Refering to Proto 2000 & 1000 split axle gears, Athearn part # 60024 is a direct replacement for a six axle locomotive, and they don't break over the long term.
My question is this.....whole the hell had the idea at Life-Like of putting no straight track pieces in a train set? I got one of those P1K PRR erie-builts. It runs well now, but when I got it the thing would die 2 feet into running. Beautiful locomotive. I also got a NYC c-liner at the same time, and a PRR one. the NYC one didn't even have a headlight for some reason, so I had one custom installed. That was weird.
I own the DL 109 pair in Southern. Mine run great I also have the Model Power super detailed work crane. All my equipment is still DC with no sound because I am deaf disabled veteran.
I had both the Proto 1000 and 2000 locomotives. I thought the 1000s were made previous to the 2000s! It seemed logical at that time. I had no problems at all with the 1000s! The 2000s I almost threw out, until I saw a video explaining how to fix the problem with the axels. I did the changes and now they are running better. But you're right about Bachmann. Their newer locos are better running than before! I have 4 of them and I have not had any issues with any of them. Thanks for loading this video. It was very helpful. I did purchase 2 of the rs-2s,and they run well.
I remember back in the late 1980s Kay Bee Toys sold the nice running, N-scale Life-Like GP38-2s and all of their freight cars. They also sold Life-Like trainsets with the engines equipped with weathered wheels, and dual drive from a strong 5-pole motor. These were a bargain for modelers, who had not much spending money, and they could stock up on decent engines quickly. They weren't Katos, but they looked good, ran well and didn't cost much.
The FM C-Liners also came with add on details like the ALCO RS-11 and MLW (Alco) RS-10 and 18 The tooling for the C-Liners and the RS-11, 10 and 18 is owned by Canadian Hobbycraft (Life Likes former Canadian distributor) who were later known as True Line Trains. TLT appears to be out of business currently. However a train shop in Ontario along with a partner is interested in acquiring TLT's line of freight cars and possible some of the locomotive models. There may be an announcement later this year. One thing about the RS-10 and 18 and im guessing the RS-11 is the hood is slightly narrower and shorter than it should be, This was a mistake on Canadian Hobbycrafts side when they done up the drawings. Rapido has introduced a far better and more correct RS-18 and RS-11.
I have a few of the Proto 1K and 2K engines in various stages of repair or modification. You should have mentioned the NYC Transit subway cars that P1K did. 😡What a horror show. The Zinc alloy frames of the powered units will fracture with age. A real disaster waiting to happen. Walther corrected the problem with a new design but I have yet to get my hands on a set of their subway cars.
Like most life like Porto series products, in addition to being very easy to work on, they are very reliable except for the gear wheels sets that tend to crack. You can easily replace them with Athearn ready to roll wheels sets that can be bought almost any ware and will drop right in. The only other thing is the grease and oil that was used when these were assembled. This can case the locomotives form the proto line to show up seized or lack up. The fix is simple, pop off the worm gear covers and pull the worm gears out and let them soak in alcohol for at least 24 hours. Then, re-lube them with synthetic model oil and grease, like label 107 and the kadee grease. Thanks for watching!
@@alcobufff Thanks man. I wonder if I can fill a need by making replacement gears that have better plastic quality, but from the video, I heard it is better to just get spare sets from the other manufacturer. Either way, I wanted to see if I could make them as reliable as the Kato drivetrain. The reason why I asked is because I wanted an A-B-B set of them that I saw for a good price and all the locomotives have DCC and the lead unit has sound. Also, I have gotten a negative view point from my local club's president about them having poor re-sale value because of the parts not being manufactured anymore, and I heard that some engines have completely different parts than the others sometimes. This caused comfusion, from what I heard, that made it difficult to repair them and find the proper replacement parts. Perhaps I did not get the full story, or I do not know. Other than that, I am thankful that you exist with this wealth of information, because now I feel like I could open up to more obscure PRR stuff that is not "over-priced" brass models. Again, thank you very much, I would love to see more.
I'll never understand why anyone would bother with these crappy sound systems. They all sound like nothing more than the static coming from a cheap pocket transistor radio. Any investment in one of these things is a terrible waste of time, money, and effort.
Refering to Proto 2000 & 1000 split axle gears, Athearn part # 60024 is a direct replacement for a six axle locomotive, and they don't break over the long term.
My question is this.....whole the hell had the idea at Life-Like of putting no straight track pieces in a train set?
I got one of those P1K PRR erie-builts. It runs well now, but when I got it the thing would die 2 feet into running. Beautiful locomotive.
I also got a NYC c-liner at the same time, and a PRR one. the NYC one didn't even have a headlight for some reason, so I had one custom installed. That was weird.
I believe that walthers recently brought back powerlock track
I own the DL 109 pair in Southern. Mine run great I also have the Model Power super detailed work crane. All my equipment is still DC with no sound because I am deaf disabled veteran.
I enjoyed this video . I will go get an R D C ! Thanks !
I had both the Proto 1000 and 2000 locomotives. I thought the 1000s were made previous to the 2000s! It seemed logical at that time. I had no problems at all with the 1000s! The 2000s I almost threw out, until I saw a video explaining how to fix the problem with the axels. I did the changes and now they are running better. But you're right about Bachmann. Their newer locos are better running than before! I have 4 of them and I have not had any issues with any of them. Thanks for loading this video. It was very helpful. I did purchase 2 of the rs-2s,and they run well.
Hmm so when i got my first train set it was already walthers , it was the thundering rails set
I started to convulse when I saw the string of toys R us box cars on your layout.
I remember back in the late 1980s Kay Bee Toys sold the nice running, N-scale Life-Like GP38-2s and all of their freight cars. They also sold Life-Like trainsets with the engines equipped with weathered wheels, and dual drive from a strong 5-pole motor. These were a bargain for modelers, who had not much spending money, and they could stock up on decent engines quickly. They weren't Katos, but they looked good, ran well and didn't cost much.
Athearn took the Budd RDC out of production in the late 90's you were off by a decade.
The FM C-Liners also came with add on details like the ALCO RS-11 and MLW (Alco) RS-10 and 18 The tooling for the C-Liners and the RS-11, 10 and 18 is owned by Canadian Hobbycraft (Life Likes former Canadian distributor) who were later known as True Line Trains. TLT appears to be out of business currently. However a train shop in Ontario along with a partner is interested in acquiring TLT's line of freight cars and possible some of the locomotive models. There may be an announcement later this year. One thing about the RS-10 and 18 and im guessing the RS-11 is the hood is slightly narrower and shorter than it should be, This was a mistake on Canadian Hobbycrafts side when they done up the drawings. Rapido has introduced a far better and more correct RS-18 and RS-11.
I still love life like!! Got the diesel buster for 20 bucks on Craigslist runs like a champ!😭😭
Does anyone know where I can find that lifelike Conrail set!!
Ringworm motors ?
Excellent series. I learned a lot. Got yourself a new sub. Many thanks.
Thanks! Welcome to the channel!
I have a few of the Proto 1K and 2K engines in various stages of repair or modification. You should have mentioned the NYC Transit subway cars that P1K did. 😡What a horror show. The Zinc alloy frames of the powered units will fracture with age. A real disaster waiting to happen. Walther corrected the problem with a new design but I have yet to get my hands on a set of their subway cars.
Hi, how reliable are the Proto 1000 FM Erie-built locomotives? How many problems should I watch out for, and should I stay away from them?
Like most life like Porto series products, in addition to being very easy to work on, they are very reliable except for the gear wheels sets that tend to crack. You can easily replace them with Athearn ready to roll wheels sets that can be bought almost any ware and will drop right in. The only other thing is the grease and oil that was used when these were assembled. This can case the locomotives form the proto line to show up seized or lack up. The fix is simple, pop off the worm gear covers and pull the worm gears out and let them soak in alcohol for at least 24 hours. Then, re-lube them with synthetic model oil and grease, like label 107 and the kadee grease.
Thanks for watching!
@@alcobufff Thanks man. I wonder if I can fill a need by making replacement gears that have better plastic quality, but from the video, I heard it is better to just get spare sets from the other manufacturer. Either way, I wanted to see if I could make them as reliable as the Kato drivetrain.
The reason why I asked is because I wanted an A-B-B set of them that I saw for a good price and all the locomotives have DCC and the lead unit has sound. Also, I have gotten a negative view point from my local club's president about them having poor re-sale value because of the parts not being manufactured anymore, and I heard that some engines have completely different parts than the others sometimes. This caused comfusion, from what I heard, that made it difficult to repair them and find the proper replacement parts. Perhaps I did not get the full story, or I do not know.
Other than that, I am thankful that you exist with this wealth of information, because now I feel like I could open up to more obscure PRR stuff that is not "over-priced" brass models.
Again, thank you very much, I would love to see more.
Heeee-li-cal. Gears.
Good content. Sloooooow. Dowooowwwwn however.
I'll never understand why anyone would bother with these crappy sound systems. They all sound like nothing more than the static coming from a cheap pocket transistor radio. Any investment in one of these things is a terrible waste of time, money, and effort.