I can't tell you how grateful I am that you posted this video. I'm a 56 yr old female, and although it took me some time (due to lack of muscle power) I was able to change my own tub drain. Your very helpful tips made a difference between impossible, and possible. Thank you!
+Patricia DelMercado You are more than welcome! Sorry I didn't respond until now. Just found your note. I am glad everything worked out for you! Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Hello Steve, Sorry tp hear that. It never fails when you think something is going to go easy; it turns out to be a bigger job than it should be. Every now and then I run into an issue such as yours and know that the job has just multiplied in size. Hopefully everything works out for you. Thanks for commenting and best of luck! Al
Thank you so much for this video. None of the others I watched demonstrated how to remove the drain plug and their videos were more confusing than anything, too much blabbering. My plug wouldn't just unscrew but finally, thanks to you, I could remove it by the screw on the side that you showed. Now I did have to purchase plumber's putty and a drain remover but so much cheaper than paying hundreds for a plumber.
Hello Jane-Marie, You're welcome! I am glad the repair went well for you! Good call on the plumber's putty! It's the only way to fly. Can never go wrong with it. I have been using it for over forty years and have never had a problem. Little easier with the tool. Since I made this video I discovered a big box store that sells knock offs much much cheaper than the brand names. Hopefully that is the purchase you made. Regardless, you got the job done! Congrats on the repair! Thanks for the kind words and enjoy your week! Al
wow, thank you. I'm so glad to see that you had plan a,b,c, and d, all ready to go. I'll need every one of them and they're very good ideas. If I can't get these to work for me I guess I'll have to buy the $30 tool for single use. Thanks for sharing the wisdom.
Hello Bonk, You're welcome! I hope everything goes well for you with the repair! A new tub drain removal tool of good quality would cost about $55 dollars. Since making this video I saw that Homedepot sells a knock off for about ten dollars. It will get the job done if everything else fails. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the repair! Al
Thanks for this video! I was another one of those with plumber's putty, making it difficult to get the initial "break". However instead of going out and getting the official tool, I simply got a second crescent wrench to place on the opposite cross-piece, slid the screwdriver through both, and with a little bit of determination, it came loose.
Hello Traci, I am glad it went well for you. The tool is a few dollars and the average homeowner may only use it once. Nice job with the ingenuity! Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
If this stuff was easy, I would not have subscribed to your channel a few years ago. You have a way to show the tricks that are needed to fix it, when normal repair goes all to hell. Great job.
Joe Bucci Hello Joe; I am glad you subscribed and I appreciate your comments! Sometimes you run into problems and have a bit of a challenge, but there is always a solution. There are a few tricks that I have learned over the years that work quite well that I don't mind sharing. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
You can put one pair of pliers handles down into the drain and twist it with another. That'll at least grab it in two spots. I went the $6 for the tool, myself, since I've actually ended up doing this 7 or 8 times for friends and family members. It hasn't failed me yet and takes 10 seconds to unscrew with the tool. Thanks for the video!
Hello ScubaCat3, I have found very few where the cross tee actually broke. This being one and I was fortunate enough to get a hold of it with the channel locks. The spanner usually does the job for me. I found knock off at Home Depot for only a few dollars since I made this video and it works very well. Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Thank you for the tips with wrenches. I had that expensive tool from Home Depot (Husky Drain Removal Tool), but it didn't work in my case because the diameter of my drain was smaller than that tool. After watching your film I took HDX Sink Strainer Lock Nut Wrench, put it inside in folded position and inserted long screwdriver into the small hole next to axes of rotation on that wrench. Believe me or not it turned. Thank you again for the great video.
Hello Olena, You're welcome! A wrench in the middle and something to turn it generally works every time. In this video of course the drain was made of white metal and the cross piece broke. Not all drains are the same size as you now know. This is the reason I made this video using everything, but the spud tool. There are always different ways to remove the spud. I don't think the average homeowner is going to make a purchase of 70 dollars for a tool that they may use only once. I am glad everything worked out for you! Congrats on the repair! Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
This reminds me of the mechanic who removed unfamiliar vacuum lines from my wife's 1970s Chevy because earlier Chevy's didn't have them. He used to hit carburetors with a hammer, that's like using a n open end wrench on a single drain cross to unscrew it. If you receive a "free" foam gasket with a drain flange, the flange is junk. Return the flange and buy a good one that includes a neoprene sealing washer. (If neoprene is good enough to keep water in the tub with the popup valve, it's good enough to seal the drain flange. If a neoprene gasket is missing beneath the tub replace it ALSO. NEVER assume parts provided by a replacement parts maker are superfluous and unrelated to that part. No one gives away stuff. There should be two gaskets on a tub drain. The solid neoprene gasket on top is the seal. Anything beneath acts as a cushion and a secondary seal that won't be needed if a good neoprene seal is the primary seal. Unlike plumbers putty, neoprene will compress, flex, and rebound, not dry out, crack or wash out. When you use plumber's putty underneath that flange the join will fail faster.
I also broke the inside of the drain off. The "spokes" for want of a better word. I hit up UA-cam to see what to do next and as far as I can tell you have the only video that has the answer. Thank you
Hello Luke, You're welcome! Since making this video I have found a knock off tool that will remove the tub drain at a big box store if you can't remove it. Regularly the price of a good tool would run any where from 30 to 50 dollars. The one I found in the big box store was ten. Much more affordable for the average homeowner to purchase considering they may only be using it once...possibly twice. Hopefully you will not have to make the purchase. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the repair! Al
Hello Hunter; You are more then welcome! Many a project don't go as planned so there always has to be a plan B,C,D, etc. LOL! Any luck yet my friend? Thanks for commenting and don't forget to pop a photo! Al
I actually laughed out loud when you started with the open ended wrench. I was like... If this works... I've seen needle nose and linesman pliers work but never saw the wrench trick. Thanks for the video!
Hello K G, You're welcome! I have been using the box end wrench for forty years now. Especially for installing the drains new. Works like a top believe it or not. And of course the drain that I make for the video is made of white metal. You see them very rarely. Generally on basin drains. So when the cross let go in the center...I said to myself...what the heck. Managed to get it out regardless and install a new one. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
@@TheOldkid888 hahaha the luck of the Irish! I just did mine after watching your video one was too afraid to even try the wrench 😂 went with the needle nose. My house is 90 and has a funky drain and couldn't risk damaging any parts as I did not want to open a whole other can of worms trying to buy replacement parts. Cheers and thanks again!
@@cienfuegosperez726 Its called Plumber's Putty, it comes in a small tub. You take it out a piece and roll it between your hands into a long, thin cylinder. Then wrap it around as he showed in the video. Hope that helps!
Hello Jeffthemaintenanceman, Since making this video I found a knock off at one of the big box stores for about ten dollars which makes it much more affordable for the average DIYer than the high end tool. Thanks for the input and have a great weekend! Al
I had to purchase a tub drain removal tool. Luckily the crossbars were not broken on my drain shoe and this tool worked great. The reason I discovered it was so difficult was there was plumbers putty all around and in the threads of the shoe/drain. Great video though, used all your tips. Thank you.
I've seen so many of these videos doing things the hardest, expensive, time consuming, destructive, etc etc etc, ways. Geesh. Rule 2 is don't damage or break what you are working on. Rule 1 is don't do things the hard way and damage or break yourself.
There is a tool made for loosening and tightening spuds. The tool applies equal force to multiple points on the center cross - therefore, much less likely to break the original when removing.
Awesome as always! I usually start at attempt #2 with my 9's. Sometimes I try the screwdriver, but I usually end up grabbing my mini hack saw. The metal they make these out of is like a tin can, once you get a cut started you just peel it away. And as for gasket placement... I've seen it wrong soooo many times with both the drain and overflow. Till the next one. Keep up the good work.
Randy Mathews Hello Randy; Sometimes i will go the plier route first myself all depends on the weather. The material they are made out of is very poor in my books. Should not be allowed to be used really. It is only white metal tht get easily eaten by any kind of water that is acidic or has any amount of minerals in it. You will find the gasket not just on the top of many tubs, but basins as well. People have to realize that there has to be a seal on the bottom side of the fixture. I am a huge putty fan! It has worked very well for me for over 35 years now and that will never change. I have seen several leaks with the foam gaskets and never use them. Thanks for the kind words and have yourself a great weekend! Al
Hello Bass mike62, You're welcome! Hopefully the project goes well for you! HD makes a knock off tub drain wrench for a cheap price as compared to Ridgid. It will definitely help with the repair! Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Even after ten years plumbing, I hate replacing a tub spud. I've had a few in old hotels I've had to cut and fold in on itself. That's a last resort before doing the tub waste&overflow
That you for the video I'm a huge believer in trying to DIY and not paying to have it done plus it's a learning experience for 👍 you explained everything in detail that's Good some other how to video just to the end result lol I'gonna check out your channel bro Thxs again 👍👍🛠🔧
Hello DjSammy B., You're welcome! Since making this video I also have found a knock off of a tub removal tool at the big box stores for under fifteen dollars. It is a tub drain extraction tool. Before that; the price of the tool was not really something that any DIYer would go out and purchase as the price was significantly higher. A dog bone would not have removed this tub drain as it was made of white metal. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Hello teh60; Thanks very much for the kind words! I kept it simple. There are a few wrenches that can make the job easier, but the average home owner won't want to go and purchase one that they will only use perhaps once; so I used the basic tools to get it done. Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Hello Thomas, You're welcome! Glad it worked out for you and congrats on the repair! You just have to be careful whenever using a hacksaw blade for such repairs. They have gotten me out of many a jam. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
The rubber gasket belongs under the tub between the waste connection and the tub bottom. Use plumbers putty on the underside of the male or top part of the drain. Tighten but don't over tighten. Clean away leftover putty from around the inside tub surface. Fill tub with water to the trip waste/overflow. Check for leaks below tub. No leaks...you are done. If you have a leak, drain tub, tighten some more and repeat. you will get there. :-)
Another great how to video.....I guess you were able to push down, on the ABS, (there was some give in it), to get that gasket under it ok, yes?....Thanks Tim.
Timmy Gee Hello Tim; There was just enough movement when I pushed down on the drain to get the gasket underneath although it was tight. I find the gasket misplaced on both tub and basin drains quite often. There has to be a tight seal between the tub and the drain and that is what the gasket makes. Basins are the same way. The gasket has to go underneath, but often is placed on top. Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend! Al
I bet/might have seen, where some small leak, under the tub, goes undetected for years, and slowly rots out the subfloor under the tub.....Then when the tub gets removed during a remodel, then it's Surprise! and more $$$$$$$......
Hello Timmy; You are correct with that statement I have seen it several times myself. It doesn't take a great amount of water to do damage. If a little was to leak through every time someone got a shower; it can create quite a bit of damage over time! Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Hello Inception Plumbing , Putty all the way! I like the fact that it has been around for decades and you have no worries of a leak for years if applied properly. Not a fan of the foam gasket that comes with a lot of the new drains. Not going to take a chance on them. I have repaired a few leaks now where they were installed. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Putty is definitely better than the regular type degradable flat washers. (plus I have a grudge against them for all of the black getting under my nails removing and cleaning up the mess to be ready for replacing)
Hello Peter, Thanks! I hope this helps with any future projects! Since making the video I have found a big box store that has knock off tools to remove the tub drain. I always use a box end wrench for installing them as well. that being said; this would be the first drain that I found which was made of white metal and a soft as butter. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
John Wilson You are more then welcome! If you can get the wrench in the spud it would work for you depending on the wrench. I know Ridgid makes an internal wrench for drains, but if the cross section is in the drain; it will not go into the spud deep enough to get a grip. If the drain is wide open; the internal wrench will work. One company; not sure of the name also makes a tub extraction tool, but I have never seen one in this area. Only read about them. I have been using these methods since I entered the trade and have had good luck every time. I have used several internal wrenches for removing nipples and broken shower arms. They do exactly what they are made for. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Well, I learned that the name of that thing is a "spud"...my son was using bleach in the tub to clean it and didn't rinse so that silver disc rusted and looks absolutely awful...now seeing this video and reading the comments, I highly doubt that I can remove/replace it with a new one before I sell the house. At least I learned something!
+Nancy Crane You may be able to change it out yourself. If it has the cross in the center it is worth a shot by using a box end wrench and a screwdriver. Thanks for commenting. Best of luck with the repair! Al
Hey there....Pre heat the old metal one with a blow dryer and careful with those tools and metal pieces. Lay a towel to not chip in scratch your tub. I am partial to compression rings over those ugly flat black washers or plumber's putty. And petroleum jelly the threads before installing new one.
I'm not sure what the blow dryer is for -- it'll expand something but I'm not sure you want to expand the drain spud when you are trying to loosen it. Is it to expand the hole in the tub? Also, the last time I put the spud in, I used the proper tool to make sure the pliers or wrench did not break the brass cross bars. It may be used once but it'll very much increase your chances of not having to hacksaw or rotozip the spud from the drain. Also, often the spud does not stick up high enough to use a wrench to unscrew the spud so you might have to hacksaw the spud out. But, this is a nice video. Microphone might be useful to improve on audio though. Thx.
Oak Land I have an MIT metallurgical scientist friend who could explain it in geek. And perhaps even in everyday terms. But I've always found that anything, especially metal, that is tight will loosen when warmed up. Making those molecules move around faster, etc etc. If you're familiar with running hot water on a lid to make it open easier? And if you've never heated tight metal bolts/screws/etc to loosen...well I have for a few decades. Many times. WD and other oils help, too. But not like heating. As for spuds, normally the ninny that installed the old one slathered plumber's putty on the threads, also. Right? I've seen many that had that. But if you'd prefer to torque it out risking possibly breaking it or you, have at it. I'm a 122 lb female and I prefer doing it without breaking a fingernail. So do it your way, and may all you screws stay loose
Thank u,for doin things the rite way&I learned something new,about using channel-locks to spin the spud!!!I would normally use a saw-all to cut that thing out!!!Lol!!!
Hello Mario, You're welcome! I try and keep it as simple as possible. The sponge gasket that comes with tub wastes and overflows I don't use. I use only plumber's putty. Has never let me down and its been over forty years. Since making this video I have discovered a knock off tool you can purchase at one of the big box stores that fits into the tub drain. It is very cheap (about 1/8 th the price) as compared to a Rigid tub tool and may help you with your project. I have seen very few tub drains made out of white metal. This is one of them and that was the reason the cross in the drain snapped off so easily. Generally they are stainless steel or brass. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Hello Edmund, Great to hear! I have been using putty for over forty years with no issues. It has always worked for me! Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend! Al
First, I use long needle nose pliers to remove a tub drain. That allows you to go to the outer most edge of the drain "spud" giving you more leverage and lessening the likelihood of breaking it. Second, although it is true that the rubber seal does not belong on the top, it should be mount between the plumbing and the tub below. Third should you have ABS (plastic) drain parts (not recommended), you should not use plumbers putty, but silicon sealer.
Kirkland Washington I have been doing this for over thirty five years and have used putty on every drain without an issue. As far as using the needle nose or pliers when it comes to this type of drain it makes no difference. It is made of white metal and they only last according to the water quality in the home that plays a major part in the longevity of piping and faucets. You obviously haven't removed many as they can be exceptionally tight to remove. Electrical pliers work much better or spanners. Some call for an internal wrench as they can be very tight, but for the most part a spanner or pair of pliers will do the job with a screwdriver for leverage. If you watched the video that is where I placed the gasket. I have used ABS, PVC and Brass on tub drains and if installed properly there are no issues. In this part of the country ABS has been used for decades with no problems. It makes no difference as to what type of piping you are installing as long as it is done correctly... Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
TheOldkid888 This was not intended as a slam. The spanner wrench you used in the video put all the stress on the center of the crosshairs. Why not use a tool that gives you more leverage. That's not to say the results would not have been the same, but I would like to think your odds are better at success. As for the gasket, you may have used it below, but you stated that we should just toss it out. I viewed your video for a perspective on removing a toe tap drain stop. I am dealing with higher end one and your video was helpful in that aspect. Thank You
Hello Kirkland; You are more then welcome! I stated about the foam gaskets and in the video I should have made myself a little more clearer. The drains come with both a rubber gasket and a foam gasket. The rubber one is placed under the tub between it and the drain. They give you the foam gasket to be placed on top instead of putty. I have come across a number of these thin foam gasket that leak shortly after installation. You have no issues when using the putty on the high side of the spud. Sorry if there was a communication problem with that statement that I didn't make clear. I apologize for that. I did state foam gasket. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with your project! Al
Hello tdkdpt, Yes. I placed the old gasket under the tub where it belongs. There was no gasket under the tub. Putty is the only thin I use as sealer between the tub drain and the tub on top. Has never failed me in 42 years! Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Hello Bill, If this should happen to you; you would be looking at replacing the entire waste and waste lines unfortunately. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Can only the bath waste flange be replaced or does the complete unit - bath waste flange, trap and overflow pipe need to be changed alltogether? Are the 70mm flange universal?
Hello Gurjit Dhallu, Yes. Just the part of the bath waste that screws in can be changed with out changing the entire waste. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project! Al
Hello Robert, You're welcome! This is the first spud that I came across that was made of white metal. Most are made of brass ot stainless and the box end wrench generally works. If you have a problem getting it out there is a knock off tub remover tool that I found at a big box store that may help with the spud removal since I made this video. A plumbing wholesale tool would be around $60 plus. The one at the store was only 10, but hopefully the spanner and screwdriver will do the job. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Thank you for the video! I wonder, is there any possibility that the center piece of the spud is broken when trying to remove it, goes down and clogs the drain?
The gasket goes in between the tub and the drain hole it don't belong where the putty goes it just goes underneath the tub between the bottom of the tub and the plumbing pipe so it does not leak.
Hello YVR1975, I am a big fan of putty myself. I have seen a few sink drains where silicone was used and no leaks. I have used putty for over forty years now and haven't had any issues. If it is well kneaded before it is placed on the drain you will have a watertight drain for decades. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
+Trey Christensen This is an O.S and B...They make many different plumbing parts. I hope you get along well with the repair! Thanks for commenting and enjoy the holidays! Al
I had to use a saws-all to remove mine. just make sure it it fully stopped before you remove it from the drain hole. Nothing a little bondo and paint can't fix though....
Hello James, You should always do that with any type reciprocating saw. I learned a hard lesson when I first got into the trade almost 40 years ago. Was cutting out a countertop out for a basin and pulled the saw out while it was moving. Needless to say; it cost me a countertop. Tough lesson, but one I never forgot. Hope the repair went well for you! Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
Hello soulergy1soulrgy1, Good call. They definitely work well for sure. A smart dumb bell or a dog bone is another name for it. I have installed hundreds of tub drains over the years and never saw one made of white metal. As soon as I applied any pressure it broke. Dog bone wouldn't have made a difference on this one. An internal wrench would have worked on it for certain. Luckily enough the it was above the tub just enough to get the channel locks on it which doesn't happen that often. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
You say if I encounter a foam gasket to get rid of it, but it looks like instead of tossing it aside you placed it under the tub floor somehow? What function does it serve?
Hello Bryan, That was not a foam gasket, but the rubber one that helps to make the seal under the tub. The foam one is generally located on top of the tub under the spud. That is where you want to use putty instead of the foam gasket. I have have seen a number of issues with the foam gaskets and plumber's putty has been around for decades with no issues. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
I enjoyed this video. Thank you for making it. Is it critical that I inspect the gasket? (I am assuming that mine is not going to be in the incorrect position like yours was..) On the one hand, I think it would be wise to look at it since the replacement piece I am going to buy comes with a new rubber gasket; on the other hand, I am not confident that I will be able to re-install the gasket nearly as handily as you did.. Also, I saw another video where a gentleman used PTFE tape on the new spud... is that a good idea? I noticed that you omitted that step. Thanks again.
William Andrew Wood If you inspect the gasket by pushing on it and it still feels spongy; it should be good. If you have to replace it; slide it underneath and place a screwdriver through the center of it into the drain. This will prevent losing the gasket under the tub. I have installed hundreds of bath wastes and overflows and have never used teflon on any part of it. If you think about it the gasket makes the seal between the drain and the bottom of the tub and the putty makes the seal between the tub and the spud on the high side. So there is no need to apply teflon, but to each is own. Take your time with it and you should be all set. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project! Al
25 years of plumbing they never come out that easy using the proper tool which is a dog bone. Normally the ring comes out after splitting it with a sawzall and peeling it out, while being careful to not cut the tub. They are usually like welded on. There is a gasket between the shoe and the tub underneath also. You will need a drain kit with a new shoe. Job for a pro normally. If it turns and comes out you are lucky! If it is corroded you are going to replace the tub.
Which stopper is best for bathroom sink? I have a lever stopper now. The faucet I was looking at doesn't have lever. I feel like putting my hands in water to pop up the stopper is a worse idea. Thoughts?
Hello cheese head, Mechanical drains are very popular, but pop up p.o. plugs are also common. You simply push on the top of them to either close or open them. These are easy to install with little to no problems. The old plug and chain is still around, but not the go to on most installations. I prefer mechanical drains myself with the lever. I generally leave that up to the homeowners choice. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
I removed our tub drain about a year ago to run a snake through it because it was clogged up but it is clogged again and the drain is being very stubborn about unscrewing. I'm thinking about putting something on the drain threads this time around. Thinking about teflon tape or Never seize.
Hello Jeff, Hold off on removing the tub drain. I would suggest taking two sink plungers and using one on the drain and the other to plug the overflow. If the second plunger does not cover the overflow; you can use a wet cloth to cover the overflow. I have never removed a tub drain to unclear the line. The plunger should work for you. Big thing is to make sure the overflow is plugged. There is a very good chance the plunger will work for you. You may need someone to cover the overflow. Thanks for commenting and let me know how you get along! Al
i have my drain loose....and have turned it to the left a bunch of times......the drain will keep spinning around but will not come out......im so confused. i just dont get how it can be loose and that i can get it to turn but no matter how many times i turn it it wont come loose.....im so lost....any ideas? thanks
Hello Nick, It should unscrew for you. Turning it counterclockwise should do the job for you. Are you turning the cross in the middle or are you turning the spud on the top? There is a kncok off tool at Home Depot that is relatively cheap and will go into the spud and expand enough for you to turn the spud. I noticed it about a while back. Thanks for commenting and best of lcuk with the repair! Al
Hello Beverly FLores, Are you talking about the connection under the tub or the overflow on the tub itself? Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance....Al
Hello J Khehra, Lots of water down the drain and the overflow. If it continues.....I would fill the tub with water and allow it to reach the overflow and keep it going for a period of time. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Why “putty”?. Would not another rubber gasket work just as well if not better?. Does the putty ever set or harden somewhat?. Isn’t dope so olde-school, tho~?
Hello Casmige, Putty will squeeze out when compressed allowing the spud to almost lay flat on the tub which will allow all the water to drain. It has worked for me for forty years and I have had no problems. I have seen foam gaskets that come with bath wastes and have seen them leak. I never use the foam ones. Putty has always been my go to and I have had no issues. Been around for decades. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Hello L Barrett, Putty is all that I have ever used. Treated me well. I have seen a lot of damage from certain gaskets myself, but the black ones that come with the tub drains must be used under and behind. As far as between the spud and the tub that would be up to the installer whether they use putty or a gasket. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Hello PatriciaMarie100, Turning it counterclockwise will unscrew the tub waste for you! Can be a bit troublesome at times, but it will come out for you with a little elbow grease. Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
But that tool is like a whole $10 and takes away from the excitement of not knowing if your Harbor Freight wrench and screwdriver will snap causing injury and/or damaging the tub.
I bought the tool, but the insides were all rotted out. Nothing for the tool to grab onto. Had to break out the Channel locks. Used them differently than he did. He was lucky someone installed the gasket underneath the spud, otherwise he would not have had the leverage that he did to grab the spud with the channel locks like he did.
Excellent Video as always. What brand of putty do you use - is it regular stainless oil based putty or oil-free non staining Sta Put Ultra Putty? Thanks.
Hello Alex; You are more then welcome! I use Master Plumber .......Stainless Plumber's Putty. It is regular oil base. Not recommended for marble surfaces as it will stain. Yellow stain will show through. I use to use Oatey non staining, but my wholesaler doesn't bring it in any more. I am looking into the Sta Put Ultra. Is it a wholesale product only? Just googled it! May have to order it on line. Thanks for the kind words and have a great week! Al
Hello ck ck, You want to snug it up pretty good. The metal should touch the tub. If doesn't have to be screaming tight. Snug is good. As long as you have the putty under it you should be all set. Thanks for commenting and I hope the project goes well for you! Al
Hi nice video I bought an overflow kit as old one leaked I'm still getting a leak I haven't used any plumbers putty or silicone but used provided washers is this likely why it's leaking ? I need a heads up to have it done tidy until we ge5 a new bathroom suite thanks in the kit it goes sink hole outlet with seal then from under heath seal overflow connected then seal then fastener I did put some ptfe take on thread to try help I would appreciate any help thank you
Hello Kevin, The flat gasket goes on the underside of the tub and plumber's putty is applied around the spud and then threaded into the base of the drain. There is generally two gaskets that come with the bath waste and overflow. The flat one goes under like I had mentioned and the other goes in behind the overflow where it cannot be seen and the face plate pulls the overflow and gasket up against the tub and makes the seal. Both gaskets always go on the outside of the tub. I am saying outside...not where the water is sitting when you get a bath. Some come with a foam gasket and never use them. I always use putty. Have been using it for forty years with no issues. I don't apply any sealant to the threads. simply thread it in and tighten it up. Always knead the putty before applying it. Once it it is soft; I take a good amount and roll it out into a snake like shape about 1/2 an inch thick and wrap it around the spud. Tighten the spud and remove the excess. Never fails. Hope this helps. Remember the gaskets never go on the inside of the tub. Thanks for commenting and I hope your repair goes well for you! Good luck! Al
@@TheOldkid888 thanks mate right so I may have made a mistake on the outlet bit (overflow outlet ) as the washer is tub side as there is a plastic (hard) washer outside of tub so the seal should be other side right ? And putty or silicone on bath side (overflow part )
@@TheOldkid888 btw the spud with the fitting I just fitted don't thread into the bath it has a threaded stem that alltje underside seals and fastener attaches to to keep it in place just thought I'd say so the seal you put on underside of bath I put on thread on underside of bath then overflow attachment then seal then fastener
Hey Kevin, No silicone or sealant tub side on the overflow. The plate that you attach to the overflow will draw the gasket and the overflow tight to the tub on the outside. The gasket makes the seal between the overflow and the tub. The gasket they give with the kit should not be too hard as you want it to make a nice seal. It is very important that the overflow is centered with the hole of the tub and not high or low. Be careful installing a gasket around the overflow as it can drop out of sight quickly and it becomes a game of hidin' seek. Little tip...take a screw driver and slide the gasket over the end of it. slide the end into the overflow. This way if the gasket should drop; the screwdriver will prevent it from dropping to the ceiling or floor behind the tub. Hope this helps! Let me know how you get along! Best of luck! Al
Hello Kevin, You want your gasket under the tub. That's correct. The spud should be smaller than the hole in the tub and that threads into the fitting lined up with the tub hole. Gasket underneath and putty on top. You use the plumber's putty on the spud or plate on top and the excess putty will squeeze out for you. Wish I was your neighbor. Pop over and fire that in for you! Thanks for commenting and let me know how you get along.....Al
Hello L Barrett, I have seen very few bars break over the years, but the one in this tub was made of white metal. Not sure why they would make them like this except to keep the cost of the bath waste down and make a few extra pennies on every one made. Didn't take anything to break this one. They are usually made of stainless steel. The older ones were brass. Someone came up with the idea of white metal. Poor choose. You really can't tell when purchasing them. Shiny and new. I will give the heat a try some time. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Hello johnkramer7993, It could possibly leak on you where the tub drain screws into the piece below especially if the line gets plugged. Best to put it under the tub and use putty on the top side. At least that is how I have done it for over forty years with no issues. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
@@TheOldkid888 I agree if the line backs up. So far no leaks. I really hate to mess with unless it backs up . Apparently it had a whole for years very slow drip while draining.Thanks for ur reply
The suggested way to change the bathtub siphon is wrong. Why? because there is a 50% chance that it will flow when the siphon is joined with the bathtub and when the plastic tubing from the overflowing tub is joined and the siphon is joined with the plastic pipe for draining the tub. 100% correct, remove the bathtub panel and work on changing the siphon under the bathtub, having access to all the joints and connections of the bathtub siphon.
My old tub drain was so rusty that most of the rim fell off. I used the Ridge Internal Wrench, but it didn't work. How can remove the body? I need all your help. Thanks for the tutorial video.
Hello Binh Minh Pham, Did you try an extension on the internal wrench. If the wrench can grip any part of the inside of the spud, an extension piece of pipe should turn the spud for you. The only other thing to do is to take a hacksaw blade holder or just the blade and cut down into the spud putting two saw cuts through the spud. You can then take a straight or common screwdriver and chip that piece out. Once that piece is out continue prying at one side of the spud. It will come out for you like this. I have removed many threaded pieces of pipe out of fittings like this. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the repair. Al
The problem is that the previous installer had put plumber's putty on all the threads, so the drain was very much stuck. When I used the internal wrench, the rim came off, leaving 1/2 of the spud inside the drain. Thank you for the tip with a hacksaw blade.
Hello Binh Minh Pham, The hacksaw blade should work for you although it will take a bit of patience to make the cuts. When installing the new spud, nothing is required on the threads. A little kneaded putty is required around the rim of it as in the video. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the repair! Al
Hello Binh Minh Pham, You're more than welcome! I am glad everything worked out for you! Congrats on the repair! Patience is key when it comes to doing that project! Thumbs up! Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
I bought it and it works good. I would never have got the spud out without it as well use heat to release the plumbers putty otherwise it will be real difficult and most likely will break something
Hello vinodjo2, The product that I put around the spud is called Plumber's putty. It is all that I use on any spuds for tubs and basins. Works very well and any hardware store should carry it. You have to knead it to make it soft and then roll it and apply. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Hello Justin 95, The black rubber gasket that was on top goes on the bottom of the drain. I always use putty on the top myself. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
I would suggest using the proper spud removal tool if you don't want to scratch the tub or your fingers. Luckily this came out easy but if it had been steel threaded into steel and an older house, this guy would have looked foolish with his haywire tools
Use the right tool for the job champ. If you used a tub drain remover wrench it wouldn’t have put so much torque on one side of the metal crossbar and snapped it like you did. Bust since you did that you then resorted to using a channel lock plier, also the wrong tool because nine times out of ten you’re going to scratch the shit out of the porcelain finish on the tub. You need to get a tub drain extractor that goes to the inside of the drain and remove it without marring the tubs surface. My advice is Invest the $10-$15 bucks and do it right the first time. Don’t MacGyver it like this guy.
The only man on UA-cam to accomplish the task without a dedicated removal tool
I can't tell you how grateful I am that you posted this video. I'm a 56 yr old female, and although it took me some time (due to lack of muscle power) I was able to change my own tub drain. Your very helpful tips made a difference between impossible, and possible. Thank you!
+Patricia DelMercado
You are more than welcome!
Sorry I didn't respond until now. Just found your note.
I am glad everything worked out for you!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Mine was frozen in so bad it snapped the pipe out of the T so now my ceiling is apart to do the repair. Every video I watched made it look easy.
Hello Steve,
Sorry tp hear that. It never fails when you think something is going to go easy; it turns out to be a bigger job than it should be. Every now and then I run into an issue such as yours and know that the job has just multiplied in size. Hopefully everything works out for you.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck! Al
I just wanted you to know, that your video was HUGELY helpful. Thank you so much.
Hello Tuzzie,
You're welcome!
That's great to hear!
Hope the project went well for you!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Thank you so much for this video. None of the others I watched demonstrated how to remove the drain plug and their videos were more confusing than anything, too much blabbering. My plug wouldn't just unscrew but finally, thanks to you, I could remove it by the screw on the side that you showed. Now I did have to purchase plumber's putty and a drain remover but so much cheaper than paying hundreds for a plumber.
Hello Jane-Marie,
You're welcome!
I am glad the repair went well for you!
Good call on the plumber's putty! It's the only way to fly. Can never go wrong with it. I have been using it for over forty years and have never had a problem. Little easier with the tool. Since I made this video I discovered a big box store that sells knock offs much much cheaper than the brand names. Hopefully that is the purchase you made.
Regardless, you got the job done!
Congrats on the repair!
Thanks for the kind words and enjoy your week! Al
wow, thank you. I'm so glad to see that you had plan a,b,c, and d, all ready to go. I'll need every one of them and they're very good ideas. If I can't get these to work for me I guess I'll have to buy the $30 tool for single use. Thanks for sharing the wisdom.
Hello Bonk,
You're welcome!
I hope everything goes well for you with the repair!
A new tub drain removal tool of good quality would cost about $55 dollars. Since making this video I saw that Homedepot sells a knock off for about ten dollars. It will get the job done if everything else fails.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the repair! Al
Thanks for this video! I was another one of those with plumber's putty, making it difficult to get the initial "break". However instead of going out and getting the official tool, I simply got a second crescent wrench to place on the opposite cross-piece, slid the screwdriver through both, and with a little bit of determination, it came loose.
Hello Traci,
I am glad it went well for you.
The tool is a few dollars and the average homeowner may only use it once. Nice job with the ingenuity!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
If this stuff was easy, I would not have subscribed to your channel a few years ago.
You have a way to show the tricks that are needed to fix it, when normal repair goes all to hell.
Great job.
Joe Bucci
Hello Joe;
I am glad you subscribed and I appreciate your comments!
Sometimes you run into problems and have a bit of a challenge, but there is always a solution.
There are a few tricks that I have learned over the years that work quite well that I don't mind sharing.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
You can put one pair of pliers handles down into the drain and twist it with another. That'll at least grab it in two spots. I went the $6 for the tool, myself, since I've actually ended up doing this 7 or 8 times for friends and family members. It hasn't failed me yet and takes 10 seconds to unscrew with the tool. Thanks for the video!
Hello ScubaCat3,
I have found very few where the cross tee actually broke. This being one and I was fortunate enough to get a hold of it with the channel locks.
The spanner usually does the job for me.
I found knock off at Home Depot for only a few dollars since I made this video and it works very well.
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Thank you for the tips with wrenches. I had that expensive tool from Home Depot (Husky Drain Removal Tool), but it didn't work in my case because the diameter of my drain was smaller than that tool. After watching your film I took HDX Sink Strainer Lock Nut Wrench, put it inside in folded position and inserted long screwdriver into the small hole next to axes of rotation on that wrench. Believe me or not it turned. Thank you again for the great video.
Hello Olena,
You're welcome!
A wrench in the middle and something to turn it generally works every time. In this video of course the drain was made of white metal and the cross piece broke. Not all drains are the same size as you now know. This is the reason I made this video using everything, but the spud tool. There are always different ways to remove the spud. I don't think the average homeowner is going to make a purchase of 70 dollars for a tool that they may use only once.
I am glad everything worked out for you! Congrats on the repair!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
This reminds me of the mechanic who removed unfamiliar vacuum lines from my wife's 1970s Chevy because earlier Chevy's didn't have them. He used to hit carburetors with a hammer, that's like using a n open end wrench on a single drain cross to unscrew it.
If you receive a "free" foam gasket with a drain flange, the flange is junk. Return the flange and buy a good one that includes a neoprene sealing washer. (If neoprene is good enough to keep water in the tub with the popup valve, it's good enough to seal the drain flange. If a neoprene gasket is missing beneath the tub replace it ALSO.
NEVER assume parts provided by a replacement parts maker are superfluous and unrelated to that part. No one gives away stuff. There should be two gaskets on a tub drain. The solid neoprene gasket on top is the seal. Anything beneath acts as a cushion and a secondary seal that won't be needed if a good neoprene seal is the primary seal. Unlike plumbers putty, neoprene will compress, flex, and rebound, not dry out, crack or wash out. When you use plumber's putty underneath that flange the join will fail faster.
I also broke the inside of the drain off. The "spokes" for want of a better word. I hit up UA-cam to see what to do next and as far as I can tell you have the only video that has the answer. Thank you
Hello Luke,
You're welcome!
Since making this video I have found a knock off tool that will remove the tub drain at a big box store if you can't remove it. Regularly the price of a good tool would run any where from 30 to 50 dollars. The one I found in the big box store was ten. Much more affordable for the average homeowner to purchase considering they may only be using it once...possibly twice.
Hopefully you will not have to make the purchase.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the repair! Al
Thank you!! for us retirees we love the help❤️❤️
Hello Randi Sharp,
You're welcome!
Hopefully the repair goes well for you!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
We did 2 bathrooms so excited to do these things on our own😁 Thank you!!
thanks Al great job as usual. Good to see a repair job that does not go as planed. Also to see the solution.
Hello Hunter;
You are more then welcome!
Many a project don't go as planned so there always has to be a plan B,C,D, etc. LOL!
Any luck yet my friend?
Thanks for commenting and don't forget to pop a photo! Al
I actually laughed out loud when you started with the open ended wrench. I was like... If this works...
I've seen needle nose and linesman pliers work but never saw the wrench trick. Thanks for the video!
Hello K G,
You're welcome!
I have been using the box end wrench for forty years now. Especially for installing the drains new. Works like a top believe it or not. And of course the drain that I make for the video is made of white metal. You see them very rarely. Generally on basin drains. So when the cross let go in the center...I said to myself...what the heck.
Managed to get it out regardless and install a new one.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
@@TheOldkid888 hahaha the luck of the Irish! I just did mine after watching your video one was too afraid to even try the wrench 😂 went with the needle nose. My house is 90 and has a funky drain and couldn't risk damaging any parts as I did not want to open a whole other can of worms trying to buy replacement parts. Cheers and thanks again!
I enjoyed that trick too. Worked real well for me. Thanks!
Thank you for posting this, I thought I didn't have the right tools for this task. But I do have a wrench and a screw driver!
What is the name of the dough you put on it?
@@cienfuegosperez726 Its called Plumber's Putty, it comes in a small tub. You take it out a piece and roll it between your hands into a long, thin cylinder. Then wrap it around as he showed in the video. Hope that helps!
I have ran into this before and nothing worked but then I got this and bam job done Superior Tool 1.5" Tub Drain Extractor works great .
Hello Jeffthemaintenanceman,
Since making this video I found a knock off at one of the big box stores for about ten dollars which makes it much more affordable for the average DIYer than the high end tool.
Thanks for the input and have a great weekend! Al
I had to purchase a tub drain removal tool. Luckily the crossbars were not broken on my drain shoe and this tool worked great. The reason I discovered it was so difficult was there was plumbers putty all around and in the threads of the shoe/drain. Great video though, used all your tips. Thank you.
I've seen so many of these videos doing things the hardest, expensive, time consuming, destructive, etc etc etc, ways. Geesh. Rule 2 is don't damage or break what you are working on. Rule 1 is don't do things the hard way and damage or break yourself.
There is a tool made for loosening and tightening spuds. The tool applies equal force to multiple points on the center cross - therefore, much less likely to break the original when removing.
There is no cross left. I've had the same issue
Even with spud tool they break
Awesome as always! I usually start at attempt #2 with my 9's. Sometimes I try the screwdriver, but I usually end up grabbing my mini hack saw. The metal they make these out of is like a tin can, once you get a cut started you just peel it away. And as for gasket placement... I've seen it wrong soooo many times with both the drain and overflow. Till the next one. Keep up the good work.
Randy Mathews
Hello Randy;
Sometimes i will go the plier route first myself all depends on the weather.
The material they are made out of is very poor in my books. Should not be allowed to be used really. It is only white metal tht get easily eaten by any kind of water that is acidic or has any amount of minerals in it.
You will find the gasket not just on the top of many tubs, but basins as well. People have to realize that there has to be a seal on the bottom side of the fixture.
I am a huge putty fan! It has worked very well for me for over 35 years now and that will never change.
I have seen several leaks with the foam gaskets and never use them.
Thanks for the kind words and have yourself a great weekend! Al
thank you so much. You made it look so easy even I THINK I CAN DO IT!
Dena Nazarchuk-Grantham
You are more then welcome!
Hopefully it will go well for you!
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Thx for posting, very helpful !
Hello Bass mike62,
You're welcome!
Hopefully the project goes well for you!
HD makes a knock off tub drain wrench for a cheap price as compared to Ridgid. It will definitely help with the repair!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Even after ten years plumbing, I hate replacing a tub spud.
I've had a few in old hotels I've had to cut and fold in on itself. That's a last resort before doing the tub waste&overflow
I don't understand why I'm watching this at 1:52am. From CTFxC channel to this..... well at least I learned something before going to bed :).
+Golden skii
Always good to pick up a little info no matter what the time is.
Thanks for commenting and watching!
Enjoy your week! Al
That you for the video I'm a huge believer in trying to DIY and not paying to have it done plus it's a learning experience for 👍 you explained everything in detail that's Good some other how to video just to the end result lol I'gonna check out your channel bro Thxs again 👍👍🛠🔧
Hello DjSammy B.,
You're welcome!
Since making this video I also have found a knock off of a tub removal tool at the big box stores for under fifteen dollars. It is a tub drain extraction tool. Before that; the price of the tool was not really something that any DIYer would go out and purchase as the price was significantly higher.
A dog bone would not have removed this tub drain as it was made of white metal.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Great video Al, that's a good way to replace the drain.
Hello teh60;
Thanks very much for the kind words!
I kept it simple. There are a few wrenches that can make the job easier, but the average home owner won't want to go and purchase one that they will only use perhaps once; so I used the basic tools to get it done.
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
The hacksaw trick works. Thanks for the insight
Hello Thomas,
You're welcome!
Glad it worked out for you and congrats on the repair!
You just have to be careful whenever using a hacksaw blade for such repairs. They have gotten me out of many a jam.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
I thought the video was great Al. Thanks!
Hello Stangtabulous,
You're more than welcome!
Thanks for the kind words and Happy New Year!!
The rubber gasket belongs under the tub between the waste connection and the tub bottom.
Use plumbers putty on the underside of the male or top part of the drain. Tighten but don't over tighten. Clean away leftover putty from around the inside tub surface. Fill tub with water to the trip waste/overflow. Check for leaks below tub. No leaks...you are done. If you have a leak, drain tub, tighten some more and repeat. you will get there. :-)
Hello Michael,
Bang on!
Been doing it that way for forty years with no issues.
Thanks for all the input! Much appreciated!
Have a great week! Al
Another great how to video.....I guess you were able to push down, on the ABS, (there was some give in it), to get that gasket under it ok, yes?....Thanks Tim.
Timmy Gee
Hello Tim;
There was just enough movement when I pushed down on the drain to get the gasket underneath although it was tight. I find the gasket misplaced on both tub and basin drains quite often. There has to be a tight seal between the tub and the drain and that is what the gasket makes. Basins are the same way. The gasket has to go underneath, but often is placed on top.
Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend! Al
I bet/might have seen, where some small leak, under the tub, goes undetected for years, and slowly rots out the subfloor under the tub.....Then when the tub gets removed during a remodel, then it's Surprise! and more $$$$$$$......
Hello Timmy;
You are correct with that statement I have seen it several times myself.
It doesn't take a great amount of water to do damage.
If a little was to leak through every time someone got a shower; it can create quite a bit of damage over time!
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Man I love puddy, it cleans up so nice. I wish they all went that easy.
Hello Inception Plumbing ,
Putty all the way!
I like the fact that it has been around for decades and you have no worries of a leak for years if applied
properly.
Not a fan of the foam gasket that comes with a lot of the new drains. Not going to take a chance on them. I have repaired a few leaks now where they were installed.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
I think I saw a "puddy" cat?
Putty is definitely better than the regular type degradable flat washers. (plus I have a grudge against them for all of the black getting under my nails removing and cleaning up the mess to be ready for replacing)
Fantastic video! I'm definitely taking your advice.
Hello Emmanuel R,
Thanks!
Hopefully the repair goes well for you!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Amazing! Always a great instructor!
Hello Peter,
Thanks!
I hope this helps with any future projects!
Since making the video I have found a big box store that has knock off tools to remove the tub drain. I always use a box end wrench for installing them as well. that being said; this would be the first drain that I found which was made of white metal and a soft as butter.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Enjoyed the video.Thank you.What about using an internal pipe wrench to remove the spud?
John Wilson
You are more then welcome!
If you can get the wrench in the spud it would work for you depending on the wrench.
I know Ridgid makes an internal wrench for drains, but if the cross section is in the drain; it will not go into the spud deep enough to get a grip. If the drain is wide open; the internal wrench will work.
One company; not sure of the name also makes a tub extraction tool, but I have never seen one in this area. Only read about them.
I have been using these methods since I entered the trade and have had good luck every time.
I have used several internal wrenches for removing nipples and broken shower arms. They do exactly what they are made for.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Well, I learned that the name of that thing is a "spud"...my son was using bleach in the tub to clean it and didn't rinse so that silver disc rusted and looks absolutely awful...now seeing this video and reading the comments, I highly doubt that I can remove/replace it with a new one before I sell the house. At least I learned something!
+Nancy Crane
You may be able to change it out yourself. If it has the cross in the center it is worth a shot by using a box end wrench and a screwdriver.
Thanks for commenting.
Best of luck with the repair! Al
Hey there....Pre heat the old metal one with a blow dryer and careful with those tools and metal pieces. Lay a towel to not chip in scratch your tub. I am partial to compression rings over those ugly flat black washers or plumber's putty. And petroleum jelly the threads before installing new one.
I'm not sure what the blow dryer is for -- it'll expand something but I'm not sure you want to expand the drain spud when you are trying to loosen it. Is it to expand the hole in the tub? Also, the last time I put the spud in, I used the proper tool to make sure the pliers or wrench did not break the brass cross bars. It may be used once but it'll very much increase your chances of not having to hacksaw or rotozip the spud from the drain. Also, often the spud does not stick up high enough to use a wrench to unscrew the spud so you might have to hacksaw the spud out. But, this is a nice video. Microphone might be useful to improve on audio though. Thx.
Oak Land
I have an MIT metallurgical scientist friend who could explain it in geek. And perhaps even in everyday terms. But I've always found that anything, especially metal, that is tight will loosen when warmed up.
Making those molecules move around faster, etc etc.
If you're familiar with running hot water on a lid to make it open easier? And if you've never heated tight metal bolts/screws/etc to loosen...well I have for a few decades. Many times. WD and other oils help, too. But not like heating. As for spuds, normally the ninny that installed the old one slathered plumber's putty on the threads, also. Right? I've seen many that had that.
But if you'd prefer to torque it out risking possibly breaking it or you, have at it. I'm a 122 lb female and I prefer doing it without breaking a fingernail.
So do it your way, and may all you screws stay loose
Thank u,for doin things the rite way&I learned something new,about using channel-locks to spin the spud!!!I would normally use a saw-all to cut that thing out!!!Lol!!!
Hello Mario,
You're welcome!
I try and keep it as simple as possible.
The sponge gasket that comes with tub wastes and overflows I don't use. I use only plumber's putty. Has never let me down and its been over forty years.
Since making this video I have discovered a knock off tool you can purchase at one of the big box stores that fits into the tub drain. It is very cheap (about 1/8 th the price) as compared to a Rigid tub tool and may help you with your project.
I have seen very few tub drains made out of white metal. This is one of them and that was the reason the cross in the drain snapped off so easily. Generally they are stainless steel or brass.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Nailed it with the "putty tip. Always use plumbers putty!
Hello Edmund,
Great to hear!
I have been using putty for over forty years with no issues.
It has always worked for me!
Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend! Al
Thank you for the video
Hello Mark,
You're welcome!
Hopefully it helps with any future projects!
Thanks for commenting enjoy your weekend! Al
Thank you! You're awesome.
Hello J Mac,
You're welcome!
Hopefully the project goes well for you!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
First, I use long needle nose pliers to remove a tub drain. That allows you to go to the outer most edge of the drain "spud" giving you more leverage and lessening the likelihood of breaking it. Second, although it is true that the rubber seal does not belong on the top, it should be mount between the plumbing and the tub below. Third should you have ABS (plastic) drain parts (not recommended), you should not use plumbers putty, but silicon sealer.
Kirkland Washington
I have been doing this for over thirty five years and have used putty on every drain without an issue.
As far as using the needle nose or pliers when it comes to this type of drain it makes no difference. It is made of white metal and they only last according to the water quality in the home that plays a major part in the longevity of piping and faucets. You obviously haven't removed many as they can be exceptionally tight to remove. Electrical pliers work much better or spanners. Some call for an internal wrench as they can be very tight, but for the most part a spanner or pair of pliers will do the job with a screwdriver for leverage.
If you watched the video that is where I placed the gasket. I have used ABS, PVC and Brass on tub drains and if installed properly there are no issues.
In this part of the country ABS has been used for decades with no problems.
It makes no difference as to what type of piping you are installing as long as it is done correctly...
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
TheOldkid888 This was not intended as a slam. The spanner wrench you used in the video put all the stress on the center of the crosshairs. Why not use a tool that gives you more leverage. That's not to say the results would not have been the same, but I would like to think your odds are better at success. As for the gasket, you may have used it below, but you stated that we should just toss it out. I viewed your video for a perspective on removing a toe tap drain stop. I am dealing with higher end one and your video was helpful in that aspect. Thank You
Hello Kirkland;
You are more then welcome!
I stated about the foam gaskets and in the video I should have made myself a little more clearer.
The drains come with both a rubber gasket and a foam gasket. The rubber one is placed under the tub between it and the drain. They give you the foam gasket to be placed on top instead of putty. I have come across a number of these thin foam gasket that leak shortly after installation. You have no issues when using the putty on the high side of the spud. Sorry if there was a communication problem with that statement that I didn't make clear. I apologize for that. I did state foam gasket.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with your project! Al
Laughed in the face of removal tools everywhere
So did you just use the old gasket and put it underneath the tub? Did yours now already have a gasket underneath? Thanks for the video.
Hello tdkdpt,
Yes. I placed the old gasket under the tub where it belongs. There was no gasket under the tub. Putty is the only thin I use as sealer between the tub drain and the tub on top. Has never failed me in 42 years!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
What if you break the pipes under the tub? If they're the metal ones?
Hello Bill,
If this should happen to you; you would be looking at replacing the entire waste and waste lines unfortunately.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Great video. Question, what if that thing WILL NOT BUDGE? The shoe (spud, I guess).
Thank you sooooo much for this video. I've just been trying to work out how to remove mine - this is great. Can't wait to get started.
Julie Wood
You are more then welcome!
Best of luck with the project!
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Can only the bath waste flange be replaced or does the complete unit - bath waste flange, trap and overflow pipe need to be changed alltogether? Are the 70mm flange universal?
Hello Gurjit Dhallu,
Yes. Just the part of the bath waste that screws in can be changed with out changing the entire waste.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project! Al
Thanks for the video!
Hello Robert,
You're welcome!
This is the first spud that I came across that was made of white metal. Most are made of brass ot stainless and the box end wrench generally works.
If you have a problem getting it out there is a knock off tub remover tool that I found at a big box store that may help with the spud removal since I made this video. A plumbing wholesale tool would be around $60 plus. The one at the store was only 10, but hopefully the spanner and screwdriver will do the job.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Thanks for the video. It helped me out of a jam
+Sam Hulsey
You are more then welcome!
I am glad everything worked out for you!
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Thank you for this video!
Thank you for the video! I wonder, is there any possibility that the center piece of the spud is broken when trying to remove it, goes down and clogs the drain?
Yes, that is a possibility, a risk you should mitigate with the right tools and techniques.
The gasket goes in between the tub and the drain hole it don't belong where the putty goes it just goes underneath the tub between the bottom of the tub and the plumbing pipe so it does not leak.
Corey Tyndall
That is correct! I always use putty on the high side of the drain.
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
What’s the difference between using plumbers putty to a silicone?
Hello YVR1975,
I am a big fan of putty myself. I have seen a few sink drains where silicone was used and no leaks.
I have used putty for over forty years now and haven't had any issues. If it is well kneaded before it is placed on the drain you will have a watertight drain for decades.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
What brand is the new drain? Definitely interested in replacing my old drain that's broken, this video will help.
+Trey Christensen
This is an O.S and B...They make many different plumbing parts.
I hope you get along well with the repair!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy the holidays! Al
I had to use a saws-all to remove mine. just make sure it it fully stopped before you remove it from the drain hole. Nothing a little bondo and paint can't fix though....
Hello James,
You should always do that with any type reciprocating saw. I learned a hard lesson when I first got into the trade almost 40 years ago. Was cutting out a countertop out for a basin and pulled the saw out while it was moving. Needless to say; it cost me a countertop. Tough lesson, but one I never forgot.
Hope the repair went well for you!
Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
Man get a smart dumbell for tub drains so easy they also work for flushometer toilet spuds
The tool I preferred for this kind of job is called: smart dumb Bell, rather inexpensive and comes in different sizes.
Hello soulergy1soulrgy1,
Good call.
They definitely work well for sure. A smart dumb bell or a dog bone is another name for it. I have installed hundreds of tub drains over the years and never saw one made of white metal. As soon as I applied any pressure it broke. Dog bone wouldn't have made a difference on this one. An internal wrench would have worked on it for certain. Luckily enough the it was above the tub just enough to get the channel locks on it which doesn't happen that often.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Helps if you use the right tool. Drain tub removal wrench at Home Depot...$11.00.
You say if I encounter a foam gasket to get rid of it, but it looks like instead of tossing it aside you placed it under the tub floor somehow? What function does it serve?
Hello Bryan,
That was not a foam gasket, but the rubber one that helps to make the seal under the tub. The foam one is generally located on top of the tub under the spud. That is where you want to use putty instead of the foam gasket. I have have seen a number of issues with the foam gaskets and plumber's putty has been around for decades with no issues.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
I enjoyed this video. Thank you for making it. Is it critical that I inspect the gasket? (I am assuming that mine is not going to be in the incorrect position like yours was..) On the one hand, I think it would be wise to look at it since the replacement piece I am going to buy comes with a new rubber gasket; on the other hand, I am not confident that I will be able to re-install the gasket nearly as handily as you did.. Also, I saw another video where a gentleman used PTFE tape on the new spud... is that a good idea? I noticed that you omitted that step. Thanks again.
William Andrew Wood
If you inspect the gasket by pushing on it and it still feels spongy; it should be good.
If you have to replace it; slide it underneath and place a screwdriver through the center of it into the drain. This will prevent losing the gasket under the tub.
I have installed hundreds of bath wastes and overflows and have never used teflon on any part of it. If you think about it the gasket makes the seal between the drain and the bottom of the tub and the putty makes the seal between the tub and the spud on the high side. So there is no need to apply teflon, but to each is own.
Take your time with it and you should be all set.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project! Al
Awesome vid
Intheevening 123,
Thanks1
Hopefully it will help with any future projects!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
25 years of plumbing they never come out that easy using the proper tool which is a dog bone. Normally the ring comes out after splitting it with a sawzall and peeling it out, while being careful to not cut the tub. They are usually like welded on. There is a gasket between the shoe and the tub underneath also. You will need a drain kit with a new shoe. Job for a pro normally. If it turns and comes out you are lucky! If it is corroded you are going to replace the tub.
Which stopper is best for bathroom sink? I have a lever stopper now. The faucet I was looking at doesn't have lever. I feel like putting my hands in water to pop up the stopper is a worse idea. Thoughts?
Hello cheese head,
Mechanical drains are very popular, but pop up p.o. plugs are also common. You simply push on the top of them to either close or open them. These are easy to install with little to no problems. The old plug and chain is still around, but not the go to on most installations.
I prefer mechanical drains myself with the lever.
I generally leave that up to the homeowners choice.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Yea new tub’s always change out easy try that on a 60 year old brass tub shoe
Nothing yet Al. They have started the wind mill project up there and there a making a racket all day long
Well; I certainly hope something comes into focus for you!
All the best Hunter! Al
thanks a lot! excellent and clear explanation
+gert vleugels
You are more than welcome!
I hope everything goes well for you with your project!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
I removed our tub drain about a year ago to run a snake through it because it was clogged up but it is clogged again and the drain is being very stubborn about unscrewing. I'm thinking about putting something on the drain threads this time around. Thinking about teflon tape or Never seize.
Hello Jeff,
Hold off on removing the tub drain. I would suggest taking two sink plungers and using one on the drain and the other to plug the overflow. If the second plunger does not cover the overflow; you can use a wet cloth to cover the overflow.
I have never removed a tub drain to unclear the line.
The plunger should work for you.
Big thing is to make sure the overflow is plugged. There is a very good chance the plunger will work for you. You may need someone to cover the overflow.
Thanks for commenting and let me know how you get along! Al
@@TheOldkid888 Thank you for the help, I will give that a try and let you know.
i have my drain loose....and have turned it to the left a bunch of times......the drain will keep spinning around but will not come out......im so confused. i just dont get how it can be loose and that i can get it to turn but no matter how many times i turn it it wont come loose.....im so lost....any ideas? thanks
Hello Nick,
It should unscrew for you. Turning it counterclockwise should do the job for you. Are you turning the cross in the middle or are you turning the spud on the top?
There is a kncok off tool at Home Depot that is relatively cheap and will go into the spud and expand enough for you to turn the spud. I noticed it about a while back.
Thanks for commenting and best of lcuk with the repair! Al
How can you tighten a tub stop hole pipe without tearing down the wall?
Hello Beverly FLores,
Are you talking about the connection under the tub or the overflow on the tub itself?
Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance....Al
Hi, my bathtub was broke the clogged with drano.
It is not clogged anymore but stink like heck.any suggestion please
Thanks
Hello J Khehra,
Lots of water down the drain and the overflow.
If it continues.....I would fill the tub with water and allow it to reach the overflow and keep it going for a period of time.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Why “putty”?.
Would not another rubber gasket work just as well if not better?.
Does the putty ever set or harden somewhat?.
Isn’t dope so olde-school, tho~?
Hello Casmige,
Putty will squeeze out when compressed allowing the spud to almost lay flat on the tub which will allow all the water to drain. It has worked for me for forty years and I have had no problems. I have seen foam gaskets that come with bath wastes and have seen them leak. I never use the foam ones. Putty has always been my go to and I have had no issues. Been around for decades.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Putty over those black flat gaskets/washers. Last-forever compression rings don't degrade...seen damage from too many of the old gaskets leaking.
Hello L Barrett,
Putty is all that I have ever used. Treated me well.
I have seen a lot of damage from certain gaskets myself, but the black ones that come with the tub drains must be used under and behind.
As far as between the spud and the tub that would be up to the installer whether they use putty or a gasket.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Thought right was tight and left loose? Which way do I turn this To remove?
Hello PatriciaMarie100,
Turning it counterclockwise will unscrew the tub waste for you!
Can be a bit troublesome at times, but it will come out for you with a little elbow grease.
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
For the love of God, buy the correct removal tool. I used channel locks and chipped the paint on tub accidentally.
But that tool is like a whole $10 and takes away from the excitement of not knowing if your Harbor Freight wrench and screwdriver will snap causing injury and/or damaging the tub.
the correct removal tool will cost you a lot . so my advice to you ask somebody to fix it .
The correct tool cost $10 at lowes.
I bought the tool, but the insides were all rotted out. Nothing for the tool to grab onto. Had to break out the Channel locks. Used them differently than he did. He was lucky someone installed the gasket underneath the spud, otherwise he would not have had the leverage that he did to grab the spud with the channel locks like he did.
His tools got the job done. Looks like they were the right tools to me.
Excellent Video as always.
What brand of putty do you use - is it regular stainless oil based putty or oil-free non staining Sta Put Ultra Putty?
Thanks.
Hello Alex;
You are more then welcome!
I use Master Plumber .......Stainless Plumber's Putty. It is regular oil base.
Not recommended for marble surfaces as it will stain. Yellow stain will show through.
I use to use Oatey non staining, but my wholesaler doesn't bring it in any more.
I am looking into the Sta Put Ultra. Is it a wholesale product only?
Just googled it! May have to order it on line.
Thanks for the kind words and have a great week! Al
That was one of my questions. Thanks
Thanks for the help! Great video.
Hello Patrick,
You are welcome!
Hopefully it will help with ahy future projects!
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Do you plan on making more videos? Is there a reason you stopped?
good video
Hello Jerin Biju
Thanks!
Hopefully it will help with any future project!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
I broke the drain in my parents house so now I know how to cover my ass
Hello Sunflower_Babe,
I hope the repair goes well for you!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
how tight do u need it to be - it looks like u went pretty hard
Hello ck ck,
You want to snug it up pretty good. The metal should touch the tub. If doesn't have to be screaming tight. Snug is good.
As long as you have the putty under it you should be all set.
Thanks for commenting and I hope the project goes well for you! Al
They also make a tool to take it out might not of broke but glade it came out with Chanel locks
Hi nice video I bought an overflow kit as old one leaked I'm still getting a leak I haven't used any plumbers putty or silicone but used provided washers is this likely why it's leaking ? I need a heads up to have it done tidy until we ge5 a new bathroom suite thanks in the kit it goes sink hole outlet with seal then from under heath seal overflow connected then seal then fastener I did put some ptfe take on thread to try help I would appreciate any help thank you
Hello Kevin,
The flat gasket goes on the underside of the tub and plumber's putty is applied around the spud and then threaded into the base of the drain. There is generally two gaskets that come with the bath waste and overflow. The flat one goes under like I had mentioned and the other goes in behind the overflow where it cannot be seen and the face plate pulls the overflow and gasket up against the tub and makes the seal. Both gaskets always go on the outside of the tub. I am saying outside...not where the water is sitting when you get a bath.
Some come with a foam gasket and never use them. I always use putty. Have been using it for forty years with no issues. I don't apply any sealant to the threads. simply thread it in and tighten it up.
Always knead the putty before applying it. Once it it is soft; I take a good amount and roll it out into a snake like shape about 1/2 an inch thick and wrap it around the spud. Tighten the spud and remove the excess. Never fails.
Hope this helps. Remember the gaskets never go on the inside of the tub.
Thanks for commenting and I hope your repair goes well for you!
Good luck! Al
@@TheOldkid888 thanks mate right so I may have made a mistake on the outlet bit (overflow outlet ) as the washer is tub side as there is a plastic (hard) washer outside of tub so the seal should be other side right ? And putty or silicone on bath side (overflow part )
@@TheOldkid888 btw the spud with the fitting I just fitted don't thread into the bath it has a threaded stem that alltje underside seals and fastener attaches to to keep it in place just thought I'd say so the seal you put on underside of bath I put on thread on underside of bath then overflow attachment then seal then fastener
Hey Kevin,
No silicone or sealant tub side on the overflow. The plate that you attach to the overflow will draw the gasket and the overflow tight to the tub on the outside. The gasket makes the seal between the overflow and the tub. The gasket they give with the kit should not be too hard as you want it to make a nice seal. It is very important that the overflow is centered with the hole of the tub and not high or low.
Be careful installing a gasket around the overflow as it can drop out of sight quickly and it becomes a game of hidin' seek. Little tip...take a screw driver and slide the gasket over the end of it. slide the end into the overflow. This way if the gasket should drop; the screwdriver will prevent it from dropping to the ceiling or floor behind the tub.
Hope this helps!
Let me know how you get along!
Best of luck! Al
Hello Kevin,
You want your gasket under the tub. That's correct.
The spud should be smaller than the hole in the tub and that threads into the fitting lined up with the tub hole. Gasket underneath and putty on top.
You use the plumber's putty on the spud or plate on top and the excess putty will squeeze out for you.
Wish I was your neighbor. Pop over and fire that in for you!
Thanks for commenting and let me know how you get along.....Al
Thank you
Hello Marcelino Ramos,
You're welcome!
Hopefully the project goes well for you!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Removal tool? 'Okay hold my beer'
Just to add, heating before trying to remove makes simple tools needed, cross bar unlikely to break since all warmed up loosens it.
Hello L Barrett,
I have seen very few bars break over the years, but the one in this tub was made of white metal. Not sure why they would make them like this except to keep the cost of the bath waste down and make a few extra pennies on every one made.
Didn't take anything to break this one. They are usually made of stainless steel. The older ones were brass. Someone came up with the idea of white metal. Poor choose.
You really can't tell when purchasing them. Shiny and new.
I will give the heat a try some time.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
What to heat and what did you heat it with
well done
What if u didn’t put gasket under tub? I put on top
Hello johnkramer7993,
It could possibly leak on you where the tub drain screws into the piece below especially if the line gets plugged.
Best to put it under the tub and use putty on the top side. At least that is how I have done it for over forty years with no issues.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
@@TheOldkid888 I agree if the line backs up. So far no leaks. I really hate to mess with unless it backs up . Apparently it had a whole for years very slow drip while draining.Thanks for ur reply
with right tools this job can be nicer and faster.
really helpful thanks for posting
The suggested way to change the bathtub siphon is wrong.
Why? because there is a 50% chance that it will flow when the siphon is joined with the bathtub and when the plastic tubing from the overflowing tub is joined and the siphon is joined with the plastic pipe for draining the tub.
100% correct, remove the bathtub panel and work on changing the siphon under the bathtub, having access to all the joints and connections of the bathtub siphon.
My old tub drain was so rusty that most of the rim fell off. I used the Ridge Internal Wrench, but it didn't work. How can remove the body? I need all your help. Thanks for the tutorial video.
Hello Binh Minh Pham,
Did you try an extension on the internal wrench. If the wrench can grip any part of the inside of the spud, an extension piece of pipe should turn the spud for you.
The only other thing to do is to take a hacksaw blade holder or just the blade and cut down into the spud putting two saw cuts through the spud. You can then take a straight or common screwdriver and chip that piece out. Once that piece is out continue prying at one side of the spud. It will come out for you like this. I have removed many threaded pieces of pipe out of fittings like this.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the repair. Al
The problem is that the previous installer had put plumber's putty on all the threads, so the drain was very much stuck. When I used the internal wrench, the rim came off, leaving 1/2 of the spud inside the drain. Thank you for the tip with a hacksaw blade.
Hello Binh Minh Pham,
The hacksaw blade should work for you although it will take a bit of patience to make the cuts.
When installing the new spud, nothing is required on the threads. A little kneaded putty is required around the rim of it as in the video.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the repair! Al
Following your advice, I was able to pry off the rest of the old drain spud with a hacksaw blade and install a new one. Thank you, teacher Al
Hello Binh Minh Pham,
You're more than welcome!
I am glad everything worked out for you! Congrats on the repair!
Patience is key when it comes to doing that project!
Thumbs up!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
home depot sells a tool for this and not even expensive
I bought it and it works good. I would never have got the spud out without it as well use heat to release the plumbers putty otherwise it will be real difficult and most likely will break something
What is that white stuff around the cap ? Where can I get it ?
Hello vinodjo2,
The product that I put around the spud is called Plumber's putty. It is all that I use on any spuds for tubs and basins.
Works very well and any hardware store should carry it. You have to knead it to make it soft and then roll it and apply.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
that gasket is for the bottom of the tub..
Hello Justin 95,
The black rubber gasket that was on top goes on the bottom of the drain.
I always use putty on the top myself.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Your right guy, but do u know how many people will put it there over instead of under the bottom
@@TheOldkid888 i use 100% silicone , it will last almost a life time
I would suggest using the proper spud removal tool if you don't want to scratch the tub or your fingers. Luckily this came out easy but if it had been steel threaded into steel and an older house, this guy would have looked foolish with his haywire tools
Where's ur tub tool
Use the right tool for the job champ. If you used a tub drain remover wrench it wouldn’t have put so much torque on one side of the metal crossbar and snapped it like you did. Bust since you did that you then resorted to using a channel lock plier, also the wrong tool because nine times out of ten you’re going to scratch the shit out of the porcelain finish on the tub. You need to get a tub drain extractor that goes to the inside of the drain and remove it without marring the tubs surface. My advice is Invest the $10-$15 bucks and do it right the first time. Don’t MacGyver it like this guy.
Thanks a lot bro! Great video!
+copievillamaria
You are more than welcome!
Thanks for the kind words and have yourself a great week! Al
Yaaawwwesomeee
Hello Kyle,
Thanks!
Hopefully it helps with any future projects!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
why dont u get the proper tool for that