Nylon I can do on my 5M Pro. I klipper modded it so I just have it pre-heat for about 5 to 10 minutes and set air circulation to internal. The time with the 110 heat bed was enough to get the full chamber to a consistent temperature so it wouldn't warp as it went past the first 10 or so layers. Nylons you have to have a consistent, even, and high chamber temp for the entire print across the entire volume. The reason you get failure after 10 to 20 layers is the temperature at top layer drops as the heat bed moves further from the printing layer. This temp gradient causes the slow warp. recirculating the air makes a nice convection current that helps even that temperature gradient down to help it be more consistent. You can get a similar result with the X1C with a back plate mod to help seal it up more and something like a bento box to move the air around.
You always make relavent videos that I like, including your sponsor, meta as I love VR along with 3d printing. Don't tell me you are also into pinball, my 3rd love :) I just got a sad email about a delay on shipping the AD5X, damn
I print trimmer line nylon, best bang for the buck for durability and strength. Maxpower is the brand I like. I print on a scuffed up carbon fiber sheet due to how much nylon tends to warp. Gluestick and eleene gel glue works good for bed adhesion. My print settings make for printing nylon a slow process, have to fine tune all the settings, which I use ideamaker for. 285c print temp. Trimmer line nylon is smelly, make sure you have ventilation. Nylon prints can be lightweight and stronger than any other type of filament.
My 2025 proposition is printing advanced materials like PP, PC or PA. I feel like I'll leave PA for last though (I don't even have a dehydrator rn), I think I'm gonna start with pp. :)
The sunlu s4 is okay if you get a good one. Mine has a thermistor error and won't dry longer than 13 minutes without giving me a err1 a thermistor error message. Sunlu was absolutely no help with this issue At all. I now have a $150 paper weight that's taking up shelf space.
I printed directly from a filament dryer, so I didn't have to worry so much about humidity. But I'd imagine leaving nylon out on a humid day would make it soak up moisture pretty quickly.
i really don´t get, you are not increasing the strength of the part by putting CF in it, glass fillings either fibers or spheres would have been way cheaper making the material more accessible and just as good. I guess it´s the usual marketing BS. See the common person doesn´t know much about all those materials etc, but they know carbon fiber is awesome as heck, that´s why they are duped with those overly expensive and frankly unnecessary materials. BTW warping heavily depends of geometry as well. Read up on design for injection molding parts, rib thickness and such to understand how and why. Oh don´t forget inhaling any of those fibers is not a good idea....
Nylon I can do on my 5M Pro. I klipper modded it so I just have it pre-heat for about 5 to 10 minutes and set air circulation to internal. The time with the 110 heat bed was enough to get the full chamber to a consistent temperature so it wouldn't warp as it went past the first 10 or so layers.
Nylons you have to have a consistent, even, and high chamber temp for the entire print across the entire volume. The reason you get failure after 10 to 20 layers is the temperature at top layer drops as the heat bed moves further from the printing layer. This temp gradient causes the slow warp. recirculating the air makes a nice convection current that helps even that temperature gradient down to help it be more consistent. You can get a similar result with the X1C with a back plate mod to help seal it up more and something like a bento box to move the air around.
My preferred Figure Feedback Channel 😂
Молодцом! Great guitar!
You always make relavent videos that I like, including your sponsor, meta as I love VR along with 3d printing. Don't tell me you are also into pinball, my 3rd love :) I just got a sad email about a delay on shipping the AD5X, damn
I like pinball, but I'm no good at it. Much like bowling.
I print trimmer line nylon, best bang for the buck for durability and strength. Maxpower is the brand I like. I print on a scuffed up carbon fiber sheet due to how much nylon tends to warp. Gluestick and eleene gel glue works good for bed adhesion. My print settings make for printing nylon a slow process, have to fine tune all the settings, which I use ideamaker for. 285c print temp. Trimmer line nylon is smelly, make sure you have ventilation. Nylon prints can be lightweight and stronger than any other type of filament.
"friggin nylon" about sums up my experience with nylon.
If I sold nylon filament, I would totally name it that.
My 2025 proposition is printing advanced materials like PP, PC or PA. I feel like I'll leave PA for last though (I don't even have a dehydrator rn), I think I'm gonna start with pp. :)
I think used the hand warmer which heat 55 degree inside of the chamber it will help ?
Hi! Did you try pp gf-30 on 5m pro? 0.6 nozzle recommended. Which adhesive we have to choose?
I haven't tried that kind of filament. I still have the liquid adhesive that came with the 5M Pro, so I used that.
The sunlu s4 is okay if you get a good one. Mine has a thermistor error and won't dry longer than 13 minutes without giving me a err1 a thermistor error message. Sunlu was absolutely no help with this issue At all. I now have a $150 paper weight that's taking up shelf space.
Check the humidity in the present day when printing with nylon. Do not print in a rainy day?
I printed directly from a filament dryer, so I didn't have to worry so much about humidity. But I'd imagine leaving nylon out on a humid day would make it soak up moisture pretty quickly.
PRS standard?)
It's a PRS SE Custom 24.
Don’t scuff up your guitar on that carbon fiber!
Good point. It's doing alright so far. I would prefer the smooth nylon for this case (if I can get it to print fully).
i really don´t get, you are not increasing the strength of the part by putting CF in it, glass fillings either fibers or spheres would have been way cheaper making the material more accessible and just as good. I guess it´s the usual marketing BS. See the common person doesn´t know much about all those materials etc, but they know carbon fiber is awesome as heck, that´s why they are duped with those overly expensive and frankly unnecessary materials.
BTW warping heavily depends of geometry as well. Read up on design for injection molding parts, rib thickness and such to understand how and why.
Oh don´t forget inhaling any of those fibers is not a good idea....