I've used this 'how to' as the template for IS-Shackles which replace all the very hefty steel shackles on a Jordan Series Drogue - a life-saver device for small boats in big storms. I'm using 12mm Dyneema, and with Dyneema anti-chafe woven tubing slipped on. It's idiot-proof, doesn't rot under UV, and I can double 'em up with a spare set which I've made.
this is awesome. I'm so glad i found your channel, even a few years after you posting. im now using these to hang catamarans in a toy hauler. the simplicity in this makes attaching the lift system a breeze and with larger ones running through a webbing tube i can securely store them for transport too.
Love your design. It's simple and works well. I shortened the start length to 40". The end loop is 3" which is perfect for my setup. Thanks for the video!
This uses a knot that I can trust not to come undone, very important for hanging a hammock. I've heard reports of the regular soft shackles coming undone under tension--not a problem here since the ends are buried and run back through the knot. I used these to replace the heavy carabiners on my hammock suspension. Thanks for the excellent instruction.
Thank you Tac Blades. Following your video yesterday I made my first two dyneema Whoopie Slings, immediately changed out the webbing on my hammock-hanging in my living room as I sort it out for camping. Great video. This morning, in about 20 minutes I made my first Improved Soft Shackle. Really good instruction. Much appreciated.
This appears to be so much simpler than tying and tightening a diamond knot, and stronger to boot! A little bit of protective sheath would make this perfect.
I Liked this, so much so that when i was looking for a tutorial to make an EVO loop and failing to find one I realised it was essentially a soft shackle but without the slip/adjustable loop at the end. With 40" of cord you end up with about an 8" loop with the knot on the end.
What an eye opener. While I like my Dutch clips for my hammock tree straps, they do cost $$. These improved soft shackles have a less fussy open/close than the soft shackle that I've considered using for tree straps in my other hammock kits. Another advantage over Dutch clips: these won't take the paint off posts in urban hangs. MEGA thanks! Rope is fun!
Well technically the button knot is marginally stronger, but that is only the case if it is tied perfectly and also pre tensioned with a machine. In 99% of cases this doesnt happen and then this is much stronger.
This is an extremely helpful video. Thanks so much for making it! At the end of the video, you said you would try the same method with lash-it or zing-it, but I haven't seen a follow up video. I did a bit of experimenting with 1.75mm lash-it and found that your method worked quite well. I settled on a 32" line length, 4" bury, and 1.25" loop.
Thanks Tac! This and your UCR video have both been super helpful. Great close camera shots and I really appreciate the details you share about sizing and length as you go along. It really helps me keep track of my own piece and keeps me at least close to where I should be.
Great video. Clear. Easy to understand. I found this method much easier than the button knot soft schackle (watched a lot of videos and wasted a lot of time trying to get the button knot right). I made four sets of theses for grand kids' hammocks in fairly short order. Also liked the celtic soft shackle version in the separate related video.
Tac videos are the best!! I’m learning a lot from your easy to follow video instructions. Please don’t give up providing such great posts. From Jim across the pond in Connecticut.
It’s likely someone already mentioned this, but I can’t go through all the comments -> If you tie a small loop in thinner cord around the “working part” (i.e. through the hole in the middle that you feed the longer part of the rope through), you can use it to open the shackle without fiddling, even with your gloves on. I doubt it degrades the shackle integrity much, if at all. Thank you for sharing the knowledge, Tac Blades.
No it would all have to be adjusted, for lots of reasons, especially the back splices. Trial and error is a good way, but it would have to be tested to be sure.
I will use this as a backup schackle on my paraglider, would it be ok to make this schackle but have one line go inside the other like on some other schackles(not where the knot is)to elliminate the risk of the 2 loose lines caching on something? Dont know if i make myself clear but you have knot, 2 lines, loop. I want knot, 1 line, loop.
@@TacBlades oh yeah man my bad, i forgot about the burried ends. I did this schackle one year ago and had forgot that part. I see now as im watching the video again that its not possible.
Do you have any tips on ways to make this schackle secured when not under load? I just made one and i see now that its not ideal since it will be a backup and wont be under pressure until the main one snaps. Thinking about o-rings or something to make the lock stay in place.
Jeez another fantastic video, thank you for sharing. Again I was able to follow, blind guy, absolutely awesome. Thank you Soo much. The Blind Lock Picker Rob in Connecticut😎
Any reason these couldn't be used as enhanced continuous loops? especially without the noose and a longer loop? I just got into whoopie slings and think this design has a lot of potential.
Just made two following your instructions. It's a hell of a lot harder than you make it look! Lol Anyway, made two. They seem firm and strong, although I haven't tried them out yet. That'll have to wait for my next wild camp when they'll be used to join my hammock whoopie slings to tree straps. Fingers crossed! Thanks, great video, excellent design.
Can someone answer, thanks if I want a larger loop do I just increase the overall length. I believe it’s for a 6 inch loop and I need 8 inch loop he has a 48 inch piece to make a 6 inch loop so do I just increase the length to make my loop 8 inch thanks again.
I know this is old video and hoping you're still monitoring the chat. Really enjoyed the video and hoping to make some of these but I can't find the tools you're using (which I like better than typical fids). Do you have some info or links that would help me track them down? Thanks!
I missed getting one of the buries long enough. Still a good knot. The overhand, though, is very big. I think I will stick with the button knot. I started with 60" and ended with a 3-1/2" shackle.
you presented it very well, im new to these types of knots and will be using them in vehicle recovery. i do have a question though,would it take the weak point away from the loop if there was a sheeps head there for the loop rather than going thru the center of the body of the rope? i hope i was clear, i dont know all of the terminology yet. thanks tim
I know what you mean but in testing it was weaker, when you compress dyneema in a knot it can reduce the breaking strain up upto 50% but i would definitly make a few and try both, i use a larks head sometimes, take care as it can jam under a lot of pressure.
Awesome video! Your way of making the button is very easy to follow and looks superior to the classic diamond button knot. Instead of doing the noose portion your way, I just made a lark's head on the opposite end of the button to serve as its lock. Doing this makes a stronger noose.
After commenting, I scrolled down and saw your comment about the Lark's Head squeezing the neck of the button which makes it weaker. It really makes sense! The beauty of your way to make the button is how easy it is to undo it. I will redo one "YOUR WAY" and have one with the Lark's Head and call it a day! Thank you so much for your awesome videos.
TAC Blades, Just F.Y.I. I used two 36" long pieces of dynaglide to make my pair of shackles. With each piece I folded the length in half and then made my marks for the brummel lock on each end at 6" and then 7" to result in a smaller "tiny loop", but still maintaining a 6" bury per your instructions. This results in a shackle that is 3" long shackle that weighs ~2.5 gms. These shackles seem perfect for connecting my 7/64" amsteel whoopies to tree straps. I am going to make a couple of these dynaglide improved soft shackles using your method (which I really like!!!) and send them to Dutch who had offered to do failure testing. I'm betting your 230% stronger claim is right on. Andy
Hi, thanks for a great tutorial! What is the purpose of the center " locking" loop? Why not just make a larks head around the knot? I assume larks head affects the strenght but i'd like to know. Thank you
Ola Andersson you can larks head and it would be ok but it would loose a lot of strength, as the larks head compresses the cord and this is then weaker in theory, but i do make a larks shackle as well and its just fine :)
That actually seems simpler than the diamond/button knots I used before. With those I had to follow a step by step every time I made them. Course I only made 5 or 6 but still. This way uses a bit more rope but is stronger.
Thanks for the video! Which variant would take to make a loop of the same length, this or a button knot? I've tried to watch different videos and it's confusing, it looks like your method uses much more material to achieve the same length, or am i wrong?
It it using more material, mainly because i use the good length of bury for safety and also the end result is a much larger knot than the button knot so uses more material
I appreciate your essy to understand instructions. I do have one question: the specifications you provide are for a 4" loop, how would I calculate the measurement necessary for a 2" loop? Thanks
What length does the finished shackle end up? I want to make one that is 4" long so looking at this think I need to start with somewhat less than 48" of line. Great instructional video by the way, thank you.
Hey Mr. Tac Blades…glad to see you back (on your time to talk video) as worried a bit that you had succumbed to an event or health issue. Happily no and have used your previous videos such as this cone as a resource as you explain and demonstrate very well. Like I had read somewhere had you been my teacher way back in school I would have excelled.l Anyways while your off on the “watch” interest side of things to review would be interested also if you decided to include cuckoo clocks ….ha you not even started yet and getting requests. ?Take care and good to see you back. Lou (Canada)
Wow i have zero knowledge of cuckcoo clocks, not even sure i have actually seen a real one in my whole life :). I am sure the viewers are not ready for the new approach i am going so buckle your seat bealts its going to be a roller coaster of a ride.
Thank you.. For the loop the knot goes through to tie up the shackle, I have used a sliding burry loop instead of splitting the amsteel and putting the strand through the hole as at 11:54 to make the "adjustable loop". Just wondering if this is stronger? Thanks again.
They both work, Its not stronger as you need a minium length of bury for stength. But with the bury type can be tricky to open in the pouring rain and sub zero with gloves on :)
Should you still be around, I'm in North Queensland, Aus, where everything is slow. Hence the late request. Guidance required, Where can I get a FID, for splicing Dyneema, as shown in your great video? AMAZONis probably my best source of gear. Help, appreciated. Cheers RJT NQLD
Very nicely done. I am a professional Stunt Rigger and I really enjoy your videos. This video is a bit dated so I ask you; is this still your preferred method for making soft shackles? Thank you for you very nicely presented and digestible work.
@@TacBlades Have you seen this new "universal loop" that Jeff Myers presented recently? I'd love to hear what you think of it (and compare it to "improved soft shackel"), and to see your DIY tutorial for it.
@@zbabic jeff has some great ideas and all the loop shackles and devices work pretty well. I like the improved soft shackle because its simple, anyone can make it and has never let me down.
Its not my original idea it was the result of extensive academic research but was burried in a whitepaper, i just wanted to present it in a way that was easy to follow for everyone.
Excellent. I can do the locked loop but have always had a problem with the diamond knot, so this looks actually easier for me. And I have a good length of lash it around to try with. Thanks.
Thank you for the lesson! Very good. Maybe just one wish, if you could present your measures in both inch and mm. That would be a great help for us from Mars. Cheers!
Great video! Thanks. Question: For the adjustable loop, are you measuring "just over a half inch" from the outside of the loop or the inside? I assume inside, but, since dimensions are critical, I would like to be sure.
Great tutorial! super easy. I've made 2 sets. I have a question. What is the tan or wood handled tool you use to divide and widen the Amsteel with? Much better than what I use.
Should have guessed that would be a UK site, but I did find it on ebay for only $5.50 (US). I made 2 of these with 1.75mm zing it for hanging my tarp... FIDDLY! Thanks again!
Graham Richardson you will have to experiment a bit, there is a minimum size due to the burries, if you use zingit or lashit it can go very small if it is strong enough0
How do you think this would work, in place of a continuous loop, binding the top of a hammock? Then you could open it up, attach directly to your straps, or the closed end of your Whoopies, or whatever. The knot at the top might even make for a good anchor for a Ridgeline?
Tried it out, using your guide and measurements, worked perfectly for replacing the heavy cord and steel carabiner in my double. Thanks! Now I can skip the carabiner there altogether, and I think the knot will work good as an attachment point for a ridgeline.
Hi there. Awesome clip, making it very clear and easy to follow. Wondering if you could provide the various lengths required for different diameters please? Apologies in advance if you have already provided.
Tac Blades so does that imply that all the buries etc are changed proportionately? If I reduce the overall length by half, then the buries are halved etc?
Tac Blades I’m thinking that most things (including the loops and buries) have to remain constant irrespective of the shackle diameter, in order to continue remain buried past the knot, and allow the rope to pass through etc. I think I answered my own question. 🤣🤣
Wonderful video but I made one with a larger diameter dyneema & realized that the 'bury' & all the measurements are different for bigger line. Can anyone point me to a guide to measurements for different size line? Mahalo Chris in Hawaii
Hi, I have a question about your version of the soft shackle: did you have it tested at the 230% strength or is that number based on l-36.com/high_strength_soft_shackle.php ? I really like your version because of how the tails of the eye splices are throughout the knot and into the part that the loop goes around. This seems to eliminate the weak point of where the tails of the button knot get buried with the other version of the shackle.
The part of the video where you don't show the second loop made at the end, are you passing the buried loop end through the second hole like you did on the first one? Is that possible given how large a buried rope would be?
Nevermind on this. After watching the entire video again, I see that you do actually pull the knot with the bury through the cord. I guess I need an all for this project. I didn't have one, and as it turns out, it's a difference maker in terms of being able to pull items through when they are double the thickness. thanks for the tutorial.
This is an amazing tutorial, thank you so much for sharing. I really like the tools you use, can you share a little about them and where we can purchase them.
Excellent demonstration. I get it now. And because of the bury, the cord is also double-thickness where the loop tightens around it just behind the knot. As I understand it, that's also a common point of failure. As far as I can see, this design of soft shackle shouldn't ever become over-tight around the 'neck', and I can see now why the knot will never invert. But what I like best about this shackle design is that I can visualise it completely. That complicated diamond knot looks nice, but because it's more complicated, I'd always worry I'd got it wrong in some way. The double overhand knot is known to be very effective. I know climbers who will use a simple double overhand knot to join two ropes that their lives hang by. Ugly, but simple and reliable, ...and can be done with gloves on. I've watched a few tutorials on making soft shackles, and this is the best by far. It also convinces me that this is the best kind of shackle to use, (...unless you really must have a single-loop design for the sake of neatness.) The fact that is has 240% of line strength rather than say 130% presumably means you can use thinner line.
Paul Mackilligin thanks for the comments. For hammock use and camping use i feel this is stong enough with plenty of safety margin for all uses at any weights. I know people that have made dynaglide shackles this way and its good for them. The only complexity is that the thinner the cord the smaller the radius in the turns and therefore the weaker, also the bury length needs to be proportional the diameter of the cord so quite tricky.
I'm actually looking to replace all (most of) the nasty steel fittings on a sailing dinghy. Stainless steel shackles with clevis pins and those tiny, tiny spiral wire retaining clips (which can be lost forever even if dropped in a grassy field, let alone if dropped in the water) ...all that stuff has to go. Planning on replacing the wire shrouds with Dyneema too if I can. It's mainly for safety though, as the hard metal stuff can cause real injury when body parts collide with it. The cord you used in the video, what size was it? It looked about 6mm (?) I was thinking of using 4mm or even 3mm.
@@TacBlades Thanks I was thinking you said there was a weak spot where you spliced the adjustable Loop, so instead wouldn't a lark head hich be better?
I played with this a bit, and came up with a slight alteration that is even easier to make, and has a few additional uses. How can I contact you to show you? UA-cam doesn’t allow PMs any more.
what are the advantages to the this version with the two strands bare as opposed to the buried version that you have to milk? I understand the button knot vs the other knot but why no bury on the shackle length?
jbaker91585 the buried noose version under high loads can be very difficult to release, some put a thread inside to help to open but this is all too difficult in cold weather and cold hands. This version doesnt jam and is always easy to release just be pulling one strand.
![[How to] Make a Dyneema Deadeye | Sailing Wisdom](/img/n.gif)
Made 5 years ago and still one of the best how-to's. If you're still around, we'd love to see more.
Seems so much better than the button knot designs I've seen. Great job.
I've used this 'how to' as the template for IS-Shackles which replace all the very hefty steel shackles on a Jordan Series Drogue - a life-saver device for small boats in big storms. I'm using 12mm Dyneema, and with Dyneema anti-chafe woven tubing slipped on. It's idiot-proof, doesn't rot under UV, and I can double 'em up with a spare set which I've made.
this is awesome. I'm so glad i found your channel, even a few years after you posting. im now using these to hang catamarans in a toy hauler. the simplicity in this makes attaching the lift system a breeze and with larger ones running through a webbing tube i can securely store them for transport too.
This is why I watch a dozen videos before I make. A true gem.
This is the best way to make a Soft Shackle that I have seen so far.
Thanks from across the pond (Connecticut) USA. I’m a fond follower.
This is the best tutorial on this that I have found. Thank you so much
Love your design. It's simple and works well. I shortened the start length to 40". The end loop is 3" which is perfect for my setup. Thanks for the video!
This is the easiest way explained to make a soft shackle. Thanks. I made two sets for my hammock system. I'm leaving the metal carabiniers home.
This is, absolutely, the best soft shackle version. It's simple and easy to create and use.
This uses a knot that I can trust not to come undone, very important for hanging a hammock. I've heard reports of the regular soft shackles coming undone under tension--not a problem here since the ends are buried and run back through the knot. I used these to replace the heavy carabiners on my hammock suspension. Thanks for the excellent instruction.
Katherine Starbird thanks for watching. :)
Thank you Tac Blades. Following your video yesterday I made my first two dyneema Whoopie Slings, immediately changed out the webbing on my hammock-hanging in my living room as I sort it out for camping. Great video. This morning, in about 20 minutes I made my first Improved Soft Shackle. Really good instruction. Much appreciated.
Will Nettles no worries glad it helped you :)
Very well done and I really like that there are no loose ends. Cheers!
This appears to be so much simpler than tying and tightening a diamond knot, and stronger to boot! A little bit of protective sheath would make this perfect.
just starting with Amsteel hammock rigging and because of to your efforts...I'm successful ! Thanks from New Mexico.
That's awesome :)
I Liked this, so much so that when i was looking for a tutorial to make an EVO loop and failing to find one I realised it was essentially a soft shackle but without the slip/adjustable loop at the end. With 40" of cord you end up with about an 8" loop with the knot on the end.
What an eye opener. While I like my Dutch clips for my hammock tree straps, they do cost $$. These improved soft shackles have a less fussy open/close than the soft shackle that I've considered using for tree straps in my other hammock kits. Another advantage over Dutch clips: these won't take the paint off posts in urban hangs.
MEGA thanks!
Rope is fun!
No problem, ulta light, ultra strong, love them.
How does this compare to the button knot method?
Well technically the button knot is marginally stronger, but that is only the case if it is tied perfectly and also pre tensioned with a machine. In 99% of cases this doesnt happen and then this is much stronger.
Wow! Love this interaction between these 2 content creators: @MozzySails and @TacBlades
This is an extremely helpful video. Thanks so much for making it! At the end of the video, you said you would try the same method with lash-it or zing-it, but I haven't seen a follow up video. I did a bit of experimenting with 1.75mm lash-it and found that your method worked quite well. I settled on a 32" line length, 4" bury, and 1.25" loop.
Thanks Tac! This and your UCR video have both been super helpful. Great close camera shots and I really appreciate the details you share about sizing and length as you go along. It really helps me keep track of my own piece and keeps me at least close to where I should be.
Great video. Clear. Easy to understand. I found this method much easier than the button knot soft schackle (watched a lot of videos and wasted a lot of time trying to get the button knot right). I made four sets of theses for grand kids' hammocks in fairly short order. Also liked the celtic soft shackle version in the separate related video.
MTTAMcCall thats great these are much eaiser to make a safe knot too.
Tac videos are the best!! I’m learning a lot from your easy to follow video instructions. Please don’t give up providing such great posts.
From Jim across the pond in Connecticut.
Thanks for this Tac Blades. I have trouble with the button/diamond knot. Most elegant design.
It’s likely someone already mentioned this, but I can’t go through all the comments ->
If you tie a small loop in thinner cord around the “working part” (i.e. through the hole in the middle that you feed the longer part of the rope through), you can use it to open the shackle without fiddling, even with your gloves on. I doubt it degrades the shackle integrity much, if at all.
Thank you for sharing the knowledge, Tac Blades.
Are you sure that it applies to this style ?
I have so much trouble with crown knots. The idea that I can gain more strength and avoid tying one altogether is brilliant !!!
Thanks, it is simpler as its very easy to create a bad diamond knot that is weak but you cant tell, so this i think helps with that problem. :)
Would you use the same measurements on a larger diameter rope?
No it would all have to be adjusted, for lots of reasons, especially the back splices. Trial and error is a good way, but it would have to be tested to be sure.
I will use this as a backup schackle on my paraglider, would it be ok to make this schackle but have one line go inside the other like on some other schackles(not where the knot is)to elliminate the risk of the 2 loose lines caching on something? Dont know if i make myself clear but you have knot, 2 lines, loop. I want knot, 1 line, loop.
Hmm not sure because if the buried ends might not be possible also without testing i could not say how strong or safe it would be.
@@TacBlades oh yeah man my bad, i forgot about the burried ends. I did this schackle one year ago and had forgot that part. I see now as im watching the video again that its not possible.
Do you have any tips on ways to make this schackle secured when not under load? I just made one and i see now that its not ideal since it will be a backup and wont be under pressure until the main one snaps. Thinking about o-rings or something to make the lock stay in place.
@@rickardjonsson4526 no this kind of shackle is not designed for that kind of purpose.
Would you use this soft-shackle-tie procedure to make a larger shackle for winching ATVs and jeeps?
I would say no, mainly because they are only safe under load, if towing there is any slack in the line then it would be unsafe.
Check this out might be useful for you. ua-cam.com/video/E7-b0CJSyzY/v-deo.html
Jeez another fantastic video, thank you for sharing. Again I was able to follow, blind guy, absolutely awesome. Thank you Soo much.
The Blind Lock Picker
Rob in Connecticut😎
Wow i have only just realised what you wrote, i will bear this in mind for the future.
Any reason these couldn't be used as enhanced continuous loops? especially without the noose and a longer loop? I just got into whoopie slings and think this design has
a lot of potential.
I think they could not sure if you would need a bigger knot, am not really sure.
Easy and accurate details!
Thank you so much.
Thanks for this. Your instructions (and measurements) are very clear. Made some of these myself now. Excellent video - post some more!
Thanks, great stuff, they come in very handy :)
Perfect instructions. Great video. Thanks for putting it together and sharing. Looking forward to making some shackles for my hammock setup now.
Just made two following your instructions. It's a hell of a lot harder than you make it look! Lol Anyway, made two. They seem firm and strong, although I haven't tried them out yet. That'll have to wait for my next wild camp when they'll be used to join my hammock whoopie slings to tree straps. Fingers crossed! Thanks, great video, excellent design.
Very clear instructions. Thank you
Can someone answer, thanks if I want a larger loop do I just increase the overall length. I believe it’s for a 6 inch loop and I need 8 inch loop he has a 48 inch piece to make a 6 inch loop so do I just increase the length to make my loop 8 inch thanks again.
Yes just add what you want might need a bit of testing to get exact lenghts
Thank you for taking time to answer. I thought that’s what I had to do but a second opinion is always great
I know this is old video and hoping you're still monitoring the chat. Really enjoyed the video and hoping to make some of these but I can't find the tools you're using (which I like better than typical fids). Do you have some info or links that would help me track them down? Thanks!
Ty look for awl on amazon
A great vid. Could you use normal paracord for these, would it be easy? Atb Si
Well you can but would not have any strength
I use paracord ones for hanging stuff from trees and pack hangers.
@@TacBlades yeah, that's what I was thinking as I don't need strength of amsteel. Would these be made exactly as shown in your vid?
@@Ascent41 for paracord i prefer this style. ua-cam.com/video/r0SfPxJcACM/v-deo.html
@@TacBlades that's brilliant. Thank you. I will have a go. Keep safe atb Si
That is an excellent alternative, great video ! Thank you
I missed getting one of the buries long enough. Still a good knot. The overhand, though, is very big. I think I will stick with the button knot. I started with 60" and ended with a 3-1/2" shackle.
you presented it very well, im new to these types of knots and will be using them in vehicle recovery. i do have a question though,would it take the weak point away from the loop if there was a sheeps head there for the loop rather than going thru the center of the body of the rope? i hope i was clear, i dont know all of the terminology yet. thanks tim
I know what you mean but in testing it was weaker, when you compress dyneema in a knot it can reduce the breaking strain up upto 50% but i would definitly make a few and try both, i use a larks head sometimes, take care as it can jam under a lot of pressure.
@@TacBlades how are you testing these knots i am interested in this
@@TacBlades it is a larks head knot not a sheeps head knot i was talking about, someone called a sheeps head on a video. lol
if useing a larks head can you use a tab or strap under it to pull it loose? just thinking
Awesome video! Your way of making the button is very easy to follow and looks superior to the classic diamond button knot. Instead of doing the noose portion your way, I just made a lark's head on the opposite end of the button to serve as its lock. Doing this makes a stronger noose.
After commenting, I scrolled down and saw your comment about the Lark's Head squeezing the neck of the button which makes it weaker. It really makes sense! The beauty of your way to make the button is how easy it is to undo it. I will redo one "YOUR WAY" and have one with the Lark's Head and call it a day! Thank you so much for your awesome videos.
TAC Blades,
Just F.Y.I. I used two 36" long pieces of dynaglide to make my pair of shackles. With each piece I folded the length in half and then made my marks for the brummel lock on each end at 6" and then 7" to result in a smaller "tiny loop", but still maintaining a 6" bury per your instructions. This results in a shackle that is 3" long shackle that weighs ~2.5 gms. These shackles seem perfect for connecting my 7/64" amsteel whoopies to tree straps.
I am going to make a couple of these dynaglide improved soft shackles using your method (which I really like!!!) and send them to Dutch who had offered to do failure testing. I'm betting your 230% stronger claim is right on.
Andy
R. Andrew Moore, Just curious, what did Dutch find out regarding that load testing on Gary's (Tac Blades) version of soft shackles? ATB
How'd the tests go?
Hi, thanks for a great tutorial! What is the purpose of the center " locking" loop? Why not just make a larks head around the knot? I assume larks head affects the strenght but i'd like to know. Thank you
Ola Andersson you can larks head and it would be ok but it would loose a lot of strength, as the larks head compresses the cord and this is then weaker in theory, but i do make a larks shackle as well and its just fine :)
That actually seems simpler than the diamond/button knots I used before. With those I had to follow a step by step every time I made them. Course I only made 5 or 6 but still. This way uses a bit more rope but is stronger.
Thanks for the video! Which variant would take to make a loop of the same length, this or a button knot? I've tried to watch different videos and it's confusing, it looks like your method uses much more material to achieve the same length, or am i wrong?
It it using more material, mainly because i use the good length of bury for safety and also the end result is a much larger knot than the button knot so uses more material
I appreciate your essy to understand instructions. I do have one question: the specifications you provide are for a 4" loop, how would I calculate the measurement necessary for a 2" loop? Thanks
Not sure because of the length of the buries is minimum needed for knot and strength it might be the minimum size you would have to experiment.
Really cool Gary. I will give this a try. I haven't had a failure, but these are so lightweight and packable why not. Thanks and excellent video.
No problem, anything new with amsteel has got to be on the try list :)
Beauty. less wastefull and stronger than a diamond knot, thanks mate!
What length does the finished shackle end up? I want to make one that is 4" long so looking at this think I need to start with somewhat less than 48" of line. Great instructional video by the way, thank you.
Thanks for posting this, I finally got one of my required soft shackles done, about to make the second. The Button knot was giving me a fit.
Good work, thank you for your video!
Hey Mr. Tac Blades…glad to see you back (on your time to talk video) as worried a bit that you had succumbed to an event or health issue. Happily no and have used your previous videos such as this cone as a resource as you explain and demonstrate very well. Like I had read somewhere had you been my teacher way back in school I would have excelled.l Anyways while your off on the “watch” interest side of things to review would be interested also if you decided to include cuckoo clocks ….ha you not even started yet and getting requests. ?Take care and good to see you back.
Lou (Canada)
Wow i have zero knowledge of cuckcoo clocks, not even sure i have actually seen a real one in my whole life :). I am sure the viewers are not ready for the new approach i am going so buckle your seat bealts its going to be a roller coaster of a ride.
Thank you.. For the loop the knot goes through to tie up the shackle, I have used a sliding burry loop instead of splitting the amsteel and putting the strand through the hole as at 11:54 to make the "adjustable loop". Just wondering if this is stronger? Thanks again.
They both work, Its not stronger as you need a minium length of bury for stength. But with the bury type can be tricky to open in the pouring rain and sub zero with gloves on :)
Good points, thank you for the reply.
Should you still be around, I'm in North Queensland, Aus, where everything is slow. Hence the late request.
Guidance required, Where can I get a FID, for splicing Dyneema, as shown in your great video? AMAZONis probably my best source of gear.
Help, appreciated.
Cheers
RJT NQLD
Try searching for Awl on amazon
Wow, what a range of available products. Could you please narrow down the selection to what I would need to make shackles.
Cheers
Rodger
Great video!!!! Where can you buy the wooden handle marlin spike tool at?
Amazon look for awl, wooden handle awl or bookbinders awl
@@TacBlades Thanks again.
What are you using these soft shackles for?
Hammock suspension
Thank you.@@TacBlades
Very nicely done. I am a professional Stunt Rigger and I really enjoy your videos. This video is a bit dated so I ask you; is this still your preferred method for making soft shackles? Thank you for you very nicely presented and digestible work.
Cheers yes i still make them this way, i have not found better.
@@TacBlades Have you seen this new "universal loop" that Jeff Myers presented recently? I'd love to hear what you think of it (and compare it to "improved soft shackel"), and to see your DIY tutorial for it.
@@zbabic jeff has some great ideas and all the loop shackles and devices work pretty well. I like the improved soft shackle because its simple, anyone can make it and has never let me down.
i like this knot you made did you figure this out?
Its not my original idea it was the result of extensive academic research but was burried in a whitepaper, i just wanted to present it in a way that was easy to follow for everyone.
the best video tutorial!
That ending finish knot looks like a barrel or scaffold knot but passing the tail loops traps the finish. Very nice.
Would a bead on the adjustable loop to stop pull-through be usable, or would it prevent proper locking?
Is it possible to make a soft shackle out of double braid line 3/8?
Not sure and no idea of the strength would need testing.
Excellent. I can do the locked loop but have always had a problem with the diamond knot, so this looks actually easier for me. And I have a good length of lash it around to try with. Thanks.
No problem have fun :)
Thank you for the lesson! Very good. Maybe just one wish, if you could present your measures in both inch and mm. That would be a great help for us from Mars. Cheers!
Great video! Thanks. Question: For the adjustable loop, are you measuring "just over a half inch" from the outside of the loop or the inside? I assume inside, but, since dimensions are critical, I would like to be sure.
Jere Moore when you measure its just over half an inch on the outside measurement.
Thanks. I whipped up two of these pretty quickly. Easy peasy.
Great tutorial! super easy. I've made 2 sets. I have a question. What is the tan or wood handled tool you use to divide and widen the Amsteel with? Much better than what I use.
Thanks it's one of these
Handmade Awl www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01G699ZJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YST9CbS5G33E8
Should have guessed that would be a UK site, but I did find it on ebay for only $5.50 (US). I made 2 of these with 1.75mm zing it for hanging my tarp... FIDDLY! Thanks again!
Why would someone choose the Button Knot over this?
This video was very helpful to me. Thank you very much for all the effort you have put into it!
No problem glad you enjoyed it :)
Hi enjoyed video where can you buy Amsteel from and what diameter would you suggest thanks
+Mark Cairns dutchwear gear in the usa or dd hammocks in the UK 7/64th in or 2.5mm :)
Thanks for the video! What is the diameter of the rope that you have used in this video?
7/64th amsteel
Very good, please, can you Say to me where is the cord shop?
I use dutchwear gear usa and DD hammocks in uk
Hi, just watched the video, very impressed. Will this knot scale up to say 9/16 "s for use off road? Regards Nick
No idea but would he fun to try :)
I have got some 9 mm dyneema coming so will keep you posted as to how it goes.
love to hear your results. particularly overall lengths needed.
4' of line, how big of a loop does it make. You also made it look easy with your step by step thanks
Armando Veloz i think its about a 6in loop
Great tutorial thanks. If I want to make the loop shorter (for sailing) how does one vary the dimensions? Cheers
Graham Richardson you will have to experiment a bit, there is a minimum size due to the burries, if you use zingit or lashit it can go very small if it is strong enough0
Wow that was a quick reply! Thanks
How do you think this would work, in place of a continuous loop, binding the top of a hammock? Then you could open it up, attach directly to your straps, or the closed end of your Whoopies, or whatever. The knot at the top might even make for a good anchor for a Ridgeline?
Five Family yes it would work maybe need to make it a bit longer.
Tried it out, using your guide and measurements, worked perfectly for replacing the heavy cord and steel carabiner in my double. Thanks! Now I can skip the carabiner there altogether, and I think the knot will work good as an attachment point for a ridgeline.
Five Family awesome nice work :)
Thanks for the great video! I used a carpet repair needle instead of a fid or wire for a fish, worked great!
Hi there. Awesome clip, making it very clear and easy to follow. Wondering if you could provide the various lengths required for different diameters please? Apologies in advance if you have already provided.
jasequick you will need to experiment a bit i havent used many other diameters :)
Tac Blades so does that imply that all the buries etc are changed proportionately? If I reduce the overall length by half, then the buries are halved etc?
Tac Blades I’m thinking that most things (including the loops and buries) have to remain constant irrespective of the shackle diameter, in order to continue remain buried past the knot, and allow the rope to pass through etc. I think I answered my own question. 🤣🤣
jasequick yes keep burries same the burry length is a factor of diameter of cord and friction
Ok if I make one of these for my winch rigging out of 3/8 or 1/2 inch rope how long would it have to be? Pretty sure 48 inches will be way short. :)
consaka1 i have not made it from anything else so you would have to experiment.
I'm re-watching this playing with the soft shackle I just made.
Wow, a bit more line but so much easier to create while getting a much improved button
Wonderful video but I made one with a larger diameter dyneema & realized that the 'bury' & all the measurements are different for bigger line. Can anyone point me to a guide to measurements for different size line? Mahalo Chris in Hawaii
Brilliant video, great soft shackle. Great idea. Where did you get the amsteel? Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching, i import mine from america but you can get it from DD in the UK
So I think you did another version of this, but I can't seem to find it. Same thing but I think you had a prusik of some sort to lock it in
Very big knot
What if you make overhand on one end only?
Big knot is good.
Hi, I have a question about your version of the soft shackle: did you have it tested at the 230% strength or is that number based on l-36.com/high_strength_soft_shackle.php ?
I really like your version because of how the tails of the eye splices are throughout the knot and into the part that the loop goes around. This seems to eliminate the weak point of where the tails of the button knot get buried with the other version of the shackle.
I just found the answer: www.balancecommunity.com/slack-science/comparison-soft-shackle-methods/
Excellent video man, thanks for sharing!
Great video
Great video. Thanks
The part of the video where you don't show the second loop made at the end, are you passing the buried loop end through the second hole like you did on the first one? Is that possible given how large a buried rope would be?
Nevermind on this. After watching the entire video again, I see that you do actually pull the knot with the bury through the cord. I guess I need an all for this project. I didn't have one, and as it turns out, it's a difference maker in terms of being able to pull items through when they are double the thickness. thanks for the tutorial.
This is an amazing tutorial, thank you so much for sharing. I really like the tools you use, can you share a little about them and where we can purchase them.
Joe Moreno thanks you can find them on ebay, look for loop tuner 10" and awl both are very cheap.
Thanks again for this great tutorial. Used this method of making soft shackles for my Grappler Hitches on my hammock suspension. Brilliant! G-Nut
No worries thanks for watching :)
Excellent demonstration. I get it now. And because of the bury, the cord is also double-thickness where the loop tightens around it just behind the knot. As I understand it, that's also a common point of failure. As far as I can see, this design of soft shackle shouldn't ever become over-tight around the 'neck', and I can see now why the knot will never invert.
But what I like best about this shackle design is that I can visualise it completely. That complicated diamond knot looks nice, but because it's more complicated, I'd always worry I'd got it wrong in some way. The double overhand knot is known to be very effective. I know climbers who will use a simple double overhand knot to join two ropes that their lives hang by. Ugly, but simple and reliable, ...and can be done with gloves on.
I've watched a few tutorials on making soft shackles, and this is the best by far. It also convinces me that this is the best kind of shackle to use, (...unless you really must have a single-loop design for the sake of neatness.) The fact that is has 240% of line strength rather than say 130% presumably means you can use thinner line.
Paul Mackilligin thanks for the comments. For hammock use and camping use i feel this is stong enough with plenty of safety margin for all uses at any weights.
I know people that have made dynaglide shackles this way and its good for them.
The only complexity is that the thinner the cord the smaller the radius in the turns and therefore the weaker, also the bury length needs to be proportional the diameter of the cord so quite tricky.
I'm actually looking to replace all (most of) the nasty steel fittings on a sailing dinghy. Stainless steel shackles with clevis pins and those tiny, tiny spiral wire retaining clips (which can be lost forever even if dropped in a grassy field, let alone if dropped in the water) ...all that stuff has to go. Planning on replacing the wire shrouds with Dyneema too if I can. It's mainly for safety though, as the hard metal stuff can cause real injury when body parts collide with it.
The cord you used in the video, what size was it? It looked about 6mm (?) I was thinking of using 4mm or even 3mm.
Paul Mackilligin this is 7/64th amsteel, in uk this is 2.5mm see here goo.gl/KTpHgO 726kg breaking strain, you can get thicker tho, also floats :)
Oh, OK, a optical illusion then. It looked much bigger!
That is brilliant! Great video brother. I just got some on eBay that look similar to yours to use on my bridge hammock webbing to the tree.
KdawgCrazy many thanks that are fun to make :)
What diameter is the dyneema rope used in the video?
I am pretty sure it's 7/16th inch from America. Also 2.5mm from ddhammocks if you are in uk
What thickness of amsteel are you using? Looks like 1/8th
7/64th
@@TacBlades Thanks I was thinking you said there was a weak spot where you spliced the adjustable Loop, so instead wouldn't a lark head hich be better?
I made one, from 4mm x 120cm dyneema I got a huge knot and a 21cm long shackle (tail below the knot) and only 9cm closed shackle, measured inside.
I love this method!!! Thanks for great tutorial!! I will be making these soon!
I played with this a bit, and came up with a slight alteration that is even easier to make, and has a few additional uses. How can I contact you to show you? UA-cam doesn’t allow PMs any more.
Wow, that is super simple. I'm sure much easier than a diamond knot.
what are the advantages to the this version with the two strands bare as opposed to the buried version that you have to milk? I understand the button knot vs the other knot but why no bury on the shackle length?
jbaker91585 the buried noose version under high loads can be very difficult to release, some put a thread inside to help to open but this is all too difficult in cold weather and cold hands. This version doesnt jam and is always easy to release just be pulling one strand.
Tac Blades seems so. have you seen comparative test information on the two versions?
also, would I have any issue doing the button bury if I build a burried noose version?
jbaker91585 i put a link to the original research in the comments but since then unfortunately they have removed it from the internet.
jbaker91585 just checked looks like its back up again for now anyway.