Pro tip, if you have vents on both ends of the attic, you can buy two of these, or other attic fans, and disassemble it to reverse the direction the fan blows and then put it back together. Then have one push while the other pulls.
2nd pro tip: Yup…and if you plan it right, and your neighbor is a dick, then you can have your fan blow your hot attic exhaust air into your neighbor’s gable vent. 👍
I have an older model of this fan. Mine does not have the smart App connectivity feature. After 7 years of operation, it stopped working. My unit has a 15-year warranty. I'm about to request for a replacement. Overall, I had been very happy with this attic fan. Hopefully, the newer, updated model will have a longer life span.
Without the fan "sealed" onto the gable vent, would it just draw air from outside through the frames around it rather than from the other end of the attic? My old fan is dead, and its just mounted in space behind a large triangular gable vent. I need to get a new fan, and im kinda rhinking i need to board up the rest if the gable vent around the fan. Is that necessary/advisable?
Thank you, I have a whole house fan from 1950 I thought I had a manual for it but unable to find. I went to attic and saw the belt probably original I never changed it I’m here since 1991, went on line tried to find original it’s a Vernco, 28274DF where could I find that? Also where on the motor is the oil port. I believe back 30 yrs ago I use to oil it but my memory is shot. The motor is from St Louie Mo, USA. Model number K55RXRL-8033. Serial Num 30052. Any suggestions Ty
A proper belt at the proper tension is very important. Im not seeing anything online for that. A small motor shop may be able to help. As far as energy efficiency and CFM, it may be time for a complete upgrade.
My attic has only one gable vent, and the rest are soffit vents under eaves. It’s a metal roof, should I do the same installation as you did? Will it work?
What state you live in? How old is this house? The soffits look different unfinished like that. I've never seen the rafters just bare and painted. I'm guessing it monopoly house construction?
I can’t speak directly to my electrical bills because I have solar. But I have tested it on consecutive 100 degree days. It does keep the attic about 7 degrees cooler. That might not seem like a lot, but that’s less heat radiating into the house from above.
The instructions say the attic fan needs to be installed in front of a vent. My house is old with slits instead of vents. Is the vent necessary? The way I see it, the fan will blow out hot air whether there is a vent of not.
I've installed one attic fan on the north side of the house. It's working okay. I'm thinking of adding another fan on the south side for extra cooling. My attic is 1,000 sq ft. Are there any drawbacks to doing this?
Not that I have found. Most of the smaller fans have built in shutters and you cut your own hole. like this. amzn.to/3AEmP7p. Your best may be to cut a larger opening.
I'm curious. One gable is on the northern side of my house which gets shade from a persimmon tree from about 1pm - 2pm onward. The southern gable is just above a metal carport roof. My gables are triangular, and I really don't want to box one gable in to get a "perfect" seal so to speak. I was wondering if mounting one of these fans in the middle of the attic, pulling cool air in from the northern side, pushing the hot air out the southern side would work? Granted it wouldn't be the most efficient in doing so, but my thoughts are with a high enough CFM, in theory, it should work. My house is just 1,000sq ft. and the roof is relatively low pitch, so the attic isn't that large. When it's cool enough in the evening, I use a 20" high velocity fan (5,000CFM I think) in one window, and open the others, works like a charm. I just need something to push out the attic heat when I can't open my windows. Thoughts?
It may help a bit, but because the air would take the path of least resistance I think it would just circulate the air that’s already in the attic much more than bring in fresh air and push out hot air. It really needs to be mounted in a way to force air in our pull air out.
Most attic fans don’t have any controls at all. They work strictly off of temperature settings. This is no different. The app just lets you change those setting without climbing into the attic and changing them manually.
@@m10stuff but apps have to be updated frequently to be able to run on whatever operating system you are using. If the company stops updating the app, and you get a newer system, that app may no longer work. It will happen eventually. A mechanical thermostat stops working, you go by a new one cause they operate the same way.
so how has it been doing? Have you seen a difference in temperture in the attic ? Is it pulling hot air out of the attic and is one fan be OK for a small attic?
Thanks for this video and tips as far as where to install it about pushing the cool air through the hot air. I purchased the fan BUT my gable frame is too small. If I add piece of wood on each side I can mount it with no issues. Is that something you would Do and recommend if you were in my situation?
@pattayperformance yes. I’ve added framing a few times to have a more secure install and concentrate the air blowing out instead of back into the attic.
@@m10stuff thank you so much for your prompt response! Part of the fan will “blow” right into the original framing. I don’t think it will be an issue. Thanks also for Light switch/plug combo outlet. I have a light switch…going back to Home Depot to get the combo switch!
I read a report that these fans increase you electricity bills. Fans draw cold air from the home due to leaks causing the AC to start. A home attic must be sealed for air gaps before you attempt to play engineer.
Air is going to be pulled from the path of least resistance. There is lots of existing net free ventilation in the attic that would be used long before a tiny hole in a wall buried in insulation.
I believe this installation and cost of the product (to be kind ) is somewhat a waste of money. In this particular application, the fan will pull air directly from the left side vent. Air always pulls from the least resistance. I doubt if little or any air will be pulled from the north end. It is the same science applied to why you don’t combine ridge vents with gable vents. Please don’t misunderstand, I think ridge vents are great when used in the proper application
i live in california and where i live the humidity is pretty bad here gets about 58-68 percent humidty. Will this fan be OK to get rid of dampness and heat from the attic? Im currently having mold issues in the ceiling
It has humidity settings as well. It can definitely help with humidity. If it’s too humid (90%+), it can turn itself off so that it doesn’t bring in too much moisture.
Not going to work properly the way you have set up. Vent is much larger then fan. When fan runs as you have set it up it will not pull air from other vents but will pull air from vent you have it mounted the exhaust fan . Short circuit in another words. Must mount fan on plywood that completely covers vent not allowing air to be sucked in from that vent it was mounted on . Must cut hole on plywood size of fan and seal it to plywood with tape avoid any bypass. I couldn’t believe that you mounted as you did You never mentioned any of this only talking about mounting it. You do mention using shields that’s what they are for but need to cover entire vent to seal it around the vent.
I’m understanding that you think I should completely block the gable vent next to the fan? My concern with that is blocking natural ventilation when the fan is not running. Also if there’s a whole house fan installed, it needs more ventilation. I can’t block 2-3sf of ventilation.
@@m10stuff caveman English ? Ok caveman electrican what’s your next job in California doing illegal installations of fans. All your wonderful bs is wrong you and set an forget it talk is not going to help do anything to made it effectively do anything to cool the attic . So mr caveman go stick you head in the ground and do something else besides waiting people’s money with your half assed installations you claim to cool an attic. I see you are getting a terrific response to to your caveman electrical electrical installations good job ! Your wonderful
Yeah you didn't think this one through, I agree with the OP. 1. the fan will pull air in the attic from right around the fan because of the opening. You even talked about why they provide the flashing with the fan, and then ignored that. Lol 2. Idk what geographic region your in, but most of the US has warm air moving from south to north. Putting the exhaust on the S facing side is just fighting the natural movement of air. Ever heard of "pissing in the wind" that is exactly what this is doing.
You would be better off placing it in a new purpose-built opening opposite that huge vent. That beautiful oversize vent compromises attic air passthrough by allowing bypass air in, and the large horizontal metal louvre slats and wood structures impede flow. This is effectively a sabotaged job.
You’re right. But nobody makes attic vents with a purpose-built opening for a fan. That’s why there are universal fans like this that still help increase airflow in an attic. This is how it was made to be installed. Nothing sabotaged about it. It still draws air in from other vents and blows it out the attic. Mission accomplished!
Pro tip, if you have vents on both ends of the attic, you can buy two of these, or other attic fans, and disassemble it to reverse the direction the fan blows and then put it back together. Then have one push while the other pulls.
That is a good idea. Especially for bigger attics
It’s just amazing how very close your next door neighbors are, I couldn’t imagine your back yard all your neighbors looking in.
That’s why there are fences
Omg neighbors! For the love of god!
You think land is cheap
2nd pro tip: Yup…and if you plan it right, and your neighbor is a dick, then you can have your fan blow your hot attic exhaust air into your neighbor’s gable vent. 👍
I have an older model of this fan. Mine does not have the smart App connectivity feature. After 7 years of operation, it stopped working. My unit has a 15-year warranty. I'm about to request for a replacement. Overall, I had been very happy with this attic fan. Hopefully, the newer, updated model will have a longer life span.
That’s a huge benefit to their long warranties
Without the fan "sealed" onto the gable vent, would it just draw air from outside through the frames around it rather than from the other end of the attic? My old fan is dead, and its just mounted in space behind a large triangular gable vent. I need to get a new fan, and im kinda rhinking i need to board up the rest if the gable vent around the fan. Is that necessary/advisable?
It would be better to seal it up. That’s what the shields are for.
Buying me one man. Thanks
Will do. $500 for shipping 😃
Thank you, I have a whole house fan from 1950 I thought I had a manual for it but unable to find.
I went to attic and saw the belt probably original I never changed it I’m here since 1991, went on line tried to find original it’s a Vernco, 28274DF where could I find that? Also where on the motor is the oil port. I believe back 30 yrs ago I use to oil it but my memory is shot.
The motor is from St Louie Mo, USA.
Model number K55RXRL-8033.
Serial Num 30052. Any suggestions
Ty
A proper belt at the proper tension is very important. Im not seeing anything online for that. A small motor shop may be able to help. As far as energy efficiency and CFM, it may be time for a complete upgrade.
amzn.to/3xNRrlP
My attic has only one gable vent, and the rest are soffit vents under eaves. It’s a metal roof, should I do the same installation as you did? Will it work?
Yes. It will pull air in through the soffit vents
What state you live in? How old is this house? The soffits look different unfinished like that. I've never seen the rafters just bare and painted. I'm guessing it monopoly house construction?
Northern California. It’s very common here. No real soffits
Honestly, I live in West Virginia and haven't ever seen a house with closed in soffits. They're all just open wood which has been painted around here.
Im also from California (central California 90+ days every summer). How has this helped lower your home temperature/electrical bills?
I can’t speak directly to my electrical bills because I have solar. But I have tested it on consecutive 100 degree days. It does keep the attic about 7 degrees cooler. That might not seem like a lot, but that’s less heat radiating into the house from above.
The instructions say the attic fan needs to be installed in front of a vent. My house is old with slits instead of vents. Is the vent necessary? The way I see it, the fan will blow out hot air whether there is a vent of not.
If it’s not installed at a vent, it will simply recirculate the air in the attic and not blow it out.
I've installed one attic fan on the north side of the house. It's working okay. I'm thinking of adding another fan on the south side for extra cooling. My attic is 1,000 sq ft. Are there any drawbacks to doing this?
They will work against each other
Should you wire mesh on the vent to keep out critters?
The vent on the house should already have the mesh. If it doesn’t, I would recommend it, yes.
Do they make different diameter fan ... my Gable opening is on the small side.
Not that I have found. Most of the smaller fans have built in shutters and you cut your own hole. like this. amzn.to/3AEmP7p. Your best may be to cut a larger opening.
I'm curious. One gable is on the northern side of my house which gets shade from a persimmon tree from about 1pm - 2pm onward. The southern gable is just above a metal carport roof. My gables are triangular, and I really don't want to box one gable in to get a "perfect" seal so to speak. I was wondering if mounting one of these fans in the middle of the attic, pulling cool air in from the northern side, pushing the hot air out the southern side would work? Granted it wouldn't be the most efficient in doing so, but my thoughts are with a high enough CFM, in theory, it should work. My house is just 1,000sq ft. and the roof is relatively low pitch, so the attic isn't that large.
When it's cool enough in the evening, I use a 20" high velocity fan (5,000CFM I think) in one window, and open the others, works like a charm. I just need something to push out the attic heat when I can't open my windows. Thoughts?
It may help a bit, but because the air would take the path of least resistance I think it would just circulate the air that’s already in the attic much more than bring in fresh air and push out hot air. It really needs to be mounted in a way to force air in our pull air out.
@@m10stuff I appreciate your reply, I'll take your advice in to consideration.
I’m not crazy about it having an app to operate it. Apps always fail after a few years.
Most attic fans don’t have any controls at all. They work strictly off of temperature settings. This is no different. The app just lets you change those setting without climbing into the attic and changing them manually.
@@m10stuff gotcha.
@@m10stuff but apps have to be updated frequently to be able to run on whatever operating system you are using. If the company stops updating the app, and you get a newer system, that app may no longer work. It will happen eventually. A mechanical thermostat stops working, you go by a new one cause they operate the same way.
Did the customer notice a difference?
He said he seems like he’s used his AC less this summer. But I don’t have any hard data
so how has it been doing? Have you seen a difference in temperture in the attic ?
Is it pulling hot air out of the attic and is one fan be OK for a small attic?
One fan is usually plenty. At 3000 CFM it will replace the air in the attic every 2-3 minutes. It keeps the attic about 8-12 degrees cooler.
@m10stuff the rats will love the temp. I'm just kidding.
Thanks for this video and tips as far as where to install it about pushing the cool air through the hot air.
I purchased the fan BUT my gable frame is too small. If I add piece of wood on each side I can mount it with no issues.
Is that something you would
Do and recommend if you were in my situation?
@pattayperformance yes. I’ve added framing a few times to have a more secure install and concentrate the air blowing out instead of back into the attic.
@@m10stuff thank you so much for your prompt response! Part of the fan will “blow” right into the original framing. I don’t think it will be an issue.
Thanks also for Light switch/plug combo outlet. I have a light switch…going back to Home Depot to get the combo switch!
I read a report that these fans increase you electricity bills. Fans draw cold air from the home due to leaks causing the AC to start. A home attic must be sealed for air gaps before you attempt to play engineer.
Air is going to be pulled from the path of least resistance. There is lots of existing net free ventilation in the attic that would be used long before a tiny hole in a wall buried in insulation.
@@m10stuffthat is a fair argument. I do have concerns though for my situation. I have lots of led can type lights.
@@citrus1973 the can lights should have insulation over them to stop air flow. And the fixtures need be rated IC Insulated cieling
What size is that fan
The link in the description will give you all the details.
quietcoolsystems.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/QC-AFG-SMT-ES-3.0-V5.pdf
I believe this installation and cost of the product (to be kind ) is somewhat a waste of money. In this particular application, the fan will pull air directly from the left side vent. Air always pulls from the least resistance. I doubt if little or any air will be pulled from the north end.
It is the same science applied to why you don’t combine ridge vents with gable vents.
Please don’t misunderstand, I think ridge vents are great when used in the proper application
If you have a similar situation all you’d have to do is block a vent.
i live in california and where i live the humidity is pretty bad here gets about 58-68 percent humidty.
Will this fan be OK to get rid of dampness and heat from the attic? Im currently having mold issues in the ceiling
It has humidity settings as well. It can definitely help with humidity. If it’s too humid (90%+), it can turn itself off so that it doesn’t bring in too much moisture.
thank you i will go ahead and order one of these.
thank you for the great video @@m10stuff
Not going to work properly the way you have set up. Vent is much larger then fan. When fan runs as you have set it up it will not pull air from other vents but will pull air from vent you have it mounted the exhaust fan . Short circuit in another words.
Must mount fan on plywood that completely covers vent not allowing air to be sucked in from that vent it was mounted on . Must cut hole on plywood size of fan and seal it to plywood with tape avoid any bypass.
I couldn’t believe that you mounted as you did
You never mentioned any of this only talking about mounting it. You do mention using shields that’s what they are for but need to cover entire vent to seal it around the vent.
I’m understanding that you think I should completely block the gable vent next to the fan? My concern with that is blocking natural ventilation when the fan is not running. Also if there’s a whole house fan installed, it needs more ventilation. I can’t block 2-3sf of ventilation.
@@m10stuff caveman English ? Ok caveman electrican what’s your next job in California doing illegal installations of fans. All your wonderful bs is wrong you and set an forget it talk is not going to help do anything to made it effectively do anything to cool the attic . So mr caveman go stick you head in the ground and do something else besides waiting people’s money with your half assed installations you claim to cool an attic.
I see you are getting a terrific response to to your caveman electrical electrical installations good job ! Your wonderful
Yeah you didn't think this one through, I agree with the OP.
1. the fan will pull air in the attic from right around the fan because of the opening. You even talked about why they provide the flashing with the fan, and then ignored that. Lol
2. Idk what geographic region your in, but most of the US has warm air moving from south to north. Putting the exhaust on the S facing side is just fighting the natural movement of air.
Ever heard of "pissing in the wind" that is exactly what this is doing.
adding a outlet doesn't make it a dedicated circuit by any means...you would need to go straight to the panel
@@TK-ri5eg a dedicated circuit is not needed for these. I was referring to the furnace
You would be better off placing it in a new purpose-built opening opposite that huge vent. That beautiful oversize vent compromises attic air passthrough by allowing bypass air in, and the large horizontal metal louvre slats and wood structures impede flow. This is effectively a sabotaged job.
You’re right. But nobody makes attic vents with a purpose-built opening for a fan. That’s why there are universal fans like this that still help increase airflow in an attic. This is how it was made to be installed. Nothing sabotaged about it. It still draws air in from other vents and blows it out the attic. Mission accomplished!
Rats.? Not mice..Rats in your attic..Much bigger problem .$$$ To fix that first..😢😢
That’s super cheap and easy to fix. They were already dead