The stops are nothing to do with the stepper motors. I had the same issue, I disconnected all the steppers and the spots where it stops were still there. I adjusted the eccentric adjusters for the guide wheels and it solved it.
Can you not just move the cord so its on top of the frame? It shouldn't sag and touch the work surface then. I have watched a few videos of the P9, and this comes with 4 raising blocks that you use to assemble it. If you use them before tightening the frame up then it 'should' tighten the frame 'square' and shouldn't sag. Or you could just move the head to the end of the arm with it touching the bed before tightening and that should also make it square.
The cord isn't quite long enough to go over the frame, it will make the machine bind when it extends all the way. This one came with the 4 raising blocks as well, I used them to assemble the laser per the instructions. I think its just going to sag regardless. The beat thing to do if you're doing a larger piece is set the focus with the diode all the way out on the arm. Worst case its a tiny bit high when its closest to the frame, but it didn't seem to make a difference in my testing.
@@ReeseCustoms I received mine yesterday and set it up (still a lot to learn). The cord to to the laser i placed over the laser arm (X axis), not the main frame arm itself (Y axis). This clears it away from the laser head where it touches the work surface, and there is no way it will interfere at all. So rather than going from the socket, under the arm then up to the head socket, go from the socket straight over the arm (hope that makes sense). I will try and do a video to explain it and show it working on my UA-cam channel if it will help.
No problem. I don't mind reviewing products when they send them to me. I'm very transparent and want other people to k ow the truth about things, whether they are good or bad.
The stops are nothing to do with the stepper motors. I had the same issue, I disconnected all the steppers and the spots where it stops were still there. I adjusted the eccentric adjusters for the guide wheels and it solved it.
Great review, thanks.
No problem. I enjoy doing them.
can we use rollers for this?
Great honest review. I've been looking at the Atomstack engravers, I wonder how well they handle kydex
I doubt it would cut it at all, but just etching/engraving, it shouldn't be too bad. I can try some and see
@@ReeseCustoms Thanks. It was more for engraving my logo on the back of the product
That cable that is bothering you, should be routed out the back and over the top. It's long enough to reach. Try It.
Wow that's neat thanks for all the different things tested on
No problem, thanks for watching
4:00 no... 200x200 its because mm its the world standard for these kind of machines and tools... any other unit is for newbs.
Can you not just move the cord so its on top of the frame? It shouldn't sag and touch the work surface then.
I have watched a few videos of the P9, and this comes with 4 raising blocks that you use to assemble it. If you use them before tightening the frame up then it 'should' tighten the frame 'square' and shouldn't sag. Or you could just move the head to the end of the arm with it touching the bed before tightening and that should also make it square.
The cord isn't quite long enough to go over the frame, it will make the machine bind when it extends all the way.
This one came with the 4 raising blocks as well, I used them to assemble the laser per the instructions. I think its just going to sag regardless. The beat thing to do if you're doing a larger piece is set the focus with the diode all the way out on the arm. Worst case its a tiny bit high when its closest to the frame, but it didn't seem to make a difference in my testing.
@@ReeseCustoms I received mine yesterday and set it up (still a lot to learn).
The cord to to the laser i placed over the laser arm (X axis), not the main frame arm itself (Y axis). This clears it away from the laser head where it touches the work surface, and there is no way it will interfere at all.
So rather than going from the socket, under the arm then up to the head socket, go from the socket straight over the arm (hope that makes sense).
I will try and do a video to explain it and show it working on my UA-cam channel if it will help.
Thx for review!
No problem. I don't mind reviewing products when they send them to me. I'm very transparent and want other people to k ow the truth about things, whether they are good or bad.
Thanks for the info
No problem!
And did you test a lasepecker 2 engraver?
I have not tested one of those, but if they sent me one, I'd definitely put it through its paces
How will it do on high carbon steel? Looking to do makers marks on 10series blades
I don't think you could use it for that, I don't think it's strong enough.
@@ReeseCustoms thanks man
no protective glasses?
As long as you keep the guard down, you don't really need them.
hola necesito ayuda con mi comfiguration grbl
I don't know much about it but I'll help however I can.
Very nice!
Yes, it was surprisingly nice
@@ReeseCustoms would be perfect for craft shows to engrave on the spot