Hey Alex, just an idea for the base boards, you can get a much higher stiffness in the large panels by casting them on a sheet with a repeating ridged pattern. You see it a lot with 3D printing to increase strength of thin parts. The pattern can be set on the surface you set the composite on when curing and will imprint the texture onto your parts. It would greatly increase part strength without adding weight. Hope this helps!
Exactly what I was about to suggest. Also if all the panels have the same pattern they can stack and minimize the size they take up while packed. Look into sheet metal fabrication as they have the same necessities of a lightweight thin material that needs high strength. They press and bend ridges and triangulated shapes into the metal to strengthen it while not adding any material.
@@CupolaDaze Good idea! I wonder if he could use a well-insulative spray on the outside to reduce the thermal transfer. It could be lightweight but help the side stay warm, which would be a problem with CF or metal builds.
It worked for me. Treated myself to a new bivibag from Alpkit after the last video. I like supporting local manufacture. A couple of week to first adventures.
Very interesting to see how your idea went from concept to reality , with some amazing brainstorming from the staff at Alpkit to iron out problems , very impressive .
Big love for Alpkit here, I've got a bunch of the clothing and some of the equipment, I was actually in one of their stores today picking up a new cooking pot. I was even lucky enough to get one of the UK made bags for Christmas a couple of years ago and it's excellent.
I think this video is your best youtube work so far. Of course in theory your skills as a video editor and producer are ever increasing; but it was also great to see the collaboration with other people, how complimentary you are at all times of their work, and of course all of it masterfully narrated from a top quality written script (as we've come to expect from you at all times, and of course is part of a craft you've honed and developed for the longest time). You often sarcastically mock your video production and your viewers, saying that we will get enthralled by the marvellous experience of watching paint dry or whatever else; but I'll say this video was the most enthralling of all, from your well founded and explained demands and requirements, to the way you told the whole story visually and with the wordcraft we know you've mastered... I was truly enthralled the whole way. Thank you.
Probably a little off topic, but have you considered putting a chimney oven on the desil heater in allen? It would improve heat recovery from the eaxaust gas, and give an extra cooking option for the kitchen.
Have you checked with a Kayak manufacturer to see if you could use one of their ovens to help make the panels? You could then use a layer of Carbon-Carbon to gain much needed strength, while fully impregnating the fibres with your resin from the vacuum and curing process.
I've got a vacuum, and it's harder for DIYers to get oven-cure pre-preg with more than just carbon as an ingredient. A pure carbon panel would be too vulnerable to impact.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Check the model rocketry channels where they use Carbon-Carbon. It is extremely tough and durable according to several of the rocketry experts, it's comparable to steel without the weight, but it can be difficult to work with, which is why they use large curing ovens and the mylar vacuum bags.
Unidirectional carbon set at various orientations, and then cured with minimal resin, is indeed a remarkable material - strong, stiff and light. But the limitations still exist in terms of impact, abrasion, and mode of failure.
Hey Alex, I work in race car development and wat we use to get stiffness in our wings is a Aramis honeycomb structure, wich is way lighter per thinknes than foam and offers similar if not greater stiffness. I think this could be a solution to your wall problems.
Fantastic insight into how the pros do it! Now you mentioned you're 2nd favourite machine being the heming one but which one was your favorite? Would you be able to name the american supplier for you breathable nylon as well? Was it RSBTR by any chance? Looking for something similar and any quid ancestors would be much appreciated! Great video and thank you for taking the time and effort to make it! All the best 😄
Crazy idea. Could you bond some UHMW runners to the bottom of Alan, so he could be pulled by a snow cat like a sledge? Drive north at the end of freeze, cruise south in breakup.
Hum... guess I've got at least average loyalty, because I remember them from the sledge cover video! :) I am curious, though- how are you keeping the wind from just blowing through the joint between the box structure and the tarp?
@@AlexHibbertOriginals aren't the panels 50cm or so high? Does that mean that the fabric is almost reaching the ground or are you planning on making the snow mount maybe around 30cm high?
I must say it's great that a company is willing to work so closely with you. Maybe that's normal in this area of manufacturing, but I still find it great. And I also have one question: You said that the fabric is not waterproof (or rainproof? Maybe that's a difference?), anyways, is it really impossible that there will be water on top of the "tent"? I guess it won't be raining where you will go, but what about melting snow? When you use a stove inside the tent is that not enough to melt (some) snow on top of the "tent"? And now I thought about a second question :) What about air inlets? Don't you need some form of ventilation when using a stove inside the tent? I am really excited about this project. It's just such an interesting and unique idea
It certainly won't get rained on. For melting snow - not a major issue. You tend to bash any settling snow off the fly, but it won't settle much on this shape. Any that remains may melt if directly over a burning stove, but then the nature of the nylon will see it dry out in quick order. It won't pool. Internal moisture should pass through and escape much better than with silnylon tents. The tent isn't airtight, and we can vent the zips if needed. Cheers :)
Do you plan to attach tent poles and nylons to the panels so they can be pulled out of shape and folded up but not blow away? Really interested to see how the walls are going to be assembled.
No, the panels overlaps and connect to one another, have corner braces, and are pressed inward by the piled snow. Simple and quick. To avoid a blow away during handling, each has a hole in a corner and all can be karabinered together and to an anchor like a sledge.
I don't think solid rods will add much per gram added, but I have already added bamboo/lost core flat dowel to one edge, and then laminate-wrapped it, and this is pretty effective as the 'mini-core' adds stiffness.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals perhaps some way to add tension to the panels could help, intentionally bow them inwards or outwards after they are installed. Like an adjustable nylon strap with one end resined to the top of the panel and the other to the bottom, so they would bow the panel outwards when pulled tight, adding rigitity through tension. The ends may be looped and resined over the edge to reduce the chance of a strap pulling away. 2 -3 per panel, corner panels would need one less, or just the end not tightened to keep them all identical, with the rigidity coming from the 90 degree corner connection.
Why not try 2.5mm thick or thicker Corflute Sheets 2440mm X 1220mm X 2.5mm 300 GSM (grams per square metre). Basically it's a flat sheet of 2440mm long 2.5mm x 2.5mm enclosed square tubes all made out of recycled plastic. If you cut 2 pieces to glue together using resin & placed one piece with it's enclosed tubes going horizontal & the other going vertical then you'll find that they they'll be quite strong & even stronger after you put on your carbon fibre & other mat on the outside while still being slightly lightweight.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Is that 700g total for all the previous boards you were using before? It's a pity you can't sandwich a thin sheet bubblewrap between 2 sheets of corrugated carbon fibre in the shape of corrugated iron sheets with loads of tiny corrugations. It might sound insane but the carbon fibre in a corrugated form would give the most strength & the bubblewrap is only a lightweight cheap replacement for the honeycomb if you are trying to cut down the most amount of weight.
How many of thse fiberglass boards are you going to have to carry and how much will they weigh? If is going on a sled, why bother, just sleep in the sled with a light popup structure around you.
People have tried sleeper sledges before and they've always ended up being rather grim. The panel I'm trying to get as close too 600g each as possible.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Same as tents, most likely they gave up on them instead of taking the shortcommings and improving. Same as you are doing with the tent. The only problem with a sled tent is, you cant use the sled after the tent is set up.
Wow super fascinating I can’t wait to see the finished tent. I’m an old Appalachian Trail backpacker thru hiker so this has really peaked my interest. I have so many questions but I’ll keep quiet for now thanks
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These brilliant people acknowledged our hero's "logic."
Hey Alex, just an idea for the base boards, you can get a much higher stiffness in the large panels by casting them on a sheet with a repeating ridged pattern. You see it a lot with 3D printing to increase strength of thin parts. The pattern can be set on the surface you set the composite on when curing and will imprint the texture onto your parts. It would greatly increase part strength without adding weight. Hope this helps!
Worth serious thought. Thanks.
Exactly what I was about to suggest. Also if all the panels have the same pattern they can stack and minimize the size they take up while packed. Look into sheet metal fabrication as they have the same necessities of a lightweight thin material that needs high strength. They press and bend ridges and triangulated shapes into the metal to strengthen it while not adding any material.
@@CupolaDaze Good idea! I wonder if he could use a well-insulative spray on the outside to reduce the thermal transfer. It could be lightweight but help the side stay warm, which would be a problem with CF or metal builds.
I was thinking the same thing! Something like honeycomb panels would be great, and perhaps some carbon fiber stringers across the panel faces
Honeycomb is a common composite core, but possibly too fragile for this build. Carbon stringers/fillets, yes.
It worked for me. Treated myself to a new bivibag from Alpkit after the last video. I like supporting local manufacture. A couple of week to first adventures.
Very interesting to see how your idea went from concept to reality , with some amazing brainstorming from the staff at Alpkit to iron out problems , very impressive .
What if the real best tent is the friends we made along the way ♥
Always good to find a brand new episodes less than a minute old!😊
Big love for Alpkit here, I've got a bunch of the clothing and some of the equipment, I was actually in one of their stores today picking up a new cooking pot. I was even lucky enough to get one of the UK made bags for Christmas a couple of years ago and it's excellent.
When the tarp is done exploring the arctic, it's a proper winter tarp for your car :)
this tent will go up in flames
As opposed to all the other nylon tents that have not gone up in flames?
Cool project! I can't wait for your review!
I think this video is your best youtube work so far. Of course in theory your skills as a video editor and producer are ever increasing; but it was also great to see the collaboration with other people, how complimentary you are at all times of their work, and of course all of it masterfully narrated from a top quality written script (as we've come to expect from you at all times, and of course is part of a craft you've honed and developed for the longest time). You often sarcastically mock your video production and your viewers, saying that we will get enthralled by the marvellous experience of watching paint dry or whatever else; but I'll say this video was the most enthralling of all, from your well founded and explained demands and requirements, to the way you told the whole story visually and with the wordcraft we know you've mastered... I was truly enthralled the whole way.
Thank you.
You're too kind!
Plot twist - you're one of the two thumbs down this video has garnered.
Nice tent. There’s nothing that can beat the quality of a handmade tent. I love my Hilleburg Nallo 2GT … best tent I’ve ever owned!
Such a specific purpose, no wonder you needed to get it made!
That security team looked like you were about to get a gruff reminder to leave before closing...
Yeee my bouldering pad is from them
Probably a little off topic, but have you considered putting a chimney oven on the desil heater in allen? It would improve heat recovery from the eaxaust gas, and give an extra cooking option for the kitchen.
Of sorts, yes! Stay tuned.
Very interesting 👍👍
impressive idea 😲
Have you checked with a Kayak manufacturer to see if you could use one of their ovens to help make the panels? You could then use a layer of Carbon-Carbon to gain much needed strength, while fully impregnating the fibres with your resin from the vacuum and curing process.
I've got a vacuum, and it's harder for DIYers to get oven-cure pre-preg with more than just carbon as an ingredient. A pure carbon panel would be too vulnerable to impact.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Check the model rocketry channels where they use Carbon-Carbon. It is extremely tough and durable according to several of the rocketry experts, it's comparable to steel without the weight, but it can be difficult to work with, which is why they use large curing ovens and the mylar vacuum bags.
Unidirectional carbon set at various orientations, and then cured with minimal resin, is indeed a remarkable material - strong, stiff and light. But the limitations still exist in terms of impact, abrasion, and mode of failure.
Hey Alex, I work in race car development and wat we use to get stiffness in our wings is a Aramis honeycomb structure, wich is way lighter per thinknes than foam and offers similar if not greater stiffness.
I think this could be a solution to your wall problems.
Thanks - honeycomb is ace stuff for aero and auto, but the impact and general punishment might prove too much for those I've come across before.
As some one who has to make to due living outside just south of the arctic circle. Its crazy how behind the curve out gear is.
Fantastic insight into how the pros do it! Now you mentioned you're 2nd favourite machine being the heming one but which one was your favorite? Would you be able to name the american supplier for you breathable nylon as well? Was it RSBTR by any chance? Looking for something similar and any quid ancestors would be much appreciated! Great video and thank you for taking the time and effort to make it! All the best 😄
You got the correct US supplier! The favourite machine is in my first alpkit episode :)
Crazy idea.
Could you bond some UHMW runners to the bottom of Alan, so he could be pulled by a snow cat like a sledge? Drive north at the end of freeze, cruise south in breakup.
The guys up on the slope drag around much heavier things than Alan! 'Twould be easy.
So does Alan plan on having it's Barnacle Protection Paint yet. I assume because it was a rescue boat before it didn't have one.
Wrong playlist - but that's actually something I've been consulting on. Coppercoat vs anti-foul vs epoxy paint and regular jet washes.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Ok
Seems like an item he would do last so it would be perfect when he sets out.
Hum... guess I've got at least average loyalty, because I remember them from the sledge cover video! :)
I am curious, though- how are you keeping the wind from just blowing through the joint between the box structure and the tarp?
There's a significant overlap, and then the piled snow outside double covers the 'gap'.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals aren't the panels 50cm or so high?
Does that mean that the fabric is almost reaching the ground or are you planning on making the snow mount maybe around 30cm high?
They're 70cm high. Nope, the fabric won't touch the ground, but the overlap will be significant.
I must say it's great that a company is willing to work so closely with you.
Maybe that's normal in this area of manufacturing, but I still find it great.
And I also have one question:
You said that the fabric is not waterproof (or rainproof? Maybe that's a difference?), anyways, is it really impossible that there will be water on top of the "tent"?
I guess it won't be raining where you will go, but what about melting snow?
When you use a stove inside the tent is that not enough to melt (some) snow on top of the "tent"?
And now I thought about a second question :)
What about air inlets? Don't you need some form of ventilation when using a stove inside the tent?
I am really excited about this project. It's just such an interesting and unique idea
It certainly won't get rained on.
For melting snow - not a major issue. You tend to bash any settling snow off the fly, but it won't settle much on this shape. Any that remains may melt if directly over a burning stove, but then the nature of the nylon will see it dry out in quick order. It won't pool. Internal moisture should pass through and escape much better than with silnylon tents.
The tent isn't airtight, and we can vent the zips if needed.
Cheers :)
@@AlexHibbertOriginals thanks for answering my question 😀
Do you plan to attach tent poles and nylons to the panels so they can be pulled out of shape and folded up but not blow away? Really interested to see how the walls are going to be assembled.
No, the panels overlaps and connect to one another, have corner braces, and are pressed inward by the piled snow. Simple and quick. To avoid a blow away during handling, each has a hole in a corner and all can be karabinered together and to an anchor like a sledge.
Have you considered using carbon fiber rods sandwiched in the panels to increase stiffness?
I don't think solid rods will add much per gram added, but I have already added bamboo/lost core flat dowel to one edge, and then laminate-wrapped it, and this is pretty effective as the 'mini-core' adds stiffness.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals perhaps some way to add tension to the panels could help, intentionally bow them inwards or outwards after they are installed.
Like an adjustable nylon strap with one end resined to the top of the panel and the other to the bottom, so they would bow the panel outwards when pulled tight, adding rigitity through tension. The ends may be looped and resined over the edge to reduce the chance of a strap pulling away. 2 -3 per panel, corner panels would need one less, or just the end not tightened to keep them all identical, with the rigidity coming from the 90 degree corner connection.
Cheers - will have a think.
Why not try 2.5mm thick or thicker Corflute Sheets 2440mm X 1220mm X 2.5mm 300 GSM (grams per square metre). Basically it's a flat sheet of 2440mm long 2.5mm x 2.5mm enclosed square tubes all made out of recycled plastic. If you cut 2 pieces to glue together using resin & placed one piece with it's enclosed tubes going horizontal & the other going vertical then you'll find that they they'll be quite strong & even stronger after you put on your carbon fibre & other mat on the outside while still being slightly lightweight.
This would add massive amounts of weight. These panels weigh barely 700g.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Is that 700g total for all the previous boards you were using before? It's a pity you can't sandwich a thin sheet bubblewrap between 2 sheets of corrugated carbon fibre in the shape of corrugated iron sheets with loads of tiny corrugations. It might sound insane but the carbon fibre in a corrugated form would give the most strength & the bubblewrap is only a lightweight cheap replacement for the honeycomb if you are trying to cut down the most amount of weight.
necessity is the mother of invention, but in your circumstances need begets shelter via invention.
How many of thse fiberglass boards are you going to have to carry and how much will they weigh? If is going on a sled, why bother, just sleep in the sled with a light popup structure around you.
People have tried sleeper sledges before and they've always ended up being rather grim.
The panel I'm trying to get as close too 600g each as possible.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Same as tents, most likely they gave up on them instead of taking the shortcommings and improving. Same as you are doing with the tent. The only problem with a sled tent is, you cant use the sled after the tent is set up.
@MikePatey Any ideas? Collab opportunity?
the red tent? RIP Umberto Nobile & his crew ua-cam.com/video/NovoRWvzDCg/v-deo.html
I reacted to the test version, sorry for premature commenting
You're not the first!
Wow super fascinating I can’t wait to see the finished tent. I’m an old Appalachian Trail backpacker thru hiker so this has really peaked my interest. I have so many questions but I’ll keep quiet for now thanks