great videos! i have learned so much about my volvo from you thank you very much! i have watched a lot ,a whole lot of videos on water pump cam seals oil seals and timing belt and from all of those videos from all of those various methods and steps ,its like this ...paint mark every part and the exact place that each part bolts onto the motor or spins around in each place it spins on the motor.The belt, gears, pulleys ,shafts,EVERYTHING .mark every piece that you are going to take off before you take it off and when you put each part back on be sure all those parts match back up exactly. there are several methods to successfully removing the parts but which ever method you choose match up your marks exactly to the position the part was in before you started you will not fail.of course you should be very mechanically inclined and have the tools and paint as well ...if you are not you should for sure watch as many videos as possible and follow steps to a T. that worked great in my case for my volvo xc70 2.5T anyway.
Your simplistic approach to over complicated repairs is TESTAMENT to your personal ability,,, THANK YOU & THANK YOU FOR THIS OPPORTUNITY TO LEARN FROM YOUR CHANNEL, 🎉🎉🎉🎉❤
One of the greatest ideas ever is your use of an empty gallon container to hold the bolts and parts as you take them off. You should demonstrate that idea in all your videos because it is useful for everything that people repair. A genius idea because it is so simple.
My beloved Vo's oil light came on..... Oil just dumping out, i could tell the intake cam seal was out, but was worried i had other seals out too because how much oil i was losing. Nope that cured it! Thx for the video! I watched it twice the day before the seal came in! Back on the road. No leaks!
You're so welcome Sam! I would replace failed seal, filled up the engine oil then check actual engine with the gauge at the oil sensor (cold start, hot start, idle and 1.5-2.0K rpm) make sure your engine didn't have oil starvation causing any dame.
Nice job at explaining this... I got quoted $700 USD to replace the seal; well, I think I'll do it myself on my 2005 Volvo XC90... just need to find the right time, as I'm truly busy and it's hoooooottttt in Phoenix, Arizona. I truly appreciate folks like you sharing the knowledge. When you go to the grave, which we all will, we know that our knowledge is NOT going to be lost. Thank you thank you!!!!
My pleasure brotha! I am so glad this simple video can help you out. I have been driving this Volvo everyday since I fixed oil cam seal leak. After pricing cost of the repair (just to get a digits) at the dealer and local shop - Nope, too much! I went to local Volvo dealer bought couple seals, that was it. Then filmed a video). You are right, knowledge is greatest asset, which lives forever. Greetings from British Columbia, Canada! Let me know if you have any questions. BZW, thanks for your feedback and watching this video. Cheers RMP!
Thank you so much for this! I have put 10 qts of oil in my '01 V70XC in the last two days, while I tried to figure out where the leak was coming from. Once I found the splatter all inside my front/right wheel, I knew this was the video for me! I have confirmed the intake camshaft seal is a wobbly, loose bit, and this video just saved me a boatload of Volvo dealership debt! You rock a bunch!
@@PistonShack the oil leak is better, but not gone =\ The original seal hardened and carved a groove in the camshaft, maybe? Still minor(ish) leaking around it. But I think I'm going to put her up for a bit and throw some time and parts at the list of issues she has, so I can drive with confidence again. 2001 was kind of a bad year for V70 transmissions and throttle management modules, and these poor engine mounts (all of them) have seen better days...
Excellent video. I have a small oil leak coming from top passenger side on my V70. I can see oil in the timing belt area. I will check to see if it is coming from the seal and if it does I will follow your instructions. I am on my third Volvo now, had 240, 740 and now V70. I will drive Volvos for the rest of my life, love them.
this may sound crazy, but it worked for me. When this just happened to me 4 months ago, i was about gonna give up on a 260k volvo s70. Exactly as you see in this video was what it was. I had already looked [desperately, as the leak was too bad] into oil sealants you add to oil. When i finally found what he shows here in this video, i had a long shot idea. I simply pushed the cam seal back in with a stubby screwdriver, working around it from opposite sides, so as to try to get it seated evenly. [this thru the holes you see in the 'sprocket'.] I didn't push hard, just gently. Crosshatch, like wheel lug nuts. When i had the damn cam seal what i considered 'seated' in its recess, i bought some blue devil 'rear main sealer', and using a small paint brush [which i broke the handle off to make 'stubby'], i painted the blue devil product directly onto the cam seal itself. [this while it was snowing, in a parking lot!] I then bicycled home and came back next day, -leaving some ten hours of 'curing' time. [this ain't something 'blue devil' recommends!] i then followed the 'blue devil' company's directions, [i think], simply pouring the bottle of 'rear main sealer' into the engine's oil crankcase and running the engine at idle for two hours. Despite some apprehension at starting it, the seal held! After the two hours of the motor idling, i GINGERLY drove the car home, and idled it some wherever i gingerly drove it for a few days. I BABIED IT! within two weeks i drove it normally. Easy, but normal. A month later, i got on it here and there, -and I still do now! Too soon to say for sure, but i think it's a permanent fix!! May god show this to another who needs it to keep his 'beater' going, -volvo or no! some points: blue devil also makes 'oil stop leak', which i think is same formula, but more [fluid and money]. Think i paid $16ish for 'main sealer'. Blue devil's probably 'the best', though other brands are out there. The stuff expands gaskets and seals somehow. This stuff obviously made my 'loosey' cam seal expand enough to snug it firmly in place. i should note that in this video, the seal seems different than mine was. It seems like if you were to start pushing it into its recess with something, it wouldn't have had as much resistance as mine did. But i can't be sure from a video... Even if it IS looser, you could duct tape a matching cylindrical object over it, or in some way hold it in. If you can get it to stay in after painting the 'stop leak' on it and adding it to motor oil, it could still expand it to hold. But if the cam seal pushes in snugly, so much the better. My exhaust cam [rear] is a VVVT cam, with that kind of bell shaped pulley. It has no holes in it, as the 'sprocket' in this video does, to place a stubby screwdriver through! Thus, alas, you can't fix it this way. [at least i can't see how.] i think if my rear cam seal woulda blown, i'd a said goodbye to my baby, -cause doing this job 'right' ain't no walk in the park. And i do wrench some... i also was warned that the pcv system likely caused this failure, and that i had to fix it or more trouble. But i did the dipstick test and the rubber glove test, [thanks robertDIY!], and they both passed. I think the seal just got old and i drove her too hard that night. I lost 3 qts of oil in ten miles b4 i finally stopped. I should change timing belt, [soaked in oil!], but won't, -as it was just changed! Just washed her down good with brake cleaner. [should give it a second wash soon again.] since this doesn't seem a pcv issue, i would definitely recommend using 'high mileage' motor oil in your old car/ truck. Definitely these volvos! cheap insurance! It's similar to the blue devil stuff, but likely much less concentration. You could even add the blue devil stuff, maybe 1/3 of a bottle every other oil change. Mite be better. Blue devil raised my oil pressure a lot. At least 1/4! [i got a gauge.] Don't kno why. But no harm i guess, and by golly, it saved my car! It may drop down when i change oil. There have been no side effects from this blue devil oil sealer, as there can be with 'sealers', generally. I've heard of them gunking up things, esp. coolant sealers. it is possible that the cold weather may have [barely] helped my cam seal 'seat'. If it's summer, maybe you'd put ice [or freon?] in cam seal area... Just an idea. Who knows? I originally left this comment on another video elsewhere. The repair has never failed since, after nearly a year! In fact, I just put some 3000 turnpike miles on car in this last month, with a lots of high speed hammering on her! Was over 100 mph 3x! No prob. This "miracle" fix is a solid as a rock.
Hi Gina! Thanks a lot for sharing with all of us your experience. I believe it might help someone. I avoid using "Stop Leak" additives if I can replace the seal because it might have side effects later but they work sometimes.
Hi from New Zealand, I had my 2002 Volvo V70 XC lose all its oil at the carpark yesterday afternoon leaving a pool of oil, I had no idea what the cause was but after watching your videos, I now have a good feeling that it is the camshaft seal. The car is going to the mechanic next week (I will clean the car park). I have shared your excellent videos with the mechanic, a great guy. I will let you know if it is the camshaft seal or something else. I have always owned a Volvo, 240, 245, 260, 265 and the magnificent 740 GLE and the powerful 760 GLE. The Volvo name comes from the infinitive of the Latin verb "volvere (to roll)" and it was conjugated into Volvo, which means "I roll." Keep them rolling. Thank you again.
This is a very pleasant video to watch. Getting ready to replace the timing belts on my 95 and 97 Volvo 850s with over 250,000 miles. The kits come with new camshaft seals, so I wanted to see how to do this without cam locking tool, if possible. I was a little surprised you opted not to replace the exhaust cam seal while you were in there since it is so old.
Hey Alan! I didn't do it because first exhaust seal has different design, seats firmly compare to the intake cam seal and second seal didn't leak. I might replace it @350K with timing belt service. Yeah, let me know how is your repair, also if you have any questions. Cheers brotha!
@@PistonShack I usually follow the adage "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." One exception has often been with engine seals, where I tend to err of the side of caution and replace them if I'm in the area. Perhaps it has to do with the vehicles I've owned in the past, which included several Chrysler, BMW, and Mercedes products, which liked to bleed oil from everywhere. I popped the cover off my '95 and looked at the seals. They're both dry as a bone, and since they aren't particularly difficult to get to, I've decided I won't fix what isn't broken. The '97 is a different story. Both are leaking, so they will get replaced. Since these have the older engine design, I think they have the same seals and gears for intake and exhaust. Never thought I'd love a Volvo until I fell into owning one. They are amazing machines.
@@aboyd1988 !00% brotha - don't fix it if it ain't broke! Thanks for sharing your experience. Well, I will replace rear main engine seal if it wasn't ever replaced) When I do clutch on my new project vehicles seals go as well! I like Volvo for their safety, performance, engineering and reliability! Volvo cars have character and personality) Indeed.
PERFECT VIDEO, this video saved me so much my car has the exact same problem and i am getting the seal in and should be back on the road in a few days, thanks for the help!
Great video! Especially the tensioner adjustment. In addition to counting the teeth, I like to also mark the belt with the paint, another point of reference.
So true brotha, so true. I hope it will help someone to save Volvo from going to the crusher. I saw on Craigs a few Volvo with an issue like this for an only a couple hundred $$. More Volvo vids are coming up. Thanks for watching.
You're very welcome brotha! Yeah, I tried my best to make this video simple and easy to follow as possible straight to the point. I guess it will help to save some money! Let me know fi you have any questions. Cheers Amjad.
Thank you for posting this video! We are experiencing this issue with our 2001 V70 and will be using this video as a reference to replace the seal. We love our Volvo! :)
Great video.. was able to change out my camshaft seal no problem. thank you so much. Messed up on way out and over torqued one sprocket bolt so now I’m in the process of drilling it out. Lol but regardless this video helped save my old Volvo s60 to keep it going. Thank you!!
I know this is an older video....but Either my cam seal or exhaust seal is bad. (2002 Volvo S60 2.4T) This video gives me the confidence to tackle this issue. Thank you sir! By the way, your english is awesome, great job! Youre talking like a regular person and not some "mechanical engineer". Im subscribing and will follow all you do.
Hey John! Thanks for your feedback. Just saw your comment showed up. I have never seen exhaust seal failing the same way. Let me know if you have any questions. Cheers!
Hey Mario. Well, that's up to you. I just shown how it can be done without any specialty tools. If you feel more comfortable using cam-locking tool, I would suggest to use it. Let me know how is your repair. Cheers!
Great tutorial and makes it look easy..I gather the timing marks are pretty self-explanatory on the cam and the cover? Fabtastic please Keep the videos coming you didn’t mention much about the crankshaft sprocket and the timing down there..i suppose if top cam timing right impossible to get the timing wrong on the crank..? Eternal Gratitude Ed
Good morning Edwin! Thank for watching Edwin) You don't need to worry about marks on crankshaft sprocket. We only have to set the first cylinder in top dead centre (TDC). Otherwise we need to remove harmonic balance pulley to get down to the crank marks, which is totally unnecessary in our application. When two marks at exhaust and intake sprockets alight with a timing cover, that will automatically set crank in proper position (if timing belt is in place). You can also remove first cylinder spark plug to verify 1st piston TDC position. Take care brotha!
I did this work exactly how you said. I wrote down every single step. I counted the teeth before I took the belt off. However when I put everything back together, I counted one less tooth. Everything lined up but one tooth less. Cranked the main shaft again to double check. Everything lined up but one tooth less. I knocked on some wood then turned the ignition and the car started. It idled better than before so it must have gotten out of time when it busted the seal. I swear even though there were a few mishaps in my part, I finished within 2hours. Awesome knowledge you are passing along. Thank you. I appreciate what you do.
Very helpful video. The exact same cam seal come loose in my 2002 s60 it has 165000 miles on the clock. Everything is on order. Need to do it this weekend. Wish me luck :D
Finally some practical intelligence.... thanks for this video.... Have 05 xc90 2.5T 113K... I have the VVT so am not sure if this will apply because there are no marks on sprockets..... and I wish you'd show how to put the timing cover back on... took me over an hour, couldn't get the tabs in.
Gracias Gino! I am glad it helped you out to get your Volvo get back on a road. VVT and non VVT both sprockets have marks, I marked VVT camshaft exhaust sprocket in my video. There's so differences to remove VVT sprocket (how to take plug, main bolt and hold shaft in place). Later I will make a video for VVT seal as well. In one of the comment earlier I explained how to replace seal on VVT side. Cheers Brotha and thanks for watching.
… the timing marks on xc90’s are “ FAINT “ to say the least …. But they are there… tiny TINY little lines(outside of cam gears) marks on “inside” of cam gears ⚙️ are not timing marks WARNING..
Nice video and well explained. Just started to see this leak on my 09 c30 t5 so will need to do this myself to save $1000-$1500 that shops will charge to do this. Will probably replace the pvc breather box as well cause I replaced the diaphram a while ago and problem is still there.
Excellent video! Saved me mucho$ negating the Volvo special tools and your demonstration on setting tension / timing was far superior to the Haynes Manual.
This was a very good helpful video with one exception that i think might be rather important. This is why i comment the Video. The wheel that was disembeled was locked into position at once without letting the evetual tension on the belt get lost. So this is the way i whould do. 1. Put the cambelt on as showed in this video. 2. When cambelt is on loosen the 3 screws around the weel You dissasembeled before. (Just losen it a bit so all tension that might be there if You missed ever so slight will be lost.) During this process i have seen in other videos that the tension on the "tensioner" is put in max position. ( Like 50 degrees position) 3. Now we have secured that there is zero tension between the 3 wheels involved since only one wheel is dissembled and the other 2 wheels presumed to be ok in factory settings. This is a very critical procedure i think. Please comment if You think i might be wrong. NOW we tension the bolts at the right amount of Nm to the wheel. 4. Now You finally correct the tensioner to the right position. If 20 degrees surronding temperature in the mittle position. Fasten the screw to the tensioner mittle position and were done.
Hey Peter! Thanks you for your detailed explanation. There's few ways to do it. I have done it based on my experience and referring to Haynes manual. Never had any issues ever since. Volvo runs like clock. I would try the way you described next time doing the timing belt. Thanks)
After 14 months finally had the balls to try this and I just want to thank you again my friend. Added New Oil, antifreeze, fuel and a new battery and turned the key and it's sounds smooth to me. There is.a faint squel which I think may be the oil when it sprayed all over may have came on the belts. I wanted to ask you something is it okay for a week or so to drive without the timing belt Cover ? Just to make sure things are good ? Will a rainy day be a problem without that cover ? Again God bless you for this video I really appreciate it.
Hey Amer! Such a great news! I remember we were chatting down in a comments last year. I will avoid getting any dirt and water on timing belt components. If everything set right, no leaks after running for few minutes, I personally won't worry about it. Might be later a bit tale upper cover off to check for any possible issues. God bless you brother!
Hey Don! Thanks for your feedback - Appreciated! Unfortunately, I don't have timing belt replacement video but I will make one) Yeah, let me know if you have any questions. What Volvo do you have?
Helpful hint: use sandpaper to take the sharp edge off The bore that the seal goes into so you don’t shave the rubber right off of the outside of the seal. Also, you can fabricate a disk with three holes in it and a large center hole and you can use the three bolts that hold the cam sprocket on to press the seal and evenly and consistently instead of using a hammer.
If u have the vvt system i highly recommend you get the cam locking tool and install it, if you remove the pullys you have to do a procedure to set timing to factor spect you loosen the center bolt and remove the center cap loosen the 3 8mm bolts around pully as well before doing all of this tho before you remove anything make sure your lines are all in place on top dead center and install the cam holder once u do that then you remove the cap loosen center t55 bolts and 8mm bolts then tight the center bolt just a bit turn pullys counter clockwise make sure the 3 center bolts are all the way counterclockwise then loosen center bolt again and turn pullys clock wise pully and vvt system clockwise then exhaust cam you turn 1 tooth b4 timing and the other one you turn 1 1/2 tooths b4 timing then u tight center bolt to 120nm then after you tighten it you set pullys to timing then put belt make sure all 3 lines match up turn engine backwards just a bit then turn in clockwise again set it on timing and if all lines match up then u tighten the center cap and hold the pressure on the ratchet and while your doing that you tighten the 3 8mm bolts on each pully as well and then you remove your cam holder tool turn engine 2 times make sure lines match up and your set put it back together and your good to go its a long process but it wont work any other way if u remove pullys to change seals
Hey BayismGameplay510! Thank you so much for detailed advice, you described everything everyone needs to know. I would pin your comment, make sure other viewers can read it as well. Cheers!
Thank you, im a volvo fan and need replace just what you showed in video on my 2001 s60. I also have - 98 v70 and my son have two v70's. One mk1 and one mk2.
@@EspenMathisenViking Most likely it related electrical wiring (harness) or one of the inputs (sensors, switches ect.) to ECU starts acting up when vehicle warms up. Do visual inspection, check for any wiring contacts, check spark should jump out (good coil/plug spark will jump 2-2.5 cm). Also try to do simple things first, swap coils, do contribution test to find which cylinder dead ect. When last time did you change plugs, coils. Also check fuel pump pressure at idle and 2000 rpm itt also could be weak worn out fuel pump as well. Is it permanent or intermittent issue?
Very nice vid. Thank you. Would have been good to see you remove a replace VVT actuator sprocket to see if the actuator creates any issues/challenges extra to the non-actuator sprocket. One question: when you are replacing the sprocket - so long at the cam has not moved at all - surely it doesnt matter how you put the sprocket back on?? Yes?
Have you tried this on the vvt? I think in addition to the crank lock method you are doing I will clamp the sprocket on the vvt to the belt to keep that cam from moving when you break that 90 ft lb torx inner bolt!
I was just curious why you didn't discuss what might have cause the seal to blow? Did you check your oil ventilation system and determine it wasn't plugged?
I am do the same thing I was curious why you did not replace the second cam seal on the back pulley? Wouldn't they both be dry and brittle by now? Including the crank seal at the bottom
Hi I have the exact same issue... I went out stuck the screwdriver behind the gear and there it was! saved me a bunch of diagnosis time. I have same set up no vvt on intake... just curious while you were there you didnt replace the other seal seems inevitable that it will go too...
Greetings brotha! No I did only one seal for now. I might do the rest with next timing belt work I am glad this vid came handy) Let me know how is your repair. Cheers!
Hi, I wanted to thank you for this video. I am looking into a 2003 volvo s60 and I have never owned a Volvo, nor do I know anything about them. What should I look out for, other than this massive oil leak issue? Thank you so much, again. I look forward to watching more of your videos.
Glad I could help! Thanks a lot for watching, your feedback. I would say: if you found decent Volvo car bring it to the local Volvo garage for an inspection prior the purchase. I would check body, make sure vehicle wasn't in any major accident. ASIN transmission is very sensitive to ATF quality, if fluid wasn't change - most likely gearbox will go out first. Check for blow by, when you take oil filler cap off, should have vacuum. Check if previous owner has prove of all maintenance and repair records. The best advice to take a car to mechanic you trust.
I replaced both front cam seals of a S70 year 99, locked the cams at the back beforehand. Put the vvt hub back in the previously marked resting position and spring loaded at the time of belt installation. When I test rotate the engine manually ,there is a spot where the sprocket timing marks align with the top cover I have to have a bigger force to move through and the tensioner roller arm swings to the right and a half circle later swings to the left showing less tension. Is there a conflict in the system which can be fatal if motor being turned on. Thanks if you could answer this and for this clear descriptive video you've posted.
Piston Shack, thank you for this video. I am trying to do the same but it seems the cam shaft turned slightly when I removed the bolts from the pulley. How do I get the shaft realigned with the original position?
Glad it helped Ed! I would put sprocket back turn the cam shaft to align sprocket mark with mark on upper cover, then take bolts off without moving the sprocket.
Hey nice video,, except that music .. Your engine PCV system is getting plugged and crankcase pressure becomes the force that pushes seals out under boost. Your exhaust cam or rear main seal will likely get pushed out next and you definitely need locking tool to torque 80 ft/lbs center bolt on exhaust cam sprocket. Keep up good work.
You are very welcome Rich! Thanks for watching it. I would like to add a few words to your comment. PCV system had and has a good vacuum. Over pressurized PCV system will push oil through the seal but 99% won't push the seal out. The seal was old and dry which couldn't sit at high RPM. There way to replace exhaust camshaft seal. I should film exhaust seal replacement later. How to do the repair without specialty tools. You just need old timing belt couple pairs of vise grip pliers, 3/8 or 1/2'' power ratchet and few sockets. There is a way to torque 80 ft/lbs center bolt-on exhaust cam sprocket. The music clip became so load after all. I set music to 1% and voice recording up to 100% but after I uploaded the video to UA-cam background music turned a bit loud. The exhaust seal (HomeStyleRepair) is coming later with timing belt replacement. Cheers!
Thank you for sharing this!! Yesterday my 06 S40 engine just shutoff while driving. The engine will turn when attempting to start but it won’t start. I check the T-belt and it looks good. However, when trying to start the engine, it does sound as if I had removed all spark plugs and then tried to start the engine. It sounds es as if it didn’t have any compression. What could this be?
Hey Traxxi2003! Most likely you don't have fuel pressure. Did it died slowly on you or just shutt offf right away. Check this video, it happened to me last year - car died on me: VOLVO CRANK NO START - FUEL ISSUE | TROUBLESHOOTING & REPAIR. ua-cam.com/video/EKfR6s9fp0I/v-deo.html Let me if you have any questions.
@@PistonShack , it shutoff right away. On mine it was the a/c compressor belt that came apart, somehow parts of the belt got into the crankshaft timing belt sprocket and the motor jumped timing. I have no compression
What if the exhaust cam is leaking... would locking it with the 30mm still work, I understand some may spring loaded etc. but in terms of needing the cam lock, is it a necessity for the exhaust side?
Hey Dan. It's difficult to tell for sure without see the vehicle. I would wipe/clean all oil then just check after day-two days driving to locate the leak. Any luck finding the leak?
Good film, Question from me, Last week the exhaust camshaft wheel from my XC70 "2002 2.4t came lose from the camshaft while driving. no timing no starting. Do you think it needs a new engine?
@@PistonShack Nope, its still attatched but came appro 5/6 millimeters of. Distribution belt is still in place. Only te camshaft is not turning. Oilseal is pushed out and leaking. Before i bought it, there was a another engine placed. maybe the forgot to fasten the exhaust sprocket.
@@robstelten6658 Hey Robe. I would get cam looking tool online and reassemble everything replacing seal and might be exhaust vvt sprocket if it damaged.
Hello I have a 2.5 turbo and I have to drive it cross country it does have this oil leak where I see it leaking on the subframe from the cam seals. I cannot afford to fix it and my timing belt doesn't look like it's wet do you think I could drive it for a little bit before I get the repair? Everyone talks about the timing about being wet I looked at my timing belt it's not wet but it still does leak oil down on the subframe maybe about a half a quart every 4,000 miles so a very slowly but it still leaks nonetheless.
Timing belt was replaces as well as camshaft seal was replaces on my volvo S60. After the repair car turned on run 200miles parked in my driveway and won't turn back on...hoping it's just a tension easy fix...what do you recommend
Hey Gelamish! Sounds it doesn't crank at all - Crank No Click No Start or it Clicks? I would start with basics. Check it power present on commant wire at the solenoid when you crank. Next try to turn engine over with a ratchet. Do you have any DTC related data or codes preset. Let me know I will get back soon as I can. Cheers!
@@PistonShack thank you for your attention.. wen I turn the key it's sound realy Close to starting like if it was out off gas..10 codes come up more than one are missfire.
Ill have a chance again by the end of this week to recheck the timing marks. i will turn one full turn by hand the bottom ⚙️ and see if after the drive the timing moved. Hope I go go from there to rule out the problem
@@gelamich I will verify that for sure. Please remember if timing belt fail or goes off too far it could damage the engine. All Volvo engines are interference. Can you also share all DTC codes you have. Cheers!
Guys, minute 8:07 you can see as exhaust polley rotate anticlockwise itself at least one tooth when you dissamble the belt. I had problems with it when I reinstall the belt. I did not realize this and I thought that as i had not touch anything when all was dissambled the polley was in correct position but was not. I respected all marks and position and when i reinstalled and I switch on a noise come from the engine, i have the vvt polley one tooth backward. Caution guys with VVT system, It has a life of its own.
Hey Mario! Well, I managed to replace intake cam seal sprocket without using locking tool but if you feel more comfortable using locking tool, specially if you need to work on VVT ones.
None, no any oil leaks or blown seals. Btw, entire pcv system was recently serviced. Old seal dried out and came lose out. Do you have the same issue on your Volvo?
I am at 324K right now, she runs like a new! Non VVT is pretty easy but VVT is doable as well. Next spring I'm planning to replace timing belt kit plus VVT exhaust seal as well. New Video: Volvo VVT Camshaft Seal Repl. No Locking Tool is Coming! What Volvo do you drive? BZW, thanks for watching and subscribing for more! Cheers.
@@PistonShack ouch. Hopefully it's easy like an intake pipe popped off, and not a mess like I had a while back. If you have it, definitely hook Vida/Dice unit up and see what the car says happened.
@@CaptainSeamus I checked pipes and basic troubleshooting on-site for crank no start issue. Sounds like a turbocharger or ECU etc. I have Vida Dice as well! I will let know! Cheers!
removing the timing belt from the cam sprocket only and strapping the belt up so the other sprockets cant move ... is that correct ,or am i missing something?if so can i repeat process for the exhaust cam sprocket?
You are so welcome brother! It should be fine. Just count number of teeth to make sure your belt isn't off. I have been driving since no any issues at all.
@@Subtropicalsband Nope, I won't worry about exhaust VVT sprocket. If everything checked out how I shown it should be good to good. I put 10K km after I did my repair - runs like clock.
Hi, i am rebuilding the head on my 2.4i S40 and lost the position on the exhaust cam sprocket, do you know if these come marked ? Its the non vvti sprocket
I will start this process tomorrow. However, I started today but could not find the mark for the timing on the main crankshaft below. If I line up both top timing marks, will that work. I cannot make out the bottom mark.
Do you have to take off the valve cover or anything else besides the timing belt cover? Im still trying to find the leak on my engine but its in that general area . Im not that mechanically inclined and just trying to figure out how much i could remove without having the tools to torque anything back to original spec. Just trying to find this damn leak 😅
Seal came out on it own while I was driving. If you interesting how to replace seal I have great video on my channel, check it out: HOW TO REMOVE & INSTALL ANY SEAL on your CAR PROPERLY. EASY TIPS & TRICKS ua-cam.com/video/-DyynHkRtJ0/v-deo.html Thanks!
I just used rubber bungle cord to keep belt up on crankshaft pulley. After you removed timing belt from intake sprocket, you have nothing to do with exhaust cam. I will make another video later, how to replace exhaust cam seal without holder tool. Cheers James!
my 06 volvo xc70 2.5t developed a slight coolant leak about 20000 miles ago that has progressed gradually since.it also developed an oil leak started about the same of time and rate of progression .for the past month have been adding a quart of oil and about a pint of coolant every sunday. the (low coolant stop safely)message appears every time the coolant drops below the min line on res.tank and i always stop and add the little bit, less than a pint to the tank putting it back up in between the min/max lines.it has never gotten the least bit hot or made the needle move from just below top dead center on the gauge and the low oil pressure message or oil light ever come on .Today however i was less than 1 mile from home when the low coolant message came on which is normal by the end of the week and the oil light came on for the 1st time ever and by the time i turned in my driveway no oil pressure turn off engine message came across the message board i immediately turned off the car and coasted into my drive.i got out and popped the hood there was quite a bit of oil and coolant dripping from everywhere on that side of the engine compartment what would most likely cause that to happen the same day? camshaft seal and waterpump ??? there is no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil
I would top up coolant and oil, remove plastic covers from the engine, wipe spilled fluids best as possible then start the engine trying to locate the leaks. I just had coolant leaking from the water pump on my Volvo last month. Low Coolant message came on. Ended up replacing leaky pump. Let me know how is you repair. Sorry for the late reply.
@@PistonShack water pump with a problem still trying to figure out what made all the oil end up on the ground I just ordered a water pump timing belt cam seal kit she's got 250,000 miles on her so figured why not go ahead and do that too while I'm in there you have any tricks for tips please let me know if I parked will be here on the 31st
Greetings! Yes, you right. Exhaust side sprocket hex screw torqued up to 80 ft.lb. I am going to replace my timing belt kit this spring. There's the way to get exhaust done. I briefly explained it in previous comments but video will make everything easy! I will make a video as well. Cheers.
Hello! Great video! What do you think about the b5244t3 2.4t engine valve lifter change? Shuld i remove the belt like this,and after valve cover,and camhafts? At 2000rpm i have little noise like valve noise,i changed the oil but doesn't work,pcv replaced. What do you think about? Why sound comes at 2000rpm? Have a good day!
Hey brotha! Have you change valve lifters on any Volvo before? Volvo doesn't have hydraulic lifters, it's pain to get valve lash set properly on Volvo due to stupid design. Let trusted mechanic to listen that noise before doing any repair. I seen very often after trying to do valve train cars ended at the junk yard. Well, back to your questions, you have to remove timing belt from the sprockets first. Cheers!
@@PistonShack Thank you for your answer! The B5244T3 2.4T engine doesn't have lifters? I filled little prolong oil additive,and the ticking sound is gone,but i changed the oil,and the sound come again. When i rev it to 5-6000rpm,the sound gone when the engine is normal running temperature.
greetings Heather! VVT exhaust seal little bit more complicated than NON VVT intake seal. I will make a video how to replace VVT camseal on Volvo with only simple homemade tools later. Cheers!
Hi Mira Mar. Thanks for an advice! PCV system was service recently. PCV system has solid vacuum, no blow by pressure. Camshaft seal just got dried up and came out. I thought crank pressure was a cause.
Mine did it and my PCV is clear, the PVC inlet manifold "upside down banjo"was updated to include a one-way valve, this to reduce the crankcase getting pressured by the turbo.
Hi PistonShack, thanks for your video. I replaced my timing belt as part of regular maintenance without using any camshaft locking tool and never thought replacing the intake and exhaust seal because I had no leaking issue and now I have it from the Exhaust camshaft. Did you have any idea or tip how to replace it and my concern here is how to tide it with sponge cord to secure the exhaust sprocket from moving as you easy done with your intake sprocket.!
My pleasure brotha! I wouldn't do seals now if they don't leak but with next timing belt replacement if car has over 300K I will put new seals as well. Mine didn't leak it just came out from the cylinder head right out.
Just as a point of consistency, at 16:15 or so you say to not get lube on the outer diameter of the seal - I agree with that and I might put a touch of loctite. However when you apply grease to the camshaft, you also smeared grease around the outer rim. That disagreed a lot with what you had said.
Hey Paul. Thank for your feedback. I like your comment. I only lubricated lip of the seal and the contact surface of the camshaft only not touching the seal seat. In the video it looks like I greased seal seat place. I have driven my Volvo everyday science - no any leaks) Cheers!
great videos! i have learned so much about my volvo from you thank you very much! i have watched a lot ,a whole lot of videos on water pump cam seals oil seals and timing belt and from all of those videos from all of those various methods and steps ,its like this ...paint mark every part and the exact place that each part bolts onto the motor or spins around in each place it spins on the motor.The belt, gears, pulleys ,shafts,EVERYTHING .mark every piece that you are going to take off before you take it off and when you put each part back on be sure all those parts match back up exactly. there are several methods to successfully removing the parts but which ever method you choose match up your marks exactly to the position the part was in before you started you will not fail.of course you should be very mechanically inclined and have the tools and paint as well ...if you are not you should for sure watch as many videos as possible and follow steps to a T. that worked great in my case for my volvo xc70 2.5T anyway.
Great point LanaJack. I will pin your comment up to help other viewers. Cheers!
Your simplistic approach to over complicated repairs is TESTAMENT to your personal ability,,, THANK
YOU & THANK YOU FOR THIS OPPORTUNITY TO LEARN FROM YOUR CHANNEL, 🎉🎉🎉🎉❤
I am working on this now. I bought the car for 1500 2 weeks prior to the mishap. The dealership wants 2500 to fix it lol. Thankful for your video
You can do it!
Best video on cam seal so far. You have the finess to make sure job is done right. Thank You.
Hi Roland! You are very welcome. I am glad it helped you out. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks for watching)
It is plain that you are well skilled in the way of the shitbox. I too am learning these skills. There are so few masters left.
You my friend are a genius I applied your techniques and got the job done in few hours
now I have to figure out my transmission troubles
Hey John! Yeh, I am glad it helped you out. What's wrong with your transmission (symptoms, codes, data ect.)?
One of the greatest ideas ever is your use of an empty gallon container to hold the bolts and parts as you take them off. You should demonstrate that idea in all your videos because it is useful for everything that people repair. A genius idea because it is so simple.
Great point! I will take your advice) You will see them in new video! Thanks Daniel!
My beloved Vo's oil light came on..... Oil just dumping out, i could tell the intake cam seal was out, but was worried i had other seals out too because how much oil i was losing. Nope that cured it! Thx for the video! I watched it twice the day before the seal came in! Back on the road. No leaks!
You're so welcome Sam! I would replace failed seal, filled up the engine oil then check actual engine with the gauge at the oil sensor (cold start, hot start, idle and 1.5-2.0K rpm) make sure your engine didn't have oil starvation causing any dame.
Nice job at explaining this... I got quoted $700 USD to replace the seal; well, I think I'll do it myself on my 2005 Volvo XC90... just need to find the right time, as I'm truly busy and it's hoooooottttt in Phoenix, Arizona. I truly appreciate folks like you sharing the knowledge. When you go to the grave, which we all will, we know that our knowledge is NOT going to be lost. Thank you thank you!!!!
My pleasure brotha! I am so glad this simple video can help you out. I have been driving this Volvo everyday since I fixed oil cam seal leak. After pricing cost of the repair (just to get a digits) at the dealer and local shop - Nope, too much! I went to local Volvo dealer bought couple seals, that was it. Then filmed a video).
You are right, knowledge is greatest asset, which lives forever. Greetings from British Columbia, Canada!
Let me know if you have any questions. BZW, thanks for your feedback and watching this video. Cheers RMP!
Thank you so much for this! I have put 10 qts of oil in my '01 V70XC in the last two days, while I tried to figure out where the leak was coming from. Once I found the splatter all inside my front/right wheel, I knew this was the video for me! I have confirmed the intake camshaft seal is a wobbly, loose bit, and this video just saved me a boatload of Volvo dealership debt! You rock a bunch!
Hello Hadamana! I am so glad this video helped you out to save your loved Volvo from going to the crusher or visit dealer shop! How is your XC70?
@@PistonShack the oil leak is better, but not gone =\
The original seal hardened and carved a groove in the camshaft, maybe? Still minor(ish) leaking around it. But I think I'm going to put her up for a bit and throw some time and parts at the list of issues she has, so I can drive with confidence again. 2001 was kind of a bad year for V70 transmissions and throttle management modules, and these poor engine mounts (all of them) have seen better days...
Excellent video. I have a small oil leak coming from top passenger side on my V70. I can see oil in the timing belt area. I will check to see if it is coming from the seal and if it does I will follow your instructions. I am on my third Volvo now, had 240, 740 and now V70. I will drive Volvos for the rest of my life, love them.
Hey Jacob! Thanks for your feedback) Let me know how is your repair or if you have any questions. Cheers!
this may sound crazy, but it worked for me. When this just happened to me 4 months ago, i was about gonna give up on a 260k volvo s70. Exactly as you see in this video was what it was.
I had already looked [desperately, as the leak was too bad] into oil sealants you add to oil. When i finally found what he shows here in this video, i had a long shot idea. I simply pushed the cam seal back in with a stubby screwdriver, working around it from opposite sides, so as to try to get it seated evenly. [this thru the holes you see in the 'sprocket'.] I didn't push hard, just gently. Crosshatch, like wheel lug nuts.
When i had the damn cam seal what i considered 'seated' in its recess, i bought some blue devil 'rear main sealer', and using a small paint brush [which i broke the handle off to make 'stubby'], i painted the blue devil product directly onto the cam seal itself. [this while it was snowing, in a parking lot!] I then bicycled home and came back next day, -leaving some ten hours of 'curing' time. [this ain't something 'blue devil' recommends!]
i then followed the 'blue devil' company's directions, [i think], simply pouring the bottle of 'rear main sealer' into the engine's oil crankcase and running the engine at idle for two hours. Despite some apprehension at starting it, the seal held! After the two hours of the motor idling, i GINGERLY drove the car home, and idled it some wherever i gingerly drove it for a few days. I BABIED IT!
within two weeks i drove it normally. Easy, but normal. A month later, i got on it here and there, -and I still do now! Too soon to say for sure, but i think it's a permanent fix!! May god show this to another who needs it to keep his 'beater' going, -volvo or no!
some points:
blue devil also makes 'oil stop leak', which i think is same formula, but more [fluid and money]. Think i paid $16ish for 'main sealer'. Blue devil's probably 'the best', though other brands are out there. The stuff expands gaskets and seals somehow. This stuff obviously made my 'loosey' cam seal expand enough to snug it firmly in place.
i should note that in this video, the seal seems different than mine was. It seems like if you were to start pushing it into its recess with something, it wouldn't have had as much resistance as mine did. But i can't be sure from a video... Even if it IS looser, you could duct tape a matching cylindrical object over it, or in some way hold it in. If you can get it to stay in after painting the 'stop leak' on it and adding it to motor oil, it could still expand it to hold. But if the cam seal pushes in snugly, so much the better.
My exhaust cam [rear] is a VVVT cam, with that kind of bell shaped pulley. It has no holes in it, as the 'sprocket' in this video does, to place a stubby screwdriver through! Thus, alas, you can't fix it this way. [at least i can't see how.] i think if my rear cam seal woulda blown, i'd a said goodbye to my baby, -cause doing this job 'right' ain't no walk in the park. And i do wrench some...
i also was warned that the pcv system likely caused this failure, and that i had to fix it or more trouble. But i did the dipstick test and the rubber glove test, [thanks robertDIY!], and they both passed. I think the seal just got old and i drove her too hard that night. I lost 3 qts of oil in ten miles b4 i finally stopped. I should change timing belt, [soaked in oil!], but won't, -as it was just changed! Just washed her down good with brake cleaner. [should give it a second wash soon again.]
since this doesn't seem a pcv issue, i would definitely recommend using 'high mileage' motor oil in your old car/ truck. Definitely these volvos! cheap insurance! It's similar to the blue devil stuff, but likely much less concentration. You could even add the blue devil stuff, maybe 1/3 of a bottle every other oil change. Mite be better.
Blue devil raised my oil pressure a lot. At least 1/4! [i got a gauge.] Don't kno why. But no harm i guess, and by golly, it saved my car! It may drop down when i change oil. There have been no side effects from this blue devil oil sealer, as there can be with 'sealers', generally. I've heard of them gunking up things, esp. coolant sealers.
it is possible that the cold weather may have [barely] helped my cam seal 'seat'. If it's summer, maybe you'd put ice [or freon?] in cam seal area... Just an idea. Who knows?
I originally left this comment on another video elsewhere.
The repair has never failed since, after nearly a year!
In fact, I just put some 3000 turnpike miles on car in this last month, with a lots of high speed hammering on her! Was over 100 mph 3x! No prob. This "miracle" fix is a solid as a rock.
Hi Gina! Thanks a lot for sharing with all of us your experience. I believe it might help someone. I avoid using "Stop Leak" additives if I can replace the seal because it might have side effects later but they work sometimes.
Hi from New Zealand, I had my 2002 Volvo V70 XC lose all its oil at the carpark yesterday afternoon leaving a pool of oil, I had no idea what the cause was but after watching your videos, I now have a good feeling that it is the camshaft seal. The car is going to the mechanic next week (I will clean the car park). I have shared your excellent videos with the mechanic, a great guy. I will let you know if it is the camshaft seal or something else. I have always owned a Volvo, 240, 245, 260, 265 and the magnificent 740 GLE and the powerful 760 GLE. The Volvo name comes from the infinitive of the Latin verb "volvere (to roll)" and it was conjugated into Volvo, which means "I roll." Keep them rolling. Thank you again.
Ops, this one just a copy)
I think my car have the same problem
Thank you..I thought this was more than I could do..but you showed every step I needed to take..thanks again
Glad it helped, Julio!
This is a very pleasant video to watch. Getting ready to replace the timing belts on my 95 and 97 Volvo 850s with over 250,000 miles. The kits come with new camshaft seals, so I wanted to see how to do this without cam locking tool, if possible. I was a little surprised you opted not to replace the exhaust cam seal while you were in there since it is so old.
Hey Alan! I didn't do it because first exhaust seal has different design, seats firmly compare to the intake cam seal and second seal didn't leak. I might replace it @350K with timing belt service.
Yeah, let me know how is your repair, also if you have any questions. Cheers brotha!
@@PistonShack I usually follow the adage "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." One exception has often been with engine seals, where I tend to err of the side of caution and replace them if I'm in the area. Perhaps it has to do with the vehicles I've owned in the past, which included several Chrysler, BMW, and Mercedes products, which liked to bleed oil from everywhere. I popped the cover off my '95 and looked at the seals. They're both dry as a bone, and since they aren't particularly difficult to get to, I've decided I won't fix what isn't broken. The '97 is a different story. Both are leaking, so they will get replaced. Since these have the older engine design, I think they have the same seals and gears for intake and exhaust. Never thought I'd love a Volvo until I fell into owning one. They are amazing machines.
@@aboyd1988 !00% brotha - don't fix it if it ain't broke! Thanks for sharing your experience. Well, I will replace rear main engine seal if it wasn't ever replaced) When I do clutch on my new project vehicles seals go as well! I like Volvo for their safety, performance, engineering and reliability! Volvo cars have character and personality)
Indeed.
Jug hack for cleaning was pretty damn smart! Well done! Pretty work all round!
Thank you for your feedback brotha! I am glad to share what I know to help Volvo owners to save Volvo from going to the crusher) Cheers!
PERFECT VIDEO, this video saved me so much my car has the exact same problem and i am getting the seal in and should be back on the road in a few days, thanks for the help!
Great to hear!
Great video! Especially the tensioner adjustment.
In addition to counting the teeth, I like to also mark the belt with the paint, another point of reference.
Awesome Peter! Thanks)
Interesting to watch even though I don't need to do this. Must have felt good to start the engine for the first time after this job!
So true brotha, so true. I hope it will help someone to save Volvo from going to the crusher. I saw on Craigs a few Volvo with an issue like this for an only a couple hundred $$. More Volvo vids are coming up. Thanks for watching.
thanks for this video it is a genuine DIY , straight to the subject ,more like these kind of videos
You're very welcome brotha! Yeah, I tried my best to make this video simple and easy to follow as possible straight to the point. I guess it will help to save some money! Let me know fi you have any questions. Cheers Amjad.
@@PistonShack Thanks Bro,any tips on EGR ,if you have please share it with us ,Thanks
@@amjadalamir5542 My pleasure Brotha! Sounds good. Do you have any particular question?
@@PistonShack the 17m banjo bolt below the manifold is difficult to remove ?
Good detail in your vid. My son has same car with similar oil loss condition..will investigate if that is the location of leak. Well done!
Glad it helped. Thanks Jim!
I love your clean up container!.....thanks for another superb video
Oh) Thanks Bruce! This repair alone helped me to save 1.5K$ last week.
@@PistonShack I am just finishing rebuild of my ATC CVT which will save me about the same!
@@sbmasson That's interesting! Knowledge and skill is greatest asset. Which vehicle is that?
@@PistonShack It is the UTV I had up there a couple of years ago. It is a 2007 Yamaha Rhino 660
Thank you for posting this video! We are experiencing this issue with our 2001 V70 and will be using this video as a reference to replace the seal. We love our Volvo! :)
Glad it helped Shannon! Let me know if you have any questions/
Great video.. was able to change out my camshaft seal no problem. thank you so much. Messed up on way out and over torqued one sprocket bolt so now I’m in the process of drilling it out. Lol but regardless this video helped save my old Volvo s60 to keep it going. Thank you!!
Thanks for you feedback John! How is your Volvo?
@@PistonShack so far good to go. I don’t expect any problems for the time being. Thank you again for getting me past that oil puddle!
I know this is an older video....but Either my cam seal or exhaust seal is bad. (2002 Volvo S60 2.4T) This video gives me the confidence to tackle this issue. Thank you sir! By the way, your english is awesome, great job! Youre talking like a regular person and not some "mechanical engineer". Im subscribing and will follow all you do.
Hey John! Thanks for your feedback. Just saw your comment showed up. I have never seen exhaust seal failing the same way. Let me know if you have any questions. Cheers!
Extraordinary detail !
Super helpful !!
I learned lots !!!
Thanks . 👊🏼 🔥
very good!! so, don't need to get the cam locking tool? just to confirm. Got the answer futher in the video. thanks a lot!!
Hey Mario. Well, that's up to you. I just shown how it can be done without any specialty tools. If you feel more comfortable using cam-locking tool, I would suggest to use it. Let me know how is your repair. Cheers!
Piston man you're the man. Thanks for your video.same problem with my 2001 Volvo, and thanks to you fixed to keep it on the road 👍
Glad it helped, Recardo! Thanks for your kind feedback. How is your Lovely V70 doing right now?
On the road and driven like a smooth gazelle. Thank you señor piston and God bless You.
@@ricardobernal6389 FANTASTIC! Volvo Last Forever, if you take care of them) God Bless You and Your Family, brother!
Great tutorial and makes it look easy..I gather the timing marks are pretty self-explanatory on the cam and the cover?
Fabtastic please Keep the videos coming you didn’t mention much about the crankshaft sprocket and the timing down there..i suppose if top cam timing right impossible to get the timing wrong on the crank..?
Eternal Gratitude
Ed
Good morning Edwin!
Thank for watching Edwin)
You don't need to worry about marks on crankshaft sprocket. We only have to set the first cylinder in top dead centre (TDC). Otherwise we need to remove harmonic balance pulley to get down to the crank marks, which is totally unnecessary in our application. When two marks at exhaust and intake sprockets alight with a timing cover, that will automatically set crank in proper position (if timing belt is in place). You can also remove first cylinder spark plug to verify 1st piston TDC position.
Take care brotha!
I did this work exactly how you said.
I wrote down every single step.
I counted the teeth before I took the belt off. However when I put everything back together, I counted one less tooth. Everything lined up but one tooth less.
Cranked the main shaft again to double check. Everything lined up but one tooth less.
I knocked on some wood then turned the ignition and the car started. It idled better than before so it must have gotten out of time when it busted the seal.
I swear even though there were a few mishaps in my part, I finished within 2hours.
Awesome knowledge you are passing along.
Thank you. I appreciate what you do.
Very helpful video. The exact same cam seal come loose in my 2002 s60 it has 165000 miles on the clock. Everything is on order. Need to do it this weekend. Wish me luck :D
My best wishes:) Let me know if you have any questions.Thanks for your feedback.
Finally some practical intelligence.... thanks for this video.... Have 05 xc90 2.5T 113K... I have the VVT so am not sure if this will apply because there are no marks on sprockets..... and I wish you'd show how to put the timing cover back on... took me over an hour, couldn't get the tabs in.
Gracias Gino! I am glad it helped you out to get your Volvo get back on a road. VVT and non VVT both sprockets have marks, I marked VVT camshaft exhaust sprocket in my video. There's so differences to remove VVT sprocket (how to take plug, main bolt and hold shaft in place). Later I will make a video for VVT seal as well. In one of the comment earlier I explained how to replace seal on VVT side. Cheers Brotha and thanks for watching.
… the timing marks on xc90’s are “ FAINT “ to say the least …. But they are there… tiny TINY little lines(outside of cam gears) marks on “inside” of cam gears ⚙️ are not timing marks WARNING..
Nice video and well explained. Just started to see this leak on my 09 c30 t5 so will need to do this myself to save $1000-$1500 that shops will charge to do this. Will probably replace the pvc breather box as well cause I replaced the diaphram a while ago and problem is still there.
Excellent video! Saved me mucho$ negating the Volvo special tools and your demonstration on setting tension / timing was far superior to the Haynes Manual.
Great to hear that brother! How is your repair going on?
This was a very good helpful video with one exception that i think might be rather important. This is why i comment the Video.
The wheel that was disembeled was locked into position at once without letting the evetual tension on the belt get lost.
So this is the way i whould do.
1. Put the cambelt on as showed in this video.
2. When cambelt is on loosen the 3 screws around the weel You dissasembeled before. (Just losen it a bit so all tension that might be there if You missed ever so slight will be lost.) During this process i have seen in other videos that the tension on the "tensioner" is put in max position. ( Like 50 degrees position)
3. Now we have secured that there is zero tension between the 3 wheels involved since only one wheel is dissembled and the other 2 wheels presumed to be ok in factory settings. This is a very critical procedure i think.
Please comment if You think i might be wrong.
NOW we tension the bolts at the right amount of Nm to the wheel.
4. Now You finally correct the tensioner to the right position. If 20 degrees surronding temperature in the mittle position.
Fasten the screw to the tensioner mittle position and were done.
Hey Peter! Thanks you for your detailed explanation. There's few ways to do it. I have done it based on my experience and referring to Haynes manual. Never had any issues ever since. Volvo runs like clock.
I would try the way you described next time doing the timing belt.
Thanks)
After 14 months finally had the balls to try this and I just want to thank you again my friend. Added New Oil, antifreeze, fuel and a new battery and turned the key and it's sounds smooth to me. There is.a faint squel which I think may be the oil when it sprayed all over may have came on the belts.
I wanted to ask you something is it okay for a week or so to drive without the timing belt Cover ? Just to make sure things are good ? Will a rainy day be a problem without that cover ?
Again God bless you for this video I really appreciate it.
Hey Amer! Such a great news! I remember we were chatting down in a comments last year. I will avoid getting any dirt and water on timing belt components. If everything set right, no leaks after running for few minutes, I personally won't worry about it. Might be later a bit tale upper cover off to check for any possible issues.
God bless you brother!
Impressive! I love the cleanliness in contrast with the shade tree engineering. Well Done! Do you have a how-to video for replacing the timing belt?
Hey Don! Thanks for your feedback - Appreciated! Unfortunately, I don't have timing belt replacement video but I will make one) Yeah, let me know if you have any questions. What Volvo do you have?
Helpful hint: use sandpaper to take the sharp edge off The bore that the seal goes into so you don’t shave the rubber right off of the outside of the seal.
Also, you can fabricate a disk with three holes in it and a large center hole and you can use the three bolts that hold the cam sprocket on to press the seal and evenly and consistently instead of using a hammer.
That's great point Lamont! Thank for your advice.
Excellent educational video, clearly presented and a big time & money saver ! many thanks for your time and effort.
My Pleasure Brother! I am so glad we can save another Great Volvo Car from going to the crusher! Nice) Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks for the vid! That was helpful gaining the confidence to just jump into this project.
Glad it was helpful Pete! Let me know if you have any questions. Cheers)
If u have the vvt system i highly recommend you get the cam locking tool and install it, if you remove the pullys you have to do a procedure to set timing to factor spect you loosen the center bolt and remove the center cap loosen the 3 8mm bolts around pully as well before doing all of this tho before you remove anything make sure your lines are all in place on top dead center and install the cam holder once u do that then you remove the cap loosen center t55 bolts and 8mm bolts then tight the center bolt just a bit turn pullys counter clockwise make sure the 3 center bolts are all the way counterclockwise then loosen center bolt again and turn pullys clock wise pully and vvt system clockwise then exhaust cam you turn 1 tooth b4 timing and the other one you turn 1 1/2 tooths b4 timing then u tight center bolt to 120nm then after you tighten it you set pullys to timing then put belt make sure all 3 lines match up turn engine backwards just a bit then turn in clockwise again set it on timing and if all lines match up then u tighten the center cap and hold the pressure on the ratchet and while your doing that you tighten the 3 8mm bolts on each pully as well and then you remove your cam holder tool turn engine 2 times make sure lines match up and your set put it back together and your good to go its a long process but it wont work any other way if u remove pullys to change seals
Hey BayismGameplay510! Thank you so much for detailed advice, you described everything everyone needs to know. I would pin your comment, make sure other viewers can read it as well.
Cheers!
Still can’t understand how your way for did it
Thank you, im a volvo fan and need replace just what you showed in video on my 2001 s60. I also have - 98 v70 and my son have two v70's. One mk1 and one mk2.
Sounds good brotha! I like "Sweedees". You guys have entire Volvo garage. I am glad it helped you out. Let me know if you have any questions.
@@PistonShack well, I like sweedes to, they are good neighbours) im as far South-West you can come in Norway, Karmøy))
@@PistonShack I do have one question, my son's mk2 v70, gasoline.. It runs ok cold but warm starts to go like it is miss fire. New coils, plugs..
@@EspenMathisenViking Thanks brotha) Same to you, if you are planning to visit, Canada especially British Columbia)
@@EspenMathisenViking Most likely it related electrical wiring (harness) or one of the inputs (sensors, switches ect.) to ECU starts acting up when vehicle warms up.
Do visual inspection, check for any wiring contacts, check spark should jump out (good coil/plug spark will jump 2-2.5 cm). Also try to do simple things first, swap coils, do contribution test to find which cylinder dead ect. When last time did you change plugs, coils. Also check fuel pump pressure at idle and 2000 rpm itt also could be weak worn out fuel pump as well.
Is it permanent or intermittent issue?
If got the same problem, very usefull video mate! Trying tomorrow!
Glad it helped out, brotha! Let me know if you have any questions.
That’s awesome knowledge.
Thank you for posting this video.
Glad it was helpful Adrian!
Good job, bro! From Kazakhstan.
You're so welcome Azamat! Thank you!
i have the same issue with my 99 2.9l . Gonna order the seal.cool video
Sounds good. Let me know how everything is going!
Good video. My car has a tappets problems have you a video for that?
Hi Stephen. No, unfortunately I don't have it. What actually happened to the tappets?
Wonderful video. Thank you! You are a great teacher.
Glad it was helpful, buddy!
Very nice vid. Thank you. Would have been good to see you remove a replace VVT actuator sprocket to see if the actuator creates any issues/challenges extra to the non-actuator sprocket. One question: when you are replacing the sprocket - so long at the cam has not moved at all - surely it doesnt matter how you put the sprocket back on?? Yes?
Great suggestion! I will definitely film everything when I will be doing VVT sprockets. How is your repair, btw?
just spray paint the cam gear before undoing the cam bolts it leaves easy to see marks for bolt heads to align cam gear.
Great point!
Nice video thank you.Can you do a video when you replace the vvt.My car sounds like a diesel car right now lol
Thanks for your valuable info. What if i rolled the cam wheel backwards?
well done sir, thank you! take apart as little as possible, great approach
Hey Matt. Appreciated, will do! Thanks for your kind feedback.
Have you tried this on the vvt? I think in addition to the crank lock method you are doing I will clamp the sprocket on the vvt to the belt to keep that cam from moving when you break that 90 ft lb torx inner bolt!
I was just curious why you didn't discuss what might have cause the seal to blow? Did you check your oil ventilation system and determine it wasn't plugged?
I am do the same thing I was curious why you did not replace the second cam seal on the back pulley? Wouldn't they both be dry and brittle by now? Including the crank seal at the bottom
Hi I have the exact same issue... I went out stuck the screwdriver behind the gear and there it was! saved me a bunch of diagnosis time. I have same set up no vvt on intake... just curious while you were there you didnt replace the other seal seems inevitable that it will go too...
Greetings brotha! No I did only one seal for now. I might do the rest with next timing belt work I am glad this vid came handy) Let me know how is your repair. Cheers!
@@PistonShack I finally got in there and did it exact same problem. All done and fixed for the price of a seal thank soooo much!
@@Subtropicalsband My congratulations! I am glad one more beautiful Volvo was saved today from going to the crusher! My pleasure brotha!
Perfect. Just did my 2002 Volvo v70 XC. AWD
Do you have a video on replacing the PVC System?
Hi John! Awesome, I am glad it helped you out. Thanks for your feedback. Unfortunately, I didn't film when I did it early days.
You made it look easy, I just paid a good chunk for timing belt, water pump, seals and VVT actuator...ALWAYS USE VOLVO OEM ONLY!
Hi, I wanted to thank you for this video. I am looking into a 2003 volvo s60 and I have never owned a Volvo, nor do I know anything about them. What should I look out for, other than this massive oil leak issue? Thank you so much, again. I look forward to watching more of your videos.
Glad I could help! Thanks a lot for watching, your feedback. I would say: if you found decent Volvo car bring it to the local Volvo garage for an inspection prior the purchase. I would check body, make sure vehicle wasn't in any major accident. ASIN transmission is very sensitive to ATF quality, if fluid wasn't change - most likely gearbox will go out first. Check for blow by, when you take oil filler cap off, should have vacuum. Check if previous owner has prove of all maintenance and repair records. The best advice to take a car to mechanic you trust.
Let me know if you have any other specific Volvo questions.
I replaced both front cam seals of a S70 year 99, locked the cams at the back beforehand. Put the vvt hub back in the previously marked resting position and spring loaded at the time of belt installation. When I test rotate the engine manually ,there is a spot where the sprocket timing marks align with the top cover I have to have a bigger force to move through and the tensioner roller arm swings to the right and a half circle later swings to the left showing less tension. Is there a conflict in the system which can be fatal if motor being turned on. Thanks if you could answer this and for this clear descriptive video you've posted.
Sorry for such a late reply, lost your comment. Bzw, how is your repair?
everything is easy and clear!
Piston Shack, thank you for this video. I am trying to do the same but it seems the cam shaft turned slightly when I removed the bolts from the pulley. How do I get the shaft realigned with the original position?
Glad it helped Ed! I would put sprocket back turn the cam shaft to align sprocket mark with mark on upper cover, then take bolts off without moving the sprocket.
Hey nice video,, except that music .. Your engine PCV system is getting plugged and crankcase pressure becomes the force that pushes seals out under boost. Your exhaust cam or rear main seal will likely get pushed out next and you definitely need locking tool to torque 80 ft/lbs center bolt on exhaust cam sprocket. Keep up good work.
You are very welcome Rich!
Thanks for watching it. I would like to add a few words to your comment.
PCV system had and has a good vacuum. Over pressurized PCV system will push oil through the seal but 99% won't push the seal out. The seal was old and dry which couldn't sit at high RPM.
There way to replace exhaust camshaft seal. I should film exhaust seal replacement later. How to do the repair without specialty tools. You just need old timing belt couple pairs of vise grip pliers, 3/8 or 1/2'' power ratchet and few sockets. There is a way to torque 80 ft/lbs center bolt-on exhaust cam sprocket.
The music clip became so load after all. I set music to 1% and voice recording up to 100% but after I uploaded the video to UA-cam background music turned a bit loud.
The exhaust seal (HomeStyleRepair) is coming later with timing belt replacement.
Cheers!
@@PistonShack did you ever make that exhaust seal and timing belt video
I also use a square.its actually a speed square,it has a lip you can rest on your horizontal ( plastic cover) .works great for accuracy
Fabulous
good video, i have to do the exhaust side what will be about the same 👍thanks.
Thank you for sharing this!! Yesterday my 06 S40 engine just shutoff while driving. The engine will turn when attempting to start but it won’t start. I check the T-belt and it looks good. However, when trying to start the engine, it does sound as if I had removed all spark plugs and then tried to start the engine. It sounds es as if it didn’t have any compression. What could this be?
Hey Traxxi2003! Most likely you don't have fuel pressure. Did it died slowly on you or just shutt offf right away. Check this video, it happened to me last year - car died on me: VOLVO CRANK NO START - FUEL ISSUE | TROUBLESHOOTING & REPAIR.
ua-cam.com/video/EKfR6s9fp0I/v-deo.html
Let me if you have any questions.
@@PistonShack , it shutoff right away. On mine it was the a/c compressor belt that came apart, somehow parts of the belt got into the crankshaft timing belt sprocket and the motor jumped timing. I have no compression
What if the exhaust cam is leaking... would locking it with the 30mm still work, I understand some may spring loaded etc. but in terms of needing the cam lock, is it a necessity for the exhaust side?
Hi its Dan, I have oil on the engine along the diesel injectors, could you please tell me where its coming from, thank you, Dan
Hey Dan. It's difficult to tell for sure without see the vehicle. I would wipe/clean all oil then just check after day-two days driving to locate the leak. Any luck finding the leak?
Good film, Question from me, Last week the exhaust camshaft wheel from my XC70 "2002 2.4t came lose from the camshaft while driving. no timing no starting.
Do you think it needs a new engine?
Thanks Rob! I won't discard the engine yet. Did cam sprocket came off completely?
@@PistonShack Nope, its still attatched but came appro 5/6 millimeters of. Distribution belt is still in place. Only te camshaft is not turning.
Oilseal is pushed out and leaking. Before i bought it, there was a another engine placed. maybe the forgot to fasten the exhaust sprocket.
Do you have suggestions for me?
@@robstelten6658 Hey Robe. I would get cam looking tool online and reassemble everything replacing seal and might be exhaust vvt sprocket if it damaged.
Thanks, great help. Keep up the good work.
Hello I have a 2.5 turbo and I have to drive it cross country it does have this oil leak where I see it leaking on the subframe from the cam seals. I cannot afford to fix it and my timing belt doesn't look like it's wet do you think I could drive it for a little bit before I get the repair? Everyone talks about the timing about being wet I looked at my timing belt it's not wet but it still does leak oil down on the subframe maybe about a half a quart every 4,000 miles so a very slowly but it still leaks nonetheless.
Do you have a video on how to replace the camshaft seals on the back side of the camshaft
Timing belt was replaces as well as camshaft seal was replaces on my volvo S60. After the repair car turned on run 200miles parked in my driveway and won't turn back on...hoping it's just a tension easy fix...what do you recommend
Hey Gelamish!
Sounds it doesn't crank at all - Crank No Click No Start or it Clicks? I would start with basics. Check it power present on commant wire at the solenoid when you crank. Next try to turn engine over with a ratchet. Do you have any DTC related data or codes preset. Let me know I will get back soon as I can. Cheers!
@@PistonShack thank you for your attention.. wen I turn the key it's sound realy Close to starting like if it was out off gas..10 codes come up more than one are missfire.
Ill have a chance again by the end of this week to recheck the timing marks. i will turn one full turn by hand the bottom ⚙️ and see if after the drive the timing moved. Hope I go go from there to rule out the problem
@@gelamich Do you have tachometer signal while cranking engine over? Multiple misfires usually related to 1-5 degrees cam / crank timing off set.
@@gelamich I will verify that for sure. Please remember if timing belt fail or goes off too far it could damage the engine. All Volvo engines are interference. Can you also share all DTC codes you have. Cheers!
Guys, minute 8:07 you can see as exhaust polley rotate anticlockwise itself at least one tooth when you dissamble the belt. I had problems with it when I reinstall the belt. I did not realize this and I thought that as i had not touch anything when all was dissambled the polley was in correct position but was not. I respected all marks and position and when i reinstalled and I switch on a noise come from the engine, i have the vvt polley one tooth backward.
Caution guys with VVT system, It has a life of its own.
So if you make the marks on the sprocket and inside of the camshaft you don't have to lock in place the back of the camshaft?
Hey Mario! Well, I managed to replace intake cam seal sprocket without using locking tool but if you feel more comfortable using locking tool, specially if you need to work on VVT ones.
What other seals blew out after replacing this one?? I'm pretty sure you had further problems caused by a clogged PCV.
None, no any oil leaks or blown seals. Btw, entire pcv system was recently serviced. Old seal dried out and came lose out. Do you have the same issue on your Volvo?
300k? Barely out of break-in period! (Lolz)
Great simple fix on this. Wish the VVT version was as simple...
I am at 324K right now, she runs like a new! Non VVT is pretty easy but VVT is doable as well. Next spring I'm planning to replace timing belt kit plus VVT exhaust seal as well. New Video: Volvo VVT Camshaft Seal Repl. No Locking Tool is Coming!
What Volvo do you drive?
BZW, thanks for watching and subscribing for more! Cheers.
@@PistonShack 2004 S60R - it's Volvo #16 for me - Plastidipped Swedish Flag!
@@CaptainSeamus Mine broke down today on a road - Lost boost, no power and died.
@@PistonShack ouch. Hopefully it's easy like an intake pipe popped off, and not a mess like I had a while back.
If you have it, definitely hook Vida/Dice unit up and see what the car says happened.
@@CaptainSeamus I checked pipes and basic troubleshooting on-site for crank no start issue. Sounds like a turbocharger or ECU etc. I have Vida Dice as well! I will let know! Cheers!
removing the timing belt from the cam sprocket only and strapping the belt up so the other sprockets cant move ... is that correct ,or am i missing something?if so can i repeat process for the exhaust cam sprocket?
Hi great video! Well done!
Just wondering, since the VVT cam is spring loaded, will you not risk it moving when loosening the belt?
You are so welcome brother! It should be fine. Just count number of teeth to make sure your belt isn't off. I have been driving since no any issues at all.
I just did this exact repair... I think the vvt cam stays in place and doesnt move unless you loosen it?
@@Subtropicalsband Nope, I won't worry about exhaust VVT sprocket. If everything checked out how I shown it should be good to good. I put 10K km after I did my repair - runs like clock.
Hi, i am rebuilding the head on my 2.4i S40 and lost the position on the exhaust cam sprocket, do you know if these come marked ? Its the non vvti sprocket
Sorry just found your comment under the video 3 months later. Bzw, how is your S40 repair?
I will start this process tomorrow.
However, I started today but could not find the mark for the timing on the main crankshaft below.
If I line up both top timing marks, will that work. I cannot make out the bottom mark.
wonderful!!!thank you very much for share .
You're so welcome Enrique! Let me know if you have any questions. BZW, on what Volvo are you working on?
Can you follow the same or approximate method for the VVt version?
Do you have to take off the valve cover or anything else besides the timing belt cover? Im still trying to find the leak on my engine but its in that general area . Im not that mechanically inclined and just trying to figure out how much i could remove without having the tools to torque anything back to original spec. Just trying to find this damn leak 😅
How do you get the seal out if it’s not as easy to get out as in the video?
Seal came out on it own while I was driving. If you interesting how to replace seal I have great video on my channel, check it out:
HOW TO REMOVE & INSTALL ANY SEAL on your CAR PROPERLY. EASY TIPS & TRICKS ua-cam.com/video/-DyynHkRtJ0/v-deo.html
Thanks!
Do you have to keep exhaust from moving by keeping timing belt tight with bungle cord
I just used rubber bungle cord to keep belt up on crankshaft pulley. After you removed timing belt from intake sprocket, you have nothing to do with exhaust cam. I will make another video later, how to replace exhaust cam seal without holder tool. Cheers James!
my 06 volvo xc70 2.5t developed a slight coolant leak about 20000 miles ago that has progressed gradually since.it also developed an oil leak started about the same of time and rate of progression .for the past month have been adding a quart of oil and about a pint of coolant every sunday. the (low coolant stop safely)message appears every time the coolant drops below the min line on res.tank and i always stop and add the little bit, less than a pint to the tank putting it back up in between the min/max lines.it has never gotten the least bit hot or made the needle move from just below top dead center on the gauge and the low oil pressure message or oil light ever come on .Today however i was less than 1 mile from home when the low coolant message came on which is normal by the end of the week and the oil light came on for the 1st time ever and by the time i turned in my driveway no oil pressure turn off engine message came across the message board i immediately turned off the car and coasted into my drive.i got out and popped the hood there was quite a bit of oil and coolant dripping from everywhere on that side of the engine compartment what would most likely cause that to happen the same day? camshaft seal and waterpump ??? there is no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil
I would top up coolant and oil, remove plastic covers from the engine, wipe spilled fluids best as possible then start the engine trying to locate the leaks.
I just had coolant leaking from the water pump on my Volvo last month. Low Coolant message came on. Ended up replacing leaky pump.
Let me know how is you repair.
Sorry for the late reply.
@@PistonShack water pump with a problem still trying to figure out what made all the oil end up on the ground I just ordered a water pump timing belt cam seal kit she's got 250,000 miles on her so figured why not go ahead and do that too while I'm in there you have any tricks for tips please let me know if I parked will be here on the 31st
Hello there!
How did you ”reset” the camshaft?
How easy is it to replace the exhaust cam seals using this method? I think the exhaust cam gear might be harder to remove.
Greetings! Yes, you right. Exhaust side sprocket hex screw torqued up to 80 ft.lb. I am going to replace my timing belt kit this spring. There's the way to get exhaust done. I briefly explained it in previous comments but video will make everything easy! I will make a video as well. Cheers.
Hello!
Great video!
What do you think about the b5244t3 2.4t engine valve lifter change?
Shuld i remove the belt like this,and after valve cover,and camhafts?
At 2000rpm i have little noise like valve noise,i changed the oil but doesn't work,pcv replaced.
What do you think about?
Why sound comes at 2000rpm?
Have a good day!
Hey brotha! Have you change valve lifters on any Volvo before? Volvo doesn't have hydraulic lifters, it's pain to get valve lash set properly on Volvo due to stupid design. Let trusted mechanic to listen that noise before doing any repair. I seen very often after trying to do valve train cars ended at the junk yard.
Well, back to your questions, you have to remove timing belt from the sprockets first.
Cheers!
@@PistonShack Thank you for your answer!
The B5244T3 2.4T engine doesn't have lifters?
I filled little prolong oil additive,and the ticking sound is gone,but i changed the oil,and the sound come again.
When i rev it to 5-6000rpm,the sound gone when the engine is normal running temperature.
@@PistonShack or thats an tapets on the valve?
Shoul the 5w40 oil is the problem?
what about the exhaust seal? Any ideas for doing that without the tool?
greetings Heather! VVT exhaust seal little bit more complicated than NON VVT intake seal. I will make a video how to replace VVT camseal on Volvo with only simple homemade tools later. Cheers!
is there only 1 seal to replace? what about exh cam?
Hi Michael! Exhaust seal was perfectly fine I will do it with next timing belt service.
The camshaft seal came off because of excessive crankcase pressure. You should clean the PCV system. Good video!
Hi Mira Mar. Thanks for an advice! PCV system was service recently. PCV system has solid vacuum, no blow by pressure. Camshaft seal just got dried up and came out. I thought crank pressure was a cause.
Mine did it and my PCV is clear, the PVC inlet manifold "upside down banjo"was updated to include a one-way valve, this to reduce the crankcase getting pressured by the turbo.
Ty good info brother 😊
Any time my friend!
great job, excellent information
Glad it was helpful!
Do you think I could use this method on a D5 diesel
Hi PistonShack, thanks for your video. I replaced my timing belt as part of regular maintenance without using any camshaft locking tool and never thought replacing the intake
and exhaust seal because I had no leaking issue and now I have it from the Exhaust camshaft. Did you have any idea or tip how to replace it and my concern here is how to tide it with sponge cord to secure the exhaust sprocket from moving as you easy done with your intake sprocket.!
My pleasure brotha! I wouldn't do seals now if they don't leak but with next timing belt replacement if car has over 300K I will put new seals as well. Mine didn't leak it just came out from the cylinder head right out.
Thank you very MUCH
You are welcome James! I am glad to help you get your Volvo back on a road)
Just as a point of consistency, at 16:15 or so you say to not get lube on the outer diameter of the seal - I agree with that and I might put a touch of loctite. However when you apply grease to the camshaft, you also smeared grease around the outer rim. That disagreed a lot with what you had said.
Hey Paul. Thank for your feedback. I like your comment. I only lubricated lip of the seal and the contact surface of the camshaft only not touching the seal seat. In the video it looks like I greased seal seat place. I have driven my Volvo everyday science - no any leaks) Cheers!