Thanks! This tip saved me both time and money; I didn't have to go out and purchase a new blade. Fortunately, I had a dual grit rubbing stone to dress the blade. I believe the backer mesh on the mosaic tile I was cutting was clogging the blade edge. After a few cuts into the rubbing stone, the blade cut through my porcelain tile significantly faster. Yay!
In addition to Sal's good information - I've found that (prior to using a dressing stone as shown in the video) that making a couple of *DRY* (i.e., no water) short straight cuts (an inch or so long) using a scrap piece of porcelain tile will wear away the substrate metal in the blade and quickly reveal a fresh set of diamonds thus restoring the cutting surface to the blade. When you do this, you'll actually see some small sparks coming off the blade and you'll know you're removing a thin layer of the native steel substrate in the blade. Follow this up with the dressing stone (with water) as shown in the video to polish up the blade a bit. I find you don't need to use the dressing stone nearly as much using this approach (thus prolonging the life of your dressing stone). Also, for really nice smooth cuts on porcelain with minimal chipping, use a continuous rim blade on your saw (i.e., not a segmented blade as shown in this video -- while a segmented blade will cut faster, it also tends to cause more chipping of the highly brittle porcelain coating.
Good vid. Often overlooked since people dont realize that diamond blades get caked with tile residue. I do this every few dozen cuts. Takes no time and keeps the cuts nice.
Good advice, I been in the tile setting for 50+ years. One thing that was not mentioned is using the proper blade for the proper material. What might sound backwards is that the harder the material (Granite, Porcelain) the softer the blade needs to be, and the softer the material (white body tile limestone, and marble) the harder the blade. The reason being is in order for the blade to cut the matrix needs to be broken down to expose new diamond. A hard blade matrix cutting a hard material doesn't break down to expose new diamonds and vice versa. Mate your blade to the material you are cutting and it will cut down on the glazing problem
Sal your the best installer of tile in North America that's unbelievable !!!!! I have not seen anyone install tile the way you do ,you should make some music videos
Thank you, Sal!! Signed up and will look through your videos on how to cut a baby circle 3” on porcelain to fit around the metal decorative flange at the end of the waterline....urrrr, tried and failed! Cool on how to bring back your diamond blade like new, will go order an dressing stone....35 years on tile, OMG, how are your knees?! This is HARD work!
Well done videos, straight and to the point like all you have made. Still watching them and thank you for making them! Sal, question: Which 7" blade would you recommend I purchase for chip free, clean cuts on 9mm thick 12 x 24 porcelain polished tile?? I have a small table top wet blade saw but looking to purchase an entry level (overhead) wet saw with stand for a small job to better handle the large format tile.
Thanks for video. Why is my new and expensive blade chipping the tile on one side??? Its only a Ridgid blade but its the top Ridgid.. The tile is cheap but I was getting decent cuts with cheaper blade that came with the saw. I wonder if I am going too slow?? Rest of shower project going well thanks to your videos.
Keep as much clean water as possible on the blade is a big help. I've also use the dressing stone and rub stone, the best way I found to clear the diamonds use a grinder and a older diamond blade then lightly touch the two running blades together.
@C II well.. if you want to stop what you doing and go get a new blade more power to you. A tile setter always has a grinder and a few older grinder diamond blades close. It takes no time and little effort to clean the blade right up.
@C II A new blade could be $40-$60 (some cost more, $70 - $100) depending on the one you prefer, so if you can sharpen the one you have in a matter of minutes, its worth it.
It takes no time at all to do this, and every blade should be dressed on occasion, it is part of owning a wet saw. This blade is over $100, not going to just toss it when it can be made like knew in minutes.
How do you determine the difference as to when the blade needs sharpening, or when it needs to be replaced? I assume the blades eventually go bad in general?
The part that looks different on the rim of the blade is where the diamond are embedded in the blade, as long as that is still there you can sharpen the blade, once you are close to bare metal, it is time to replace the blade.
I have the same DeWalt wet saw with a DeWalt XP4 blade, it has a slight warp to it and it wobbles a little bit when I'm cutting, any tricks on how to straighten it up or if it's even possible? I have a feeling I'm just gonna have to buy a new blade.
Heads up..I had a sharpened blade but would wobble so i replaced with new noticing that the new blade was almost twice as thick as old...so..a blade that wobbles means its too thin to cut
Hey Rob, just my .02 cents.... I'm not Sal, but I am David. Lol! I'm a TCNA CTI. I don't know what you're looking for as far as tips to working with the large format. It's all pretty simple until you get into 4x8 ft units. What type of material are you working with? On what substrate? What saw or snap cutter are you using? Not everyone has a monolit P3 that will do super long tile. It is more time consuming, but it can be ripped with a grinder and diamond blade, then cross cuts on your saw will be easy enough. Or you can use go board or kerdi board to make long rips on a saw like that dewalt d2400 in sals video. Outside of that, we no longer do any large format tile without an anti lippage system. So I would absolutely use a good one. LevTec is our favorite, but T lock, and Raimondi makes good ones too. With large format we always back trowel our tile. And of course, always directional trowel no matter which tile you are setting. We use ardex and laticrete thinsets pretty exclusively. Make sure you're using a high quality thinset, and the correct thinset for the tile and substrate beneath. Shoot for 100% coverage. You don't want a 4 ft piece of stone falling and ruining your career. Easy peasy otherwise.... Hope this helps some. I'll help further if you provide the details or have any further questions. Good luck to ya👍
Ahh ga damn! Let's you me get down ta Biddy Early's far a few pitchers of beer. Ders women don air what will let ya touch 'em in all da right places. It's da place ta be adder a long day of cuttin' tile.
Hi Sal, great video, my buddy and o are remodeling another bathroom, wonder if you had this issue, after mixing the tinsnips, it became a pin drop quiet moment, my partner farted and it sounded like a thick liquid bubbling out of a walrus ass, the homeowner was right on the stairs
Nope none of these method's work by cutting this stuff your just glazing the blade think about it all these method's are exactly like cutting material it all has a similar hardness to tile.
So instead of saying it is wrong, why don't you offer what the correct method is. Absolutely wrong comment. Anyone can say something is wrong, even if that something is correct, not offering an explanation or a suggestion on what was wrong with it is pointless. Please enlighten us all.
@@paulstar59 I am not going anywhere. By the way the fact that the blade cuts like new after it is dressed like this, would suggest that it is not absolutely wrong, but that maybe it is one way that works, but there are also other ways that might be better. So instead of saying that it is absolutely wrong, maybe a more diplomatic approach , like "Yes that is one way to do it, but a better method is ....." just saying for future posts it might be a tactic to employ, instead of an adversarial approach which will only result in a defensive response. .
@@SalDiBlasi Great response Sal. It's easy for folks to criticize without offering a better way. I'm sure Paul really doesn't have a better way he's just a mean soul. I enjoyed the video and thanks for the tip that the blade needs to be cleaned more with glass projects! I'm ready to clean my blade but now I know I'll need to do it pretty often. Many thanks!!!
Thanks! This tip saved me both time and money; I didn't have to go out and purchase a new blade. Fortunately, I had a dual grit rubbing stone to dress the blade. I believe the backer mesh on the mosaic tile I was cutting was clogging the blade edge. After a few cuts into the rubbing stone, the blade cut through my porcelain tile significantly faster. Yay!
Thanks, glad it helped
In addition to Sal's good information - I've found that (prior to using a dressing stone as shown in the video) that making a couple of *DRY* (i.e., no water) short straight cuts (an inch or so long) using a scrap piece of porcelain tile will wear away the substrate metal in the blade and quickly reveal a fresh set of diamonds thus restoring the cutting surface to the blade. When you do this, you'll actually see some small sparks coming off the blade and you'll know you're removing a thin layer of the native steel substrate in the blade. Follow this up with the dressing stone (with water) as shown in the video to polish up the blade a bit. I find you don't need to use the dressing stone nearly as much using this approach (thus prolonging the life of your dressing stone). Also, for really nice smooth cuts on porcelain with minimal chipping, use a continuous rim blade on your saw (i.e., not a segmented blade as shown in this video -- while a segmented blade will cut faster, it also tends to cause more chipping of the highly brittle porcelain coating.
Is there a blade you recommend?
Good vid. Often overlooked since people dont realize that diamond blades get caked with tile residue. I do this every few dozen cuts. Takes no time and keeps the cuts nice.
You're right Mike! I was looking for a new diamond blade thinking mine went bad until I read about a dressing stone. Great info!
Good advice, I been in the tile setting for 50+ years. One thing that was not mentioned is using the proper blade for the proper material. What might sound backwards is that the harder the material (Granite, Porcelain) the softer the blade needs to be, and the softer the material (white body tile limestone, and marble) the harder the blade. The reason being is in order for the blade to cut the matrix needs to be broken down to expose new diamond. A hard blade matrix cutting a hard material doesn't break down to expose new diamonds and vice versa.
Mate your blade to the material you are cutting and it will cut down on the glazing problem
Thanks for watching my video and thanks for the added advice.
Sal your the best installer of tile in North America that's unbelievable !!!!! I have not seen anyone install tile the way you do ,you should make some music videos
😊👍
Very useful video. I rent a lot of these out, and was wondering why people were having trouble. The blades had plenty of diamonds but weren’t cutting.
Glad it helped
Another nice video Sal....informative.
Glad to help
Thank you for the tip!
No problem!
Good tip Sal! I dress my blades often.I find it works best when you dress the blade dry.
Wet, dry, will work either way.
Thank you, Sal!! Signed up and will look through your videos on how to cut a baby circle 3” on porcelain to fit around the metal decorative flange at the end of the waterline....urrrr, tried and failed! Cool on how to bring back your diamond blade like new, will go order an dressing stone....35 years on tile, OMG, how are your knees?! This is HARD work!
Thanks Sal for all the videos you post. I have learned so much & continue to support 😀
Thanks 😊👍
Well done videos, straight and to the point like all you have made. Still watching them and thank you for making them! Sal, question: Which 7" blade would you recommend I purchase for chip free, clean cuts on 9mm thick 12 x 24 porcelain polished tile?? I have a small table top wet blade saw but looking to purchase an entry level (overhead) wet saw with stand for a small job to better handle the large format tile.
Can you elaborate more on how to use concrete to sharpen a diamond blade?
That's great. I'm going to buy a new makita blade.My blade is as good as new again. Incomparably grateful.
Thanks for video. Why is my new and expensive blade chipping the tile on one side???
Its only a Ridgid blade but its the top Ridgid..
The tile is cheap but I was getting decent cuts with cheaper blade that came with the saw.
I wonder if I am going too slow?? Rest of shower project going well thanks to your videos.
By the way Carl Yastremski was the greatest.
Awesome!
It's good advice but you've got to wait for it!
Keep as much clean water as possible on the blade is a big help. I've also use the dressing stone and rub stone, the best way I found to clear the diamonds use a grinder and a older diamond blade then lightly touch the two running blades together.
@C II well.. if you want to stop what you doing and go get a new blade more power to you. A tile setter always has a grinder and a few older grinder diamond blades close. It takes no time and little effort to clean the blade right up.
@C II A new blade could be $40-$60 (some cost more, $70 - $100) depending on the one you prefer, so if you can sharpen the one you have in a matter of minutes, its worth it.
It takes no time at all to do this, and every blade should be dressed on occasion, it is part of owning a wet saw. This blade is over $100, not going to just toss it when it can be made like knew in minutes.
Very clear thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Hearing protection! Nice.
What you say? I didn’t hear you;)
Good thank you sir
Welcome
Thank you.
You're welcome!
How do you determine the difference as to when the blade needs sharpening, or when it needs to be replaced? I assume the blades eventually go bad in general?
The part that looks different on the rim of the blade is where the diamond are embedded in the blade, as long as that is still there you can sharpen the blade, once you are close to bare metal, it is time to replace the blade.
You must of heard me talking today about how my blade needs sharpening!!
Your saw spins like 5 times as long as mine after power is cut. Just an older saw?
What do you have on the back tray of the saw for water containment? Looks like a great idea
Might be time to make a new one, just a piece of Foam board that stands up to stop over spray, notched out to lock into the back tray.
@@SalDiBlasi Very nice idea and as always thanks for the content
I have the same DeWalt wet saw with a DeWalt XP4 blade, it has a slight warp to it and it wobbles a little bit when I'm cutting, any tricks on how to straighten it up or if it's even possible? I have a feeling I'm just gonna have to buy a new blade.
The dewalt blade is ok, but a better blade suited to the material you are cutting will serve you better.
👍👍😊
Heads up..I had a sharpened blade but would wobble so i replaced with new noticing that the new blade was almost twice as thick as old...so..a blade that wobbles means its too thin to cut
Great video. Plan to watch your other videos. This video was recommended by jeffostroff when I watched his assembly video for Dewalt D24000.
Thanks for watching my video.
I’ve been using a cheap brick from the home store. Just make a few cuts in it and instantly better. No need for a fancy stone
Brick always does the trick! Cheers mate.
Sal could you do a brief video sometime on how you got your start in tiling and who and what were the influences to achieve your professionalism?
I have several videos on the topic, here is one ua-cam.com/video/yZujnu3QW1g/v-deo.html
@@SalDiBlasi ok thanks for pointing that out.
Hey Sal, I'll be installing 2'x4' tiles on a shower wall in a few weeks. Do you have any videos or tips on working with such large tiles?
Just look through my channel, lots of videos with large format tile.
Hey Rob, just my .02 cents.... I'm not Sal, but I am David. Lol! I'm a TCNA CTI.
I don't know what you're looking for as far as tips to working with the large format. It's all pretty simple until you get into 4x8 ft units. What type of material are you working with? On what substrate?
What saw or snap cutter are you using?
Not everyone has a monolit P3 that will do super long tile. It is more time consuming, but it can be ripped with a grinder and diamond blade, then cross cuts on your saw will be easy enough. Or you can use go board or kerdi board to make long rips on a saw like that dewalt d2400 in sals video. Outside of that, we no longer do any large format tile without an anti lippage system. So I would absolutely use a good one. LevTec is our favorite, but T lock, and Raimondi makes good ones too. With large format we always back trowel our tile. And of course, always directional trowel no matter which tile you are setting. We use ardex and laticrete thinsets pretty exclusively. Make sure you're using a high quality thinset, and the correct thinset for the tile and substrate beneath. Shoot for 100% coverage. You don't want a 4 ft piece of stone falling and ruining your career. Easy peasy otherwise.... Hope this helps some. I'll help further if you provide the details or have any further questions. Good luck to ya👍
@@MostlyPeacefulCombatVet Thanks for chiming in, some good advice.
What do you do if there are ceramic 30× 90 or 50×15 60×120 go to rubi
Sorry, don't understand your question.
What to do if there is ceramic 60×120 or50x150 with roof staickers thanks
Us translate type
in arbic
Sorry, just don't understand.
Trae
👌👌👌👌👌👌
Can you try our blades ?
A red house brick will clean the diamonds and stop the chipping, easy
Save yourself the money. Dried thinset works better
Ahh ga damn! Let's you me get down ta Biddy Early's far a few pitchers of beer. Ders women don air what will let ya touch 'em in all da right places. It's da place ta be adder a long day of cuttin' tile.
Rambles on for 3:25, just tell us FFS!
A lot of people like it when I ramble.
nothing works as good as a bastard file hands down.
Hi Sal, great video, my buddy and o are remodeling another bathroom, wonder if you had this issue, after mixing the tinsnips, it became a pin drop quiet moment, my partner farted and it sounded like a thick liquid bubbling out of a walrus ass, the homeowner was right on the stairs
Brian Glade 🤫🤫🤫😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Nope none of these method's work by cutting this stuff your just glazing the blade think about it all these method's are exactly like cutting material it all has a similar hardness to tile.
It works if you do it as routine maintenance, if you let a blade go too long, it wont work.
Does not work, use the bastard file edge bash technique, it definitely works.
R c
absolutely wrong technique
So instead of saying it is wrong, why don't you offer what the correct method is. Absolutely wrong comment. Anyone can say something is wrong, even if that something is correct, not offering an explanation or a suggestion on what was wrong with it is pointless. Please enlighten us all.
@@paulstar59 I am not going anywhere. By the way the fact that the blade cuts like new after it is dressed like this, would suggest that it is not absolutely wrong, but that maybe it is one way that works, but there are also other ways that might be better. So instead of saying that it is absolutely wrong, maybe a more diplomatic approach , like "Yes that is one way to do it, but a better method is ....." just saying for future posts it might be a tactic to employ, instead of an adversarial approach which will only result in a defensive response. .
@@SalDiBlasi thanks so much Sal!
Havent heard back from Paul yet. Maybe he cut off his typing fingers - using the correct technique no doubt... 😮
@@SalDiBlasi Great response Sal. It's easy for folks to criticize without offering a better way. I'm sure Paul really doesn't have a better way he's just a mean soul. I enjoyed the video and thanks for the tip that the blade needs to be cleaned more with glass projects! I'm ready to clean my blade but now I know I'll need to do it pretty often. Many thanks!!!
Sal for President!