Great video. I have a couple of questions. You mentioned the cap is for the speaker? I thought it was a keep alive. Secondly, have you ever used the Streamlined Backshop Cab roof speaker? Does changing the speaker void the Digitrax warranty? Thanks
Thanks for watching. The cap will supply just enough power to keep the sound going. But maybe no more than a second. I have used the SBS4DCC cab roof speakers, they are great for tight installs. I have a couple videos showing them being installed. I'm not sure about voiding the warranty. You would need to as Digitrax.
Great videos! I’ve been doing the exact same thing with my Proto 2000 SD45 and GP7. I have one question, what did you use to cut the metal? I had to take out the metal weight in my SD45 bc there wasn’t any room. The GP7 is even tighter. I tried the same thing except I don’t know what to do with that wire that connects to the metal frame. Engine won’t turn on. So I put everything back and try your method but I don’t know what to use to cut the metal. Thanks in advance.
Love the videos - keep up the good work. But I need to troubleshoot here. I know this may be difficult but maybe you can suggest a solution. When I go to run in DCC mode I get the sound but no movement. Put the DC chip back on and moves fine. Opened up my next Proto GP9 project (right out of the box) and plug the harness in and get movement and sound with the same decoder as mentioned before. I have broken this thing down several times and I have for the life of me cannot figure this one out. Thanks for response in advance.
@@SoloContracting I did turn the plug around with no luck. I also have a second SDXH166 decoder I tried plugging in with the same result. All sounds and lights no movement. I was thinking that I may have caused some damage to the connector board that the harness plugs into but not sure as it has movement when using as DC. I am really stumped. I did take it apart to mill down the frame and pretty sure I have double checked all the connections. I will give a once over again.
I have this exact train but got it off of eBay and I need the exploded view of it do you know where I could find it online, I want to add a dcc chip to it and check the wheel gears cause it is quite old
Is that the original board inside? Because my Proto 2000 gp9 does not have that same board just asking and wanting to know what board it is, have a good time tb.
The best video I have ever seen about theese problems! From Germany
Thanks for watching.
Is there a smaller speaker you can use to avoid cutting the frame? Great video! Thanks!
www.scalesoundsystems.com/product-page/life-like-proto-2000-sd7-9
@@SoloContracting Thanks!
Great video. What LED lights did you use?
You mentioned adding a capacitor
What capacitor did you use and how was it used?
Thanks again!
The leds are 3mm bulbs that can be purchased from ebay. The capacitor comes with the decoder from Digitrax.
Great video. I have a couple of questions. You mentioned the cap is for the speaker? I thought it was a keep alive. Secondly, have you ever used the Streamlined Backshop Cab roof speaker? Does changing the speaker void the Digitrax warranty? Thanks
Thanks for watching. The cap will supply just enough power to keep the sound going. But maybe no more than a second. I have used the SBS4DCC cab roof speakers, they are great for tight installs. I have a couple videos showing them being installed. I'm not sure about voiding the warranty. You would need to as Digitrax.
fairly new to dcc and have a question. do all digitrax decoders have to be programed for sound or do they offer preprogramed units?
Not all the Digitrax decoders need programming. You can get preprogrammed ones.
Great video. What is the make and model of the speaker you used?
Thanks again
That speaker comes standard with the decoder. You can also buy them separately, this is the Digitrax # sp26158bc.
Great videos! I’ve been doing the exact same thing with my Proto 2000 SD45 and GP7. I have one question, what did you use to cut the metal? I had to take out the metal weight in my SD45 bc there wasn’t any room. The GP7 is even tighter. I tried the same thing except I don’t know what to do with that wire that connects to the metal frame. Engine won’t turn on. So I put everything back and try your method but I don’t know what to use to cut the metal. Thanks in advance.
To cut that out I use a die grinder and hack saw.
Do you need to install led lights or can you use the original lights? Thanks again!
Yes, you can use the original lights.
@@SoloContracting Thanks!
Love the videos - keep up the good work. But I need to troubleshoot here. I know this may be difficult but maybe you can suggest a solution. When I go to run in DCC mode I get the sound but no movement. Put the DC chip back on and moves fine. Opened up my next Proto GP9 project (right out of the box) and plug the harness in and get movement and sound with the same decoder as mentioned before. I have broken this thing down several times and I have for the life of me cannot figure this one out. Thanks for response in advance.
Have you tried turning the decoder plug around? Making sure the #1 pin is in the #1 slot. Probably a long shot.
@@SoloContracting I did turn the plug around with no luck. I also have a second SDXH166 decoder I tried plugging in with the same result. All sounds and lights no movement. I was thinking that I may have caused some damage to the connector board that the harness plugs into but not sure as it has movement when using as DC. I am really stumped. I did take it apart to mill down the frame and pretty sure I have double checked all the connections. I will give a once over again.
Do you have a meter to check things with?
@@SoloContracting I do have a meter. Checking soon.
I have this exact train but got it off of eBay and I need the exploded view of it do you know where I could find it online, I want to add a dcc chip to it and check the wheel gears cause it is quite old
Try this link.. It has the locomotive you're looking for. hoseeker.net/lifelike.htm
Is that the original board inside? Because my Proto 2000 gp9 does not have that same board just asking and wanting to know what board it is, have a good time tb.
Yes. It is the original board.
Thank you
And do you know of any boards that can be a substitute for that board?
What did you use to mill the weight? Will a dremel do the job?
I use a die grinder, a hacksaw, Dremel and files to mill frames.
Does this decoder have the 567 prime mover on it
Yes.