My Tractor's Not What I Thought it Was!
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- Опубліковано 13 жов 2024
- My Tractor's not what I thought it was! How to check the year of your tractor. What's the first thing you should do to a new used tractor? Very old farm machinery in operation on the farm. #FarmallFanatic #farmall #farmallm
The letter "O" represents 1945. So the date tags would be 9/13/O, which would mean September 13, 1945. 100% 1945 with 1945 parts.
Yep here is a chart.
A - '31
B - '32
C - '33
D - '34
E - '35
F - '36
G - '37
H - '38
I - '39
J - '40
K - '41
L - '42
M - '43
N - '44
O - '45
P - '46
Q - '47
R - '48
S - '49
T - '50
U and W - '51 (note the letter "V" was skipped)
X - '52
Y - '53
Z - '54
A - '55
B - '56
etc...
Interesting, like the whole Ford N series of tractors serial # all begin with 9N
@Dave Lambert That must be the year they changed them
Chase Dykeman cvs
That's correct. The castings are 1930 plus the value of the alphabet. The Numerical value of O is 15, as it is the 15th letter of the Alphabet. Therefore O indicates a 1945. Q is not used, but 1947 models are indicated by 47. In the 1950s, it changes a bit. Don't quote me but T is 1950, V is 1951, W in 1952, Y is 1953, Z is 1954, and then it repeats: A is 1955, B is 1956, and so on...
I got blessed by my aging neighbor who popped over to our farm one day and introduced himself. Next thing I knew, ole Tommy GAVE me his 1947 Farmall M tractor. Thank you, my friend! May God watch over you since Marilyn passed on and you had to move. We miss ya!
Put it in the best hands he could find 👍
@@FarmallFanatic awww.. thanks! Thanks for all your videoing efforts.
Does anyone know if converting the electrical system to 12 v from 6 volt positive ground on my M is worth it?
Before you start working your M, remove the fuel line from the carburetor, then remove the brass inlet screen, clean. I have found 4 Farmalls with power problems with a plugged carburetor inlet nut screen. The owners had no idea that the screen was there. They kept blaming the sediment bowl screen, or the needle & seat.
Good luck from north east Montana.
I rebuilt this carburetor 2 years ago and did put this screen on there. It sure is easy to forget about though
Even in later years there are carburetors with a screen right by the float needle, so that's not unique to old engines.
ehsnils Our 74 IHC 200 3/4 ton 4x4 has a Holley with a screen in the inlet fitting. Our 84 GMC K25 3/4 ton 4x4 has a Quadrajet with a paper filter in the inlet fitting. I leave them there! If a fuel pump diaphragm goes to heck, it keeps the junk out of the carburetor. On those pickups, I run a in line fuel filter before the fuel pump.
Who wants to help me save the family farm?
It's entirely possible that they put it together after the war from parts that had been sitting in a warehouse.
That's what I figured
Dump gas in the non-existent bucket, HAHAHAH. I like the the two filter gas filter idea, and yes you should have the cleanest gas in the county. Great ole tractor wide front ends seems to be a rare item, and love the throttle up sound thanks for sharing!!!!!!!!
I've picked up a few more of them buckets because they work really good. 🤣
Remember that many factories were commissioned by the government during WWII to build equipment for the war. When this started the factories did not throw out the stock that they had ready to assemble they just stored it away. After the war was over and production went back to normal these parts were then used. I suspect this is the reason way you see multiple date codes on your tractor. It's a nice machine in any case and if they're taken care of they will last for decades.
As far as the fuel filters go I would say that as long as you have good flow to the carburetor then it doesn't matter if there are multiple filters.
I give that 75 year old hefty jewel a big thumbs up because hey l'll be 79 this year and other than a few kinks here and there l'm still good to go.(a little humor). Wish l could start with such great ease, beautiful ole M. Howdy from South Texas and stay safe from that monster epidemic.
My dad was born in 43 and I always used to tell him that this tractor is older than he is but now I can't tell him that lol
Like to say thank you, for being a Great Mentor on UA-cam, our success is directly as a result of watching your Live Streams. Just received the sweatshirt from Farmall Fanatic swag....Happy now again, Thank You Sir
Love the video....I’m a simple man. I buy a standard 3/8 in line filter at any auto parts store between the sediment bowl and the gas tank. Replace it every year or two....empty the sediment bowl every April. 100% agree on keeping the tank full and our of the rain.
Originally they just used the sediment bowl, they had no filter at all and ran good for years. The sediment bowl filter is a good idea, though and can be installed without altering the fuel line. Most of the tractors just had a sediment bowl at the tank. The W-9s were different as they had a fuel pump and the bowl was on that.
Thanks, because of you talking about the years I was able to find out the Farmall M I just purchased is a 1950 with a 1945 motor, been trying to figure that out since I bought the tractor
Excellent
Every time I hear the M running I get chills. Each Far-mall tractor has a distinct sound
Dad Random, ahh, true! And a common one when you shut'er off- silence.😆
Pretty tractor, fuel bulb, nice filter too. Nice flow too. Great discussion. Thanks for sharing, really like older tractors, the Ford's, Ferguson TO30, and classic ford n8 are great. Listen to that purrr. Nice engine noise😍
Hope you have a good night.
Put the plow behind it, you'll find out one way or the other. If my memory serves me correctly, there were no inline filters in the "M" series. It was just the sediment bowl.
Unless the clutch housing was swapped out. Farmall's were fairly "versatile" in their uses. Anything is possible from back then. Cheers :)
Yeah you're correct. But I was rebuilding a carburetor about once a year before I started my inline filters
The filter in the sediment bowl looks to be a good idea. As long as it doesn't affect the performance of the tractor, running 2 filters isn't a bad thing. Pretty good catch be the fellow UA-cam to notice that your M might be different year than you thought. At least now you know what you got. Stay safe.
O he even noticed the nail holding my rain cap on hahaha
Glad you like the filter idea. I use it in my 60 John Deere. I had the carb rebuilt 10 plus years ago and it runs sweet. If you have a restored tractor with the original steel lines but are having problems with dirty fuel and don't want to cut the line to add an inline filter, these are the ticket.
Well Farmall, you have a newer model tractor than originally thought. You gained 5 years, wish I was 5 years younger. 😂
Like you said, you will have the cleanest fuel in town for that carburetor. We will see soon enough how that double filter works out for you. Looks like spring weather ahead coming next few days. Take care and be safe out there. 👍🇨🇦
Adrian
Hahaha id rather be 10 years younger ....beggars cant be choosers 😁
As for the filters I went with to Denny’s carb shop and got a high flow fuel bowl eliminator kit for my two super As. And solved my problems, I was sick of the bowl leaking. I like that M my next tractor some day
I've noticed that when the bowl leaks it's usually because the O ring or gasket is worn out but yes I've seen several people run those bowl bypasses
The more stuff you can keep out of the carburetor the better off you are! I think having 2 filters on your tractor is good,but time will tell when you start working it. Great video
I learn something new every time I watch your videos. Thanks for giving us a sneak peak into your life!
Good seein ya ✌
They probably used that engine for other things, so they would make more than what were used for tractors. They might have stopped tractor production, and then in '45 started up again using any parts they already had. The M I used to have was a '45, I knew that from the tag, but I never bothered to look at the casting numbers.
All my equipment has inline filters plus the regular filter. Dont know why but it works for me. Amazing the history that lies in the cereal tags. Nice to have viewers that pay attention. I've learned alot because of them
Most definitely, I leave my ego hanging in the house when I come out to make a video.
My grandfathers Farmall looks like this,,,,,,,,,,the front wheels are close together,,,,,,,,fenders beside the rear tires. If I’m not mistaken his is a 1948.
It sits in my uncles backyard which was part of my grandfathers dairy farm here in S.E. Georgia. Many memories of grandpa and uncles bush hogging the pastures and pulling stormed downed trees.
Very cool 👍
Thanks for keeping the videos flowing during rough times..
Love the filter's!! As long as tractor has clean fuel tractor run great. If you look at the numbers on motor to get year? That would make my farmall F14 a 1946 model. Motor reads 12-15-45. My tag on tractor fs12859. The first farmer that had it motor cracked in winter of 44. In spring of 46 he was able to get a new motor put in. He did keep old motor. I am 3rd owner. I have original motor. It can be repaired now I will have it fixed someday. Thanks again for the sharing of your tractor. Just before this video I saw your new part for your plow!! Looked great!! Again thank you!!
Tomorrow's video will be testing the filters 😁
@@FarmallFanatic I just hit subscribe. Will be waiting. Thank you for heads up!
Thank you!
Some of those carburetors had a screen on the fitting that the gas line screws into. My SW-6 had one. If the M sounds like it's starved for fuel when you go to plow with it, it looks like taking the in-line out would be the fastest way to get back into the field.
Yes I rebuilt this carburetor and made sure that in flow screen was on there. So really it's triple filtered
Your doing good with adding a bit more filtration and you work it hard enough is why you get the sediment you do get I always found that on tractors that worked vs tractors that just drive around and don't suck fuel hard. My 350 D gives me fits with diesel when it sits anymore so usually I run some biocides and have 2 inline filters plumbed in besides one of the oem elements. so I am going to do a bit of a revamp to the system for filters and leave one of the inlines in and the replace the others with 2 spin ons from Fleetguard or baldwins once I get some prices and info. I May even add on a small electric pusher pump just to help out the high pressure since it has to draw it threw 2 filters which is a struggle and its does not pull hard enough to get sediments into the filters
I added an electric pump to my combine...works great
Ty for sharing the update even though it wasn't what you expected still a good tractor sledgehammered that like button and a enjoyed watch stay safe,awesome and blessed
The camera angle when you first replaced the apple juice looking straight through was genius!
Back then they used what was available. One of my farmall A’s has a crazy long oil filter. A few old timers say they have herd of them from the war time. Have a good one buddy
IH reduced the size of the oil filters in the early 1940s. The H, W-4, A and B used the long filter (376375R91) at first, and it was shortened later (376374R91) The M and W-6 first used the large filter (376376R91), but later used the smaller filter the smaller tractors had (376375R91.) The 9 series tractors and Diesels used the big filter 376376R91) If you want to put the smaller filter on your A, just get the short canister. The base is exactly the same and the diameter is exactly the same.
Thanks for sharing With us
That old tractor looks great and sounds good 👍
That was the best thing you have ever done good job
Well that's kinda crazy finding it was a different year than you always thought . H Turbo was pretty observant to notice that . Looks were not getting any rain until Saturday hopefully I can get some tilling in . It's to early for me to plant but I will get to kill some weeds a few times .
I would use both filters unless they cost so high that it's not cost effective. The tractor purrs like a kitten; nice and smooth. It's really up to you. If it runs good with one filter, go with that and not have to be concerned about needing to maintain two filers....BUT...after hearing how smooth it runs, I like two filters. Be safe and have a fine week. Full-watch.
Here goes my $.02, I had an old wheel horse pulling mini tractor( I extremely regret selling) It was a gravity freed gas engine as well I put a filter right under the tank and right before the carb because the old metal tank was pretty rough inside, it did not negatively affect anything ACCEPT it did show symptoms of a clogged filter more often and I would have to change the under tank filter more often,that was to be expected in this particular situation, I have a white garden tractor with a plastic tank and have the same setup and it has not had anyproblem running out of fuel so with clean/fairly clean filters I don't see you having a problem however you will catch more crud and will most likely have to change then more often as more crud in 2 filters on a gravity system will start to slow fuel flow long before a pump system would.if your tank is in decent shape you should go a good while without issue,I have not changed the filters on the white in far to long.
The 1st thing I did when I got this M was clean that tank thoroughly
It appears to be a tractor that has many parts...from everywhere.. I project for money...but...it is a good ole tractor..and will run many years to come..if proper maintance is done. I am 70 yrs old..and know what I am talking about..been in farming all my life...keep it..enjoy the tractor...it will drink the gasoline if you push it..keep the throttle at 3/4 speed..never wide open...unless you have another engine..lol..2 filters is good..them ole tanks always have some rust in them..cause they are old...ok!..
Interesting to see and hear the knowledge some of you all have about these ole work horses. Take care and stay safe my friend.
Thank you
My brother's has a similar one on the 35Ferguson should help with sedmint. She sounds good nice. I think you can never be to carefull. I would leave her with 2. I checked my brothers 35 its a 1958 Mf 35 we have changed a few bits but not much tried to keep her original. Tc Farmall and stay safe buddy.👍
Bottoms up with a Farmall shooter at 1:26 BOOM! lol Great watch, great series
I love the nonexistent bucket!!!!! You said that just for me!!!😂😂😂 I’m honored like you wouldn’t believe!
Hahaha
All right as long as you didn't think I was a JohnDeere! Your Good! Stay safe!
Lmao
Gday from Australia mate 🤝🇦🇺👍 new friend here supporting. This is an awesome video thanks for sharing 🤝 stay safe mate
2 filters is nice. Very interesting on the dating of that tractor. Take Care.
We put those filters on our John Deere two bangers. Way better than cutting the line. It was in the back of the Green magazine Mr. thinker's almanac.
Interesting
I have a 1940 M that looks like a twin to yours and a 1945 narrow front. My 40 fit in a barn for 30 plus years and as far as I can tell it’s never been apart. And it will work circles around my 45.
It's amazing how the same model of tractor isn't the same tractor, but I know that's true because I've seen it too
You just upgraded. Got a tractor that is 5 years newer.
The bowl filter will keep your inline filter lasting longer. The more the merrier.
Good job fixing in the field 👍
Good investigating on the tractor date.
I'm hoping so
Yeah I learned about the casting codes this last summer and how they worked. For our m's super m and super mta
Cool filter that fits in the bowl like that. I usually run them as factory intended screen in bowl. Or with ball valve setup with inline reusable filter.
Those filters are great for catching rust coming from those old tanks . Buy yourself a Stanley I H 13 muffler at TSC or rural King. It's much quieter and it doesn't hamper performance.
They sure are 👍
I use an inline filter on my super A the sediments bowl has not filter but it si good at catching water in the fuel has long as you check it every time you use the tractor. The manual recommends cleaning the sediment bowl every 250 hours. The Super A came with a C-113 engine. Someone has put a C-123 in it. The Super A , 100, 130 and 140 are pretty much the same tractor and parts are interchangeable for the most part. These older tractors have a good chance of having parts replaced with parts from different year tractors.
Yea true
Glad you figured out your casting codes (O = 1945). With that said with these old tractors nothing would surprise me as far as parts being swapped in etc. Personal example: There was a family local to me when I was a kid that had a pretty sizable dairy operation (early 1980's) and for whatever reason they had come across 30+ poor running/non running Farmall Ms and Super Ms and purchased them on the cheap. Basically they took those 30ish tractors and built a fleet of about 10 tractors with tons of spares to do various chores such around the dairy farm. Everything from running spreader, haybine, hayrake, running the grain drill etc to running the square baler when needed. When I go home to visit my parents they are still using some of those old reconstructed tractors.
So if you every buy an old farmall M/Super M from NW PA and it happened to come from this old dairy farm don't be surprised if you find about a dozen different casting dates on the parts LOL
Well wait a minute, I am in Northwestern Pennsylvania. Lol
Question your answer.. you just took out a little bit of water. That makes the glass bowl superiors and the inline filter which does not separate out water. Unless you find out is hurting something I was just probably leave it in there and chill it's time to replace it. I tell you he kept up with the old school sediment filter you would be saving money.
My 62 Ford, is no different, Likely modified by Mel's Tractor. It has 'lots of 58 parts, started as a 631, converted to 641 (pto added). I added power steering, a different front end loader than it had before my brother got it. I have an industrial 801 engine to change next. Number plate over the fly wheel is original, the rest? It is still a Ford, but some is aftermarket, some is another maker modified to fit (Michigan loader wheels for drive wheels, 14x24's) Have fun
Love the videos, do you have a video on how to change the motor oil, PTO oil and where to fill and check each one of these areas for correct levels, thank you
Yep, there is a video on oil change in the Farmall H playlist. The rest will be coming soon.
@@FarmallFanatic do you have how-to on the Farmall M
As a guess, manufacturing could have been all changed around because of the war and the Sept. '40 parts hadn't been assembled into an M tractor before everything got changed up for war production. By late '44- early '45, it was apparent that the Allies were going to win in the end (although the last year was a rough one for all involved) so, anticipating the farm industry in which the newest tractors were 5 years old, more tractors were going to be needed right off so they got rolling before the end of '45. I like reading about aircraft and there were many aircraft which were going to be used in the 50s but were designed in '43 and '44. One of those historical things, There must be a Farmall wizard out there who knows the whole story.
You cherish your tractors like do my drones! Super H in the house!
If your tractor starves for gas at wide open throttle under heavy load after a some time then if all screens are clean then you have too many filters. Or if you have problems when the tank is low on fuel, should be able to run the fuel tank nearly dry depending upon tank fitting locations if in hilly terrain.
That seam were the transmission and clutch housings bolt to each other, have you had problems with that seam opening at the bottom? I just got an M last year and mine has a 4 thousandths gap half way around.
where'd you get that "Shop Rag".....Taco Bell???
Arby's
That's a nice filter I've never seen that before? I wonder how many sizes they make for different size bowls/tractors?
As long as the flow of fuel to the carb isn't effected I guess you could run as many filters as you'd want.
My M just has a inline filter. I eliminated the bowl with just a simple ball valve because when I was tractor pulling with it the bowl was restricting the flow of gas I needed with the RPMs I was turning. Half way down the track it would start to run out of gas. 😆
I'm not 100% sure that they make these for the Cub but from what I can tell, they definitely are made for the A on up
Never saw that filter before. Leaned something!
This is a dumb question, but I'm gonna throw it out there. Ya use a bottom plow to break the ground, pick up all debris and rocks, but what's the disks used for, and how do ya keep your rows straight. I'm only used to using a rear tine tiller, using string to keep my rows straight, and the a garden spade. I am purchasing a few acres of land and wanna try doing it with my H
Discs pulverize the clumps of soil and fit the field like a tiller.
@@FarmallFanatic Thank You. I appreciate the response.
Plow then disc...should appear tilled
@@FarmallFanatic Thank You
You could say I picked it up at the factory, it was cheaper that way.
What year is it?
It's a 40. 41 42 43 44 45....... 😎
Once piece at a time and wouldn't cost me a dime
Probably a war power production interruption. IH shifted to war equipment production for WW2 and parts ready pre-war were warehoused during the war and used post war. Somewhat of a unique tractor maybe.I've got a 1946 CJ2A that is a mishmash of parts: some Willys and some Ford (ford labeled every one of their parts right down to a ford emblem on bolt heads). Post war Willys used all war surplus parts they could find to make the CJ2A's.
I like the filter but if water get down there will you see it in the bottom. Just a question.
Time will definitely tell
The original Big Red...the Farmall M.
Great video! Where did you find the sediment bowl filter element?
Thanks! Ebay
If ur tag has w at end, it was factory original front end and would say mw. If it was added later, it just says m. We have a sm but its labeled just m. It had a sm kit installed in the 60s by dealer.
You want to get rid of that axial line filter and install a bracket and use a bowl-type down by the carb as well. Using another glass bowl McFarMy filter down there would be pro-original. In-line axials are for use BEFORE a bowl.
Have one of those filters on my A john deere and changed it after about 30 hours of run time, found quite a lot of very small particles in the pleats of the filter.
At least it caught it
Clean Fuel always Good! A thought; your tractor is WW II post war production with old stock prewar parts?
Yep
wow thats a super cool looking tractor I love it
Thank you!
Hi from Australia, you can have to many filters particularly with gravity feed, every filter has a flow restriction due to the filter medium and will eventually starve the engine of fuel. this is not so much of a problem if it is fitted with a fuel pump.
The only time a fuel filter is a problem is when it is clogged. My 1971 Ford truck had 5 filters. 1 off the main tank, 1 off each side tank, 1 before the fuel pump and one in the pump. The only ones that gave me problems were the side tanks.
Very true
I have 1946 cub that has a positive ground. Does your M also have a positive ground ?
No, I converted to 12v
Awesome job my friend. God bless you all 👍
Did you ever talk about the M&W hand clutch on your M? I just noticed it in this video.
No I've never mentioned it but good notice
@@FarmallFanatic Any plans to fix it up and show it in use, or is it hard to find parts for those?
@@jasonwhitler4167 I can get parts for it. The thing about the M and W hand clutch is that it wasn't really made for hard tiling.
They work great used them for years
Good to hear!
Two filters on a gravity fed fuel system shouldn't be a probablem but you don't won't to do that on a fuel pump! It might not be what you thought but it is still as good as you want! lol Have a good week and stay safe!
Hahaha yep...you too!
Assuming it doesn't run out of fuel, the more filtration the better! Congrats on owning a tractor you didn't think you had:) Nothing wrong with a 1945
That's what I was thinking 👍
Two filters can lower the fuel flow, pay attention so it don't run too lean during high load due to that, and that can be a concern with gravity-fed carburetors.
One good filter with good filter area is usually enough.
It will be interesting
Excellent work my friend. Stay safe in this difficult time. God bless you. Let's pray for World
As long as the filter seals good at the top so sediment don't flow past the filter. I would get rid of the inline if you want it to look more orgional
If you watch the video I made after this one disking the field it showed no signs of locking power or fuel. So far I'm pretty satisfied.
Great video never seen anything quite like it
Unless you know the whole history of a tractor this old, there are so many parts get swapped over the years casting codes can reveal a whole different story under a shiny paint job. Farmalls are no different to the Fordsons I collect, you've only got to look at Squatch 253's recent restoration. He had to swap out damaged castings to get his immaculate working tractor. There are many old Majors out there with mixed parts we call "Heinz 57's" because there might be 57 different tractors parts in it . Thanks for the video, Take care
100% 👍
Hi!! Sometime in the past, someone put two dead tractors together, and made one live M. I know many stories like this from my past as a farmer.
Interesting
I was thinking the same thing
My late dad did the same thing a few years ago with a C and a Super C. About 75 yo at the time. Growing up, we had a neighbor who rebuilt the family C engine as an FFA project. New pistons sleeves turned crank, new rungs and bearings, while nine yards. Unfortunately he wasnt much of a mechanic and never got it running right due to carb issues. It sat in their pasture for 30 years and sheetmetal rusted to pieces. Tires rotted off rims. Dad asked about buying it for years and was told “im gonna fix it some day”. One day it was gone, sold to the local tractor hoarder. (Guy has twenty ir more tractors in his front yard, north of Edna tx on hwy 111. Fast forward another 5 or so years, dad notices a super C sitting about an hour from home. Good rubber still and perfect sheetmetal (not being right on the Texas Gulf coast where dad lived). He Passed by on way to my place and used to see it being used in a truck patch, now sitting. Stops and asks about it, elderly lady says her husband passed away and cant bring herself to sell. She wont even let him Look at it. Passed by several years, still sitting, goes to ask again, house is empty, gets phone number of daughter from neighbor. Wife had passed away too. Checks tractor closer and they let it rain in engine with no rain cap and nothing over exhaust. Engine is stuck. Tells daughter and she offers to sell for $100. Fast hitch with cultivators, discs middle busters turning plows and shredder (deck rusted out) all fast hitch. Dad got it home and Tried to free engine no luck. Goes by local tractor hoarder and inquires about C. He still has it. Dad puts on his poker face and asks about engine condition. Hoarder either forgot or didnt know condition. Dad says he wants to be sure its not stuck. Hoarder cant find a crank handle so he gets a hot battery to see if it will turn. Not only does it turn, it tries to start! Just ruined dad’s plan of low ball offer. He has to give $500 for whole tractor. Pulls C engine and installs on Super C (not sure why he went this route as I wasn’t around. Maybe because of fast hitch and lift in Super C? Wanted to check clutch? The only change was adding water pump from Super C. Super C radiator was toast and C had new radiator but neck is different for pressurized cap so he took the two of them to a radiator shop and had them swapped. I have the Super C now an i am Looking into a fast hitch to 3 pt. Adapter so i can use a landscape rake and I own on it. Dad Sold C with stuck Super C engine back to local tractor hoarder for $200, so he had less than $500 in tractor. Dad passed away from blood clot 11/18. At 81 yo. Still driving working on old chevy pickups and tractors the week he died. I inherited six cubs from him as well that are future projects. He restored three cubs and two Super As to working condition in addition to the Super C over the years. I also have a Super A that he bought that some put together from several tractors as it was all different shades of red and rust. He didn’t get the story though. Seller was asking $500 but it wasn’t running right so dad offered $200 (no implements but had brackets and pulleys for woods L59 belly mower mounted. Dad said he asked where the mower deck was. Seller says a spindle broke so he junked it. (!) . Dad got it home and checked the carb and the float was set too high and flooding. Reset float and changed the oil (gas diluted). He cleaned it up and painted it. I found a woods L59 mower in OKC, OK so we drove up and bought it for $300. I sold the brackets and pulleys for $100.
Not to many. They make in line glass filters that you can take apart and clean. Wix are very good .
Have run diesels with 2 filters for years, and some older gas engines. I never seen where it hurt anything. Although the M being gravity fed instead of pump fed may make a difference. Only time will tell
Was thinking puting electronic instead of points in my 656. Had a 504 15 years ago.put electronic in only lasted a year. Maybe they made better now.was supposed to increase 3-4hp i think?
You know I've never actually put this tractor on a dyno but that is what I heard as well
That’s good news, the 45 M is a better tractor because the knowledge on metallurgical improvements learned during the war. I had a 41 and a 48 M , the 48 was a much better tractor . I had a 45 H also
Good to know
Good video my brother 👍
Thanks man 👍
That tractor sounds great man, better than my Kubota
It definitely has a lot of torque
I tried an in-line filter twice on two different Cubs and they both vapor locked from lack of fuel flow. I guess the bowl and screen on the inlet will have to be enough
Gotta use the right filter
@@FarmallFanatic some dude was selling Farmall cub fuel lines on eBay made out of rubber with an in line filter and shutoff. I tried two and they both leaked and vapor locked☹️
@@LedgemereHeritageFarm do it yourself...NAPA 3003
In Iowa, it is all but impossible to get alcohol free gasoline. These old tanks will scale off forever. I run an inline filter on my AC. But it scales bad. If I let the tank get down below a quarter, scales will actually block the flow out of the tank. I have thought about getting a liner in it.
We are very lucky here to be able to use non ethanol
you just aren’t buying gas at the right place
kwik star et. al.
There is no such place in my area.
Tim Gilchrist have you tried casey’s? the red is low test no A
The first glass bowl filter is mainly used as a fuel water separator, the inline does the actual filtering of the fuel
More filtration is a good thing (as long as the gravity-feed is not affected) That second filter should not be pointing down towards the carb.... the debris should be allowed to 'fall away' from the filter-element into the housing. (just like the water-bowel you cleaned out)
a fuel filter is a fuel filter, it works or it doesn't. There's water in the tank. a regular fuel filter won't filter out water. The purpose of the sight glass is so you can see there's water in the tank. You may have to drain the tank entirely. Jack up the tractor so the fuel outlet is at the lowest point and drain. To remove any water after draining stuff old clean rags into the tank and soak up any remaining. Hook out rags with a hanger wire. :-)
BTW You may also have water in the float chamber. Water, (As you know) being heavier then gasoline settles to the bottom. If the sight glass went full of water at any time then some should also be in the carb float chamber. If the sight glass was at least half full ruff bumps may have caused some to enter the carburetor also. An old time tractor fuel system should be able to handle 15 micron size dirt practicals, but larger dirt particles can enter the Carb from dirt in the tank that over time also causes sludge. The sight glass screen should take them out. Youve got a better deal there with the added inline filter that will allow only 5 microns. When as a boy on the farm we had an H and M also.
Will you still have the water setall in the bottom of the fuel bowel , or will the new filter hold it inside the filter where you cannot see it ?
That's a great question, we will find out