These heads where not torqued down correctly to start with , point me in the direction of where you found that the heads need to me removed in a reverse sequence I would like to read up on that. Thanks for watching.
@@JustCantSitStill I was told this by several engine builders over the years. It also makes sense since you torque the bolts in a certain sequence to evenly distribute clamping force and effectively compress the head gasket. You want to relieve that stored energy in much the same way. If you are planning to have the head surface machined, this would be less important, if at all. I believe there is actually an official removal sequence for LS head bolts. And no impact when removing. I do run bolts down lightly with an impact driver in the interest of time, but basically just beyond finger tight. Then it's all hand tools.
@@BilletGarage I have never seen anything about that for LS or gen 5 Lt engines , the gm service manual states to remove head bolts the only time it list a sequence is in the install process. But I am not a engine builder so I digress. Collectively me and my pops have cam swapped over 100 engine’s between the two platforms and never had an issue with the process or had one come back for a problem cause on our part. I do appreciate the comment and support but thats why I have the disclaimer in the video description. Everyone has their own idea of what’s right or wrong, we stick with what works for us. If I remember right I did remove the bolts in a “sequence” after remove the tricky Allen head bolt. Pops on the other hand just blasted them off how ever he wanted to at the time , he was just trying to help out but he is the boss 😂
Been noticing nearly 1qt of oil burn every 1-1.5k. Currently 105k miles on the engine. What’s the typical cause in these engines for this amount of oil burn ?
Had the same thing happening with mine. Lets just say she is sitting in the back yard doing this same procedure at 108,000 miles. 2020 chevy silverado 5.3 L84
When you guys cam these engines and do the dod delete do you absolutely have to tune the vehicle after?? What would happen if you did all this, started it up and tried driving around??
Absolutely, we don’t get into tuning but yeah they will not run right , more air idle normally needs to be commanded and fuel trims need to be adjusted and idle speed ect . I don’t pretend to know a lot about tuning at all I wish I did.
Yes, they are. i have one . I love it dearly it had over 118,000 miles on it when I bought it she has been troble free since day one is mean she needs a little work but she's fine
Thanks for watching and happy your enjoying, we don’t put any oil in these as they are getting picked up dropped off or shipped out. I would probably stick with the factory weight range but depending on the use of the engine a different weight may be beneficial.
Hello I have been watching your videos now for a min and I’m curious would you guys do a tear down and build video of a L83 all the way down to a forged steel crankshaft and aftermarket connecting rods/pistons and a cam install? I’ll be even pay for your time to make the video I’ve just never done an engine build and I’m curious of the things I need to be cautious of while doing my rebuild. Any help is greatly appreciated gentleman. Thanks for your he content!
We appreciate you and the continued support, we don’t have some of the tools needed to replace bearing and file and fit piston rings , also we normally only get low mile engines and the people just usually want a cam and supercharger etc. machine shops are more equipped for what you are looking for. 98% of what we do are for people who just want a nice cruiser. You got to think a 6.2 already has a forged crank and they make 420hp stock so add 80ish with a cam and 20ish with headers, with a good tune your well into the 500+ range which is more than enough unless your doing nothing but racing.
We will but don’t see them much anymore. Normally they come in so incomplete we end up having for find everything for them and spend too much time looking for missing parts. Our opinion the LT is far better.
Awesome!!!!
Thanks 🙏, please be sure to subscribe and check out more of my content!
Love your videos but removing those head bolts with an impact and not in reverse torque sequence gave me anxiety! LOL
These heads where not torqued down correctly to start with , point me in the direction of where you found that the heads need to me removed in a reverse sequence I would like to read up on that. Thanks for watching.
@@JustCantSitStill I was told this by several engine builders over the years. It also makes sense since you torque the bolts in a certain sequence to evenly distribute clamping force and effectively compress the head gasket. You want to relieve that stored energy in much the same way. If you are planning to have the head surface machined, this would be less important, if at all. I believe there is actually an official removal sequence for LS head bolts. And no impact when removing. I do run bolts down lightly with an impact driver in the interest of time, but basically just beyond finger tight. Then it's all hand tools.
@@BilletGarage I have never seen anything about that for LS or gen 5 Lt engines , the gm service manual states to remove head bolts the only time it list a sequence is in the install process. But I am not a engine builder so I digress. Collectively me and my pops have cam swapped over 100 engine’s between the two platforms and never had an issue with the process or had one come back for a problem cause on our part. I do appreciate the comment and support but thats why I have the disclaimer in the video description. Everyone has their own idea of what’s right or wrong, we stick with what works for us. If I remember right I did remove the bolts in a “sequence” after remove the tricky Allen head bolt. Pops on the other hand just blasted them off how ever he wanted to at the time , he was just trying to help out but he is the boss 😂
Been noticing nearly 1qt of oil burn every 1-1.5k. Currently 105k miles on the engine. What’s the typical cause in these engines for this amount of oil burn ?
I would say the AFM/dod , but not 100% sure.
Had the same thing happening with mine. Lets just say she is sitting in the back yard doing this same procedure at 108,000 miles. 2020 chevy silverado 5.3 L84
When you guys cam these engines and do the dod delete do you absolutely have to tune the vehicle after?? What would happen if you did all this, started it up and tried driving around??
Absolutely, we don’t get into tuning but yeah they will not run right , more air idle normally needs to be commanded and fuel trims need to be adjusted and idle speed ect .
I don’t pretend to know a lot about tuning at all I wish I did.
Ever figure out a rear crossmember and if so did it fix the rear suspension bind
I have no idea what you’re asking ?!?
The 5.3 is a great engine except for the afm management system
Yep agreed, we always recommend AFM/DoD removal.
Yes, they are. i have one . I love it dearly it had over 118,000 miles on it when I bought it she has been troble free since day one is mean she needs a little work but she's fine
Like your videos now after you change the cam tsp do ya still use the 0-20 oil or do you use something else
Thanks for watching and happy your enjoying, we don’t put any oil in these as they are getting picked up dropped off or shipped out. I would probably stick with the factory weight range but depending on the use of the engine a different weight may be beneficial.
So that is a L86 cam kit going in a L83? I’m able to get my hands on a l86 kit but not sure it it will work with the L83 that’s in my Silverado.
Not a lot of difference, between the two, we always recommend calling them as they are the experts on their cams. This one turned out find not issues.
Hello I have been watching your videos now for a min and I’m curious would you guys do a tear down and build video of a L83 all the way down to a forged steel crankshaft and aftermarket connecting rods/pistons and a cam install? I’ll be even pay for your time to make the video I’ve just never done an engine build and I’m curious of the things I need to be cautious of while doing my rebuild. Any help is greatly appreciated gentleman. Thanks for your he content!
We appreciate you and the continued support, we don’t have some of the tools needed to replace bearing and file and fit piston rings , also we normally only get low mile engines and the people just usually want a cam and supercharger etc. machine shops are more equipped for what you are looking for. 98% of what we do are for people who just want a nice cruiser. You got to think a 6.2 already has a forged crank and they make 420hp stock so add 80ish with a cam and 20ish with headers, with a good tune your well into the 500+ range which is more than enough unless your doing nothing but racing.
Gobble Gobble and a special shout-out to Frank and Son.
Hey hey 👋 buddy
Where can i contact you guys ? 👌🏼👍🏼
Hit me up on instagram link in the video description
Are you still building LS engines?
We will but don’t see them much anymore. Normally they come in so incomplete we end up having for find everything for them and spend too much time looking for missing parts.
Our opinion the LT is far better.
Super Charged LS3 goes rumpity rump
ua-cam.com/video/CTmX4IxmKkI/v-deo.html