Thanks for the video, great information. I reset the timing everything as you said. I'm having problems putting back the harmonic balancer.(Crank Pulley). How to I stop the crank from moving when I tighten the bolt. Thanks
thanks! glad I could help! I would always get it as tight as I could, and then give it a few snacks with a hammer. alternatively. maybe you could put it in gear and Jack the driver side wheel onto the ground.
use either a strap wrench around the outer pulley and put car in 5th gear and have a person step on the brakes..between that and the strap wrench u can get 120 ftlbs torque on it...OR you can make a crank pulley holder out of a piece of 3/4 inche wood ..mine is abt 12 inches in length..it has a large hole in the center so i can put a large socket in there to turn the crank and it has 2 smaller holes that line up with those in the center of crank pulley...so i secure the holder with the 2 bolts to the crank , then i position it against either the cv axle or the frame... insert the large socket thru the center and torque away... this type holder will Not stress the rubber in the outer ring of balancer since its secured to the center....1/2 or 3/4" wood by 4" inches wide by 12inches long... best tool ever and makes removing pulley a breeze
I currently have a problem and no-one can assist. My cams and crank timing marks are currently lined up on TDC however my distributor rotor is pointing to #2 and not to #1 as it's supposed to be causing a huge misfire. I made doubly sure that piston #1 was on TDC with all marks in it's place. Is there a certain way to realign the cams or rotate my motor to get the dizzy rotor to point back to #1 so that my mechanical timing can be corrected?
I think th distributor only goes on one way. You need to check your mechanical timing. Pull #1 spark plug out and put a rod down onto the piston. Rotate the crank until the rod reaches the top of its stroke. That is top dead center for the pistons. At that moment, the cams should be lined up with their timing marks. If they arnt, then your mechanical timing is off. Rotate the engine over a few times by hand. They should all line up every other rotation if I remember correctly
what direction do you turn the cams or crankshaft when alinigning the notches, like say you tore the engine down completely, I'm sure you have to turn everything in a certain direction a certain amount of times. I have a 00 millenia with the 2.5 basically the same engine as you have just newer
Jason Thomas with the timing belt off, you turn the cam gears until they line up with their timing marks. Then you turn the crank until it lines up with its timing mark, make sure cylinder #1 is at top dead center when all these marks line up. Then use the little trick in the video to get the belt on without the timing being off a tooth! Good luck!
Jason Thomas it's a non interference engine so you can spin it either direction with the car in neutral. The engine rotates clockwise, so that's the direction I spun it. Aka, turn it towards the front of the car
louisluigi you need to get all the belt slack on the tensioner side of the crankshaft. Naturally, the belt wants to have an even amount of slack on both sides, you set it a tooth back, so you can move all the slack onto one side of the pulley, and it will be in time :)
louisluigi after you turn it Back, the notch will line up with the arrow. The image I used is not mine, so I'm not sure why it's not set at top dead center
cam banks should set aligned and crank should be slightly off the mark so that when you apply tension to the belt bu turning crank to the right, you end up taking up that slack and THEN the crank mark should be dead on the mark with no slack and the cams aligned as well
Hope you still respond to your youtube, but getting ready to do my probe and I have the hydraulic tensioner. Im just asking to be sure, but after its all together I wont have to adjust the slack in the belt correct? Since its a hydraulic tensioner.
that is correct, it should automatically adjust the tension. The hydro-tensioners tend to go bad so I would recommend replacing it or modifying it to be manually tensioned if I were you
Thanks yeah I watched that one too I appreciate it I really do but going to just put that one in there this time. Getting the manual one for sure next time because I think that's what failed and caused it this time. Thanks buddy
+Threewulphmoon sorry I filmed this video a long time ago. you don't need to remove the cam sprockets to re do the timing. but if you need to take them off, you can stick a screw driver through the spokes of the sprocket, and wedge it under something behind the sprocket. then turn the bolt. I used a hammer to shock it loose. the sprocket is keyed so you can't put it on wrong. and the marks are cast into the sprocket so there is no issue of loosing the timing:) hope this helped!
@@pigeon853 I believe it does. Dude you rock. Thank you for the reply and the video. I've been worried about doing this repair without a manual or any guidance and this looks totally doable. I might even convert the tensioner the way you did on yours. That looks to be the best long-term solution, and much, much cheaper.
curious why u bothered with inserting the stick in cyl 1 to find tdc...The mark on the crank Always points to TDC when aligned with the notch, Piston will always be UP at TDC it cannot be otherwise...Its the CAMS that determine whether its on TDC compression or TDC exhaust stroke....so ...as long as crank notch is lined up with its mark AND cam marks are aligned as well, you cannot go wrong....So Yes, once the belt is on and ALL the marks are aligned, that mark on crank will be TDC on compression with ALL the marks in line every 2nd revolution of crank...
@@pigeon853 true, as far as the crank goes but once the cams are aligned, THEY determine whether its compression stroke or not and aligned cams And crank are Always correct, you cant go wrong that way.
hello, how to adjust crankshaft pulley? because alnahustarbturning the whole engine. I was told of a slot to place a screwdriver. how did you do?
Thanks for the video, great information. I reset the timing everything as you said. I'm having problems putting back the harmonic balancer.(Crank Pulley). How to I stop the crank from moving when I tighten the bolt. Thanks
thanks! glad I could help! I would always get it as tight as I could, and then give it a few snacks with a hammer.
alternatively. maybe you could put it in gear and Jack the driver side wheel onto the ground.
use either a strap wrench around the outer pulley and put car in 5th gear and have a person step on the brakes..between that and the strap wrench u can get 120 ftlbs torque on it...OR you can make a crank pulley holder out of a piece of 3/4 inche wood ..mine is abt 12 inches in length..it has a large hole in the center so i can put a large socket in there to turn the crank and it has 2 smaller holes that line up with those in the center of crank pulley...so i secure the holder with the 2 bolts to the crank , then i position it against either the cv axle or the frame... insert the large socket thru the center and torque away... this type holder will Not stress the rubber in the outer ring of balancer since its secured to the center....1/2 or 3/4" wood by 4" inches wide by 12inches long... best tool ever and makes removing pulley a breeze
@@skip741x3 What do you do if you've got an automatic transmission?
ارجو منكم أن تعملو على تعزيز اليوتيوب بالاناره لنتمكن من رؤية النقاط في الكامات وشكرآآ جزيلاً لكم من لبنان تحياتي لكم
I currently have a problem and no-one can assist. My cams and crank timing marks are currently lined up on TDC however my distributor rotor is pointing to #2 and not to #1 as it's supposed to be causing a huge misfire. I made doubly sure that piston #1 was on TDC with all marks in it's place. Is there a certain way to realign the cams or rotate my motor to get the dizzy rotor to point back to #1 so that my mechanical timing can be corrected?
Remove the distributor and install it in the corect position
I think th distributor only goes on one way. You need to check your mechanical timing. Pull #1 spark plug out and put a rod down onto the piston. Rotate the crank until the rod reaches the top of its stroke. That is top dead center for the pistons. At that moment, the cams should be lined up with their timing marks. If they arnt, then your mechanical timing is off. Rotate the engine over a few times by hand. They should all line up every other rotation if I remember correctly
disty Only goes in 1 way, the right way.. something else is off.. rotate engine and recheck the marks are correct...verify TDC
You can't rotate the dizzy in these at all? No rotate bolt? Really asking by the way not being a smart ass lol
what direction do you turn the cams or crankshaft when alinigning the notches, like say you tore the engine down completely, I'm sure you have to turn everything in a certain direction a certain amount of times. I have a 00 millenia with the 2.5 basically the same engine as you have just newer
Jason Thomas with the timing belt off, you turn the cam gears until they line up with their timing marks. Then you turn the crank until it lines up with its timing mark, make sure cylinder #1 is at top dead center when all these marks line up. Then use the little trick in the video to get the belt on without the timing being off a tooth! Good luck!
I need to know what direction to spin them
Jason Thomas it's a non interference engine so you can spin it either direction with the car in neutral. The engine rotates clockwise, so that's the direction I spun it. Aka, turn it towards the front of the car
non interference means valves can't slap the piston right
Jason Thomas that is correct.
what is the reason for not aligning the notch on the crankshaftpulley with the arrow, as seen @13:38 ? It's timed to late, if you ask me...??
louisluigi you need to get all the belt slack on the tensioner side of the crankshaft. Naturally, the belt wants to have an even amount of slack on both sides, you set it a tooth back, so you can move all the slack onto one side of the pulley, and it will be in time :)
louisluigi after you turn it Back, the notch will line up with the arrow.
The image I used is not mine, so I'm not sure why it's not set at top dead center
cam banks should set aligned and crank should be slightly off the mark so that when you apply tension to the belt bu turning crank to the right, you end up taking up that slack and THEN the crank mark should be dead on the mark with no slack and the cams aligned as well
Hope you still respond to your youtube, but getting ready to do my probe and I have the hydraulic tensioner. Im just asking to be sure, but after its all together I wont have to adjust the slack in the belt correct? Since its a hydraulic tensioner.
that is correct, it should automatically adjust the tension. The hydro-tensioners tend to go bad so I would recommend replacing it or modifying it to be manually tensioned if I were you
I have a video on that as well
Thanks yeah I watched that one too I appreciate it I really do but going to just put that one in there this time. Getting the manual one for sure next time because I think that's what failed and caused it this time. Thanks buddy
How did it go? Were you just changing the timing belt or making some other repair?
how did you get the rear cam sprocket off without removing the valve cover?
I didn't have to remove the rear cam sprocket I don't think
6:20
+Threewulphmoon sorry I filmed this video a long time ago. you don't need to remove the cam sprockets to re do the timing. but if you need to take them off, you can stick a screw driver through the spokes of the sprocket, and wedge it under something behind the sprocket. then turn the bolt. I used a hammer to shock it loose. the sprocket is keyed so you can't put it on wrong. and the marks are cast into the sprocket so there is no issue of loosing the timing:)
hope this helped!
Is this pretty much the same for a 2000 626 V6?
It should be, if it has the KL engine
@@pigeon853 I believe it does. Dude you rock. Thank you for the reply and the video. I've been worried about doing this repair without a manual or any guidance and this looks totally doable. I might even convert the tensioner the way you did on yours. That looks to be the best long-term solution, and much, much cheaper.
Wheres the video for the tensioner conversion
Search "MX6 manual timing tensioner" on UA-cam :)
@@pigeon853 thank you!
@@pigeon853 what happened to your Mazda someone was telling me something about it but I don't want to be wrong and blurt it..
curious why u bothered with inserting the stick in cyl 1 to find tdc...The mark on the crank Always points to TDC when aligned with the notch, Piston will always be UP at TDC it cannot be otherwise...Its the CAMS that determine whether its on TDC compression or TDC exhaust stroke....so ...as long as crank notch is lined up with its mark AND cam marks are aligned as well, you cannot go wrong....So Yes, once the belt is on and ALL the marks are aligned, that mark on crank will be TDC on compression with ALL the marks in line every 2nd revolution of crank...
Good to know. I was always told that when the crank said tdc, piston 1 could be at the bottom, or the top. Better safe than sorry
@@pigeon853 true, as far as the crank goes but once the cams are aligned, THEY determine whether its compression stroke or not and aligned cams And crank are Always correct, you cant go wrong that way.