I love Jason's dry humor. In another video where he demos backpack strap assembly, he mentions that the process of getting the foam into the liner is much like putting on a condom, but without the dire consequences if you get it wrong. Hilarious!
I sure like your videos. I've learned a lot. Thanks. I too cut my project pieces with a heat gun. My poor man's heat gun is a old school Weller soldering gun. I stripped a 12 gauge copper electrical wire, bent it to the approximate shape of the Sailrite cutter attachment. I then gently flattened the cutting part of the wire with a hammer to mimic the cutting blade. Not too much or it gets too fragile. Inserted the wire into the two barrels of the soldering gun. Presto! A cheap cutter with two heat settings.
This video has been an absolute lifesaver for me! Thank you so much 🙏 I appreciate that you took the time to refill- it has been the best guide I can find for the project I am working on! I’ve made over 40 covers using this video as my template- thank you again!
I borrowed this idea for a Tyvek prototype..smaller version..I sewed twist ties saved from their first use bundling carrots etc-sewed into the seams to give the bag some shapability..Tyvek was wrapped around a lumber shipment we got. So much good stuff we throw away. Like to reuse it.
I just got an Ultrafeed LS1, and my first project will be a dust cover for it. Sailrite has a kit, which looks nice, but for me the real thrill comes from understanding and working with the concepts. I'm not anti-pattern, and I do learn from them, but part of me always feels like I'm putting together an Ikea gidget when I follow a pattern. Anyway, this world of turning 2d fabric into 3d useful stuff is fascinating. Thanks Jason!
Love the video! I agree it is very annoying when you have to re-shoot a video. Many times for me it is a lost video, lol. Also, love the alligator at the end, you are making me miss FL. Some things you just won't see anywhere else.
I'm planning on making a cover for an outdoor stainless steel cart. This tutorial was clutch!! Thank you so much for sharing your time, talent, and expertise with us. Much appreciated.
I learned about those at my first marine canvas job. We had several lengths of several common seam allowance widths at each machine. Really handy for things you do often! Thanks for being part of the channel!
I always look for the least start and stops and it would reduce the risk if uneven bottom edges. You could also Sew the sides together before you sew the hem.
Similar to your 1” ruler trick I have a metal yard stick taped to the top of my cutting table flush with the front edge using basting tape. I lay the cut piece on the table and butt it up against the yard stick. Then I lay a piece of 1” aluminium flat stock I bought at the hardware store on top of the cut piece and slide it until it also butts against the yard stick and mark the line It’s a really quick measure free to mark a 1/2” seam allowance. It really shines when mass producing parts
Yippee! A cylinder arm with binder set-up. I've got cylinder arm machine that I don't reg enough use out of and have thought of just dedicating it to binding. Thanks for another great video.
also just though it maybe worthwhile to make flat bar along he back edge of your work table through/under which you could feed the fabric your are using to make it lay flat on the table as you pul it down and across the table..sort of like a butcher paper tear strip but not for tearing in this case...jsut an idea
Thanks! It's one of the handiest things I've made. I have a video about how I made a similar one a few years back if you're interested to know more, working with Kydex is pretty fun!
Thanks! Things are slowly coming together here, although I still have tons to do to get it where I want it. Slowly but surely! Thanks for watching and commenting!
No other comment has raised the question... Where is your source for aircraft seat belts that can be turned into clothing belts...? do you use the attached webbing and just join it at the back, or just use the buckle and use a new length of webbing? One technique I have used in industrial grade covers (tool chests and machinery etc) is to sew in short cord (elastic rope) into a larger hem in the bottom, so that one the cover is in place, and is longer than the object that is usually on wheels or such, the elastic base hem gathers the cover in a little bit once in place - this stops it flapping around in windy conditions too, so can be used for outdoor furniture and such to make sure the cover stays in place better... as the elastic cord is basically enclosed anyway, it remains impervious to sun, rain etc, and it is easier than using eyelets and threading a cord through to gather the base in like is sometimes seen in boat upholstery...
Hi David! I actually bought that buckle brand new from Strapworks - www.strapworks.com/2-inch-aluminum-airline-seatbelt-buckle I don't believe they are rated for actual seatbelt use (aircraft or otherwise) but they look cool and are pretty cheap! I just sewed it onto some random webbing I had on hand, also purchased from them. I like the idea of an elasticated bottom on a cover, I'll have to try that sometime! Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@thejasonofalltrades I know that the US has many aircraft 'bone yards' and figured that some of these buckles might have been recovered from such a place, and put up for auction or some other avenue of disposal... Here in Australia, we have no such facilities really, not on the scale the US has... thanks for the link! I like to find (and repurpose) unusual stuff (esp. if it has a history - real and partly imagined (how many people a buckle from a 747 has secured in it's first lifetime before I gave it a second more gentle life as a belt?), something with a bit of patina, or if it is otherwise not easily obtainable, or that cost a lot and had high standards back when it was new) - from weaving strands of unusual material into floor rugs or upcycling hardware like this in everyday street wear... the project then inherits some history or energy in a way... I like using boat hardware too, using stainless steel or brass fittings on projects - not for a full-on steam punk look, but more of a utilitarian style - e.g. rings & hooks for attachment points...
Not sure if anyone has already asked this but when making a cover, how much bigger do you make the cover than the item, not including the seam allowance - 1/2"?
It might vary depending on how close you want the fit, the item being covered and the material being used, but 1/2" is probably great for most situations. In this particular case, the customer determined that for himself, but I've used 1/2" on other covers with great results. Thanks for the question (actually you answered it yourself lol!), and thanks for watching!
Great video. Thanks. For esthetics, I like to sew a top stitch all around to make the seam allowance lay in the best way for shedding water. It is difficult with, for example, a cover for two patio chairs measuring 40w x 30h x 15d. My machine is a Rex (far smoother and quieter than yours thanks to lubricating with Marvel Mystery Oil. Try it, and you will be amazed). Anyway, I have some 40 denier haystack tarps that were never used, and so they became my material source. It is like sewing aluminum and difficult with such a low and short arm, but I struggle it through to get my "decorative" top stitch. Do you know of any techniques to make that easier?
Hi! For a time, I made dust covers for audio equipment for a handful of customers. The covers are mostly to protect the equipment from dust, the material I used was overkill for this task but I had a ton of it and it was cheap. The people I made these for came to me primarily from a UA-cam review of a particular piece of audio gear that a good friend of mine reviewed, and in his review he showed the cover for it that I made for him. Thankfully, that well seems to have dried up; I made a tiny bit of money on the covers, but honestly not enough to be worth the trouble, and I've made so many of them there's no joy in the process anymore. I think there is a small market out there of people who want to protect some gear for which there is not an off-the-shelf solution, and for whom the expense of custom work is not a deterrent. A seamster looking to make a little (emphasis on little) extra cash and to hone their skills could probably still find that market; I am not currently looking lol. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Thx for the tutorial... Being a newbie stitcher, would be helpful if you had close up shots of your actual sewing as opposed to distant shots. Thanks again
Hi Jeff, Thanks for the feedback! I do try to mix up shots and get close-ups when I can, but sometimes I fail. Frankly, I need a camera crew, I miss a lot of shots because I don't realize the camera is pointed at my elbow until I'm editing. I truly appreciate constructive criticism, I'll try to dig a better job of getting close-ups in the future! Thanks!
It's DEFINITELY quieter with the servo motor. The table itself also seems to absorb some of the sound, but the motor made a big difference. The control is excellent, too. Thanks for watching!
Would they fit if they are the exact same measurements as the speaker? Do you have to add in 1/16" on each seam or something so it will slide over the equipment?
Great question! This particular customer has ordered a lot of things from me, so he adds a little to his measurements before he sends them to me, and I just make the seams hit the numbers he sends. Ordinarily, I would ask for precise measurements of the object to be covered, then I would add a little from there. Fabric will generally have some "give" to it (varying from fabric-to-fabric), and it may take some tinkering to figure out how much you need to add to make the cover go on and off easily but still fit like it was made for that object. I would probably add a bit more than 1/16" as that can easily disappear with even slightly imprecise sewing. Adding 1/4" might be a good place to start. You can always take a small Amazon box, shoe box or whatever you have lying around and use it to practice on, trying various amounts of "ease" until you have a fit you are happy with. You might want to try different fabrics, as well, to see if there is any difference. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Thanks for making the video! I'm new as well to sewing and I didn't see or hear what the weight of the fabric you use is. I assume it was from Big Duck Canvas, but what part number would be helpful for those of us who want to make a similar project. Also, I wish you could have showed us a close-up of the corners where the top and sides meet. I've read your response to similar comments already left here and I'm just echoing interest in this detail....
Hi Terry! The fabric I used on this project is 400d nylon pack cloth, sorry about that! I don't think Big Duck carries that specific fabric, but it is pretty commonly available at online fabric retailers like Rockywoods, Seattle Fabrics, Outdoor Wilderness Fabrics and others. Ripstop By The Roll doesn't seem to carry 400d nylon but they have many similar (probably superior) fabrics available, as well. At some point I will have to consider making a detailed tutorial on making a cover like this, I'm a bit swamped at the moment, though. Thanks for adding your voice to the chorus, that definitely helps guide my future video making!
@@thejasonofalltrades Thanks for the informative professional response. It’s great to feel heard and responded to in such a positive manor. I do appreciate you making these videos and sharing your experience and skills. After I left the comment, I was able to find your “The Fabrics I Use Most, And How A Craigslist Purchase Changed My Life”. I almost came back to delete my previous comment with this answer but you responded before I could and maybe a link in description to your video to The Fabrics I Use Most… would be helpful to others. I was able to find on the Sailrite channel how to fold the corners in their video “How to Make an Ottoman Using Foam - No Frame.” This may be similar to how you do it, not sure. I know there is nothing like actually trying to do it and seeing how much ( In my case) you don't know. Thanks again.
perfect video as I'm just about to embark on a few covers like this. if you wanted to make the side and top seams "flat felled", how do you get to the bits up in the corners? I've never figured out how to do flat felled seams on a project which has depth? (i don't know how else to call it) All the examples of flat felled seems online are conveniently two pieces of flat sample fabric being joined edge to edge, but like how do you do the entire eelngth of a pant leg as in jeans? or the edges of a "box" or cylinder? Thanks, love these videos!
Hi! The short answer is, I don't have a good solution. Long answer: I've done this on many, many covers of this style, and it's always hard, and never perfect. For a dust cover, it's acceptable, but the corners are always a mess. The best results I've gotten have been from felling the top seams before sewing the side seams. If there is an easier way to do this that will yield great results, I'd love to know what it is! Honestly, part of the reason I got the hot knife is to avoid felling the seams on these covers. If you're willing to use a different design, you could possibly make the cover in two pieces - the top and two ends as one piece, and have curves on the top corners of the side pieces. You might be able to fell the two seams around the curve and not have to deal with corners. I hope that helps, good luck and thanks for watching!
gave me some ideas - you always do - QUESTION - you ended up doing the trimming so where you put the staples didn't matter in the end but without the trim did the staples leave holes in that nylon? one of those times should you use clips or pins but I like that staple idea
Hi! In general, I always try to keep any holes from staples, pins, etc. OR basting tape residue in the seam allowances. With clips, of course, there is no danger of holes; however, they can also slip out. (I use clips often, too.) This particular fabric doesn't show the staple holes very obviously, but they are there, and I would not want to accidentally staple in the visible part of the product. What happens in the seam allowance stays in the seam allowance. Holes, glue, tape or whatever are generally fine as long as they are in the seam allowance. Even if I didn't trim part of the allowance off, I would generally be doing something to conceal the raw edges (flat-felled seam, binding, liner) that would cover any holes left in the allowance (by covering the seam allowance itself). I hope that helps! Thanks for being part of the channel!
I'm curious how you met the 3 stitches on the inside corners where 3 seams meet to a 3 sided point. Did all three stitches terminate in the same needle hole at the point. And how you addressed the bulk of all 3 seams meeting in 1 place at all 4 corners. I hope I articulated that clearly. Thanks !
Hi, Sorry, I thought I replied to this comment some time ago, my bad! This is very difficult to answer in writing. The short answer is where the three panels meet in the corner is the most difficult part of these covers. The collected seam allowance is somewhat unsightly and bulky, and I haven't yet found or learned a method to make it come out perfect. I usually hot knife as much bulk as I can. Since these are just dust covers, having a perfect interior isn't as important to me as in something like a bag (where I would use binding and/or a liner to finish the interior). I have some more of these to make soon, if I can capture any helpful details of that part of the construction, I'll try to make a video about it. Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades Thank you my friend ! That bulk that you speak of has hounded me for years. Sometimes I'll have to resort to creative ways to make a 3 sided corner with less bulk.
Google/UA-cam is said to know more about me than I am myself. Either that is not true, or I have a cat that I don't know I have. In these videos I *always* get commercials for cat food. And I know for sure I don't eat cat food. I am pretty sure they analyze the content of the videos uploaded by thejasonofalltrades though.
Hi! I could probably salvage some footage that way, but a lot of my footage is of me talking directly to camera, and that is more difficult to make work with a voiceover. Frankly, I'd like to do more voiceovers in my videos, as I think they can add a more professional appearance. They also add quite a bit of work, though. Thanks for the suggestion, and thanks for watching!
Unfortunately, I can't bring the cats to work :( I will still be shooting some of my videos from home, and the cats will inevitably make appearances from time to time. You'll just have to keep your eyes out! Thanks for watching!
![Дон ДОН, Алаудинов и СБЕЖАВШИЕ из под Курска ахматовцы 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dEfCf5IK26Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video! As a guy new to sewing, I find your videos very inspirational and informative. Your sarcasm and dry sense of humor are appreciated.
Thanks Dave!
I love Jason's dry humor. In another video where he demos backpack strap assembly, he mentions that the process of getting the foam into the liner is much like putting on a condom, but without the dire consequences if you get it wrong. Hilarious!
I sure like your videos. I've learned a lot. Thanks. I too cut my project pieces with a heat gun. My poor man's heat gun is a old school Weller soldering gun. I stripped a 12 gauge copper electrical wire, bent it to the approximate shape of the Sailrite cutter attachment. I then gently flattened the cutting part of the wire with a hammer to mimic the cutting blade. Not too much or it gets too fragile. Inserted the wire into the two barrels of the soldering gun. Presto! A cheap cutter with two heat settings.
This video has been an absolute lifesaver for me! Thank you so much 🙏 I appreciate that you took the time to refill- it has been the best guide I can find for the project I am working on! I’ve made over 40 covers using this video as my template- thank you again!
I borrowed this idea for a Tyvek prototype..smaller version..I sewed twist ties saved from their first use bundling carrots etc-sewed into the seams to give the bag some shapability..Tyvek was wrapped around a lumber shipment we got. So much good stuff we throw away. Like to reuse it.
Good for you!
I just got an Ultrafeed LS1, and my first project will be a dust cover for it. Sailrite has a kit, which looks nice, but for me the real thrill comes from understanding and working with the concepts. I'm not anti-pattern, and I do learn from them, but part of me always feels like I'm putting together an Ikea gidget when I follow a pattern. Anyway, this world of turning 2d fabric into 3d useful stuff is fascinating. Thanks Jason!
Thank you so much! I like your laid back style of explanation
Love the video! I agree it is very annoying when you have to re-shoot a video. Many times for me it is a lost video, lol. Also, love the alligator at the end, you are making me miss FL. Some things you just won't see anywhere else.
I'm planning on making a cover for an outdoor stainless steel cart. This tutorial was clutch!! Thank you so much for sharing your time, talent, and expertise with us. Much appreciated.
Thanks for the tip about the 1/2 aluminum stock-strip.
I use machinist rulers and pocket scales but they are not that long.
I learned about those at my first marine canvas job. We had several lengths of several common seam allowance widths at each machine. Really handy for things you do often!
Thanks for being part of the channel!
I always look for the least start and stops and it would reduce the risk if uneven bottom edges. You could also Sew the sides together before you sew the hem.
Similar to your 1” ruler trick I have a metal yard stick taped to the top of my cutting table flush with the front edge using basting tape. I lay the cut piece on the table and butt it up against the yard stick. Then I lay a piece of 1” aluminium flat stock I bought at the hardware store on top of the cut piece and slide it until it also butts against the yard stick and mark the line
It’s a really quick measure free to mark a 1/2” seam allowance. It really shines when mass producing parts
Thanks for sharing, that's a great idea!
Yippee! A cylinder arm with binder set-up. I've got cylinder arm machine that I don't reg enough use out of and have thought of just dedicating it to binding. Thanks for another great video.
Thanks Lou! Yeah, I'm pretty happy about that one, looking forward to using it soon!
I like these videos a lot. Straightforward, useful projects. I’m starting experiments with Tyvek. New sewer.
Cheers
also just though it maybe worthwhile to make flat bar along he back edge of your work table through/under which you could feed the fabric your are using to make it lay flat on the table as you pul it down and across the table..sort of like a butcher paper tear strip but not for tearing in this case...jsut an idea
That's a great idea! I've used a similar arrangement in shops I've worked for in the past. I might have to try making one :)
That is one rugged scissor holster/chatelaine!
Thanks! It's one of the handiest things I've made. I have a video about how I made a similar one a few years back if you're interested to know more, working with Kydex is pretty fun!
Great job J !!
Can't wait to see your new machine. I want a similar machine as well.
Great video Jason! Thank you!
Thank YOU for watching!
Great work space Jason...really like your cutting table!
Thanks! Things are slowly coming together here, although I still have tons to do to get it where I want it. Slowly but surely!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
No other comment has raised the question... Where is your source for aircraft seat belts that can be turned into clothing belts...? do you use the attached webbing and just join it at the back, or just use the buckle and use a new length of webbing?
One technique I have used in industrial grade covers (tool chests and machinery etc) is to sew in short cord (elastic rope) into a larger hem in the bottom, so that one the cover is in place, and is longer than the object that is usually on wheels or such, the elastic base hem gathers the cover in a little bit once in place - this stops it flapping around in windy conditions too, so can be used for outdoor furniture and such to make sure the cover stays in place better... as the elastic cord is basically enclosed anyway, it remains impervious to sun, rain etc, and it is easier than using eyelets and threading a cord through to gather the base in like is sometimes seen in boat upholstery...
Hi David!
I actually bought that buckle brand new from Strapworks - www.strapworks.com/2-inch-aluminum-airline-seatbelt-buckle
I don't believe they are rated for actual seatbelt use (aircraft or otherwise) but they look cool and are pretty cheap! I just sewed it onto some random webbing I had on hand, also purchased from them.
I like the idea of an elasticated bottom on a cover, I'll have to try that sometime!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@thejasonofalltrades I know that the US has many aircraft 'bone yards' and figured that some of these buckles might have been recovered from such a place, and put up for auction or some other avenue of disposal... Here in Australia, we have no such facilities really, not on the scale the US has... thanks for the link! I like to find (and repurpose) unusual stuff (esp. if it has a history - real and partly imagined (how many people a buckle from a 747 has secured in it's first lifetime before I gave it a second more gentle life as a belt?), something with a bit of patina, or if it is otherwise not easily obtainable, or that cost a lot and had high standards back when it was new) - from weaving strands of unusual material into floor rugs or upcycling hardware like this in everyday street wear... the project then inherits some history or energy in a way... I like using boat hardware too, using stainless steel or brass fittings on projects - not for a full-on steam punk look, but more of a utilitarian style - e.g. rings & hooks for attachment points...
Not sure if anyone has already asked this but when making a cover, how much bigger do you make the cover than the item, not including the seam allowance - 1/2"?
It might vary depending on how close you want the fit, the item being covered and the material being used, but 1/2" is probably great for most situations. In this particular case, the customer determined that for himself, but I've used 1/2" on other covers with great results.
Thanks for the question (actually you answered it yourself lol!), and thanks for watching!
Great video. Thanks. For esthetics, I like to sew a top stitch all around to make the seam allowance lay in the best way for shedding water. It is difficult with, for example, a cover for two patio chairs measuring 40w x 30h x 15d.
My machine is a Rex (far smoother and quieter than yours thanks to lubricating with Marvel Mystery Oil. Try it, and you will be amazed).
Anyway, I have some 40 denier haystack tarps that were never used, and so they became my material source. It is like sewing aluminum and difficult with such a low and short arm, but I struggle it through to get my "decorative" top stitch.
Do you know of any techniques to make that easier?
I did this for my Vitamix!
That's a GREAT idea!
Hi, nice cutting table! Why do people need covers? Is that a common request? Are these for outdoors?
Hi!
For a time, I made dust covers for audio equipment for a handful of customers. The covers are mostly to protect the equipment from dust, the material I used was overkill for this task but I had a ton of it and it was cheap. The people I made these for came to me primarily from a UA-cam review of a particular piece of audio gear that a good friend of mine reviewed, and in his review he showed the cover for it that I made for him. Thankfully, that well seems to have dried up; I made a tiny bit of money on the covers, but honestly not enough to be worth the trouble, and I've made so many of them there's no joy in the process anymore.
I think there is a small market out there of people who want to protect some gear for which there is not an off-the-shelf solution, and for whom the expense of custom work is not a deterrent. A seamster looking to make a little (emphasis on little) extra cash and to hone their skills could probably still find that market; I am not currently looking lol.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Thx for the tutorial... Being a newbie stitcher, would be helpful if you had close up shots of your actual sewing as opposed to distant shots. Thanks again
Hi Jeff,
Thanks for the feedback! I do try to mix up shots and get close-ups when I can, but sometimes I fail. Frankly, I need a camera crew, I miss a lot of shots because I don't realize the camera is pointed at my elbow until I'm editing.
I truly appreciate constructive criticism, I'll try to dig a better job of getting close-ups in the future!
Thanks!
I don't know if that motor makes less noise, but it certainly is less annoying. Thanks for the video.
It's DEFINITELY quieter with the servo motor. The table itself also seems to absorb some of the sound, but the motor made a big difference. The control is excellent, too.
Thanks for watching!
Would they fit if they are the exact same measurements as the speaker? Do you have to add in 1/16" on each seam or something so it will slide over the equipment?
Great question! This particular customer has ordered a lot of things from me, so he adds a little to his measurements before he sends them to me, and I just make the seams hit the numbers he sends. Ordinarily, I would ask for precise measurements of the object to be covered, then I would add a little from there. Fabric will generally have some "give" to it (varying from fabric-to-fabric), and it may take some tinkering to figure out how much you need to add to make the cover go on and off easily but still fit like it was made for that object.
I would probably add a bit more than 1/16" as that can easily disappear with even slightly imprecise sewing. Adding 1/4" might be a good place to start. You can always take a small Amazon box, shoe box or whatever you have lying around and use it to practice on, trying various amounts of "ease" until you have a fit you are happy with. You might want to try different fabrics, as well, to see if there is any difference.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades Thank you for your reply! This is very helpful.
Thanks for making the video! I'm new as well to sewing and I didn't see or hear what the weight of the fabric you use is. I assume it was from Big Duck Canvas, but what part number would be helpful for those of us who want to make a similar project. Also, I wish you could have showed us a close-up of the corners where the top and sides meet. I've read your response to similar comments already left here and I'm just echoing interest in this detail....
Hi Terry!
The fabric I used on this project is 400d nylon pack cloth, sorry about that! I don't think Big Duck carries that specific fabric, but it is pretty commonly available at online fabric retailers like Rockywoods, Seattle Fabrics, Outdoor Wilderness Fabrics and others. Ripstop By The Roll doesn't seem to carry 400d nylon but they have many similar (probably superior) fabrics available, as well.
At some point I will have to consider making a detailed tutorial on making a cover like this, I'm a bit swamped at the moment, though. Thanks for adding your voice to the chorus, that definitely helps guide my future video making!
@@thejasonofalltrades Thanks for the informative professional response. It’s great to feel heard and responded to in such a positive manor. I do appreciate you making these videos and sharing your experience and skills.
After I left the comment, I was able to find your “The Fabrics I Use Most, And How A Craigslist Purchase Changed My Life”. I almost came back to delete my previous comment with this answer but you responded before I could and maybe a link in description to your video to The Fabrics I Use Most… would be helpful to others.
I was able to find on the Sailrite channel how to fold the corners in their video “How to Make an Ottoman Using Foam - No Frame.” This may be similar to how you do it, not sure. I know there is nothing like actually trying to do it and seeing how much ( In my case) you don't know. Thanks again.
perfect video as I'm just about to embark on a few covers like this. if you wanted to make the side and top seams "flat felled", how do you get to the bits up in the corners? I've never figured out how to do flat felled seams on a project which has depth? (i don't know how else to call it) All the examples of flat felled seems online are conveniently two pieces of flat sample fabric being joined edge to edge, but like how do you do the entire eelngth of a pant leg as in jeans? or the edges of a "box" or cylinder? Thanks, love these videos!
Hi!
The short answer is, I don't have a good solution.
Long answer: I've done this on many, many covers of this style, and it's always hard, and never perfect. For a dust cover, it's acceptable, but the corners are always a mess. The best results I've gotten have been from felling the top seams before sewing the side seams. If there is an easier way to do this that will yield great results, I'd love to know what it is!
Honestly, part of the reason I got the hot knife is to avoid felling the seams on these covers.
If you're willing to use a different design, you could possibly make the cover in two pieces - the top and two ends as one piece, and have curves on the top corners of the side pieces. You might be able to fell the two seams around the curve and not have to deal with corners.
I hope that helps, good luck and thanks for watching!
gave me some ideas - you always do - QUESTION - you ended up doing the trimming so where you put the staples didn't matter in the end but without the trim did the staples leave holes in that nylon? one of those times should you use clips or pins but I like that staple idea
Hi!
In general, I always try to keep any holes from staples, pins, etc. OR basting tape residue in the seam allowances. With clips, of course, there is no danger of holes; however, they can also slip out. (I use clips often, too.)
This particular fabric doesn't show the staple holes very obviously, but they are there, and I would not want to accidentally staple in the visible part of the product.
What happens in the seam allowance stays in the seam allowance. Holes, glue, tape or whatever are generally fine as long as they are in the seam allowance. Even if I didn't trim part of the allowance off, I would generally be doing something to conceal the raw edges (flat-felled seam, binding, liner) that would cover any holes left in the allowance (by covering the seam allowance itself).
I hope that helps! Thanks for being part of the channel!
I'm curious how you met the 3 stitches on the inside corners where 3 seams meet to a 3 sided point. Did all three stitches terminate in the same needle hole at the point. And how you addressed the bulk of all 3 seams meeting in 1 place at all 4 corners. I hope I articulated that clearly. Thanks !
Hi,
Sorry, I thought I replied to this comment some time ago, my bad!
This is very difficult to answer in writing. The short answer is where the three panels meet in the corner is the most difficult part of these covers. The collected seam allowance is somewhat unsightly and bulky, and I haven't yet found or learned a method to make it come out perfect. I usually hot knife as much bulk as I can. Since these are just dust covers, having a perfect interior isn't as important to me as in something like a bag (where I would use binding and/or a liner to finish the interior).
I have some more of these to make soon, if I can capture any helpful details of that part of the construction, I'll try to make a video about it.
Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades Thank you my friend ! That bulk that you speak of has hounded me for years. Sometimes I'll have to resort to creative ways to make a 3 sided corner with less bulk.
Google/UA-cam is said to know more about me than I am myself. Either that is not true, or I have a cat that I don't know I have. In these videos I *always* get commercials for cat food. And I know for sure I don't eat cat food.
I am pretty sure they analyze the content of the videos uploaded by thejasonofalltrades though.
You can still use your old video and just do a voice over.
Hi!
I could probably salvage some footage that way, but a lot of my footage is of me talking directly to camera, and that is more difficult to make work with a voiceover. Frankly, I'd like to do more voiceovers in my videos, as I think they can add a more professional appearance. They also add quite a bit of work, though.
Thanks for the suggestion, and thanks for watching!
No cat fuzzing up the works? Now I'm worried :s
Unfortunately, I can't bring the cats to work :(
I will still be shooting some of my videos from home, and the cats will inevitably make appearances from time to time. You'll just have to keep your eyes out!
Thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades ah I didn't know this was filmed at work. Glad to hear the cats are fine 😊