Its so nice to see a machinist demonstrate the skill required to accurately operate a machine tool. It seems that so many people on UA-cam are under the impression that the most difficult part of machining components is deciding which Haas machine to order. As a machinist with 40+ years of experience in dealing with odd ball jobs and set ups like this (manual and CNC), its refreshing to see that you take the time to give a glimpse into the skill and experience required to produce parts. Holding tolerance, dealing with run out, addressing chatter, ect doesn't usually happen as a result of inputting simple line of G code or adaptive roughing cycle. You demonstrate all of the things that become part of the true machinists knowledge base. CNC's have revolutionized the trade but it still requires the skill of a craftsman to finesse these machines into submission. Great Video Peter.
I like these deep dives you do on things like hydraulic steady rests. A lot of these things I know about but never really thought about the reason why. Another of my favorite things you talk about is weird things that happen when indicating parts, and traps that you can fall into when you think you've indicated a part well but actually haven't. I could watch a whole video series about stuff like that. Books rarely ever talk about these more advanced concepts and Old Timers just know them instinctively so don't think about them, and rarely ever think to pass that knowledge on, and the quality of trade schools in general, specifically machinist programs, have really taken a dump in the last 20 years on average, so there's a lot of apprentices who barely even learn the basics.
Man, I don't know where you're from, but I'm a mature age machining apprentice in Australia, and the trade school quality is less than worthless where I am. I'm genuinely considering just buying some of my own machines and teaching myself because I feel it must be a better idea at this point.
@@benwilms3942 I am not sure what the situation's like down under but here in the US it's still possible to find good programs around, you just need to search. Unfortunately most kids don't know what to look for, not that they could be expected to.
@ Ben Wilms, I basicly agree with you but it will cost you a lot of money to effectively set up a competent workshop. Which part of our great nation are you?
Ive been doing custom machining since i was 14 and now 42 and ran , set up and always did my own programming (hand programming at control) and i still learn things all the time! Especially with the new HSM! I developed my own ways to HSM by simply using incremental moves in a sub program and repeating them with a incremental move in each time with these crazy new 5 flutes that we get to play with now!
Keep it up peter! You actually teach MORE then titan! Hahhaha! People need to also see that a 1 piece 20 thousand dollar casting or part does not require 800 inches a minute but extreme accuracy! Keep it up bud! I love your videos! I was thinking about making a mazak mill conversational how to video broken up from easiest to more complex geometry part programming explaining all off the conversational units definitions and what every question the machine asks for really means. And tips and tricks to accurately program and set your tools and probing programming techniques and etc. Since I'm a mill guy i would absolutely LOVE if you would do the same with the multi axis lathe! YOU DA MAN!!!
I don’t want to criticize Titan but not everyone has a unlimited budget or machine tooling and machine tool sponsorship. We just have to work with what we have or can afford. Remember this. It’s not the fastest speeds and feeds that get the job done. It the consistent and reliable methods that work the best.
Very good points about not putting undue stress and vibration into a part because of improper setup. I see lots of cnc operators that think the machine takes care of everything and it automatically spits out perfect parts. Turns out you still have top be a machinist if you want good parts particularly the bigger the parts the more prone to errors.
@@jimsvideos7201 I believe tool wear is calculated and compensated for. As I've said to the YTer, that machine should be using lasers to measure and position the work - to get it running true and finished to correct size !!!
@@millomweb It think that specific machine is a bit old (not that there's anything wrong with old machines mind you) so at the time perhaps optical measurement was not available or too pricy ?
Hey Peter you've learned me something I never knew. I've never seen it or heard about it on any big UA-cam channels. I think it deserves a bigger mention. "Hydraulic chucks" coming loose. We all know the danger involved there. Is this a standard teaching to the young apprentices? Someone should make a warning video... preferably you.
Every chuck will loose a lot of force when turning too fast. In manual machining this problem appears very rarely, because often you can't even come close to those RPM's. But one of the first things you want to program in a CNC-lathe is the max rpm, which you need to limit almost every time.
Holey moley! I see what David means about trepanning. It would have saved a pantload of machining on this part not to mention a huge piece of material that wasn't turned into chips.
I usually use 4-jaw chucks at both ends of the part and when it's ready to put the steady rest on, I use 2 indicators to make sure the part stays in the center. One in the X direction and the other one in the Y direction. If it's not in the center, I have to adjust my steady rest.
I have watched edge precision videos for 3 years now I believe he has reached the balance between professional machinist and regulars who are interested in machining. Face it sometimes there is nothing like watching a machine RUN.
Great to see a post from you again. You are a true machinist and SME. Brings back a lot of memories in my previous role. I started my engineering manufacturing career as a Turner Machinist apprentice in South Africa in the mid 90's. All manual machines and remember the first CNC mill and Lathe I got trained on by Artisans that had served there time. I emigrated to Ireland as a CNC programmer later done my degree in Mechanical Engineering followed by another in Mechatronics. I miss doing what you do.... being up close with the machines.
@@TexDrinkwater Agree. UA-cam has really messed up their platform over the past couple months. But, alas, I'll be sticking with UA-cam till another platform becomes more reliable and more of my favorite channels appear there!
Thanks peter, as someone trying to become god tier at turning, lessons like these are hard learned. When I first started doing medium l/d ratio shafts that needed to held near the chuck by the stead rest, i was terrified when I actually put an indicator on the rest and realised how much the part was moving the chuck.
A Good show of the saying. "Everything is flexing" 😁👍 nice vidoe Peter. People think just because its cnc it just makes perfect parts and No craftman ship i needed.
Its easy to get bogged down with trying to achieve perfection. When you have the equipment (Clocks, DTIs capable of showing the run out) then we chase until we make it perfect. I do that too. When in reality we are already exceeding the drawing tolerances. But hey? We wouldn't be happy any other way!
hah... you know what would have been amazing in hindsight Peter? If you did a split screen with one camera on the controller and we could see all the stuff you do off-camera on the controller. Just for us Noobs to mazak. Best, Dan Post Script: I love your videos, and I wish I worked for you so I could learn from you.
At first I thought stress.... as you may have seen in my dancing steady rest.... but no. I didn't know those chuck jaws could come loose with high revs but I understand how now. That's worrying and maybe why there's lots of videos on CNC crash.
Yes a hydraulic chuck can loosen with speed. Especially with heavy jaws. That why most parts are thrown out on facing cuts with constant surface speed activated and no speed limit in the program.
WOW! Nobody screaming about hammering on a part with the indicator touching. I always wonder how much more time those people take to keep lifting the indicator off while they pound away not knowing how much anything is moving. As far as hammers, I use my 3lb stubby steel with an aluminum block when a plastic dead-blow can handle things. We don't have lead in the shop because it scares the office people. They're afraid that us troglodytes out in the shop will chew on it.
Great video 👍 Pete you could describe the run-out as a taper effect the more run-out from the chuck X by the length the shaft the greater the run-out .
@@ehamster I used to watch him (titan) but now he REALLY annoys me! Unlimited budget etc. Very impressive feeds and speeds on milling hard materials but he never seems to be drilling holes or tapping those same materials. 🤔
Oh hi, I like your videos really much. We have 3 Wfl multi cutting machines in our shop and we have almost the same chucks. If the chuck is centered correctly, you shouldn´t have any runout (
There is a manual 4-jaw chuck on my machine. Also the end of the raw stock is just saw cut. Or in other words not square. If I was to extend the tail center to the part. This would force that out of square face up against the jaws throwing everything out of square. No the steady rest is better to center it. For the purpose of this video I was demonstrating the forces on the steady rest by a part not running true. In reality I would chuck the part running in the steady rest. Get it running true at the chuck. Than open the steady rest. Skim a true running band for the rollers to run on. Than close the steady rest and proceed with the machine work . Like I said I wanted to demonstrate what forces were on the steady if you didn’t skim a true running band or didn’t hammer the part true at that end. As I did in the video. Hope that makes sense. Thanks.
This was super helpful I have had that problem with steady rest before. The way you indicated the center of the part with the interapid Indicator, I know you had explained it on another video before, can you tell me what video that was or can you explain it again please?
That is another way. I do do that sort of thing on longer parts. I sort of get it running true. Than press the tail canter with light pressure. just enough to skim a steady band.
@@EdgePrecision yes, we do exactly the same thing, anything just to give it a little bit of support while you are skimming, sometimes even just a thick washer to press against the front face with the tailstock... in Scotland we called it jam Turning, lol
The actual programming doesn't take a lot of time. What takes time is deciding what tooling you intend to use. Than making sure you have that tooling or ordering it. Sometimes in a shop you know you have a tool but just can't find it. Believe me I have spend a lot of time on this. I need to get better organized. Than to set all those tools up. Than carefully run them for the first time without breaking/destroying them. This is where the combination of correct programming and setup comes in.
could you have gone from the tailstock to steady rest and it be true had you not taken the part out. if so. why did you take the part out and not finish the parts one at a time? i dont know why you would or wouldnt, im just curious.
You would I guess have less of this problem when rough turn the material that gets chucked first: then you would have less problems with the steady rest when rechucking later on. And add that notch right at the beginning?
SMW Autoblok the maker of your steady rest also manufactures some nice quick change hidraulic chucks that have a longer jaw stroke than Kitagawa. Maybe change to them to ease your work.
The chip guards on my SMW Autoblok steadyrest are not like yours. Did you modify something there to give better chip protection. The Mazak 650 I run has a bad problem with getting chips in the rollers there. No matter what I’ve tried.
I just added some 1/8 red silicone sheet to wipe chips off on the two upper arms. As you can see in the video. They help but don’t keep everything out. So when that’s critical I cut the bottom out of a empty 5 gal pail. Than cut a snug fitting hole to fit the part. Shove that up against the arms on both sides. That in combination with the silicon wipers will keep almost everything out.
You need to float the steady rests in from time to time with a test piece. I do these a lot in the field and between a little twist in the beds and the steady moving a little it's a lot to keep track of.
Yes, I almost prefer the manual type. They don't really look the same as those on a manual engine lathe. (Maybe I should show one in a video.) They use them here on the Mazak slant 50 lathes here). You can adjust each arm individually and get just the right pressure on each roller. for more delicate turning they are really nice.
@@benwilms3942 Actually there's a bit of a process to it, perhaps longer than needed but everything is perfectly concentric when finished. We put the rough stock in V blocks on the horizontal like he has, mill the stock to length, drill a lathe center spot in each end and drill and tap the holes in each end. In the lathe we chuck on a piece of material and turn a 60deg taper like the center in the tail stock. We mill slots 180deg apart in that material. We then put cap head bolts in the tapped holes in the end that goes into the chuck with the machined center adapter. The heads of the bolts engage with the slots milled to drive the material like a lathe dog. The other end is held by the live center of the tail stock. Rough out the entire part and remove for stress relief. Reinstall the part between centers and finish. Let me be clear, I'm not saying what he's doing is wrong, I'm just saying what we do where I work. Many ways to skin a cat!
@@justinl.3587 no shit! That cap head driver idea is awesome! I'm assuming you can turn and mill in the one machine then. And obviously you dont need to face turn the part (unless I'm missing something...). Thanks man.
Thank you Peter, another interesting and informative video, I myself am amazed as to just what modern machine's can do. In using the hydraulic steady rest, there must be running clearances in all the individual parts that eventually add up. However, not all clearances are or can be equal upon each and every part as to also the wear through out the assembly and must vary from part to part. Could this be or may this contribute to the variation if very minor with the end of the component running out Maybe this is where a more fixed(an adjustable screw) steady comes into its own??
On some of the machines here they do have manual type steady rests on a CNC machine. But they are very different looking than the ones on a manual lathe.
When do you worry about the spindle bearings whacking the part with a hammer? I’m sure the Mazak will tolerate some dead blow action, but I’d have thought much bigger and you’d risk damaging the bearings.
Any opportunities coming up to show the 'other ways' you mentioned at 5:25, where you can't open the steady rest because of part weight or length? Thanks again for sharing your time!
Typically what I do on a longer part is to. Press the tail center very lightly just to support the part enough to skim a steady band. But befor that I get the part running as true as possible by adjusting the chuck and tapping it around at the center end. Sometimes I even skim a good diameter at the tail end and skim the steady band at the chuck end. Than turn the whole part around. It just depends on how long and how straight the stock.
Is this problem mostly due to you re-chucking on raw stock? Could most of this be avoided by clamping on of the of turned diameters to get the flange OD round and concentric and face it flat? Seems odd to remove the stock only to set it up in the exact same place, was this more of an academic exercise for the benefit of the viewers?
The reason was the customer wanted to verify the finished dimensions. But because of time restraints I needed to rough all the blanks first. Normally you are correct except for relieving stress in the material could cause the part to move off center. Especially removing that much material.
@@EdgePrecision your insight is practically endless... residual stresses could easily leave a semi-roughed blank worse off than where you started, thus necessitating the methods you used.
Nice work and video, thanks Peter. It looks like a shaft to carry some kind of Timken bearing. It must be nice not to have to use form tools for the radii , a major advantage over manual work on a part like that. Are they polyurethane wipers on your steady rest?
Nice video Peter, like your other! I look at the news in germany on tv. In houston is real winter and a lot of snow and no electricity sometimes? Hope you are ok! Greetings!
Our electric has been out for two days. In 10-15 deg F weather.Or -12 to -9 C. And one top of that a burst water pipe. Still no power but tonight should at least be 32F or 0 C . So a little warmer. But no power and no water. Life in the new green deal!
Hi, i curious if i have same problem with rir like that but part abit longer and heavier. Whatever i tap it alwy 5. Have to force stedyrest in and run. It in accept out tilerance . i dont know if u have any trick for something like that. Thank
Hey Peter have you considered using a starrett strain gauge? For long shaft lengths15 to 20 ft, it's the only way I can make sure that the shaft is not sagging down or to 1 side.
Could of cut a steady band at the end of the roughing op . If that fails re skim the steady band on op1 of finishing . Also I would of turned a grip on that for roughing jst makes life easier .
I was just trying to demonstrate something here in this video. Normally I would skim a steady band as you say. I should of mentioned that in the video, it would have been better.
I can only hope that the amount of stock removed is specifically per design blueprint. I wonder what that shaft is for. Because that could use a smaller diameter shaft stock with the flange plate center bored and the shaft welded in and machined. Otherwise thats one expensive shaft.
These are replacement shafts for a machine this customer has. The originals were made the way you are referring to and failed. So they didn't want to take the chance on this happening again. But I think the failure happened because of improper welding. In any case there seems to be a common misconception in these comments that it would be less costly to fabricate these shafts from two pieces, by welding. But in reality all your doing is changing people you pay. You can pay the material supplier or the welding shop. You see the way I did it in this video. We waist more material and there is a little more machining for roughing. But to fabricate first I have to prepare the two parts to be welded. That takes almost as much time as roughing off the material like you see in this video. Than the weld shop has to take the time to do a proper welding job (Welders charge a lot of money). That means proper preheat welding and post heat treat. Than I still have to line up on the part and rough from there to the finish cuts but a little less. At this point have we really saved money? I can guarantee it has taken more time. And in this case time was a factor. And more importantly it was the customers decision. So that's good enough for me.
Maybe your not aware because you didn’t watch the previous video on this. Because of the customer not having a solid fix on the exact dimensions. I had to rough out each shaft first. Than remount and true them up for the finish machining. This wasn’t a case of checking runout in process as you say. But even so on the first part that wouldn’t be a bad idea. It never hurts to be carful. If it only takes a few minutes on a expensive piece of material.
I always get the part running true all the way down from front to back and then bring in the rollers on the steady rest just to keep it there. I’ve never used a hydraulic steady rest tho. I’ve only ever had manual ones on all my machines. And I’ve seen a lot of steady rests get jacked up because of people putting the part in a bind and forcing it to center with the steady rest. That’s definitely not what they are designed for lol rookie mistake that can be a real expensive one too!
Peter, could you do a video on tool wear offsets/tool corrections? This is something I never see mentioned in a video, but from experience of running a CNC lathe I had to constantly make corrections to keep my tolerances in check, especially when the lathe was warming up and whenever an insert needed to be changed out. How do you hit your target dimensions with small runs like these? Thanks.
I wonder what's the fastest traverse speed of that head - just for the consideration of turning oval shafts or eccentrics. Did I hear someone at the back say that head needed a clapper box on it ? ;)
The part was previously roughed. So the cam software naturally starts at the largest diameter down to the smaller. to get the remaining material off after the rough face on the flange.
Just rough it all out on the center, back the center out, and rebore the center hole. You can't use a center drill for this. Has to be bored to 60 degrees with a weany boring bar. Then run the (good ) center back in and finish all the turned surfaces. Someone said cut both sides of the flange and the locating rabbit in one setup. Yes, do that if you can. You may have to buy a piece of stock An inch or so longer to Chuck on. Reset with an old time steady rest and finish the mill work on the end. Turn around and face the back off.
Or mill the center like I did in the rough out video. The only thing is I had to drill the 1.0” hole, bore the 1.25 c- bore and drill and tap the 4 holes. Doing as you suggest would mean running the steady rest on finished diameters. I don’t care for that because it marks the finish and possibly dents them with shavings getting under the rollers. If there was no end work OK. Also due to the customers requirements I had to rough all the parts first.
When you rough a long journal like that they always warp to a certain extent. It may be warpage or the material moving in the Chuck jaws. I have had them go out 1/16 of an inch When releasing the center. Rough machine, release the center and check indicate the shaft end. Leave the steady off and bore the center Hole in a free state. Check indicate the center hole. Skim one diameter on center, set the steady, and finish the counterbored hole. Than finish the od profile. on center. If you need keyway that may cause runout too. Should work out.
Normally I would turn the whole thing in one finish cut. But there were different tolerances and finish requirements on each diameter. This is soft material and hard to get a good finish taking a shallow cut. So I programmed to cut each step separately to be able to run each diameter. In the video I showed only one finish cut on each. But it actually took two. I stood off .010" and cut each time. Than mic-ed. Than adjust for the final finish cut in one cut. That way in this soft steel it leaves a good finish.
may it be because stress relieved ? due to the so big amount of metal removed? something like this happen to me once with a large amount of metal removed,your machine is very nice to see doing this
@@EdgePrecision Does your customer always send you CAD files that you can use or you put their drawing in your CAM program? I’m a retired machinist for 38yrs. I started cranking handles in 1975 and retired a foreman in 2013. What your doing on that amazing Mazak lathe (machining center) is so interesting to me to see the changes since 2013. My Mazak CNC machines include 2 vertical and 1 horizontal 5 axis one with 5 pallets. We also had 4 Mori Seike CNC horizontal mills (one with conversational) and 2 lathes, a Moore CNC jig grinder. I also programmed with CAD to CAM. Thank you for your great videos with interesting comments about set up, tools and procedures! I see myself back at running a machine.
Hey Peter, great info as always, thanks. One question, when you are hitting the part with the hammer, are you worried about the spindle bearings or is that a no issue?
I have never see a problem on these bigger machines with it. I don’t think it would be a good idea on a smaller machine. I have seen other machinists hit much harder than I am in this video (I don’t do this) with steel hammers. It still appeared to be OK for the machine. But in their case it’s not their machine. I don’t think a dead blow hammer puts the same kind of shock into the spindle that metal hammers would. It would be batter to use a jack screw between the face of the chuck and the part.
No between the face of the chuck and the end of the part. If you jack the face you can move the end of the part. I have even used a low profile hydraulic cylinder with a hand pump.
When you need to go back and take just a few more thou/tenths off for a final dimension, this machine is still accurate even when you move the head fully out of the way and return? I.e. the 'repeatability' of the moves are super good, within tenths? It seems most manual machinists wouldn't touch the critical head position and just nudge it in the last bit, maybe even just do a spring pass.
In this material a spring pass would mess up the finish. You can’t take a .001” pass in this soft steel and get a dood finish. Also in this machine I can’t polish. I can’t run any spindle with the doors open. So there is no polishing like you can do on a manual machine.
@@EdgePrecision So you have to get it near perfect on the final 5-10 thou pass. What if you need tenths precision, like a bearing fit? Do you move it to a manual machine for a final polishing step?
I'm not sure I understand your question. In this video I mill a starting hole to start the long 1.0" drill. After facing the shaft end. The purpose being with such a long drill I want it to start on center. Than I turn a 1.250" diameter counter bore with a small chamfer on its beginning. Because this c-bore is turned it will naturally run on centerline of the rotation. Than I run the tail center in this turned c-bore. That would cause the OD turning to run concentric to the ID and face holes (Everything being prefect. There is always error, but it will be small.) . There were no true position tolerances specified on the print for these features. But I would expect them to easily run in the title block tolerance of +-.005". The rest of the OD turning being done in one setting will of course all run concentric to themselves. Now there is a shoulder on the flange end (Not yet turned) that has a tolerance geometrically. This will come in the next setup. I don't know if that answers your question. But here it is. Thanks Gilberto Tejeda.
@@EdgePrecision I was wondering about the true po cause when I used the indicator the way u did I would get error cause of the weight of the indicator and the tool holding it
@@gilbertotejeda4167 I have tested this indicator and arm combination. It doesn’t suffer from error due to gravity. But you are correct this can be a problem. You need to test any arm and indicator combination you use in a horizontal position for this problem.
@@EdgePrecision that's what I wanted to know gravity error, thanx for the info and the vids they are very informative and always looking forward to the next 1!
Cool video....but I can't help to think why in the world am I watching machining videos on my day off work. I must either be a sick man or just love my trade.
Its so nice to see a machinist demonstrate the skill required to accurately operate a machine tool. It seems that so many people on UA-cam are under the impression that the most difficult part of machining components is deciding which Haas machine to order. As a machinist with 40+ years of experience in dealing with odd ball jobs and set ups like this (manual and CNC), its refreshing to see that you take the time to give a glimpse into the skill and experience required to produce parts. Holding tolerance, dealing with run out, addressing chatter, ect doesn't usually happen as a result of inputting simple line of G code or adaptive roughing cycle. You demonstrate all of the things that become part of the true machinists knowledge base. CNC's have revolutionized the trade but it still requires the skill of a craftsman to finesse these machines into submission. Great Video Peter.
I like these deep dives you do on things like hydraulic steady rests. A lot of these things I know about but never really thought about the reason why. Another of my favorite things you talk about is weird things that happen when indicating parts, and traps that you can fall into when you think you've indicated a part well but actually haven't. I could watch a whole video series about stuff like that. Books rarely ever talk about these more advanced concepts and Old Timers just know them instinctively so don't think about them, and rarely ever think to pass that knowledge on, and the quality of trade schools in general, specifically machinist programs, have really taken a dump in the last 20 years on average, so there's a lot of apprentices who barely even learn the basics.
Man, I don't know where you're from, but I'm a mature age machining apprentice in Australia, and the trade school quality is less than worthless where I am. I'm genuinely considering just buying some of my own machines and teaching myself because I feel it must be a better idea at this point.
@@benwilms3942 I am not sure what the situation's like down under but here in the US it's still possible to find good programs around, you just need to search. Unfortunately most kids don't know what to look for, not that they could be expected to.
@ Ben Wilms, I basicly agree with you but it will cost you a lot of money to effectively set up a competent workshop.
Which part of our great nation are you?
2nd that!
Ive been doing custom machining since i was 14 and now 42 and ran , set up and always did my own programming (hand programming at control) and i still learn things all the time! Especially with the new HSM! I developed my own ways to HSM by simply using incremental moves in a sub program and repeating them with a incremental move in each time with these crazy new 5 flutes that we get to play with now!
Keep it up peter! You actually teach MORE then titan! Hahhaha! People need to also see that a 1 piece 20 thousand dollar casting or part does not require 800 inches a minute but extreme accuracy! Keep it up bud! I love your videos! I was thinking about making a mazak mill conversational how to video broken up from easiest to more complex geometry part programming explaining all off the conversational units definitions and what every question the machine asks for really means. And tips and tricks to accurately program and set your tools and probing programming techniques and etc. Since I'm a mill guy i would absolutely LOVE if you would do the same with the multi axis lathe! YOU DA MAN!!!
I don’t want to criticize Titan but not everyone has a unlimited budget or machine tooling and machine tool sponsorship. We just have to work with what we have or can afford. Remember this. It’s not the fastest speeds and feeds that get the job done. It the consistent and reliable methods that work the best.
Very good points about not putting undue stress and vibration into a part because of improper setup. I see lots of cnc operators that think the machine takes care of everything and it automatically spits out perfect parts. Turns out you still have top be a machinist if you want good parts particularly the bigger the parts the more prone to errors.
Turns out there's more to it than just chucking a piece of material and pushing the blinky green button.
Tell that to the management.
I do not understand why he needs to use a mic to measure diameters so precisely cut !
@@millomweb Parts can move around and tools wear; measurement is vital to hitting dimensions.
@@jimsvideos7201 I believe tool wear is calculated and compensated for.
As I've said to the YTer, that machine should be using lasers to measure and position the work - to get it running true and finished to correct size !!!
@@millomweb It think that specific machine is a bit old (not that there's anything wrong with old machines mind you) so at the time perhaps optical measurement was not available or too pricy ?
Hey Peter you've learned me something I never knew. I've never seen it or heard about it on any big UA-cam channels. I think it deserves a bigger mention. "Hydraulic chucks" coming loose. We all know the danger involved there. Is this a standard teaching to the young apprentices? Someone should make a warning video... preferably you.
Every chuck will loose a lot of force when turning too fast.
In manual machining this problem appears very rarely, because often you can't even come close to those RPM's.
But one of the first things you want to program in a CNC-lathe is the max rpm, which you need to limit almost every time.
Holey moley! I see what David means about trepanning. It would have saved a pantload of machining on this part not to mention a huge piece of material that wasn't turned into chips.
I usually use 4-jaw chucks at both ends of the part and when it's ready to put the steady rest on, I use 2 indicators to make sure the part stays in the center. One in the X direction and the other one in the Y direction. If it's not in the center, I have to adjust my steady rest.
Funny how a decently large part looks like an 2" shaft in that big machine :D . great info on the steady.
Does a machine like that have a regular scheduled maintenance program? I would be interested in seeing a video on that.
It probably does that itself at night when everyone's in bed.
It depends on the entity that owns it. Some maintain their equipment better than others.
For truing up a shaft like that I normally use a jack screw between the chuck and the flange of the job. Saves hammering on the spindle.
It is simply amazing how that everything matters when you work with the tolerances you are working with. Thank you for this type of information.
I have watched edge precision videos for 3 years now I believe he has reached the balance between professional machinist and regulars who are interested in machining. Face it sometimes there is nothing like watching a machine RUN.
Great to see a post from you again. You are a true machinist and SME. Brings back a lot of memories in my previous role. I started my engineering manufacturing career as a Turner Machinist apprentice in South Africa in the mid 90's. All manual machines and remember the first CNC mill and Lathe I got trained on by Artisans that had served there time. I emigrated to Ireland as a CNC programmer later done my degree in Mechanical Engineering followed by another in Mechatronics. I miss doing what you do.... being up close with the machines.
Man... I'd really love to intern for this guy.
It's people like Peter across all industries that need to record their knowledge for future.
I love watching his videos. He's full of knowledge.
When your cutting head indexed with the indicator on it, I flinched a little, haha!
Yes I was just orienting the mill spindle. For some reason the spindle has to be oriented to release the tool. Must be some safety thing?
Oh man havnt had a notification from you in a while I hope all is good
He's made 4-5 videos in the past month. That's like 1 per week. That's "a while"?
UA-cam has nerfed notifications, so you almost have to go check your favorite channels daily now.
@@TexDrinkwater
Agree. UA-cam has really messed up their platform over the past couple months. But, alas, I'll be sticking with UA-cam till another platform becomes more reliable and more of my favorite channels appear there!
Ding that bell. It doesn’t always work but still, for this channel, dinger all day
Also, unding and re ding
Thanks peter, as someone trying to become god tier at turning, lessons like these are hard learned. When I first started doing medium l/d ratio shafts that needed to held near the chuck by the stead rest, i was terrified when I actually put an indicator on the rest and realised how much the part was moving the chuck.
Dang, I didnt know you could get those AME drills that long.
Great work, and great video. thanks
Allied makes them longer that that, got some in just last week that will drill 28” deep.
A Good show of the saying. "Everything is flexing" 😁👍 nice vidoe Peter. People think just because its cnc it just makes perfect parts and No craftman ship i needed.
Its easy to get bogged down with trying to achieve perfection. When you have the equipment (Clocks, DTIs capable of showing the run out) then we chase until we make it perfect. I do that too.
When in reality we are already exceeding the drawing tolerances. But hey?
We wouldn't be happy any other way!
You do a really good job editing these videos and explaining what you're doing in a concise way.
Awesome work as always Peter!
ATB, Robin
Thanks again! Robin.
We live in a universe made of rubber. Nothing is truly straight, everything is flexing.
hah... you know what would have been amazing in hindsight Peter?
If you did a split screen with one camera on the controller and we could see all the stuff you do off-camera on the controller. Just for us Noobs to mazak.
Best,
Dan
Post Script: I love your videos, and I wish I worked for you so I could learn from you.
Great demo of steady rest setup and explanation of why it matters. Thanks.
At first I thought stress.... as you may have seen in my dancing steady rest.... but no. I didn't know those chuck jaws could come loose with high revs but I understand how now. That's worrying and maybe why there's lots of videos on CNC crash.
Yes a hydraulic chuck can loosen with speed. Especially with heavy jaws. That why most parts are thrown out on facing cuts with constant surface speed activated and no speed limit in the program.
Are you using CIMCOOL coolant by any chance? I always get this milky color and people give me crap about it that I need to replace my coolant.
No Qualichem. But my coolant is very dirty and has a lot of way oil in it. I need to change it but this machine holds 300 Gal.
@@EdgePrecision wow. You'll need about half a drum of coolant to mix up enough to replace all that.
Showing tenths precision casually without comment. Nice humble-brag :-)
Good job squeezing out those final bits. I learned something new!
14:10 Confirmed. Peter is a Jedi
I've seen many machinists loosen the chuck to true the part. They just make it a little less tight, not loose.
Tricky to do with a hydraulic chuck, depending on the system.
And when it's spinning at 2000 rippems you do not want any questions!!
Really good point on checking things on both ends to make totally sure things are how you think they are.
I'm suprised, Cosidering the weight of metal removed it's not been stress relieved in some way !.Thanks for another great video. Stay safe Peter.
Always pleased to see your videos on the line up thanks Peter.
Fantastic craftsmanship Peter!
Really helpful video. Great job!
WOW! Nobody screaming about hammering on a part with the indicator touching. I always wonder how much more time those people take to keep lifting the indicator off while they pound away not knowing how much anything is moving.
As far as hammers, I use my 3lb stubby steel with an aluminum block when a plastic dead-blow can handle things. We don't have lead in the shop because it scares the office people. They're afraid that us troglodytes out in the shop will chew on it.
Great video 👍 Pete you could describe the run-out as a taper effect the more run-out from the chuck X by the length the shaft the greater the run-out .
Awesome machine, expert operator. Thanks Peter.
titans of cnc just moved to Texas hope you can see his shop when things get better -Precision job
I think he is in Fort Worth Texas. That is quite a distance away from where I am. Texas is big. But you can never tell.
I hope not, I can’t stand that guy, one of the few I have blocked UA-cam from recommending.
@@ehamster
I used to watch him (titan) but now he REALLY annoys me! Unlimited budget etc. Very impressive feeds and speeds on milling hard materials but he never seems to be drilling holes or tapping those same materials. 🤔
Oh hi, I like your videos really much. We have 3 Wfl multi cutting machines in our shop and we have almost the same chucks. If the chuck is centered correctly, you shouldn´t have any runout (
There is a manual 4-jaw chuck on my machine. Also the end of the raw stock is just saw cut. Or in other words not square. If I was to extend the tail center to the part. This would force that out of square face up against the jaws throwing everything out of square. No the steady rest is better to center it. For the purpose of this video I was demonstrating the forces on the steady rest by a part not running true. In reality I would chuck the part running in the steady rest. Get it running true at the chuck. Than open the steady rest. Skim a true running band for the rollers to run on. Than close the steady rest and proceed with the machine work . Like I said I wanted to demonstrate what forces were on the steady if you didn’t skim a true running band or didn’t hammer the part true at that end. As I did in the video. Hope that makes sense. Thanks.
@@EdgePrecision Ah yes okok. Keep on going.
This was super helpful I have had that problem with steady rest before. The way you indicated the center of the part with the interapid Indicator, I know you had explained it on another video before, can you tell me what video that was or can you explain it again please?
Hi Peter, in this case I would probably just open the steady and skim a new steady band then its running perfect for the rollers,
That is another way. I do do that sort of thing on longer parts. I sort of get it running true. Than press the tail canter with light pressure. just enough to skim a steady band.
@@EdgePrecision yes, we do exactly the same thing, anything just to give it a little bit of support while you are skimming, sometimes even just a thick washer to press against the front face with the tailstock... in Scotland we called it jam Turning, lol
Yes I do the same thing
I wonder how long it takes a skilled operator to program all these moves and tool paths and the change of tools?
The actual programming doesn't take a lot of time. What takes time is deciding what tooling you intend to use. Than making sure you have that tooling or ordering it. Sometimes in a shop you know you have a tool but just can't find it. Believe me I have spend a lot of time on this. I need to get better organized. Than to set all those tools up. Than carefully run them for the first time without breaking/destroying them. This is where the combination of correct programming and setup comes in.
Good stuff, Peter! I don't have a steady rest, but this is certainly good to know, and I'm sure plenty applicable to other work holding challenges.
Thank you for putting the time in to showing this.
could you have gone from the tailstock to steady rest and it be true had you not taken the part out.
if so. why did you take the part out and not finish the parts one at a time?
i dont know why you would or wouldnt, im just curious.
That was at the customers request because they were finalizing some finish dimensions.
@@EdgePrecision gotcha.. thanks
como siempre trabajo con ejecucion profesional impecable..un placer seguir tu canal..muchas gracias por tu tiempo..un saludo y mucha salud
Hi Peter,
Great video as always :)
When I saw that test indicator go for a spin I had an ''Oh shit'' moment.
Regards
You would I guess have less of this problem when rough turn the material that gets chucked first: then you would have less problems with the steady rest when rechucking later on. And add that notch right at the beginning?
SMW Autoblok the maker of your steady rest also manufactures some nice quick change hidraulic chucks that have a longer jaw stroke than Kitagawa. Maybe change to them to ease your work.
The chuck I am using in this video is a manual 4-jaw chuck.
@@EdgePrecision I know that, I was suggesting that maybe a quick change hydraulic chuck would make your job easyer
Да. Это реализовать сложно. Выставить заготовку тот ещё геммор.. лайк. Профессионал может всё!
The chip guards on my SMW Autoblok steadyrest are not like yours. Did you modify something there to give better chip protection. The Mazak 650 I run has a bad problem with getting chips in the rollers there. No matter what I’ve tried.
I just added some 1/8 red silicone sheet to wipe chips off on the two upper arms. As you can see in the video. They help but don’t keep everything out. So when that’s critical I cut the bottom out of a empty 5 gal pail. Than cut a snug fitting hole to fit the part. Shove that up against the arms on both sides. That in combination with the silicon wipers will keep almost everything out.
Always a great watch. All you need is a bigger hammer.
I do have a bigger dead blow hammer. But I’m to lazy to walk across the shop. To the horizontal mill to get it.
You need to float the steady rests in from time to time with a test piece. I do these a lot in the field and between a little twist in the beds and the steady moving a little it's a lot to keep track of.
Yes, I almost prefer the manual type. They don't really look the same as those on a manual engine lathe. (Maybe I should show one in a video.) They use them here on the Mazak slant 50 lathes here). You can adjust each arm individually and get just the right pressure on each roller. for more delicate turning they are really nice.
@@EdgePrecisionAgreed. Isn't RIP down there? Good manual steadies. I used to get those and the dog houses for rear mount chucks from Ann at Ammtech.
At work when we do heads like that for paper machines, we turn them between centers to finish them. Do all the front and back work together.
Does that require a sub chuck?
@@benwilms3942 Actually there's a bit of a process to it, perhaps longer than needed but everything is perfectly concentric when finished.
We put the rough stock in V blocks on the horizontal like he has, mill the stock to length, drill a lathe center spot in each end and drill and tap the holes in each end.
In the lathe we chuck on a piece of material and turn a 60deg taper like the center in the tail stock. We mill slots 180deg apart in that material.
We then put cap head bolts in the tapped holes in the end that goes into the chuck with the machined center adapter. The heads of the bolts engage with the slots milled to drive the material like a lathe dog. The other end is held by the live center of the tail stock.
Rough out the entire part and remove for stress relief.
Reinstall the part between centers and finish.
Let me be clear, I'm not saying what he's doing is wrong, I'm just saying what we do where I work. Many ways to skin a cat!
@@justinl.3587 no shit! That cap head driver idea is awesome! I'm assuming you can turn and mill in the one machine then. And obviously you dont need to face turn the part (unless I'm missing something...). Thanks man.
@@benwilms3942 Yeah we run an older Mazak SQT30M which has a 12 station turret with live tooling. Our process might be complicated but it works haha
About the face turning. The faces are established in the horizontal so no face turning needed.
Thank you Peter, another interesting and informative video, I myself am amazed as to just what modern machine's can do.
In using the hydraulic steady rest, there must be running clearances in all the individual parts that eventually add up.
However, not all clearances are or can be equal upon each and every part as to also the wear through out the assembly and must vary from part to part.
Could this be or may this contribute to the variation if very minor with the end of the component running out
Maybe this is where a more fixed(an adjustable screw) steady comes into its own??
On some of the machines here they do have manual type steady rests on a CNC machine. But they are very different looking than the ones on a manual lathe.
Thank you sir, great videos and details!
When do you worry about the spindle bearings whacking the part with a hammer? I’m sure the Mazak will tolerate some dead blow action, but I’d have thought much bigger and you’d risk damaging the bearings.
As far as I can tell with these big machines. You can’t physically hit it hard enough with a dead blow hammer to damage the spindle bearings.
Beautiful result!
You can ironically have tir at both ends but the length will sag, a strain gauge will show you the correction for the steady rest.
On a long part I could see that. On this short part. I don’t think there would be enough to worry about.
Made my weekend, thanks 👍
You have mentioned it but what camera do you use to film with coolant?
I use a GoPro in a special case. Look at my video play list camera enclosure for GoPro hero 6.
Any opportunities coming up to show the 'other ways' you mentioned at 5:25, where you can't open the steady rest because of part weight or length? Thanks again for sharing your time!
Typically what I do on a longer part is to. Press the tail center very lightly just to support the part enough to skim a steady band. But befor that I get the part running as true as possible by adjusting the chuck and tapping it around at the center end. Sometimes I even skim a good diameter at the tail end and skim the steady band at the chuck end. Than turn the whole part around. It just depends on how long and how straight the stock.
Is this problem mostly due to you re-chucking on raw stock? Could most of this be avoided by clamping on of the of turned diameters to get the flange OD round and concentric and face it flat? Seems odd to remove the stock only to set it up in the exact same place, was this more of an academic exercise for the benefit of the viewers?
The reason was the customer wanted to verify the finished dimensions. But because of time restraints I needed to rough all the blanks first. Normally you are correct except for relieving stress in the material could cause the part to move off center. Especially removing that much material.
@@EdgePrecision your insight is practically endless... residual stresses could easily leave a semi-roughed blank worse off than where you started, thus necessitating the methods you used.
Nice work and video, thanks Peter. It looks like a shaft to carry some kind of Timken bearing. It must be nice not to have to use form tools for the radii , a major advantage over manual work on a part like that. Are they polyurethane wipers on your steady rest?
Silicon rubber.
I worry about shock damaging an indicator that remains in contact with material I am hammering.
That’s why I never hammer into a dial indicator. Always away from the travel. But even so I have never seen one damaged in this way.
Dude always reminds me of Nathan Wallace from Repo! The Genetic Opera
Nice video Peter, like your other! I look at the news in germany on tv. In houston is real winter and a lot of snow and no electricity sometimes? Hope you are ok! Greetings!
Our electric has been out for two days. In 10-15 deg F weather.Or -12 to -9 C. And one top of that a burst water pipe. Still no power but tonight should at least be 32F or 0 C . So a little warmer. But no power and no water. Life in the new green deal!
@@EdgePrecision omg! Stay strong Peter! ✊✊✊👍👍👍😎
Hello Peter,
An interesting video...
Take care.
Paul,,
Great videos I wish my company would buy a turn mill or even a mazak for that matter.
Great video peter!!!!
Hi, i curious if i have same problem with rir like that but part abit longer and heavier. Whatever i tap it alwy 5. Have to force stedyrest in and run. It in accept out tilerance . i dont know if u have any trick for something like that. Thank
I'm curious as to why this part needed to be machined from a single piece of stock. why couldn't it be made as a weldment?
They at first tried that method of construction. They had a failure. So they decided to go this route.
Thanks for the information and the show
Hey Peter have you considered using a starrett strain gauge? For long shaft lengths15 to 20 ft, it's the only way I can make sure that the shaft is not sagging down or to 1 side.
I have never used such a tool. And have never seen one being used. I will have to look into that.
Could of cut a steady band at the end of the roughing op . If that fails re skim the steady band on op1 of finishing . Also I would of turned a grip on that for roughing jst makes life easier .
I was just trying to demonstrate something here in this video. Normally I would skim a steady band as you say. I should of mentioned that in the video, it would have been better.
Great video, thanks!
I can only hope that the amount of stock removed is specifically per design blueprint. I wonder what that shaft is for. Because that could use a smaller diameter shaft stock with the flange plate center bored and the shaft welded in and machined. Otherwise thats one expensive shaft.
These are replacement shafts for a machine this customer has. The originals were made the way you are referring to and failed. So they didn't want to take the chance on this happening again. But I think the failure happened because of improper welding. In any case there seems to be a common misconception in these comments that it would be less costly to fabricate these shafts from two pieces, by welding. But in reality all your doing is changing people you pay. You can pay the material supplier or the welding shop. You see the way I did it in this video. We waist more material and there is a little more machining for roughing. But to fabricate first I have to prepare the two parts to be welded. That takes almost as much time as roughing off the material like you see in this video. Than the weld shop has to take the time to do a proper welding job (Welders charge a lot of money). That means proper preheat welding and post heat treat. Than I still have to line up on the part and rough from there to the finish cuts but a little less. At this point have we really saved money? I can guarantee it has taken more time. And in this case time was a factor. And more importantly it was the customers decision. So that's good enough for me.
I hope you’re doing ok there in Texas with the current weather
i plan to buy a doosan puma next year,hope everything goes ok.
Did you have to learn this the hard way?
Most things I have learned. I have learned that way. I have no formal training.
sir,why you have changed your gauges to measure circular and shaft run out in process.(i am new machinist please reply)
Maybe your not aware because you didn’t watch the previous video on this. Because of the customer not having a solid fix on the exact dimensions. I had to rough out each shaft first. Than remount and true them up for the finish machining. This wasn’t a case of checking runout in process as you say. But even so on the first part that wouldn’t be a bad idea. It never hurts to be carful. If it only takes a few minutes on a expensive piece of material.
@@EdgePrecision thanks got it ,going to watch first one
I always get the part running true all the way down from front to back and then bring in the rollers on the steady rest just to keep it there. I’ve never used a hydraulic steady rest tho. I’ve only ever had manual ones on all my machines. And I’ve seen a lot of steady rests get jacked up because of people putting the part in a bind and forcing it to center with the steady rest. That’s definitely not what they are designed for lol rookie mistake that can be a real expensive one too!
Peter, could you do a video on tool wear offsets/tool corrections? This is something I never see mentioned in a video, but from experience of running a CNC lathe I had to constantly make corrections to keep my tolerances in check, especially when the lathe was warming up and whenever an insert needed to be changed out. How do you hit your target dimensions with small runs like these? Thanks.
Is it a Haas lathe?
@@loukola5353 20+ year old Gildemeister CTX400E
I wonder what's the fastest traverse speed of that head - just for the consideration of turning oval shafts or eccentrics.
Did I hear someone at the back say that head needed a clapper box on it ? ;)
I'm curious. Why are you roughing starting from the biggest left-most diameter and going to the right?
The part was previously roughed. So the cam software naturally starts at the largest diameter down to the smaller. to get the remaining material off after the rough face on the flange.
Love your videos
Just rough it all out on the center, back the center out, and rebore the center hole.
You can't use a center drill for this. Has to be bored to 60 degrees with a weany boring bar.
Then run the (good ) center back in and finish all the turned surfaces.
Someone said cut both sides of the flange and the locating rabbit in one setup. Yes, do that if you can.
You may have to buy a piece of stock
An inch or so longer to Chuck on.
Reset with an old time steady rest and finish the mill work on the end.
Turn around and face the back off.
Or mill the center like I did in the rough out video. The only thing is I had to drill the 1.0” hole, bore the 1.25 c- bore and drill and tap the 4 holes. Doing as you suggest would mean running the steady rest on finished diameters. I don’t care for that because it marks the finish and possibly dents them with shavings getting under the rollers. If there was no end work OK. Also due to the customers requirements I had to rough all the parts first.
When you rough a long journal like that they always warp to a certain extent.
It may be warpage or the material moving in the Chuck jaws.
I have had them go out 1/16 of an inch
When releasing the center.
Rough machine, release the center and check indicate the shaft end.
Leave the steady off and bore the center
Hole in a free state.
Check indicate the center hole.
Skim one diameter on center, set the steady, and finish the counterbored hole.
Than finish the od profile.
on center.
If you need keyway that may cause runout too.
Should work out.
I like how you turn the diameters one at a time instead of all together, no cheating the program rite?
Normally I would turn the whole thing in one finish cut. But there were different tolerances and finish requirements on each diameter. This is soft material and hard to get a good finish taking a shallow cut. So I programmed to cut each step separately to be able to run each diameter. In the video I showed only one finish cut on each. But it actually took two. I stood off .010" and cut each time. Than mic-ed. Than adjust for the final finish cut in one cut. That way in this soft steel it leaves a good finish.
@@EdgePrecision Ive done some long shaft work with tight tolerance's and breaking it up was the way to go. thanks for the videos
Very interesting, thanks.
may it be because stress relieved ? due to the so big amount of metal removed? something like this happen to me once with a large amount of metal removed,your machine is very nice to see doing this
It's Very beutiful work , machine peefect and operador expert.
Do you use Mazatrol to program, G code from CAD to CAM or something else.
The only thing I use Mazatrol for is to bore soft jaws. I do everything else with Cam software.
@@EdgePrecision Does your customer always send you CAD files that you can use or you put their drawing in your CAM program?
I’m a retired machinist for 38yrs. I started cranking handles in 1975 and retired a foreman in 2013. What your doing on that amazing Mazak lathe (machining center) is so interesting to me to see the changes since 2013. My Mazak CNC machines include 2 vertical and 1 horizontal 5 axis one with 5 pallets. We also had 4 Mori Seike CNC horizontal mills (one with conversational) and 2 lathes, a Moore CNC jig grinder. I also programmed with CAD to CAM.
Thank you for your great videos with interesting comments about set up, tools and procedures! I see myself back at running a machine.
@@peterecklund886 Now days the customer almost always provides a solid model of their part.
Hey Peter, great info as always, thanks. One question, when you are hitting the part with the hammer, are you worried about the spindle bearings or is that a no issue?
I have never see a problem on these bigger machines with it. I don’t think it would be a good idea on a smaller machine. I have seen other machinists hit much harder than I am in this video (I don’t do this) with steel hammers. It still appeared to be OK for the machine. But in their case it’s not their machine. I don’t think a dead blow hammer puts the same kind of shock into the spindle that metal hammers would. It would be batter to use a jack screw between the face of the chuck and the part.
@@EdgePrecision so, you would put the jack screw between the part and the bed of the machine and lift up?
No between the face of the chuck and the end of the part. If you jack the face you can move the end of the part. I have even used a low profile hydraulic cylinder with a hand pump.
you are binding it at the chuck
The end that's in the chuck created the problem because it hasn't been machined.
And is what I would call black bar (hot rolled)
When you need to go back and take just a few more thou/tenths off for a final dimension, this machine is still accurate even when you move the head fully out of the way and return? I.e. the 'repeatability' of the moves are super good, within tenths? It seems most manual machinists wouldn't touch the critical head position and just nudge it in the last bit, maybe even just do a spring pass.
In this material a spring pass would mess up the finish. You can’t take a .001” pass in this soft steel and get a dood finish. Also in this machine I can’t polish. I can’t run any spindle with the doors open. So there is no polishing like you can do on a manual machine.
@@EdgePrecision So you have to get it near perfect on the final 5-10 thou pass. What if you need tenths precision, like a bearing fit? Do you move it to a manual machine for a final polishing step?
After milling the end of the shaft what true position do you get to centerline of the shaft?
I'm not sure I understand your question. In this video I mill a starting hole to start the long 1.0" drill. After facing the shaft end. The purpose being with such a long drill I want it to start on center. Than I turn a 1.250" diameter counter bore with a small chamfer on its beginning. Because this c-bore is turned it will naturally run on centerline of the rotation. Than I run the tail center in this turned c-bore. That would cause the OD turning to run concentric to the ID and face holes (Everything being prefect. There is always error, but it will be small.) . There were no true position tolerances specified on the print for these features. But I would expect them to easily run in the title block tolerance of +-.005". The rest of the OD turning being done in one setting will of course all run concentric to themselves. Now there is a shoulder on the flange end (Not yet turned) that has a tolerance geometrically. This will come in the next setup. I don't know if that answers your question. But here it is. Thanks Gilberto Tejeda.
@@EdgePrecision I was wondering about the true po cause when I used the indicator the way u did I would get error cause of the weight of the indicator and the tool holding it
@@gilbertotejeda4167 I have tested this indicator and arm combination. It doesn’t suffer from error due to gravity. But you are correct this can be a problem. You need to test any arm and indicator combination you use in a horizontal position for this problem.
@@EdgePrecision that's what I wanted to know gravity error, thanx for the info and the vids they are very informative and always looking forward to the next 1!
Cool video....but I can't help to think why in the world am I watching machining videos on my day off work. I must either be a sick man or just love my trade.
Great info! What brand spot drill was that? I'm having a tough go getting a 90 degree spot that will stay alive in 304 without chipping.
I'm not at the shop so I can't give you the exact part number.
Here is a link. nine9.jic-tools.com.tw/90nc-spot-drill3.html
@@EdgePrecision Thanks a bunch
I'm having the same problem in s/s with carbide spot drills HSS ones work well and cheap too.