Basically just did the same procedure instead replaced the control arm as it was rusted through the bottom. Advisement was to torque when under load so i placed jack under control arm and raised until it started to lift off jack stand, then torqued away.
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 basically you're not supposed to torque bushings/suspension parts when they're not under load because when you lower the vehicle now, you can twist/rip the bushing because it's not properly loaded. He used the jack to preload the control arm and torque it. Thanks for this video though, I'll be needing to replace my lca's as they're rusted too, this was a good refresher.
Just when I was thinking on replacing my coils your video pops out, appreciate it very much. How do you adjust the camber and toe? Will you be making a video in the future about that?
For any alignment related work I take it into a professional shop and I also advise other to do so as well. I recall there being a camber bolt on the rear lateral arm but I’ve never looked into it. Unfortunately I will not be doing an alignment video any time soon as I don’t have the equipment to do so. Sorry I couldn’t assist more but I hope you still like and subscribe for my many other videos. And thanks so much for watching.
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 thanks for the advice I will be taking mine to a shop then. Yeah I was looking into it seems I need to buy an alignment nut. And no worries your content is great I'll keep on watching, you got a fan
Ya I’ve seen you can put those in the front struts for quick camber adjustments. Never used them or got into the alignment diy thing. Improper alignment causes stress on suspension. Thanks for the positive feedback. Always glad to chat with the fans.
Very nice how to vid, thank you. What made you decide to replace the rear coli springs? Also, did you decide not to do the rear shocks because they had already been done previously?
I had the vehicle inspected by a mechanic for a front end issue and during the inspection he noted that the springs were severely worn out. The appearance is very rusted as well and the outer coating was flaking off. Plus the back end is very wobbly. Now it’s nice and firm. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
I got mine from Amazon. Part number is 81387. New springs will always appear longer as the original ones have been compressed for many years. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
Funny I just did mine before your video and was thinking why doesn’t he have one yet. They went in but I hear more creaks then I used to over certain bumps. Any advice?
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 yes definitely coming from the back. The one coil insulator didn’t come out. I just slide in place so that could be bad or I’ll have to check the bushing on lower control arm.
Yea I did. You need one after this service as new springs may give slightly higher ride hight and will change the angles of the back end. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
try a gear puller to press them out. Here is the link to a video where I did it on a front control arm: ua-cam.com/video/H1DeDgtzdpw/v-deo.html Should work the same. To give you an idea of how easy it was, when I filmed that video I had torn shoulder tendons and lost most of the mobility in my shoulder but they came out easy. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
AllData calls for 11ft lbs on the sway bar link nut and 115 ft lbs on the lower control arm to knuckle bolt for torque values. I think that going to 130 ft lbs is going to stress the sway bar bolt too much.
@jompetrecca1943 if you trust Alldata as a reputable source then that’s up to you. I have personally always used Haynes manuals for all my vehicles and I have never had issues with under or over torquing bolts. The torque values I provide in my videos are from Haynes, which I have always trusted. I’m not saying you are wrong. But I personally put my bolts to 132 with no issue. I wouldn’t trust 111 lbs. thanks for sharing and be safe.
The back felt too sloppy going over bumps and turning corners. But mostly it was the visual inspection that showed extreme rust and peeling on the old springs. Visually it was just so clear they needed changing. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
Basically just did the same procedure instead replaced the control arm as it was rusted through the bottom. Advisement was to torque when under load so i placed jack under control arm and raised until it started to lift off jack stand, then torqued away.
I don’t understand your comment. Can you edit it so it makes sense in a proper sentence please.
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 basically you're not supposed to torque bushings/suspension parts when they're not under load because when you lower the vehicle now, you can twist/rip the bushing because it's not properly loaded. He used the jack to preload the control arm and torque it. Thanks for this video though, I'll be needing to replace my lca's as they're rusted too, this was a good refresher.
Just when I was thinking on replacing my coils your video pops out, appreciate it very much. How do you adjust the camber and toe? Will you be making a video in the future about that?
For any alignment related work I take it into a professional shop and I also advise other to do so as well. I recall there being a camber bolt on the rear lateral arm but I’ve never looked into it. Unfortunately I will not be doing an alignment video any time soon as I don’t have the equipment to do so. Sorry I couldn’t assist more but I hope you still like and subscribe for my many other videos. And thanks so much for watching.
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 thanks for the advice I will be taking mine to a shop then. Yeah I was looking into it seems I need to buy an alignment nut.
And no worries your content is great I'll keep on watching, you got a fan
Ya I’ve seen you can put those in the front struts for quick camber adjustments. Never used them or got into the alignment diy thing. Improper alignment causes stress on suspension. Thanks for the positive feedback. Always glad to chat with the fans.
Video was excellent!!! Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
Very nice how to vid, thank you. What made you decide to replace the rear coli springs? Also, did you decide not to do the rear shocks because they had already been done previously?
I had the vehicle inspected by a mechanic for a front end issue and during the inspection he noted that the springs were severely worn out. The appearance is very rusted as well and the outer coating was flaking off. Plus the back end is very wobbly. Now it’s nice and firm. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
What is the piece called that the jounce bumper screws to? Both mine broke off! Please Help!!
Can this tutorial be used for 2014 gmc terrain also
Yes all 2010-17 terrains and equinoxs follow this procedure. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
Where did you get the springs from and are they bigger in size ? Thanks. I ordered some moog but the appeard to be bigger .
I got mine from Amazon. Part number is 81387. New springs will always appear longer as the original ones have been compressed for many years. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
Funny I just did mine before your video and was thinking why doesn’t he have one yet. They went in but I hear more creaks then I used to over certain bumps. Any advice?
How was the condition of your coil insulators? I’m assuming the creak is from the back? Are your lower control arm bushings in bad shape?
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 yes definitely coming from the back. The one coil insulator didn’t come out. I just slide in place so that could be bad or I’ll have to check the bushing on lower control arm.
Ya my insulator has a hole in the bottom one. That can cause a metallic groaning because the spring is rubbing metal. Most likely the culprit.
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 I’ll probably just get new insulators. Not hard to take apart again.
Please keep us posted with the results.
Did you get a rear wheel alignment after replacing the springs?
Yea I did. You need one after this service as new springs may give slightly higher ride hight and will change the angles of the back end. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
How hard to replace the bushings on that rear control arm ?
try a gear puller to press them out. Here is the link to a video where I did it on a front control arm:
ua-cam.com/video/H1DeDgtzdpw/v-deo.html
Should work the same. To give you an idea of how easy it was, when I filmed that video I had torn shoulder tendons and lost most of the mobility in my shoulder but they came out easy. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
That bottom nut on the sway bar link . . . Does it really get torqued to 130 ft lbs ???
The Haynes manual torque specs call for 132 foot pounds. Seems extreme but that’s what they call for. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
AllData calls for 11ft lbs on the sway bar link nut and 115 ft lbs on the lower control arm to knuckle bolt for torque values. I think that going to 130 ft lbs is going to stress the sway bar bolt too much.
@jompetrecca1943 if you trust Alldata as a reputable source then that’s up to you. I have personally always used Haynes manuals for all my vehicles and I have never had issues with under or over torquing bolts. The torque values I provide in my videos are from Haynes, which I have always trusted. I’m not saying you are wrong. But I personally put my bolts to 132 with no issue. I wouldn’t trust 111 lbs. thanks for sharing and be safe.
What symptoms were you experiencing that indicated they needed to be replaced ?
The back felt too sloppy going over bumps and turning corners. But mostly it was the visual inspection that showed extreme rust and peeling on the old springs. Visually it was just so clear they needed changing. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
Were they making any noises ?
There was no noise present. Just sagging and the visual appearance screamed for them to be replaced.
Helpful, thanks.
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe