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EIBOS Cyclopes Filament dryer review. Can it dry Nylon too?
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- Опубліковано 17 сер 2024
- According to specifications, the Eibos Cyclopes filament dryer has great properties and according to website it can dry even Nylon too, which is the most moisture sensitive material. Temperature can be set to 70°C and it constantly blow the hot air which exit on the top of the box. The relative humidity can be followed on integrated RH meter (probably this is the reason for its name, Cyclops, the creature with one eye). In this video I tried to dry PETG and Nylon filaments which spend the night in water. Test is maybe too extreme, but it give us good picture about capabilities of this filament dryer.
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Materials used in video: Prusament PETG (orange) and Gembird Nylon (Blue)
Contents:
0:00 Introduction
0:53 Unboxing
4:02 Max spools size
5:45 Power on, display, menu
7:44 Why to use filament dryer
8:28 Preparing the test
9:10 3D printing wet PETG, Nylon
10:13 Drying PETG, Nylon
13:31 3D printing dry PETG
14:52 3D printing dry Nylon
16:59 About the noise
17:35 Conclusions
#eibos #filamentdryer #3dprinting
Professional as always! Dr.igor
The fan cycle noise issue will be upgraded in the next production.
We really appreciate of your suggestion, we will make improvement in the future!
Would be great that for next production allows shipping to Argentina.
I've purchased the Cyclopes and have to send it to a postal address in the U.S that ships to Argentina.
This triangulation has cost me $150 USD, more than the product itself.
are you going to go to a rpm regulation instead of on/off? if so, when would we see something like that in production models would you think?
Please use a high quality fan like noctua, and a high quality humidity guage, not like this $2 one. Then I will buy the product
Eibos, you guys need to redesign the enclosure so it can open at the top and the sides if needed, as its not very easy to replace a roll while another is in use as it unspools the filament, and also fix the air direction i it should go around the filament and not directly on it.
has the fan been upgraded / improved?
Excellent review! Based on your hard work I ordered one. Can't wait to see an improvement in my prints. You have a new subscriber. God's speed.
Great video, I really like your before and after test prints. You really demonstrate the importance of filament drying. If I bought that dryer I would put a solid state relay and a silent Noctua fan. I believe the fan noise would be fairly tolerable once this was done. Keep up the good work. I really enjoy your reviews.
Thank you for your great content. This video convinced me to get this dryer, I believe it is still the best on the market for the price!
That was quite some detail there. Thank you for putting in the time and educating me.
Thanks for all of your testing! That helps all in the field 😀
I use a space heater, which is basically a fan with a heating element. Wind drags moisture from a heated surface much easier. Where I live, the air humidity doesn't go down by 60%, but with the fan and heater directly on the filament roll, I print normal even on cold and rainy days. In winter the temperature is around five to fifteen degrees Celsius, but with many rainy days. You don't need to use the heater all the time you print, it's a $10 solution that works.
First off the temperature readout on the one I received does not show what the actual temp in the unit is, it only displays what the temp is set to. You have no idea what the actual temperature is.
The main issue I have with this unit is it has a MAJOR DESIGN FLAW. It exhausts the hot air out at the bottom directly onto the filament in ONE SPOT fusing it together. The hot air should exhaust out around the base parameter and up the sides avoiding direct heating the filament.
I returned the piece of junk.
You're doing great work, sir. Well done.
Yes he really does! When i subscribed on his channel actually i did not even know that he is Hungarian. i always watching english content. I thought he is Russian or Serbian. I found his channel really down to earth, like his simple, humble testings which are always spot on.
I love your videos, always a great approach. Thank you!
Interesting. I've just has a discussion with Polymaker about drying their Polymide CoPA nylon. Having had a reel which originally printed very nicely stored in a dry box with with silica gel for about 4 months at between 16 and 21% RH, it had absorbed enough moisture to print badly (unavoidable stringing). As I had nearly run out, I had another roll unopened, so I tried it. It also showed slight signs of excessive moisture, never printing quite as well as the 1st roll did when new.
After discussing with Polymaker tech support, they recommended drying at 100 degrees C for 8 hours. I dried both rolls for 11 hours at 90 degrees C in a kitchen oven with a K type thermocouple gauge for an accurate temperature reading, and both rolls printed nicely again, with no stringing. I was worried that the spools may distort at 100 degrees, but they did not. I will probably be upgrading the oven with a PID controller and an SSR, as I have other uses for a larger temperature controlled oven too.
Thanks for this useful info. Yes, 70°C/12h is some minimum for drying the nylon. 100°C/8h sounds reasonable. And good point, you have to be careful with spools, most of them will deform on 100°C. Good manufacturer knows that nylon should be on better spool to survive higher drying temperatures.
I really enjoy your videos and website. I use a PrintDry Pro to dry my filaments a few hours before use. On the printer enclosure I have been using the Polymaker Polybox with great success. However, for longer/larger prints, I wanted a dryer that could maintain temp and humidity. I just ordered one of these and my only wish asides click you mention, I wish they made a tall top piece for 2 or 3kg spools! Thanks!
First of all, thanks for the video. On your older videos u sometimes measure the power consumption and thats always good to know. But keep up the good work!
Igor, what I always miss in your reviews is a tear-down to see what is actually inside. Is this thing really using an AC heater or is there just a power-supply in the bottom? What protection measures does it have? As you think it is using a relay, then what if that would fail in the on state? Fail it will after N cycles, so I guess there's 50% chance of failing in on state, no? Well, depending on exactly what is used for the switching of course, which is why a tear-down is crucial. Does it have a secondary point to interrupt the power (ex. thermal fuse) or will it keep heating until something catches fire? Similarly, what if the thermistor fails? There's a lot to do about thermal runaway protection for 3d printers, but those hot-ends are typically way less than 100W, so I guess a dryer like this should have similar safeguards. Sure, the same goes for a food dehydrator or other DC dryer, but it's the type of thing I'd love to see covered in reviews ... As someone remarked already, if you're only interested in reaching a high temperature, you can take a heat-gun. Have it blow full force into a card-board box for 5 hours and you're guaranteed to dry (and much more than dry) any filament in that box ;-)
Great video 👍
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍
Love your videos! Can you try exploring ways we can do some fan mods like using some Noctua fans to reduce the fan noise generated? And possibly ways to mod the thermostat switches? That will definitely bring some attention to your videos because I can't find anything else relating to this dryer and mods!
I ran and seven spools of petg through this set to 65C for 4hr (suggested by sunlu for their filament) before I noticed the eibos was fusing all the filament together at the bottom.
The bottom of the spools seems to way overheat. I think it'd need to get around 85C for that to happen.
The ruined filament cost about as much as the machine. 😞
I bought this dryer because of your videos and I am encountering a serious problem that I do not understand how you have not commented.
The dryer releases the air at the same temperature always, very high, and in the area where it is giving the filament roll, it reaches the glassy temperature, causing the filament to join.
It is a disaster....
Did you not see this problem?
They are getting better; maybe in a year or so they will be not so flawed 😅
I don't understand why most filament dryers can't operate at useful temperatures for materials that you'd especially want a dryer for, aka nylons, PC. Most top out at 55c.
Probably, because it is cheaper. BUT for most filaments 55C is enough (with FAN and silica gel). Only Nylon requires much higher drying temperature.
I like that it has holes at the top. Not like the Sunlu one (where is the moisture suppose to go?). I am experimenting with regular cheap food dehydrator. Works ok, but there is no fancy LCD menu and all that stuff.
I agree, I bought the sunlu and I immediately added a couple of holes on the top. but the max temperature of sunlu of 55°C is too low.
@@g.s.3389 I think that Sunlu dryer is also intended to be a storage container, hence there are no holes, but for drying it doesn't make sense. My cheap $22 food dehydrator can be set to 70C. I am testing it right now - it dried ASA nicely. Will post a video about it this or next week
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I heard a little bit of popping of the nylon while it was printing. You need to dry the nylon even further if possible.
Very informative thank you!
Lol, I think I have those humidity sensors and they have temp on them too but they covered it up with a sticker or plastic. Besides that it looks like the dryer I'll get. It is November so maybe there will be a sale soon, fingers crossed.
I watch this and look to my left I see the Eibos Cyclope right next to me
I think it would be better if it didn't have the holes at the top and was instead fully closed with a bag of silica gel inside, so you can use it to dry the filament and also to store the filament when it's off.
You could make some plugs and a holder, could be an easy upgrade that may take it over the top on effectiveness. Maybe a good follow up video, no pressure but could be cool.
Best would be changing these two every 5-10 minutes for example. Drying has 2 steps: 1) big heat, force humidity from filament to its surface (here it would be really good not to have holes, but to get higher temp) 2) take the moisutre from the surface, but surrounding air must have low humidity and here these holes (or silica gel) are important
@@MyTechFun thank you, excellent point.
The temperature is what changes the amount of water that the air can hold. Room temperature air at 51% RH seems to become 10% RH at 65C. The holes allow water from the filament to escape, this is the additional source of water, as the water vapour escapes the filament it will add to the RH of the warm air which can be diluted into the surrounding air. I don’t think the holes make a big difference, the air exchange isn’t that much so only a small amount of water vapour is let out, they don’t do any harm. Ideally fresh air is heated and blown over the filament then the air with increased RH is blown out. This would be very wasteful of heat so not a good way to operate. Silica gel works poorly at low RH, best to use it on the cool air where RH is higher, like for storage long term.
@@klave8511 yeah, to get things really dry, 3A molecular sieve is the way to go. It’s harder to recharge than silica gel though, because you have to get it really hot to drive off the adsorbed moisture.
doesnt it need to rotate to dry evenly?
Would the temperature get a little higher if you put some insulation around the sides, or is 67C the point that the temp controller was limiting at? (eg, was the relay cycling on and off at that temperature?)
I tried putting a cheap PID (Inkbird brand) on a toaster-oven to get well-controlled temperatures, but two units in a row didn’t work at all, so I got discouraged. Maybe I need to revisit that project for drying PA, but I like the design and function of the Cyclopes a lot, so am thinking about buying one after watching this video. Great review as always!
Szép munka, jó teszt. Milyen filamenteket (márka) használsz a nyomtatáshoz? Feliratkozás ment :)
Gembird, pla petg tűrhető. Nylon egy katasztrófa.
I cant justify spending over 100 Euro for what is essentially a hot air gun in an enclosure with some PID to toggle ON and OFF... Maybe time for a DIY with a bit larger box to support 2kg-10kg spools? ;)
Time vs money
We get it, you are poor.
@@thecircuitbox rather put that money in a couple extra spools :)
Drying nylon needs 70°C for > 12h....
not only that but just an hour out it can already be so wet that it'll string
Nekem is ilyen van szerintem tök jól működik !
Wonderful Vieo, But i have a question. i have just bought it but there isn't any battery in the hygrometer, does any one knows whats the battery code for that? thank you
A76/LR44 button battery
I think i will try a custom box, with a pair of hairdryer, an arduino, some relay and sensors
Send one to me for a review :-)
Like installing a toilet paper roll, which way is better for pulling the filament or does it not matter?
Smaller angle is better, so depend where is the dryer relative to printer. But in most cases, I use the exit from the side.
Nicest one so far! The price is a bit steep though, I'm sure they could sell this at the $70/80 range most are at now and still be profitable.
It was a Kickstarter, the first models were less than $40.
Getting better, but way too expensive for what is essentially a heater and a fan. You can buy an entire printer for this money.
:) its funny how much i wanted to get this dryer before this review. I was really impressed by it's look (i still do though) and to be honest as it seems like its really do what it was designed for. No doubt. But then i realized i will print mostly with PLA and ABS. Yeah... Maybe with PETG but not that much. Nylon? I don't think so. And that made me think twice... Do i really need a filament dryer?
If you will not print with Nylon, then any cheap dryer will do the job. If you have precise oven, then you can use that to dry filaments, print on open air and after printing store filaments in closed bags with some silica gel (PETG, TPU). For PLA, ABS I use dryer only if they are very old and became too brittle.
Great video; thanks!
I know this is pretty old, but FYI, the coupon code no longer works
This does not dry Nylon.... you need 80-90c.
👍
does it fit 3/5kg spools?
Hey why not compare with food dryer they are very cheap and can go to 70 degree Celsius
I already have one. There will be a video, only I have to finish modification, so I can use it during 3D printing too..
@@MyTechFun i was also thinking of getting a filament dryer but decided to get a food dryer because it's cheaper can hold big spools and heat's up to 70. Anyway looking forward to the new video keep up the great work!
called a Cyclopes (meaning 1 eye) but hold multiple, they should rethink the name.
The 2 belly Cyclops
Nice video, any new discount codes? the 5% off isn't working.
They told me, that it will work again after Christmass discount ends (5 and 10% too)
@@MyTechFun Aww... I was hoping it could be stacked with the Christmas discount. Who doesn't like big discounts in these difficult times?
$129.99 + 21% VAT to EU - it is too expensive
I agree. But don't forget, you can get 10% discount ;-)
@@MyTechFun maximum price for it is €70 including shipment, everything above is just greedy robbery
Hi, The shipping channel we are using is DTD(Door to door) fast trackable flight. The custom tax (and VAT) has been paid from our side for most countries (especially EU countries). However, we are not really certain about the real situation of the custom when the package arrives in the destination country. So we haven't mentioned it on our website but a statement that the import tax and other fees are not included. In fact, we haven't chage our price for VAT (1st July) for EU but cover it by our side (as the package is free shipping.)
@@eibos3d983 Your device is overly expensive even without added VAT, so all of this does not matter at all ;)
@@MyTechFun Hello sir , from where I can get 10 % discount ?