Hi Thank You for taking the time to teach technique, as a hobbyist and the location I live its not easy to ask or get on a weekend course . Thank you for risking not the"best" outcome to show how its done with a "rubber" boring bar so that viewers who are still learning my see how its done.
I take threading slow too! Nice job Greg. I also loved the rubber boring bar :) Most everything for this old man is slow and steady. I have one large 'chunk' with a dummy female thread for my spindle - methinks I must do something more with it!
Greg, a useful technique for internal threading a to a shoulder is to put the lathe tool the right way up on the backside of the bore, put the lathe in reverse and cut from the inside out. That way you don't have to worry about running into the shoulder at the end of the cut run. Bought back memories of when I made my self a collet chuck years ago!
Greg, Sounds like you still have a ways to go: cutting a taper, metric threading (change gear fun!), etc. So far, the build is great! Just think of all the $$$ you are saving over buy a collet holder! Thanks for sharing your work. If you don't put up another video between now and Christmas, have the happiest of Holidays! Have a good one! Dave
Thanks Dave! The build is done just editing the videos is taking some time especially synching the picture in picture. I'll be back after the holidays.
For future reference, the register (especially on a collet holder) should have no radial play as it should be a tight "sliding" fit. In the good old days, Myford lathe fittings for instance would came undersize from the factory and you were meant to scrape them out to fit your individual spindle, so you had an exact fit.
Knocking the chuck loose while locking it with the back gear, not best practice, is it? Maybe you could do a project video for a tool to securely grip the spindle to allow you to remove a chuck without putting strain on the back gear. Good video
Suggestion - drill a hole in one side, near the spindle, which you can insert a bar or wrench into to aid unscrewing it from the spindle. You're already having problems getting enough grip to remove it, and that's not a smooth surface.
Cutting that first chamfer just use a single point boring bar and move both slides together and you can do a chamfer. If you never practice this you never learn to do it, but once you master it, its a easy peasy,
It would be nice to be able to those short, internal threads starting from the thread relief and move out to avoid any chance of crashing it, but to do that the spindle would have to be run in reverse (if I'm remembering it correctly)... not a good thing to try with a threaded spindle. The ways on my Mueller have several battle scars that I suspect are the results of such an attempt, because someone made a place for a locking grub screw in the spindle thread. I don't have the chuck that was made for, and I can't think of any way to match another one to it. I've got an idea for an alternative anchor, just got to make a prototype and find out if it's an idea worth sharing...
+diggerop Yeah I know it's an outside chance of spinning the chuck off, but I know I'm that one guy that would happen to. If it wasn't for bad luck I'd have no luck.
Hey Halligan I'm making a ER32 chuck soon..Double boost from the UK made one a long time ago.. Had to start again when he cut the collet taper end because he did not preloaded it first...I'm going to have to go back and have a look at his video as well and see what the issue was..Are you going to be preloading the collet before blueing it to test for fit..Think i will head over to double boost channel and take a peak at what happened to him..Sorry just thought it was worth a mention.
+Halligan142 Cheers mate just wanted to give you the heads up that it needed to preloaded looking good will re watch the whole series a few times before i do mine..Keep up the good work pal.
Thanks a bunch for the great video - really learnt a lot. Of special interest to me was to 8:50 on when you were boring out the start of the threads for the register. The amount of deflection on the boring bar was really surprising!! What I learned here would be to use a progressively larger boring bars for more regidity. Also (this is observation not criticism) I noticed the threads appeared to be quite coarsely machined which I would think would have been chatter. looking at the machined surfaces makes me think this is mild steel - whats your take since you machined it> Thanks again - much appreciated.
Yeah you'd want the largest boring bar you can fit for the bore. I used my little one just for a good camera view. The chatter is partially my fault. I got a little while threading. Also you'll see that when turning really slow which I did just because of the coarse thread to the shoulder. If I sped the lathe up it would disappear
I absolutely do not understand why the register was quickly cut loosely single shot with calipers. Why was not the item screwed in and brought in till it shut off tight dead nuts on the register?--in other words the threads are location which is not good--and the register seems to serve zero purpose--and is actually clearance what am i missing?
I run out of when you rechecked the run out after threading it on to the nose and it was at five thousands that is totally expected because threads aren't really that precision. Everything past that point will be perfect obviously you know that
Really liked the picture in picture of the controls while you were threading. Nice work.
Thanks!
Very nice machining, clear video also, loved the bending toolbar, looking forward for part 3. Thankx!
Hi Thank You for taking the time to teach technique, as a hobbyist and the location I live its not easy to ask or get on a weekend course . Thank you for risking not the"best" outcome to show how its done with a "rubber" boring bar so that viewers who are still learning my see how its done.
+Dawid Kellerman Thanks!
I take threading slow too! Nice job Greg. I also loved the rubber boring bar :)
Most everything for this old man is slow and steady. I have one large 'chunk' with a dummy female thread for my spindle - methinks I must do something more with it!
Nice bit of internal threading mate....10/10.
Regards, Rich, UK.
+rich kellow
Thanks!
Greg, a useful technique for internal threading a to a shoulder is to put the lathe tool the right way up on the backside of the bore, put the lathe in reverse and cut from the inside out. That way you don't have to worry about running into the shoulder at the end of the cut run. Bought back memories of when I made my self a collet chuck years ago!
Yup I'm just a chicken with the threaded Chuck. My luck that sucker would spin right off.
That looks like it is coming along nicely!!! Chris
Greg, it is coming along nicely!
Getting nearer to the finished product. Thanks for the video.
From my family to yours a Merry Christmas and a very Happy New Year.
wow i have a south bend and i enjoyed this thoroughly. brilliant! now i'm going to have to watch all your other videos lol
Very nice work so far sir, a pleasure to my eyes!
looking forward to the next video. cheers for sharing.
nice trick with the adjustable wrench taking off the chuck .
So far so good. Standing by.
Greg,
Sounds like you still have a ways to go: cutting a taper, metric threading (change gear fun!), etc. So far, the build is great! Just think of all the $$$ you are saving over buy a collet holder! Thanks for sharing your work. If you don't put up another video between now and Christmas, have the happiest of Holidays!
Have a good one!
Dave
Thanks Dave! The build is done just editing the videos is taking some time especially synching the picture in picture. I'll be back after the holidays.
protect your ways with a piece of plywood. I jumped when you dropped hunk of steel.
9:00 look at that boring bar deflect! Impressive.
You can cut your threads going away from the chuck with the lath in reverse. Makes it easier and you don't have to hurry.
For future reference, the register (especially on a collet holder) should have no radial play as it should be a tight "sliding" fit. In the good old days, Myford lathe fittings for instance would came undersize from the factory and you were meant to scrape them out to fit your individual spindle, so you had an exact fit.
Yup this is matched to mine. The only place you want a little play is on the threads to that the register aligns it along with that outside face.
Muito bom...tenho um torno sanche blanes...poderia me dizer, qual é o passo de rosca do eixo árvore...ótimo trabalho...
Knocking the chuck loose while locking it with the back gear, not best practice, is it? Maybe you could do a project video for a tool to securely grip the spindle to allow you to remove a chuck without putting strain on the back gear. Good video
Suggestion - drill a hole in one side, near the spindle, which you can insert a bar or wrench into to aid unscrewing it from the spindle. You're already having problems getting enough grip to remove it, and that's not a smooth surface.
That's the last step I did. It's in a future videos I haven't edited yet :-)
Cutting that first chamfer just use a single point boring bar and move both slides together and you can do a chamfer. If you never practice this you never learn to do it, but once you master it, its a easy peasy,
Very Cool!
Brent
It would be nice to be able to those short, internal threads starting from the thread relief and move out to avoid any chance of crashing it, but to do that the spindle would have to be run in reverse (if I'm remembering it correctly)... not a good thing to try with a threaded spindle. The ways on my Mueller have several battle scars that I suspect are the results of such an attempt, because someone made a place for a locking grub screw in the spindle thread. I don't have the chuck that was made for, and I can't think of any way to match another one to it.
I've got an idea for an alternative anchor, just got to make a prototype and find out if it's an idea worth sharing...
+diggerop
Yeah I know it's an outside chance of spinning the chuck off, but I know I'm that one guy that would happen to. If it wasn't for bad luck I'd have no luck.
Hey Halligan I'm making a ER32 chuck soon..Double boost from the UK made one a long time ago..
Had to start again when he cut the collet taper end because he did not preloaded it first...I'm going to have
to go back and have a look at his video as well and see what the issue was..Are you going to be
preloading the collet before blueing it to test for fit..Think i will head over to double boost channel
and take a peak at what happened to him..Sorry just thought it was worth a mention.
In the next you'll see the taper cut. I left the collet stick out by about 1/16-1/8 and then blued to fit.
+Halligan142 Cheers mate just wanted to give you the heads up that it needed to
preloaded looking good will re watch the whole series a few times before i do
mine..Keep up the good work pal.
Nice job on the series, My SB could use one of these.
Thanks a bunch for the great video - really learnt a lot.
Of special interest to me was to 8:50 on when you were boring out the start of the
threads for the register. The amount of deflection on the boring bar was really surprising!!
What I learned here would be to use a progressively larger boring bars for more regidity.
Also (this is observation not criticism) I noticed the threads appeared to be quite coarsely
machined which I would think would have been chatter. looking at the machined surfaces makes me think this is mild steel - whats your take since you machined it>
Thanks again - much appreciated.
Yeah you'd want the largest boring bar you can fit for the bore. I used my little one just for a good camera view. The chatter is partially my fault. I got a little while threading. Also you'll see that when turning really slow which I did just because of the coarse thread to the shoulder. If I sped the lathe up it would disappear
Why did you thread the most unsafe direction, When you could have cut the thread from inside out with no scary moments to remove the cutter
Threaded Chuck. I'd have to run the lathe backwards and if the cutter caught or dug in for any reason there's a good chance it'd spin the chuck off.
Threading from inside the hole outwards is less on the nerves trying to disengage inside the hole
I have never seen a boring bar dance before.
I absolutely do not understand why the register was quickly cut loosely single shot with calipers. Why was not the item screwed in and brought in till it shut off tight dead nuts on the register?--in other words the threads are location which is not good--and the register seems to serve zero purpose--and is actually clearance what am i missing?
to me the purpose of the thread is to pull up against the register and mating face
Still watching ---- great work ---- I think I'll make me one on a backing plate. Thanks
Part 2 right? Typo in the title above.
+bkoholliston
Oops cut and paste error. Thanks for the heads up
I run out of when you rechecked the run out after threading it on to the nose and it was at five thousands that is totally expected because threads aren't really that precision. Everything past that point will be perfect obviously you know that
You must either be very strong, or your chuck is really small. I need both hands to lift my 8" 4 jaw chuck, it weights a good 30 pounds.
song?
It's called slide hip hop and is available from Audiomicro.com
Thank you.