Really well edited video -- the interspersed Magnus clips and the visual presentation on your stats / workout breakdowns were really well done. I'd be curious what kind of experience you'd have with Emil Abrahamsson's fingerboard workout/routine (the multi-hang/day with low intensity), could be cool to see how the stats differ and if you (like most others) experience less finger pain with that. My highest priority in climbing is staying healthy, and I think this Emil's routine is the best for yielding results while abating normal climbing injuries. Personally, I've found that the load Magnus puts into his weekly workouts is way too high for any average mortal climber, but the fundamentals are still good to study!
Really appreciate it!!🔥Definitely thinking of doing something similar with Emil Abrahamsson's routine and documenting my experience. Could be more suitable as well as I'm trying to take it a bit easier now so my fingers can recover. During this challenge each time I felt it getting a bit better, I'd walk out of the gym feeling pain again 🤣
The only thing I'm missing is my shirt off🤣. Thanks for watching!! If you enjoyed, please consider subscribing! Feel free to leave any questions in the comments! 🫶 Get 10% OFF ANY item at Rúngne: www.rungne.com/LESHGO. Use code: LESHGO
The video and the edit were really good. I don't know much about bouldering but the results/accomplishments are crazy 🤯 Also some of the funkiest socks too hahaha 🧦
Such a nice video and great commitment doing the exercises for a whole month. I would like to see the finger strenght in a full crimp closed position. I think you can do much more with the thumb over the index finger.... btw new sub :)
Thanks Søren! Appreciate the kind words! Interestingly enough, I've really never used the full crimp closed position in climbing but I think it's stronger! Subbed to! Keep up the good work! 😄
@@Justin_Ly I've heard that it can be unsafe to use the full crimp. So be careful! It is definitely a good tool for final sends or for outside where that extra support comes handy.
I think it is nice that you still prioritized having fun and trying the boulders with all you've got before tiring yourself out with the workout. Climbing is generally about the feel, the flow, and the fun (the three F-s lol) and not about feeling repetitive and boring. It was also interesting to see what a high intensity workout does to someone. My finger would have hurt too. Great editing, great concept! Looking forward to seeing more from you! Cheers
I used to do high intensity and high volume climbing each time I climb and that led to a lot of finger and body tweaks/injury. Once I realized that kind of training wasn't sustainable in the long term, I always make sure to invert the ratios of intensity and volume, eg. high intensity and low volume for strength, vice versa for endurance. Not to say high volume, high intensity doesn't have its place since that will target power endurance (e.g. 4x4), I make sure to have longer rest days for this type of training and make sure it's only one or two times a week and never back to back. Definitely being able to categorize my training into these 3 types helped me a lot as a climber.
This is very useful information! Thanks!🙏Yes, having a routine that doesn't overload your body is important. Magnus actually has another video where he goes through his competition training routine. Initially, I was going to do that, but it was way too intense for me. 😂
@@Justin_Ly haha i agree. if you're getting injury/tweakiness definitely lowering volume is key but do take advantage of your youth! recovery in general is quicker if you're younger but i'm nearing mid 30s so I have to plan things out a bit more and add in more rest days. i recommend checking out @richardsonsclimbing for reference. I wouldn't say follow his plan 1:1 but it's a good blue print and he also adds in several rest days periodically in order for full recovery. @c4hp also is a good reference to add to your existing finger training knowledge. it's awesome you're creating your own training plan so keep at it! you're definitely growing stronger.
Start front lever with easier progression like tuck front lever, you have already got the strength for it. You will progress really quick to advanced tuck or one leg front lever with your level. Then you can use a resistance band to train full front lever if you have a low bar in your gym. You won't regret to train front lever, great way to train your lat strength , scapular retraction and core strength at the same time. I am new to bouldering as well and I have calisthenics background. Since I can do muscle up and front lever but not yet one arm pull up, the strength still helps me a lot to learn very quick in bouldering. Cheers!
hey Toby!! Thanks for the comment!! I am indeed working on the front lever! Been on and off now for several months with little progress made. Much harder than I thought!! Need to train harder and more specific to get it but hopefully in the near future! Thanks for the tips. Good luck with your climbing. With your calisthenics background, I'm sure you'll crush it 💪💪
Bro im thinking of doing a similar video just going from basically 0 experience. Searched up the title im gonna put on it and found your video (to look at competition). Very cool i like your video its very professional. My only critique is I think you should incorporate your personality more. I would also say be less negative about yourself but stay humble. The plateau comment about yourself was too harsh imo. Anyway keep it up you earned a subscription.
Thank you so much!! Really appreciate the feedback!! Yes, definitely some stuff to work on!! 🔥 You should definitely make a video and document your journey! From my experience it's extremely rewarding!
I have a question: how many times in one week did you climb? cause from what I understood if I climb 3 times a week and I use the Workout A at the third session I just climb freely? is that right? and then the next week I only use the Workout B once. Sorry for the confusion, great video, very inspiring!
Thanks mate really appreciate the comment!! I did Workout A 2 times a week and Workout B once a week. I hope that clarifies your question! Let me know if you have any others! All the best 💪
Great job Justin, really cool to see the improvement💪🏼
This is epic!🤯 Cheers Magnus 🐐🐐
the one and only
Really well edited video -- the interspersed Magnus clips and the visual presentation on your stats / workout breakdowns were really well done. I'd be curious what kind of experience you'd have with Emil Abrahamsson's fingerboard workout/routine (the multi-hang/day with low intensity), could be cool to see how the stats differ and if you (like most others) experience less finger pain with that. My highest priority in climbing is staying healthy, and I think this Emil's routine is the best for yielding results while abating normal climbing injuries.
Personally, I've found that the load Magnus puts into his weekly workouts is way too high for any average mortal climber, but the fundamentals are still good to study!
Really appreciate it!!🔥Definitely thinking of doing something similar with Emil Abrahamsson's routine and documenting my experience. Could be more suitable as well as I'm trying to take it a bit easier now so my fingers can recover. During this challenge each time I felt it getting a bit better, I'd walk out of the gym feeling pain again 🤣
I suggest trying the wrist curls with thumb over instead of under. I much prefer it, really gets into the muscles on the back of your forearm.
Great advice!! Will implement for sure!! Cheers 🔥
The only thing I'm missing is my shirt off🤣.
Thanks for watching!! If you enjoyed, please consider subscribing! Feel free to leave any questions in the comments! 🫶
Get 10% OFF ANY item at Rúngne: www.rungne.com/LESHGO.
Use code: LESHGO
The video and the edit were really good. I don't know much about bouldering but the results/accomplishments are crazy 🤯 Also some of the funkiest socks too hahaha 🧦
Chers Edward! Always appreciate it! 🫶 Yes I love my Maccas socks ahaha!
Such a nice video and great commitment doing the exercises for a whole month. I would like to see the finger strenght in a full crimp closed position. I think you can do much more with the thumb over the index finger.... btw new sub :)
Thanks Søren! Appreciate the kind words! Interestingly enough, I've really never used the full crimp closed position in climbing but I think it's stronger! Subbed to! Keep up the good work! 😄
too*@@Justin_Ly
@@Justin_Ly I've heard that it can be unsafe to use the full crimp. So be careful! It is definitely a good tool for final sends or for outside where that extra support comes handy.
@@muffinfan2652 Thanks for the tips! Will keep that in mind 👊
I think it is nice that you still prioritized having fun and trying the boulders with all you've got before tiring yourself out with the workout. Climbing is generally about the feel, the flow, and the fun (the three F-s lol) and not about feeling repetitive and boring.
It was also interesting to see what a high intensity workout does to someone.
My finger would have hurt too.
Great editing, great concept! Looking forward to seeing more from you! Cheers
Thanks mate! Genuinely really appreciate your comment!! Climbing is definitely too fun to feel repetitive and boring ahhah! Keep crushing 💪
Quality video dude!
Cheers mate!! 💪💪
I used to do high intensity and high volume climbing each time I climb and that led to a lot of finger and body tweaks/injury. Once I realized that kind of training wasn't sustainable in the long term, I always make sure to invert the ratios of intensity and volume, eg. high intensity and low volume for strength, vice versa for endurance. Not to say high volume, high intensity doesn't have its place since that will target power endurance (e.g. 4x4), I make sure to have longer rest days for this type of training and make sure it's only one or two times a week and never back to back. Definitely being able to categorize my training into these 3 types helped me a lot as a climber.
This is very useful information! Thanks!🙏Yes, having a routine that doesn't overload your body is important. Magnus actually has another video where he goes through his competition training routine. Initially, I was going to do that, but it was way too intense for me. 😂
@@Justin_Ly haha i agree. if you're getting injury/tweakiness definitely lowering volume is key but do take advantage of your youth! recovery in general is quicker if you're younger but i'm nearing mid 30s so I have to plan things out a bit more and add in more rest days. i recommend checking out @richardsonsclimbing for reference. I wouldn't say follow his plan 1:1 but it's a good blue print and he also adds in several rest days periodically in order for full recovery. @c4hp also is a good reference to add to your existing finger training knowledge. it's awesome you're creating your own training plan so keep at it! you're definitely growing stronger.
this video was well put together.🔥 New subscriber over here
Thanks Jordan!! Appreciate the support!! I've definitely stumbled across your climbing content before 🤣. Subbed also! Keep crushing it 💪
Epic progression 📈
Thank you sir! 💙
Great channel
Thanks mate! Appreciate it!! 🤝
elite video lad
Cheers King 💜
Start front lever with easier progression like tuck front lever, you have already got the strength for it. You will progress really quick to advanced tuck or one leg front lever with your level. Then you can use a resistance band to train full front lever if you have a low bar in your gym. You won't regret to train front lever, great way to train your lat strength , scapular retraction and core strength at the same time. I am new to bouldering as well and I have calisthenics background. Since I can do muscle up and front lever but not yet one arm pull up, the strength still helps me a lot to learn very quick in bouldering. Cheers!
hey Toby!! Thanks for the comment!! I am indeed working on the front lever! Been on and off now for several months with little progress made. Much harder than I thought!! Need to train harder and more specific to get it but hopefully in the near future! Thanks for the tips. Good luck with your climbing. With your calisthenics background, I'm sure you'll crush it 💪💪
How many milimeters were the ledges you tested your finger strength on? 20mm, 25mm?
I think 25mm!
@@Justin_Ly thanks, good luck with your further training
Thanks!!@@cedricrust9953 Really appreciate it! 🔥
Bro im thinking of doing a similar video just going from basically 0 experience. Searched up the title im gonna put on it and found your video (to look at competition). Very cool i like your video its very professional. My only critique is I think you should incorporate your personality more. I would also say be less negative about yourself but stay humble. The plateau comment about yourself was too harsh imo. Anyway keep it up you earned a subscription.
Thank you so much!! Really appreciate the feedback!! Yes, definitely some stuff to work on!! 🔥 You should definitely make a video and document your journey! From my experience it's extremely rewarding!
@@Justin_Ly gonna let you know when its ready. Now i have to do it.
I have a question: how many times in one week did you climb? cause from what I understood if I climb 3 times a week and I use the Workout A at the third session I just climb freely? is that right? and then the next week I only use the Workout B once. Sorry for the confusion, great video, very inspiring!
Thanks mate really appreciate the comment!! I did Workout A 2 times a week and Workout B once a week. I hope that clarifies your question! Let me know if you have any others! All the best 💪
What’s your body weight so we know your relative finger strength? Great video btw!
Hi! I'm around 68/69kg at the moment! Thank so much!! 😀
all you need to work on now is flexibility, which is arguably the easiest to do and the easiest to skip
🤫This is so true!! Definitely something to work on 🤣 Cheers!
Ditch the socks
I love my McDonalds socks tho! 🤣
As a sweaty boy, socks in shoes is the best. More grip and no stink.