This oak kitchen chair had a split in the seat that was apparently due to "glue fail". The operation was a success and the patient made a full recovery.
I used the same way for my clamps but I only have one larger clamp. I'm going to put it where it won't be used that much. Wish I knew what brand glue you used. I would rather spend more for something that works well.
I am a little confused. My dad was taught (and he taught me) that you cannot glue wood that has already been glued becuse the new glue cannot penetrate the wood properly. Can you explain why that is true or false?
There are a couple things worth examining. Your dad is technically correct. Just like when you weld two pieces of metal together and put it under stress it will never break at the weld, but breaks at another spot because the weld is stronger than the surrounding areas. "Modern" glue acts the same way and joins the wood so strong that the wood fibers break before the glue joint. The older chairs like the one in the video used a different glue, it didn't penetrate the fibers but acted as substrate joining two together. In that sense your dad is correct. Modern glue is water based and soaks and causes the wood to even swell. After the glue "cures" (different than drying) it's super strong. This is the way it's been explained to me. Thanks for watching. (extra explaining because my wife thinks I talk too much) when gluing boards together, if you apply too much clamp pressure you can actually squeeze out (starve) the joint and ruin the connection. This has happened to me on cutting boards.
I have a similar problem with my chair but not sure which types of clamps to get. Is there a reason you use the parallel clamps instead of only the squeeze clamps? Can I used two or three Irvin Quick Grip 518qc Quick Change Bar Clamp or would that not be enough pressure? Second question is the seat is split in the middle and not completely separated. The very back and front (where you used the small clamps vertically in your video) are still in tact (if that makes sense) so will I have to clamp the very ends with the small clamps as well or can I just clamp them horizontally?
Thanks for your question. I used the parallel clamps really because I had them. They work so well and can apply a tremendous amount of pressure. But any clamp will work fine, including squeeze clamps. Hope it works out.
You won't have to clamp the rear if it's still connected. Just force as much glue in as you can. You can open the split a little wider with some wedges(popsicle stick) to make it easier.
Great video. I am currently working on a dining set that has splits in three of the four bow back chair seats exactly the same type of thing as you show in the video. I'm using Titebond original and two bar clamps as paralell clamps plus two squeeze clamps at the ends to keep the seat aligned. Just glued them about an hour ago. I'll leave them clamped up for at least several hours more. Hoping for the best!
Hahaha! I'm sure others have thought about it too. It's an old shop vac thats used for my table saw. The hose is got plenty of wood dust inside to absorb the small amount of glue. It's still working great. But please don't use a home vacuum cleaner for this. Thank for your view and comment.
That vacuum is still going strong. And I've used this method a few times since. My theory is..... There's a lot of dust inside the hose and canister, so the glue sticks to it and hardens and is easily dumped.
Exact same chair with the exact same problem. Thanks for going step by step!
You're welcome. Good luck
@@crimsonwoodworking9609 2 months later and it's still holding after taking some abuse from the little ones! Thanks a bunch!
Using the vacuum cleaner was a great idea! Subscribed.
Great work...good video.
I used the same way for my clamps but I only have one larger clamp. I'm going to put it where it won't be used that much. Wish I knew what brand glue you used. I would rather spend more for something that works well.
very helpful I just reoaired one using a brace I would have rather used the pocket screw method - thanks
I am a little confused. My dad was taught (and he taught me) that you cannot glue wood that has already been glued becuse the new glue cannot penetrate the wood properly. Can you explain why that is true or false?
There are a couple things worth examining. Your dad is technically correct. Just like when you weld two pieces of metal together and put it under stress it will never break at the weld, but breaks at another spot because the weld is stronger than the surrounding areas. "Modern" glue acts the same way and joins the wood so strong that the wood fibers break before the glue joint. The older chairs like the one in the video used a different glue, it didn't penetrate the fibers but acted as substrate joining two together. In that sense your dad is correct. Modern glue is water based and soaks and causes the wood to even swell. After the glue "cures" (different than drying) it's super strong. This is the way it's been explained to me. Thanks for watching. (extra explaining because my wife thinks I talk too much) when gluing boards together, if you apply too much clamp pressure you can actually squeeze out (starve) the joint and ruin the connection. This has happened to me on cutting boards.
I'm literally watching this to learn how this exact chair! It must be an issue on this style.
Just just did an update video on the same type of chair, you may want to watch. ua-cam.com/video/FAXFjTx795I/v-deo.html
I have the exact same chair... same exact situation
I have the same problem. Only I don't have clamps . Guess I am going shopping
Harbour freight!
@@crimsonwoodworking9609 Thank they are way expensive at HD
This is exactly what ive got, glue wore out i guess.
What is the purpose of the chair seats to be separate pieces of wood instead of one solid piece.
Finding 24 inch wide oak lumber would be tough, and expensive. It's much cheaper to Laminate pieces together.
I have the exact chair with the exact crack.
Then you should give it back! Haha sorry, lame joke.
I have a similar problem with my chair but not sure which types of clamps to get. Is there a reason you use the parallel clamps instead of only the squeeze clamps? Can I used two or three Irvin Quick Grip 518qc Quick Change Bar Clamp or would that not be enough pressure? Second question is the seat is split in the middle and not completely separated. The very back and front (where you used the small clamps vertically in your video) are still in tact (if that makes sense) so will I have to clamp the very ends with the small clamps as well or can I just clamp them horizontally?
Thanks for your question. I used the parallel clamps really because I had them. They work so well and can apply a tremendous amount of pressure. But any clamp will work fine, including squeeze clamps. Hope it works out.
You won't have to clamp the rear if it's still connected. Just force as much glue in as you can. You can open the split a little wider with some wedges(popsicle stick) to make it easier.
@@crimsonwoodworking9609 Thanks you so much for taking the time to respond. I really appreciate it.
Great video. I am currently working on a dining set that has splits in three of the four bow back chair seats exactly the same type of thing as you show in the video. I'm using Titebond original and two bar clamps as paralell clamps plus two squeeze clamps at the ends to keep the seat aligned. Just glued them about an hour ago. I'll leave them clamped up for at least several hours more. Hoping for the best!
That chair had more problems than that crack.. fire wooooooood..
I hear ya! The lady I repaired it for said it had sentimental value. So I do what I can.
How do you clean out the vacuum cleaner?
Hahaha! I'm sure others have thought about it too. It's an old shop vac thats used for my table saw. The hose is got plenty of wood dust inside to absorb the small amount of glue. It's still working great. But please don't use a home vacuum cleaner for this. Thank for your view and comment.
@@crimsonwoodworking9609 Thanks !! Now I know!
What's the name of the glue that you use?
Titebond 3
@@crimsonwoodworking9609 thank you :)
What happens to the wood glue that goes into the shop vacuum? Does it accumulate anywhere undesirable?
That vacuum is still going strong. And I've used this method a few times since. My theory is..... There's a lot of dust inside the hose and canister, so the glue sticks to it and hardens and is easily dumped.
What kind of glue are you using?
Titebond 3. It gives you a little more open time to get clamps set and it's water proof.