At 115,000 I installed the bullet proof oil cooler and I’ve had it about 5 months and so far I love it my oil temps have stayed under 200 and before it was getting up about 240
That’s the way to do it! Eliminating the stock oil cooler/filter setup solves 90% of the 6.0 problems. No coolant filters, no deletes. Throw on a BPD EGR cooler, water pump and FICM. Keep everything else stock…injectors and air filter. And they will run reliably without major issues. Do your maintenance!
Hope You replaced the alternator. That’s the first thing we had trouble with when we started towing. The stock alternator is from a Ford Fusion. That will take out your FICM.
@@richfarfugnuven6308 mean green is garbage. I'll make a video of a self built large case hairpin drop in unit that will run circles around that green turd at idle and cruise speed. Total cost was around $220, with a digital external and adjustable setpoint, wire and paint to make it as fancy as any aftermarket option.
The deltas aren't as big of a deal, it's really whether it cools down after finishing a hill, the stock parameters will only throw a code if your deltas get to 50 degrees plus, so 40 isn't great but not terrible. Just watch and make sure that the Delta lowers once it crests the hill or gets to flat ground like you said, 8 degrees is more than fine, remember that these monitors aren't always accurate, so the actual number isn't as important and what the direction the temps are going
My coolant temps are always higher than my oil temps by like 15 degrees but my coolant temp never gets over 188-190. Why is that? Seems to run great, only has 60k miles
In the future cover your license plates as big brother is always watching.. I moved from your state recently and feel I can breathe again with zero emissions testing in my county..
1300 to 1400 degrees is pretty hot, just remember aluminum melts at 1200 degrees so anything hotter is no go zone, it's okay to bounce off of it but I wouldn't trust sustained huts
that bumper hitch is going to hit everything from curbs to driveways...and truck stop fuel islands..you'll figure it out real quick.. other than that good work
The drop hitch? I should’ve went with a little less drop, but even then, it would only scrape when backing out of my driveway. Since switching to 35’s, it doesn’t seem to scrape anywhere.
The 4.30’s are great for towing. I was averaging 13-14 mpg highway/empty and about 8 mpg towing on stock tires. I’m on 35’s now, and averaging 12 mpg highway. I don’t have mpg data towing yet.
@Lee's Garage Randy there is a lot of people who say the coolant mod is worthless (not effective) what do you think of an inline filter screen? Usually 60 to 100 microns.
Where would you be placing this inline filter screen? I’m no expert on this subject, but the way I understand the coolant filtration is, it’s a long game. No, you won’t be pulling all the contamination out every pass, but eventually you’ll capture most of it.
Did those Riffraff boots stop the oil from leaking out at high boost like you mentioned. I have an 05’ F350 and every time we tow our RV I have to clean oil from the underside of my hood.
In my case the boots seemed to be seeping more than spraying. I haven’t noticed any oil on the outside of the boots since. If the oil is spraying you probably have a pretty bad boost leak (would possibly be fixed by boots) and possible a need for a turbo rebuild.
riffraff boots are great. ive been running them for 2 years. if youve got any oil getting through your boots they need replaced. i got the riffraff clamps too.
Hey Daren, this is the only thing I have experience with as we had it installed before we took delivery of the trailer, so I don’t have much to compare it to. That being said, we love it. It’s super simple to hook up, rides smooth, and your truck bed is always available. 10/10 would recommend.
that coolant filter isn't stopping contaminants before the oil cooler, it's stopping them after they pass through the cooler...meaning it is pretty much worthless. The delta is also 15 degrees not 10.
I wish I could explain something so basic to you. You are cleaning all of the contamination out over time. Jesus, you don't understand basic filtration do you? By this reasoning I should run an oil filter the first 25 miles when I change my oil, then remove it...
I have one. Not as good for towing heavy. Not even close. I have well over $10k in aftermarket performance mods. My unstuded 6.0 will absolutely walk circles around it with a simple tune and supporting mods. I paid $13k for the 7.3, and $8k for my 6.0. I got way better value for my $ with the 6.0, by far. Not an average specimen however, nd not everyone's experience. I got lucky and landed a very clean and well kept ccsb king ranch. I can tell ya, I won't be pissing away $ building the 7.3 anymore. She's on backup duty now, and that's it. Looks great at my house though! 😂
At 115,000 I installed the bullet proof oil cooler and I’ve had it about 5 months and so far I love it my oil temps have stayed under 200 and before it was getting up about 240
That’s the way to do it! Eliminating the stock oil cooler/filter setup solves 90% of the 6.0 problems. No coolant filters, no deletes. Throw on a BPD EGR cooler, water pump and FICM. Keep everything else stock…injectors and air filter. And they will run reliably without major issues. Do your maintenance!
Man that is one beautiful 6.0 dually!
Thank you! It’s about to get a lot better!
I will say a water-methanol injection system made a 250-300 degree drop in my EGT'S. 100% worth it.
Please replace that coolant degas bottle before it leaves you stranded
You need to upgrade that plastic CAC tube. Mine split at 150K. I realize you have less than that, but it’s a worthwhile upgrade.
Thanks man. What did you end up upgrading with? OEM, or???
@@LeesGarage OEM wasn’t available at the time. It was from Gates if I recall correctly.
@@LeesGarage Go with the Motorcraft metal upgrade, it's right around $250 and comes with the boots.
Mines got 300,000 on the clock and still blowing strong 😎
Hope You replaced the alternator. That’s the first thing we had trouble with when we started towing. The stock alternator is from a Ford Fusion. That will take out your FICM.
I went with a Mean Green alternator.
@@richfarfugnuven6308 mean green is garbage.
I'll make a video of a self built large case hairpin drop in unit that will run circles around that green turd at idle and cruise speed. Total cost was around $220, with a digital external and adjustable setpoint, wire and paint to make it as fancy as any aftermarket option.
better yet, just get the optional second Ford Fusion alternator
The deltas aren't as big of a deal, it's really whether it cools down after finishing a hill, the stock parameters will only throw a code if your deltas get to 50 degrees plus, so 40 isn't great but not terrible. Just watch and make sure that the Delta lowers once it crests the hill or gets to flat ground like you said, 8 degrees is more than fine, remember that these monitors aren't always accurate, so the actual number isn't as important and what the direction the temps are going
That Delta is bad do you have a coolant filter? I am stopping go back routes right now. Listening to UA-cam videos and I am 192 194 at 90° outside
My coolant temps are always higher than my oil temps by like 15 degrees but my coolant temp never gets over 188-190. Why is that? Seems to run great, only has 60k miles
In the future cover your license plates as big brother is always watching.. I moved from your state recently and feel I can breathe again with zero emissions testing in my county..
the coolant filtration filters so slow it doesn’t really make a difference from what i noticed
1300 to 1400 degrees is pretty hot, just remember aluminum melts at 1200 degrees so anything hotter is no go zone, it's okay to bounce off of it but I wouldn't trust sustained huts
Should have gotten a new OEM degas bottle first!
that bumper hitch is going to hit everything from curbs to driveways...and truck stop fuel islands..you'll figure it out real quick.. other than that good work
The drop hitch? I should’ve went with a little less drop, but even then, it would only scrape when backing out of my driveway. Since switching to 35’s, it doesn’t seem to scrape anywhere.
How do you like the 4.30 gears? How's the fuel mileage? I'm torn between doing 4.10s or 4.3s
The 4.30’s are great for towing. I was averaging 13-14 mpg highway/empty and about 8 mpg towing on stock tires. I’m on 35’s now, and averaging 12 mpg highway. I don’t have mpg data towing yet.
@@LeesGarage awesome thanks
@Lee's Garage Randy there is a lot of people who say the coolant mod is worthless (not effective) what do you think of an inline filter screen? Usually 60 to 100 microns.
Where would you be placing this inline filter screen? I’m no expert on this subject, but the way I understand the coolant filtration is, it’s a long game. No, you won’t be pulling all the contamination out every pass, but eventually you’ll capture most of it.
Did those Riffraff boots stop the oil from leaking out at high boost like you mentioned. I have an 05’ F350 and every time we tow our RV I have to clean oil from the underside of my hood.
In my case the boots seemed to be seeping more than spraying. I haven’t noticed any oil on the outside of the boots since. If the oil is spraying you probably have a pretty bad boost leak (would possibly be fixed by boots) and possible a need for a turbo rebuild.
I’ve been running the riffraff boots for over a year now and they are great...
riffraff boots are great. ive been running them for 2 years. if youve got any oil getting through your boots they need replaced. i got the riffraff clamps too.
How do you like the Gen y. I am buying a toy hauler and want the same setup you have.
Hey Daren, this is the only thing I have experience with as we had it installed before we took delivery of the trailer, so I don’t have much to compare it to. That being said, we love it. It’s super simple to hook up, rides smooth, and your truck bed is always available. 10/10 would recommend.
can i have a link for your monitor mount? want to get one for my livewire plus
Hey David, this is the one I have. www.edgeproducts.com/products/dash_pods_and_mounts/parts/18502
that coolant filter isn't stopping contaminants before the oil cooler, it's stopping them after they pass through the cooler...meaning it is pretty much worthless. The delta is also 15 degrees not 10.
The coolant only cycles one time?
I wish I could explain something so basic to you. You are cleaning all of the contamination out over time. Jesus, you don't understand basic filtration do you? By this reasoning I should run an oil filter the first 25 miles when I change my oil, then remove it...
@@richfarfugnuven6308 exactly. 👍
Hey what kind of tires are on this truck?
They’re Falken Wildpeak AT3 in 315/70R17
How is the 5-wheel tow capacity 18k on that truck?, 450?
It’s an F350, but it has the “Tow Boss” package that which has 4.30 gears and bumps GCWR to 26,000, and 5th wheel capacity to 18,100.
6.0 or 6.4 better?
6.0. 6.4’s are absolute garbage
@@RockyMountainHunters 6.0 isn’t you have no idea what you are on about
@@Isaac-mo5gg I’m only a diesel mechanic lol. 6.0’s are way better than 6.4’s your on crack
@@Isaac-mo5gg your definitely a fool
@@RockyMountainHunters I just said that a 6.0 is better then 6.4. That is exactly what I just said
The #1 MOD is BUY A 7.3
I have one. Not as good for towing heavy. Not even close. I have well over $10k in aftermarket performance mods. My unstuded 6.0 will absolutely walk circles around it with a simple tune and supporting mods. I paid $13k for the 7.3, and $8k for my 6.0.
I got way better value for my $ with the 6.0, by far. Not an average specimen however, nd not everyone's experience. I got lucky and landed a very clean and well kept ccsb king ranch.
I can tell ya, I won't be pissing away $ building the 7.3 anymore. She's on backup duty now, and that's it. Looks great at my house though! 😂
😂😂😂😂
What company do you get the tunes for tow?
This truck isn’t tuned.
@@LeesGarage if it is not tuned because it has a devise?
Best mod right here = don’t buy a 6.0 🤪