My friend had one of these and the fabric only last 2 years. He bought another one and about a week after I helped him put it up, we coated the fabric with yellow flex-seal. A week later we gave it a second coat. Now, six year later and still no issues. He also covered the rachet straps with plastic so they do not get weathered. The two major flaws with these are the fabric and the anchors. If you buy extra anchors and coat the fabric, its great.
We live in a very windy, desert area and my first canopy didn't make it through the first windy night. It was installed as per the instructions. I put up a second one due to needing to keep a vehicle out of the desert sun and the fact that these are well priced. I got some light aluminum angle that didn't cost me anything and used those pieces to reenforce the entire top, at angles, front to back. I also through-bolted every pipe in the entire structure. I drilled through the poles and added my own hardware that I had in the garage. I definitely recommend through-bolting the entire thing, it makes it much, much more solid and most guys have hardware lying around. The bottom poles that hold the canopy down on each side also got through-bolted. I took the bottom poles from the first canopy that got destroyed and created a second level of support a few feet above the bottom poles. Luckily, they didn't get twisted badly like most of the first canopy did and they have created an entire second row of structure support, front to back. I placed them about 4 ft. off the ground. I also used some extra cinder blocks that I had and buried them flush with the ground and put the supplied anchors inside the cement so they hardened in place without any further digging, etc.. The anchors being cemented into the cinder blocks holds everything down, even if you had to buy the 8 cinder blocks they are only a few dollars each. Cement is less that $4 dollars a bag and only required a few bags. I saw a video on UA-cam in which a guy used ratcheting tie-downs to reenforce his canopy and I did the same at angles going from the top corner to the bottom opposite corner for strength, I used 6 of the tie-downs. I did not put the front or back cover on the canopy to allow the wind to blow through without tugging on the canopy and still keeping the sun out. It also allows me to monitor any critter activity around my vehicle as well. This reenforced canopy looks great and is structurally super sound. It hasn't moved through very windy days and nights and keeps my vehicle out of the sun. Watch different videos about this Harbor Freight car canopy and plan ahead. If you have supplies lying around or you spend a few dollars on a few extras, you should have a very strong, solid, decent looking garage/storage structure. The couple of extra minutes/hours you put in at the beginning will give you an inexpensive structure that should last quite a while.
Yeah you definitely have to keep the snow off of them. But that's going to be any canopy like this. The metal is light and there are no kickers to help with that.
@@natesworld814 I found if I secure it from the top four corners to the ground anchors it holds up better, but I also have a 10x18 ft white tarp draped over the top and strapped down firmly to protect the main canopy from sun deterioration. I have the 10x10 model.
Do you think if you would use self-tapping screws at every joint and connecting place as you put it together, it would be stronger and you won’t have to worry about the carriage bolts and it falling over as you put it together.
I think if I put another one up I would tape the rafters before putting on the legs and then screw the legs, feet and bracing just to help it in the wind. When the wind blows it can rotate on all of the loose joints. It hasn't been a major problem but still something I might go back and do someday
I didn't have an issue with mis-reading the picture which kinda looked like the rafter tubes going "through" the rear and front covers, but what I had an issue with was the bottom of the back wall. It appears as though there is a provision to add a strap through the rear bottom wall but none was provided and none was made available. This is odd as the wall could use re-enforcement in that area to provide some rigidity to the wall. I did exactly that and tied each end to the corner posts. Unfortunately, this could not be done with the front wall.
If your talking about the door that would be a great idea I think may be a little short but it would defiantly be better then nothing. That's great to hear thank you
Nice video! How does it do with keeping heat out? Do you think it could support a few lights hanging? Nothing crazy just some small detailing LED light bars so you could see better. I’m in market for a good canopy to use when detailing cars since it gets really hot and it rains a lot here.
I wish it had doors on both ends because it does get a bit warm but your not in the direction sun and your out of the rain and I had to do some engine work so that's why I got it I would say it would easily hold a few light bars you will have to careful how you hang them though you wont want them rubbing on the tarp and if you put holes in the pipe it could weaken them
Well I figured if you could tell me the highest peak (which I guess you say is 8 1/2 ft) and the wall height (6 1/2 ft) then I could figure out the length of the sloped piece, assuming the whole thing is 10 ft wide. I will consider that the straight pipes are shorter than the given dimensions, and allow for the connectors and slip fitting. All the numbers are worn off of the pieces. Having trouble making sense of them all. Oh well. Thanks for your help.
@@natesworld814 I’m thinking of using one as a workshop in Florida just to keep the sun off me, but was curious if adding another tarp possibly underneath with the pink foam insulation panels between on roof mainly would be sufficient to make it like 80 instead 180 lol
You could probably get the foam board between the tarp and frame. I have considered roofing spray foam but I don't know what the temperature is as it actives. But if it didn't melt the tarp it would be 100% stronger
I watched somebody put his up 2 times never correct and keeps coming apart cause he didn’t use self drilling screws on each connection and wind picks it up and moved it a lot- wouldn’t waist money on it after watching the weather keep destroying that one
Once it's together and anchored down it's stronger then I was expecting. If I were to put up another one I will definitely screw it together to help with it shifting in the wind. What worries me about it is snow load because the pipes are so thin
@@natesworld814 yep cause we had lots of rain and I watched that thing start flying and then the rain piled up on the top and down it came just 3 days after it was up (the wrong way) and it hit the ground. It’s stayed like that 3 wks then code enforcement made them do something w it and he and 6 others did another sorry job of installing(even worse) and wind rips it apart more, he has zip ties holding it lol but it’s tearing up more and the back frame ripped off (no self drilling screws). I told several UA-cam could be his best friend if he would look at it but guess he don’t 🤷♀️
@@DavidHernandez-ue4fz I took it down in November because I built a full shed and now it’s used for my boat storage on other property. Even after all this time and southern weather (tornados and hail) it has held up great. I ziptied all of the sides on bottom and cut holes in the top around the pipe to make the tarp more tight. It has held up great all this time. I’ll probably buy another one if this one messes up
It's been great even the weak spot in the side wall hasn't changed I did move it under some pine trees to aid in keeping it out of direct weather but it still gets hit by a good amount of wind and had maybe 6" of snow on it and it has changed
Self drilling screws, about 5 dollars a pack work good. The hex head ones are easiest to install but be aware that the fabric of the canopy won't like the heads that well. The pipes slipped on will come out, even taping them doesn't help so screwing or bolting is the good option. That may well be why these fail on people because they don't do that.
I've watched very many of these set-up videos and laugh at everyone putting the lower supports on and have to take them off to put it through the cover. Yours is the fifth video that I've seen do that. Also do yourself a favor and put screws in all the pieces to hold them together.
@@natesworld814 I just took it back got a refund.......the end cap walls, that attach to the side and roof poles had too small of a hole. Basically the poles wouldn't slide into to the loop for the walls
This Harbour Frieght Tent is a flimsy piece of crap that they do not want to be responsible for. Can anyone tell how to make this weak tent strong enough to resist weak wind?
My friend had one of these and the fabric only last 2 years. He bought another one and about a week after I helped him put it up, we coated the fabric with yellow flex-seal. A week later we gave it a second coat. Now, six year later and still no issues. He also covered the rachet straps with plastic so they do not get weathered. The two major flaws with these are the fabric and the anchors. If you buy extra anchors and coat the fabric, its great.
Is the flex seal in a spray can?
@@Mishakol1290 Bucket
@@gchsbus you think it would hold AC on hot summer day ???
@@fishfullthinkin127 Not unless you insulated the inside
We live in a very windy, desert area and my first canopy didn't make it through the first windy night. It was installed as per the instructions. I put up a second one due to needing to keep a vehicle out of the desert sun and the fact that these are well priced. I got some light aluminum angle that didn't cost me anything and used those pieces to reenforce the entire top, at angles, front to back. I also through-bolted every pipe in the entire structure. I drilled through the poles and added my own hardware that I had in the garage. I definitely recommend through-bolting the entire thing, it makes it much, much more solid and most guys have hardware lying around. The bottom poles that hold the canopy down on each side also got through-bolted. I took the bottom poles from the first canopy that got destroyed and created a second level of support a few feet above the bottom poles. Luckily, they didn't get twisted badly like most of the first canopy did and they have created an entire second row of structure support, front to back. I placed them about 4 ft. off the ground. I also used some extra cinder blocks that I had and buried them flush with the ground and put the supplied anchors inside the cement so they hardened in place without any further digging, etc.. The anchors being cemented into the cinder blocks holds everything down, even if you had to buy the 8 cinder blocks they are only a few dollars each. Cement is less that $4 dollars a bag and only required a few bags. I saw a video on UA-cam in which a guy used ratcheting tie-downs to reenforce his canopy and I did the same at angles going from the top corner to the bottom opposite corner for strength, I used 6 of the tie-downs. I did not put the front or back cover on the canopy to allow the wind to blow through without tugging on the canopy and still keeping the sun out. It also allows me to monitor any critter activity around my vehicle as well. This reenforced canopy looks great and is structurally super sound. It hasn't moved through very windy days and nights and keeps my vehicle out of the sun. Watch different videos about this Harbor Freight car canopy and plan ahead. If you have supplies lying around or you spend a few dollars on a few extras, you should have a very strong, solid, decent looking garage/storage structure. The couple of extra minutes/hours you put in at the beginning will give you an inexpensive structure that should last quite a while.
Saw in another video a guy put a aluminum pole at the bottom of the doorway to help roll it up.
Backwards there shouldn't be a bump on every post The metal bar is supposed to be up there
Slight a piece of PVC tubing through the door makes it easier to roll up and when it's closed makes it the bottom rigid
Great video you took the time to make it easier for the next guy to put one up.
Thank you
A simple fix for the pipes coming apart during assembly is to duct tape the joints. And for the door flap, run a pice of 3/4” pvc through the bottom.
I like the tape idea. What do you mean by through the bottom? Are you cutting into the hemmed bottom?
THATS WHAT IVE GOT AND IT LASTED 1/2 WINTER AND SNOW DESTROYED IT
Yeah you definitely have to keep the snow off of them. But that's going to be any canopy like this. The metal is light and there are no kickers to help with that.
Materials UV treatment!???????
I didn't use the cable with the anchors as I just used a ratchet strap holding the frame down from the top in each corner
I like them just for the extra bit of safety, but I'm not really sure they do much. If they are needed, the thing is probably already trashed.
@@natesworld814 I found if I secure it from the top four corners to the ground anchors it holds up better, but I also have a 10x18 ft white tarp draped over the top and strapped down firmly to protect the main canopy from sun deterioration. I have the 10x10 model.
Do you think if you would use self-tapping screws at every joint and connecting place as you put it together, it would be stronger and you won’t have to worry about the carriage bolts and it falling over as you put it together.
I think if I put another one up I would tape the rafters before putting on the legs and then screw the legs, feet and bracing just to help it in the wind. When the wind blows it can rotate on all of the loose joints. It hasn't been a major problem but still something I might go back and do someday
I didn't have an issue with mis-reading the picture which kinda looked like the rafter tubes going "through" the rear and front covers, but what I had an issue with was the bottom of the back wall. It appears as though there is a provision to add a strap through the rear bottom wall but none was provided and none was made available. This is odd as the wall could use re-enforcement in that area to provide some rigidity to the wall. I did exactly that and tied each end to the corner posts. Unfortunately, this could not be done with the front wall.
Yes as time goes on that back wall has been my biggest complaint I believe it needs tubing like the sides have to lock everything together
¹
Nice truthful video! Thx for posting!
Glad you liked it!
I’d put an old broom stick in it. But you helped me out bro. Thanks
If your talking about the door that would be a great idea I think may be a little short but it would defiantly be better then nothing. That's great to hear thank you
Nice video! How does it do with keeping heat out? Do you think it could support a few lights hanging? Nothing crazy just some small detailing LED light bars so you could see better. I’m in market for a good canopy to use when detailing cars since it gets really hot and it rains a lot here.
I wish it had doors on both ends because it does get a bit warm but your not in the direction sun and your out of the rain and I had to do some engine work so that's why I got it
I would say it would easily hold a few light bars you will have to careful how you hang them though you wont want them rubbing on the tarp and if you put holes in the pipe it could weaken them
Good advice
Thank you
There are 2 green ropes that don't seem to be used.. What are they for?
I dont recall getting any rope with mine
Put on the eyelids on roof tarp to pull it over without assistance and without a ladder
@@garypartain3045 the problem is the new turps do not have the eyelids anymore
Staple a 2x2 to the bottom of the door and it will roll up nicely.
You would think after a year plus I would have done this already 🤣 maybe someday
1) what's the measurement from the peak at highest to the top of the side ?
2) whats the of the height of the sides ?
About 8½' and 6½'
@@natesworld814 if e understand each other, then this is very helpful info for me. Thank you.
Wait no the more I read it I think your asking for the length of the roof from peak to wall?
The wall hight is 6½
Well I figured if you could tell me the highest peak (which I guess you say is 8 1/2 ft) and the wall height (6 1/2 ft) then I could figure out the length of the sloped piece, assuming the whole thing is 10 ft wide. I will consider that the straight pipes are shorter than the given dimensions, and allow for the connectors and slip fitting.
All the numbers are worn off of the pieces. Having trouble making sense of them all. Oh well. Thanks for your help.
Hey you think it would hold AC on hot summer day ???
I mean I'm sure you could probably get the temperature lower but it's not going to hold the temperature.
@@natesworld814 I’m thinking of using one as a workshop in Florida just to keep the sun off me, but was curious if adding another tarp possibly underneath with the pink foam insulation panels between on roof mainly would be sufficient to make it like 80 instead 180 lol
You could probably get the foam board between the tarp and frame.
I have considered roofing spray foam but I don't know what the temperature is as it actives. But if it didn't melt the tarp it would be 100% stronger
I watched somebody put his up 2 times never correct and keeps coming apart cause he didn’t use self drilling screws on each connection and wind picks it up and moved it a lot- wouldn’t waist money on it after watching the weather keep destroying that one
Once it's together and anchored down it's stronger then I was expecting. If I were to put up another one I will definitely screw it together to help with it shifting in the wind. What worries me about it is snow load because the pipes are so thin
@@natesworld814 yep cause we had lots of rain and I watched that thing start flying and then the rain piled up on the top and down it came just 3 days after it was up (the wrong way) and it hit the ground. It’s stayed like that 3 wks then code enforcement made them do something w it and he and 6 others did another sorry job of installing(even worse) and wind rips it apart more, he has zip ties holding it lol but it’s tearing up more and the back frame ripped off (no self drilling screws). I told several UA-cam could be his best friend if he would look at it but guess he don’t 🤷♀️
How is it holding up?
Been great even the side wall that I showed that the seam was hardly together is still the same it was a year+ later
@@natesworld814 I’ve had mine up for about 2 months now and it’s still holding good!
@@TacticalNightBoy any updates?
@@DavidHernandez-ue4fz I took it down in November because I built a full shed and now it’s used for my boat storage on other property. Even after all this time and southern weather (tornados and hail) it has held up great. I ziptied all of the sides on bottom and cut holes in the top around the pipe to make the tarp more tight. It has held up great all this time. I’ll probably buy another one if this one messes up
Mine is still up and has a small hole starting on one of the polls but it hasn't grown in months other then that little rip still great
It's been a year for this setup, how's it holding up? you have snow?
It's been great even the weak spot in the side wall hasn't changed I did move it under some pine trees to aid in keeping it out of direct weather but it still gets hit by a good amount of wind and had maybe 6" of snow on it and it has changed
So how long did it take you. Might be longer for me. I have to level it out
I think it took me like 2 hours if I remember correctly it would go much faster with someone helping
I had one an the wind did an was a problem. So the next one I put bolts trow each joint. An now is so much stronger>>>
That is a great idea I my do that my self
Self drilling screws, about 5 dollars a pack work good. The hex head ones are easiest to install but be aware that the fabric of the canopy won't like the heads that well. The pipes slipped on will come out, even taping them doesn't help so screwing or bolting is the good option. That may well be why these fail on people because they don't do that.
I've watched very many of these set-up videos and laugh at everyone putting the lower supports on and have to take them off to put it through the cover. Yours is the fifth video that I've seen do that. Also do yourself a favor and put screws in all the pieces to hold them together.
🤷♂️ live and learn. I agree if I get the time I still might screw it together but if I get another 1 I most definitely will
Help me a lot thanks
Glad to hear that thanks
It good things you not in Oklahoma..tarndo season Cummings
That's exactly why I'm not in Oklahoma 🤣
Put pipe tap to bottom
Nobody on any of these videos discuss the holes in the roof poles and which way they go....the instructions do not even mention them
I don't believe any of my poles had holes in them 🤔 no wait the only ones I had that had holes were the ones on the sides to keep the legs together
@@natesworld814 I just took it back got a refund.......the end cap walls, that attach to the side and roof poles had too small of a hole. Basically the poles wouldn't slide into to the loop for the walls
This Harbour Frieght Tent is a flimsy piece of crap that they do not want to be responsible for. Can anyone tell how to make this weak tent strong enough to resist weak wind?