Beautiful work Livyu! I had a horrible day at work, was super stressed and then I watched this and somehow all my stress and worries melted away. Thank you for a moment of instant zen!
A mi parecer está bien si no hay el stencil pero sería mejor con una plancha con la que quitas y pones led y más seguro que no se vuelan la bolitas con la pistola de aire
this sort of thing depends on the station (air flow will be different and temperature is not always calibrated the same. can even lose calibration after a while) The best thing is to get a scrap board of ebay or something and practise it yourself. That way if you rip a pad or something you won't lose anything important, and you will understand which air flow is low enough and which temp is right. I use a BST863 which is a knockoff of the 861 DW (but everything is very similar) and my findings have been different of someone with an actual 861dw, so it's important to try and find out with your own station.
I tried doing this on a PowerPC processor from a powerbook g4. I put ALL of the solder balls on by hand with tweezers which only took me about an hour but when I got to the end of it I started to slowly heat up the chip and on a low heat setting but the solder balls just keep coming off. Wasted my time and effort doing that 😡. And I DID apply flux before putting the solder balls on, and I spread it all around the bottom of the chip but it made no difference. I was also keeping my heat gun a big distance apart, but when I heated up the chip, the solder balls don't stick to the pads!!!! What am I doing wrong?
airspeed needs to be low enought so that it will not push the balls... and put air from up top so that any force it puts on the balls are from the top.
@LivyuFPV I'm using a heat gun with only two heat settings: low and high. It has a max temperature of 600 degrees celsius. I don't have hot air station.
Thank you so much for this method. Unfortunately, this method is quite time consuming especially if the BGA IC chip is a 153 that I'm trying to solder on properly and onto the board. It's also going to be even more time consuming if you aren't using a quality flux; cheap flux will not help you with this method unless you do research on their effectiveness. I'm using SRA flux #135. It's a great flux that can easily flow the solder balls even at the lowest Air speed with a relative temperature of at least 350 °C. Just confirming that a quality flux will make the job easier for this method on your behalf. I tried a different method by flooding the whole IC with flux in liquid form AFTER putting all of solder balls on. In my practice, you can move the solder balls by periodically heating the IC and the flux; this way you won't lose any solder balls unless tension from the tweezers are being heated where the solder balls can climb up on the edges of the tweezers. You need to keep the tweezers as close as you can to the IC where the flux is being heated where you have a low chance of loosing them in between the tweezers; if so, you just need to clean the tweezers and grab a new solder ball.
@@LivyuFPV You can buy universal stencil matching the grid size and pour the balls. It easily less time to arrange the balls because all the balls already near the pads
@@C_2n876 forsho stencil is the easy version... but if you ever need to fix something fast! And cant wait for stencil then you have this... or even worst iron made balls :p
Beautiful work Livyu! I had a horrible day at work, was super stressed and then I watched this and somehow all my stress and worries melted away. Thank you for a moment of instant zen!
Explained my feelings too
Precision of a deity - even after 6 years of practice I still can’t clean up as nicely as you - your reworking is absolutely insane 🙃
right!
Change flux. Bad flux u have...
Can i do the same thing? I want to reball a gddr5 memeory. I dont have a stencil, and its my first time doing a reball
You gave me the confidence to repair a USB port. Works great! Now to replace the USB port that got ripped from my flight controller.
With H7 BGA chips coming. I think it's time I learn this too. Great Work !
WOW!!! Thats is trully amazing!!! And always 1 last ball is out of the line! ;)))
6:35-6:45... That’s some crazy visual ASMR man 🤣🤣🤣
a lot of people who are into FPV also get into electronics repair and vice versa. It's cool
On my part I was an electronics guy all my life :p started rc 15 years ago
I like to use this technique but I use a pipette , poor on the solder balls, and separate them with a probe needle. light flux, 250 reflow.
I'm speechless, that was awesome !
I don't know what that is, but you always grab my attention!!!
A mi parecer está bien si no hay el stencil pero sería mejor con una plancha con la que quitas y pones led y más seguro que no se vuelan la bolitas con la pistola de aire
Nice! Have you tried a soldering skillet/soldering plate? They’re great mostly for initial builds, but in situations like this they’re awesome too
Mesmerizing.
Nice job Livyu!
how many mm solder ball did you use? and what is the air and temperature setting?
this sort of thing depends on the station (air flow will be different and temperature is not always calibrated the same. can even lose calibration after a while)
The best thing is to get a scrap board of ebay or something and practise it yourself. That way if you rip a pad or something you won't lose anything important, and you will understand which air flow is low enough and which temp is right. I use a BST863 which is a knockoff of the 861 DW (but everything is very similar) and my findings have been different of someone with an actual 861dw, so it's important to try and find out with your own station.
which PCB was that in the end? cmon, we are still waiting :)
I tried doing this on a PowerPC processor from a powerbook g4. I put ALL of the solder balls on by hand with tweezers which only took me about an hour but when I got to the end of it I started to slowly heat up the chip and on a low heat setting but the solder balls just keep coming off. Wasted my time and effort doing that 😡. And I DID apply flux before putting the solder balls on, and I spread it all around the bottom of the chip but it made no difference. I was also keeping my heat gun a big distance apart, but when I heated up the chip, the solder balls don't stick to the pads!!!! What am I doing wrong?
airspeed needs to be low enought so that it will not push the balls... and put air from up top so that any force it puts on the balls are from the top.
@LivyuFPV I'm using a heat gun with only two heat settings: low and high. It has a max temperature of 600 degrees celsius. I don't have hot air station.
@maxplayz1219 then... don't bother it will not work, unfortunately.
what ball size do I need for iphone repair?
I think can follow your steps with small chip but with larg chip, so need more more time to complete process. Good job
This was a one time job for myself. Other wise a stencil would be way faster :)
Thank you so much for this method. Unfortunately, this method is quite time consuming especially if the BGA IC chip is a 153 that I'm trying to solder on properly and onto the board. It's also going to be even more time consuming if you aren't using a quality flux; cheap flux will not help you with this method unless you do research on their effectiveness. I'm using SRA flux #135. It's a great flux that can easily flow the solder balls even at the lowest Air speed with a relative temperature of at least 350 °C. Just confirming that a quality flux will make the job easier for this method on your behalf.
I tried a different method by flooding the whole IC with flux in liquid form AFTER putting all of solder balls on. In my practice, you can move the solder balls by periodically heating the IC and the flux; this way you won't lose any solder balls unless tension from the tweezers are being heated where the solder balls can climb up on the edges of the tweezers. You need to keep the tweezers as close as you can to the IC where the flux is being heated where you have a low chance of loosing them in between the tweezers; if so, you just need to clean the tweezers and grab a new solder ball.
What exact flux and solder do you use?
Please tell me what is your flux name😬😬
Its very slow if you must pickup the tiny ball one by one. Instead you can spread all ball on pads and arrange it from there
Well the easiest onr would be stencil and paste... but I just wante to loose some tine I guess :p
@@LivyuFPV You can buy universal stencil matching the grid size and pour the balls. It easily less time to arrange the balls because all the balls already near the pads
very good job! What kind and size of solder balls did you use?
have you tried 3d printing stencils?
Really well done!
how many mm soldering balls are
Great work. Thank you
Solder balls size also 0.8mm?
Wonderful how did u make balls
Please show me
Balls can be ordered in different sizes ;l
@@LivyuFPV what is name
I want order for it
@@LivyuFPV please how can I know the size of the ball
The cpu is spd 6531e
I want replace on mobile phone
Teach me please
Hi. What do you use to clean off flux residue?
Normally isopropyl alcohol
Amazing work
nice job man
Wow very nicely done!
Did you get a P1 IC?
nope :) that one had waaaaaaaaay more pads :P
Nice Job!
Your eyes CCD camera placement die bonding machine 👍
Good job 👍
Oh been there, done that
when we dont have any service , we can try this type , for making time pass
I need video how to reball without those little balls. 😀
Well that's my OCD (obsessive compulsive disorder) fixed.
You are one crazy ....
Do it on 450 pin ic . I am sure you will never do it again.
I am gonna have a punt on shark byte lol
I fu&*** stay 2 hiurs with 5 pins damn he make it looke easy every one watch the video just go buy a standard stencil
@@C_2n876 forsho stencil is the easy version... but if you ever need to fix something fast! And cant wait for stencil then you have this... or even worst iron made balls :p
Not very practical for high pin counts.
Poor's man reballing
long time
good try
😂😂😂😂😂
Ribet banget 😅
Best patience 💪 wow
Exchange visit😜wow y2y 😜