Six or eight years ago, I decided to make a new hunting pack. I had been sewing for some time and had made a number of outdoor projects. I had several older sewing machines, mostly Kenmore, but nothing with a walking foot. For my new pack, I used mostly 500d and 1000d Cordura and webbing. I was able to make my prototype and then a couple more like it. I've used it every year and have not had any failures, but many of the stitches were pretty ugly, mostly on the bobbin side. I've often thought about buying a walking foot machine, but I don't do enough of this type of sewing to really justify the purchase. That being said, I'm looking at the machines and particularly the Sailrite LSZ-1. The price of a new machine isn't that much higher than the used machines and there may be a best of both worlds deal with the Sew and Go Bundle. With that you get a portable machine, a table and a servomotor drive. Even with the table, it shouldn't be too difficult to move the whole package around. It strikes me that I would be unlikely to remove the machine from the table and use the portable setup, but it's there. Straight stitching and bar tacks will do most of the things that I want to do. I haven't made up my mind, but watching your videos has rekindled my interest.
If one uses materials that can fray, the zig zag is handy. Sometimes I will straight stitch then resew in the seam allowance using a zig zag to stop fraying. The zig zag can be set for a long stitch as it does not actually hold the seam together.
I love my triple feed 1541S Titan. It made a huge difference in sewing gear and pouches. The needle feed in addition to walking food keeps multiple layers together while I see.
This video inspired me to go vintage for my first machine. Today I picked up a sweet little Singer 401a for free that looks like it just needs a bit of a cleanup. Thanks, man!
I sew since 2+ decades for my hobbies: Kites (modern single line kites as well as replicas of historical models) and Bushcraft items like Tarp, Tent, Hammock, Backpack, Outdoor-hoodie (made of 100% wool blanket), countless bags and pouches, foldable Stools, and many more. I frequently sew different fabrics, from finest silk to mosquito-mesh to cotton, also countless synthetic fabrics, denim (of course) up to heaviest canvas with reinforcements of leather or reinforced attachment-points/loops of multiple layers of seat belt from the local car recycling station. I prefer the vintage Bernina sewing machines, not only because thy are well manufactured and reliable (many other Manufacturers in that eras had pretty good machines too) but because some of them (many of the "Record" models) have the knee lever function for lifting the sewing foot. I'm used to this function since I've started sewing and I absolutely adore having both hands on my workpiece. Mobility of the sewing machine is not an important factor for me. That makes my personal Nr.1 sewing machine the Bernina class 117. She's got everything I need and nothing that distracts me from my sew-work. I can use mine as a treadle machine or with an electric (125 watts) motor. She can sew up to 12-14 layers of Denim. Full metal mechanics, built to last. If I have a sewing task that requires even more power, I use my other Bernina, a 217-industrial. That's a beast of a sewing machine! Except multiple layers of shoe-leather, she can sew almost everything. Normal fabrics she sews up to 2700 stitches per minute. But in 95% of my sewing tasks, I prefer the 70+ Year old KL-117. She runs so smooth! More and more I use her in treadling mode. Having it sewed by muscle power gives another level of satisfaction when the task is accomplished.
Great job, thx I appreciate the content and education you provide.❤ love the guitars too. I picked up two industrial sewing machines . One is Singer oil cooled and a Juki Dl 555, I’m still learning about the sewing machines and will learn to sew with them. I hand sew leather. Love the videos Jason .
I have a Singer 237, and it does have a nylon gear inside of the tensioning guide. On mine the gear is split in two pieces, but it still works in that condition.
Hey…. It’s newer than your baseline, but my beloved all metal 1990s Bernina 1010 is pretty awesome too! My mum got me a dressmaker like yours recently at her op shop, branded as a Toyota Super Deluxe… that’s pretty sweet too! I also have an Elna Grasshopper, Singer 15-91, Husqvarna 21e that i ♥️… But I also adore my very first machine which is a plastic cheap Brother NS10… it’s plain, no frills but because it was my first, I can make it sing… I can drive that baby like a $5000+ embroidery machine freemotion even tho it’s not one…. and it loves cheap thread and I own all the accessories and she does a nicer triple stitch than almost any machine I’ve seen…. but yeah, she hates layers! And then, ofc, there’s my mid-heavy compound wf industrial I use to make bags. 🤗🤗 Seven… I have 7 machines!
Great overview of capabilities and good thought process of being sensible with the options. I have a variety of machines including similar models to what you have. I had intended to buy the new Consew RB206, but ended up going with the Juki 1541S because the price was the same during the pandemic. It is a HUGE, HEAVY machine and took 2 guys to lift it into the table. I got casters on the table so I can easily move it around. I didn't want to go used on the industrial because I can't take it in for repair. I have purchased numerous plastic box store machines, but moving forward if I can find a vintage metal machine for the purpose I need, that's the way I will go. The new plastic machines seem to be disposable. My serger, coverstitch and embroidery machines are all plastic and I use them carefully. TFS
For years, I held a low opinion of modern, inexpensive sewing machines. I recently (begrudgingly) bought a Singer Heavy Duty machine with the express intent of testing it and showing how inferior it is to vintage machines. It has now become one of my favorite machines. I still think vintage machines are the least expensive way to try sewing if one wants to dabble in it but isn't committed enough to spend $100+, and there are other arguments to be made for whether vintage or modern is a better overall choice, but your point is a good one to add. Maybe I should update this video :) Thanks for adding to the conversation!
@thejasonofalltrades for sure! Last fall I started on my moms old singer athena 2000 she had given to my wife years ago. This spring my daughter let me try her new 4430 (i think the number) and I love it. Surprisingly it sews through 2-3 oz leather and wool, I was very impressed!
Love these heavy info vids. I have a sailrite LS1 too and love it for many reasons (able to hand crank and sew without power). I bought that machine to use for my business of making waxed canvas and leather goods. Prior to that I was only making and selling leather goods and stitching by hand. The LS1 in my opinion isn’t a leather machine. I have the heavier fly wheel on in too. Tandy/Sailrite has their upgraded leather machine with a stronger motor. Maybe it’s more capable ? I decided to upgrade to a Juki 1508N after a year for my leather and heavier canvas/waxed goods. It’s much more capable than the LS1. But it still lacks power and could benefit from a speed reducer when sewing veg tan leather. No regrets buying either machines. But if someone was really interested in making utility goods, and had some experience on sewing machines, I’d recommend getting an industrial machine from the start. It was super frustrating having designs in my head that I couldn’t make on the LS1. And I always found myself adjusting the tension knob when transitioning from different layer counts. Coming from sewing by hand I guess I’m super attentive to thread tension. And I have nightmares about it. Haha
My GF got me a Husky Viking Emerald 116 for my BD right before I went into design school. I've not used it too much tbh. I'm wondering if it's good for this sort of thing? I've always thought the Husky's were good all-purpose machines, but I'm not sure.
I have 4 machines with a 5th on the way. Each has a different purpose. Sewing, computerized embroidery, coverstitch, overlock/serger and now Industrial triple feed. I think for garments especially, having a zig zag is an essential for a domestic machine for button holes, stretch stiches or to prevent frayed edges, especially if you don't own an overlock machine. My domestic can't handle leather, heavy canvas or upholstery It also struggles with some of my thicker quilts seams on quilts. This is why I am adding an Industrial. I considered the Sailrite Consew and Juki. I tried to pick up a used Consew 206 locally, but that didn't work out. Going with the Juki 1541S. TFS
One of my fave old machines was my 41 Montgomery ward machine it Was a singer class 15 machine. Now I’m using a Juki tl 2000 and a tl -18 Qvp both great straight stitch machines thanks for the video..
I’am going through this as we speak dropped my pfaff off today to see if it can be fixed it’s now out of timing . I see a lot and my issue is that every sewing machine that I have owned does not like to use my number 30 thread . Definitely looking for another vintage sewing machine just not sure if it’s time to jump up to a more substantial industrial for my thick threads and heavy material. I owned a newer domestic machine and they are definitely junk even the hooks on the drop in bobbin was plastic and not metal.
I bought all janomes, I'm a hobbyist, quilt, clothes, garden bags, purses, I love them, I would have loved a Juki but didn't have the space for it, and I didn't want to deal with the oil pans, and I have had janome for years, familiar with all the parts, didn't want to buy new accessories. Would love to have one of those decorative older models to put out on a shelf, (I have small jewelry box styles for decoration), but I don't know if I should really spend tons of money on it, I would rather buy fabric, fabricholic here.
Dig it man! If I may throw in my $0.02 I'm not a full time seamster by any means... but I do fabrication work as a part of my job in the military, making/modifying survival gear and performing parachute repairs. We have many, many different machines.. and like Jason says, the 206RB is the boss, we also have a Sailrite machine that's also the big dog's balls.. At home I do quite a lot of fabricating of sailing gear, sail repair, boat upholstery, bushcrafting gear etc... For my needs personally, I couldn't do better than the Sailrite LSZ-1, which is the same model as Jason's red Sailrite but with the zig-zag ability as well as straight stitch. I pretty much NEED the zig-zag option for the sail repairs, but I've also made a number of hammocks with it, which also needs a zig-zag for best performance (although I had to change needle/thread size). So for me its a super versatile tool and absolutely money well spent. Buy it right, or buy it twice.. right? But will it sew leather..... seriously? Yah... like butter ;) Keep up the good work Bro! Thumbs up all the way!
Ever tried a Necchi BU Mira? Punches harder than an old Singer and has a beautiful zigzag as well. Super quiet and sooo smooth. My favourite all-metal vintage domestic.
Hi Eric, I've chased a few Necchis, both Mira and Nova, and just haven't caught one yet. They are some of the very few remaining vintage domestic machines that I am actively seeking. Just have to find one at the right time and price! If I find one, you'll be hearing about it :) Thanks for watching!
I'm a little surprised that you mention the Singer featherweight but not the 201. I have a 201. It is full sized--more capable, and a fraction of the price. The 221 and 222 are just lightweight descendants. I know a number of people who own several domestics and prefer their 201. As far as I can tell, featherweights are popular mostly due to "collectability." Popular to quilters going to quilting parties. On the plus side, is that it is so popular that makes parts abundant.
Hi Fred, I have I think 5 201s at this point, counting the 1200 that could be seen in the background of this video from time to time, and I think the 201 is one of (if not THE) finest sewing machine ever made. The reason the Featherweight was used as an example machine in this video was partly to represent one extreme, it being such a small and low-powered machine. That's why it was used to demonstrate that virtually any sewing machine will sew "some" leather. I mentioned that if one finds one at a good price they should buy it primarily because of their collectability, but I don't think I made that as clear as I should have. I've mentioned this in another video, but you're correct about the 201 being a fraction of the price of a Featherweight; I sometimes see Featherweights with asking prices approaching $1,000, and I paid $150 for my 1200, possibly one of the rarest Singer sewing machines produced, and arguably the best. I have several videos featuring my 201/1200 machines, but the point of this video wasn't to specifically call out any particular machine, but to discuss the three categories of machine that I think people who like to sew the kinds of things covered on this channel should focus on as they look to buy their first machine, or plan for future machine upgrades. I hope that helps clarify, thanks for the question and thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades Sure does... Since you are so well versed... I picked up my first 201-3 about a month ago. (At least partly on your inspiration.) About $100. New belts, clean up, rewire. Works great, but so little power that it needs a little pull (when the needle is up) to get started. Recommendation? Need foot pedal? Motor? Both?
Prior to 1924, the Davis Sewing Machine Company made a walking foot machine for home/domestic use. They called it "Vertical Feed." I believe they had the original patent.
Interesting. Looking at it, I would say it's "kind of" a walking foot. The two "feet" don't walk alternately, only the central one walks, and it's top-feed only, no feed dogs (at least the one I saw in a video). Pretty interesting, though! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks! We've talked about starting a channel for her over the years. maybe this will push her to it :) By the way, part 2 is edited, but I'm having some technical difficulties with my MacBook, which made me resort to going back to my old one for editing and posting it, and it is SLOW. But, that's where I found this video, lol! Part 2 should be posted by this weekend (I hope!). Thanks for watching!
Great video! I have three zig zag industrials that I thought I needed, but end up using domestic walking foot machines for most stuff. I also have a Sailrite LSZ-1 for heavy duty stuff. I have not yet found its limits.
Hi Ken, 16 oz. canvas is pretty beefy, but an apron shouldn't have too many layers - a double-fold hem is three layers, so you could end up with 6 layers if you have 2 finished edges on top of each other. In general, I think you'd be fine with any domestic sewing machine. In this video, I focus mostly on my preferred "vintage domestic sewing machines" made prior to 1970; however, I'm currently doing a long-term review on a Singer "Heavy Duty" model (mine is a 6360 but the model numbers mostly identify what accessories come with it, the machines are mostly the same). I've been pleasantly surprised by how capable the machine is, although I can't speak to its long-term reliability at this point. It is worth considering if you can't find a used, vintage machine that works for you. You might want to look up "hump jumpers" as a way to help a non-walking-foot sewing machine overcome thick seam transitions, as that is where most domestic sewing machines will struggle the most on thick materials. You can make your own out of old credit cards. I have not used them, because I use walking-foot sewing machines for my thick material needs. If you don't already know, bonded nylon V69 thread is the thread I use the most, and is considered the heaviest thread most domestic sewing machines should use. It should be perfect for your canvas apron. I hope that helps, good luck, and I'd love to see the finished product when you get it done!
I am so happy i found a Singer 301 and I LOVE it for Valentine's day So Cool!!! Can I change the foot pedal, this small switch area is a trip. Can I change this pedal?
Sewing Parts Online shows a replacement foot pedal for the 301. I would confirm with them that it is a direct fit before ordering. Thanks for watching!
Hey man I understand your opinion on old vs new and cheap big box items. Unfortunately I am broke as a joke, and will be learning to sew on this, my first machine. For those reasons I can't really follow the recommendations in this video, they are too expensive for me to justify ATM. My question is two fold, what machine, if any would you recommend $200 or less that will handle sewing "mainly items" lol. Mainly I'll be sewing things like aramid fabrics to heavy canvas but also thru thick webbing material to fortify these tarps and the like I want to design. I'd also like to do similar projects that would require sewing thru the afformenttioned materials with maybe one being replaced with thicker mylar or rubberized PVC. Basically bushcraft items I have floating in my head I wanna design and make myself
Thank you! I haven't tried a Kenmoore (well, except for the 1987 one that I initially learned on, but not one of their older ones). one of these days the right deal will cross my path!
I commented on the Kenmore 158 series on your October video about the Bernina 930. I love them and can service them myself including the motors. They are solid, dependable, have lots of accessories available and/or external cams, depending upon the model. They are superb, well-made machines. I own several: one from the '50's, (120 series) several from the '60's and a couple from mid and late 70's. They are great and I love them, and am always on the lookout for certain models. You can't beat the exceptional quality of these machines, most of which were made in Japan, some in Canada and I believe one in Germany - really! There are lots of wonderful vintage machines around, Singer, Pfaff, Morse, Riccar, Necci, etc., I happen to be partial to Kenmore, I guess because my own very first machine was a Kenmore. I sew mainly for pleasure, charity or gifting so I will never buy an industrial machine. Although I appreciate their speed and functionality, they are way more machine that I'll ever need. And at age 70, I'd probably kick the bucket before it was paid off anyway!!
Often you won't have to work on them, they tend to be quite reliable! Older machines are generally quite simple, too. Get a cheap one and try it, if you break it you won't have lost much! Thanks for watching!
I have an industrial sewing machine: Toyota ls2 ad140 ... it's a machine from 1990, I don't know why, nowadays, toyota no longer produces an industrial sewing machine
Forgot to mention, Denim fabric, stretch fabric and buttonholes are really important in buying a sewing machine. A lot of fabric shops sell cheaper stretch fabrics, Denim is worn the most, and buttonholes from shirts to denim jeans are important.
Hi, These are excellent points, but not really applicable to the kind of sewing I do the most, and the kind of sewing I get the most questions about. I primarily make bags (backpacks, messenger bags, duffles) and other utility items, and the majority of sewing machine questions I get are around sewing those items. I've never even tried to make a buttonhole. I do want to make some clothing items at some point (I've had fabric I want to make a t-shirt from in my stash for about 3 years), but it isn't a significant part of my sewing. Your points are well-taken, though, and I appreciate you adding to the conversation!
@@thejasonofalltrades thanks for the reply, much appreciated. I make bags too, the buttonholes are useful for inside bag pockets, and what I would use as an attachment. The only thing is can that buttonhole be as good as what's in a shop.
How much money can one make with a 1960's Singer sewing machine? What types of products are worth making decent money? I'm leaning towards custom tactical bags, ham radio go bags
Hi! How much money one can make is a difficult question to answer. I think a more pertinent question might be, "is a 1960s sewing machine a good choice for a money-making enterprise?" My answer to that would be maybe, particularly for starting out. You mention tactical bags, I am assuming using something like Cordura and MIL-SPEC webbing; in that case, you CAN make stuff using a vintage domestic sewing machine, but a walking-foot machine (portable or industrial) is a far better choice. I've seen some pretty amazing bags made on vintage domestic machines, but I think there was some exceptional talent and skill involved. I generally promote a 2-machine minimum for making things like bags from heavier fabrics; a vintage domestic machine for lighter fabrics and lower layer counts (making pockets in liners, etc.) and a walking-foot machine for everything else. Starting with a vintage domestic machine can get you going down the path, but a walking-foot machine will make the going much easier, and for some, at least, might make the difference between continuing down the path or giving up. I hope that helps, thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi there, just wanted to emphasise the importance of the zig zag application on a sewing machine The zig zag can be used to sew stretch fabrics, stretch fabrics are really difficult in sewing without useing a serger. Also important for useing as a serger for fabrics that fray.. Buttonholes, they are the least discussed on importance. Buttonholes or buttonholes applications are not that great in quality in most domestic sewing machines. The zig zag on the vintage machine can be a better quality than a new fancy computerised machine. The zig zag can be applied to make a better quality buttonhole, takes a bit of practice, and is a quality the same as a shop product. I cannot stress the importance of a zig zag application.
@@thejasonofalltrades forgot to mention , I do find as to buttonholes, I have only really seen it on domestic machines or on industrial buttonholes machines. If you ever try clothing like denim jeans, that single buttonholes on the waistband is the worst. Difficult to look good. Would you buy any chance, try the sailrite if it has zig zag to make a buttonhole. Would like to see the quality. 👍
Thank you for sharing your knowledge to the world. I very well appreciate this..I sew as well and I can sense your experience. Great Video. Blessings. Viewing from the French island St Martin in the Caribbean.
I need to buy a leather machine but right now I have a cheap machine from Target. Will it sew nylon straps together? I think it will sew one layer but I want to sew 3-4 layers together. Is it even possible? if sew, what size of need and thread should I get?
Nylon straps aren't much of a problem, depending on how tight the weave is. Where home machines struggle is often the transition between a lower layer count to a higher one; if 3-4 layers of the webbing you are using will fit under the foot, it will probably sew ok. I use bonded nylon V69 thread for nearly everything. V69 is generally considered the thickest thread you should use in most domestic sewing machines. Anything from a size 70-110 should be fine, you may have to experiment to see what combination works best with your materials and machine. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Hi Jason, it is not easy to support you. The link to your teespring shop is not working. Have a look at it. Well, I finally succeeded to order some of your t-shirts. Have a nice day. Cheers from Switzerland. Anton
Hi Anton, Thanks for letting me know, and I appreciate your support! I've had others comment that the link didn't work for them, but it works for me on my end. It may be something to do with the vendor. At any rate, I appreciate it!
What do you do about the pedal? My vintage 1970s singer only does 0 or 100mph. My "new big box machine " has legit variable speed but can't sew doubled up waxed canvas. Is there a way to swap out the foot switch without contacting that electrical engineer that I loathe?
Hi, I haven't experienced the issue you are having with any of my vintage machines. Sites like sewingmachineparts.com (no affiliation) have replacement pedals, I would start there, since the speed control is in the pedal itself on these machines. It could be the rheostat (or whatever it is) in the pedal is work or corroded or something. Swapping a pedal, provided it has the correct connector for your machine, should be more-or-less plug and play. Good luck, let me know how it turns out!
Thanks for posting this Jason, really interesting. Glad you cleared the beard point - I was just thinking 'wow what a guy . . .' 😉 looking forward to the other half of the 'wife swap' challenge. 😊
I am cat, I must be in the way. He is a pretty boy. Also, thank you for this. I am looking for something to get me started in a small space until I have some room for my Grandmothers old machine that is in its own table.
Would a portable walking foot machine be suitable for making tactical gear? Like magazine pouches or vests using 1000d cordura nylon fabric and #69 mil spec thread?
Absolutely, yes. The only limiting factor I've found when comparing a portable walking-foot machine to a full-size industrial is slightly reduced throat space on the portable, and I personally haven't encountered a situation where that prevented me from accomplishing something. My industrial Consew 206RB-1 is a bit faster to use with a knee-lift and a servo motor with needle-positioner, but honestly I often find myself using my Sailrite with the WorkerB motor because of the incredible speed control. The portables can also be had with zig-zag for making bar tacks, which is a huge benefit. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Hey man I understand your opinion on old vs new and cheap big box items. Unfortunately I am broke as a joke, and will be learning to sew on this, my first machine. My question is two fold, what machine, if any would you recommend $200 or less that will handle sewing "mainly items" lol. Mainly I'll be sewing things like aramid fabrics to heavy canvas but also thru thick webbing material to fortify these tarps and the like I want to design. I'd also like to do similar projects that would require sewing thru the afformenttioned materials with maybe one being replaced with thicker mylar or rubberized PVC. Basically bushcraft items I have floating in my head I wanna design and make myself. The second more straight forward question is would this one work > 4432 Sewing Machine. I also see this used singer for $100 including shipping, is it a good machine for my use cases Working Vintage 1970s Singer Futura II Model 920 Sewing Machine Two Way Surface
Hi! I am aware of a lot of people who have been happy with the Singer "Heavy Duty" machines. I have VERY limited time spent trying one out, long before I had any idea what I was doing. My general sense is they are at least as capable as any other modern, non-walking-foot domestic sewing machine. I'm a broken record, but for the kinds of materials you're talking about, I think a walking-foot machine is the way to go. For under $200, that's tricky, but you might be able to find a deal for an older used industrial machine. You definitely CAN get away with something like a 4432, but I would consider it a "first step" to get you started. It will probably struggle over seam transitions and may give inconsistent stitch length in those areas, and may need some "help" from you. This can often lead to broken or bent needles. No big deal, it happens, and you can get the job done, but it can be more troublesome than a walking-foot machine on the same materials. I don't have any actual experience with the Futura II, but it certainly has some plastic gears in it. That might not be a problem (unless and until those gears break), but that machine is an example of why I lean towards machines made a little earlier than that, as they tend to be a bit more robust. It might be a fine machine, but I personally wouldn't spend $100 for it, particularly for what you want to sew with it. My position is you should be able to find a vintage sewing machine for well under $100 that can get you started. As long as it works well, the cheaper the better; hopefully it will last a long time, but if it breaks, at least you have some time to do some learning and decide what you really need from a machine. I hope that helps, good luck with your search and your sewing projects!
Given the caveat that I have no experience with dog collars in particular, but lots of experience with webbing in general, my number one pick is the Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1, preferably with the WorkerB motor. If that's not an option because of price, any used walking-foot industrial or portable walking-foot machine should do nicely. An LSZ-1 is nice because it provides zig-zag capability for bartacks, and the WorkerB provides such incredible slow-speed control and torque. But I would definitely recommend a walking-foot machine, whatever way you go. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Never tried a Singer 237, but I love my Singer 403A. For me, the 403A and the 301 are the two best and versatile vintage machines. I really don't see any benefits of the Featherweigth over the 301/301A. If you can find a 201-2 or a 15-91 with the wiring upgradeed, it's a treasure! The 401, 500, and 503 Singers are all also very good, and lastly the 66 and 99 are awesome.
I haven't found a 301 yet, they've been on my radar for a while. I now have 4 201s and one 15-91 (haven't finished putting it back together so it hasn't been used yet). Thanks for sharing your thoughts, and thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades The only negative for me with the 301 is that it is hard for me ot change the bobbin with my fatter fingers. I much prefer the top-loading 201/403 style for most applications. I wish I could get a SailRite walking-foot machine.
Boy, do I agree with you! I have a 201-2k (OMG, the most perfect straight stitches), a 403A, a 500A and a 328k that was just given to me. I do all the restoration and maintenance work on these machines. I much prefer these to my modern Bernina and Babylock. The one exception is my modern Babylock serger-I don’t think I would prefer an old serger.
@@athertonca I have two (oops, three) older Babylock sergers and they are awesome. I have two modern Pfaff sergers that are "moving on" soon. I just restored a 15-91 and am now officially hooked on vintage machines. I know my modern 20+ yr-old Pfaff will someday go "poof" and because of so much electronics will not come back even with CPR.
Helloo i work for spec up in the pass a did have a walking food.machine total i have 12 sewi g machine for heavy duty i have😊 experience in making backup ..
I haven't used a 201K, which is a little different to the 201-1 I was referring to (I don't think I clarified that, I have a terrible habit of just saying "201" and assuming everyone knows what I mean, sorry!). "The best sewing machine ever made" is definitely a bit hyperbolic. Fans of the 201-1 are rabid about it, as are Featherweight fans, Bernina fans, Metallica fans, etc. The 201-1 is infamous for reputedly being used by Rolls Royce for car interiors at some point, but I don't know if that is actually established fact. It is a very robust machine, and being straight-stitch only, it makes a very nice straight stitch. Could anyone really tell the difference between a stitch made on a 201-1 and any other quality machine? I doubt it. I frequently refer to the 201-1 as "one of if not the finest sewing machine ever made" as a way of saying that as sewing machines go, they don't come much better, and it is a good machine to benchmark against, at least in terms of build quality. The 201K is an aluminum-bodied machine, and I think all were belt-driven instead of direct-drive. From what I've read they are equally highly regarded. I've only ever seen one for sale anywhere near me, and it wasn't at a price I couldn't refuse, unfortunately. I hope that makes sense, thanks for watching!
I've heard so many varying opinions on those machines. I'd like to get one to use and be able to form an opinion of my own, but it'll have to be cheap. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Are you able to get proper tension with the Singer 237 using heavy bonded nylon thread? Like a Tex70/Size 69? I have a couple older machines and seems like the thread is just too heavy to get the right tension. Unfortunately that's the thread I need to use for tactical gear and can't really afford a $700-800 sailrite right now.
I have pretty much exclusively used V69 thread in all of my machines. Singer 237, 348, 201 and even the mighty Featherweight have all run it. You could try using a lighter weight bobbin thread, although I always run the same top and bottom. It's also possible your machine(s) could have worn tensioner springs. They're easy to replace and available for many vintage machines. I saw a big difference in one of my 201s by changing the tensioner beehive and take-up springs. I hope that helps, good luck!
@@thejasonofalltrades Thanks so much for the reply! I actually bought a 237 the other day after watching this video. Got lucky and found one in beautiful shape for sale in my area. It's at a local mechanic now getting serviced and he's supposed to be quite amazing. I left him with the thread and a sample of the Cordura I want to use. It should be ready today but I don't know if he was able to get the tension right. But gives me hope if you were able to do it! I've seen the full tension units for less than $20. So I'll talk to him about that if he wasn't able to do it. Thanks again.
Awesome video, nice one mate!! I've got a singer 320k2 and am looking at finding a more capable one for webbing and coarse canvas etc. Here in aus decent quality walking foot, or even just an industrial are horribly expensive. Wish me luck!! Note, I want to use bonded polyester 207 thread and can't seem to get it running in the 320k2, if you have any ideas or know of somewhere else that might be helpful, im very open to suggestions! Cheers! Subscribed
Hi! Regarding thread, the general wisdom is that V69 is the thickest thread one should use in a domestic machine (and if the 320K2 is what I think it is, it's a domestic machine, please correct me if not). I've used V92 in some without issue. I suspect 207 is out of the question, though. What are you trying to sew with that thread? I've done marine canvas and leather bags professionally, and never used anything bigger than 138.
Hi Jesus, I've actually had this for many years. It was passed down to me by my mother, and had belonged to my grandmother since it was brand new (it's a 1936). It sewed all of my mother's clothing through high school! I don't use it often, but I do use it, and I adore it!
just bought a new industrial walking foot machine and now am trying to understand the thread situation! Ugh! Tex/Ticket etc each seller seems to use a different numbering system. What brand and weight would you recommend for very light soft leather and or marine vinyl and or canvas duck?
Hi, Yeah, I wish there were one needle standard and one thread standard! I use V69 (also known as T70) for darn near everything I do. V92 is the next size up and is maybe somewhat better for leather and vinyl, but 69 will work. The Thread Exchange is my go-to site for thread, and they have a TON of info on their site, I recommend them highly. I hope that helps!
thejasonofalltrades that helps a great deal because I already had some T70 bonded nylon and it seems to do really well on vinyl and even light canvas. I don't think I'll ever need to go heavier just for the bags and home decor things I make...I've just been using Gutermann in my 201K with pretty good luck for years. I've just found some bargain priced Tex60 cotton wrapped poly and some Tkt 50 poly cotton corespun for $5 so if it doesn't suit the industrial maybe I can use it in my 201K. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!
Hi Jason. I am looking for a pattern/design to use for basic rugged backpacks. I found out that it is one of the top 3 things asked for at my local homeless shelter. I would like to start making some and donating them. Thoughts ?
Hi Chris! My first suggestion is to check out my multi-part backpack tutorial if you haven't. In Episode 2 (I think) I provide the dimensions for all of the pieces of that pack. There isn't a "pattern" per se, but it's a simple construction that can be easily adapted to different sizes/capacities. Second, send me an email at the jason of all trades @ gmail . com (remove the spaces). I'd love to help you out with this somehow if I can!
I think the 930 is one of the best machines I've ever sewn with. I haven't used a Bernina walking foot attachment, but I have tried a cheap Singer one on my 201. I'm working on a video on this topic, but my impression so far is the walking foot attachment helps a bit more than I might have suspected, but still isn't going to be as capable as a true walking-foot machine. It might be enough to be worthwhile, depending on what the majority of your sewing is. My general story arc is if one is seriously into making bags, etc. out of heavier materials, a walking-foot machine is where you are ultimately headed. That is just my opinion based on my experiences, though. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
It kind of depends on what you're making, and how much of it. If you want to occasionally sew some pieces of thinner wetsuit neoprene into a pouch or something, I imagine any sewing machine will do. Wetsuit neoprene can get quite thick, so a walking-foot machine will feed it better than a non-walking-foot machine. If you want to make a wetsuit, that might be a different question. I actually have an old wetsuit in my stash to mess around with, but I've yet to figure out the right project for it, so I haven't tried it. But it's basically just neoprene foam. My suggestion would be to try whatever sewing machine you have (or can borrow) and see how it works. I hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
If I were you, I would visit a commercial place that repairs wetsuits and see what type of machines they use. Hey, there might even be some videos on UA-cam.
Hi! I use bonded nylon thread (typically size V69) in every one of my sewing machines (I have 22, although probably 10 of them see actual use). Any home machine should be fine using nylon thread with no issues.
You know, I don't think I've talked about that other than a brief mention in some random video! My very, very first sewing project, believe it or not, was making foot straps and a recovery parachute attachment for my skysurf board (I was a long-time skydiver and briefly a sky surfer in the 90s). Many, many years later, I made a Ray Jardine quilt kit (backpacking quilt, basically a sleeping bag with no zipper). A few years after that, I was unemployed and bored, and my best friend gave me a big piece of 1.1 oz ripstop nylon and told me about a hammock forum, where I found a nice tutorial on making a camping hammock. That pushed me over the edge, and I got into sewing for real. I went on UA-cam and typed "sewing for guys" into the search bar, thinking I would find sewing projects for utility items I would be interested in making. What I found was a small hole in UA-cam, so I decided to try to fill it :) ( I suppose I should make this into a video lol!) Thanks for asking, and thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades thank you for sharing. For me it was making custom tool rolls for storing tools in my small truck. Greatness is often born from necessity. keep the great content coming.
Hi! Bobbin doesn't come to work with me, but shows up from time to time when I shoot videos at home (increasingly rarely, these days, unfortunately!). Thanks for watching!
plastic or nylon parts is never good. See the old pfaff and bernina machines with them. Expensive parts and expensive service cost. the pfaff 1222 is an example. Camstack is plastic and repair could cost $300 to $500. Buy sewing machine with less plastic.
I agree, with the caveat that if the machine can be had for a low enough price, then it doesn't matter so much (in terms of someone who wants to get started in sewing). If you get a machine for free, or under $20, and it works for a few months before breaking, at least it will have provided a taste to let you know if you want to invest more in a better machine. But yes, I generally avoid plastic internals as much as possible. Thanks for watching and commenting!
LOL you're right, it wasn't! That mess came on the machine when I bought it, and has since been removed. I haven't yet gotten around to making a new pad, though (now I know what to do with the rest of my day lol!). Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi! There are likely two issues; one, the poor girl is neglected due to rarely being used. Two, I think my camera's microphone picks up mechanical noise rather sensitively. I commonly get comments about this-or-that machine sounding excessively noisy, but in person it doesn't seem to be to me. All that said, I'll give the Featherweight a good oiling next time I use it! Thanks for watching and commenting!
By "over engineered" what you really mean is that they were built up to a quality standard and not, like modern machines, built down to a price.
My 'see honey, the man on the Internet says that I need multiple sewing machines!' isn't met with much enthousiasm...
I have 16 at last count. 😁 I hope that helps!
Maybe an under 90yr & a +100 yr...he heee
Six or eight years ago, I decided to make a new hunting pack. I had been sewing for some time and had made a number of outdoor projects. I had several older sewing machines, mostly Kenmore, but nothing with a walking foot. For my new pack, I used mostly 500d and 1000d Cordura and webbing. I was able to make my prototype and then a couple more like it. I've used it every year and have not had any failures, but many of the stitches were pretty ugly, mostly on the bobbin side. I've often thought about buying a walking foot machine, but I don't do enough of this type of sewing to really justify the purchase. That being said, I'm looking at the machines and particularly the Sailrite LSZ-1. The price of a new machine isn't that much higher than the used machines and there may be a best of both worlds deal with the Sew and Go Bundle. With that you get a portable machine, a table and a servomotor drive. Even with the table, it shouldn't be too difficult to move the whole package around. It strikes me that I would be unlikely to remove the machine from the table and use the portable setup, but it's there. Straight stitching and bar tacks will do most of the things that I want to do. I haven't made up my mind, but watching your videos has rekindled my interest.
If one uses materials that can fray, the zig zag is handy. Sometimes I will straight stitch then resew in the seam allowance using a zig zag to stop fraying. The zig zag can be set for a long stitch as it does not actually hold the seam together.
I love my triple feed 1541S Titan. It made a huge difference in sewing gear and pouches. The needle feed in addition to walking food keeps multiple layers together while I see.
Jason, when I got back into sewing a few years back, you were the guy who got me pointed in the right direction again. Thanks for all the cool videos
That's awesome to hear, thanks!
This video inspired me to go vintage for my first machine. Today I picked up a sweet little Singer 401a for free that looks like it just needs a bit of a cleanup. Thanks, man!
A free 401 is a great find, congrats!
I find the phaff and Bernina sewing machines to be the top best to sew and create with and they are made of high quality and last you forever.
I sew since 2+ decades for my hobbies: Kites (modern single line kites as well as replicas of historical models) and Bushcraft items like Tarp, Tent, Hammock, Backpack, Outdoor-hoodie (made of 100% wool blanket), countless bags and pouches, foldable Stools, and many more. I frequently sew different fabrics, from finest silk to mosquito-mesh to cotton, also countless synthetic fabrics, denim (of course) up to heaviest canvas with reinforcements of leather or reinforced attachment-points/loops of multiple layers of seat belt from the local car recycling station.
I prefer the vintage Bernina sewing machines, not only because thy are well manufactured and reliable (many other Manufacturers in that eras had pretty good machines too) but because some of them (many of the "Record" models) have the knee lever function for lifting the sewing foot. I'm used to this function since I've started sewing and I absolutely adore having both hands on my workpiece.
Mobility of the sewing machine is not an important factor for me. That makes my personal Nr.1 sewing machine the Bernina class 117. She's got everything I need and nothing that distracts me from my sew-work. I can use mine as a treadle machine or with an electric (125 watts) motor. She can sew up to 12-14 layers of Denim. Full metal mechanics, built to last.
If I have a sewing task that requires even more power, I use my other Bernina, a 217-industrial. That's a beast of a sewing machine! Except multiple layers of shoe-leather, she can sew almost everything. Normal fabrics she sews up to 2700 stitches per minute.
But in 95% of my sewing tasks, I prefer the 70+ Year old KL-117. She runs so smooth! More and more I use her in treadling mode. Having it sewed by muscle power gives another level of satisfaction when the task is accomplished.
Great job, thx I appreciate the content and education you provide.❤ love the guitars too. I picked up two industrial sewing machines . One is Singer oil cooled and a Juki Dl 555, I’m still learning about the sewing machines and will learn to sew with them. I hand sew leather. Love the videos Jason .
I have a Singer 237, and it does have a nylon gear inside of the tensioning guide. On mine the gear is split in two pieces, but it still works in that condition.
Hey…. It’s newer than your baseline, but my beloved all metal 1990s Bernina 1010 is pretty awesome too!
My mum got me a dressmaker like yours recently at her op shop, branded as a Toyota Super Deluxe… that’s pretty sweet too!
I also have an Elna Grasshopper, Singer 15-91, Husqvarna 21e that i ♥️…
But I also adore my very first machine which is a plastic cheap Brother NS10… it’s plain, no frills but because it was my first, I can make it sing… I can drive that baby like a $5000+ embroidery machine freemotion even tho it’s not one…. and it loves cheap thread and I own all the accessories and she does a nicer triple stitch than almost any machine I’ve seen…. but yeah, she hates layers!
And then, ofc, there’s my mid-heavy compound wf industrial I use to make bags. 🤗🤗
Seven… I have 7 machines!
Great overview of capabilities and good thought process of being sensible with the options. I have a variety of machines including similar models to what you have. I had intended to buy the new Consew RB206, but ended up going with the Juki 1541S because the price was the same during the pandemic. It is a HUGE, HEAVY machine and took 2 guys to lift it into the table. I got casters on the table so I can easily move it around. I didn't want to go used on the industrial because I can't take it in for repair. I have purchased numerous plastic box store machines, but moving forward if I can find a vintage metal machine for the purpose I need, that's the way I will go. The new plastic machines seem to be disposable. My serger, coverstitch and embroidery machines are all plastic and I use them carefully. TFS
Out of focus is driving me a bit crazy and the sound was recorded just a tad to hot. But a good video post with valuable information. Thanks.
I have 2, an 1892 Singer Treadle 27-VS3 and a 1926 Singer Treadle 66-4 born 01/26/1926. With a HD needle I can punch through 7+ layers of denim.
If just wanting to learn to sew, a new singer for under 200 is a great way to go as well. Plenty of support, easy to use. Inexpensive.
For years, I held a low opinion of modern, inexpensive sewing machines. I recently (begrudgingly) bought a Singer Heavy Duty machine with the express intent of testing it and showing how inferior it is to vintage machines. It has now become one of my favorite machines.
I still think vintage machines are the least expensive way to try sewing if one wants to dabble in it but isn't committed enough to spend $100+, and there are other arguments to be made for whether vintage or modern is a better overall choice, but your point is a good one to add. Maybe I should update this video :)
Thanks for adding to the conversation!
@thejasonofalltrades for sure! Last fall I started on my moms old singer athena 2000 she had given to my wife years ago. This spring my daughter let me try her new 4430 (i think the number) and I love it. Surprisingly it sews through 2-3 oz leather and wool, I was very impressed!
All short shank attachments catch my 100 yr old machines to 1960's & later.
Love these heavy info vids.
I have a sailrite LS1 too and love it for many reasons (able to hand crank and sew without power). I bought that machine to use for my business of making waxed canvas and leather goods. Prior to that I was only making and selling leather goods and stitching by hand.
The LS1 in my opinion isn’t a leather machine. I have the heavier fly wheel on in too. Tandy/Sailrite has their upgraded leather machine with a stronger motor. Maybe it’s more capable ?
I decided to upgrade to a Juki 1508N after a year for my leather and heavier canvas/waxed goods. It’s much more capable than the LS1. But it still lacks power and could benefit from a speed reducer when sewing veg tan leather.
No regrets buying either machines. But if someone was really interested in making utility goods, and had some experience on sewing machines, I’d recommend getting an industrial machine from the start.
It was super frustrating having designs in my head that I couldn’t make on the LS1. And I always found myself adjusting the tension knob when transitioning from different layer counts. Coming from sewing by hand I guess I’m super attentive to thread tension. And I have nightmares about it. Haha
I love my Husqvarna Viking 6030 which I bought after I got my first real job, around 1975.
My GF got me a Husky Viking Emerald 116 for my BD right before I went into design school. I've not used it too much tbh. I'm wondering if it's good for this sort of thing? I've always thought the Husky's were good all-purpose machines, but I'm not sure.
I have 4 machines with a 5th on the way. Each has a different purpose. Sewing, computerized embroidery, coverstitch, overlock/serger and now Industrial triple feed. I think for garments especially, having a zig zag is an essential for a domestic machine for button holes, stretch stiches or to prevent frayed edges, especially if you don't own an overlock machine. My domestic can't handle leather, heavy canvas or upholstery It also struggles with some of my thicker quilts seams on quilts. This is why I am adding an Industrial. I considered the Sailrite Consew and Juki. I tried to pick up a used Consew 206 locally, but that didn't work out. Going with the Juki 1541S. TFS
One of my fave old machines was my 41 Montgomery ward machine it
Was a singer class 15 machine. Now I’m using a Juki tl 2000 and a tl -18 Qvp both great straight stitch machines thanks for the video..
I’am going through this as we speak dropped my pfaff off today to see if it can be fixed it’s now out of timing . I see a lot and my issue is that every sewing machine that I have owned does not like to use my number 30 thread . Definitely looking for another vintage sewing machine just not sure if it’s time to jump up to a more substantial industrial for my thick threads and heavy material. I owned a newer domestic machine and they are definitely junk even the hooks on the drop in bobbin was plastic and not metal.
Thread sizing is confusing as there are so many different standards. I think 30wt is pretty close to V69 also called T70.
I bought all janomes, I'm a hobbyist, quilt, clothes, garden bags, purses, I love them, I would have loved a Juki but didn't have the space for it, and I didn't want to deal with the oil pans, and I have had janome for years, familiar with all the parts, didn't want to buy new accessories. Would love to have one of those decorative older models to put out on a shelf, (I have small jewelry box styles for decoration), but I don't know if I should really spend tons of money on it, I would rather buy fabric, fabricholic here.
Thank you for this video, exactly what i was looking for, want to start into Cordura 1000d
Love my Singer 237 (that you helped me find on Craig's List)!!! An awesomely capable machine over my Singer Simple.
Dig it man!
If I may throw in my $0.02
I'm not a full time seamster by any means... but I do fabrication work as a part of my job in the military, making/modifying survival gear and performing parachute repairs. We have many, many different machines.. and like Jason says, the 206RB is the boss, we also have a Sailrite machine that's also the big dog's balls.. At home I do quite a lot of fabricating of sailing gear, sail repair, boat upholstery, bushcrafting gear etc... For my needs personally, I couldn't do better than the Sailrite LSZ-1, which is the same model as Jason's red Sailrite but with the zig-zag ability as well as straight stitch. I pretty much NEED the zig-zag option for the sail repairs, but I've also made a number of hammocks with it, which also needs a zig-zag for best performance (although I had to change needle/thread size). So for me its a super versatile tool and absolutely money well spent. Buy it right, or buy it twice.. right?
But will it sew leather..... seriously? Yah... like butter ;)
Keep up the good work Bro! Thumbs up all the way!
Thanks for your $0.02!
I have the LS1 and it can definitely sew some leathers. But it can’t really handle veg tan leather.
Ever tried a Necchi BU Mira? Punches harder than an old Singer and has a beautiful zigzag as well. Super quiet and sooo smooth. My favourite all-metal vintage domestic.
Hi Eric,
I've chased a few Necchis, both Mira and Nova, and just haven't caught one yet. They are some of the very few remaining vintage domestic machines that I am actively seeking. Just have to find one at the right time and price!
If I find one, you'll be hearing about it :)
Thanks for watching!
I'm a little surprised that you mention the Singer featherweight but not the 201. I have a 201. It is full sized--more capable, and a fraction of the price. The 221 and 222 are just lightweight descendants. I know a number of people who own several domestics and prefer their 201.
As far as I can tell, featherweights are popular mostly due to "collectability." Popular to quilters going to quilting parties. On the plus side, is that it is so popular that makes parts abundant.
Hi Fred,
I have I think 5 201s at this point, counting the 1200 that could be seen in the background of this video from time to time, and I think the 201 is one of (if not THE) finest sewing machine ever made.
The reason the Featherweight was used as an example machine in this video was partly to represent one extreme, it being such a small and low-powered machine. That's why it was used to demonstrate that virtually any sewing machine will sew "some" leather. I mentioned that if one finds one at a good price they should buy it primarily because of their collectability, but I don't think I made that as clear as I should have. I've mentioned this in another video, but you're correct about the 201 being a fraction of the price of a Featherweight; I sometimes see Featherweights with asking prices approaching $1,000, and I paid $150 for my 1200, possibly one of the rarest Singer sewing machines produced, and arguably the best.
I have several videos featuring my 201/1200 machines, but the point of this video wasn't to specifically call out any particular machine, but to discuss the three categories of machine that I think people who like to sew the kinds of things covered on this channel should focus on as they look to buy their first machine, or plan for future machine upgrades.
I hope that helps clarify, thanks for the question and thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades Sure does...
Since you are so well versed... I picked up my first 201-3 about a month ago. (At least partly on your inspiration.) About $100. New belts, clean up, rewire. Works great, but so little power that it needs a little pull (when the needle is up) to get started.
Recommendation? Need foot pedal? Motor? Both?
Prior to 1924, the Davis Sewing Machine Company made a walking foot machine for home/domestic use. They called it "Vertical Feed." I believe they had the original patent.
Interesting. Looking at it, I would say it's "kind of" a walking foot. The two "feet" don't walk alternately, only the central one walks, and it's top-feed only, no feed dogs (at least the one I saw in a video). Pretty interesting, though!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Eagerly waiting for part 2 of Wife Swap, when Jenny announces her own channel!
Thanks! We've talked about starting a channel for her over the years. maybe this will push her to it :)
By the way, part 2 is edited, but I'm having some technical difficulties with my MacBook, which made me resort to going back to my old one for editing and posting it, and it is SLOW. But, that's where I found this video, lol! Part 2 should be posted by this weekend (I hope!).
Thanks for watching!
thejasonofalltrades still can’t shake the tech issues? Bummer!
Great video! I have three zig zag industrials that I thought I needed, but end up using domestic walking foot machines for most stuff. I also have a Sailrite LSZ-1 for heavy duty stuff. I have not yet found its limits.
I can't find an Shop Apron (16oz waxed canvas) that works for me. What type of sewing machine (used) should I look for? thanks for your time.
Hi Ken,
16 oz. canvas is pretty beefy, but an apron shouldn't have too many layers - a double-fold hem is three layers, so you could end up with 6 layers if you have 2 finished edges on top of each other. In general, I think you'd be fine with any domestic sewing machine. In this video, I focus mostly on my preferred "vintage domestic sewing machines" made prior to 1970; however, I'm currently doing a long-term review on a Singer "Heavy Duty" model (mine is a 6360 but the model numbers mostly identify what accessories come with it, the machines are mostly the same). I've been pleasantly surprised by how capable the machine is, although I can't speak to its long-term reliability at this point. It is worth considering if you can't find a used, vintage machine that works for you.
You might want to look up "hump jumpers" as a way to help a non-walking-foot sewing machine overcome thick seam transitions, as that is where most domestic sewing machines will struggle the most on thick materials. You can make your own out of old credit cards. I have not used them, because I use walking-foot sewing machines for my thick material needs.
If you don't already know, bonded nylon V69 thread is the thread I use the most, and is considered the heaviest thread most domestic sewing machines should use. It should be perfect for your canvas apron.
I hope that helps, good luck, and I'd love to see the finished product when you get it done!
The correct number of appropriate machines? N+1. Great video, lots of good information. YVR
I am so happy i found a Singer 301 and I LOVE it for Valentine's day So Cool!!! Can I change the foot pedal, this small switch area is a trip. Can I change this pedal?
Sewing Parts Online shows a replacement foot pedal for the 301. I would confirm with them that it is a direct fit before ordering. Thanks for watching!
Hey man I understand your opinion on old vs new and cheap big box items. Unfortunately I am broke as a joke, and will be learning to sew on this, my first machine. For those reasons I can't really follow the recommendations in this video, they are too expensive for me to justify ATM. My question is two fold, what machine, if any would you recommend $200 or less that will handle sewing "mainly items" lol. Mainly I'll be sewing things like aramid fabrics to heavy canvas but also thru thick webbing material to fortify these tarps and the like I want to design. I'd also like to do similar projects that would require sewing thru the afformenttioned materials with maybe one being replaced with thicker mylar or rubberized PVC. Basically bushcraft items I have floating in my head I wanna design and make myself
I bought a slant needle singer 301 for 50 bucks. Sews right through everything normal
excellent video its all true, may i recommend Sears Kenmore 158.---- models Made in Japan...
i got 2 237's that ill never sell ,lol
Thank you!
I haven't tried a Kenmoore (well, except for the 1987 one that I initially learned on, but not one of their older ones). one of these days the right deal will cross my path!
I commented on the Kenmore 158 series on your October video about the Bernina 930. I love them and can service them myself including the motors. They are solid, dependable, have lots of accessories available and/or external cams, depending upon the model. They are superb, well-made machines. I own several: one from the '50's, (120 series) several from the '60's and a couple from mid and late 70's. They are great and I love them, and am always on the lookout for certain models. You can't beat the exceptional quality of these machines, most of which were made in Japan, some in Canada and I believe one in Germany - really! There are lots of wonderful vintage machines around, Singer, Pfaff, Morse, Riccar, Necci, etc., I happen to be partial to Kenmore, I guess because my own very first machine was a Kenmore.
I sew mainly for pleasure, charity or gifting so I will never buy an industrial machine. Although I appreciate their speed and functionality, they are way more machine that I'll ever need. And at age 70, I'd probably kick the bucket before it was paid off anyway!!
I don't think I would mind using an old machine if I understood how to work on them. 🤔
Often you won't have to work on them, they tend to be quite reliable! Older machines are generally quite simple, too. Get a cheap one and try it, if you break it you won't have lost much!
Thanks for watching!
I have an industrial sewing machine: Toyota ls2 ad140 ... it's a machine from 1990, I don't know why, nowadays, toyota no longer produces an industrial sewing machine
Forgot to mention, Denim fabric, stretch fabric and buttonholes are really important in buying a sewing machine. A lot of fabric shops sell cheaper stretch fabrics, Denim is worn the most, and buttonholes from shirts to denim jeans are important.
Hi,
These are excellent points, but not really applicable to the kind of sewing I do the most, and the kind of sewing I get the most questions about. I primarily make bags (backpacks, messenger bags, duffles) and other utility items, and the majority of sewing machine questions I get are around sewing those items. I've never even tried to make a buttonhole. I do want to make some clothing items at some point (I've had fabric I want to make a t-shirt from in my stash for about 3 years), but it isn't a significant part of my sewing.
Your points are well-taken, though, and I appreciate you adding to the conversation!
@@thejasonofalltrades thanks for the reply, much appreciated. I make bags too, the buttonholes are useful for inside bag pockets, and what I would use as an attachment. The only thing is can that buttonhole be as good as what's in a shop.
How much money can one make with a 1960's Singer sewing machine? What types of products are worth making decent money? I'm leaning towards custom tactical bags, ham radio go bags
Hi!
How much money one can make is a difficult question to answer. I think a more pertinent question might be, "is a 1960s sewing machine a good choice for a money-making enterprise?" My answer to that would be maybe, particularly for starting out. You mention tactical bags, I am assuming using something like Cordura and MIL-SPEC webbing; in that case, you CAN make stuff using a vintage domestic sewing machine, but a walking-foot machine (portable or industrial) is a far better choice. I've seen some pretty amazing bags made on vintage domestic machines, but I think there was some exceptional talent and skill involved.
I generally promote a 2-machine minimum for making things like bags from heavier fabrics; a vintage domestic machine for lighter fabrics and lower layer counts (making pockets in liners, etc.) and a walking-foot machine for everything else. Starting with a vintage domestic machine can get you going down the path, but a walking-foot machine will make the going much easier, and for some, at least, might make the difference between continuing down the path or giving up.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi there, just wanted to emphasise the importance of the zig zag application on a sewing machine
The zig zag can be used to sew stretch fabrics, stretch fabrics are really difficult in sewing without useing a serger. Also important for useing as a serger for fabrics that fray..
Buttonholes, they are the least discussed on importance. Buttonholes or buttonholes applications are not that great in quality in most domestic sewing machines. The zig zag on the vintage machine can be a better quality than a new fancy computerised machine.
The zig zag can be applied to make a better quality buttonhole, takes a bit of practice, and is a quality the same as a shop product.
I cannot stress the importance of a zig zag application.
I replied to your second comment, and I think that reply covers my thoughts on this. Thanks for adding to the conversation!
@@thejasonofalltrades forgot to mention , I do find as to buttonholes, I have only really seen it on domestic machines or on industrial buttonholes machines. If you ever try clothing like denim jeans, that single buttonholes on the waistband is the worst. Difficult to look good. Would you buy any chance, try the sailrite if it has zig zag to make a buttonhole. Would like to see the quality. 👍
Thank you for sharing your knowledge to the world. I very well appreciate this..I sew as well and I can sense your experience. Great Video. Blessings. Viewing from the French island St Martin in the Caribbean.
Thank you!
I have dear friends who live part-time in St. Martin, I hope to visit there sometime soon!
What kind of zippers do you like to use? The ones I'm finding at the fabric stores seem pretty substandard.
I need to buy a leather machine but right now I have a cheap machine from Target. Will it sew nylon straps together? I think it will sew one layer but I want to sew 3-4 layers together. Is it even possible? if sew, what size of need and thread should I get?
Nylon straps aren't much of a problem, depending on how tight the weave is. Where home machines struggle is often the transition between a lower layer count to a higher one; if 3-4 layers of the webbing you are using will fit under the foot, it will probably sew ok.
I use bonded nylon V69 thread for nearly everything. V69 is generally considered the thickest thread you should use in most domestic sewing machines. Anything from a size 70-110 should be fine, you may have to experiment to see what combination works best with your materials and machine.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Hi Jason, it is not easy to support you. The link to your teespring shop is not working. Have a look at it. Well, I finally succeeded to order some of your t-shirts. Have a nice day. Cheers from Switzerland. Anton
Hi Anton,
Thanks for letting me know, and I appreciate your support! I've had others comment that the link didn't work for them, but it works for me on my end. It may be something to do with the vendor. At any rate, I appreciate it!
What do you do about the pedal? My vintage 1970s singer only does 0 or 100mph. My "new big box machine " has legit variable speed but can't sew doubled up waxed canvas. Is there a way to swap out the foot switch without contacting that electrical engineer that I loathe?
Hi,
I haven't experienced the issue you are having with any of my vintage machines. Sites like sewingmachineparts.com (no affiliation) have replacement pedals, I would start there, since the speed control is in the pedal itself on these machines. It could be the rheostat (or whatever it is) in the pedal is work or corroded or something. Swapping a pedal, provided it has the correct connector for your machine, should be more-or-less plug and play.
Good luck, let me know how it turns out!
Thanks for posting this Jason, really interesting. Glad you cleared the beard point - I was just thinking 'wow what a guy . . .' 😉 looking forward to the other half of the 'wife swap' challenge. 😊
I am cat, I must be in the way. He is a pretty boy. Also, thank you for this. I am looking for something to get me started in a small space until I have some room for my Grandmothers old machine that is in its own table.
Where is a good place to get bobbins, sewing feet, sewing machine oil and other needed items ? I have a Consew 220. Thank you.
Would a portable walking foot machine be suitable for making tactical gear? Like magazine pouches or vests using 1000d cordura nylon fabric and #69 mil spec thread?
Absolutely, yes.
The only limiting factor I've found when comparing a portable walking-foot machine to a full-size industrial is slightly reduced throat space on the portable, and I personally haven't encountered a situation where that prevented me from accomplishing something. My industrial Consew 206RB-1 is a bit faster to use with a knee-lift and a servo motor with needle-positioner, but honestly I often find myself using my Sailrite with the WorkerB motor because of the incredible speed control.
The portables can also be had with zig-zag for making bar tacks, which is a huge benefit.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Hey man I understand your opinion on old vs new and cheap big box items. Unfortunately I am broke as a joke, and will be learning to sew on this, my first machine. My question is two fold, what machine, if any would you recommend $200 or less that will handle sewing "mainly items" lol. Mainly I'll be sewing things like aramid fabrics to heavy canvas but also thru thick webbing material to fortify these tarps and the like I want to design. I'd also like to do similar projects that would require sewing thru the afformenttioned materials with maybe one being replaced with thicker mylar or rubberized PVC. Basically bushcraft items I have floating in my head I wanna design and make myself.
The second more straight forward question is would this one work > 4432 Sewing Machine.
I also see this used singer for $100 including shipping, is it a good machine for my use cases Working Vintage 1970s Singer Futura II Model 920 Sewing Machine Two Way Surface
Hi!
I am aware of a lot of people who have been happy with the Singer "Heavy Duty" machines. I have VERY limited time spent trying one out, long before I had any idea what I was doing. My general sense is they are at least as capable as any other modern, non-walking-foot domestic sewing machine.
I'm a broken record, but for the kinds of materials you're talking about, I think a walking-foot machine is the way to go. For under $200, that's tricky, but you might be able to find a deal for an older used industrial machine. You definitely CAN get away with something like a 4432, but I would consider it a "first step" to get you started. It will probably struggle over seam transitions and may give inconsistent stitch length in those areas, and may need some "help" from you. This can often lead to broken or bent needles. No big deal, it happens, and you can get the job done, but it can be more troublesome than a walking-foot machine on the same materials.
I don't have any actual experience with the Futura II, but it certainly has some plastic gears in it. That might not be a problem (unless and until those gears break), but that machine is an example of why I lean towards machines made a little earlier than that, as they tend to be a bit more robust. It might be a fine machine, but I personally wouldn't spend $100 for it, particularly for what you want to sew with it.
My position is you should be able to find a vintage sewing machine for well under $100 that can get you started. As long as it works well, the cheaper the better; hopefully it will last a long time, but if it breaks, at least you have some time to do some learning and decide what you really need from a machine.
I hope that helps, good luck with your search and your sewing projects!
@@thejasonofalltradesthanks for that well thought out reply. I appreciate it.
Great information. Thankyou!
What machine would you reccomended for someone wanting to make dog collars out of polypropylene
Given the caveat that I have no experience with dog collars in particular, but lots of experience with webbing in general, my number one pick is the Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1, preferably with the WorkerB motor. If that's not an option because of price, any used walking-foot industrial or portable walking-foot machine should do nicely. An LSZ-1 is nice because it provides zig-zag capability for bartacks, and the WorkerB provides such incredible slow-speed control and torque. But I would definitely recommend a walking-foot machine, whatever way you go.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Never tried a Singer 237, but I love my Singer 403A. For me, the 403A and the 301 are the two best and versatile vintage machines. I really don't see any benefits of the Featherweigth over the 301/301A. If you can find a 201-2 or a 15-91 with the wiring upgradeed, it's a treasure! The 401, 500, and 503 Singers are all also very good, and lastly the 66 and 99 are awesome.
I haven't found a 301 yet, they've been on my radar for a while. I now have 4 201s and one 15-91 (haven't finished putting it back together so it hasn't been used yet).
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, and thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades The only negative for me with the 301 is that it is hard for me ot change the bobbin with my fatter fingers. I much prefer the top-loading 201/403 style for most applications. I wish I could get a SailRite walking-foot machine.
Boy, do I agree with you! I have a 201-2k (OMG, the most perfect straight stitches), a 403A, a 500A and a 328k that was just given to me. I do all the restoration and maintenance work on these machines. I much prefer these to my modern Bernina and Babylock. The one exception is my modern Babylock serger-I don’t think I would prefer an old serger.
@@athertonca I have two (oops, three) older Babylock sergers and they are awesome. I have two modern Pfaff sergers that are "moving on" soon. I just restored a 15-91 and am now officially hooked on vintage machines. I know my modern 20+ yr-old Pfaff will someday go "poof" and because of so much electronics will not come back even with CPR.
Helloo i work for spec up in the pass a did have a walking food.machine total i have 12 sewi g machine for heavy duty i have😊 experience in making backup ..
I have been gifted a Singer 201K, is it really the best domestic sewing machine ever made?
I haven't used a 201K, which is a little different to the 201-1 I was referring to (I don't think I clarified that, I have a terrible habit of just saying "201" and assuming everyone knows what I mean, sorry!).
"The best sewing machine ever made" is definitely a bit hyperbolic. Fans of the 201-1 are rabid about it, as are Featherweight fans, Bernina fans, Metallica fans, etc. The 201-1 is infamous for reputedly being used by Rolls Royce for car interiors at some point, but I don't know if that is actually established fact. It is a very robust machine, and being straight-stitch only, it makes a very nice straight stitch. Could anyone really tell the difference between a stitch made on a 201-1 and any other quality machine? I doubt it.
I frequently refer to the 201-1 as "one of if not the finest sewing machine ever made" as a way of saying that as sewing machines go, they don't come much better, and it is a good machine to benchmark against, at least in terms of build quality.
The 201K is an aluminum-bodied machine, and I think all were belt-driven instead of direct-drive. From what I've read they are equally highly regarded. I've only ever seen one for sale anywhere near me, and it wasn't at a price I couldn't refuse, unfortunately.
I hope that makes sense, thanks for watching!
My singer heavy duty is a absolute nightmare lol
I've heard so many varying opinions on those machines. I'd like to get one to use and be able to form an opinion of my own, but it'll have to be cheap.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Are you able to get proper tension with the Singer 237 using heavy bonded nylon thread? Like a Tex70/Size 69? I have a couple older machines and seems like the thread is just too heavy to get the right tension. Unfortunately that's the thread I need to use for tactical gear and can't really afford a $700-800 sailrite right now.
I have pretty much exclusively used V69 thread in all of my machines. Singer 237, 348, 201 and even the mighty Featherweight have all run it.
You could try using a lighter weight bobbin thread, although I always run the same top and bottom. It's also possible your machine(s) could have worn tensioner springs. They're easy to replace and available for many vintage machines. I saw a big difference in one of my 201s by changing the tensioner beehive and take-up springs.
I hope that helps, good luck!
@@thejasonofalltrades Thanks so much for the reply! I actually bought a 237 the other day after watching this video. Got lucky and found one in beautiful shape for sale in my area. It's at a local mechanic now getting serviced and he's supposed to be quite amazing. I left him with the thread and a sample of the Cordura I want to use. It should be ready today but I don't know if he was able to get the tension right. But gives me hope if you were able to do it! I've seen the full tension units for less than $20. So I'll talk to him about that if he wasn't able to do it. Thanks again.
Jason, your cat is adorable
Thank you! Wait until the next video, he's ridiculous :)
@@thejasonofalltrades I just come here to see the cat...and sometimes the sewing machines, lol
Awesome video, nice one mate!!
I've got a singer 320k2 and am looking at finding a more capable one for webbing and coarse canvas etc.
Here in aus decent quality walking foot, or even just an industrial are horribly expensive.
Wish me luck!!
Note,
I want to use bonded polyester 207 thread and can't seem to get it running in the 320k2, if you have any ideas or know of somewhere else that might be helpful, im very open to suggestions!
Cheers!
Subscribed
Hi!
Regarding thread, the general wisdom is that V69 is the thickest thread one should use in a domestic machine (and if the 320K2 is what I think it is, it's a domestic machine, please correct me if not). I've used V92 in some without issue. I suspect 207 is out of the question, though. What are you trying to sew with that thread? I've done marine canvas and leather bags professionally, and never used anything bigger than 138.
Very informative!! Thank you 🙏
3:34 Cat: “where’s my shout out in this video human?!?”
This channel was going to be about chainsaw juggling, but that cat makes it impossible :)
When did you get a featherweight?!? ;)
Hi Jesus,
I've actually had this for many years. It was passed down to me by my mother, and had belonged to my grandmother since it was brand new (it's a 1936). It sewed all of my mother's clothing through high school! I don't use it often, but I do use it, and I adore it!
@@thejasonofalltrades I never saw it mentioned in any of your videos. Was wondering if you had just purchased it.
just bought a new industrial walking foot machine and now am trying to understand the thread situation! Ugh! Tex/Ticket etc each seller seems to use a different numbering system. What brand and weight would you recommend for very light soft leather and or marine vinyl and or canvas duck?
Hi,
Yeah, I wish there were one needle standard and one thread standard!
I use V69 (also known as T70) for darn near everything I do. V92 is the next size up and is maybe somewhat better for leather and vinyl, but 69 will work. The Thread Exchange is my go-to site for thread, and they have a TON of info on their site, I recommend them highly.
I hope that helps!
thejasonofalltrades that helps a great deal because I already had some T70 bonded nylon and it seems to do really well on vinyl and even light canvas. I don't think I'll ever need to go heavier just for the bags and home decor things I make...I've just been using Gutermann in my 201K with pretty good luck for years. I've just found some bargain priced Tex60 cotton wrapped poly and some Tkt 50 poly cotton corespun for $5 so if it doesn't suit the industrial maybe I can use it in my 201K. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!
Hi Jason. I am looking for a pattern/design to use for basic rugged backpacks. I found out that it is one of the top 3 things asked for at my local homeless shelter. I would like to start making some and donating them. Thoughts ?
Hi Chris!
My first suggestion is to check out my multi-part backpack tutorial if you haven't. In Episode 2 (I think) I provide the dimensions for all of the pieces of that pack. There isn't a "pattern" per se, but it's a simple construction that can be easily adapted to different sizes/capacities.
Second, send me an email at the jason of all trades @ gmail . com (remove the spaces). I'd love to help you out with this somehow if I can!
@@thejasonofalltrades thank you! I will check out those videos and go from there !
Whats your take on a Bernina 930 and when needed, using an optional Bernina walking foot?
I think the 930 is one of the best machines I've ever sewn with. I haven't used a Bernina walking foot attachment, but I have tried a cheap Singer one on my 201. I'm working on a video on this topic, but my impression so far is the walking foot attachment helps a bit more than I might have suspected, but still isn't going to be as capable as a true walking-foot machine. It might be enough to be worthwhile, depending on what the majority of your sewing is.
My general story arc is if one is seriously into making bags, etc. out of heavier materials, a walking-foot machine is where you are ultimately headed. That is just my opinion based on my experiences, though.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
So what would you recommend if I wanted to stitch a wetsuit material? Thanks for the info in the video, I love not having money!
It kind of depends on what you're making, and how much of it. If you want to occasionally sew some pieces of thinner wetsuit neoprene into a pouch or something, I imagine any sewing machine will do. Wetsuit neoprene can get quite thick, so a walking-foot machine will feed it better than a non-walking-foot machine.
If you want to make a wetsuit, that might be a different question.
I actually have an old wetsuit in my stash to mess around with, but I've yet to figure out the right project for it, so I haven't tried it. But it's basically just neoprene foam. My suggestion would be to try whatever sewing machine you have (or can borrow) and see how it works.
I hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
If I were you, I would visit a commercial place that repairs wetsuits and see what type of machines they use. Hey, there might even be some videos on UA-cam.
Is there any home machines that nylon thread would work with?
Hi!
I use bonded nylon thread (typically size V69) in every one of my sewing machines (I have 22, although probably 10 of them see actual use). Any home machine should be fine using nylon thread with no issues.
Ya like cats, so your advice must be good. LOL Oh yeah, great video. Just the info I've been looking for.
How did you get into sewing?
You know, I don't think I've talked about that other than a brief mention in some random video!
My very, very first sewing project, believe it or not, was making foot straps and a recovery parachute attachment for my skysurf board (I was a long-time skydiver and briefly a sky surfer in the 90s). Many, many years later, I made a Ray Jardine quilt kit (backpacking quilt, basically a sleeping bag with no zipper). A few years after that, I was unemployed and bored, and my best friend gave me a big piece of 1.1 oz ripstop nylon and told me about a hammock forum, where I found a nice tutorial on making a camping hammock. That pushed me over the edge, and I got into sewing for real. I went on UA-cam and typed "sewing for guys" into the search bar, thinking I would find sewing projects for utility items I would be interested in making. What I found was a small hole in UA-cam, so I decided to try to fill it :) ( I suppose I should make this into a video lol!)
Thanks for asking, and thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades thank you for sharing. For me it was making custom tool rolls for storing tools in my small truck. Greatness is often born from necessity. keep the great content coming.
How long have you had the Singer 237 so far?
Almost five years now. It's been one of my go-to machines, I love it.
The mistake is thinking you need to buy just one.
So many copes of your VLog
CAT is 😂😅😂😅😂😅 ! Does it WORK with you ? 😊😅😂😅
Hi!
Bobbin doesn't come to work with me, but shows up from time to time when I shoot videos at home (increasingly rarely, these days, unfortunately!).
Thanks for watching!
Jason , what kind of a light do you use ?
Love the servo motor too .
oil on your head haha okay!?
cute void
plastic or nylon parts is never good. See the old pfaff and bernina machines with them. Expensive parts and expensive service cost. the pfaff 1222 is an example. Camstack is plastic and repair could cost $300 to $500. Buy sewing machine with less plastic.
I agree, with the caveat that if the machine can be had for a low enough price, then it doesn't matter so much (in terms of someone who wants to get started in sewing). If you get a machine for free, or under $20, and it works for a few months before breaking, at least it will have provided a taste to let you know if you want to invest more in a better machine. But yes, I generally avoid plastic internals as much as possible.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I was worried we weren't going to get to see you use your wife's machine
Fear not, it's coming! :)
Dude! Sew yourself a proper pad for that knee-lift lever. 72 yards of wadded up duct tape can't be very comfortable.
LOL you're right, it wasn't! That mess came on the machine when I bought it, and has since been removed. I haven't yet gotten around to making a new pad, though (now I know what to do with the rest of my day lol!).
Thanks for watching and commenting!
This is just an ad...
What exactly do you think this is an ad for?
@@thejasonofalltrades the sewing mashine that sponsored the video....
@@sempi8159 Any idea where that check is? I never got it.
that featherweight sounds like a bag of spanners compaired too my 201 singer!,is there a problem with it,or is it worn out?.
Hi!
There are likely two issues; one, the poor girl is neglected due to rarely being used. Two, I think my camera's microphone picks up mechanical noise rather sensitively. I commonly get comments about this-or-that machine sounding excessively noisy, but in person it doesn't seem to be to me.
All that said, I'll give the Featherweight a good oiling next time I use it!
Thanks for watching and commenting!