ULTIMATE 6.0 TOW RIG❗️+ NEW PRODUCT RELEASE❗️
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- Опубліковано 15 кві 2023
- ULTIMATE 6.0 TOW RIG-TAIL LIGHT UPDATE!
My Buddy Curt in his 2006 F350 6.0 powerstroke, stops by for a little bit of a tail light upgrade/update. He discusses how me and him connected and the story behind his beautiful ford truck.
The updated 08 Tail lights and install kit is available on the website!
TAIL LIGHT LINK❗️
leftlanediesels.com/collectio...
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leftlanediesels.com/
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left_lane_cbull
Keywords
Race truck
Rolling coal
Built diesel
Stanced out
Cammed out
Hood stack
Straight piped
Loud turbo
Big turbo
Twin turbo
Loud exhaust
Kc turbos
Ported intake
No limit
6.0 powerstroke
Cummins diesel
12 valve
Duramax diesel
Huge burnout - Авто та транспорт
![Lp. Последняя Реальность #97 ЧЁРНАЯ МАТЕРИЯ [Анти Скинт] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/k4MjXCzKsYw/mqdefault.jpg)
Clean for the year! You can definitely tell Kurt takes care of it.
Nice, def gonna do that lil upgrade to my tow rig, looks so good.
Thanks for the video! Love the channel. Would you have any opinion on which reverse tail light is actually brighter, easier to navigate a truck at night; 99-07 or 08-16 tail light housing? I've heard mixed things from individuals. I like the updated look (08-16), and bought a set of 3156 male socket pigtails so I could simply plug into the existing reverse socket in case I wanted to revert back to the factory OEM without rewiring. Thanks!
Hey how it’s going , I’m about to do head studs on my 6.0 , was wondering if it’s necessary to upgrade to 6.4 push rods while I’m in there ? For preventative maintenance?
What size tires are you running? looks real good love the look!
Beautiful truck.
Would you sell just the adapter plugs separate? I already have the LEDs and a nearly new set of oem 08-16 tails
Always happy to see a LLD video come out! I would like to duplicate that engine on mine.
One small suggestion if may, i have found that for connections like those reverse lights, might want to remove the crimp connectors and solder instead as time allows. Two things- that larger heat shrink tubing is too big to seal the wires, and then when soldered, a smaller heat shrink can be used which will seal better and buy the kind labelled as "adhesive lined". It will have some sealant that will ooze out after shrinking it to really seal well. I know those salty roads are unforgiving on anything wiring! Although as clean as that dually is, he obviously takes really good care of it.
I wish I was closer I'd bring some of that tubing over myself.
Looking forward to your truck pulls this summer!!!
The heat shrink we used was lined with adhesive that pushes out, it’s the only way to go with heat shrink! Solder is definitely a great option just most people won’t easily be able to use, so the butt splice with the adhesive lined heat shrink should be manageable for most.
i like the lower Valence on the front bumper from a 08-16 truck on a Build like that. Reduces overall drag and squeezing as many MPG's out as possible. its functional and doesn't really interfere with anything. the ones that came on these trucks in my opinion are laughably small. like they don't even do anything. they're about 1/5th the size.
Dude I couldn’t agree more, the oe ones suck! These larger ones not only look good but like you said functional too, reduces drag which can inherently increase MPG.
What’s the part number on the ford sockets
It’s almost my trucks twin
Yep, something else to look into getting. 😂
Hello again 👋 is there anyway i can get in touch with you? I need to do my injectors and would like for you to do the job. Its a 2007 6.0
Awesome video, my only wish is that we would have gotten to see this monster pull some weight! Given your experience on these trucks, what is your opinion on the CALLIES Billet Enduro Stage 2 camshaft? Can I run this camshaft on stock intake with stock injectors without disappointment? I'm looking at the stage 2 rebuild kit on (DDPM)Dynamic Diesel Performance & Machine. Any knowledge you have helps, I want something I don't have to worry about growing out of. Again thanks for this week's video!
Thanks for the support Justin. I’m hoping we can get this dually in the spotlight some more in the future with some towing action videos. Stay tuned!
Hello Curt,
Would like to see and hear of your build. I’ve been looking at the same……I don’t need to “Role Coal!” 😂🤣……want more power, as long as reliable…..which is what matters.
Thanks
What state are you in
Maybe you mentioned it and I missed but what exhaust does this truck have? Or is it straight piped? I have 6.0 dually as well and want something with some sound but not extremely loud like a straight pipe.
Truck has 4" MBRP turbo back kit, straight piped with a 6" tip. Also worth mentioning, 13 blade turbo. With it being a CCLB there’s no noticeable noise in the cab from this exhaust configuration. Thanks
@@montec984 Does that have a pac brake or anything on it? What is the whistle change that's happening? I just bought a 04 f350 cclb drw 160k miles and will be changing the exhaust to 4 or 5" straight pipe and a 10 blade kc kit. My truck is 100% stock.
@@TJSTEDMAN no PAC brake or anything like that. The truck has a switch for interrupting the VGT solenoid. When circuit is open, the vanes default to open. I primarily use it for cooling down before I shut the truck off. I also like the throaty sound of open vanes. Exhaust is 4" by the way. You will like a KC turbo setup, especially if you are able to combo it with the recommended injectors. Thanks.
@@montec984 okay, so at 8:15 of this video when you start up it's just normal vgt operation when it starts whistling real loud? Or did you hit the switch to kill power to the solenoid? I've heard mixed reviews of the "smoke switch"
@@TJSTEDMAN it starts out throaty sounding and that's with no power to the solenoid, then I close the switch for a few seconds, which allows the PCM to command the vanes to close and causes the turbo to spool and whistle, the I open the switch again. I have personally never used it to make smoke but that's just not my thing. I definitely like opening the switch (vanes default open- throaty sound) to aid in EGT cool down and when shutting the engine off like this, the turbo isn't spinning as fast when you cut off the oil supply to it. Hope this makes sense.
Ever do a video about adding an oil pressure gauge on the 6.0? I can’t find anything
No I haven’t but the race truck will no longer have the dummy oil pressure switch. I’ll be installing a pressure gauge to monitor and data log.
@@LeftLaneDiesels cool
Does that Kc stage 1 have the 13 or 10 blade?
It's actually a stage 1.5 which only comes with a 13 blade. I believe they have discontinued the 1.5. I am beyond impressed with this turbo. Seems to be a perfect fit for this combination.
U r located in Michigan!!? Do u have a shop for the public? I'd love to have u check my truck out
Michigander tried and true! I do not have a public shop. However I work VERY closely with T&A Diesel out of Marshall Mi, I would trust those guys with my own truck!
Please help my 06 6.0l is a crank no start the injectors aren't getting power it doesn't go thru the injector click when I turn switch fuel pump comes on but it doesn't cycle the injectors
Need to check ficm connectors, make sure they are properly plugged in.
If not that then may need to do some electrical diag
Hey Cody! I watched a huge amount of LLD UA-cam before tackling my 6.0. started with a fresh machined block..020 over. I built it from the crank up. 155/30 holders, rcd stage 1 cam, kc stage 1 turbo, odawg stage 2 intake, s&b fresh air, mishmoto cac tubes, mandrel bent 90 on the intake and o-ringed heads. ARP Studs of coarse. What do you think that will do for hp and torque? I'm gonna get blessed tunes soon. Currently using edge cts2 canned tunes. I have an sctx4 tho too. @leftlanediesels
Brother, help. My truck is coming to a very low idle when I come to a stop some times it has also died coming to a stop. It starts right back up...
Likely a icp sensor issue
Not ICP its the backpressure sensor and pigtail. ^^ this guy is trippin. The wires start touching on the pigtail at the sensor and do what you described plus also cause a surge at idle
Yea don’t listen to me-I’m trippin; 🤣
I will say I’ve never seen a bad ebp sensor and or pigtail cause a truck to die. I’ve seen a bad ebp cause 5v reference issues, vgt/boost issues, but NEVER stall a truck.
@@Trinity_Window_Products explain why my truck did the same thing. and my Exhaust back pressure sensor isn't used. with a Borg Warner 369 SXE.......... its the ICP. or Pigtail. had it replaced same day issues went away instantly. i normally don't replace the pigtail unless its visibly damaged or the pins look worn or corroded. i put a whole brand new wiring harness in my truck for 400 dollars. a year ago. my harness chaffed on the inside. in multipul locations. and would cause intermittent issues. used a Tone Generator/Cable tracker. i got off amazon for 16 bucks. i started testing from one pin at a time on PCM connection. and quickly realized. the harness is fucked when a couple dozen of the pins Ocasionally made the signal go down 10 diffrent wires. and 3 diffrent directions.
Is that a vane sweep tune? What tune is that???
He has a switch that interrupts the vgt pigtail ground. So he can cycle the veins open when he doesn’t want the loud whistle. He has also noticed that opening the veins drastically helped cool down time on his egts.
@@LeftLaneDiesels Oh, that makes sense. I have that switch as well, but never really touch it. I have it to make my KC stage 2 not so loud while it's high idling on cold mornings. It's also good for the A holes on the road that deserve a little bit of soot, if you know what I mean. (I don't do it to random people for no reason) lol
@@brettrichards666 What switch is this? Is it a kit or something you made?
@@gabewall7381 just a switch to the vgt solenoid to shut it off
@@gabewall7381 Theres 2 wires at the VGT solenoid on your tubo. Find the power wire, cut it and splice a new wire and run it to one of your factory AUX switches on your dash. If you don't have the factory AUX switches, just buy and add an AUX switch of your own. You'll have to look up wich wire is power, and look up wich wire go's to the AUX of your choice and connect them together. It's been a few years for me, but I believe the AUX wires are under your dash, left of your steering wheel. There is also a high idle wire under there as well, that's not hooked up, that you can connect to the AUX switches.