Because being a mechanic isn't challenging enough, you actually hold a camera whilst actively troubleshooting and then speak your thoughts out loud and troubleshoot in a methodical, logical manner for the benefit of all to witness. Superb work!
I really enjoyed this video. This test had me to conclude that it was my wife's HVAC control that was going bad. After listening to the clutch engage five times and then getting a positive 6 volt signal from from the high low switch .We found out that the command signal from the HVAC climate control wasn't coming on. Very informative video thank you again.
Mr I was having the same problem ,did everything Luke you mentioned on video and it works,I have a OBS truck that ac will work and sometimes didn't work ,well the clutch will stop engaging so I took it to a ac mechanic and he was nice to me that he fix the problem in front of me,he took out the bolt out of clutch and pulled out little whaser and put back bolt and clutch kick in ,I until this day haven't had any problems with ac.i really appreciate you taking your time and showing your knowledge may God bless you always. 👍
2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL (3-9-24) Same exact issue You hit the nail on the head with this one sir , saved me time and money. Simple process of elimination, 🐀mechanic straight up lied to me said i had a compromised system and was going to need new compressor , dryer , & condenser. My ipdm was sending power clutch was not engaging sure enough discovered that burnt out connection.
Brother, I am just like you, my mechanic He also told me that the air conditioner compressor was broken and needed to be replaced, but he didn't check the connector at all.
Two years ago when I first watched your video I followed the instructions as you stated. Unfortunately, the original AC compressor on my Nissan was no longer good. I also did a test where I moved the entire clutch, but was unable to since it was seized. This new clutch I had lasted about two years or so, and went out again again I did the exact same thing, followed your steps and it turned out. I have the same issue with the connectors. I don’t have a replacement connector nor those that you used in the video, but I just cleaned them off and using a pic. I clamped down the connector on the female side and reconnected the cables and the clutch engaged again temporally using that for now until I go to the dealership. By the way, I just wanted to thank you for making this video very informative and helpful.👍😎 By the way 2015 Nissan Sentra SV.
Ill be checking all these things first time tomorrow morning. I didn't know how the door test worked. I checked on my fuses, nothing blown. Replaced one with a partial connection. Still no clutch engagement.
Awesome video! Quick question tho. When I run the self test I do hear the clutch engage 5 times. But when the car is running and I turn on the ac, the clutch never engages. The system is pressurized but I have no ac because the compressor never runs. What should I check next?
I just wanted to take the time out of my day to say thank you. This exact problem has happened to me just yesterday. I did the test like you did turns out that same connector was the issue. Thank you!
Thank you very much for your video. Super nice,here's my question, after run the IPDM test, clutch engaged,but dosen't work when turn the ac on, what could be the issue ? Thanks again.
I have been having the same issue on my fiancés 2015 Altima. Same exact symptoms and this helped out tremendously. Definitely buying a test light tomorrow and checking pins on the IPDM and on the a/c compressor. Such a great detailed video and very helpful
I was wondering why the connector would be bad if it was getting power. Than I realized you were testing the blue wire in the back of the connector and not the front metal contact. Having ac issue on 2014 pathfinder. Isolated it to the connector or compressor .
I wish I had more hands, I'd give this video 4 thumbs up. As soon as I saw that charred connector on yours I went straight to mine and found the same charred ground pin. Flawless troubleshooting on this video!
Thanks for the video ! My car os the same : 2014 nissan altima , to activate the test function was necessary to turn on , pull 10 times the door sensor, then turn off then turn on the car again then it will axtivate the function
Firestone told me I had a bad ac compressor so I replaced it myself, I have a Sentra with the 2.5 so it sucked! After vacuuming the system I started Adding freeon and the clutch still didn’t engage. So I’m right back to square 1. Thanks for your video I was able to run the diagnostic and the clutch & fans do engage. I’ll keep doing research until I find the problem 🙄
So there is a plug that is directly plugged on the clutch and then there is a plug about 3 or 4 inches from that one. The one 3 or 4 inches is the one you cut out and splice, basically getting rid of that smaller plug.
737mechanic that's what I have and it's difficult to reach. I did unplug the pigtail, and it looked fine, not burnt from arcing. However I couldn't reattach the plug to the other plug, will try again. May our Lord Jesus ,bless you and keep you.
This is very helpful but if the AC clutch was bad you would still not hear it and might think the wiring was bad. I had a bad clutch and there are videos on how to replace instead of the whole compressor.
If the compressor is running, feel the low side line under the hood and see if it is cold. If it is but the inside only blows warm then the blend door is not working right.
I want to thank you so much your video helped me fix my ac after I had already taken it to a shop to look ND fix it and they couldn't make it work. You were a blessing thanks again.
I have a 14 Altima new compressor started to fill system no clutch The clutch does cycle during the door button test, I have a feeling it’s the control valve circuitry not allowing the clutch to engage is that possible a d how do you diagnose the valve wiring I may try to jumper the wiring for the control valve but want to understand what’s upstream of that in the wiring
Great video. My ac clutch clicks with the ipdm test. Should my ac kick on even without pressure? Just bought the vehicle and there’s little/no pressure in the system. Thx
When you do the 10 door press test.....if there is no freon will the test still click the ac clutch 5 times? On my 2012 Altima, the AC was working great then for no reason, stopped blowing cold air, and the clutch does not engage when the car is running now. When I do the test I can hear the relay clicking by the power distribution box, but the ac magnetic clutch does not click. Thanks!!
The clutch should engage even if there was no freon. If you hear the relay clicking but the clutch is not engaging then you either have a bad connection from the IPDM to the clutch or you have a bad clutch.
If you are hearing the compressor click then more than likely the compressor is fine. You need to figure out why the compressor is not getting the signal to come on. It could be simply that it is low on refrigerant, a bad pressure switch, or something else.
It means the compressor is probably fine and the problem is something else. It could be the ambient temp sensor, evap sensor, pressure switch or something else.
@@chenwen-do8qz Something is shorted. It could be the plug. You need to start looking for a short by disconnecting the plug and replacing the fuse to see if it still blows. If the fuse doesn't blow with the connector disconnected then the clutch or plug is shorted.
I tried to test that the fuse would not blow while the connector was disconnected, and the female plug could be powered on, but the plastic inside the plug was a little loose and would swing up and down. I don’t know if this would have any effect. I used to have the clutch not operate. It worked as long as the connector was pressed, until recently it started not working at all
Thanks for the video. After watching i was able to figure out the clutch wasn't engaging on my 2016 Altima. I picked up a light tester at AZ for $8 and tested the power/ground wires at the clip going to the clutch and both seemed good. When I plugged the clip back into the harness the clutch started engaging again and the ac came on. 🤷♂️ I suspect the clutch is going out or the connector clip is.
@@737mechanic Ended up replacing the connection today. The clutch was working intermittently but seemed to fix whenever i unplugged and reconnected the connectors. After closer examination, the terminals looked burnt very similarly to yours. Replaced it with a $5 Dorman connector and so far no issues. I'll just have to wire the new connector to any new clutch/compressor i install in the future but no big deal. I will note that the black/red wire harness connected to the clutch did not have a clip to remove it from my compressor so it was alot a leaning over and difficult reaching to get it wired together but it was doable. 👍
I did but test and my clutch on the compressor did click 5 times What does that mean for me??? And the relay clicked 5 times as well Should I change the relay just to see or what should I do
I tried to use a inexpensive voltmeter to check the relay and the plug that comes from the compressor. Couldn't get a contact with wire in relay box or compressor plug with the meter probe. Could I jab a peice of electrical wire into the relay wire and plug wire to determine if I have power to both, using my voltmeter? Thank you again and may God bless you abundantly.
737mechanic I'm getting power to my compressor, a technician at Autozone told me that your clutch won't engage if the pressure on either on the high or low side isn't within specification. Is that correct?
awesome video. why of why didn't I view this prior to swapping the compressor, condenser, and expansion valve! btw 737 mech nice, retired 737 pilot here
0:20 how did you check the refrigerant? My IDM seems fine... the clutch that you describe at 2:45 seems to be engaging in my car during the test but it doesn't seem to engage when the engine is on to circulate freon in the system to get the cold air to blow. I'm not sure what is wrong with my car.
I didn't have to check the refrigerant, when I did the IPDM test and seen the clutch would not engage I went after that problem first. Once i repaired the bad wiring to get the clutch to work it cooled fine.
@@Dorizonohi, just wondering what you found? I replaced the AC control valve but the compressor is still not kicking on while running although the test worked.
hey I did my test on the IPDM and it works properly.. but it will not command it by pressing the AC inside. it does show that it's commanding the ac on via data on the scanner, but it shows off on BCM... a/c control box? it does have automatic a/c, is a SV model...thanks...
Hey so I ran the exact tests you did and my ac is blowing hot, Clucht isn’t engaging and blowing burning smell. Im woundering if I do this will the clutch start engaging and will that fix my ac issue?
thanks. raychem brand splices are awesome but expensive at 1$ per splice in 50 splice packs. without the heat gun reflector kit, you do better with a BIC 1000 but use the blue part of the flame or it will char.
Shudddd uppppppp! Stop 🛑 coming on another man's page, and telling him how to fix something he didn't ask for! It's a faux pas to do that on UA-cam. Wanna be like this man, and give advise on UA-cam LIKE HE DOES? MALE YOUR OWN UA-cam PAGE AND POST UNSOLICITED ADVISE ALLLLL DAYYYY LONGGGGG! And when a person comes along, that may or may not benefit from your video, they can take your unsolicited advise. But it is ethically RUDE, to get on ANOTHER MANS UA-cam CHANNEL, And let him know that the advise he gave war incorrect, or not valuable bc it's more expensive than you'd like. And even though you could mention this in YOUR video, it is EXCEPTIONALLY RUDE AS FK TOO DO WHAT YOU, just did. If you don't understand online adequacy, then take a class, watch a video, or just simply mind your own Godd dam business brother. With all that said, I hope you have learned something today about online behavior, and please understand, that anything I said or way I said it, was not meant to be mean, or make you feel bad about yourself, but to show you how stupid you sound and look doing it. Have a great day, and you can reply to this message if you are interested in joining a online class, taught by me, "How To", Go Fook Yourself, properly and effectively. Thanks and best wishes to you and your idiocy.
Because there are a few things that will prevent the compressor from coming on, this test will determine if the problem is downstream of the IPDM or upstream. If the compressor comes on with this test there is no reason to suspect the clutch or wiring from the IPDM is bad. Not to mention if the clutch comes on you didn't have to disconnect or even get a test light out.
So when I do test clutch does engage 5 times and with engine off I can freely spin clutch so that means clutch is good right ? I put the can with gage it is in the green shows charged however blows hot air
The clutch should be good if it engages 5 times during the test. If yours has a compressor control valve the valve could be bad, or it could be the pressure switch. If the compressor engages with the car running but it is not cold replace the control valve. If the compressor does not engage with the car running and it is fully charged with refrigerant check the pressure switch. Here is a video on replacing the control valve. ua-cam.com/video/q6TOfsDUL3o/v-deo.html And here is a video on replacing the drier which has the pressure switch on the top of it. ua-cam.com/video/zeZaXBm351E/v-deo.html
I did this EPDM test and my clutch is engaging, but the compressor still will not engage when car is running and AC is on. Some background: Checked the 10A AC fuze-good, replaced the compressor yesterday and air dryer. Just ran the EPDM test and clutch engaged 5 times, so not the relay or the wires. 2 years ago had the PS switch in the bottom of the compressor go bad, replaced that and been working fine for 2 years, but before I figured it out I replaced the expansion valve, condenser, and air dryer. i thought it went bad again, so replaced it again before I did the compressor change yesterday. Any help on where to go next. Could it be the switch on top of the air dryer or the expansion valve that has gone bad?
The expansion valve won't prevent the compressor from engaging but a bad pressure switch will. I would check the pressure switch that is on top of the dryer. Also, the ambient air temp sensor will also. If the sensor is faulty and sending a bad reading such as 38 degrees or lower to the computer the compressor will not engage.
@@737mechanic Thanks. I bought a new pressure switch. Will let you know how it turns out. Ambient air temp sensor readout on the instrument panel seems to be accurate, so don't think that is bad...at least from what it shows on the dash readout.
It was the pressure switch on top of the air dryer. Changed to today and now she's cooling like new again. Thanks for the sage advice. Wish I'd have started here...instead of ending here. Your advice is top knotch.
I see you know what your talking about about these altimas, I tried what you did on the video and my ac clutch did come on 5 times but still don't come on inside the car , I replaced everything from the relay box to the new bcm ,new climate control ,new ac pump , new condenser, new pressure release valves....I'm lost on why it's still not coming on any help I would appreciate it thanks
@@kevingard1074 Will probably need to have someone with a good scan tool hook up and see what the problem is. Could be something as simple as the switch itself and a scan tool will be able to see if the computer is seeing the switch as being on or off.
So I'm mechanically struggling so don't judge me. But im trying to figure this out. I do have my dad helping me and he knows a lot about cars but the electrical is so tricky. Number one let me just say thank you so much for this video because it did give us a lot of information. I took my car to an AC repair shop and they told me my compressor needed to be replaced so yesterday we replaced the compressor and a few other things. We did this test and found that the compressor clutch is getting power through the blue wire out of the IPDM and also getting power to the connector on the compressor. When we did the test the compressor was coming on. The issue is when the AC system is running, the compressor is still not turning on. Do you happen to know the circuit code or where I can find it. I guess we are going to have to backtrack all the way back down the circuit until we find the issue. We are replacing the pressure switch today. After that we are kind of stumped on a next step..
The pressure switch may fix your problem. If the compressor comes on with the IPDM self test then the two other likely causes are the pressure switch and not enough refrigerant in the system to activate the pressure switch.
Great video, I followed every step and the clutch is engaging but the ac qont turn on, anything else? The light just keeps flashing when I turn on ac. There's power all the way to the compressor and I visually verified that the clutch is engaging.
First, make sure the system is charged, and if it is and you have a compressor with a compressor control valve that is most likely your problem. They are a high failure item but are cheap and easy to replace. Make sure you discharge the system first before removing it. ua-cam.com/video/q6TOfsDUL3o/v-deo.html
How do you test the control valve? I replaced the CV and when diagnosed it send a signal to the AC compressor but the clutch does not engage idk if I'm pressure locked out or a bad control valve...I really appreciate this video a great job 10/10
The CV will not inhibit the clutch from engaging so if the clutch is not engaging you need to figure out if you have power at the compressor connector. If you do but the clutch is not engaging, then you have a bad clutch or possible bad ground.
Forgive my lack of knowledge here but can you explain how you reached the conclusion that the connector was bad just because it had power during the test? I thought youd want power going there? Excellent video, I'm about to run this test on my '13 Maxima.... So power being present at the connector means the connector is bad?
When I disconnected that connector and saw the burnt pins I figured at that point the connector was the problem but I needed to make sure power was making it to that connector and once I saw power was there I new those pins were not making connection because they had been burnt. If the pins had NOT been burnt my next step would still have been checking for power at both sides of that connector until I made it all the way to the clutch. If I had power and ground all the way to the last connector at the clutch then I would have replaced the clutch itself.
My tag lights won’t work, I tried changing the bulbs. Still won’t work, would the fuse be another option to check? If so where can I find the fuse for the lights
@@GrndDontStop You need to follow the wiring and see if you can find where it is connected. The first place to start is at the bulb socket itself. Sometimes you can wiggle the sockets and get them to flicker indicating the ground is bad. Most tag lights are not that weatherproof so they get wet and that causes problems.
I’m having an issue with a 2015 Altima. The AC isn’t working it is blowing hot air. We have replaced the expansion valve, the blend door actuator, and added Freon. The air still isn’t working. Initially, it was blowing hot air all the time. After changing the blend door actuator it finally turns off and on, but only blows hot air. I need help. It would be amazing if you were in San Antonio area to get in person help.
@@kvaladez85 Start the car and turn on the A/C, see if the compressor is kicking on and if it is see if the low side line(the bigger line) going into the car at the firewall is getting cold. If it is then you have blend door issues. If the compressor is on but the line isn't cold then you either have a bad compressor or control valve. If the compressor isn't coming on and you do have refrigerant in the system then the pressure switch could be the problem. I am in the Dallas area. Here is a video on replacing the control valve if your car has one. ua-cam.com/video/q6TOfsDUL3o/v-deo.html Here is a video on replacing the compressor if you have to do that. ua-cam.com/video/EbA3Cz2VeZM/v-deo.html
Thanks for the video! I performed the test and the clutch is not operating. I bought a new relay from Autozone but am having trouble locating where to replace it. Can you post the website where you got the relay schematic for this car? Is the MG clutch relay built into the IDPM? Or is it a changeable relay? Such as, one piece? Thanks.
My ac isn’t blowing hard but my blower motor and fan seem fine I bought a ac blower motor resister replacement could that be the problem? It’s cold ac but not blowing hard anymore even on full blast circulate mode
If your blower motor seems fine and goes from low to high but you don't have much blowing from the vents it may be a mode door not moving from one position to another.
Hey bud great information but im a bit on the dim side lol. my altima, the compressor clutch engages 5 times during the self test but when running normally it dont work. Can you give me a hint lol. id guess the comp control valve, expansion valve or the high and low pressure sensor. The self test passed all tests as far as i know, so it wouldnt be the ipdm or the plug you fixed on yours. im not the best with a multimeter, i guess its time i get better. you do great work and a great service!
The first step is to make sure it is full of refrigerant, The control valve and expansion valve will NOT prevent the compressor from coming on so those are not your problem. The pressure sensors will prevent it from coming on. I believe the ambient air temp sensor will also prevent it from coming on. You need to hook a scan tool up so you can see if there are any codes and look at the live data to see what the pressure sensors and temp sensor is reading.
Mine passed the test as for the clutch engaged 5 times . So should I replace the pigtail or check other things. When I did the idm test I didn't unplug anything and lights ,wipers fans ac clutch engaged 5 times. But no air and clutch doesn't engage when I turn it on in the car . Ac compressor fuse is good
My car is a 2013 Nissan Altima and has the same condition as yours the clutch in the compressor is not engaging... hope this information helps me save some money.. cause I have been told my compressor is not good any more..thanks 😊
@@737mechanic it is def turning.ouch to the finger ha. But the click to me doesnt sound to strong. And ive heard of the altimas being kind of famous for the compressor going bad
@@aaronwilhite1095 if it has the control valve that is what I would change first. You can get one for as little as 20.00 and they are a high failure item and people change compressors when all it is is the valve.
Hi brother I did the testings and all seems to be going well the clutch kicks in in the test..so does the fan also start..but..when I start the car neither one of them are coming on/ fan nor clutch... could it be the compressor control valve..? Thanks for your help.. God bless you
No because the compressor will be running even if the compressor control valve was bad. I would make sure it is charged up enough and I would suspect the pressure switch.
Ac was blowing strong cold air, then cool now warm. Had it checked again w new compressor/condenser replaced 2021, 22' another compressor almost a yr ago. Changed cabin filter helped but now this again. I feel they missed something or didn't chk everything or like u did. Help😢
Lol when I saw your splice tool and splices I was thinking…That’s aviation equipment, and then you confirmed saying automotive wire melts faster than aviation wire.
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Because being a mechanic isn't challenging enough, you actually hold a camera whilst actively troubleshooting and then speak your thoughts out loud and troubleshoot in a methodical, logical manner for the benefit of all to witness. Superb work!
And to top it off, sounds like he's got some allergies or something going on
@@barbarakdoty6843hahahaha fr tho😭
Head cam
I really enjoyed this video. This test had me to conclude that it was my wife's HVAC control that was going bad. After listening to the clutch engage five times and then getting a positive 6 volt signal from from the high low switch .We found out that the command signal from the HVAC climate control wasn't coming on. Very informative video thank you again.
How did you fix that?
Mr I was having the same problem ,did everything Luke you mentioned on video and it works,I have a OBS truck that ac will work and sometimes didn't work ,well the clutch will stop engaging so I took it to a ac mechanic and he was nice to me that he fix the problem in front of me,he took out the bolt out of clutch and pulled out little whaser and put back bolt and clutch kick in ,I until this day haven't had any problems with ac.i really appreciate you taking your time and showing your knowledge may God bless you always. 👍
2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL (3-9-24)
Same exact issue
You hit the nail on the head with this one sir , saved me time and money.
Simple process of elimination, 🐀mechanic straight up lied to me said i had a compromised system and was going to need new compressor , dryer , & condenser.
My ipdm was sending power clutch was not engaging sure enough discovered that burnt out connection.
Brother, I am just like you, my mechanic He also told me that the air conditioner compressor was broken and needed to be replaced, but he didn't check the connector at all.
Two years ago when I first watched your video I followed the instructions as you stated. Unfortunately, the original AC compressor on my Nissan was no longer good. I also did a test where I moved the entire clutch, but was unable to since it was seized. This new clutch I had lasted about two years or so, and went out again again I did the exact same thing, followed your steps and it turned out. I have the same issue with the connectors. I don’t have a replacement connector nor those that you used in the video, but I just cleaned them off and using a pic. I clamped down the connector on the female side and reconnected the cables and the clutch engaged again temporally using that for now until I go to the dealership. By the way, I just wanted to thank you for making this video very informative and helpful.👍😎
By the way 2015 Nissan Sentra SV.
Ill be checking all these things first time tomorrow morning. I didn't know how the door test worked. I checked on my fuses, nothing blown. Replaced one with a partial connection. Still no clutch engagement.
Awesome video! Quick question tho. When I run the self test I do hear the clutch engage 5 times. But when the car is running and I turn on the ac, the clutch never engages. The system is pressurized but I have no ac because the compressor never runs. What should I check next?
I would look at the temp sensor or low-pressure switch.
I cannot thank you enough for this AMAZING troubleshoot video. My 2013 ended up having the exact same issue.
I just wanted to take the time out of my day to say thank you. This exact problem has happened to me just yesterday. I did the test like you did turns out that same connector was the issue. Thank you!
Thank you very much for your video. Super nice,here's my question, after run the IPDM test, clutch engaged,but dosen't work when turn the ac on, what could be the issue ? Thanks again.
Could be low refrigerant, bad inside or outside temp sensor, low pressure switch.
I have been having the same issue on my fiancés 2015 Altima. Same exact symptoms and this helped out tremendously. Definitely buying a test light tomorrow and checking pins on the IPDM and on the a/c compressor. Such a great detailed video and very helpful
Did it work?
I have been scouring the internet for JUST THIS video! Thank you so much!
Hope your cold got better 😂
Great video ! That IPDM test is a great tip.
I was wondering why the connector would be bad if it was getting power. Than I realized you were testing the blue wire in the back of the connector and not the front metal contact. Having ac issue on 2014 pathfinder. Isolated it to the connector or compressor .
I wish I had more hands, I'd give this video 4 thumbs up. As soon as I saw that charred connector on yours I went straight to mine and found the same charred ground pin. Flawless troubleshooting on this video!
Thanks for the video !
My car os the same : 2014 nissan altima , to activate the test function was necessary to turn on , pull 10 times the door sensor, then turn off then turn on the car again then it will axtivate the function
Amazing how you broke it down and described it. Having the exact same issue
Firestone told me I had a bad ac compressor so I replaced it myself, I have a Sentra with the 2.5 so it sucked! After vacuuming the system I started Adding freeon and the clutch still didn’t engage. So I’m right back to square 1.
Thanks for your video I was able to run the diagnostic and the clutch & fans do engage. I’ll keep doing research until I find the problem 🙄
Did u ever find it?
Im confused about which pig tail to take off. It wasn't clear in your video. Everything else is so helpful and thank you very much
So there is a plug that is directly plugged on the clutch and then there is a plug about 3 or 4 inches from that one. The one 3 or 4 inches is the one you cut out and splice, basically getting rid of that smaller plug.
All cars may not have the plug at the clutch some have the wires directly connected .
737mechanic that's what I have and it's difficult to reach. I did unplug the pigtail, and it looked fine, not burnt from arcing. However I couldn't reattach the plug to the other plug, will try again. May our Lord Jesus ,bless you and keep you.
Great job! Experiencing similar issues with my pathfinder. I’ll use your diagnostic method to troubleshoot and hopefully fix my problem.
Thank you.
This is very helpful but if the AC clutch was bad you would still not hear it and might think the wiring was bad. I had a bad clutch and there are videos on how to replace instead of the whole compressor.
Seems like a common Nissan problem.
I’m having this issue now but I’m sure this video will help.
Thank you!!
I just wanted to thank you very much very professional skills and educational crystal clear pinpoint
that's exactly the test im trying to do on a 2013 maxima, just come home to print diagrams and in mid time i found you video.
Did the test work on the maxima?
Thank you very much for this video. I knew mine was in the wiring but you helped me pin point the problem. Excellent video!!!
Thanks for that detailed diag. Now I’m going to apply that same technique to my 2015 Altima 2.5l with the same concern.
If everything came on but still blowing hot what could it be ?
If the compressor is running, feel the low side line under the hood and see if it is cold. If it is but the inside only blows warm then the blend door is not working right.
I want to thank you so much your video helped me fix my ac after I had already taken it to a shop to look ND fix it and they couldn't make it work. You were a blessing thanks again.
Thank you for the kind words.
Thank you for taking the time to make this very informative video. God Bless you.
I have a 14 Altima new compressor started to fill system no clutch
The clutch does cycle during the door button test, I have a feeling it’s the control valve circuitry not allowing the clutch to engage is that possible a d how do you diagnose the valve wiring
I may try to jumper the wiring for the control valve but want to understand what’s upstream of that in the wiring
email me and I will send you some diagrams.
mechanic737@hotmail.com
Great video. My ac clutch clicks with the ipdm test. Should my ac kick on even without pressure? Just bought the vehicle and there’s little/no pressure in the system. Thx
No, if there is not enough pressure the pressure switch will prevent the compressor clutch from engaging to protect the compressor.
@@737mechanic Thank you charging now
Big Thanks for putting this info out. Saved me a lot of hassle.
Thanks man, can confirm this is common and was the fix I needed! #2023
Your a life saver man great job im fixing my a/c tomorrow. Thank you 👍
Would that test work on a 2020 Nissan kick?
It might, Nissan has it on many year makes and models but at a certain year they stopped offering that self-test but I am not sure what year exactly.
@@737mechanic thanks 🙏
When you do the 10 door press test.....if there is no freon will the test still click the ac clutch 5 times?
On my 2012 Altima, the AC was working great then for no reason, stopped blowing cold air, and the clutch does not engage when the car is running now.
When I do the test I can hear the relay clicking by the power distribution box, but the ac magnetic clutch does not click.
Thanks!!
I'm 100% sure the system is charged. It always blew cold air, right up to one random day. Fuse tests good.
The clutch should engage even if there was no freon. If you hear the relay clicking but the clutch is not engaging then you either have a bad connection from the IPDM to the clutch or you have a bad clutch.
@@737mechanic thank you so much for the reply! I will use my test lamp later today to see if 12V is making it to the clutch connector.
I hear 5 clicks on the compressor, but do not starts. Do you think it is a bad compressor?
If you are hearing the compressor click then more than likely the compressor is fine. You need to figure out why the compressor is not getting the signal to come on. It could be simply that it is low on refrigerant, a bad pressure switch, or something else.
Thank you for the help.
Thank you so much for putting this video together! I have a 2014 Altima that had the same exact problem and this fixed it!
So u just changed the connector? My ac went out today on my 14 altima
I replaced my entire AC system, unit everything even the ICM. Compressor still does not want to engage.
Does it engage when you do the self test?
Thanks for this. I had the same exact problem. Working great now.
Did you also solder them directly in the the pigtail like the video?
What happens if the compressor clicks 5 times in the test but the ac still don’t work with Freon in it?
It means the compressor is probably fine and the problem is something else. It could be the ambient temp sensor, evap sensor, pressure switch or something else.
Is the clutch plug also replaced?
No.
Thank you bro, I will repalce it myself too
Master, my air conditioner fuse is burned out. Is it possible that the plug has poor conductivity?
@@chenwen-do8qz Something is shorted. It could be the plug. You need to start looking for a short by disconnecting the plug and replacing the fuse to see if it still blows. If the fuse doesn't blow with the connector disconnected then the clutch or plug is shorted.
I tried to test that the fuse would not blow while the connector was disconnected, and the female plug could be powered on, but the plastic inside the plug was a little loose and would swing up and down. I don’t know if this would have any effect. I used to have the clutch not operate. It worked as long as the connector was pressed, until recently it started not working at all
Thanks for the video. After watching i was able to figure out the clutch wasn't engaging on my 2016 Altima. I picked up a light tester at AZ for $8 and tested the power/ground wires at the clip going to the clutch and both seemed good. When I plugged the clip back into the harness the clutch started engaging again and the ac came on. 🤷♂️ I suspect the clutch is going out or the connector clip is.
Probably bad connection.
@@737mechanic Ended up replacing the connection today. The clutch was working intermittently but seemed to fix whenever i unplugged and reconnected the connectors. After closer examination, the terminals looked burnt very similarly to yours. Replaced it with a $5 Dorman connector and so far no issues. I'll just have to wire the new connector to any new clutch/compressor i install in the future but no big deal. I will note that the black/red wire harness connected to the clutch did not have a clip to remove it from my compressor so it was alot a leaning over and difficult reaching to get it wired together but it was doable. 👍
I'm having same issues on my Nissan 2016! What's your recommendation bro
Do you have a link for the control valve connector? I can’t seem to find one for my 2013 Nissan Altima SV
What if the clutch did go In and out 5 times but when car is started and turns a/c on it won’t engage?
This could mean the refrigerant is low, the pressure switch is bad, the outside air temp sensor is bad, or a even something else going on.
I did but test and my clutch on the compressor did click 5 times
What does that mean for me???
And the relay clicked 5 times as well
Should I change the relay just to see or what should I do
The relay is good if the clutch engaged. I would check the refrigerant level, the pressure switch and the temp sensor.
I did the test and I'm getting the 5 clicks at the compressor what should I check next?
The compressor won't turn on
Check refrigerant level, it may simply be too low to activate the pressure switch.
It has refrigerant
I tried to use a inexpensive voltmeter to check the relay and the plug that comes from the compressor. Couldn't get a contact with wire in relay box or compressor plug with the meter probe. Could I jab a peice of electrical wire into the relay wire and plug wire to determine if I have power to both, using my voltmeter? Thank you again and may God bless you abundantly.
Yes, you can use a piece of wire if needed.
737mechanic I'm getting power to my compressor, a technician at Autozone told me that your clutch won't engage if the pressure on either on the high or low side isn't within specification. Is that correct?
@@robertmccann380 that is correct.
awesome video. why of why didn't I view this prior to swapping the compressor, condenser, and expansion valve! btw 737 mech nice, retired 737 pilot here
0:20 how did you check the refrigerant? My IDM seems fine... the clutch that you describe at 2:45 seems to be engaging in my car during the test but it doesn't seem to engage when the engine is on to circulate freon in the system to get the cold air to blow. I'm not sure what is wrong with my car.
I didn't have to check the refrigerant, when I did the IPDM test and seen the clutch would not engage I went after that problem first. Once i repaired the bad wiring to get the clutch to work it cooled fine.
GREAT VIDEO, THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO.
So if we can hear the clutch engaging with the test, but turning the A/C on in the car itself doesn’t work, what would you suggest?
1st check the refrigerant level, 2nd check the pressure switch, and 3rd check the ambient temp sensor.
@@737mechanic gotcha, refrigerant is good. The rest I’ll have to dig into.
@@Dorizonohi, just wondering what you found? I replaced the AC control valve but the compressor is still not kicking on while running although the test worked.
great job on the information that i've nev
er thought of or heard. i really appreciate the attention to detail.
Thanks buddy.
very good. thank you very much brother. I would like to know if for the Altima 2018 it is the same procedure?
hey I did my test on the IPDM and it works properly.. but it will not command it by pressing the AC inside. it does show that it's commanding the ac on via data on the scanner, but it shows off on BCM... a/c control box? it does have automatic a/c, is a SV model...thanks...
Does the 2012 altima do this ? My a c is doing the same thing. Sometimes it works great. Sometimes it doesn’t come on at all
Hey so I ran the exact tests you did and my ac is blowing hot, Clucht isn’t engaging and blowing burning smell. Im woundering if I do this will the clutch start engaging and will that fix my ac issue?
It will fix the problem if this ends up being your problem.
Did the test and I have clutch engagement but still not A/C and it's been recharged.
Did you figure it out? Mine is the same I’m going to check out my ac/climate control switches inside
Great info! Great narration!
Does that test work on a 2011 maxima?
Yes
Where did you get wiring diagram?
Pro Demand
thanks. raychem brand splices are awesome but expensive at 1$ per splice in 50 splice packs. without the heat gun reflector kit, you do better with a BIC 1000 but use the blue part of the flame or it will char.
Shudddd uppppppp! Stop 🛑 coming on another man's page, and telling him how to fix something he didn't ask for! It's a faux pas to do that on UA-cam. Wanna be like this man, and give advise on UA-cam LIKE HE DOES? MALE YOUR OWN UA-cam PAGE AND POST UNSOLICITED ADVISE ALLLLL DAYYYY LONGGGGG! And when a person comes along, that may or may not benefit from your video, they can take your unsolicited advise. But it is ethically RUDE, to get on ANOTHER MANS UA-cam CHANNEL, And let him know that the advise he gave war incorrect, or not valuable bc it's more expensive than you'd like. And even though you could mention this in YOUR video, it is EXCEPTIONALLY RUDE AS FK TOO DO WHAT YOU, just did. If you don't understand online adequacy, then take a class, watch a video, or just simply mind your own Godd dam business brother. With all that said, I hope you have learned something today about online behavior, and please understand, that anything I said or way I said it, was not meant to be mean, or make you feel bad about yourself, but to show you how stupid you sound and look doing it. Have a great day, and you can reply to this message if you are interested in joining a online class, taught by me, "How To", Go Fook Yourself, properly and effectively. Thanks and best wishes to you and your idiocy.
why dont u just run car with ac on and just check for power at ac compressor instead of the self test?
Because there are a few things that will prevent the compressor from coming on, this test will determine if the problem is downstream of the IPDM or upstream. If the compressor comes on with this test there is no reason to suspect the clutch or wiring from the IPDM is bad. Not to mention if the clutch comes on you didn't have to disconnect or even get a test light out.
thank you for teaching sir 🙏
So when I do test clutch does engage 5 times and with engine off I can freely spin clutch so that means clutch is good right ? I put the can with gage it is in the green shows charged however blows hot air
The clutch should be good if it engages 5 times during the test. If yours has a compressor control valve the valve could be bad, or it could be the pressure switch.
If the compressor engages with the car running but it is not cold replace the control valve. If the compressor does not engage with the car running and it is fully charged with refrigerant check the pressure switch.
Here is a video on replacing the control valve.
ua-cam.com/video/q6TOfsDUL3o/v-deo.html
And here is a video on replacing the drier which has the pressure switch on the top of it.
ua-cam.com/video/zeZaXBm351E/v-deo.html
I did this EPDM test and my clutch is engaging, but the compressor still will not engage when car is running and AC is on. Some background: Checked the 10A AC fuze-good, replaced the compressor yesterday and air dryer. Just ran the EPDM test and clutch engaged 5 times, so not the relay or the wires. 2 years ago had the PS switch in the bottom of the compressor go bad, replaced that and been working fine for 2 years, but before I figured it out I replaced the expansion valve, condenser, and air dryer. i thought it went bad again, so replaced it again before I did the compressor change yesterday. Any help on where to go next. Could it be the switch on top of the air dryer or the expansion valve that has gone bad?
The expansion valve won't prevent the compressor from engaging but a bad pressure switch will. I would check the pressure switch that is on top of the dryer. Also, the ambient air temp sensor will also. If the sensor is faulty and sending a bad reading such as 38 degrees or lower to the computer the compressor will not engage.
@@737mechanic Thanks. I bought a new pressure switch. Will let you know how it turns out. Ambient air temp sensor readout on the instrument panel seems to be accurate, so don't think that is bad...at least from what it shows on the dash readout.
It was the pressure switch on top of the air dryer. Changed to today and now she's cooling like new again. Thanks for the sage advice. Wish I'd have started here...instead of ending here. Your advice is top knotch.
Awesome, video brother. Thank you . This video helped out a lot.
What if the compressor do engages while doin the test ?? Is it the compressor itself needs to be replaced??
If the compressor engages during the test, check your refrigerant level and if it is good then replace the compressor control valve.
That’s the best question that has been asked in this thread
I see you know what your talking about about these altimas, I tried what you did on the video and my ac clutch did come on 5 times but still don't come on inside the car , I replaced everything from the relay box to the new bcm ,new climate control ,new ac pump , new condenser, new pressure release valves....I'm lost on why it's still not coming on any help I would appreciate it thanks
Does it have the correct amount of refrigerant? Does it have auto climate control or manual? See if it has any codes.
@@737mechanic yes the refrigerant is good and yes it has climate control but it doesn't ingauge when I push the ac botton
@@kevingard1074 Will probably need to have someone with a good scan tool hook up and see what the problem is. Could be something as simple as the switch itself and a scan tool will be able to see if the computer is seeing the switch as being on or off.
@@737mechanic thank you so much for the help I appreciate it
looking all of your video, it might be a common problem on these nissans
Does a/c clutch go on and off when the a/c is on and the car is working on idle in park gear on 2010 nissan altima?
Depends if it has a compressor control valve.
@@737mechanic It has one pressure switch next to the radiator
Does this work the same for a 2008 Altima?
I am not sure. The diagram is similar so it might be the same.
So I'm mechanically struggling so don't judge me. But im trying to figure this out. I do have my dad helping me and he knows a lot about cars but the electrical is so tricky. Number one let me just say thank you so much for this video because it did give us a lot of information. I took my car to an AC repair shop and they told me my compressor needed to be replaced so yesterday we replaced the compressor and a few other things. We did this test and found that the compressor clutch is getting power through the blue wire out of the IPDM and also getting power to the connector on the compressor. When we did the test the compressor was coming on. The issue is when the AC system is running, the compressor is still not turning on. Do you happen to know the circuit code or where I can find it. I guess we are going to have to backtrack all the way back down the circuit until we find the issue. We are replacing the pressure switch today. After that we are kind of stumped on a next step..
The pressure switch may fix your problem. If the compressor comes on with the IPDM self test then the two other likely causes are the pressure switch and not enough refrigerant in the system to activate the pressure switch.
thanks brother, very usefull especialy the trick of computer my nisan is 2007❤❤😊
Please help! I did the test, I heard the 5 clicks of the clutch. Maybe a leak? Low pressure hose? I have no cold air
Could be low on refrigerant.
@@737mechanic dye test shows leak at the compressor....ugh..and maybe at the firewall where the lines go in
Is this procedure the same for a 2004 Nissan Maxima?
Great video, I followed every step and the clutch is engaging but the ac qont turn on, anything else? The light just keeps flashing when I turn on ac. There's power all the way to the compressor and I visually verified that the clutch is engaging.
First, make sure the system is charged, and if it is and you have a compressor with a compressor control valve that is most likely your problem. They are a high failure item but are cheap and easy to replace. Make sure you discharge the system first before removing it. ua-cam.com/video/q6TOfsDUL3o/v-deo.html
YOU DID YOU JOB LIKE A PRO. YOU HAVE MY LIKE WITH LOVE...
Thank You!!!!! Amazing video, saved me a ton of money! Keep ‘em coming!!!
How do you test the control valve?
I replaced the CV and when diagnosed it send a signal to the AC compressor but the clutch does not engage idk if I'm pressure locked out or a bad control valve...I really appreciate this video a great job 10/10
The CV will not inhibit the clutch from engaging so if the clutch is not engaging you need to figure out if you have power at the compressor connector. If you do but the clutch is not engaging, then you have a bad clutch or possible bad ground.
Will this work for a Nissan maxima
Im not sure but it would be worth a try.
Forgive my lack of knowledge here but can you explain how you reached the conclusion that the connector was bad just because it had power during the test? I thought youd want power going there? Excellent video, I'm about to run this test on my '13 Maxima.... So power being present at the connector means the connector is bad?
When I disconnected that connector and saw the burnt pins I figured at that point the connector was the problem but I needed to make sure power was making it to that connector and once I saw power was there I new those pins were not making connection because they had been burnt. If the pins had NOT been burnt my next step would still have been checking for power at both sides of that connector until I made it all the way to the clutch. If I had power and ground all the way to the last connector at the clutch then I would have replaced the clutch itself.
Great video!! Saved my day..
What if I don't hear any clicking sound from the ac relay
My tag lights won’t work, I tried changing the bulbs. Still won’t work, would the fuse be another option to check? If so where can I find the fuse for the lights
I would be willing to bet the ground for the lights has a bad connection. If it was the fuse there would be more lights out.
@@737mechanic how could I check the ground for the lights? Never really heard of such a thing
@@GrndDontStop You need to follow the wiring and see if you can find where it is connected. The first place to start is at the bulb socket itself. Sometimes you can wiggle the sockets and get them to flicker indicating the ground is bad. Most tag lights are not that weatherproof so they get wet and that causes problems.
@@737mechanic so basically just wiggle the wiring? Or what would you suggest to do if wiggling it all the way doesn’t work.
@@GrndDontStop I would get a test light and check to see if it has power and or ground to the connector.
I’m having an issue with a 2015 Altima. The AC isn’t working it is blowing hot air. We have replaced the expansion valve, the blend door actuator, and added Freon. The air still isn’t working. Initially, it was blowing hot air all the time. After changing the blend door actuator it finally turns off and on, but only blows hot air. I need help. It would be amazing if you were in San Antonio area to get in person help.
Went through this test and the compressor is kicking on. Any additional ideas to get the AC to work?
@@kvaladez85 Start the car and turn on the A/C, see if the compressor is kicking on and if it is see if the low side line(the bigger line) going into the car at the firewall is getting cold. If it is then you have blend door issues.
If the compressor is on but the line isn't cold then you either have a bad compressor or control valve.
If the compressor isn't coming on and you do have refrigerant in the system then the pressure switch could be the problem.
I am in the Dallas area.
Here is a video on replacing the control valve if your car has one.
ua-cam.com/video/q6TOfsDUL3o/v-deo.html
Here is a video on replacing the compressor if you have to do that.
ua-cam.com/video/EbA3Cz2VeZM/v-deo.html
Thanks for the video! I performed the test and the clutch is not operating. I bought a new relay from Autozone but am having trouble locating where to replace it. Can you post the website where you got the relay schematic for this car? Is the MG clutch relay built into the IDPM? Or is it a changeable relay? Such as, one piece? Thanks.
Did you check the compressor connector and see if you had 12 volts while doing the test?
My ac isn’t blowing hard but my blower motor and fan seem fine I bought a ac blower motor resister replacement could that be the problem? It’s cold ac but not blowing hard anymore even on full blast circulate mode
If your blower motor seems fine and goes from low to high but you don't have much blowing from the vents it may be a mode door not moving from one position to another.
Where is the location for an A/C relay for a 2014 Altima?
It is in the IPDM under the hood.
Hey bud great information but im a bit on the dim side lol. my altima, the compressor clutch engages 5 times during the self test but when running normally it dont work. Can you give me a hint lol. id guess the comp control valve, expansion valve or the high and low pressure sensor. The self test passed all tests as far as i know, so it wouldnt be the ipdm or the plug you fixed on yours. im not the best with a multimeter, i guess its time i get better. you do great work and a great service!
The first step is to make sure it is full of refrigerant, The control valve and expansion valve will NOT prevent the compressor from coming on so those are not your problem. The pressure sensors will prevent it from coming on. I believe the ambient air temp sensor will also prevent it from coming on. You need to hook a scan tool up so you can see if there are any codes and look at the live data to see what the pressure sensors and temp sensor is reading.
Mine passed the test as for the clutch engaged 5 times . So should I replace the pigtail or check other things. When I did the idm test I didn't unplug anything and lights ,wipers fans ac clutch engaged 5 times. But no air and clutch doesn't engage when I turn it on in the car . Ac compressor fuse is good
My car is a 2013 Nissan Altima and has the same condition as yours the clutch in the compressor is not engaging... hope this information helps me save some money.. cause I have been told my compressor is not good any more..thanks 😊
You might want to see if this video helps also.
ua-cam.com/video/SA_IE7WivHU/v-deo.html
Great Video! Solved my issue!
Hows it bad you had power to it
Thanks for this video.. Did the test and hear clicks from compressor but not sure its fully engaging. Should i say screw it and change the compressor?
If it is clicking and sounds strong I wouldn't change the compressor. With the car running see if the clutch is ingaged and turning.
@@737mechanic it is def turning.ouch to the finger ha. But the click to me doesnt sound to strong. And ive heard of the altimas being kind of famous for the compressor going bad
@@aaronwilhite1095 Does your altima have automatic climate control. Or do you know if the compressor has a control valve?
@@737mechanicyea its auto and not sure bout control valve. Im messing with it little by little while on breaks at work
@@aaronwilhite1095 if it has the control valve that is what I would change first. You can get one for as little as 20.00 and they are a high failure item and people change compressors when all it is is the valve.
My fuse burns out repeatedly when ac switched on.. The compressor runs gor a while and the the fuse burns out.. Y?? Plss hlp.. Nissan bluebird 2006
What is that actual double connector called? I'm looking to order a replacement.
They are weather pack connectors. Here are a couple links to some kits that might be as cheap as ordering just one.
amzn.to/3z5Ty2s
amzn.to/3AOjfWn
Hi brother I did the testings and all seems to be going well the clutch kicks in in the test..so does the fan also start..but..when I start the car neither one of them are coming on/ fan nor clutch... could it be the compressor control valve..? Thanks for your help.. God bless you
No because the compressor will be running even if the compressor control valve was bad. I would make sure it is charged up enough and I would suspect the pressure switch.
@@737mechanic thanks 👍😊
Ac was blowing strong cold air, then cool now warm. Had it checked again w new compressor/condenser replaced 2021, 22' another compressor almost a yr ago. Changed cabin filter helped but now this again. I feel they missed something or didn't chk everything or like u did. Help😢
Lol when I saw your splice tool and splices I was thinking…That’s aviation equipment, and then you confirmed saying automotive wire melts faster than aviation wire.
DOES A 2019 IMPALA WORK THE SAME ?
The Gm vehicles have different wiring but the basics are the same. You still need to check and see if you have power and ground at the compressor.
Can I try the same test ( with 10 times click on door ) with my Nissan maxima 2014.
I tried buy not working ...any solution
It may not work on all Nissan's but here is a video that might sow more detial. ua-cam.com/video/SA_IE7WivHU/v-deo.html