How to Fiberglass a Fuselage (Top Flite Cessna 182 Part 10 Build series)
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- In this video part 10 we continue on with the glassing of the fuselage sides, top sections and control surfaces. Install the rear one piece window and blend it into the fuselage making it seamless. Utilize Bob Moore's razor blade technique to cut down the resin prior to block sanding, then off to primer. I glassed the main wing and now we are ready for final sanding and panel line/rivets which will be on Part 11 of the Top Flite Cessna 182 build series. So like and subscribe so that you won't miss future videos that is uploaded on the channel.
Bayona's RC World Merch
www.bayonasrcw...
Another round of applause to you for sharing your amazing video series. I'm half way done with a TP Cessna 182 kit and your tips have been a great time saver! Thank you again!
@@roddraym awesome! Thanks for watching I truly appreciate you. Happy building and flying
Absolutely beautiful flying model I wish now I didnt sell mine
Thank you for watching and commenting. Such a beautiful flying and looking model for sure. This is my 2nd Top Flite Cessna 182 build. My first one was back in 1994
Superb !!!
@@ioannisbatas1614 thank you
Great video - especially the razor blade technique!
Thank you very much.
Great work! Thanks for taking the time to make your videos..they are very helpful..
Thank you
Love that ZAP Resin. Works great on water proofing RC boats.
Yup! Excellent product
Great job and beautiful plane!
Much appreciated 🙏
That looks beautiful! I’ve never glassed anything before, but you’re making me want to give it a try. Great video!
Yes Frank you should glass your P-40 you are currently building. ;)
@@stevejones9044 that’s the plan. 👍👍
Great work. You make glassing look easy. I've used a technique I saw before where you thin the finishing resin down with denatured alcohol. Looks like you used the resin straight up with no thinning.
No thinning necessary if done the way I did it in the video. It is pretty easy and yields good results.
Great work, looks awesome. I am hoping you video the full painting and finishing process in the same detail. Thank you for taking the time to share your skills.
I still have to do the panel lines and rivets so gonna be alittle longer.
This video was already long enough and overdue!
ua-cam.com/video/Cg7eIJUq36w/v-deo.html
Super job 👍
Thank you for the kind words.
Thinking of glassing my P-40.
Wow cool almost like gassing a surfboard
Sweet! However I never glassed a surfboard hehehehehehehe
If you have a airport near you there maybe be a 182 there that you could take pictures of and then you’ll have photos to look at up close.
Unfortunately not here on Guam.
Great video as always! I’m fairly new to fiberglassing, how many coats of finishing resin did you apply before priming the airframe?
Thank you!
First saturation coat then 2nd cost to fill in all the weaves.
Your videos are excellent and the quality of your work speaks for itself. You also answer all of the questions and comments. Very impressive. I subscribed. Have you considered the toilet paper method for removing the excess resin? A bit messy but seems to work well.
Yeah I have seen that method and others. I just like the method I have been using throughout this build since for me it is easier and faster.
And thank you for watching and subscribing to the channel. Much appreciated my friend.
Awsome work! What type of primer did you use ?
I used a primer surfacer by Evercoat. I was going to use my 2K primer but I had run out of activator. Anyhow it is a acrylic urethane primer surfacer.
@@BayonasRCWorld Can you use a water-based polyurethane surface primer ? ex. www.walmart.ca/en/ip/Acrylicos-Vallejo-VJP70627-Game-Air-Skeleton-Bone-Surface-Primer-Paint/PRD3R2AZO9CLNQB
looking sweet mon....
Thanks 😊
Can you use an oil base polyurethane on fibreglass to cover XPS foam ? Does it works? As the water base polycrylic or resin epoxy ??
To be honest I never tried oil base polyurethane over XPS foam. I have used Minwax water base Polycrylic and Zpoxy finishing resin over XPS foam with good results. I would say get a small piece of XPS foam and give it a try with the oil base polyurethane and fiberglass. That would be the best way to confirm its effects on the XPS foam if any. The test will give you the answers you looking for first hand.
Copy that! Thank you!
You bet! And anytime
Hi Mike.. How long time between 1 and second layer of resin.......Big Fan Of YOU..............
All depends on your resin mixture plus ambient temperature. So best way to check is with your finger. After application of saturation coat giving at least 30 mins touch the glass and resin and if resin transfers to your finger tip then it is too early. The surface should be tacky and no wet resin on finger tip. Once in this condition your 2nd coat or skim coat should be applied pressing the resin into the weave while also removing excess resin build up. Hope that helps
@@BayonasRCWorld Thank you for answer. it make sense. i am moving on glassing. Can i do the skincote toworrow, or is it too late!
The problem once the 1st coat completely cures is that the surface becomes slippery like applying resin over glass. No mechanical bond will take place making it a waste of time. Unless you scuff the surface first which then makes more work at this stage.
@@BayonasRCWorld Thank you so much.... Do you know where i can get lucky to find the COCKPIT INTERIOR KIT.
planesgoneby.com/products/
Looking good....What is the next build..A Midwest extra 300s would be nice to see...I have built 2 of their cap232 kits....Very nice wood in the kits.....
I have a unfinished Carl Goldberg Extra 300 that I would need to finish up after the Cessna 182. Also I have the Super Hots that I also would love to start on as well. A old time favorite for sure.
@@vincentfittante6794 I will give that a shot! Thanks a bunch.
Never seen the razor method for smoothing out resin coat, looks affective. What was that material you used for corrugation on elevator? Great job fairing in rear window. Where did you get interior details and door hinges.
Over all looking Outstanding!
The corrugated strips came in the kit. The interior came in a kit specifically made for the Top Flite Cessna 182. I made the door hinges out of 1/16" ply.
The razor blade technique comes from Bob Moore you can find him on UA-cam under channel name hornitpilot
@@BayonasRCWorld I can’t believe you made hinges out of ply, they look killer.
Hey Bayona. Wondering if we can order top flite cessna gold edition 81" wing span kit anymore?
Unfortunately the kit is not in production any longer by Top Flite. However you can find people who has the kit that is willing to sell it. Also Carl Michael Hansen of Planes Gone By Hanger is reproducing the Top Flite kits and he is currently making the cockpit kit for the Cessna 182.
@@BayonasRCWorld Excellent info. Thanks.
What a beautiful job and workmanship you did on this pretty airplane. Wow.
@@smileyhomeimprovementsjohn6165 Thanks for the kind words my friend. So are you looking to build another Cessna 182? The one that you build awhile back is beautiful and the box that you made for it.
@@BayonasRCWorld I am thinking about it.
What type of touch up gun did you use and what air pressure did you use.
I was using my War-Wick model 8788 hvlp at 28psi at the gun.
how did you made the engine cover?
The cowling was provided in the kit in three parts that was glued together to make up the entire cowl. Just like the wheel pants and tail cone
woul it possible to send me some photo of cowling before you glue them together. I want to know how it was made in the first place. I might desin to 3D print @@BayonasRCWorld
Have you tried contacting Cessna directly for panel and rivet info. Any 182’s on the island, for reference.
No Cessna 182's just a few 172
No I have not tried to make contact with Cessna yet
What was that material you had on a roll for corragation strips.
@@sorenwolff4954 on a roll?
@@BayonasRCWorld my mistake. It looked like pin stripping tape, but was not. Thin strips of material that you glued down on elevator to make the corrugation ribs.