The bouncing comparison to swift lowering springs is due to the dampers rebound side. Definitely don’t be shy to stiffen the dampers to reduce the frequency of the movement. Clean GD3!
The car is coming along nicely! That rear bracket that holds the bumper is notorious for rubbing so shaving it is necessary. I'm glad Fortune made these. When I had my Fit, the budget choices were mainly Megan Racing, BC's or Function & Form which is what I went with. In the future, I think I wanna go with these. I've heard nothing but good things. For endlinks, I went with White Line. They're cheap and no clunking.
You did all this right but a bit of lessons i learned over years from participating in entry level motorsports that can relate to street cars a bit. In lower cheaper levels of rallycross the ideal strut is believe it or not a functional and together yet blown one, very low, practically no resistance. People who race stock classes seriously have a habit of going out of way to find the most blown out ones. Although part of the demand is no one races super professionally in lower classes, and professional rally struts that are better usually end up more expensive then most cars they would be being put on by a factor of 2x to even 10x (15-20k.) This does not mean put blown struts in your street car, we aren't driving through pitted dirt fields or tracks. All that is meant to be pointed out with this is setting up bump and rebound for a road car never feel the need to over-tighten them, simply getting them to the point they don't bounce like a water bed is where you usually want to be. Especially around 2000 and even into early 2010s most manufacturers over did it to give cars "tight" feel, just a marketing thing really, luckily by later era they had factory adjustable. Good example of that and inline with all this is there is a Old Top Gear (BBC) where they test a GTI on all its settings, same thing happens it was fastest on "comfort" by pretty big margin, beyond margin of error. Springs and Swaybars control roll and pitch, the struts job is just to keep things stable and even after undulation. Excellent job here and cute dog!
Thanks for your videos, I have two 2007 Honda Fit, one manual, and one automatic. You are giving me a lot of ideas. I am looking forward to more videos from you.
Great job on this video! I have a 2007 Fit that shows its age, but fun to drive. It has 240K miles on it, but I am updating as I can. It is in need of shocks for sure. Thanks for the fender rolling tip!
What was the total cost to install the coil overs? Looks good! As for the end links, are the OEM ones adjustable or did you have to go aftermarket to prevent the binding?
Nick, are these Fortune Auto's inverted monotubes (or standard upright monotubes?) The dust cover kinda hides what's underneath there. (The rears are standard for sure.)
Love the video. But, be careful with Cygnus. The guy Geoff is very unforgiving and rude if you say anything bad or negative about him even tho he just rebrands fortunes lol. I love FA had them on my 240 and wrx, but won’t work with Geoff cuz he’s a prick in the community
❤ the rolling shots. Perfect lighting for that color. Thanks for the Fortune Auto review!
anytime brotha
The bouncing comparison to swift lowering springs is due to the dampers rebound side. Definitely don’t be shy to stiffen the dampers to reduce the frequency of the movement.
Clean GD3!
The car is coming along nicely! That rear bracket that holds the bumper is notorious for rubbing so shaving it is necessary.
I'm glad Fortune made these. When I had my Fit, the budget choices were mainly Megan Racing, BC's or Function & Form which is what I went with. In the future, I think I wanna go with these. I've heard nothing but good things.
For endlinks, I went with White Line. They're cheap and no clunking.
Yeah and I’m glad fortune auto provides the adjustable end links with the coils. So far so good!
You did all this right but a bit of lessons i learned over years from participating in entry level motorsports that can relate to street cars a bit. In lower cheaper levels of rallycross the ideal strut is believe it or not a functional and together yet blown one, very low, practically no resistance. People who race stock classes seriously have a habit of going out of way to find the most blown out ones. Although part of the demand is no one races super professionally in lower classes, and professional rally struts that are better usually end up more expensive then most cars they would be being put on by a factor of 2x to even 10x (15-20k.)
This does not mean put blown struts in your street car, we aren't driving through pitted dirt fields or tracks. All that is meant to be pointed out with this is setting up bump and rebound for a road car never feel the need to over-tighten them, simply getting them to the point they don't bounce like a water bed is where you usually want to be. Especially around 2000 and even into early 2010s most manufacturers over did it to give cars "tight" feel, just a marketing thing really, luckily by later era they had factory adjustable. Good example of that and inline with all this is there is a Old Top Gear (BBC) where they test a GTI on all its settings, same thing happens it was fastest on "comfort" by pretty big margin, beyond margin of error. Springs and Swaybars control roll and pitch, the struts job is just to keep things stable and even after undulation.
Excellent job here and cute dog!
Thanks for your videos, I have two 2007 Honda Fit, one manual, and one automatic. You are giving me a lot of ideas. I am looking forward to more videos from you.
Anytime man! Thank you for the support
Great job on this video! I have a 2007 Fit that shows its age, but fun to drive. It has 240K miles on it, but I am updating as I can. It is in need of shocks for sure. Thanks for the fender rolling tip!
Right on!
Glad the spring rates suit you well. 8k is just too stiff for me for the rear on such a light car. Awesome setup on the Fit!
Thanks bro!
some say to ditch the front sway entirely, better traction out of corners, reduces understeer, etc #maybe
Good job, Nikko!!!
Thanks!
What was the total cost to install the coil overs? Looks good! As for the end links, are the OEM ones adjustable or did you have to go aftermarket to prevent the binding?
Nick, are these Fortune Auto's inverted monotubes (or standard upright monotubes?) The dust cover kinda hides what's underneath there.
(The rears are standard for sure.)
how is the suspension geometry affected at that height is my only concern
Not sure on geometry as I dont seriously track the car. I just not im not riding on the bump stops and i dont feel any binding when on the street.
Side note, it looks like you have TYC headlights? If so, do you get condensation on just the passenger side? lol
Not sure what TYC headlights are but I got them on eBay. Just standard B92P Nighthawk Black headlights
@@NikkoSalgado ah. TYC is just the company that makes aftermarkets
Cute dog. Great job.
Haha thanks!
Can you use this system to lift it? 🗿
I wouldnt do that as this is stiffer suspension. Would be counter intuitive to have a lifted lift but harder suspension
My eye twitches every time he pronounces forward as “foh-ward”
Man I was looking for Honda fits to use for the Sundae Cup races, but they're pricey now. Hence I got a z3 lol
Haha both god fun cars!
Like and subribed bro.!
Thanks homie!
✨ P r o m o S M
Love the video. But, be careful with Cygnus. The guy Geoff is very unforgiving and rude if you say anything bad or negative about him even tho he just rebrands fortunes lol. I love FA had them on my 240 and wrx, but won’t work with Geoff cuz he’s a prick in the community
laughs in curb damages.
Slammmmm it
Loll