shop that's been recommended by a trusted friend. You will have less trouble and save money.
Andre, I appreciate the comment! One of the goals of my channel is to show people that car maintenance and repairs aren't that hard. It's great if someone can DIY after watching a video like this, but I would find it equally rewarding if a viewer just had more confidence to navigate a conversation with a service rep and ensure they got what they asked for. I hope you'll stick around and share your wisdom on future videos, you can subscribe with one click here: www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1 Thank you so much for taking the time to watch my video.
Just go with 5k miles and not following Toyota 10k like he says engine is expensive.
Run quality full synthetic filter and oil, change at 8,000 miles
Man but toyota told me I have to do an oil change after 16000 Kms should I follow the maintenance schedule that toyota gave me??
@jondotcom nah fam I'm good bro should I do my own oil change or service my car some other place even though my car is on warranty would that VOID the warranty??
Yep! Every 5000 miles I told the guy that I’m buying the car not leasing but the guy said that’s what the Toyota recommended 😢my Cross still under warranty and told me 10 thousand for 30 thousand oil change and after that 5 thousand wt coz they know my warranty last 30 thousand
Hi
If this the same for 2023 highlander
Hi Rong, unfortunately the 2023 Highlander switched to a Turbo 4-cylinder instead of the V6. Be careful on UA-cam, there are some videos claiming their v6 oil change will work on 2023 but they are just trying to get search results. That said, the process to remove the under body panel and the location of the drain bolt and oil filter are very similar. The 4-cylinder uses a different amount of oil and a different filter. I don't know the specs off hand, but I believe it's the same engine as the 2022 NX350, so you can look for an oil change guide for that car. Or if you're in the bay area SF, I'm happy to help.
I took my highlander to two dealerships they say it don`t need an oil change before 10k miles. I dont know if a mom n pop will know all these steps to change oil on modern SUV s .
Did you buy the car new? If so, Toyota does free maintenance on the car for the first 25,000 miles. Because it is free, they will not want to change your oil until the recommended interval. If you don't have the free maintenance, it really depends on how you drive your Highlander. If you do a lot of highway miles, every 10k miles / 1 year is totally reasonable. If you do a lot of short drives in stop and go traffic, it's considered heavy duty and even Toyota recommends changing oil at 5k/6 months. The official Toyota service schedule specifically mentions this. Any mom and pop shop would be able to do this oil change, no worries there. But the way I see it, is if you can learn to do your own oil changes, since it will be less than half the cost of going to a shop, you can do twice as many oil changes and not feel guilty about it! Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@mldiy i bought it used at 41k miles with no warranty .
I have the dealer's extended warranty with oil changes but I take it at the 10,000-mile mark only since at the 5000 they don't change the oil so I change it at 5000 and let them change it at 10,000 so I get my money's worth too! 😅
I'm due for my first ToyotaCare (10K) Oil change soon! I get that engine technology and oil are better these days, but still paranoid enough to want 5K oil changes. Totally agree!
lol
The question is how much are you saving doing it yourself compared to dealerships?!?!
Hi Kevin, great question and I think the answer depends on how you view things. Receipt for receipt at the same dealership: $66.19 for oil and filter for the parts I used in the video. And $137.41 for an oil change service quoted. This is Bay Area California so ymmv. But don't forget I also bought tools like ramps, filter wrenches, a toolset, etc. So for me it's a commitment to change my own oil moving forward, otherwise, the cost of the tools makes a single oil change more expensive than the dealership. Additionally, I think I can do an oil change for $30 if I buy oil and filter outside of the dealership. Thanks for your comment and for watching this video, which was the first video I ever made for my channel!
Funny thing with me is the ease of oil changes is one of the biggest factors that determines my purchase. If I cannot reach the filter and drain plug within 7 seconds I won’t buy it. I hate having to pull off panels 😡
I totally hear you. Sometimes it feels like the slightly improved aerodynamics and road noise reduction is just an excuse to stop potential DIYers from working on their own cars. The funny part is on this Highlander, the drain plug is sort of accessible without removing the panel, but the filter is not. That said, it's not 7 seconds fast, but it's not that bad, maybe 97 seconds to remove two bolts and 4 plastic clips to reach the filter and drain plug. I'll time myself next time and report back.
Thank you for your comment. At 100 subscribers, UA-cam actually unlocks more functions for new creators like me. I'm only a handful away. I'd appreciate your consideration in helping me get there, thank you! www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
Well you will have a limited purchase range then. Good luck with that approach. 😊
Very tempted to leave the panel off and toss it next oil change.
@@condor5635 that’s not true at all. The majority of cars sold in America you can easily access both. Not sure why you think otherwise
Tip? Fumoto valve
Yes! Those are cool. For me the time sink is in removing the underbody panel, so at that point dealing with a drain bolt isn't adding more time, relatively speaking. Awesome videos on your page too, I hope you do more. UA-cam is going to lower the requirements for ad revenue to 500 subscribers next year so a good time to ramp back up! I subscribed.
@ - I leave the panel off in my car. City driving so no danger of anything in my opinion and you can’t even tell. Done it for years
similar to the 09 highlander - not much changed.
Glad to hear! The 2nd generation Highlander is the only generation I haven't done an oil change guide on yet.
Engine oil must be hot when you change it.
Good call out, thanks for sharing. I'm personally a fan of the 5 min rule: warm up the car for about 5 minutes, mostly to circulate the oil and better suspend contaminants.
@@mldiy great video as I should have stated first.
@@sjc3081 Thank you! I just posted my 10th video and comments like yours keep me motivated to make more. If car repair how-to guides and tool unboxings are interesting to you, your support by subscribing would really help UA-cam understand my content is worth promoting. Clicking this link will subscribe you. I appreciate your time, thank you again. www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
@jondotcom8706 yeah, I need to warm up my 0W20 to get it to drain
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Jack stands with ramps? Really? Lol
You can never be too safe when working under the car so I want to promote that in my videos, but it's your life, you can do whatever you want. 👍
@@mldiy there’s no tension on the Jack stands. Literally just causing more of a problem than helping. Lol
@@shinigami117s8 Do you mind explaining? I have wheel chocks to prevent the car from rolling back, and I have jack stands in case the ramps collapse. They will catch the car before it crushes me. In this scenario I wouldn't care about what happened to the car. I only want a few precious seconds to roll out from under the car and go hug my kids.
Gloves on even before you open the hood…
Welcome fellow Highlander owner, appreciate you taking the time to comment! Yes, gloves before starting work. No regrets and no apologies for wanting to keep my hands clean. They are like ten cents a pair, no reason to be precious about when to wear them. I hope you'll stop by more often when I release future Highlander DIY videos. I'm sure I have a lot to learn from you. Thanks again.
After I changed oil filter and oil housing made from aluminium, my car won't start.
Hi Dang. I don't have enough information to help you, but I would guess your battery is weak and needs a jump or short recharge. You likely left a door open while you did everything and it drained the battery enough where the car doesn't crank, but all the dash lights are coming on.
The whole oil change thing is way overrated. Synthetic oil is good for far longer than we think. The tolerances on modern engines are very close. And the oil is very thin. Stop overthinking it people. As long as you change your oil twice a year you're good.
Yes, I would even suggest only once a year if you don't drive 5k miles in that timeframe. 👍
Thank you for your video, and I appreciate that. While I was trying to change the oil and filter, the housing of the filter was too~~ tight and in the middle of the 3/8 socket was almost broken, so I ended up to change just oil.
Maybe Toyota center overtightened those. I have 15k miles now, and the last service was done at 10k before, so I believe it should be ok until 20k. After that, I think I should come by a service center again asking them not to overtighten them.
What do you think? Thank you in advance.
Hi, I think for the cost of going to the service center (unless they will do it for free), it is better to invest in something like the motivx cap wrench and have the right tools to break loose the overtightened oil filter housing. I worked on a Rav4 which has the same filter housing and it was overtightened like crazy. I'm glad to have had the proper fitting cap wrench. You can see how much effort it took to break loose here: ua-cam.com/video/OxDwBq2rjEo/v-deo.html
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