Fantastic video as always Vince! I have a pegaso that could use some of those hashes. I wanted to suggest a hobby cheating video topic for a while now. It's a weird one, a bit hard to even explain. Whenever we see a tutorial about basic airbrushing, we usually see the most common mistakes (spider webs, splatter, etc) how to identify them, and how to fix/avoid them. It's a totally new tool, so it's normal to explain it that way. The thing is, for the brush, we have hundreds of videos where you disect all kind of techniques, how to execute them correctly. You usually talk about how to avoid common mistakes too...but you don't make those mistakes, so we don't get to see what they look like. And with the brush, those mistakes are often more subtle than those airbrush examples. Point being, sometimes it's hard to understand what we're doing wrong, because we're not able to identify the mistake we're making, and why it's happening. If we had a video showing them and exposing them, it would be really helpful, and probably a fun one for you to make.
I know that this model is old and not for a playing army or display. However during the first 2 - 3 minutes of the video, when it is just sitting on the table, it shows a perfect example of "What is a mold line and why we need to remove them before painting!" on the top of the saddle and horse. I know that this is totally off topic of the video, but I just felt compelled to say it. Ok now I'll finish watching my weekly Hobby Cheating as scheduled. As always THANK YOU Vince for this installment!
Thanks for the video Vince. I find a quick way to achieve a similar effect is a drybrush with just a little too much paint still on the brush, it will leave all those lines more or less automatically. It's just a little difficult to get just the right amount of paint left on the brush. I did of course NOT discover this by accident after not wiping my brush properly, and produce my nicest looking wolf miniatures yet this way. Happy little accidents are a Myth!
"That's how you add information to the model". I like that sentence (working in computer science, it echoes something technically different and yet fundamentally similar). Deep thoughts out there, Vince!
Thank you, I would love to claim credit, but I've heard others use it as well. In the end, the models that are communicating a larger amount of visual information are just going to feel more compelling. :)
Ivar Sørvig Skogheim It takes a bit longer but it’s worth it. Been painting fur textures on my Clanrats for awhile now. I think they look better that way.
Really effective look for an ungroomed or light-colored* horse or many other animals. For a well-groomed dark-colored horse, I'd use more of an NMM technique, since they show almost no fur texture at any distance and the hair oils give you strong specular highlights. * A light coat doesn't show speculars anywhere near as strongly as a dark coat, since a diffuse reflection from light fur is much closer to the specular in appearance.
I agree, if you had a more dark horse (like a dark black) it has a higher sheen and would use some of these same techniques but with a smaller volume and sharper transition.
This will be great for those ogor cats. Also could be worth a video on using shades/contrasts to create a more natural transition blend, and when to use it.
If I have a specific painting-"problem" (in this case painting the back of a centaur) I just need to go to the Vincepedia and find a professional way to solve it. I really like the way you teach and encourage people to try new methods and add them to their own style. Also kudos to you for not stuffing your videos with advertisement (looking at you squidspace et. al. ;-) ). This really helps me to find good tools/paints in good faith and adds to your credibility. Keep up the good work Meastro! My above mentioned centaur shall be black and I would like him not to brighten up to much. I was wondering if a very dark blue might do the trick (as a kind of sheen). Do you have another idea for this?
Freakin sorcery. That shit never works for me. NEVER. That mini -- probably wet with black paint -- is going to pop off that bluetak and tumble to the carpet in slow motion. EVERY. FREAKING. TIME.
@@shawnald "Freaking sorcery." Indeed. You've seen Vince wear his gold band, and hold it up next to various metallic paints, but you've never actually seen him throw it in a fire before, have you...? Now you know why he's so pale for an American with Italian ancestry. The ring changes its bearer, poor soul. I'm amazed he's stayed this friendly and helpful for this long with it on. I have no idea how the wraiths haven't found him ye.....................OH DEAR GOD NOOO!!! I DON'T KNOW WHERE HE IS........AAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!
So basically the same trick, just change up your colors (to white/grey for example) with the socks if you want them a lighter color. Basically, just keep doing the hashing method anywhere where you would see fur texture pronounced by the light.
Vince Venturella thanks, Vince! Makes sense. I can’t wait to give this a try. Side question... any chance on doing an painting seminars on the east coast? I know things are still pretty nuts, but not sure if there were any potential plans in the future
This is more of a question about texture in general but how would you do texture on a horsehair crest you'd see on spartans and eldar dire avengers? Would you do hatchmarks on the sides and stipple on the top?
Thanks for the vid Vince, I'm about to paint a centaur with a white horse body and I was wondering what you think would be suitable for the final washes/glazes as I think sepia has too much of a brown tone. Any thoughts would be welcome, Cheers.
In the end, with a white body, you might not need it, but if you did, you could use a thin contrast paint like a space wolve's grey or a very thin nuln oil applied cleanly.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks for that it gives me a direction to head in especially with the notion I may not need a wash at all; but the result of your wash just seemed to tie everything in that it looked like an essential step. Thanks again.
When you say that you're using the Sepia almost like a thin glaze, do you mean that you're thinning it down on the pallete prior to applying it, or just in the manner that you're using it?
Great Vid Vince. Once you tied it altogether with that shade it really sold it. Could you sell the effect further with using slightly different glazes or it doesn't work like that?
Probably just that, some mid greys from any range. Something like a Dark Warm Grey and light warm grey from Pro Acryl would be really nice, with maybe a small touch of white at the highlights.
how do you always come out with these right before I need to paint whatever the video is about? like a hobby prediction savant. also, thanks for the video
Hey Vince, great as always. I am painting a couple of birds and some parts of them have feathers but are smooth, like the stomach area would still have feathers but they are not modelled as they’re very flat and smooth on a real bird... I imagine it’s something like this technique that would work, but would you suggest something different, like making downwards pointing triangles rather than straight lines or would you still use straight lines like this? Cant figure out what would sell the look best, have you tried anything like that? :) thanks for your awesome content!
Hey Vince - I'm a quite new painter, and I feel like trying out this technique on a cow/bull, that I've base coated black with some lighter patches (Vallejo Model Buff) - I'm hoping to make the black areas black and to build the lighter areas up to a white. Any suggestions on colors to highlight the black, before applying a black wash? I'm thinking about using a blueish grey (e.g. Dark Sea Blue from Vallejo) as the first step up, and then moving to a lighter grey and then ivory. Does this sound decent? I'm hoping the blue will give a more interesting look than a flat grey? For the white areas, I'm thinking of using Light Flesh and/or White Grey from Vallejo and then going to Titanium White from Pro Acryl for the final highlight? Any thoughts/suggestions? The look I'm going for is basically the King Fu cow from Kung Pow 😅
What would be a good way to approach body hair/body fuzz? I'm trying to get some barbarians looking a bit less like something from a bodybuilder magazine.
So it's basically the same strategy, except generally you want to use a dark brown/black and make little lines that are mostly going in the same direction to be small chest hairs. You need an ULTRA sharp brush for 28mm and need to be making very, very thin lines.
I hate to be the guy who picks probably the hardest texture to do with this, but how would you do a brindle pattern? Particularly on something a tad bit smaller like a war dog.
So I would use a brown all over, and then hundreds and hundreds of tiny thin lines just like here, except that they would also use blacks and I would cross back and forth between brown and black.
Vince, how do you always know what video we'll need next?! On the MonkeysWithFire Twitch channel, we're painting horses all of August. I'm going to paint up a Preatorian Rough Rider.
@@zakhoskins6404 but that someone is always me! Am I hogging all of the relevance? Are the other 43,999 subscribers stuck with topics not relevant to what they're working on? ;o)
Fantastic video as always Vince! I have a pegaso that could use some of those hashes.
I wanted to suggest a hobby cheating video topic for a while now. It's a weird one, a bit hard to even explain.
Whenever we see a tutorial about basic airbrushing, we usually see the most common mistakes (spider webs, splatter, etc) how to identify them, and how to fix/avoid them. It's a totally new tool, so it's normal to explain it that way.
The thing is, for the brush, we have hundreds of videos where you disect all kind of techniques, how to execute them correctly. You usually talk about how to avoid common mistakes too...but you don't make those mistakes, so we don't get to see what they look like. And with the brush, those mistakes are often more subtle than those airbrush examples.
Point being, sometimes it's hard to understand what we're doing wrong, because we're not able to identify the mistake we're making, and why it's happening. If we had a video showing them and exposing them, it would be really helpful, and probably a fun one for you to make.
I udnerstand, I actually am planning out a "mistakes" video and how to recover, so hopefully that will cover what you're looking for.
@@VinceVenturella That's exactly what i meant :D
I know that this model is old and not for a playing army or display. However during the first 2 - 3 minutes of the video, when it is just sitting on the table, it shows a perfect example of "What is a mold line and why we need to remove them before painting!" on the top of the saddle and horse. I know that this is totally off topic of the video, but I just felt compelled to say it.
Ok now I'll finish watching my weekly Hobby Cheating as scheduled. As always THANK YOU Vince for this installment!
Yeah, all these old models I pull to do these little demos you are right, we didn't scrape mold lines as teens and it shows. :)
I am painting up my Old World Wood elf army and I am really excited to try this out on the stags. Thanks!
Great tutorial once again. Thank you for all of the knowledge you are imparting to me!
Thank you, always happy to help. ;)
Thanks for the video Vince. I find a quick way to achieve a similar effect is a drybrush with just a little too much paint still on the brush, it will leave all those lines more or less automatically. It's just a little difficult to get just the right amount of paint left on the brush. I did of course NOT discover this by accident after not wiping my brush properly, and produce my nicest looking wolf miniatures yet this way. Happy little accidents are a Myth!
Yep, if you are going for a little more speed, you can absolutely use a drybrush to get this same effect (though it's a little more dangerous). ;)
"That's how you add information to the model". I like that sentence (working in computer science, it echoes something technically different and yet fundamentally similar). Deep thoughts out there, Vince!
Thank you, I would love to claim credit, but I've heard others use it as well. In the end, the models that are communicating a larger amount of visual information are just going to feel more compelling. :)
How dare you call me out on procrastinating for not having your exact paints. Thanks as always for the great tutorials.
Always happy to help. :)
Since I’m working on dungeons and doggies I am prepared for this one lol! Thanks Vince!
Happy to help as always. :)
BRB, redoing the fur on all my 400 clanrats
Oof
They're now naked mole rats problem solved
See you in 2029. ;)
Ivar Sørvig Skogheim It takes a bit longer but it’s worth it. Been painting fur textures on my Clanrats for awhile now. I think they look better that way.
That’s an army I’ve always wanted and I love, but one I know I’d burn out on painting. Always a LOT of respect for people who can paint a Skaven army!
at first I didn't care for the paint job, but once you hit it with the sepia wash it really popped. great job
Sometimes you have to make it ugly and then pull it all together. :)
Great guide Vince, I've been learning a lot from your guides!
Glad to hear it! Always happy to help.
"Mr Superman is not home"
Thanks for the giggle mate and nice job as always
Always happy when people catch the occasional solid jokes and they land.
Very useful Vince! I’d like to see you cover “Glowing Coals” Thanks so much!
I'll add it to the list.
@@VinceVenturella Did you get around to doing the glowing coals/embers video yet? I did a quick search but it doea not seem so :(
SO HELPFUL! I have a gorgeous unicorn model, now I know how to paint him!!❤🐎🦄❤
Awesome!
The Tail lost in Time : The Vince Venturella story.
Love it. Truly, who knows where in the world that tail is now. :)
Really effective look for an ungroomed or light-colored* horse or many other animals. For a well-groomed dark-colored horse, I'd use more of an NMM technique, since they show almost no fur texture at any distance and the hair oils give you strong specular highlights.
* A light coat doesn't show speculars anywhere near as strongly as a dark coat, since a diffuse reflection from light fur is much closer to the specular in appearance.
I agree, if you had a more dark horse (like a dark black) it has a higher sheen and would use some of these same techniques but with a smaller volume and sharper transition.
Any chance we’ll see an updated video featuring those new Freeguild Cavaliers?
Nice sticker Vince! It's always a good thing to be prepared. Although I think its impossible to be prepared for anything.
Best to try. ;)
i have a few Centaurs on my desk where i can use this tutorial for. Thanks for this.
Glad it was helpful! :)
Another wonderful tutorial. If you're still in the mood to do Lumineth painting tutorials, may I ask for wood texture on smooth spear hafts?
I actually did a video on faux wood texture already. - ua-cam.com/video/VDeaCMaqhjU/v-deo.html
Skaven have strange skin/fur sculpt transitions I've always found difficult to paint. I'll try this, thanks Vince!
Awesome, happy to help. :)
This will be great for those ogor cats.
Also could be worth a video on using shades/contrasts to create a more natural transition blend, and when to use it.
Yep, I did the same technique on my Frost Sabres, they are so strange with those smooth bodies.
Lol this has helped a great deal.. even seeing the pros pop the figures off the handle..
Yes, the endless struggle to stay on the painting handle.
If I have a specific painting-"problem" (in this case painting the back of a centaur) I just need to go to the Vincepedia and find a professional way to solve it. I really like the way you teach and encourage people to try new methods and add them to their own style. Also kudos to you for not stuffing your videos with advertisement (looking at you squidspace et. al. ;-) ). This really helps me to find good tools/paints in good faith and adds to your credibility. Keep up the good work Meastro!
My above mentioned centaur shall be black and I would like him not to brighten up to much. I was wondering if a very dark blue might do the trick (as a kind of sheen). Do you have another idea for this?
Yep, some blue to blue-grey can be exactly what you need.
Uhm, unusual question, is that a cup of poster tack attached to a cork painting plinth? If so, how did you attach it to the cork?
Freakin sorcery. That shit never works for me. NEVER. That mini -- probably wet with black paint -- is going to pop off that bluetak and tumble to the carpet in slow motion.
EVERY.
FREAKING.
TIME.
@@shawnald lol, sorry bud. I usually use a pill bottle topped with poster tack, his setup in this vid was different and interesting.
@@shawnald
"Freaking sorcery."
Indeed. You've seen Vince wear his gold band, and hold it up next to various metallic paints, but you've never actually seen him throw it in a fire before, have you...? Now you know why he's so pale for an American with Italian ancestry. The ring changes its bearer, poor soul. I'm amazed he's stayed this friendly and helpful for this long with it on. I have no idea how the wraiths haven't found him ye.....................OH DEAR GOD NOOO!!! I DON'T KNOW WHERE HE IS........AAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!
Yeah, just a bunch of blu tack, you can get bunches in bulk, the base isn't cork, it's wood and the blu-tack sticks to it pretty easily. :)
@@VinceVenturella oh cool, ty man😁
Great video. Very handy technique. How would you suggest painting the muzzle or the socks?
So basically the same trick, just change up your colors (to white/grey for example) with the socks if you want them a lighter color. Basically, just keep doing the hashing method anywhere where you would see fur texture pronounced by the light.
Vince Venturella thanks, Vince! Makes sense. I can’t wait to give this a try.
Side question... any chance on doing an painting seminars on the east coast? I know things are still pretty nuts, but not sure if there were any potential plans in the future
You're the best Vince!
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
Ok, I understand the colors don't matter... but what colors would you use for.....
Thanks Vince! Awesome video!
Love it. ;) - Always happy to help. :)
This is more of a question about texture in general but how would you do texture on a horsehair crest you'd see on spartans and eldar dire avengers? Would you do hatchmarks on the sides and stipple on the top?
Yep, exactly that, I would also still build up those layered colors to give the impression of the value changes with light.
Thanks for the vid Vince, I'm about to paint a centaur with a white horse body and I was wondering what you think would be suitable for the final washes/glazes as I think sepia has too much of a brown tone. Any thoughts would be welcome, Cheers.
In the end, with a white body, you might not need it, but if you did, you could use a thin contrast paint like a space wolve's grey or a very thin nuln oil applied cleanly.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks for that it gives me a direction to head in especially with the notion I may not need a wash at all; but the result of your wash just seemed to tie everything in that it looked like an essential step. Thanks again.
When you say that you're using the Sepia almost like a thin glaze, do you mean that you're thinning it down on the pallete prior to applying it, or just in the manner that you're using it?
Yes to both, I am thinning it out, and then wicking the excess liquid away and applying it in a thin controlled fashion.
So if i were doing a cream/ ivory white horse what color wash would i use? Especially if i wanted to avoid using a normal black wash.
Something like a Seraphim sepia thinned down.
Great Vid Vince. Once you tied it altogether with that shade it really sold it. Could you sell the effect further with using slightly different glazes or it doesn't work like that?
You absolutely could, integrating other colors and tones with other filters and glazes.
Thanks for the video, great as usual :)
Quick question, what was would you use for mid grey and almost white horses?
Probably just that, some mid greys from any range. Something like a Dark Warm Grey and light warm grey from Pro Acryl would be really nice, with maybe a small touch of white at the highlights.
how do you always come out with these right before I need to paint whatever the video is about? like a hobby prediction savant. also, thanks for the video
Always happy to help. :)
Hey Vince, great as always. I am painting a couple of birds and some parts of them have feathers but are smooth, like the stomach area would still have feathers but they are not modelled as they’re very flat and smooth on a real bird... I imagine it’s something like this technique that would work, but would you suggest something different, like making downwards pointing triangles rather than straight lines or would you still use straight lines like this? Cant figure out what would sell the look best, have you tried anything like that? :) thanks for your awesome content!
Yeah, basically small triangle hashes much like this, I might do a whole video on feather texture sometime.
Hey Vince - I'm a quite new painter, and I feel like trying out this technique on a cow/bull, that I've base coated black with some lighter patches (Vallejo Model Buff) - I'm hoping to make the black areas black and to build the lighter areas up to a white. Any suggestions on colors to highlight the black, before applying a black wash? I'm thinking about using a blueish grey (e.g. Dark Sea Blue from Vallejo) as the first step up, and then moving to a lighter grey and then ivory. Does this sound decent? I'm hoping the blue will give a more interesting look than a flat grey? For the white areas, I'm thinking of using Light Flesh and/or White Grey from Vallejo and then going to Titanium White from Pro Acryl for the final highlight? Any thoughts/suggestions?
The look I'm going for is basically the King Fu cow from Kung Pow 😅
Yeah, those colors sound pretty good, you might not need to go that bright on the black, but you're in the right area here.
What would be a good way to approach body hair/body fuzz? I'm trying to get some barbarians looking a bit less like something from a bodybuilder magazine.
So it's basically the same strategy, except generally you want to use a dark brown/black and make little lines that are mostly going in the same direction to be small chest hairs. You need an ULTRA sharp brush for 28mm and need to be making very, very thin lines.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks for the help! Sounds like this would work well for arm and leg hair. Any suggestions for armpit hair?
@@kastyr1984 Same, just more hashes emanating from the centre.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks so much! I love your videos and have learned so, so much from them!
Nothing looks worse than just only plain brown on a horses' main body. thanks for this technique.
Always happy to help. :)
I hate to be the guy who picks probably the hardest texture to do with this, but how would you do a brindle pattern? Particularly on something a tad bit smaller like a war dog.
So I would use a brown all over, and then hundreds and hundreds of tiny thin lines just like here, except that they would also use blacks and I would cross back and forth between brown and black.
A tail lost in time; sounds like a Disney movie
It's so close to one right. :)
Thank ya Vince
Always happy to help. :)
Vince, how do you always know what video we'll need next?! On the MonkeysWithFire Twitch channel, we're painting horses all of August. I'm going to paint up a Preatorian Rough Rider.
44k subscribers and the Law of Large Numbers; someone will always have a video that arrives just in time when he posts a new video.
@@zakhoskins6404 but that someone is always me! Am I hogging all of the relevance? Are the other 43,999 subscribers stuck with topics not relevant to what they're working on? ;o)
Well, always happy to help. :)
Ok, ok. But seriously now, for a sandy horse, should I get Scale75 or Vallejo? I know there’s a secret there you’re not telling us.
S75 Fantasy & Game - Shadowfax Fur is the color you should use, but good luck finding it. Never seems to be in stock.
Oh you... ;)
That's a great technique for larger scales i.e. 54mm and up but for a 28mm or smaller it's out of scale. Good show for the tutorial though.
Sure, but sometimes the art can win and that's fun. ;)
Thanks vince... now i have to do this on 5,000 skaven!!!
So...A few hours work. ;)
“It will look like your horse is in jail” lol.
No one likes a horse jail. ;)
Sigh. This is really going to slow down my Rohan army...
But they will look great. :)
Vince paint an horse ass.
Me:"uhm, i could use that to paint the hairs of my girl!"
It's multi-purpose. ;)
Rare case of disagreement. On this scale just worry about values and have no texture at all for fur. Like what you are doing as always nevertheless.
Yeah, you don't have to at all, this can just be a fun option if you want to capture that texture. :)
Or somewhere in between. Only doing hashes on the last highlights can already make a big difference : )
Camera doesn’t really capture the effect. Looks like leather.
Hmmm...yeah, capturing small texture is always tough, the effect sells in reality. :)
@@VinceVenturella Is there a chance you could make a higher quality photo and post it somewhere online?
Great painting, deformed horse though 🐴
That poor 25 year old horse. ;)
jesus I painted this elven steed in 98
Yep, he's been around a WHILE. ;)