+ Update + You can now buy ringfield motor adaptors for your own Lima loco at: www.strathpefferjunction.com/hornby-lima-ringfield-motor-upgrade-conversion-kits
Thanks for your great explanation of this procedure. Do we have to make sure we get a motor with the correct spindle diameter because I was wondering what stops the small white cog from spinning on the spindle? also is there anything different to know regarding old "Dapol" class 56 (from about 20 years ago) Thanks
It was helpful to know WHY you were changing the Motor !! I've got a couple old Locos that make a dreadful whining or clunking noise, and I've got 5 or 6 old CD/DVD Rom Drives that I could take apart & use.
Yes. For me it's about performance, reliability and noise. However, with a bit of tlc and maintenance, it's still possible to get these older style motors running reasonably well, and if yours fall into that category and you're happy with them, I wouldn't bother changing them out just now. If your old ringfields are running like a bag of nails, then it's definitely worth considering.
A few drops of Oil used to do wonders on my old Class 43 HST (125) and it still goes like the clappers after years and years in the cupboard. I think I'll defer to the Pros on the others and take them in for Servicing. I've got a Bachmann Class 170 that DANCES down the Track... you know... Slow, Slow, Quick, Quick, Slow. It stutters worse than Porky Pig !!
Hehe. Yes, I think we've all had one or two like that! I have seen some very experienced Lima owners get great performance out of their models, and if you can achieve that either yourself or via someone else, it's definitely worth a shot. However, if the loco remains troublesome, replacing the motor is a good option.
No problem. Glad you enjoyed it. Quite a long one, but then again, the project itself takes quite a bit of time! I've thought about doing them more as highlights to keep them shorter, but I've had quite a few messages from folk saying they like the fact they're step-by-step...may do a mix of both going forward! 🙂
Thanks for showing I’ve a couple of Lima locos which don’t run so well ...I might try and dig out some motors and give it a go ...thanks for sharing....mind you I’ll have to watch this about a 100 times 😱..... yep I always take pics good idea ...regards Fred
Thanks, Fred. It takes a bit of time to do, but it's not too complicated. If you drop out the brass bush step as some folk do and just use a length of brass tube to help align the motor (which is then withdrawn once glue), it does remove what is probably the most fiddly step. I still favour the bush as it provides extra support, but it does require everything to be lined up just right. Whilst editing these two videos, I was thinking about different approaches and I've got a couple of ideas that don't involve glue or bushes, so I may do another video on them using spare Lima bogie that I have lying around. It'll probably be a while before I get to it though, as my focus is turning to the layout for a few weeks :)
The Lima gear is very straight forward to replace. The Hornby one is tricker. You really need a gear puller to pull it off without damaging anything, although you can also go it with a screwdriver if you're careful.
@@StrathpefferJunction thanks for that. I'll have a go with them and see how they get on, most are at the dead stage of life for the motor anyhow so nothing to lose really
Hi... Can you explain to me about the specific dimension of motor, plastic gear, and electronic parts? Because I'll try upgrade my Loco ALCO 1930 from DC to DCC... Thanks... and congratulations for your class....
For Lima, you'll need an 8 tooth gear. If you have a bobo bogie, then you can use a 12x24mm cd motor. If you have a coco bogie, you'll need to find a slimmer motor, but they are hard to come by these days unfortunately. For dcc, you just need a decoder with cv5/cv6 functions.
Hi Dave, thanks for the vid! I have 1 or 2 worn out DSB Class MZ, Lima used to be the only brand that made a model of this, and it is not a bad model. My commutator is loose, the bearings are worn out, and the gears have almost half a millimeter of rocking around radially.... do you know about a source for spare gears? Which motor did you use? And do you know the TPI of the gears? Anyway as an alternative, I will try a complete power bogey from Aliexpress! Thank you - Søren
Hi, love these motors, bought some via ebay. Very easy to fit and run fantastically. One question though. If I were to sell my loco's (probably via bay) would there be any legal issues? Firstly for me, because I have modified the loco. And secondly you, as you supplied a non standard part.
So long as you don't market them as having original motors, there won't be a problem. Lots of people have switched out old, failed ringfield motors, so it's becoming quite common to see them. What I normally do it retain the ringfield in a wee bag, so I can sell it alongside should anyone want it. But that's just personal choice. It doesn't need to be done.
Hi there this is an interesting video but I need to ask what is the power to weight ratio? If I put one in my HST would it pull 8 coaches easily or struggle? How much better will the locomotives be? Cheets
That's a good question. In terms of how much 'better' is the loco, if installed properly, it should run more smoothly, quieter and have better control. That's on light engine. The same will be true with a reasonable train, but when you're getting towards a prototypical rake, I honestly don't know if it will cope (I suspect it will) or whether it will overstress the motor over time and reduce its lifespan (possible, I guess). There is reasonable torque in these wee motors, but I don't run a prototypical rake, so don't have any first hand experience of that I'm afraid. Making sure wheels are running smoothly and are the right gauge (using and back-to-back gauge) will help. I guess it will also depend on whether you're running it flat or on inclines/declines etc. I'll cast about and see if I can find out anything and let you know. Likewise, if you come across any experience of longer rakes, I'd love to know too.
Strathpeffer Junction hey Dave I watched the video and fund it interesting too. But it looks like it will pull a descent rake. I was thinking the best thing to do will be to convert one and run it. I have inclines or will have inclines so my locomotives will be working. Anyway cheers for letting me know
No problem. What I did the first time I did one of these conversions was buy a spare motor bogie from ebay. I worked out which was in the worst condition (the spare or the one on the loco) and then installed the CD motor in the worst one. I meant if it all when wrong, I could still put the original one back in. However, I'm currently trialling a 3D printed adaptor to enable these CD motors to be used without any gluing etc., so that would make it all fully reversible. Watch this space!
I can answer this question having put can motors in class 43s and 91s successfully. You'll get lots of power and torque out of the motor, the issue is not power, it's TRACTION. Those two traction tyres just don't cut the mustard, you'll get lots of wheelspin. I have managed to get a class 43 to pull a considerable rake of 6 carriages using two power cars both upgraded with can motors.
+ Update + You can now buy ringfield motor adaptors for your own Lima loco at: www.strathpefferjunction.com/hornby-lima-ringfield-motor-upgrade-conversion-kits
Thanks for your great explanation of this procedure. Do we have to make sure we get a motor with the correct spindle diameter because I was wondering what stops the small white cog from spinning on the spindle? also is there anything different to know regarding old "Dapol" class 56 (from about 20 years ago)
Thanks
I love those opening sounds. Reminds me of my stomach after a vindaloo.
🤣
It was helpful to know WHY you were changing the Motor !! I've got a couple old Locos that make a dreadful whining or clunking noise, and I've got 5 or 6 old CD/DVD Rom Drives that I could take apart & use.
Yes. For me it's about performance, reliability and noise. However, with a bit of tlc and maintenance, it's still possible to get these older style motors running reasonably well, and if yours fall into that category and you're happy with them, I wouldn't bother changing them out just now. If your old ringfields are running like a bag of nails, then it's definitely worth considering.
A few drops of Oil used to do wonders on my old Class 43 HST (125) and it still goes like the clappers after years and years in the cupboard. I think I'll defer to the Pros on the others and take them in for Servicing. I've got a Bachmann Class 170 that DANCES down the Track... you know... Slow, Slow, Quick, Quick, Slow. It stutters worse than Porky Pig !!
Hehe. Yes, I think we've all had one or two like that! I have seen some very experienced Lima owners get great performance out of their models, and if you can achieve that either yourself or via someone else, it's definitely worth a shot. However, if the loco remains troublesome, replacing the motor is a good option.
nice "how to" Dave... thanks for sharing... vinny
No problem. Glad you enjoyed it. Quite a long one, but then again, the project itself takes quite a bit of time! I've thought about doing them more as highlights to keep them shorter, but I've had quite a few messages from folk saying they like the fact they're step-by-step...may do a mix of both going forward! 🙂
Thanks for showing I’ve a couple of Lima locos which don’t run so well ...I might try and dig out some motors and give it a go ...thanks for sharing....mind you I’ll have to watch this about a 100 times 😱..... yep I always take pics good idea ...regards Fred
Thanks, Fred. It takes a bit of time to do, but it's not too complicated. If you drop out the brass bush step as some folk do and just use a length of brass tube to help align the motor (which is then withdrawn once glue), it does remove what is probably the most fiddly step. I still favour the bush as it provides extra support, but it does require everything to be lined up just right. Whilst editing these two videos, I was thinking about different approaches and I've got a couple of ideas that don't involve glue or bushes, so I may do another video on them using spare Lima bogie that I have lying around. It'll probably be a while before I get to it though, as my focus is turning to the layout for a few weeks :)
I'm tempted to do this with the Lima/Hornby models I have, though the problem is that gear on the wheel as I model in p4.
The Lima gear is very straight forward to replace. The Hornby one is tricker. You really need a gear puller to pull it off without damaging anything, although you can also go it with a screwdriver if you're careful.
@@StrathpefferJunction thanks for that. I'll have a go with them and see how they get on, most are at the dead stage of life for the motor anyhow so nothing to lose really
@@bionicgeekgrrl Best of luck!
Thanks 😀 and thanks for posting useful videos, appreciated.
Hi... Can you explain to me about the specific dimension of motor, plastic gear, and electronic parts? Because I'll try upgrade my Loco ALCO 1930 from DC to DCC... Thanks... and congratulations for your class....
For Lima, you'll need an 8 tooth gear. If you have a bobo bogie, then you can use a 12x24mm cd motor. If you have a coco bogie, you'll need to find a slimmer motor, but they are hard to come by these days unfortunately. For dcc, you just need a decoder with cv5/cv6 functions.
Hi Dave, thanks for the vid! I have 1 or 2 worn out DSB Class MZ, Lima used to be the only brand that made a model of this, and it is not a bad model. My commutator is loose, the bearings are worn out, and the gears have almost half a millimeter of rocking around radially.... do you know about a source for spare gears? Which motor did you use? And do you know the TPI of the gears? Anyway as an alternative, I will try a complete power bogey from Aliexpress! Thank you - Søren
Hi, love these motors, bought some via ebay. Very easy to fit and run fantastically. One question though. If I were to sell my loco's (probably via bay) would there be any legal issues? Firstly for me, because I have modified the loco. And secondly you, as you supplied a non standard part.
As long as you state in the description that it's modified, shouldn't be a problem
So long as you don't market them as having original motors, there won't be a problem. Lots of people have switched out old, failed ringfield motors, so it's becoming quite common to see them. What I normally do it retain the ringfield in a wee bag, so I can sell it alongside should anyone want it. But that's just personal choice. It doesn't need to be done.
Hi there this is an interesting video but I need to ask what is the power to weight ratio? If I put one in my HST would it pull 8 coaches easily or struggle? How much better will the locomotives be? Cheets
That's a good question. In terms of how much 'better' is the loco, if installed properly, it should run more smoothly, quieter and have better control. That's on light engine. The same will be true with a reasonable train, but when you're getting towards a prototypical rake, I honestly don't know if it will cope (I suspect it will) or whether it will overstress the motor over time and reduce its lifespan (possible, I guess). There is reasonable torque in these wee motors, but I don't run a prototypical rake, so don't have any first hand experience of that I'm afraid. Making sure wheels are running smoothly and are the right gauge (using and back-to-back gauge) will help. I guess it will also depend on whether you're running it flat or on inclines/declines etc. I'll cast about and see if I can find out anything and let you know. Likewise, if you come across any experience of longer rakes, I'd love to know too.
Hi Guy. I've just come across this video, showing two different CD motor conversions pulling sizable rakes: ua-cam.com/video/3ttDQteyO9k/v-deo.html
Strathpeffer Junction hey Dave I watched the video and fund it interesting too. But it looks like it will pull a descent rake. I was thinking the best thing to do will be to convert one and run it. I have inclines or will have inclines so my locomotives will be working. Anyway cheers for letting me know
No problem. What I did the first time I did one of these conversions was buy a spare motor bogie from ebay. I worked out which was in the worst condition (the spare or the one on the loco) and then installed the CD motor in the worst one. I meant if it all when wrong, I could still put the original one back in. However, I'm currently trialling a 3D printed adaptor to enable these CD motors to be used without any gluing etc., so that would make it all fully reversible. Watch this space!
I can answer this question having put can motors in class 43s and 91s successfully. You'll get lots of power and torque out of the motor, the issue is not power, it's TRACTION. Those two traction tyres just don't cut the mustard, you'll get lots of wheelspin. I have managed to get a class 43 to pull a considerable rake of 6 carriages using two power cars both upgraded with can motors.