As a Subaru owner and knowing people who drive these, the first thing I said out loud when watching was 'it's gotta be the MAF sensor'. Glad you got it sorted! Now to get those Outback wheels mounted, that space saver deserves to be put out of its misery!
Don't sell your wrenching skills short. It's all good experience, and still more than 90% of car owners would attempt. I wouldn't even worry about the extra parts; just think of it as crossing future potential failures off the list.
When I had my Legacy I was plagued by an EGR code. It would come and go at random, and everything with the EGR itself checked out. The CEL had been off for several days so I decided to chance it and take it to get emissions tested. IT PASSED!!!! Then, on the way out of the parking lot, the CEL came back on. Oh well! I have two years now to figure it out!!
All the parts thrown at it were all likely needed as part of routine maintenance, save the MAF sensor. But with the mileage & no records, the MAF at this point could be considered routine. It is a great win! Definitely get all the tires to match exactly. All wheel drive systems don't allow for mismatches. It will damage the drive line & develop a vibration noticed especially when turning tightly in parking lots. The Subaru manual tells owners to pull the relay for the AWD system when using the temporary spare tire. - 1997 Subaru SVX
As I stated in your last video, I had a 1999 one of these. What I discovered (the hard way) is that this car has two air filters. The second one is in that black box on top of the motor that the MAF sensor leads to. Mines had deteriorated to the point that it was crumbling into pieces as I took it out. You may wanna look at it. Also, if you have an oil leak and smoking, it's your valve cover gaskets. When they fail, they will leak oil directly onto your exhaust manifold.
In the future you gotta get you an ohm meter so you can test the ohms of each sensor to see if they're in range or not. I used to fire the parts cannon at a lot of my old clunkers too till I learned how to diagnose certain electrical systems using that reader, doesn't work 100% of the time but it'll help save money for sure!
It's honestly funny to me how he says he's a terrible mechanic and yet does a very decent job taking things apart to replace parts when there are people out there that can't even change a tire
If your code reader can display engine data, the MAF should read close to the engine displacement in grams per second (in this case: 2.2 grams per second) at idle.
Just a few more miles than my '07 Legacy. At 170k, with a second set of leaking head gaskets, rotted exhaust, shot control arms, and some other issues I think I'm about ready to say farewell to the 'ol Subaru!
The old style Subaru fuel filter is such a joy. I actually take those brackets out of any Subaru I scrap to use in future projects or adapt newer cars to the old style filter. "Every single one of my cars is a piece of sh**!" Totally relatable. I am slightly surprised it was the MAF, but I def would have bet it wasn't anything else you replaced. If you have any issues with that MAF, I recommend getting a used OEM unit on eBay. I don't really trust the aftermarket units. Notice how easy everything was to fix? Glad you got it going good! Value goes up with a passed Smog test too. I don't think I would have the heart to cut that car up personally. Hope you have fun with it!
As soon as you started I as well was saying clean the MAF. The fuel trim was how it was because the maf wasn't seeing all the air go by because of dirt. Any time the battery gets disconnected for more than 20 min it resets learning and forgets about the dirty maf sensor and thinks it's brand new.
Next time you have stalling problems try cleaning or replacing the Idle Speed Control Valve. Replacing it is the better option. When you first start your car or you are at the traffic lights or when you are decelerating, your throttle valve is in the closed position. The engine still needs to get its air from somewhere. The throttle sensor sends the ECU a signal telling it that it is fully closed and the ECU sends the ISCV sensor a signal to open the valve and let in more air. Now, if the ISCV is faulty or the ISCV valve is dirty and has difficulty opening/closing then that will affect the air/fuel mixture. Too much fuel and not enough air. As a result the engine stalls because the air/fuel mixture won't ignite. Not enough oxygen in the air/fuel mixture. Remember these new cars are not like the old cars: when you step on the accelerator you are actually opening the throttle valve and letting more air going into the intake manifold. When you stepped on the accelerator of the old cars you were pumping more petrol into the intake manifold.
I had a old Mazda that kept on stalling when warm...I thought it was the fuel pump or the MAF sensor, but turned out that it was the Crankshaft position sensor ( a 5 minute fix on my old Mazda Protege...which I sold at 310K miles...lol )
You could call it the Green Meanie... Overall I'd say it's worth the time and money you put into it. You'd have paid a lot more than what you spent on parts with a private party sale and probably still had to fix stuff, so I'd say you came out on top. My 08 xB is a work in progress. It's gonna be getting some fancy new headlight assemblies soon, after that, a new rear bumper cover (ran over a blown out tire and cracked it) and LED brake/tail lights, license plate light, and reverse light. I've got a lot of other mods I'd like to do under the hood too. Luckily, VA doesn't have smog check. They just make sure you don't have any exhaust leaks.
ive had similar symptom, retiming and adjusting the throttle back to manufactures spec did the trick for me, throttle idle speed and timing should be looked at every 2 years at least
Aw man, you must on a first name basis with your auto parts store and smog station! I dont think any of this work was wasted, odds are all those parts needed replaced anyways (or would need it soon).
NGK for Subaru is a no brainer. The old cars with a single coil pack SHOULD use double platinum or laser iridium, or the new Ruthenium even. I've run single platinum countless times though and had no issues. They just won't last quite as long. Never nickel (copper) plugs though. Just no point.
I had a boss who bought one of those new in silver with the 4spd auto - it was kinda all the bad bits of the legacy platform, not the wagon, bad transmission, less ground clearance, etc. Certainly functional, but less useful than the outback.
Stalling problems. . . Been there, done that. My 1992 F150 (Which is very similar to yours except its only a regular cab) sometimes likes to stall but only when I have the air conditioning on. I've replaced so many parts chasing down the problem. Now I've pretty much just come to accept it as a "feature, not a flaw". And I know then when I have the a/c on I either shut it off before coming to a stop or tap the gas pedal a couple of times before stopping.
I would clean the throttle body and check of it isn't the idle air control valve. Definitely hot the maf with some sensor clean and run high octane with seafood and Lucas injector cleaner. The cat could be kind of choked out too. Fortunately these rigs are so easy to work on
@@HelloRoad Keep trying bro! Those things rock! And they're getting very hard to find, and the ones that are left are expensive. In Europe you could get the GM Dustbuster vans with a Quad 4 and a 5 speed manual, booyah!
Haha, after you changed the 02 sensor I was just thinking "if that doesn't work, push the car off a cliff" and then two seconds later, you said the exact same thing, lol!
Fact: Before you let them perform the smog, always ask them, “Is the car is ready to smog? Are the readiness monitors clear?” f you ask first, they will NOT be able to charge you if the monitors are not clear. They do it first off anyway. They can fail you and charge you UNLESS you ask first. Not only do they make a lot of money by failing you, but more of a concern to them is if they didn’t fail everybody who’s monitors weren’t clear, their statistics would make them suspect and they would get audited by the State of California, and they could be fined. The State of California sends in cars all the time to check the smog stations to make sure they’re following the rules. For all they know you were from the State of California. You can also look up any cars CA smog history on the Bureau Ave Automotive repairs Another tip is to stop by the AutoZone or O’Reilly‘s and have them check the car with their code reader to make sure your car is ready to be smog before you go to the smog station. Also you want to drive your car for at least half an hour and lots of stop start cycles and on the highway before going in because it burns fuel better and has a higher chance of passing smog if it’s at full operational temperatures. Also, the Evap sensor for the readiness monitor is usually the last one to set. Per California law you are allowed to have one open readiness monitor and it’s the evaporator monitor. You can literally drive the car for hundreds of miles before the evap sensor resets. So you do not technically need all of the monitors to clear to pass smog
Excellent job, Ethan! That had to be a real pain to get that figured out! You are a braver person than I, sir! BTW, if you're in an automotive masochistic mood(when are people like us not!🤣🤣🤣), I do have a 95 Camaro 3.4L V6 that I'm selling here in Jersey. I'm hoping to put the review of it up on my channel this week 🤞 (Could really use the money, tbh...help!🙏)Keep up the good work, brother! Oh! Make sure you have the head gaskets checked, as those old Subie engines like to blow them. Rock on, Ethan!🤘🤘🤘
As for naming the car, I still stand by the name I suggested in the comments of the last video, before you even mentioned naming it, call it the Poobaru II, FTW! 🤣
Ethan: yaay i got a free subaru. (1000 dollars on parts later) hhmm it should work now. hehe love your amature tinkering, i would have done it the same way though. replacing sparkplugs and cables on old cars is always a good thing anyway, officially sparkplugs should be replaced every two years or 60/80k miles and cables every 5/6 years orso. hope it wont stall anymore, good look with the off road project.
As subaru owner for 10 years, and over 50 subarus : Bosch plugs , very bad, wont last long and causes problems. Same for cables. only NGK will work properly. Same for o2 sensor, anything beside a genuine new one, wont work well.
I remember having an issue with the readiness check on my old Oldsmobile. I kept having a check engine light and clearing it would reset the monitor. I remember spending all day for two days driving hundreds of miles until I finally got it to pass. I also remember going through 3 different MAF sensors before I found one that would stop tripping codes and stop it from stalling (that was actually.a separate issue from the emissions test...actually might have been my other old Oldsmobile).
At least you can get parts for that car, try having a 87 MR2..... Damn near impossible to find parts, luckily the parts for a AE86 work for MR2......... sometimes lol 😆 Definitely love this channel!!
What did this video prove? It proved that smog checks hurt the poor and working class more. Also, it's a flat 4 engine meaning those spark plugs are a sign that both valve covers need to be replaced. The MAF needed more cleaning and drying but a new one was faster
Would this happen on a 2103?? Mine sometimes shuts off after i turn it on then as im stopped and go to take off, it feels like it wants to turn off.. kind of like those cars that turn off to save fuel, while stopped.
Does bad battery make it stall ? My one stalls at stop always morning restart fine after drive while no problem! No code. Cleaned srottle does not help. Anyone knows what happen?
Those are all general maintenance parts and not that expensive, but aftermarket parts for a Subaru from a local autoparts store are iffy. You should have watched some UA-cam videos to zero in on the problem right away.
What should I name this problematic Subaru Legacy project???
Poobaru V2 is a good name for it
@@jonathanmagness5370 Poobaru Too
As you'll be lifting it...Up-baru!
Or if you're a Star Wars fan, and this character ends up crispy-fried in the sun...
"AuntBaru"
Subaru V2baru.
Debbie.
As a Subaru owner and knowing people who drive these, the first thing I said out loud when watching was 'it's gotta be the MAF sensor'. Glad you got it sorted! Now to get those Outback wheels mounted, that space saver deserves to be put out of its misery!
seems im on the right track. mine dies after about 20-30 min and wont restart for 20-30min. seems the MAF is the #1 fix for that. got one on the way
Don't sell your wrenching skills short. It's all good experience, and still more than 90% of car owners would attempt. I wouldn't even worry about the extra parts; just think of it as crossing future potential failures off the list.
When I had my Legacy I was plagued by an EGR code. It would come and go at random, and everything with the EGR itself checked out. The CEL had been off for several days so I decided to chance it and take it to get emissions tested. IT PASSED!!!! Then, on the way out of the parking lot, the CEL came back on. Oh well! I have two years now to figure it out!!
There is a recall on that I just checked. It's a defect in the part.
Relatable 😊😊😊
All the parts thrown at it were all likely needed as part of routine maintenance, save the MAF sensor. But with the mileage & no records, the MAF at this point could be considered routine. It is a great win!
Definitely get all the tires to match exactly. All wheel drive systems don't allow for mismatches. It will damage the drive line & develop a vibration noticed especially when turning tightly in parking lots.
The Subaru manual tells owners to pull the relay for the AWD system when using the temporary spare tire.
- 1997 Subaru SVX
Doesn't Scotty always say pour some fuel injector cleaner in?
Thank you.....I did not know this.
See..learn something today thank you I didn't know that info 😊😊
As I stated in your last video, I had a 1999 one of these. What I discovered (the hard way) is that this car has two air filters. The second one is in that black box on top of the motor that the MAF sensor leads to. Mines had deteriorated to the point that it was crumbling into pieces as I took it out. You may wanna look at it. Also, if you have an oil leak and smoking, it's your valve cover gaskets. When they fail, they will leak oil directly onto your exhaust manifold.
Holy crap man thanks for that info
I can confirm that a leaking legacy from this era is always the valve cover gaskets.
99 was the only year with 2 air filters like that. He has a completely different upper air box than yours.
In the future you gotta get you an ohm meter so you can test the ohms of each sensor to see if they're in range or not. I used to fire the parts cannon at a lot of my old clunkers too till I learned how to diagnose certain electrical systems using that reader, doesn't work 100% of the time but it'll help save money for sure!
Hey its you!
It's honestly funny to me how he says he's a terrible mechanic and yet does a very decent job taking things apart to replace parts when there are people out there that can't even change a tire
Yeah, he's a very modest (and likeable) guy!
🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗
There are machanics that are worse. ✌️🤣👍
Congratulations Ethan time and money is all you need, can't wait too see it off-road trails
I would love to see a collab between you and Regular Car Reviews
If your code reader can display engine data, the MAF should read close to the engine displacement in grams per second (in this case: 2.2 grams per second) at idle.
Just a few more miles than my '07 Legacy. At 170k, with a second set of leaking head gaskets, rotted exhaust, shot control arms, and some other issues I think I'm about ready to say farewell to the 'ol Subaru!
The old style Subaru fuel filter is such a joy. I actually take those brackets out of any Subaru I scrap to use in future projects or adapt newer cars to the old style filter.
"Every single one of my cars is a piece of sh**!" Totally relatable. I am slightly surprised it was the MAF, but I def would have bet it wasn't anything else you replaced.
If you have any issues with that MAF, I recommend getting a used OEM unit on eBay. I don't really trust the aftermarket units. Notice how easy everything was to fix?
Glad you got it going good! Value goes up with a passed Smog test too. I don't think I would have the heart to cut that car up personally. Hope you have fun with it!
As soon as you started I as well was saying clean the MAF. The fuel trim was how it was because the maf wasn't seeing all the air go by because of dirt. Any time the battery gets disconnected for more than 20 min it resets learning and forgets about the dirty maf sensor and thinks it's brand new.
Next time you have stalling problems try cleaning or replacing the Idle Speed Control Valve. Replacing it is the better option.
When you first start your car or you are at the traffic lights or when you are decelerating, your throttle valve is in the closed position. The engine still needs to get its air from somewhere. The throttle sensor sends the ECU a signal telling it that it is fully closed and the ECU sends the ISCV sensor a signal to open the valve and let in more air. Now, if the ISCV is faulty or the ISCV valve is dirty and has difficulty opening/closing then that will affect the air/fuel mixture. Too much fuel and not enough air. As a result the engine stalls because the air/fuel mixture won't ignite. Not enough oxygen in the air/fuel mixture. Remember these new cars are not like the old cars: when you step on the accelerator you are actually opening the throttle valve and letting more air going into the intake manifold. When you stepped on the accelerator of the old cars you were pumping more petrol into the intake manifold.
I had a old Mazda that kept on stalling when warm...I thought it was the fuel pump or the MAF sensor, but turned out that it was the Crankshaft position sensor ( a 5 minute fix on my old Mazda Protege...which I sold at 310K miles...lol )
You could call it the Green Meanie... Overall I'd say it's worth the time and money you put into it. You'd have paid a lot more than what you spent on parts with a private party sale and probably still had to fix stuff, so I'd say you came out on top. My 08 xB is a work in progress. It's gonna be getting some fancy new headlight assemblies soon, after that, a new rear bumper cover (ran over a blown out tire and cracked it) and LED brake/tail lights, license plate light, and reverse light. I've got a lot of other mods I'd like to do under the hood too. Luckily, VA doesn't have smog check. They just make sure you don't have any exhaust leaks.
5:15 Every single one of my car is a piece of sh*t. Sounds like a fun day.... :D
Good job. I’m surprised that it was the MAF sensor. I was betting on the fuel pump. How about Two-baru?
A+ integration of the impact wrench sound and the music.
😀😀😀
ive had similar symptom, retiming and adjusting the throttle back to manufactures spec did the trick for me, throttle idle speed and timing should be looked at every 2 years at least
Aw man, you must on a first name basis with your auto parts store and smog station!
I dont think any of this work was wasted, odds are all those parts needed replaced anyways (or would need it soon).
I always go with NTK/NGK or Denso for Asian vehicles when it comes to plugs, sensors, etc.
NGK for Subaru is a no brainer. The old cars with a single coil pack SHOULD use double platinum or laser iridium, or the new Ruthenium even. I've run single platinum countless times though and had no issues. They just won't last quite as long. Never nickel (copper) plugs though. Just no point.
NGK is the mother’s milk of spark plugs on subaru’s, that’s confirmed.
Haven't finished yet but you should check all the electronic sensors like crankshaft position, MAF, throttle position.
I had a boss who bought one of those new in silver with the 4spd auto - it was kinda all the bad bits of the legacy platform, not the wagon, bad transmission, less ground clearance, etc. Certainly functional, but less useful than the outback.
Stalling problems. . . Been there, done that. My 1992 F150 (Which is very similar to yours except its only a regular cab) sometimes likes to stall but only when I have the air conditioning on. I've replaced so many parts chasing down the problem. Now I've pretty much just come to accept it as a "feature, not a flaw". And I know then when I have the a/c on I either shut it off before coming to a stop or tap the gas pedal a couple of times before stopping.
Or I may just let it stall at the light and think of it as an early stop/start feature.
I would clean the throttle body and check of it isn't the idle air control valve. Definitely hot the maf with some sensor clean and run high octane with seafood and Lucas injector cleaner. The cat could be kind of choked out too. Fortunately these rigs are so easy to work on
Yay!
It’s a love/hate relationship with the pets cannon. Usually hate bc it rarely works out for me.
But I’m glad you fix it! Yay!
What? No vintage Dust Buster?
There is one in my neighborhood but I can't get them to sell it to me
@@HelloRoad Keep trying bro! Those things rock! And they're getting very hard to find, and the ones that are left are expensive. In Europe you could get the GM Dustbuster vans with a Quad 4 and a 5 speed manual, booyah!
Glad you got it running
Haha, after you changed the 02 sensor I was just thinking "if that doesn't work, push the car off a cliff" and then two seconds later, you said the exact same thing, lol!
Fact: Before you let them perform the smog, always ask them, “Is the car is ready to smog? Are the readiness monitors clear?” f you ask first, they will NOT be able to charge you if the monitors are not clear. They do it first off anyway. They can fail you and charge you UNLESS you ask first.
Not only do they make a lot of money by failing you, but more of a concern to them is if they didn’t fail everybody who’s monitors weren’t clear, their statistics would make them suspect and they would get audited by the State of California, and they could be fined. The State of California sends in cars all the time to check the smog stations to make sure they’re following the rules. For all they know you were from the State of California. You can also look up any cars CA smog history on the Bureau Ave Automotive repairs
Another tip is to stop by the AutoZone or O’Reilly‘s and have them check the car with their code reader to make sure your car is ready to be smog before you go to the smog station.
Also you want to drive your car for at least half an hour and lots of stop start cycles and on the highway before going in because it burns fuel better and has a higher chance of passing smog if it’s at full operational temperatures.
Also, the Evap sensor for the readiness monitor is usually the last one to set. Per California law you are allowed to have one open readiness monitor and it’s the evaporator monitor. You can literally drive the car for hundreds of miles before the evap sensor resets. So you do not technically need all of the monitors to clear to pass smog
Honestly you could get some nice rims and maybe a jdm grille/bumper swap to make this car look fantastic
Excellent job, Ethan! That had to be a real pain to get that figured out! You are a braver person than I, sir! BTW, if you're in an automotive masochistic mood(when are people like us not!🤣🤣🤣), I do have a 95 Camaro 3.4L V6 that I'm selling here in Jersey. I'm hoping to put the review of it up on my channel this week 🤞 (Could really use the money, tbh...help!🙏)Keep up the good work, brother! Oh! Make sure you have the head gaskets checked, as those old Subie engines like to blow them. Rock on, Ethan!🤘🤘🤘
Poobaru 2: Electric issues
I called it first in the comments of the last video! Poobaru II haha! 🤣
As for naming the car, I still stand by the name I suggested in the comments of the last video, before you even mentioned naming it, call it the Poobaru II, FTW! 🤣
Ethan: yaay i got a free subaru. (1000 dollars on parts later) hhmm it should work now. hehe love your amature tinkering, i would have done it the same way though. replacing sparkplugs and cables on old cars is always a good thing anyway, officially sparkplugs should be replaced every two years or 60/80k miles and cables every 5/6 years orso. hope it wont stall anymore, good look with the off road project.
Subaru would make an amazing Gambler 500 vehicle. Do a cool 90's paint job with a rattle can and send it
A camouflage rattle can paint job for the win!
Won't be buying from you. 🙃
Love the video man! not enough videos about legacy and the ej22, i love working on mine, tyhe best car for mechanics!!
Thanks so much!! More vids on this machine coming soon :)
How about the “Emerald Le-Gacy”!!….eh…eh!!
As subaru owner for 10 years, and over 50 subarus : Bosch plugs , very bad, wont last long and causes problems. Same for cables. only NGK will work properly. Same for o2 sensor, anything beside a genuine new one, wont work well.
I remember having an issue with the readiness check on my old Oldsmobile. I kept having a check engine light and clearing it would reset the monitor. I remember spending all day for two days driving hundreds of miles until I finally got it to pass. I also remember going through 3 different MAF sensors before I found one that would stop tripping codes and stop it from stalling (that was actually.a separate issue from the emissions test...actually might have been my other old Oldsmobile).
There were recalls on this
Parts cannon for the win!
Haha yep!
At least you can get parts for that car, try having a 87 MR2..... Damn near impossible to find parts, luckily the parts for a AE86 work for MR2......... sometimes lol 😆
Definitely love this channel!!
Ever get that sense of Deja Vu like you've seen this video before? Maybe it was a patreon thing.
Hahaha! :) :)
Feels like I've seen this story before...👀
The Leg Spreadin' Legacy sounds like a perfect name 😂
🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
@@HelloRoad the name alone turns heads 🤣😂
What did this video prove? It proved that smog checks hurt the poor and working class more.
Also, it's a flat 4 engine meaning those spark plugs are a sign that both valve covers need to be replaced. The MAF needed more cleaning and drying but a new one was faster
You should name it Lightning Buristio
Louie call the Subie Louie
You should call her “Cliff”ord the Subaru lol great video, I hear people using WD-40 to clean the map sensor before.
Of course! Great chatting with you as well!! :) :)
Actually, negative 20 percent fuel correction tells you it's rich by 20 percent, not lean. 99percent of the time this is a bad MAF.
Lacy the Legacy
I have a friend in LA who takes his old truck to a place where if he accidently leaves a $50 bill on the front seat, it always passes smog.
Don't you hate when you become buddy's with a older car!
Hahaha
Id guess the IAC after tune up stuff
Would this happen on a 2103?? Mine sometimes shuts off after i turn it on then as im stopped and go to take off, it feels like it wants to turn off.. kind of like those cars that turn off to save fuel, while stopped.
Legacy.... stall for all season!
I've got a bunch of free subie parts for you Ethan
Oooooh nice!! I'll take 'em!!!
Amazing Stuff
You needed a fuel pressure regulator, not an oxygen sensor
It ended up being the MAF.
donut media ahhh intro
It's a Subaru, of COURSE you can!!!! Now, if it were a GM product.........& no, the TC Nova doesn't count.
So wait... you're turning it into a Legacy SUS? (Sport Utility Sedan)
Haha yeah pretty much!!
Man you should never drop/throw spark plugs 😀
I would've dropped them by accident anyway 😆
Lega-seedy. 😀
That is just crazy
que paragolpes y lip delantero tiene el subaru?
Where is the rest of the videos?? This was 2 years ago....we nedled updates. Ps...clean your throttle body.
My brother in law needed a car so I fixed this up and gave it to him
It has lots of recalls
Name it "Legs."
Does bad battery make it stall ?
My one stalls at stop always morning restart fine after drive while no problem! No code. Cleaned srottle does not help. Anyone knows what happen?
my subaru is stalling the same way. when cold and at stops ???
@@bristontrapp3006 yes that's so annoying. Went to see mechanic he has no clue.
Nice 😀
Those are all general maintenance parts and not that expensive, but aftermarket parts for a Subaru from a local autoparts store are iffy. You should have watched some UA-cam videos to zero in on the problem right away.
What... You live 10 minutes from a parts store? How convenient...
Haha it's a bit further than that. Just couldn't find a Spongebob title card that said 45 minutes :) :)
@@HelloRoad I will not tell anyone... I promise... :)
Map sensor
That’s what it ended up being
Name it John Wayne Legacy
PooBaru Lagacy