I noticed that. But you're still alive! I don't have jack stands.. But I pile up boards, or weights, or in a pinch, use two Jack's next to each other. lol Mahalo for the video.. gonna check out my EVAP canister on my Accord. Same location. Aloha
sorry to be so off topic but does anyone know a way to get back into an Instagram account..? I was stupid lost the account password. I love any tricks you can give me!
Hello again, :) well im happy to report i replaced the canister and valve today and the p1457 code is gone. Didnt even have to reset it. So happy. The only problem i ran into was who ever tried to remove the canister before me, stripped the mounted bolt. Fortunately i had been letting the bolt marinate in really good anti seize/rust oil and had the right bolt extractor socket to remove it. Then installed aother bolt i had, put anti seize on it and everything was good to go. Yeah! Ill keep you posted on the remaining projects. Thanks
I started with the gas cap (2001 Honda Accord) like suggested, that wasn't the culprit so I returned it for a refund. I bought the canister set and shut off valve and that didn't solve the problem. BTW the parts you have listed are the exact same part used on my Honda and the Acura parts website is the cheapest place to find these parts. The culprit in my case turned out to be the Purge Control Solenoid Valve P/N 36162-PAA-A02 and is found on the Honda Parts website. Note: This part is for Honda only the part for the Acura requires a different P/N. The location for this is on top of the engine between the valve cover and firewall... Thanks! for the video,it got me going in the right direction to solve the P1457 issue...
Gotta use stands man. I'm teaching my son about car maintenance and preach non stop about making sure you are safe. That jack decides to let go and you are likely dead. Be safe and do not trust your jacks. The tire would be something better than nothing. Think about it. Shit happens and it's ugly when it does
Basically a pretty good video EXCEPT after jacking up the car and removing the tire he never placed a jackstand or other means of supporting the car should the hydraulic jack fail. DANGEROUS!!
He is living dangerously. When I get under my car I even plan for a possible earthquake, just in case. I don't believe how many people get under their car just support by a scissor jack, and some have died.
Literally nobody said you can't test the canister or shut off valve before replacing them, and there are already plenty of other instructional videos on how to do so. All I'm doing is pointing you in the right direction. It's also a well-known fact that the canister and shut off valve will go bad after some time of these vehicles. The canister can clog (meaning it has been doing its job) and the valve can wear out. So there's a very low chance that this won't fix your problem.
Probably true, but the canisters are also known to crack and go bad over time as well. Which is why I tried to mention at 10:22 you could reuse the canister is you really wanted to.
My 97 Accord has a clear code but the EVAP and Catalytic area still in incomplete test despite having more than 500 miles run since connecting the battery back. Anybody help?
All I did is change my oil and the check engine light went off. I have no idea why. The oil pan bolt was loose and it was maybe half a quart low. Other than that I didn't do anything beside tilt the car.
Yes there is potential, but it’s not likely. There isn’t as much fuel vapor in the charcoal as you would think. Being outside where it’s extremely well ventilated makes it even less likely. Unless there was a serious problem with the components where liquid gasoline was making it’s way into the canister and soaking/flooding the carbon, you would definitely know it upon removing the canister and then it would be very unsafe. Briansmobile1 demonstrates this very well. He took a lighter directly to the charcoal and it didn’t burn. Regardless, this was a last resort for me and I wouldn’t recommend it.
I’m sorry replacing the canister and shut valve didn’t work for you. Some other components you could look into testing/replacing are the purge valve and the bypass solenoid valve. It could also be an old cracked rubber hose too for that matter. Having a vacuum pump such as the Mityvac MV8000 can really help narrow down the source of your problem. There are cheaper ones on eBay and Amazon if $45 for the Mitivac is too much, but it’s a really nice tool to have for situations like this
Why would you replace the whole charcoal canister? Did it have a crack in it? Did you check to see that your shut valve solenoid was not closing? You seem to just be buying parts without any diagnosis. My point is... you might have fixed this for $40.
A vast majority of the time, the problem will most likely be a loose or bad gas cap. If that doesn't fix the problem, the shut-off valve is the next likely culprit. However, it's also common practice to just replace both the valve and canister together since both components (at the time) were 19 years old on a car with 225k miles. This is because the canister itself overtime can and does crack or clog like you mentioned, requiring you to do the job all over again. So it's more of a preventative maintenance thing. I did mention briefly mention at 10:23 you could potentially just replace the valve or canister. Thanks for your question and I hope this video otherwise could be helpful!
Hello and thanks for your videos on the 02 Acura Tl type s. I just purchased that exact car with the p1457 code and abs codes. Im marinating the bolts and connectors in penetrating oil and will start the job when i receive the parts. Did the work you did correct the code? I checked the hoses and . They looked ok. Thanks again
Yup! The new canister and shut off valve made the code go away! Of course, I had to use my OBD-II scanner to erase the code in which it never came back. If you disconnect the battery to reset your code, make sure you know your radio passcode so you don't get locked out! Thanks for watching and good luck!
Wow! Great. Now i really feel confident in doing the repair. I too have a scanner to reset codes. Will let you know how i do. Im also using your videos to replace trans filter and clean silenoids, :)
@@carchk2054 That's awesome! That's the first thing I would do too if I purchased another one of these vehicles. Keep up the great work and this car will last you a long time!
What symptoms did you have? I have some type of fuel related problem(random hesitation) and changed pretty much everything (fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, plugs, coils, egr valve, map & tps sensor, rebuilt engine & heads). I don’t have any engine codes
I didn't really have any symptoms, just a check engine light code that needed to go away. Do you use premium fuel? Does it do this at any particular time? Such as when it's cold and still warming up or at a particular speed?
Incin3ration It would happen more frequently on cold starts. 1-2 gear most notably. Yes. Premium fuel, always on time with oil changes. I added some octane booster and it ran great for 60 miles then did it again.
@@luispina6375 It's always hard to say with things like this. Maybe try cleaning the Mass Airflow Sensor as well as the Throttle Body and Idle Air Control Valve (IAC valve). Another thing you could try doing is an ECU reset.
Quick question about the mileage you stated on your car, I know the Second Gen TLs were pretty bad with their transmissions that came from the factory. Has yours had the redesign transmission put in? Just curious, considering getting myself a TL.
I have about 237k miles on my car as of now, original engine and transmission, never rebuilt. There was a recall to install an oil jet kit on the transmission to reduce heat, and my car had this recall done to it. If you look at my Solenoid Screen Filter video, that is the cause for just about everybody's transmission problems. With that finally being discovered, it turns out the transmissions are just fine.
Still a little hesitant of this gen of TL, love the look of them specially the Type and its A-Spec counter part. There is a few for sale in my area and I still see alot of them on the road, but if I would this vintage of Acura I would honestly get an RL since they didn't have that transmission problem.
ShaunMMX If it's a 99 then you won't have the transmission problems unless it's really high mileage like 250k which by then you have gotten all you could ask for out of a transmission that has been in a car that got passed around
Steven Marzullo I agree- most early Honda’s have transmission problems!!! Auto that is ! I have a 98’ Accord Ex. Bought used 3rd owner and transmission been slipping for awhile but I just drive it easy ! 251,000 Miles Running great other than that !
@@ShaunMMX the transmissions in these cars aren’t bad at all tbh they’re on the better end since all it has a dipstick and all transmission components are easily accessible and super easy to change. The people that complained or had problems with the TL probably didn’t change fluid clean the solenoids, pressure switches and filter just like every car I seen some that needed a trans replace before 100,000 and I’ve seen some with 300,000 oem trans
After the repair did you have clear the code with a Scan tool or disconnect the battery? Just did this to my car but with parts from a salvage yard, but code is still active.
Never mind I figured I need to reset code. Just went to Salvage yard and pulled a used one, Canister with Valve on it for $12. and an extra $2 for part return if used is defective. Bought a Lexus and I'm just doing some things to the 99 Acura TL before I pretty much give it away to my friend. Don't want to throw too much money into a Car I'm giving away. Next I have to do the front brakes and replace a Whining but working Power Steering Pump.
i bought these parts on the website and the shut off valve sent looks a lot different than the one in the video.. the canister and screws look the same though. Any thoughts? I have a 03 acura, perhaps that's it... I'll take a look at what my car has on it soon though..
I'm not sure, did you buy the parts from an official Acura parts website? and does the part # match the one in the video? 17310-S0X-A02. Otherwise, it's possible they sent you the wrong part, but the 2002 and 2003 TL use the same shut off valve.
Yes that is another potential component that could cause this code. However you would likely also be experience noticeable engine symptoms as well such as rough idle, difficulty starting the engine, and worsening gas mileage. Without any of those symptoms as well as a CEL that states there’s a leak in the canister area, the vent shut valve and canister is the most likely culprit.
I wouldn't say you absolutely have to, but it is common practice to replace both parts as a pair. Just make sure the threads on your canister look good and to order 2 of those screws.
hmmm not sure why it would come up twice. Never really heard of that before. Could maybe even be a small glitch in the autozone system. But I wouldn't stress it, it is the same code after all. A lot of people have replaced these parts and it has made the code go away! Give it a try, get the code reset, and you most likely should be good to go!
Incin3ration thank.. also I noticed on your paper it says “Evap system leak detected (canister area) On mine it says “evap control system leakage (evap canister area) and in the suggestion it says replace by pass solenoid... will sound this still work or is it something different... ps.. mine is a 03 Civic and this is my first car and wanted to try and replace it myself lol
@@xelementzgaming7171 welcome to the car world! One thing you'll come to find is there can be multiple names for the same part. So the bypass valve I'm pretty darn sure is the same thing as the Shut-off Valve, also called the Vent Shut Valve. It's annoying. I don't know which honda parts website has the best deals, but if you go to hondapartsforless.com, their website is very similar to acurapartsforless.com which is what I really like. Follow the same instructions that I showed in the video, selecting your vehicle year, make model, and trim, then click the headlight to see the exhaust options, and lastly fuel pipe (1). you'll see a similar diagram as shown in my video. There you'll find the canister, "bypass valve", and the screws you need!
Incin3ration yeah so many names for 1 thing it’s stressful lol but what was is that you change? The canister and the shut off valve? Or purge valve? I wanna order everything I need knowing that it’s it
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I’ll come back and update you in case someone has the same issue and a different Honda. I’m not replacing the canister just the shut valve. I smell a lot of gas when the car runs and out the rear.
Use jacks stands people. It was a mistake I made while making this video. I hope it was helpful otherwise!
Great video. Very helpful
IT'S IS
I noticed that. But you're still alive! I don't have jack stands.. But I pile up boards, or weights, or in a pinch, use two Jack's next to each other. lol Mahalo for the video.. gonna check out my EVAP canister on my Accord. Same location. Aloha
sorry to be so off topic but does anyone know a way to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was stupid lost the account password. I love any tricks you can give me!
@Emmanuel Oscar Instablaster ;)
Hello again, :) well im happy to report i replaced the canister and valve today and the p1457 code is gone. Didnt even have to reset it. So happy. The only problem i ran into was who ever tried to remove the canister before me, stripped the mounted bolt. Fortunately i had been letting the bolt marinate in really good anti seize/rust oil and had the right bolt extractor socket to remove it. Then installed aother bolt i had, put anti seize on it and everything was good to go. Yeah! Ill keep you posted on the remaining projects. Thanks
That's awesome man! Good work tackling this job! Very glad to hear it fixed your issue!
Thanks im a lady wrencher its my hobby lol. Everyone always assumes im a guy. Its all good. Robin :)
I started with the gas cap (2001 Honda Accord) like suggested, that
wasn't the culprit so I returned it for a refund. I bought the canister
set and shut off valve and that didn't solve the problem. BTW the parts
you have listed are the exact same part used on my Honda and the Acura
parts website is the cheapest place to find these parts. The culprit in
my case turned out to be the Purge Control Solenoid Valve P/N
36162-PAA-A02 and is found on the Honda Parts website. Note: This part
is for Honda only the part for the Acura requires a different P/N. The
location for this is on top of the engine between the valve cover and
firewall... Thanks! for the video,it got me going in the right direction
to solve the P1457 issue...
I'm glad I could help! And thank you for your comment! This should help other people who are also having any EVAP issues!
nowski186 hi I have a 2000 Honda Accord code 1456 will it be located under hood too....thanks
do not good
I had the same problem, and finally after changing most of the emission parts it was fixed ! Also next time use a Jack stand too!!!!
Thank you for the tip, sir. I'll be sure to check the purge solenoid under the hood, too. I've got a P1457 code on my 2004 Civic right now.
CAREFUL with the lighter on a fuel canister that may be defective . if fully charged with fuel vapours a slight BOOM will occur.
I followed this and fixed my P1457 error :) Thanks again!
Sweet! Glad to see even my older videos are still helping people out!
Those who do not use jack stands become jack stands
I know! I'm sorry! I don't mean to spread bad habits! It was a one time mistake. But I hope the video was helpful otherwise! :)
Glad you are ok 👌. But show and tell was not so good! SAFETY FIRST!!! Always . I didn’t live this long to be losing my limbs- etc. etc...
Gotta use stands man. I'm teaching my son about car maintenance and preach non stop about making sure you are safe. That jack decides to let go and you are likely dead. Be safe and do not trust your jacks. The tire would be something better than nothing. Think about it. Shit happens and it's ugly when it does
Completely 100% true know from personal experience that took me 2 years to recover
You should be able to take the valve apart, clean up the rust where the white o-ring is .. coat of RTV, then fixed (probably).
Most gnarly ViceGips ever ;)
dude that tool is literally older than me lol still works like a charm though!
Thanks for the info. Replaced my canister and valve after a new gas cap didn't fix the issue. Problem solved!
Awesome to hear! Glad my video helped you!
Car has over 200,000 miles and those parts worked perfectly all those years. I wouldn't complain to replace them.
My thoughts exactly! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for your video, man you are awesome
You are very welcome! Glad it was helpful!!
Since you ordered the canister and the vent solinoid, they sent you the o-ring to go with canister.
glad you added the comment of using J stands
Fuel Vapor & Lighter Don't Mix But Great Recipe For A Disaster!!!
Basically a pretty good video EXCEPT after jacking up the car and removing the tire he never placed a jackstand or other means of supporting the car should the hydraulic jack fail. DANGEROUS!!
Never trust Hydraulic jacks, I've seen seals fail and the car drop instantly. Like you said always use a jack stand!
I AGREE- you always put a Jack stand for a back up!!! This video might not have been completed!! To all please don’t just trust the Hydraulic jack . 😳
He is living dangerously. When I get under my car I even plan for a possible earthquake, just in case. I don't believe how many people get under their car just support by a scissor jack, and some have died.
thanks for the video!
You're welcome! Glad it helped!
Great video, sir. Thank you!
You’re welcome! Glad you enjoyed my video!
..buying parts before diagnosing the actual problem?
Literally nobody said you can't test the canister or shut off valve before replacing them, and there are already plenty of other instructional videos on how to do so. All I'm doing is pointing you in the right direction. It's also a well-known fact that the canister and shut off valve will go bad after some time of these vehicles. The canister can clog (meaning it has been doing its job) and the valve can wear out. So there's a very low chance that this won't fix your problem.
Incin3ration Also I did hear you say anything about the mileage !!!!
“How to shotgun parts at a check engine light”
100 % Positive The Issue Was From You Vent Valve Not the Canister Common Code P1457 On All Honda's With High Mileage..
Probably true, but the canisters are also known to crack and go bad over time as well. Which is why I tried to mention at 10:22 you could reuse the canister is you really wanted to.
My 97 Accord has a clear code but the EVAP and Catalytic area still in incomplete test despite having more than 500 miles run since connecting the battery back. Anybody help?
Hope you used a jack stand, as I didn't see one.
This guy works on his car like Gorge of the jungle 😂 😂 just kidding good video very risky but good
All I did is change my oil and the check engine light went off. I have no idea why. The oil pan bolt was loose and it was maybe half a quart low. Other than that I didn't do anything beside tilt the car.
Well that is an interesting correlation lol Glad your CEL went out!
It came back on, I ended up just changing the shutoff valve and the check engine light went away for good this time lol
nice video
thank you!
Is it not dangerous to use heat around the charcoal canister, since it contains gas vapors, which could start a fire.?
Yes there is potential, but it’s not likely. There isn’t as much fuel vapor in the charcoal as you would think. Being outside where it’s extremely well ventilated makes it even less likely. Unless there was a serious problem with the components where liquid gasoline was making it’s way into the canister and soaking/flooding the carbon, you would definitely know it upon removing the canister and then it would be very unsafe. Briansmobile1 demonstrates this very well. He took a lighter directly to the charcoal and it didn’t burn. Regardless, this was a last resort for me and I wouldn’t recommend it.
What if I’ve replaced all parts and still getting a EVAP p1457 code
I’m sorry replacing the canister and shut valve didn’t work for you. Some other components you could look into testing/replacing are the purge valve and the bypass solenoid valve. It could also be an old cracked rubber hose too for that matter. Having a vacuum pump such as the Mityvac MV8000 can really help narrow down the source of your problem. There are cheaper ones on eBay and Amazon if $45 for the Mitivac is too much, but it’s a really nice tool to have for situations like this
I have same problem, but with Honda Civic did it clear your codes?
I've driven about 200 miles since doing this and the CEL has not come back on!
No codes here so far 🙏
THX 4THE UPLOAD
Why would you replace the whole charcoal canister? Did it have a crack in it? Did you check to see that your shut valve solenoid was not closing? You seem to just be buying parts without any diagnosis. My point is... you might have fixed this for $40.
A vast majority of the time, the problem will most likely be a loose or bad gas cap. If that doesn't fix the problem, the shut-off valve is the next likely culprit. However, it's also common practice to just replace both the valve and canister together since both components (at the time) were 19 years old on a car with 225k miles. This is because the canister itself overtime can and does crack or clog like you mentioned, requiring you to do the job all over again. So it's more of a preventative maintenance thing. I did mention briefly mention at 10:23 you could potentially just replace the valve or canister. Thanks for your question and I hope this video otherwise could be helpful!
Hello and thanks for your videos on the 02 Acura Tl type s. I just purchased that exact car with the p1457 code and abs codes. Im marinating the bolts and connectors in penetrating oil and will start the job when i receive the parts. Did the work you did correct the code? I checked the hoses and . They looked ok. Thanks again
Yup! The new canister and shut off valve made the code go away! Of course, I had to use my OBD-II scanner to erase the code in which it never came back. If you disconnect the battery to reset your code, make sure you know your radio passcode so you don't get locked out! Thanks for watching and good luck!
Wow! Great. Now i really feel confident in doing the repair. I too have a scanner to reset codes. Will let you know how i do. Im also using your videos to replace trans filter and clean silenoids, :)
@@carchk2054 That's awesome! That's the first thing I would do too if I purchased another one of these vehicles. Keep up the great work and this car will last you a long time!
What symptoms did you have? I have some type of fuel related problem(random hesitation) and changed pretty much everything (fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, plugs, coils, egr valve, map & tps sensor, rebuilt engine & heads). I don’t have any engine codes
I didn't really have any symptoms, just a check engine light code that needed to go away. Do you use premium fuel? Does it do this at any particular time? Such as when it's cold and still warming up or at a particular speed?
Incin3ration It would happen more frequently on cold starts. 1-2 gear most notably. Yes. Premium fuel, always on time with oil changes. I added some octane booster and it ran great for 60 miles then did it again.
@@luispina6375 It's always hard to say with things like this. Maybe try cleaning the Mass Airflow Sensor as well as the Throttle Body and Idle Air Control Valve (IAC valve). Another thing you could try doing is an ECU reset.
Quick question about the mileage you stated on your car, I know the Second Gen TLs were pretty bad with their transmissions that came from the factory. Has yours had the redesign transmission put in? Just curious, considering getting myself a TL.
I have about 237k miles on my car as of now, original engine and transmission, never rebuilt. There was a recall to install an oil jet kit on the transmission to reduce heat, and my car had this recall done to it. If you look at my Solenoid Screen Filter video, that is the cause for just about everybody's transmission problems. With that finally being discovered, it turns out the transmissions are just fine.
Still a little hesitant of this gen of TL, love the look of them specially the Type and its A-Spec counter part.
There is a few for sale in my area and I still see alot of them on the road, but if I would this vintage of Acura I would honestly get an RL since they didn't have that transmission problem.
ShaunMMX If it's a 99 then you won't have the transmission problems unless it's really high mileage like 250k which by then you have gotten all you could ask for out of a transmission that has been in a car that got passed around
Steven Marzullo I agree- most early Honda’s have transmission problems!!! Auto that is !
I have a 98’ Accord Ex. Bought used 3rd owner and transmission been slipping for awhile but I just drive it easy ! 251,000 Miles
Running great other than that !
@@ShaunMMX the transmissions in these cars aren’t bad at all tbh they’re on the better end since all it has a dipstick and all transmission components are easily accessible and super easy to change. The people that complained or had problems with the TL probably didn’t change fluid clean the solenoids, pressure switches and filter just like every car I seen some that needed a trans replace before 100,000 and I’ve seen some with 300,000 oem trans
After the repair did you have clear the code with a Scan tool or disconnect the battery? Just did this to my car but with parts from a salvage yard, but code is still active.
Never mind I figured I need to reset code. Just went to Salvage yard and pulled a used one, Canister with Valve on it for $12. and an extra $2 for part return if used is defective. Bought a Lexus and I'm just doing some things to the 99 Acura TL before I pretty much give it away to my friend. Don't want to throw too much money into a Car I'm giving away. Next I have to do the front brakes and replace a Whining but working Power Steering Pump.
@@jasonwb6884 yah I had to reset the code manually. Never came back after that! Junkyard parts are a good idea for your purpose!
Did this solve the problem? I have the same car as you, and am getting this code and a p1298
Yup! This fixed the problem. You'll have to manually reset the CEL though, as it wasn't going of by itself.
1st check your fuel cap. That's the easiest 👍🍻
good job
Thanks!
i bought these parts on the website and the shut off valve sent looks a lot different than the one in the video.. the canister and screws look the same though. Any thoughts? I have a 03 acura, perhaps that's it... I'll take a look at what my car has on it soon though..
I'm not sure, did you buy the parts from an official Acura parts website? and does the part # match the one in the video? 17310-S0X-A02. Otherwise, it's possible they sent you the wrong part, but the 2002 and 2003 TL use the same shut off valve.
Purge solenoid it’s pretty easy to get to
Yes that is another potential component that could cause this code. However you would likely also be experience noticeable engine symptoms as well such as rough idle, difficulty starting the engine, and worsening gas mileage. Without any of those symptoms as well as a CEL that states there’s a leak in the canister area, the vent shut valve and canister is the most likely culprit.
Great video, But at least put the tire under the car after jacking it up for safety
do you really need a new canister the old canister looks fine
I wouldn't say you absolutely have to, but it is common practice to replace both parts as a pair. Just make sure the threads on your canister look good and to order 2 of those screws.
Depends on the MILEAGE- I changed mine after 251,000 miles - I don’t know what Honda recommends ! It didn’t break my bank .
Jackstands !!!!!!!!!!!!
Engine light said I need this done. Got my knock sensor replaced then engine light went off.
I had the same code but the autozone paper said
Error codes:
P1457
P1457
Why on mine the code came up twice? Do I have 2 codes??
hmmm not sure why it would come up twice. Never really heard of that before. Could maybe even be a small glitch in the autozone system. But I wouldn't stress it, it is the same code after all. A lot of people have replaced these parts and it has made the code go away! Give it a try, get the code reset, and you most likely should be good to go!
Incin3ration thank.. also I noticed on your paper it says “Evap system leak detected (canister area)
On mine it says “evap control system leakage (evap canister area) and in the suggestion it says replace by pass solenoid... will sound this still work or is it something different...
ps.. mine is a 03 Civic and this is my first car and wanted to try and replace it myself lol
@@xelementzgaming7171 welcome to the car world! One thing you'll come to find is there can be multiple names for the same part. So the bypass valve I'm pretty darn sure is the same thing as the Shut-off Valve, also called the Vent Shut Valve. It's annoying. I don't know which honda parts website has the best deals, but if you go to hondapartsforless.com, their website is very similar to acurapartsforless.com which is what I really like. Follow the same instructions that I showed in the video, selecting your vehicle year, make model, and trim, then click the headlight to see the exhaust options, and lastly fuel pipe (1). you'll see a similar diagram as shown in my video. There you'll find the canister, "bypass valve", and the screws you need!
Incin3ration yeah so many names for 1 thing it’s stressful lol but what was is that you change? The canister and the shut off valve? Or purge valve? I wanna order everything I need knowing that it’s it
@@xelementzgaming7171 canister, shut off valve, and the 2 screws.
9:29 What's the size of the rusted screws?
4:33 They are Screw Washer (5x10) Part number 93893-05010-08. Make sure to set the Quantity to 2.
Gotta do this for my s2000. Fmllll
Hope this solves your issues!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I’ll come back and update you in case someone has the same issue and a different Honda. I’m not replacing the canister just the shut valve. I smell a lot of gas when the car runs and out the rear.
Dude your dangerously dangerous
My cars bent.
that helped me
Glad it worked!!
Dude next time you get under your car please use jack stands to secure your car from falling on top of you.