Restoration of old Cartier Santos. I was shocked when I opened this watch!
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- Опубліковано 9 чер 2022
- Today we are restoring a truly classic watch, the Cartier Santos. Designed as a pilot watch in 1904 by Louis Cartier for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, this watch was not only the first wristwatch designed by Cartier, but also one of the first wristwatches ever. Today, it is one of the most successful watches by Cartier and world-renowned for its classic design.
The watch in this video is a Santos lady watch, which is heavily scratched and shows signs of heavy-use. It features an ETA-movement 2670. The dial is beautifully aged with wonderful patina. We are attempting to restore it to near new condition - and in the process, I discovered an unexpected surprise inside…
As always, thank you very much for watching. If you would like to support my channel, please consider liking the video, leaving a comment and subscribing to the channel.
The tools used are listed below. Kindly note that the links are affiliate links, that means that I will earn a small commission if you purchase an item through the link. This helps me make more videos like this!
Tools:
Microscope (gifted by Linkmicroscope): amzn.to/3ClPjQV
Movement holder: amzn.to/3MDGndl
Rubber Ball: amzn.to/39PUmhH
Watch Case Cushion: amzn.to/3LFl7lT
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Rodico Dry Cleaner: amzn.to/38AJTqc
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Case back opener: amzn.to/3NX908a
Case back opener RLX: amzn.to/3pvUif2
Bergeon cleaning stick: amzn.to/44qW4No
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Bergeon screwdriver: amzn.to/3K54GSj
Watch parts box: amzn.to/3CWusE3
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Oil:
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Camera:
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#restoration #watchrepair #reviving #cartier #asmr - Розваги
It takes some Time to Watch these repairs and I've been Watching these remarkable Watches come back to life!!
Never thought Watch making videos are so calming since I love all types of watches but enjoy learning about them!
Thanks sharing great job!! 🐣
To dive in this tiny parts is amazing... thank you for watching. I appreciate it 😊
Maintaining watches is one of the most relaxing videos on UA-cam
A big thank you
Very happy to hear that ☺️
Theses vídeos always remember me the game "The thief" 1, 2, 3 and 4. The 3 was sublime....
One of my favourite watches! The restoration proves how well built they are, and the quality of materials used must make them 'easier' to restore?
Thanks for watching! You are correct, the parts fit perfectly and you can find replacement parts even years down the line ☺️
Best looking Santos in that era. Good job restoring it
Thank you ☺️
Nicely done. This is one tiny mouvement. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you so much, Serge! It's a very beautiful watch ☺️
I absolutely love a polished Watch Waymore than a brushed watch, but I have to say absolutely amazing work my friend. Just amazing
Thank you for the wonderful compliment, I appreciate it 😊
Another great video on a lovely timepiece and a beautiful transformation from before to after.
Once again, camera work is on point and so clear to see each component you’re working on. 👍
I look forward to your next!
Thank you so much for the kind words and continued encouragement! ☺️
Very nice video !! I’m surprised too that an ETA movement or have not Cartier signature on it ! Anyway this is a very nice movement to work on ! Love the final result, as we saw…her beauty back again !! Thanks for sharing !!
Thank you so much, Alain! It is indeed beautiful watch with a very nice movement :)
I haven't even finished the video and wow, the camera work is so great! Thanks a lot for studying all the possible positions of the camera work for us to understand how the watch works and all the tiny little pieces. Thanks also for sharing your work with us! It's nice to see that more and more people are just coming along here on UA-cam to share their work on watches (either restoring them or giving them a good service).
Also, where do you get your watches to be restored or serviced? eBay?
Thank you so much for taking the time to write this wonderful feedback, makes it all worth! Also love seeing so many great watchmakers on UA-cam ☺️
I get some watches on Ebay, others are from my personal collection or from friends and family :)
I also really like what you have to say on this channel, because that’s what I mean. Thank you very much.
Really enjoyed watching this Master! Incredible skill and talent!
Thank you so much 😊
What an interesting video, I had to watch until the end. Thank you!
So happy to hear that! ☺️
Merci pour :
- ces images si précises,
- pour le travail,
- pour la méthode quasi pas à pas de restauration et même de réparation
- le choix de la montre (Cartier, le bijoutier des Rois et le roi des bijoutiers)
En outre, ces vidéos sont calmes :-))))
Un grand merci pour ce message très gentil! ☺️☺️☺️
Absolutely beautiful, excellent work ☺️☺️
Thank you, Robert ☺️☺️
I probably need to buy a Cartier Santos...BTW your macro work is excellent.
Thank you for the feedback, Martti! Best of luck for the purchase 😉
Great subject!
I have a Santos Or & Acier, and yes the dial age beautifully and the gold bezel, while having visible scratches still takes the light like few others.
Thank you Phil! Lovely to hear that you enjoy your watch 😊
No words.... just wow!!!
Thank you so much, Jay 😊
Beautiful watch I used to have one of these .
It is indeed! :)
Still such a classic!
Agreed! 😊
I liked the close up shots. That is better than other watch videos.
Thank you for the feedback! Glad you enjoyed the camera work :)
Many thanks for the video! Very interesting to see old watches opened up now and again. Having collected old Cartier's back from the 70's-90's back in the day...It does look like the original movement was indeed replaced. Concord Watch company made watches for Cartier back in the 70's up until the 80's I believe. I don't know who took over from there, the way you could tell is that the manufacturer's stamp was on the movement, not Cartier's name!
Thanks for watching and your comment! After further research it turns out that the movement was indeed replaced with a standard ETA movement 😓
Goodness...I guess beauty is only skin deep here. Still it's a nice watch.
Well done; reminds me of my youth when I went from Cartier Tank a couple times to the Santos. Still have the original box... rarely worn since Apple Watch (sorry just need the health info.); and I might part with my Santos (exactly like the one you restored only newer I think..automatic.. and serviced twice by Cartier directly). Anyway great video of the restoration.
Really amazing work!
Thank you so much, Eddie ☺️
Nice restoration. Thank you.
Thank you so much!
Young boy , brilliant work .
Thank you
Beautiful work.
Thank you ☺️
Very nice looks brand new santos Catier👍
Thank you ☺️
Have a nice day
beautiful watch , nice work
Thank you! Cheers!
Excellent job !
Many thanks!
Great job, especially on the brushed and polished finish. Sadly there are so many over polished ones out there. - Yes, the movement does not hack.
I try always to find a way to polish and made the watch looks decent again but not to over polish it. Sometimes it's hard without laser welding because of very deep scratches.
Thank you so much for watching and kind words ☺️
Great job!
Thank you so much 😊
Maravilla saludos cordiales de Manaus Amazonas Brasil!!!!!!!!❤️
Thank you, Xavier! ☺️☺️☺️
Fascinating video, very interesting indeed and just shows the skill required to be a watch maker/repairer. Thank yoy
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it! ☺️
Very nice video to watch. I like automatic watch and you have done great job
Thank you, Majid! ☺️
That was quite a meditation watching that!
Glad you enjoyed it ☺️
Super Sie sind ein Toller Uhrmacher Chapeau
Dankeschön ☺️
Nicely done 👍
Thanks! ☺️
GREAT VIDEO THANK YOU
Thank you, Terry! ☺️☺️
Very interesting, I watched the whole video, thankyou.
Thank you, glad you're enjoying the content ☺️
great job
Thank you!
Found the identical watch in all stainless with eta movement. Gave it to my girlfriend. Hopefully she keeps me around.
For sure she will 😊
Very cool. 😊
Thank you ☺️
Class!
Thank you!
Great job !!! Bravo !!!! 👏 👏 👏 Love your content !
Thank you very much ☺️
@@MagicWatchmaking where are u located? I have some Cartiers to get it done like that one 😉
Austria 🇦🇹
I don’t offer any customer related services.
Fair enough! Vielen Danke ! @@MagicWatchmaking
Shouldn't you have tried to restore the original brushing of the Santos' metal bracelet/case rather than polishing the whole watch until it shines? Now without the brushed finish it doesn't look like original Santos from the era and surely because of that it dropped in value.
The original brushing was scratched. The proper method is to remove all scratches and refinish the parts, to achieve a finish that looks near orginal. The finishing by Cartier or other watch manufacturers is done with the same method!
@@MagicWatchmaking ok, thank you for your response!
Lovely job! Can you get replacement baskets and seals for these?
Thank you ☺️
Gaskets and parts are still available for this model
Espetacular
Thank you ☺️
Beauty
Definitely 😊
Perfecto!
Thank you, Maria!
Ah, another Fuji man. Nice!!
They are the best in my opinion!
I believe "hacking" was, for quite some time, a function mostly found in military watches and it was comparatively recently that it became a widely desired feature in most mechanical watches. Thus, the "no seconds stop."
In ETA movements it is de facto standard nowadays. Thank you for watching 😊
nice job, thanks for sharing....you don't see much of Carties service videos...did you replace the crowngaskets as well?
I did! :)
I Love Cartier ..🇮🇩
They make beautiful watches 😊
wow!
Thank you, Brent!
Beatiful restoration video from a skilled craftsman. I have this exact watch, given to me by my late father. He bought it in 1983. Its in dire need of restoration but no watch repair shop wants to touch it. What should I do?
Thank you so much for the wonderful compliment! I recommend contacting Cartier directly :)
Send it to Nekkid watchmaker. The best in the business.
Nice Tutorial👍🏼
Which Solution you use for the Ultrasonic cleaner?
ELMA Luxury Clean EC90
Thank you for watching ☺️
Thank You, For another great video, I have one question if you do not mind, I noticed that you lubricated the Rubber Gasket that seals the Rear Cover, But you did not Lubricate the Square Red Gasket that goes under and around the Front screw down Cover, Is there a reason it cannot be Lubed?.
Lubricant under the crystal may spread out and make the crystal hazy or impacting the dial. Thank you for watching.
Have a great day ☺️
awesome video!! where do you get the tape pre cut into dots at?
By my watch part’s supplier here in Austria.
Thank you for watching ☺️
Wonderful work. Watched it for the 3rd time already. :))
Quick question: Which screwdriver did you use to upen up the case screws on the back? I want to purchase a Bergeon but sadly I dont know which diameter I need for that :/
Thank you so much for kind words and watching ☺️
I have 2 screwdriver sets. One is made by Horotec (01.218.E). The second one is Bergeon (30081.S9).
The Bergeon is equipped with T-Blades and I used only for sensitive (eg. gold) screws. The Horotec is my daily tool.
The most common blades for wristwatches are: 0.80, 1.00, 1.20 and 1.40.
I recently tried to help a friend sell her Santos. It's the same as this one but all stainless steel. The dealer had her watchmaker look inside. It had an ETA movement with a Cartier decorated rotor weight.
Anyway they weren't 100% sure in the watch so passed on it. One thing they'd never seen was the inked case back engraving.
The recommendation was to have it serviced with Cartier to be sure. I'm not sure she ever did. I did get a couple of photos of the inside if you're interested.
Thank you for the info and for the email! Super informative ☺️☺️☺️
The genuine movements are ETA made for this with a Cartier rotor
Nice toy for a nice person .
It turned out very nice. Thank you so much for watching 😊
Beautiful Cartier Santos.
Agreed :)
If memory serves, all production Cartier watches utilize ETA movements, except for the Ballon Bleu. The Ballon Bleu indeed uses an inhouse Cartier movement.
Thank you for letting me know! Unfortunately, it did turn out that the movement was replaced, the original movement does look a lot more luxe than the one in this video 🙁
Do you recommend a restoration of a Santos? I have inherited one from my late father😢, who recently passed away. It's pretty used and his favorite watch
If you like the watch why not… restoring the watch is a good way to bring the watch back near to it’s original conditions and enjoy it for many many years to come ☺️
Thank you for watching.
Have a great day ☺️
Question : At 23:02 - the pins that hold the bracelete to the case, how do you remove them ? are they friction fit? or are they tapered and must be removed from one side only?
I have a Santos automatique that doesn't seem to stay wound up and loses reserve after about 2 hours of not moving. Time for a full service right?
Yes! friction fit. For your watch service will be necessary.
Thank you for watching ☺️
This seems to be the Lady's size, how much and how long would it take the overhaul the full size?
Great work.
Thank you for watching. This is the lady watch. I assume needed time will be same
The full size version will either have the same movement or a superior version of the ETA 2000.
To answer your question, the balancing piece of the Cartier did not have the Cartier engraving.
Some parts may be from Sandoz Swiss Watch.
Thank you for letting us know ☺️
Did you remove the small hair at the cannon pinion? while installing the keyless? Other than that great restoration.
Thank you for the compliment! It was not visible even with the loupe! I only saw it when reviewing the footage and went back to remove it off-camera. The quality of the lense is insane 🤯
@@MagicWatchmaking I work under a microscope and it has worked wonders to see things like dust and such which weren't visible with a loupe. The camera on the microscope helps me taking pictures during dissasembly. I'm just a newby but learning fast.
Thank you for the tip, I'll try it!
Great video! QQ - how do you remove the bracelet from the case? I own a Santos and would love to put it on a leather strap from time to time, but I can't figure out how to remove the bracelet.
Thank you for watching. I used a press… (Horotec 10.500) for assembling and disassembling bracelet pins
I have 2 Santos and a Roadster. If you look under the hinge there is a little metal spring that yo can pull with a finger nail. Then the bracelet lifts out.
Hi. Really interesting video. There are not that many Cartier repair videos online. I am currently working on a similar model and I have issues with the case screws as they are completely rusted and attached to the case. Have you had any issues removing them in the first place? Also, the strap bar has screws attached at the ends or it needs to be pushed out? The whole watch has been sitting for a while and there are numerous rusted points unfortunately.
Just realised that the bar its friction fitted which is not ideal as there is run inside probably. Any tips and trick for removing rusted screws? I have tried small quantifies of lubricant but it has been in vain.
Lubricant is a good solution. In my Seiko video I had to deal with a lot of rust. Maybe you find a solution there helps you to solve your problem.
ua-cam.com/video/tXKbhTavGtA/v-deo.htmlsi=ypqhcblFCy6v2FOQ
Where did you get the little yellow screw protector stickers?
This dots are made by a company called "Ideal Tape Co". I bought them by my watch parts supplier.
Thank for watching ☺️
Have a great day
Hello. Tell me, please, how did you wash the watch parts? Ultrasonic or centrifuge? If there is no centrifuge, is it possible to do with only ultrasound? Thank you.
I'm using Elmasolvex RM. It is a rotation and oscillation machine. Have a look on my Omega video to see it.
The old Santos's use ETA movements or quartz. Only the 2018 models use cartier inhouse movements.
ETA movement without any sign of Cartier. Not even the name of the brand on the rotor?
I've never seen peg wood used to steady the movement holder like that. Was that to avoid obstructing the view for the camera? It's surprising how the movement is completely devoid of any fine finishing.
You are exactly right! Otherwise my fingers would have covered the view ☺️
A very kind subscriber reached out to me with photos of a Cartier movement, it was a lot more luxe. The movement in this watch was replaced :/
@@MagicWatchmaking Yes, I thought it had been replaced - the quality of the movement generally is not what you would expect from a Cartier. It looks especially bad with extreme close-up.
hello great job! how did you make the ribbon circles? the form
I didn't made them I bought them. The dots protection are available in different sizes.
Thank you for watching ☺️
Hello, I just see that you answered me, thank you very much for answering me. Where can I buy them or on which website to order them? Thanks in advance I write with the translator, maybe there is an error in my message thank you😅
Thank you for the video. How you have removed the bracelet? I can't find way to romove bracelet on my watch
It is friction fit. At minute 7:07 and 22:58 I show how it fits
@@MagicWatchmaking thank you, perfect!
très bon travail a combien ce monte une restauration comme celle ci merci
Thank you for watching. This restoration was for fun and challenge. No cost calculation was done.
Since it was Cartier's first watch, do you think they may have outsourced the movement??
this particular model was not Cartier's first watch, but the first watch they produced was a Santos about sixty years before this model was released. Until 2010 Cartier had never produced an in house movement and even today 95% of Cartier watches have ETA movements.
I’ve done the same
Are the current Santos models still using ETA movements?
I believe yes.
@@MagicWatchmaking If they are then the Santos is way overpriced, the larger steel Santos are close to 10k in Canada.I guess when comeone buys a Cartier watch, it's not so much haut horology, but more like a fashion statement.
How long did it take to perform the whole job?
It took a few hours, but it's difficult to say, because filming takes up a lot of time!
Looking at the way the watch was polished I think the channel should be called Magic Watchdestroying
Thank you so much for watching and kind words ☺️
Have a nice day
Just curious, approximately what year model Santos is this? Thanks!
First lunch of this Cartier Santos was 1978. 1987 it was relaunched. Cartier Santos excites until today.
I don’t know in which year this particular watch was produced.
Thank you for watching ☺️
Anybody else notice the the thin cross in the "X" for 10:00 is actually "Cartier"?
Yes, that's a sign that the dial is original Cartier :)
@@MagicWatchmaking Inscribed at either the 10 or 7 o'clock positions
is this a 24mm Santos de Cartier Carree?
how does this effect the value of the watch being that they installed an ETA movement, or just the oscillating weight ??
That’s unclear… if someone in past has had changed the oscillation weight or the complete movement.
Maybe the value is effected… I can’t say!
Thank you for watching ☺️
great video @@MagicWatchmaking
How many hours did it take you to do this ?
It was about a days work, including camera work! :)
@@MagicWatchmaking hahaha, I see you didn’t mention how long editing takes 🤣
Is the ratchet wheel and charging wheel engagement correct? Why the charging wheel has its teeth that bigger than the ratchet wheel?
The ratchet and crown wheel are correct and are like this by movement design.
Thank you, in my little experience I never seen a design like this before. What are the benefits from this king of coupling?
The most ETA 28xx like movement are like this. What are the benefits I can’t tell exactly. I assume it’s a gear to reduce the winding movements from the crown to the ratchet wheel.
Same thing happened to me. I found Cartier quartz but someone had switched the original movement to a FE one. No, it was not a fake Cartier.
So sorry to hear that ☹️
@@MagicWatchmaking I buy a lot of junk and often find nice watches to restore so it didn't cost me anything but it's a shame on such a nice watch.
,,are you sure it wasn't a fake? The vast majority of watches signed Cartier are fakes and I've have seen fakes fitted with FE movements.
@@binkyboobosh1 It all looks legit with a silver case and screws on the side. Doesn't matter that much as its value isn't much as is.
@@sirbum1918 ...the fakes are everywhere. The Cartier is the classic 'cruise watch' where staff or passengers try to con money out of people. Also, Cartier movements are slightly off the standard ligne shape so that movements can't easily be replaced without an adaption of the case. The dial will be glued on as Cartier off set their dial foot locating holes. Cartier manufacture their own quartz movements in an arrangement with Ebel. Check if the case has been chopped about and if the dial is loose or glued and you should have your answer.
Maybe a replacement rotor/movement. Up until the late 1980s those watches came with a lifetime warranty to the original purchaser.
It does seem like it was replaced with a standard movement, as the finishing on the Cartier movement is a lot more luxe!
Do you happen to have any watch friends in the uk I can service mine?
Sorry, I don't know any UK watchmakers!
is this the case I told you few days ago about an ETA with a Cartier weight?
The original one is still an ETA?
Still a nice watch with ETA or other movement.
Thank you for watching
Some bezels were only gp. Interesting
Where can I buy the protective dots
I bought my dots by my local watch part distributor.
Thanks for the information
End game...
Is Epilam the same thing as "One Dip" ?
Epilam (or Fixodrop) is surface treatment. Let oil stay in place. One Dip (or B. Dip) is highly refined solvent for cleaning. E.g. jewels
polishing by machine has damaged the edges around the Screws ... should have been done by hand.
I did not watch the end of this . How much of this watch mechanism did Cartier make ?
It looks like someone switched the entire movement with a standard ETA movement
@@MagicWatchmaking I would not be suprised if this eta was in fact the original movt. It would be difficult to fit the dial to a different mechanism . Thanks for your reply
Whats the screw driver size? I have the balloon watch, I cant screw out.
Which screwdriver you mean?
While working I use different ones.
@@MagicWatchmaking I got it it is 1.4mm
It is not in-house made movement but ETA’s.
They are etas but usually the top grade. The rotor is usually signed Cartier.This movement looks very standard.
👌👌👍👍
Thank you ☺️ cheers